Chapter 3 Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 5
Revised Jun 9 2021
111 1792 April
Draw near Otahytey – The Doctor humanely employed – Pass Maiteea – Intercourse with the natives – Arrive at Otahytey – The Matilda Whaler – Jenny of Bristol – War at Otahytey – Establish a post near Point Venus – Visit Oparrey – Young Otoo – Sailing Canoes – Sharks – Poenow and Tupira – Mother and daughter – Orepaia's love of spirits – Tatowing – A Theft – Botanists – Pomaureys first visit – Whyhereddy and Orepaia – Abundance of flies – A white Native – Yavaroot – Chiefs from Moreea – Heeva dance – Make a party up Matavai river – Offering to the Eotooa – Shaddock Trees – Nelson, the Botanist with Captain Bligh in the Bounty – Cascade called Peeir – Delightful spot – Fishing – Mahu visits the ship, the Tayo of Guthrie – The Botanists collecting plants rapidly – Edeea intoxicated – &c &c
Thetis off Bermuda Feby. 1797
7th. As we approached O'tahȳtey, (which, having nothing to guide me but the Ear, I take the liberty of being so hypercritical as to spell as above) it was among our amusements to prepare and assort the various adventures which we brought out to trade with its inhabitants, nor without anticipating at the sight of every tenpenny nail* a favour from some Chief or Princess.
[Marginal note:]
* a highly valued friend of your father—Lord N— paid me a visit on board
Providence before our leaving England, when he observed on being introduced to our First Lieutenant, that
Mr. B—d would have to give two Nails to the fair of Otahytey
The Charity of these good people had been so warmly described by the interesting pen of Doctor Hawkesworth that, not a doubt arose, but all our wishes would be gratified. Can it then be a wonder that, after a long voyage from the wilds of Van Diemans Land, we chid the tardy hours until a more genial spot presented itself. Latitude observed 19°..02′ South Longde. by Act. 213°..36′ East
112 1792 April From Van Diemans Land
7th. In the afternoon, with but little distinction, the whole body corporate, passed through the hands of our worthy associate Ned Harwood, and never did the Doctor take a pinch—of snuff, with more solemnity, or handle a subject with a less risible countenance.
It was ever his nature to be gentle, and memory tells me there were moments, and but moments, when I paid him in a diffirent coin,. Yet never, but that it recoiled on me with double force.
It was his duty now, to examine—the affairs of men—with a scrutinizing eye; In his report, to "nothing extenuate or set down aught in malice." The report was favorable, and such as to avoid the crew of the Providence of a fresh importation of misery to this still cheerful Island. If two subjects could not strictly "pass muster," we will not doubt, from their situation in the ship that a sense of benevolence restrained them from error.
8th. After divine Service Captain Bligh read some regulations to the officers and ships company for encouraging an amicable intercourse with the various natives with whom we might have intercourse during the voyage. He particularly enjoined us on no account to promulgate the unfortunate death of Captain Cook.
At Noon the Latitude was observed in 17°..55 South Longitude by Account 211°..16 East, when the centre of the Island Maiteea (which had been seen some hours) bore W½Squall about 7 leagues distant. Thermometer 80¾. By four in the afternoon, while passing the north side at about the distance of a mile three canoes were observed paddling with great exertion to overtake us; the vessels were in consequence
113 1791 April towards Otahytey – Maiteea
brought to the wind. With the hearty confidence of an unoffending people they soon jumped on board, and bartered some bread fruit and Cocoa nuts for nails and other articles. One among our visitors, who called himself an Eree or chief, and who, from having taken copiously of an intoxicating beverage called Yava was quite riotous, entertained us in no small degree. He was dressed in a European shirt of which he was not a little vain, and gave us to understand it was procured from a ship (Pahee) that had recently visited the island. We afterwards were informed that it was from the Matilda Whaler he had got his finery.
The vessels drifted fast from the land, which about Sun set occasioned the departure of our visitors who did not wait the canoes coming along side, but jumping over board with their English goods in one hand, with the other they swam to them. This little Island, not above a League in circuit, is one of the most beautiful spots that can be conceived, being in most parts well clothed with a variety of trees; The bread fruit, plantain, and cocoa nut, being among the number. The very summit is nearly destitute of verdure for a small space where there is a chasm apparently by some convulsion of nature; probably it is the seat of a volcano. There were several courses from this part of the Island to the sea, similar to what are to be seen in most mountainous countries from the effects of heavy rain.
The habitations of the natives, like those of Otahytey are near the sea.
The vessels kept under easy sail throughout the night, in the course of which there was heavy rain.
114 1792 April Otahytey
9th. At day light we were gratified with a sight of the long wished for Island, but at too remote a distance to distinguish, even with our glasses, more than its blur mountains. When about eight miles from Point Venus, the most northern part of the Island, our expectations were more than realised in the many delightful views opening in succession as the vessels passed a short league from the shore. The heavy showers of the preceding night, had given additional verdure to the lower grounds, while they served to form numberless white cataracts, serpentining amid the foliage on the distant mountains. The beach was tumultuously crouded with natives from their huts, scattered under the umbrage of the luxuriant bread fruit or towering cocoa nut, whose leavy plumes waved towards the opposite horizon, on every projecting point of the Isle, from the ceaseless pressure of the eastern breeze. Numberless canoes were in motion within an angry reef that seemed to girt the Island, yielding security to these pigmy vessels, and on the reef itself, where in a few spots the sea did not force a passage, the natives of both sexes were industriously employed, in procuring shell and other fish; yet not without indulging a respite from their daily avocation in viewing the Providence and Assistant as they passed.
[Marginal note:]
There are, (I believe) doubts who discovered the Island of Otahytey, but Quiros in 1606, seems to have
the fairest claim to it, if Sagitaria and Otahytey be the same Island. In the Narrative of that
Voyage, the Editor says "They had sight of an Island (February 9th 1606) to the North East.
By Noon we were safely anchored in Matavai bay, after a passage from Spithead of thirty six weeks. The ship was moored in nine fathom water about half a mile from the beach our Consort not far distant. The Bearings when moored.
115 1792 April Otahytey
Our surprise was great when entering the bay, at seeing a whale boat pulling towards the ship. On the crew coming on board we were informed that she was one of four boats which had left the ship Matilda of London, Captn. Weatherhead, a Southern whaler, wrecked a short time before on a low Key in the Latitude of 22° South Longitude 221°..30′ Et. On finding it impossible to save the ship, the crew were divided in the boats and steered for Otahytey, which they all reached the ninth day, a distance of nearly seven hundred miles, though one parted company on the first night. The second mate with two seamen, left Otahytey a few days before our arrival with a quadrant and compass under the desperate hope of reaching Port Jackson in New South Wales [blank] distant, intending to stop for supplies at the Friendly Islands and New Caledonia. To this hour, I have never been able to learn how this ill-judged attempt terminated. With every comfort, it might be said, every luxury within their reach, to trust themselves to the mercy of the waves and power of indians, in an open boat through a tract of ocean but imperfectly known, could only argue that hardihood and indiffirence of danger inseperable from british seamen. Yet, is it impossible not to warmly admire the spirit and enterprise of such men.
On the day these daring men took (we have to fear) a last farewell of their shipmates, the Jenny, a small vessel belonging to Mr Teast of Bristol left the Island for the North West coast of America on the Fur trade taking Captain Weatherhead as a passenger.
[Marginal note continues:]
"They passed it leaving it to windward being in Latitude 18°..40′ South. They passed the day
with some rain, till the next, Feby. 10th, when from the Topmast head to the no small satisfaction of
every one, a sailor cried out Land &c &c and in several places columns of smoke arising, which
was a clear sign of inhabitants, whence they concluded that all their sufferings were
116 1792 April Otahytey
The remainder of the crew, perhaps acted wisely in remaining at Otahytey.
The crew of the whaler reported that the adjoining districts of Matavai and Opparrey, in the neighbourhood of the ship, were in a state of hostility. When the boats of the Matilda landed, the greater part of what they contained, particularly four muskets, the ships papers, and a small sum of money, got into the Matavaians possession. The people of Oparrey laid claim to these articles, intending, as they said to restore them to the first English vessel that arrived, but the Matavaians not thinking proper to comply with the demand, war was declared against them. No hostile operations took place while the Jenny remained at the Island. Some of the Matildas crew joined the Matavaians, to which may be attributed in a great measure, the cause of the quarrel, as doubtless, a
[Marginal note continues:]
"at an end &c &c. They fetched abreast of it ordering the Labra to go to look for a port, while
the Capitana and Almirante kept turning to windward in sight of it." Quiros, it appears, passed the night
of the 10th in the offing, but when morning came, they found
117 1792 April Otahytey
positive demand from the Royal party of Oparrey in conjunction with the whole of the crew, would have been complied with. Their antagonists, headed by Poenow and Tupira considered the profession of returning the money and arms to the first ship, as an artful scheme to get them in their own possession.
Before the vessels were scarcely an anchor canoes laden with hogs and various fruits were about us in vast numbers, the natives bartering these articles for iron and other wares. Hatchets were in the greatest demand.
Several Chiefs came on board, and in the afternoon we were honoured with a visit from Edeea the Queen, from whom it was understood that Pomaurey the King Regent was at Moreea an Island in sight to the westward. Edeea, as well as all the visitors expressed unfeigned joy and satisfaction at meeting their old friend Captain Bligh (Brihe) and agreeably to the custom of the Island brought a present of cloth, hogs, and fruit, the former being wrapped round him by her Majesty. The beauty of her countenance, and the elegance of her figure had felt the ravages of time, but there was in her deportment a complacency and good humour sensibly interesting.
As the sun declined, the Canoes returned on shore, leaving by far the most desirable part of their freight among our crew, which after the trying self denial of a long voyage, shut out from the dearest solace life affords, could not but be truly acceptable. Edeea was among the number, attended by her favorite Towtow (servant) Mideedee the poor fellow who afterwards unfortunately embarked in the Providence, in search of distant wonders.
[Marginal note continues:]
themselves about eight leagues down the coast: this gave a great disquiet to all as it was impossible
to return back and see the Indians, but discovering the land abreast to be the same they had left
it was great satisfaction to every one as they knew it was inhabited" The night of the 11th, as the preceding
one, was passed in the offing—and next day
118 1792 April Otahytey
The natives in the course of the day had been dexterous enough to make my pocket lighter by the handkerchief.
With our other visitors came an incredible number of flies.
10th. The natives in their canoes were about us by early dawn and the stock of hogs and fruit encreased rapidly. For a Toey (a flat piece of iron made for the purpose in England, and which the natives fasten to a handle and use as an adze) a moderate sized hog was procured.
Many Chiefs (Erees) visited the ship, and we all began to establish our individual friends. Edeea examined all the cabins, seemingly quite "at home" and well acquainted with a ship. I exhibited my Stock in Trade, and every thing I conceived would gratify her, when on presenting her with a few ornaments she offered to become my Tayo, or friend, which distinguished honour I most readily accepted. As the dinner hour arrived, she sat down at Table with us, used her knife and fork not awkwardly, and drank many bumpers of Teneriffe with great good will. In the evening she presented me with a large hog and two pieces of the Island cloth, when we underwent the ceremony of Otahytean Friendship. The smaller piece, which was of a thick texture about a yard wide and three in length, in the center of which there was a hole, I was instructed to put my head through, the ends falling before and behind leaving the arms at freedom. This done, the other piece, above a dozen yards in length, was wrapped round my waist until I became so swaddled as to be nearly immoveable. We then kissed, joined noses, and exchanged names. Her Majesty in return received a present from my
[Marginal note continues:]
The 12th they ran along shore to the North West observing the sun in it in 17°..40′ South.
Presently leaving it, they sailed &c &c. No mention is made of the Longitude of Sagitaria; but the
Latitude accords tolerably with Otahytey; if Quiros passed its South side,
119 1792 April Otahytey
Store of every thing she desired, seemingly quite rejoiced with the Treaty. Most of the Mess, soon established their Tayos, going through nearly a similar ceremony.
The royal party this day applied to Captain Bligh for his assistance against Poenow and Tupira, who in consequence sent Mr. Norris Surgeon of the Matilda, the friend of one of these Chiefs, to demand the English property. Mr. Norris passed through the hostile parties without molestation, the whole amounting to about thirteen hundred. They had been engaged with their slings, which they use with great dexterity, but neither side had lost any men. A few muskets were among them.
Poenow and Tupira gave assurance to the Surgeon that the articles should be delivered up in a day or two with which report he returned on board.
11th. Canoes were along side to trade as on the preceding day, bringing hogs and fruit in abundance. Most of the seamen had now established their Tayos, and the Cook this day underwent the same ceremony that his Captain had done before, but with a native in a more subordinate situation. In the afternoon the Oparreans, from which district we had only been visited, were hurried on shore by their chiefs to battle. A little before sun set they were seen returning in great numbers armed with spears and slings; a few among them wore the Tawmey, or was war mat to protect the breast. The Matavaians had one man killed by a musket, and several wounded with stones.
Old Hammaneminkay, a Priest, the
[Marginal note continues:]
as does the Latitude of Maiteea the Island he must have seen on the 9th to the North East
when in the Latitude of 18°..40′ South. Maiteea is in about 17°..55′ South, and can
be seen at a great distance. If we invert the North East bearings and allow for the probable inaccuracy of
instruments two Centuries ago, the situation of Quiros from Maiteea
120 1792 April Otahytey
Tayo of Pearce, now came on board in a state of great agitation expressing much dissatisfaction that the Royal party was not assisted by King Georges people, who they considered as their Allies, urging that hostilities were undertaken solely on his account. The old man raged violently, but was pacified in some measure by Captain Bligh assuring him that the Matavaians should not pass the heads of Tarra (one tree hill) a cliff of some extent dividing the two districts.
12th. A native this day was discovered stealing some articles of dress from the Assistant. Being the first offense he was pardoned, yet on the same evening he was detected hanging to her cable waiting the darkness of the night to make a second attempt at theft. On being discovered he swam for the shore and his dexterity was such in diving that had not Mideedee, who was in our boat pursuing him, jumped overboard, he would have effected his escape. On being brought to the ship he was put in irons.
The Queen did not sleep on board having taken leave of us to bring Pomaurey the King Regent, from Moreea. In the evening we were informed that the Matavaians had retreated to the mountains.
14th. Captain Bligh this morning in company with Orepaia, next brother to Pomaurey, went on shore to fix on a spot for an officers party. This he did, not far from Point Venus, at the back of which the Matavai river emptied itself into the sea. Orepaia undertook to clear the ground and erect a large shed for the plants, as well as two small houses for the officers and men on duty at the post. The Surgeon of the Matilda again went to demand the Arms.
Soon after breakfast I was sent by Captain Bligh in the cutter to Oparrey, to bring up the Mate of the Matilda, who was living in that district. I carried
[Marginal note continues:]
on the 9th, (that is South West from it) accords pretty well with the discovery of Otahytey on the succeeding
day. Speaking of a Chief who came on board at Sagitaria, the narrative says "The Chief then went on board
his Paragua and setting sail navigated towards a small Islet." Query? What Islet could this be?
Was it one of the small
121 1792 April Otahytey
with me a present from the Captain to the young King Otoo, the son of Pomaurey, who had taken the late name of his father. Soon after reaching Oparrey, the youth made his appearance carried on one of his Towtows shoulders, they style in which he ever travelled. He seemed about twelve years of age, his countenance free and open, yet with much curiosity painted in it. The ornaments of dress did not much incommode the young Monarch, having nothing but a wrapper of fine white cloth round his loins. On signifying that these were presents from Captain Bligh I was instructed to give them to his attendants, and afterwards learnt that, the custom is strictly observed, it being considered derogatory to his dignity to soil his fingers with any thing until reaching his own house. During the whole of this interview, Otoo examined with searching looks our diffirent dresses, and was particularly pleased with the sleeve buttons of the petty officer. I had scarcely any thing about me to offer him but a knife (Tepey) which was received by one of his suite while the man on whose shoulders the King rested withdrew several paces. On returning he begged my acceptance of a hog (Boa) but as the mate had now joined which was the chief object of my mission, and being anxious to lose no time in reaching the ship, I took leave, promising to return to Oparrey ere long. There was a vast crowd about the boat who waited no solicitation to assist in launching her from the shore.
A number of sailing Canoes arrived in the afternoon at Oparrey from Moreea. These canoes carry a very lofty narrow sail of matting, and in smooth water, are able to beat to windward, yet the natives never attempt
[Marginal note concludes:]
Keys on the South side of Otahytey? Or was it Moreea which is a few leagues in a Western direction
from Otahytey?
122 1792 April Otahytey
to lose sight of the Island but with a fair wind, so that from Orieteea, Huhahayney, and the other Society Islands, a voyage to Otahytey is never undertaken with the usual trade wind, which is also as adverse to a canoe reaching Maiteea fro, Otahytey. Accidents frequently happen, and Canoes have been driven to sea nor more heard of. Orepaia stated that a short time previously to the arrival of the Providence, his Canoe overturned coming from Tetheroa a low Island in sight to the northward, and after remaining several hours in the water with his wife and Towtows, they were saved by another canoe. Like the common canoes, they are fitted with an outrigger on one side, the double ones indeed, do not require this security being fastened to each other from the Gunwhales, about their own breadth asunder. The natives have a singular, yet very simple way of clearing them of water when leaky or from other causes. It is common to see them leap overboard, and by the motion of quickly moving the Canoe backwards and forwards, force the water over at each end. It surprised us on these occasions to observe the little apprehension entertained of sharks. Yet are the natives sensible it is a fish of prey. It had the desirable effect of giving the crew such confidence that they major part bathed along side every evening, which in many tropical countries would have filled them with fear. Only one shark was taken along side during our stay, but from the vast number of their teeth used by the natives in their diffirent ornaments, it would seem that they are not a scarce fish. The shark is called Mow; another kind named by seamen shovelnosed Shark, Mow Tamowtow, the latter part signifying the bonnet worn by the women. These, as well as every kind
123 1792 April Otahytey
of fish are eaten in a raw state. It was impossible not to feel disgust, however gratifying the sight of beauty, in beholding a lovely girl mutilating with the most delicately formed fingers, the inside of a large Bonetta, while feasting on it with the keenest satisfaction. When not eaten this way, after being wrapped in a plantain leaf, it is baked in an oven formed underground with heated stones in the same way as the hogs are cooked. And here, it may be in truth observed that the European method of baking is very inferior to it. Sometimes fish are dried in the sun for keeping, but we thought them very insipid.
By the return of Mr. Norris it was learnt that Poenow had quitted the Matavaian district for Whappiano a few miles to the east of it, whose inhabitants had given him protection. He received Mr. Norris with real kindness, but refused in the most determined manner, parting with the arms, at the same time promising solemnly that the money should be speedily returned, urging as an excuse for not sending it before that it had been conveyed to a distant part of the Island. If his enemies, he said, would deliver to Captain Bligh all the arms in their possession, he would readily do the same, without which, nothing should induce him to leave himself in a defenceless state, as in such an event after the departure of the ships his district would become a prey to the Oparreans, which he had no dread of while he had no firearms to oppose. In case of an attack from the English, it was his intention to fall back to a narrow pass in the mountains where we should never take him alive. Tupira, the colleague of this enterprising chief, had received a wound in the late battle
124 1792 April Otahytey
and was importunate with the surgeon to bring him a speedy cure. The whole of their ammunition did not exceed forty balled cartridges.
In the evening a scene presented itself the most repugnant possible to human nature—a father and mother bargaining for the untasted charms of their child, and it was difficult to discover, which expressed the greatest delight, the parents or their daughter at her being engaged to yield her virgin treasure for a few foreign ornaments, for such were considered a couple of shirts, and three or four strings of beads. Mite t' Parawhay (good shirt) was often heard from the lips of these damsels when particularly interested in pleasing their english visitors. The teenless fair one, if the expression may be used to a lovely face, partaking more of the olive, than either the Lily or Carnation received the tempting bait, which the mother took from her with eager joy, leaving her on board "nothing loth" without that remorse—it is yet to be hoped—which would attend the most depraved european in a transaction of such a nature.
This was not the only instance of the kind that had occurred since our arrival and it is an indisputable truth that the Otahytean considers it as but a mark of confidence and attention, the offer of a moiety of his wife and the entire of his sister or daughter to him, with whom he has entered on the terms of Tayoship. Of the turpitude of such an action among ourselves there can be but one opinion. Of its effects on these less rigid people there is not reason to believe them inimical to order or the most cordial harmony. Never does it take place but with the most hearty and unreserved concurrence of all parties. You may call it indiffirence
125 1792 April Otahytey
if you please, and doubtless to the jealous monopolizing european it cannot but appear so—For your friend "He'd rather be a toad and live upon the vapour of a dungeon that keep a corner in the thing he loves for others uses"
The pliant Otahytean argues differently. Yet even there, where the fond swain seldom breathes his warm wishes unheeded, the chilling repulsive denial is sometimes heard—Happily for them, such instances are rare.
the instructed daughters of chastity in our colder regions, no doubt, in their own strength look with pity and contempt on the infirmity of these poor Islanders. True, from their infancy they are taught that this alone will pave their way to heaven. This jewel inviolate, every discordant passion may riot without impeachment or control; The children of these Southern Isles know no such doctrine, nor are they the less happy for it. If frail, yet do they largely teem with charity and benevolence. Then condemn them not too harshly, for with all the frothy aid of systematic instruction, yet do our own fair fall, and deep indeed, for such is the prejudice of an unfeeling world—that, the once fond mother who sedulously watched their infant years, and sisters who shared the warm confidence of their bosoms—must know them no more. Tis a heart rending truth. Better then, perhaps, do the thoughtless South Sea Islanders act, in looking with a benevolent eye, on what mankind has, from the "beginning," and will to the "end," err in, even should civilized institutions—which is hardly possible—become more severe—and a still greater
126 1792 April Otahytey
restraint be imposed on the laws of all powerful nature.
Orepaia came on board in the evening after having with a number of natives been working at our encampment. With the greater part of the Chiefs, he had acquired a violent attachment to spirituous liquors (Yava no Pretaney.) Towards night he became quite intoxicated and in high spirits, talking much of his honour and consequence, and made many promises to his Tayo Bond. The wind was from the westward in the morning, giving more than a usual degree of warmth to the atmosphere. The Thermometer at noon was 87½°.
The operation of tatowing was this day performed by a native on one of the seamen. The marking instruments are of various breadths, from a quarter of an inch to two formed of fish bone with teeth like a comb. This is fastened to an handle, forming an adze. After being dipped in a black composition it is applied to the part intended to be marked, and struck sharply with a small wooden spatula. The blows produce blood, as well as considerable pain and subsequent inflamation, but this ceases ere long, when the ornaments, which are various, remain indelible. It is frequently necessary to repeat the operation from the accute pain endured when applied to the more susceptible parts of the body. There are many marks adopted by particular classes. The Eareoyes [Arioi] have generally a large spot under the left breast. About the time of entering their teens, the young girls become fit subjects for the tatowing instruments, the swell of the hip and its environs, being chosen for the field of operation. This, is sometimes done in curved lines, and at others, in a broad one of
127 1792 April Otahytey
two or three inches, which on a clear nankeen coloured skin has a lively effect, giving great relief to the eye. Some prefer the Vandyke fashion diverging oe'r the smooth surface of their more fleshy part, forming a star of nearly half a foot in diameter.
No girl at any of our fashionable finishing seminaries in the neighbourhood of Queen, or Bloomsbury Squares, when she takes leave of her tucker, feels warmer hopes than do these damsels when they submit to this short lived pain. The deeper the wounds, the greater the triumph, the more their boast, nor is perswasion at all required to gain an exhibition of these proud stains.
The sight was interesting and novel. Their contempt of pain at so early an age, we could not but admire, yet not more than their complacency in anticipating our most critical researches. The operation is sometimes performed with such severity as to raise the skin considerably, nor were subjects wanting, on whom the rays of light were not necessary, to prove their being tatowed, a Basso-Relievo being very evident to another of the senses.
As whim and notoriety, seem my dear James, to be the "order of the day" among you, it has surprised me much, that some of our dashing demi-reps have not come forward—backward might have been said—compleatly tatowed. If on the embrowned skin of the Otahytean fair one it proves so interesting, how heavenly would it appear in contrast with the snowy whiteness of the ignoble part of our own lovely countrywomen! And then, the luxury, with what trembling timidity, would the gazing
128 1792 April Otahytey
operator, lost in admiration, apply the instruments.
In the evening there was the usual trade wind.
16th. A party under the command of Guthrie landed this day and took possession of our Post near Point Venus. Pearce, with his marines Ships Company to give it quite the military appearance. I am not writing for the world it is true, but I cannot resist bearing, even to you, my humble testimony to the unremitting attention and good conduct of Pearce and his small party from Chatham. Indeed, in essential points of service this truly valuable Corps have rarely been found remiss.
The Thief this morning when we were busy, contrived to throw himself overboard without disengaging the irons. By very prompt exertion he was saved from drowning. His countrymen reporting him insane, (nenera) he was sent on shore.
Messieurs Wiles and Smith the Botanists, were by this time making considerable progress in the collection of Bread fruit and other plants, which were deposited in the shed before mentioned as built for the purpose. About this time there was a cessation of hostilities, but Poenow and Tupira still kept aloof with a small party.
Pomaurey paid us his first visit to day, but without any form or ceremony. He was accompanied by his father Otow a venerable old man apparently about seventy, very grey and infirm, and whose skin was much affected from drinking of Yava.
In the dress of Otow and his son there was no diffirence from the other Chiefs, but the canoe in which they came was covered with an awning of canes and network. Edeea was of the party, and her
129 1792 April Otahytey
sister Whyhereddy, a younger and more handsome wife. My Tayo brought me a hog, some fruit, and a quantity of cloth, the latter being wrapped round me as when we became friends.
In honor of the regents visit some guns were fired which rather alarmed him, nor did he quit the side of Whyhereddy, the whole cannonade. Edeea now complained of hunger, nor was she many minutes in devouring full two pounds of pork, with as much brandy and water as would have staggered any seaman in the ship. Pomaurey and his two wives slept on board. Poor Edeea seemed neglected for those charms still in bloom of her younger sister, and was seldom allowed to share her Lords bed.
17th. Facts are all I deal in; you, who have more leisure and research, may reason on them as "seems wise." It was my destiny this morning, to stumble on Orepaia, brother of the King regent in an unequivocal situation with Whyhereddy. It was by accident be assured, as it has ever been my maxim—and ever shall—not to interfere with the private associations of any one—nor, should I have entered the six foot cabin of my friend Guthrie—at least without knocking—had I in the slightest degree suspected it had been converted into a rendezvous for gallantry. The discovery however served to convince me that the Royal family were as incontinent as those in a more subordinate sphere. An enjoinment of secrecy took place, not only from the parties, but, strange to tell, from Edeea, the neglected and almost repudiated Edeea. But I am disposed to suspect that she had her weak moments, and that Pomaurey was the dupe of both.
130 1792 April Otahytey
The very high bred, hacknied dames of quality of our own Island might here take a lesson of courtly indiffirence: Dining with Captain Bligh I found Pomaurey of the party, who never contaminates his hands with the touch of food, but is crammed like a Turkey by one of his attendants; nor is it possible to conceive any thing more ludicrous than this operation. He received several glasses of wine from me, which I was instructed to pour down his eager throat as he sat with his hands totally unemployed. Pomaurey appeared about five and Forty, as well as his brothers his skin was darker than that of most of the natives, nor was it much tatowed. In height he was above six feet, and of a strong muscular frame, but an awkward stoop, with a vacant unmeaning countenance, in which indolence and good nature were the leading features. Certainly it must be confessed that Whyhereddy evinced taste, although at the expence of constancy, in preferring Orepaia who was a most interesting figure, and bore the character of a great warrior, while that of the regent was quite the reverse.
Pomaurey had but little external distinction paid him, nor was it uncommon for the towtows to converse jocularly with him and sit in his presence. The women it is true, were not allowed to eat in his company; indeed the sexes among all classes at Otahytey seperate when at their meals. It was however dispensed with on board the Providence, Edeea and Whyhereddy constantly joining at our dinner table with the Chiefs.
Many of the Matavaians having withdrawn from the district, their antagonists availed themselves of it to plunder the houses of the few articles left in them.
131 1792 April Otahytey
18th. Visiting the Post this morning, my messmates seemed comfortably settled, except being dreadfully tormented by flies, which are very numerous at the Island. I did not hear of any musquitos, which is rather singular in a tropical country.
The Botanists were busily employed in bringing in plants and forming a little garden. Young Otoo was about the post all day, but never dismounted his towtows shoulders, who alternately relieved each other of their princely burthen,. Pearce had given him a scarlet jacket, of which he was not a little vain, making him in return a present of some cloth, fruit, and a hog. His young majesty without much ceremony asked for every thing that particularly pleased him, and had all his requests been complied with, some of us would have been left Sans Cullottes. Of his privileges he seemed to an inconvenience tenacious; it rained heavily the major part of the day, yet he did not condescend to enter any habitation, taking shelter under the umbrage of a bread fruit tree, and we were informed that, he never on any account entered any house but his own. He had the happy facility of pronouncing many english words, particularly those expressive of his wants.
In the young Kings retinue was a native of a colour disgustingly white. Similar instances have been met with in many Indian countries. He was of a weak frame of body, and by no means equal to his countrymen in figure. The Otahyteans have dark penetrating hazel eyes, but those of this poor wretch, who seemed to have been ushered into the world imperfect, were of a light grey colour, and so weak that it was with difficulty he kept them open.
132 1792 April Otahytey
His hair and eyebrows, though equally strong with the other natives, were of a white flaxen colour. His skin was sorely blistered by the sun which encouraged the flies to incessantly torment him. The sight of this man perplexed our seamen considerably, nor was it without much perswasion they were convinced he was not a European settled on the Island.
I remember being once with you, where a person of a similar description from the African Coast was exhibited as a phenomenon. We only went to see. It is for those who search deeply into physical causes, to aim at explaining—what, they will still be in the dark about—as much as you or me.
Strolling not an hundred yards from the post the Matavai river came suddenly on my view, on the banks of which clear and beautiful stream, the bread fruit, Cocoa nut, and avee were growing in the most luxuriant state; amid which, it was mortifying to see most of the houses deserted, and many totally destroyed by the war. In crossing the river, which was on the shoulders of a native, there was a friendly conflict among them for this post of kindness and attention. To have refrained from dispersing the few beads (poeys) in my pockets, among this more than willing group, would have argued a heart callous to every grateful sensation.
19. Numbers of Chiefs were on board early in the morning, their Towtows bringing a quantity of Yava root for their recreation. As the whole process of Manufacturing the liquor took place on board, I was particular in observing it. The root, fresh from the ground, the earth not
133 1792 April Otahytey
being washed off, is first masticated by the Towtows for about two hours, the juice expressed from it, being discharged by the mouth into a wooden tray. At this time it becomes of a consistence similar to the cud of an ox, the remains of the root being with it. Milk from the Cocoa nut is now added, and well beat up together. There yet remains to eradicate the coarse and stringy parts, which is effected by rincing a bunch of grass which collects it, leaving the Yava a liquid of the colour of muddy water. It is now portioned into Cocoa nut shells for drinking, and no sooner swallowed than every one eats immoderately of bread fruit, plantains, or Mahee, a preparation of the first by fermentation.
Edeea drank nearly a point [pint?] of this deleterious beverage, but it seemed that, the effect, and not the pleasure while drinking it was alone cultivated, as no child ever evinced more disgust at a dose of rhubarb that her majesty and the whole party did as it passed their lips. It soon spreads its baneful influence on the human frame; In ten minutes my Tayo, scarcely able to support herself begged permission to recline her tottering limbs on a bed, which was no sooner reached, than she unavoidably sunk into a profound sleep for several hours. Another of their courtly party came reeling into the Ward room with all the symptoms of epilepsy, or affection of St. Vitus's dance; this man it was also found necessary to support to another couch. Yet so violent is the attachments of these people to Yava that, it is among the few plants cultivated in the lower grounds, and however
134 1792 April Otahytey
averse the Otahytean is to exertion, he thinks his labour well repaid by bringing from the distant mountains this pernicious root, where it grows in abundance. Like many other opiates, it is succeeded by the most enervating effects to the whole body, and when taken to excess affects the skin with a rough scaly appearance.
Guthrie and myself, however disgusting the preparation, were willing to follow the example of our visitors. About half an hour after taking a large cup full which was but a moderate dose, its narcotic effects were very perceptible, a pleasurable giddiness succeeding, which soon terminated in an undisturbed sleep of about three hours. The small quantity taken, was probably the reason why I suffered but little after awaking, a slight uneasiness over the temples, which subsided in about an hour, only taking place; but so sweet is the sleep promoted by Yava, that were it now within reach of your friend, it would be sought with avidity, even with the certainty of a subsequent head ache, or shattered frame, sometimes experienced by taking too copiously of Yava no Pretaney (English Yava)
My messmates experienced similar effects with myself.
It is not within my recollection whether the Yava plant was taken on board the Providence at Otahytey, but it certainly never reached the West Indies. The root from its powerful nature might probably be of use in medicine. It would appear from an account in some old voyages, that it was known in these seas nearly two centuries ago; Schouten in 1616 at Horn Island in Latd. 14°..16′ South says, "After
135 1792 April Otahytey
"this, they prepared for a solemn banquet, and in order to do it began to make ready their liquor, which they did in this slovenly manner. There came into the presence a company of fellows with a good quantity of Cana, (which is the herb of which they make their drink) each of which, having crammed in a mouthful of it, they began to chew together; having chewed it awhile, they put it out of their mouths into a large wooden trough and poured water upon it, and fell to stirring and squeezing it, and having pressed out all the goodness, they presented it to the two Kings."
20th. Several Chiefs from Moreea visited the ship, Pomaurey being very assiduous in pointing out her diffirent parts. Although a dull man he gained much in our esteem by his uncommon good nature. I again met him at Captain Blighs table, where Edeea and Whyhereddy joined the party and eat in his presence, notwithstanding a forbearance of it was strictly observed on shore. His younger wife shared the honour of his bed on board.
About Sun set the girls collected on the Quarter deck to dance the Heeva as usual. No solicitation was required, as they took great delight in this amusement. The party o these occasions, consisted generally, of from ten to twenty. The Chief study of the performers seemed to be in keeping exact time with their feet and hands, clapping the latter together with great regularity and a sharp noise; at the same time repeating short sentences with an arch look, chiefly the scandal of the day, where our names, as well as those of our Island friends were frequently introduced. The dances were of short
136 1792 April Otahytey
continuance, but often repeated, the performers exhibiting their pliant well formed limbs in the most sportive postures; at times, full of the most encouraging invitation, when suddenly, as if anger or neglect gave birth to it, the coy repulsive movement succeeded—but of short duration—as, at the winding up of the dance, every look, every motion, solicited the warm admiration of the gazing spectators. And may ye, my good and cheerful girls, long dance the Heeva, unconscious that among us, it would be deemed full of danger to the morals of our refined damsels. Tis the custom of your favoured Isle, and in doing it, you are as free from turpitude as the City Miss, who, under the strict observance of her Mammas eye, stiffly paces at Lord Mayors ball the laboured minuet; or rustic red cheeked lass, who, in the hoyden revel, receives the eager pressure of her partners lips with more than half met joy.
22d. Having made a party in the hope of reaching the source of the Matavai, we left the post at early dawn. Its direction for a short distance was parallel with the beach, then from the East about a quarter of a mile, when it again took a northern course from the mountains.
About a mile and an half from the post, after passing the low land which in most parts girts the Island, we entered a valley about half a mile across, the hills rising gently on each side richly clothed above half way to their summits, with bread fruit, cocoa nut, Avees, Eratta, (a large kind of chesnut) and many other trees whose names were unknown to us. The soil was here very rich. We passed many houses, but in general
137 1792 April Otahytey
they were injured and deserted in consequence of the war. The valley however was not destitute of people, and, as is ever the case with the european traveller at this Island, our party increased as we went along.
Advancing up the stream bread fruit and cocoa nuts became scarce, and the valley more confined. After walking about three miles, having crossed the river several times on the natives shoulders, we came to some inhabited houses, contiguous to which was an offering to the Eotooa (or god) on account of the war. The oblation consisted of twelve hogs placed on four stools, three on each, about five feet from the ground. Near them was a Square pavement of about twelve feet, and one high, with twenty long stones standing upright on it, ornamented at their tops, about two feet high, with the common bonnet (Tawmowtow) worn by the women. Ignorance of the language denied our getting any information, but that everything was sacred to Eotooa, and that the offering was for his protection in the war. The hogs were in a dreadful putrid state, giving the air of this part of the valley by no means a fragrance. A little higher up, three very fine shaddock trees attracted our notice, two of them teeming with fruit. The natives estimate this fruit but lightly, though they call it Ooroo no pretaney. (English bread fruit) They were brought from the Friendly Islands.
These trees were planted in 1777 by the late Mr. Nelson, who was with Captain Cook in his last voyage. An old man whose habitation received shade from them spoke with affection and the warmest gratitude of our countryman, and with unfeigned sorrow lamented
138 1792 April Otahytey
his death when informed of it. Here, we sufficiently understood one anothers language; little indeed was there to explain. Nelson died at Timor in 1789.
The country soon became more wild and picturesque. In many places the current being impeded by huge rocks, where it did find a passage, was very rapid. Bread fruit and cocoa nuts were no more to be seen, but there were plantains the whole of our walk, and the soil, where free from rocks, productive. On either side many beautiful cataracts from a great height suddenly caught the eye, yet not without a warning as we approached, by their roar in forcing a passage among the woody cliffs to the stream below. At this distance no more habitations were observed.
Our guides not became urgent for returning, but though every foot became more difficult we were not willing to leave undetermined the object of of [sic] our pursuit; another inducement also, the hope of reaching a cascade called Peeir, by the natives, made us journey on. Extending our rugged walk about two miles we were indeed rewarded for our labour. It is formed by a perpendicular basaltic rock of above an hundred feet, extending at its base, on the right bank of the river more than two hundred. The margin above projects a few feet, the water falling in a broad sheet without meeting resistance until it reaches some detached rocks, whence by several channels a still deep pool receives it. The pillars are closely connected, but in many parts broken. Similar rocks were observed in the course of our walk. The Drawing of the Peeir was from recollection on returning to the post, perhaps the pillars may not
139 1792 April Otahytey
be critically correct, but the general appearance is all that is attempted. The weather had been dry for some days previously to our excursion up the Matavai; doubtless after rain the fall acquires an additional degree of beauty and grandeur.
Above the Peeir the river became very confined, In some places it was a clear deep pool, while in others it rushed amid the rocks with great force and rapidity. Our Island friends had by this time quitted us in numbers, being reduced to about a third of the party gleaned in the valley. The day advanced so fast, we were under the necessity of returning, much chagrined at not having reached the source. A rock in the mid stream served as a resting place, where we sat down to refresh ourselves with Cocoa nut milk, of which fruit some had been brought from the lower grounds. There could not be a more delightfully retired spot. Every surrounding object disposed this mind to quiet contemplation. On the one side a lofty mountain richly clothed with various trees to the summit, whose branches nearly reaching a stupendous bald cliff opposed to it, overhanging the river full of threats, scarcely allowed a glimpse of the blue canopy of heaven; yet through the playful foliage was a faint view of the purpled summit of the Isle (Otoos Horns) far above the fleeting clouds along its side. The Tropic bird, the Sheerwater, and other sea fowl, as if weary of their watry element, were ranging high in air above these craggy steeps, in whose recesses they rear their young. Here no animal, no reptile with envenomed
140 1792 April Otahytey
fang, as in most tropical countries, is to be found checking the ardent researches of the traveller. Not even the soaring rapacious kite, the trembling dread of the smaller feathered tribe was here ever seen.
[Marginal note:]
The Island of Otahytey is the only part of the World which I have ever visited without noticing the Hawke
or Kite species (Query St. Helena!) It is also somewhat remarkable that there are no snakes of any kind,
or frogs, or toads.
From so interesting a spot, it was not that we returned to the boisterous scenes of nautic employment without reluctance. It was night ere we reached our encampment, not a little fatigued, yet highly gratified with the excursion.
In many parts of the river the natives were procuring small fish by making a dam across it with stones where it was shallow. To this dam the fish were driven by people coming down the stream and beating it with bushes, interstices being made to which baskets were applied. It is hardly credible what numbers are taken in this simple way. Others were caught near the bottom by introducing a small "landing net" under them.
23d. Mahu, the Tayo of Guthrie, visited the ship this morning. This Chief, a native of the Island of Oryeteea, was above six fee three inches in height, with a handsome countenance and very robust figure. A recent discovery proved him to be as incontinent as his neighbours; but the sister of Pomaurey [blank] was always remarkable for her gaiety, and is mentioned by Captain Cook as excelling in the Heeva, nor indeed had she forgotten it, frequently mingling in the dance with the younger damsels on the quarter deck of the Providence. As the Otahyteans do us the honor of imitating some of our manners, no little pains were taken to please her, in the assurance that
141 1792 April Otahytey
our english ladies never felt old, that being Grandmothers rendered them more lovely in the eyes of our Chiefs, and that five and forty was the criterion of beauty, while the warm blood mantled but in vain, on the vermeil cheek of neglected sixteen. Where James, did our countrymen acquire this strange, this unseemly propensity? Is fashion, as in the cut of our coats, to influence us in an election where nature should alone guide? Surely, such ought not to be.
In the evening the marines were exercised, with which the natives, were highly gratified.
Bread fruit and other plants were rapidly collecting, and Messrs. Wiles and Smith soon expected to complete their number.
Otoo about this time built a small house not far from the post, intending to spend some days at Matavai. Orepaia with his wife Ena Madua, and her sister were on board most of the day; the latter, Orepaia presented to his Tayo, nor would the laws of hospitality admit of his refusing the boon of of [sic] this generous Chief. Ena Madua was fed by one of her Towtows, but we were informed, only for a certain period, in consequence of the recent death of a relation. In her ear she wore a lock of the hair of the deceased, her own being cut in ridges as a mark of sorrow.
Every day served to convince us the more, of the violent attachment of these people to intoxication liquors, as well as to their own Yava; Edeea this evening on the parade, was past utterance, and it was necessary to support her from falling.
24th. In the afternoon I accompanied our worthy Doctor in a walk to the eastward of
142 1792 April Otahytey
the river. Our notice was soon drawn to a double canoe hauled up on the beach near to which was Otoo's house.
Here, for the first time I saw him sit down. Being desirous of examining the canoe, as we approached it the
young Monarch evinced much displeasure, his attendants repeating Eotooa, Eotooa, (the god, the god):
not wishing to give any offence we proceeded no farther, but it sufficed to observe that on one of the prows
there was a roasted hog with the head of another, besides bread fruit, plantains, and sugar canes; The other prow
supported a large bundle about five feet in length covered with red european cloth. Several bunches of feathers
were hung to diffirent parts of the canoe, and on its fore part was erected a stage three feet in height,
supported by a railing on which was a long box in the form of a coffin covered with a canopy of reeds and net work.
It Wore Ship understood that this box was to protect the Eotooa, (who was wrapped up in the red cloth,) in
bad weather. The canoe had recently arrived, decorated in this manner from Oparrey, Otoo coming in
her. On the beach were two Island drums ornamented with european cloth. The provisions were for the Eotooas
consumption. Otoos house was nearly full of the diffirent finery with which he had been presented by
officers of the various vessels that had visited Otahytey.
Chapter 3 Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 5