Chapter 4 Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 6
Revised Jun 9 2021
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Visit Oparrey – Coral rocks – Tarro – Pomaureys large house – Climbing Cocoa nut trees – Torano – Fishing – Dine with Tarro – Toopapows, with a corpse – Meat, how baked – Bamboo forks – Salt water for sauce – One Tree hill – Girls dancing the Heeva – Talk of peace – Great desire of the natives for shot and powder – Strong liquors – Mr. Whyte robbed – Dine with several Chiefs in the Cabin – Whyhereddy, Pomaureys younger Wife – Visit Whapiano with the Surgeon – Upset in a canoe – The root Tarro – Secession of the Sea – Visit Tupira – His Character – Whapiano river – Visit Whidooah – Stone Morai – Whidooahs wife Tai Aiva – Towrowmey, the operation of – Natives fishing for mullet – Excursion up Matavai river – Mother of the King regent visits the ship – Maid of Honour – Native punished for theft – Plaited human hair – Tamow – Statutes at large – Ena Madua jealous – Noise of pigs – Pomaurey fed – Eareoys Society – Sheets stolen – Pomaureys attendants – Virgin – Drummer punished – Kids wanted – Attend watering party – &c &c
Thetis Coast of America Feby. 1797
25th. A small party this morning was made to visit the district of Oparrey and the country westward of it. On reaching the harbour, which we did in a canoe, the sea was as smooth as glass, affording us the gratification of a submarine view of the coral rocks on either side its deep but narrow entrance, branching in the most singular forms, among which a variety of highly coloured fish were gliding about in search of food. Soon after landing our party was encreased by the Surgeon of the Assistant, with his Tayo Tarro, who ordered
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a hog to be baked for dinner against our return. For five or six miles our walk was by the windings of the
coast, a reef encircling it the whole way from a quarter to three quarters of a mile distant, through which
at about mid-way, there is an opening to Taawney bay. On the west part of this bay was a very large
house belonging to Pomaurey at this time inhabited by an old Orieteean Chief, who received us
with real hospitality, instantly sending his Towtows to a neighbouring tree for Cocoa nuts to refresh
us. The natives climb these trees with an agility and confidence really surprising. They first fasten to their
feet a piece of soft rope made of grass, about three feet in length, which being doubled extends nearly half
as much. After embracing the tree, they press with their feet this band, which prevents them from slipping,
and thus alternately shifting their hands and feet, in a short minute reach the fruit, which is frequently
nearly an hundred feet from the ground. Nor, is the manner in which the fruit from this height is preserved
from injury in the fall less to be admired. This is effected by a sudden twist of the hand, giving it a spiral
motion while descending through the air, by which means it falls on the point without bursting, which otherwise
would be the case. They do not always succeed in this attempt, and when the fruit falls on its side a loss
of the milk is generally the consequence. You are well acquainted with the cocoa nut and will be the
more surprised in being told that, it is not uncommon to see these Islanders taking off the husk with their
teeth without any difficulty.
As this was the largest house I saw on the Island, it made me particular in getting its dimensions
The length was sixty two yards, and the extreme
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breadth fifteen, supported at the ridge by nine pillars about sixteen feet high, and at the eaves by seventy two, half of that height. Except at one end for about ten yards, where it was enclosed by bamboo railing, the whole extent was open to a free current of air; the roof was a strong thatch of the Wharra tree (wild pine). Waiting some time with the old Orieteean, our walk was continued to the house of Torano and elderly lady related to the royal family, and who was frequent in her visits to the ship. On presenting her a knife, Tepay, she was very thankful. The Sun became so oppressively warm as we walked along the beach that it obliged us to return. The tide had fallen, and it is almost incredible the number of people, chiefly women and children, that were employed along the shore and on the reefs, in procuring shell and other fish, by various means. There was one boy with a stick about ten feet in length, at the end of which was a fine line, which being passed through a small hole acted as a noose. This he applied to the small recesses of the coral rocks, ensnaring the fish as they passed in and out with great success. The stick he guided with his right hand, attending the line with his left. {Vide Fish. Pages, 27, 28, 51, 52, 58, 59, 60, 61 [This refers to his drawings.]
Not any thing that the sea produces is rejected by the Otahytean, even the Sea Egg is eaten greedily in a raw state.
Toranos house again served as a resting place, where we found a mat spread on the grass under a bread fruit tree with the usual refreshments.
Being engaged to dine with Tarro, the old Ladys friendly offer of slaughtering a hog was not accepted. She had in fact ordered her
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Towtows to put one in requisition, which Tarro communicated barely in time to save it.
The route homewards differed by its being through the plain. The intense heat of the sun, with the progress of a flood tide had brought the fishers among the shady bread fruit from their labours, and the same number of these cheerful people were still seen. Several streams from the mountains served to refresh every part of this plenteous plain. Some Morais or burying places, as well as Toopapows, where the dead are for a time placed until ultimately deposited in the former, attracted our notice. These were scattered all over the district no particular part being allotted for them. One, considerably more splendid than the rest you will see a drawing of. It was a square of fifteen feet by twelve, and nearly five in height. Inside this enclosure of reeds, which was decorated with bunches of the Wharra (wild pine) was a Stage about six feet from the ground, supported by wooden pillars. Boards were fixed on this stage, the Corpse being laid on them covered with the country cloth, red, as well as white. From the stage, rails on each side supported a canopy of reeds, covered with black, and white cloth, richly ornamented with tassels of Cocks feathers. The back and sides of the Canopy were hung with white cloth,. Under the stage a large sleeping mat was folded with much care, and in the front of the enclosure a quantity of white cloth lay on the ground, near to which, a square of about eighteen feet, was covered with fresh grass in the manner of the floors in some of the Chiefs houses. The mat, we were told, was for the deceased to sleep on when it was necessary.
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A few yards from the Toopapow, diffirent kinds of food were placed on a small table which was to be frequently replenished. A small Morai was near at hand, and about two high, with nothing remarkable about it, but the bust of a man carved in stone: the only instance I saw of sculpture among these people. Cocoa nuts and plantains were growing among the stones of the Morai.
It was the corpse of the child of an Eree; the mother was present while we were prying into the contents of the tomb, more amused with our curiosity, than concerned for what gave occasion to it, laughing heartily the whole time.
Soon after reaching Tarros house, a fine hog smoking from the oven made its appearance. It can hardly be necessary for you to be informed that the Otahyteans bake their meet [meat] by first digging a hole in the ground, in which are placed stones heated for the purpose in a fire close at hand. The animal being wrapped in several folds of plantain, or other large leaves, is laid on these stones, when more, equally hot, are placed above, and the whole well covered with earth, the air being totally excluded. In less than three hours a large hog is in this manner admirably baked, superior indeed by far than could be effected in the most finished european oven. Plantains and other fruit are frequently placed inside of the animal baking.
Tarros dinner was served up with as much taste as his Island utensils would admit, he did not forget to point out having prepared a table cloth in the english style, and he had employed his own and his Towtows time during our walk, in
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making forks of bamboo, supposing it would please.
Here, have we a lesson for the frothy unmeaning courtier who would smilingly perswade us, he anticipates our every comfort—while perhaps in the same breath, he wishes us at, the devil.
Tarro did it in the honesty of his soul. As a substitute for salt, a cocoa nut shell of the pure pacific ocean was placed by each guest, nor without being found very palatable after a little use.
After taking a hearty and most welcome meal, and with Yava no pretaney drinking the health of King George, a custom generally followed on such occasions by the Chiefs, we bid our host a good evening. During the whole visit Tarros house was surrounded by natives, striving who could be foremost in rendering us any service.
The distance from Oparrey to the post was about two miles. A Cliff called generally by us "One Tree Hill" is the boundary line of the two districts. After passing this spot we met a large party of girls dancing the Heeva; who on joining, redoubled their exertions to please, no could we in return resist distributing the few beads (poeys) left in our pockets, among these nimble damsels. They were on their road to get a lodging on board the Providence or Assistant, and having a little leisure, ere the hammocks were piped down, travelled in this cheerful manner. It was common indeed, to see them when on a journey from one district to another, dancing merrily along the whole way, nor without the hope of meeting some of our countrymen who
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were always solicited for some trifle or other with such an artless smile, it could not but be complied with.
About this time Poenow with many of the Matavaians returned, and began erecting houses on the spots where the old ones had been demolished by their enemies. Peace was much talked of, a meeting of the Chiefs having taken place at Oparrey to consider of it.
Walking up the river with my gun many natives attended, and it is impossible to describe the pleasure they evinced at seeing a swallow shot flying.
So great is the estimation these people place on all kinds of fire arms and ammunition that a dozen of them were anxiously employed in picking up the few shot that fell on the ground in charging my gun, and but a few days before one of the Chiefs offered the Sergeant of marines some curiosities in great demand, for four balled cartridges.
The traffic at first so acceptable to these altered people now bears little value when compared with weapons of any kind; and there is but too much reason to dread the sad consequences of vessels, particularly trading ones, touching at this and the neighbouring Isles. For a dozen Muskets and a good proportion of ammunition a large vessel could procure an abundant supply of provisions. Strong liquors are also sought with avidity. These among too many others, are acquired evils at Otahytey, unknown happily, until introduced by the visits of civilized nations. What does this future promise? Does the avaricious trader much heed what misery his
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destructive articles produce among untutored indians: He wants refreshments and supplies, to enable him to prosecute, in this distant quarter of the globe, his greedy scheme of gain—and if Gunpowder or pernicious enervating brandy, should be demanded in preference to the useful Axe or ornamental bead, will they not be given without reflecting on the consequences?
Until this day, the natives only interrupted us by kindness in our excursions; but Mr. Whyte, one of the Surgeons mates wandering too far without a guide, was plundered of his handkerchief by a man whom he met in the woods. The thief displayed some address and ingenuity having offered his friendly services to conduct our countrymen to the hills, while his shoulders bore him safely over many a stream, until far from the busy "haunts of man," when, being by far the strongest of the two, he without ceremony rifled the doctors pockets, nor did he leave instructions which was the shortest way back to the post.
With Pomaurey, Orepaia, Edeea, and Whyhereddy, I had the honour of dining at Captain Blighs table to day. The King regent had scarcely finished his meal when he betook himself to toy with the false Whyhereddy, who, heedless of our presence, was reclining her finely turned limbs, not too much enveloped in drapery, on the cabin floor.
There was a disparity in the years of Pomaurey and Shyhereddy, which at Otahytey is by no means uncommon. It has before been observed that his Majesty is of the numerous fraternity of Cuckolds, but like many among ourselves, seemed not away of what he was robbed, or else, was indiffirent about it. Yet did he doat on his younger
[Marginal note:]
Mr. Whyte (as well as Mr. Ridgeway) was promoted shortly after the return of the Providence. He died in
Egypt in 1802. He had embraced an opinion that the plague was not contagious and inoculated himself twice
for it without any effect. On making a third trial
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wife, who with an art, inseperable from her sex, managed this amorous infirmity, to her own benefit and amusement.
The whole day Orepaia was very indignant in consequence of several articles having been stolen from our shipmates at the post; giving every assurance that strict searches could be made to discover the thief.
30th. Early in the morning Harwood and myself quitted the ship for the post, with an intention of walking to Whapiano, five or six miles eastward of Point Venus, first calling on board the Assistant for a gentleman who was to be of the party. The Canoe in which we were going on shore, was a single one, very small, and heavily freighted, nor was it long before she overturned, sousing us all completely. Had not our good Doctor effected a fast gripe by the outrigger, where he clung magnanimously, the "number of our mess" would have been reduced, and the world have lost a truly estimable character, as he could no more swim, than one of his own coins. To the rest, it was rather a ludicrous affair, as a boat from our consort soon landed us in safety.
This disaster did not frustrate the excursion, and getting our clothes dried at the post, we proceeded with two confidential natives.
We soon passed a quantity of Tarro, a kind of yam or eddoe, with which the Island abounds, it being issued daily to our crew as one of the substitutes for bread. This root delights in a moist soil; in many places, it was in a luxuriant state nearly half a foot in the water. Some pains had been bestowed in enclosing it against the destruction of their hogs.
[Marginal note concludes:]
which communicated the disease, it caused his death in two or three days. GT 1803
But, Vide an account in the beginning of this book, since not within.
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The surf along the beach broke high, though sheltered by a reef, and opening in which appeared about two miles from Point Venus, as well as others as we walked eastward.
The path along whore was nearly obstructed when about four miles from the post, by a high cliff forming the western boundary of Whapiano. As well as the language would admit our guides described that when Captain Wallis visited the Island in 1767 there was no travelling, even at low water, at the foot of these cliffs, and that there had been a gradual secession of the sea on most parts of the Island.
Tupira had taken up his residence in this district, to who, we paid a visit, being received with much civility, yet with a reserve that seemed to arise from an apprehension our views might be hostile to his party. He was surrounded by Matavaians and his own family, apparently prepared for an attack.
The whole conduct of this Chief evinced a spirit of enterprize and dignity of character superior to any one I had yet seen. Most of his front teeth were missing from the blow of a stone, in defending what he deemed his right, and he had still an unhealed wound in his knee from the same weapon. In our conversation pistols were mentioned, which instantly caught his attention, while it animated a countenance in which suspicion could not but be perceived that he still doubted his visitors. This it was our study to remove, when he anxiously requested to see them. Thinking he would be gratified I fired at a mark, which more from accident than skill, took place exactly, gaining me so much
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applause that I had prudence not to risk losing it by a second attempt. Being our host, we said nothing, from a point of delicacy, of the Matildas muskets, but were afterwards informed that he kept them under his sleeping mat.\
The usual refreshments of fruit and cocoa nut milk being taken, the walk was continued about two miles further eastward, when the river presented itself, after our having crossed several smaller streams.
The mouth of the Whapiano is above an hundred yards across, its bed being formed of large dark pebbles. The view up the stream is singularly grand and picturesque; but it was rendered imperfect this day by the distant mountains being enveloped in clouds. A sketch I made will give you a faint idea—and but a faint one—of this beautiful landscape.
The usual mode of crossing the rivers, on the natives shoulders, placed us on the eastern bank, but after heavy rains, this is not to be effected but in canoes.
Whidooah, the Tayo of Harwood, who had a house in this district received us cordially, instantly ordering the slaughter of a hog (Boa) but as time would not admit of the whole being baked, a limb was cut off and put in the oven.
As usual we were surrounded by men, women, and children, from all parts of the plain who without any deference to the mansion of a prince of the blood soon compleatly filled it.
While the joint was baking we strolled up the stream to a place sacred to the Eotooa (god) in a large enclosed square of railing. Near to it was a stone Morai, (burying place) and,
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as at the Toopapow in Oparrey a small table with diffirent kind of provisions. All information was denied us by our ignorance of the language, except that, every thing was sacred to Eotooa, even a musical instrument formed of a large conch shell with a bamboo pipe to it. Apropos, there is one of them in our collection at home.
The shoulder was served up on our return, and cleanliness, if not elegance, was as conspicuous as at the most fashionably appointed table in Europe. Leaves, fresh from the tree, served for a table cloth, the appetite had been assisted by exercise, and we had the cheering looks of our host—when awake—with those of his pretty wife Tai Aiva—the Belle of the Isle—to crown the whole.
Whidooah during our walk had taken a moderate portion of Yava, and we found him reclining on the lap of his wife, much disposed to sleep; nor was it long before the somnific effects of the Yava, aided by the operation of towrowmey, (in which Tai Aiva and the Towtows were employed) fixed him in a sound nap for an hour or two.
After fatigue, I have experienced the most delightful relief from this custom (Towrowmey) of rubbing and compressing the diffirent parts of the body, and so sensible are the natives of its salutary effects that we never entered a house after a long walk but it was offered to be administered, which I can assure you was ever eagerly embraced by your friend. Pomaurey was generally encouraged in his afternoon nap by the operation of towrowmey, nor was it
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uncommon, to see it persevered in, after the drowsy god had taken possession of his Majesty.
Taking a friendly leave we returned towards the Post.
Tai Aiva crossed the Whapiano in simple nudity, unconscious of her hitherto hidden charms, for the translucency of the stream but ill served, however in some places deep, to envelop them.
Tupiras served as a resting place, where every thing was prepared for our refreshment.
It was flood tide, and many of the natives were fishing for mullet with rod and line in the same manner the fly is used for trout.
3d. Mr. Frankland, Surgeon of the Assistant, accompanied me early in the morning to explore the mountains towards Otoos horns (Orooynah) as far as the day would allow. In our way through the plain three natives attached themselves to us. The Hills above the plain rose gradually in ridges, being generally cloathed with fern, but nearly destitute of trees. The soil did not appear good, but higher up it improved. A path was soon reached taking the direction we wanted.
About four miles from the post, in a southern direction, having passed the middle hills before mentioned, the country became more woody as we continued along a ridge seperating Matavai river from a smaller one eastward of it. The path was so narrow, our march was by Indian file. On either side was a valley some hundred yards beneath, in many places the descent nearly perpendicular. Two of the natives here bade us farewell, but the one, on whom
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we placed confidence as a guide, journeyed on with spirit.
On the departure of his countrymen, a small piece of baked hog, a single cocoa nut, and a small pocket flask of brandy, was all our provender, and though surrounded with trees none offered any fruit that was eatable. The air was oppressively warm and our limbs felt wearied in clambering these steeps. One now before us was so discouraging that it was with pleasure the almost lost path was observed to take a direction down its eastern side. Here were great forests of wild plantain trees, but not in fruit; we were however agreeably surprised in meeting water in the hollows of the rocks. Of this we drank perhaps incautiously, rested awhile and followed the path, which brought us to the other side of the mountain, but only to present still higher rising to the view. Here they shut out the river to the eastward, but the natives beating of cloth lower down its banks was still heard.
On a birds eye view of the Matavai from this spot there was a village of about a dozen houses on a spot of cleared land near the base of Otoos Horns. To this village the Aereoyes [Arioi] resorted at particular periods to indulge uninterruptedly, in unbounded licentiousness.
As, for want of time, it was found impracticable to further ascend the mountains, the guide promised to conduct us to the Aereoye village, giving an assurance that after surmounting a high steep in front, a path led directly to it.
It was about noon and a refreshing breeze, hitherto attending us, began to decline; Our limbs
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courted rest and on looking at the guide the cocoa nut was missing. All these drawbacks staggered our resolution, and it was determined, instead of proceeding higher, to strike directly through the woods for the Matavai.
As nearly as could be estimated from the rate of travelling we were at this time about seven miles in a direct line from Point Venus, and five from (Orroynah) Otoos Horns, but it appeared impracticable to ascend their summit by the northern side.
On looking about ere we descended, on all sides but to the north, where the ocean and the small Island of Tetheroa formed the limit, we were surrounded by mountains richly clothed with wood to their very tops. Our elevation was so great that the eye circumnavigated Tetheroa, from whence to the visible horizon was several leagues; and it was plain to determine, like many of the south sea Islands, that, it was encircled by a reef. The Providence and Assistant at anchor in Matavai bay though so much nearer, could only be distinguished as two specks on the blue surface of the water.
Our grand object was to reach the river, but for ten yards before us there was no answering, the woods were so very close; the guide however pushed on cheerfully, and by vaulting from tree to stone and from stone to tree, with the variety of sliding on a part which the climate did not require to be heavily covered, trusting frequently to unfaithful twigs, and mouldering rocks, we found ourselves about an hundred yards lower.
While the Otahytean continued in view
[Marginal note:]
In 1789 Mr. Samuel, Clerk of the Bounty, saw from the mountains of Otahytey the Islands of Huhahayney and
Maiteea, which are nearly in opposite directions, seventy leagues apart.
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all went on well, yet could we not conceal that our situation was not cordially relished, and we found too late that to inveigle us into it was a plan for the purpose of robbing us with impunity. Taking advantage of some thick underwood in front, he scampered of with the agility of a monkey, nor more to be seen.
The ingenuity of our fellow traveller was great.
I had my pistols with me, which, to satisfy his curiosity had been frequently discharged in the course of our walk, and in return for this attention he very politely offered to carry them for the English Chief, who as simply granted it. Besides the pistols, he had both our jackets, and, direful to relate, the bit of pork, for which our stomachs now yearned. The brandy bottle was still left, with which we sat down on a projecting stump without a casting vote as to our proceedings. After a short debate, the same course was continued, not without execrating the Otahytean, and our own simplicity, until we came suddenly on the margin of a precipice, the bottom of which could not be seen for trees. However laborious the task, it brought us to the necessity of again ascending, which short as was the distance—took nearly two hours to effect.
Journeying homewards by the old path it felt light in comparison, however much we were fatigued, but the want of water was indeed felt, nor did a frequent application to the brandy bottle give relief to your friend, though it had the wished for effect with his companion. At length reaching the water among the rocks, we almost deluged our parched frames, and to our great joy found the lost cocoa nut, which was swallowed with avidity. A single bunch of the wild
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plantain was here seen, but after the trouble of cutting down the tree, the fruit was so strong and coarse as not to be eatable. Ginger and Turmeric were growing in abundance; the latter indeed, is to be met in most parts of the Island, and is used by the natives as a yellow dye.
The moon assisted us to the post late in the evening after having lost our way several times. Nor, was the good supper and Yava no pretaney prepared for us by our shipmates, at all unwelcome, yet could we have dispensed with the laughter occasioned by our disasters.
Though we did not reach Otoos Horns, it was ascertained that the Matavai was supplied by numberless falls of water from this mountain, which serpentining amid the woods had a picturesque appearance.
Many Fern trees, some above twenty feet in height, were in great beauty on the mountains; Yava was also observed, appearing to thrive best in a high situation.
4th. Obereroah, mother of the King regent, this morning paid her first visit to Captain Bligh. The old Lady was so very corpulent it was necessary to hoist her on board in a chair. She no sooner reached the Cabin than a very curious scene took place. To express her happiness at meeting Captain Bligh she threw herself on the floor – weeping bitterly in loud lamentations. Her whole suite soon caught the sad infection, and it was a full hour before this woeful ceremony closed; when the Queen Dowager and her Court regained their wonted cheerfulness,
visiting our diffirent cabins, where they asked for beads and other articles.
On her receiving a present from one of my messmates, she very graciously begged his temporary acceptance of one of her "maids of honour." He was ever well bred, and incapable of giving offence, so that, however his philosophic disposition resisted it, the power was denied him of refusing the friendly offer of Obereroah.
The Queen Dowager appeared above sixty, yet with as find a set of teeth as can be imagined. The teeth indeed of these people are in general desirably white and regular; perhaps the latter quality is occasioned by their mouths being larger than most europeans, which I am disposed to believe, arises from the custom of extending and distorting it when dancing the Heeva. The quantity of vegetable diet used, no doubt preserves their colour while it gives a purity to the breath, rarely to met with where too much animal food is taken into the stomach. After meals they seldom fail thoroughly washing their mouths.
In the evening Obereroah was lowered into her canoe and went on shore her suite being reduced by the aforesaid "maid of honour"—which no doubt—was it to reach the ears of many bearing the same rank in our red book, a degree of indignation would be felt at the frailty of the Otahytean Court.
A scarcity of cocoa nuts was observed about this time in the public stock, and other provisions were brought in but slowly. The eager demand for shells,
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ornaments and other curiosities, however publicly discouraged, occasioned this scarcity. Some petty thefts were committed by the natives, on board, as well as at the Post, to check which Captain Bligh caused one man taken in the act of stealing a handkerchief to be punished. After receiving a dozen lashes which he seemed to heed but little, he jumped over board and swam on shore with perfect indiffirence.
Nothing was yet heard respecting the Matildas money. It had most probably been dispersed about the Island, as one of the officers had recently purchased two dollars for a knife from a native whom he met in the woods.
The Matavaian district was now rapidly encreasing with its old inhabitants and many new houses were erected. Tupira however, still kept at Whapiano with the arms.
5th. The whole Court remained on board nearly the whole day, it might indeed been said, from the length and frequency of their visits that they were of our own family.
My Tayo brought me a present of plaited human hair, about the thickness of a double thread and [blank] yards in length. It is worn by the women as an ornament round the head in the manner of a turban, and called Tamow. The superior sort of dancing girls generally decorate themselves with it.
This was the only present brought to me by Edeea for a considerable time, which occasioned our being rather on cool terms. She had reproved me for not being more bountiful, which in some
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measure was a true charge, but as I wanted some articles difficult to be procured in the neighbourhood of Matavai I still thought it politic to withold any gifts until she brought them, at the same time making as great a display of my riches as possible, which had the desired effect of soon placing me in possession of a war mat (Tawmey) and some other curiosities.
To get such kind of articles there was no little difficulty, from the eagerness with which we sought them, and from the introduction of european implements having rendered many of them nearly useless; the stone adzes in particular, nor have I a doubt but that nine tenths of those brought home in the Providence were purposely made for sale. Though very profitable to them, the natives laughed at the avidity with which we coveted all their household and other goods,. Yet have they at Otahytey their Collectors, and their cabinets of European curiosities, and you will hardly credit it, that, old Hammaneminhay, the High Priest, was in possession of a volume of the "Statutes at large," which he procured from a vessel that had touched at the Island, on which he placed as much value as some among us do, on a brass Otho, a petrified periwinkle, or even (as you and I once once [sic] heard a showman say) a "stuffed baboon from the mines of Golconda."
In the evening, many of the natives were fishing with rod, and nearly up to their shoulders in the water; to the left one a small basket is attached to put the fish in,
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of which numbers were taken daily this way. A small seine managed by two men was also in use, but with less success.
6th. Orepaia was on board at early day bringing the pistols that had been stolen in the mountains. He said that his brother Whidooah intercepted the thief at Whapiano when making his way to Teairaboo, the windward peninsula of the island. It was more than probable the pistols had been carried to Orepaia, but that the apprehension of Captain Blighs displeasure, in the event of a discovery, had induced him to return them, and that the story of the thief being taken by his brother was a fabrication; the more so, as in some recent transactions Orepaias veracity had been doubted. I would not however help making some acknowledgement for his exertions, which he at first declined, but a little perswasion soon conquered this delicacy. He was loud in condemning the thief, calling him a bad man, (Eno de Tata)
Ena Madua, his wife, felt amazingly jealous of him, and spoke this day in angry but affectionate terms of his incontinence. It was that meretricious "Queen" Whyhereddy, who tempted Orepaia to wander from his own home. Of this I had occular demonstration, yet did it seem charitable to aim at perswading this neglected wife that her fears were groundless; but, it was in vain, the "green eyed monster" had taken too strong a hold.
In return for a present, Edeea sent me an amazing large hog, with a
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quantity of fruit, and a promise of cloth. The music of these cloven footed animals was no little annoyance to the nerves of your humble servant. To prevent irregularity, trade was only allowed to take place on one side of the ship, and this, unfortunately was where my six foot apartment was situated, so that, from the "rising of the sun 'till the going down of the same" did the ceaseless lamentations of these poor half strangled grunters din my ears, nor without an apprehension of their finding passage through the port in their struggles, while dragging up the side from the canoes.
Boa (a hog)—(Waheeney, a woman, must not be forgotten) seems to be one of the first words our countrymen understand. It is indeed the staple commodity of the Island; and what I verily believe these good people think, brings us among them. Both indeed, have been said—and perhaps with great truth—to be of a very delicate flavour. Yet so affectionate were the terms, some within the sides of the Providence had been on, with the latter of these good articles, they were sorely lamenting they had not confined their researches to the former.
This day I had again the honor of being a spectator to the cramming of Pomaurey.
Our host Tarro paid a visit to my cabin and had his hair powdered, which he always made a practice of doing when on board. Tarro is of the Eareoye Society, of which you have heard a great deal. I readily confess myself unacquainted with its customs; indeed, with scarcely any knowledge of the language, I am precluded speaking confidently of any of their mysterious ceremonies.
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What has fallen under my own eye it is no arrogance to repeat, but giving an elaborate account merely from conversation with an indian whose tongue I do not understand, had better be witheld. In one circumstance, that of the Eareoyes frequently destroying their children the moment of their birth, all accounts agreed, nor could we at all perswade them of the inhumanity of it. It was good, (miti) they said, and the custom of the Island. And the same of the horrid practice of sacrificing their countrymen on various occasions.
Three or four of such oblations to their gods, were made during our stay, but without any of us being present om the occasion. It is said that the most worthless in society are fixed on, and however horrible the custom, from ignorance and superstition, some consideration and humanity is observed in the manner of their death, being knocked privately on the head without the least apprehension being entertained of it. The corpse of one of these poor wretches recently killed was shown me. It was in a long basket made of Cocoa nut leaves, in shape resembling a hammock and suspended in the same way to the lateral branch of a tree, but a full mile from any Morai or place of religious observance.
7th. A message came from Tupira importing that, if Captain Bligh would send for the Matildas money it should be given up. Mr. Norris in consequence, and some of her crew, proceeded to Whapiano with instructions to
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first secure the money, and then request the arms. The Messenger acquainted us that Tupira had retreated to the Whapiano mountains, an attempt having been made by Whydooah to secure him.
8th. While at dinner in the ward room a native took the opportunity of stealing my sheets through the port. Mideedee who was upon deck, observing a canoe paddling on shore with unusual exertion suspecting something wrong, pursued and overtook her just as she reached the beach. The thief offered to share the booty, but this worthy Islander was not to be corrupted, and being the most powerful man brought the sheets back.
9th. Mr. Norris returned with the major part of the money. The remainder, Tupira informed him, was a long way distant in possession of another person.
This persevering Chief was found a long way up the Whapiano surrounded by about an hundred of his faithful Matavaians. It was in vain, he said, to expect the muskets as with his life he would only yield them, he repeated as he had before, that, in case of an attack he would retreat to a narrow pass in the mountains and defend it until his ammunition was expended. He reprobated in contemptuous terms the pusilanimous conduct of his brother who had deserted him and was at Matavai with the females of his family, who not withstanding the quarrel had remained unmolested by the Oparreans. It appeared that one of Tupira's party had treacherously deserted, giving Whydooah intiligence of his retreat, who under shelter of a dark night made the unsuccessful attempt before mentioned.
His five "stand of arms" were constantly kept under
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his bed; that is, his sleeping mat.
10th. Early in the morning I was awakened by my Tayo, who, according to her promise, had brought me a war mat (Tawmey).
In the afternoon Pomaurey begged permission to take a nap on my bed. He had once before enjoyed that privilege, but unfortunately left two of his attendants behind, which my bed maker (the officers in the Providence, that it might not weaken the crew had no established servants) found in solemn march upon the pillow, and, to use his own expression, swore they came from the head of his Majesty by "their colour." Captain Bligh though truly friendly to the Chiefs, kept them in such excellent order that they never took any liberties with him, by which means he enjoyed some degree of retirement. However fraught with danger, it was not in my power to refuse Pomaurey the boon he asked.
Such were the fears of a trembling unmellowed damsel as the sun sunk behind the distant hills and the hour of dedition approached, that, unequal to the contest she leaped into the briny element and reached the plain, undeprived of that—she was urged on board—to lose. Thine own friends my good girl with an Eree no pretaney, (an English chief) had formed a compact against thee. Hadst thou come free and uncontrolled, like many others who sought the Providence for English finery I might have felt for the disappointment of him, who with meretricious longing, coveted thy unsapped charms.
11th. Preparations were making at this time by Orepaia and other Chiefs for an expedition
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to Paparra on the South West part of the Island. The Chiefs of this district were in possession of a few fire arms, and an attempt to get them by stratagem was to be made by Orepaia, by his going round laden with presents that no suspicion might be entertained of his intentions. Of this he made no mystery to his English friends, attaching no dishonour to such a proceeding.
The Drummer was this day punished, in the presence of a number of the Islanders, for forgetting, in his amours, that he was under the care of our messmate the Doctor. The beater of parchment perhaps thought retaliation no crime and that as the Otahytean fair ones had given him a warm token of remembrance; he had a right to return it "in kind." But whether he reasoned so or not, the dozen he received was properly and justly inflicted. With that tenderness inseperable from them the natives pitied his sufferings but acknowledged that he deserved punishment.
In the evening there was a more crowded Heeva than usual. Among the strange customs of the Island may be mentioned that, of the names of things and persons being frequently altered, and which has occasioned great perplexity in the accounts given at diffirent periods of these people.
The Dancers (Heevas) about this time were called Hoopaowpa, some person of consequence having taken the former name. Orepaia had changed his name to Aboobo (tomorrow). The King regent Pomaurey, when Captain Bligh was at the Island in the Bounty in 1789, bore the name
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of Tinah, and at a former period it was Otoo. And here it may be remarked that the engraving of him in Captain Cooks second voyage is an uncommon strong resemblance, however the lapse of time may have altered his features. Hitherto the young King has only been known by the name of Otoo his fathers former one. In future visits to the Island, it is probable we may find it changed. His Grandfather Otow, in 1773, was called E-Happai.
My pen is frequently obliged to touch on subjects which the purity of him who guides it, would rather avoid, yet, this would be witholding from you some simple facts strongly indicative of the manners of these Islanders.
Among other good things required for the passage home, were some kids. Assistance from the shore was necessary on the occasion as our Nannettes were living in a state of celibacy. If a congregation of the Otahytean fair did not withdraw from the consummation of their nuptials, habit must acquit them of indelicacy. These are scenes which the english maiden has been taught to close her eyelids on, the uninstructed perry peery (Virgin) of this Isle views with indiffirence. Yet, if she is familiar with that, doubtless as well concealed from her, she owes not her knowledge to aught but simple nature. That, which is acquired under the broad shelter of art, or affected mystery, belongs not to the Otahytean.
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There was a fresh trade wind outside the Dolphin reef, though it continued calm all day in Matavai bay.
The departure of the chiefs for Paparra gave us considerable relief; it is true, nothing could be more cheerful and amiable than their demeanour, but the ship was so constantly crowded with them that little rest was allowed us.
In the morning a woman came on board with her child, whose unfortunate father was a mutineer in the Bounty, and had been taken by Captain Edwards of the Pandora, with many others, about a twelvemonth before. There were on the Island three or four children of this description, besides one belonging to Brown, a man left by Captain Cox of the Mercury Brig in 17[89]. Brown it seems left Otahytey in the Pandora.
The mother of the child was sensible of the fate that awaited the unhappy mutineer, yet without expressing much sorrow on the occasion, so little does serious reflection intrude on their thoughtless disposition. An Otahytean may be tenderly affected for a short period, but it would appear that, no circumstance whatever is capable of fixing a lasting impression on the mind.
As the children of the mutineers have been mentioned, an enquiry naturally follows, why, after the many visits to the Island, more children are not to be seen partaking of european blood. It is certainly a fact that, until recently, not a single instance has been noticed, from the time of Messieurs Wallis and Bouganville in 1767 and 1768. The fathers of the children brought to the Providence resided on the Island above a twelve month
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and were individually attached to the mothers, which may account for the children being born, and yet, no proof, I believe has reached us of the females, under any circumstances, using means to promote abortion. The Aereoye Society it is known destroy their children instantly on their birth without the least reproach or stigma attending it. This may have been the case with the children of the casual visitors to the Island, from the conviction of the mothers that they were left fatherless on the departure of the ship to which such father belonged; whereas it most likely was not calculated on by such women as had connected themselves with the mutineers of the Bounty. Indeed, had the mothers felt any disposition to destroy the children of the latter, no European father—it is to be believed—could have consented to it.
In going to an Island Key in the evening to the eastward, vast numbers of the natives were on it collecting sea Eggs and diffirent shell fish for food.
Having the engravings to Captain Cook voyage on board, they were shewn to Pomaurey, but the Sea Horses on the coast of Kamshatchka was what alone interested him. He had some days before seen some curious articles, only to be purchased at the Chinese market, but he was not satisfied until his younger wife Whyhereddy was allowed a similar inspection, which, to quiet his importunity, was granted.
About midnight we were alarmed by a noise in the water occasioned by a native who had stolen the sheets from off our premier Bond. Two muskets were fired over him, in
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the hope he would return, but such was his enterprise and activity in the water, he effected his escape, notwithstanding three boats were in pursuit.
A native who had been troublesome and thrown stones at the watering party was punished with three dozen lashes, with the entire approbation of the Chiefs. He seemed little concerned either as to the pain or disgrace of the punishment.
Vast numbers of Cavallies were taken in the seine some above twenty pounds weight. The South part of the bay was found to be the most productive for fishing, close to the eastward of the heads of Tarra (on One Tree hill) particularly after rain.
20th. In consequence of the insult offered a few days before, I was sent this morning in the watering boat, a duty which had hitherto been conducted by a petty officer. The natives were perfectly civil and peaceable., Owing to some heavy rain that had recently fallen, the banks of the Matavai were over flowing, and the sandy istmhus seperating it from the East part of the bay, not above sixty yards across, through which the sea had perforated so as to render the water brackish at the usual filling place, obliging us to go farther up the stream with our casks.
Edeea returned from the Paparra expedition with the common present of a quantity of cloth. The major part of the chiefs still remained there, with the hope of getting the fire arms.
The supply of hogs was very confined, so that we were under the necessity of sending to Oparrey and
purchasing for the daily expenditure, a hatchet being required for a moderate sized one. Yet was the Island
teeming with them.
Chapter 4 Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 6