Chapter 2 Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 4
Revised Jun 9 2021
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Leave Table bay – Quality of the vessels – Health of the crews – Cheering – Capt. Bligh Master with Captain Cook – Albatrosses &c – Quaker birds – Brodie stoves in Cockpits – Sweet wort – Island St. Paul – Seals seen – Anchor in Adventure Bay Van Diemans land – Wooding and watering parties – Native hut – Coarse Pearls – Trout – One of the crew of the Assistant missing – Maria Islands – Some account of Adventure bay – An apple tree – Large bones – Forrest trees – Fires – Seeds planted – Fowls left – Short interview with the natives – Kangoroo – Birds – Black Swans – Gannets – Fish – Oysters – Leave Adventure bay – Rock weed – Good look out – Porpoise liver – Seal – Whales – Pass Southward of New Zeeland – Islands seen by Capt. Bligh in the Bounty in 1788 – Crew healthy – Great attention to it – red tailed Tropic birds – Cockroaches – Eastern limit reached – Discover a low Island – No signs of inhabitants – Its Latitude well fixed – Such Islands truly dangerous to the Navigator – How formed general opinion – Great depth of the sea close to them
85 1791 December
22d. It was not until this day that we took leave of the last European settlement with which the vessels were to have intercourse for nearly a twelvemonth. At this port of plenty the crews had been liberally supplied with every kind of refreshment, and it might have been truly said that they were beginning the voyage anew, with the advantage of being better known to each other. A few passing squalls had taken place within board as well as without, but by clewing up in time, without any serious mischief. They happen every where, as well on "Terra Firma"; as on the Quarter deck of a ship.
The Qualities of the Providence and her Assistant were found equal to what had been expected, and their crews, many of whom had not sailed beyond the mouth of the Thames, were now becoming familiar to the cares of a distant voyage. The good mutton and abundance of vegetables this promontory affords, gave an equal glow of health to their countenances as when they quitted their native Isle. Yet to this Isle did we take a retrospect, nor without the hopes of returning to it, but the satisfaction we anticipated in visiting more remote ones banished every sorrowful thought. For myself James, I began to feel at home in the charge of a watch, nor without considering my appointment to the Providence as a very flattering one particularly as she was the first ship in which I made my debut as a commissioned officer. In her commander I had to encounter the quickest sailors eye, guided by a thorough knowledge of every branch of the profession necessary on such a voyage. He had been Master with the persevering Cook in his last voyage in 1776 and, as has been already noticed, commanded the Bounty Armed Ship when the first
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attempt was made to convey the Bread fruit Tree to the West Indies. It is easy of belief that on first joining a man of such experience, my own youth and inferiority were rather busy visitors. They were, but we had by this time crossed the equinoctial, and were about doubling the Cape together, and I had courage to believe that, my Captain was not disatisfied with me. Of this surely enough—even to you.
Accompanied by our little Consort, in the afternoon we left the bay. As we passed them, our cheers were returned by the Waarzaamheid and Swan Sloop; the Fort observing the same to our departing salute.
The custom of cheering was once more observed among us than it is now. There is in it something more than commonly affecting. Tis saying we greet you on you safe return, or may success attend your voyage. Such is the language of the thrice repeated cordial cheer.
24th. We this day lost sight of the African coast. Our Christmas was passed, perhaps with as much jollity as if on dry land. The place where is noted, which I have been in the habit of doing, and mean to in future. Already it tells what a wanderer your brother has been. What he may be, will depend on the direction of a superior Power.
28th. In the morning a ship was seen standing to the South East. Our old friends the Albatrosses, Sheerwaters, and Silver birds, particularly the latter, were about us in numbers. It is about the size of a pigeon and of the Petterel tribe, the plumage of the belly and under part of the wings of a shining white colour. They never came under my observation in any part of the ocean but South of the Cape.
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29th. The ship still in sight, apparently a dutch Indiaman bound to Batavia that left Table Bay with the Providence. Vessels bound to Batavia or China, deem it prudent to stand well to the Southward where they generally meet westerly winds. In May 1789 I remember being obliged from easterly winds to reach as far as 42..30 South where the weather was thick and unpleasant, the Thermometer falling to 56°, Longitude 34° East—Variation of the Compass 26° Westerly.
88 1792 January From the Cape towards Van Diemans Land
8th. It being a moderate day Mr. Portlock came on board giving a flattering account of the behaviour of his little Brig during the late boisterous weather. Some Sea birds of a light brown colour similar in their flight to the Albatross but not so large, were about us. Our Southern seamen called them Quaker birds. The Latd. at Noon was observed in 37°30 South Longitude by account 49..25 East The Thermometer 57°.
17th. The wind continued between the North West and South West, generally blowing strong, accompanied by damp unsettled weather, to avoid the bad effects of which became Captain Blighs study. A good fire was constantly kept in the galley throughout the night and every care and precaution used to keep the ship dry. Brodie Stoves were lighted in both Cockpits the whole day.
In addition to the many good articles of food given to the people, sweet wort was issued every fore noon. There is one word an English sailor so cordially hates
89 1792 January Island of St. Paul
as innovation when this salutary beverage was first introduced, it was not much relished by them. To set an example the officers brought their mugs on deck, drinking the portion allowed us. For a few days every man in the ship sought it with avidity, and I do assure you that, I looked for my pint of wort every forenoon with nearly as much desire as for the same quantity of Teneriffe wine after dinner. The Latd. was observed in 39..00 South. Longd. by acct. 75°..33 Et. Ther° 65° Variation of the Compass 20°.24 Westy.
A little after noon the Island of St. Paul was seen in the NNE, three or four Leagues distant. The Lunar observations and Time Keepers fix it (about) 77°..30′ East Longitude. The bearings and Meridian observation, the Latitude (about) 38..50 South. Two Islands are noticed in most Charts which in fact is the case. The Southern one was seen by the Providence. Mortimer in the brig Mercury in the month of [blank][May] 179 [1789] says the Northern one [blank][Amsterdam] bore from the other NNE seventeen leagues distant. Sailing past the South side of St. Pauls at six or seven miles from it, a conical rock was observed off the eastern point. It is said that there is an anchorage round this point, but it can hardly be a secure one. The Island is moderately high and about three leagues in circuit, quite destitute of trees and with scarcely the appearance of verdure in any part. These Islands are situated so much in the track of vessels bound by the way of the Cape for New Holland, that it would appear prudent to make them, for a fresh departure, particularly when the whole dependance is placed on the "Dead Reckoning." The Island St. Paul is sufficiently high to be seen even in the night
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nor, from the nature of its shores, are hidden dangers to be expected. Several Seals were seen in the course of the day. It never fell under my observation meeting these animals but in the neighbourhood of land.
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3d. The sun rose fiery and full of threats. At Noon it blew a strong gale from the North West. The Latitude by Account 41°..43′ South. Longitude by Account 126..35′ The Thermometer 62°. Variation of the Compass in the afternoon 4° 29 Wt. Rock weed was seen.
5th. Wind from the Westward. Latde. Observed 43°.46′Squall Longitude ″ Account 133..18 East. Thermometer 60°. Variation of the Compass in the [blank] 00°.14′ Easty.
8th. At day light the Coast of Van Diemans Land was seen from EbN to NNW, 4 or 5 leagues distant. At Noon the Latitude was observed in 43°..46′ South, when the South Cape bore N34°Et. [blank] leagues distant. Eddystone and Savilly Islands S65°E [blank] leagues. Thermometer 63°.
9th. In the morning both vessels were safely anchored in Adventure bay in nine fathoms. After mooring, Penguin Island bore N64°Et. Cape Frederick Henry N25E. Distant from the nearest shore about half a mile.
The Land about the South West Cap is hilly and more free from wood than to the Eastward. From the inequality of the line of coast it is more than probable secure anchorage may
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be found, but this, from her distance, was not determined by the Providence. The surf in general broke high, but in some places it appeared practicable for boats to land.
Shortly after rounding Fluted Cape, a high bluff land cloathed with trees to the summit, except where it terminates towards the sea in a perpendicular rock appearing like closely connected columns, we passed Penguin Island, which forms the Eastern part of Adventure bay. This small Island is close to the Main land, and at most times, it is easy to walk across among the rocks above water. The soil on the Island is good, producing plenty of grass.
The watering and wooding parties were now formed, the former under the direction of poor Guthrie, the latter falling to your humble Servant. The recollection of some happy days passed with my late friend on this uncultivated shore, gives birth to the most pleasing sensations, but they are embittered in the melancholy truth that, he is now, no more. Our posts were about half a mile apart, but we always met at the hour of dinner in a hut of the natives contiguous to a stream at which we watered most part of the time. Though we did not "fare sumptuously every day," it was with hearty uncontaminated appetites, the chief viands being, from the destruction of our fowling pieces, and the produce of the sea shore. Close to the wigwam abundance of small trout were taken with hook and line, so that there was no apprehension of famine. A parrot, or a Sea Gull was indeed sometimes thrown into the iron pot, and relished with as great a [gout?] as if either had been a woodcock; but there was always a standing dish of muscles, and
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however an opposite opinion prevails, no bad effects ever arose from eating them. It was to the ci-devant [former] tenants of our mansion we were indebted for feasting on them without apprehension, numbers of the shells, the remnant of their meals being scattered about. Self preservation is most probably as strong in the native of Van Diemans Land as in the most refined European, and it was the sight of these shells which first gave us courage to try them. It is remarkable of the Adventure Bay muscles that they contain in general, numbers of a small coarse kind of pearl.
You must not doubt what has been said about Trout fishing in the distant spot. They rose with more eagerness than was ever the case with us, at Guys hole, Dowse's hatches or even Bowles's Broad; but not one reached a quarter of a pound weight so that there was no sport, as at your grandfathers, in playing them.
21st. Several parties were sent in the morning to beat the woods in search of one of the Assistants people who had deserted his boat. Throughout the previous night a light had been kept at the Mast head and guns fired at intervals, supposing he had lost himself. After some time he was discovered by Pearce concealed in such a manner as left no doubt it was his intention for the vessels to proceed without him. He assigned as a reason for his absence being unjustly accused of the theft, which determined his taking this desperate step. The poor wretch must in all probability have soon perished, not having the smallest portion of food with him, or
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any thing to produce a fire with. When taken, he declared he perferred the risk of starving in this distant country, or meeting its natives, to remaining on board under such an accusation. Charity would encourage us to believe him innocent. The Thermometer 60½°. In the evening it being calm the vessels were towed farther out.
22d. We weighed in the morning and stood alongshore to the northward with the hope of discovering the entrance of Frederick Henry bay, which bay was easily seen from the hills near our anchorage, but without our being able to decide the access to it. After in vain for several miles, looking for an entrance on the eastern side, the vessels were hauled off shore, the south point of the Maria Islands bearing East two or three leagues distant, Cape Frederick Henry WSW about as far. Our soundings while coasting it to the Northward [blank]
The Maria Islands appeared more free from wood than the main land. Smoke being seen proved their being inhabited. It is to be regretted that the Channel between them and Van Diemans Land has not been correctly surveyed. In the short distance the Providence stood to the northward of Adventure bay, little was effected. Should a ship remain any considerable time in the above bay her boats might be advantageously employed for this purpose, taking care to arm the crews, as we are almost wholly ignorant of the habits and disposition of the natives.
In pressing the vessels to weather Cape Pillar, the south part of the Maria Islands, the Assistant carried away her Fore Yard, which occasioned our again anchoring in Adventure Bay to repair the damage.
{Marginal note:]
What we considered Frederick Henry bay, in February 1792 was soon after explored in May 1792 and
named D'Entrecasteaux's Channel. We dined (F G Bond, G T and others) at the red mark ⬤. Labillardiere said
"it is seperated from Adventure Bay by a narrow strip of land not more than 200 [paces?] at its greatest [?]"
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23d. Before weighing, a good meridian observation gave the Latitude in 43°..22′..15″ South when Penguin Island bore N85°Et. 1½ mile. Cape Frederick Henry N24°E, and the East part of the Table Land, a long way distant, the summit of which was of a light colour, or covered with Snow, N18°W. This appearance of snow had not been noticed before.
Adventure Bay may certainly be considered as a convenient place for vessels bound to the Pacific Ocean, to touch at for wood and water. It is only exposed to winds from the North East quarter, but the Maria Islands being in that direction, at the distance of only six or seven leagues, no very heavy sea is to be apprehended. The East part of the bay is most free from Surf and there, and on Penguin Island, the only good grass is to be procured. Wood and water, are to be found in almost every part.
From Penguin Island to a low isthmus, not half a mile in breadth, dividing Adventure from Frederick Henry bay, is six or seven miles to the northward, the coast taking a winding direction, in some parts sandy, in others craggy and nearly impassable. Excepting some low land on the south part of the bay (behind which at about the distance of half a mile is a brackish lagoon,) and the istmhus before mentioned, the country is hilly, and richly clothed in ½ wood. Some of the trees are of great height and magnitude. One not far from the beach measured twenty nine feet in circumference. These large trees are all of the same kind, and do not branch off till at more than half their height. The bark is
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of a very light colour. It bears a long narrow leaf and the ground was plenteously strewed with the fruit; or seed, something in the form of a button but not edible. The wood being tough and close grained, in some degree like the American hickery, it probably might answer for building. For masts and yards the Carpenter deemed it too heavy. There are a variety of other trees; one was observed of the Fir kind, the wood of a deep mahogany colour. The fern tree was among the number. The soil in general is light and sandy, but on the slope of some of the hills, a fine dark mould, which is also the case on Penguin Island. In these spots the trees are not so numerous, and they are free from underwood.
On the East part of the bay there was one of several apple trees remaining which were planted by Captain Bligh in 1788 when the Bounty touched at Adventure bay; it was in a healthy state but had not much encreased in size; the others probably had been consumed by fire, no traces of them being discoverable.
In most of the valleys small streams find a passage to the bay. The largest where Guthrie was encamped (Resolution river) was not more than ten or twelve feet in breadth. Its source was not ascertained, but that of a small tributary stream was found gushing from a rock. Numbers of small trout were in all of them.
The wigwam where we messed on the banks of the Resolution, has been noticed, but without a description. It was eight feet wide, and half as much in height at the entrance, which extended nearly across, being constructed with branches of trees stuck in the ground
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and fastened at the smaller ends with coarse grass; over these rafters, pieces of bark from the large tree was placed in the manner of tiles or shingles. Wretched as such a habitation may appear, it sheltered us from many a "pelting of the pitiless storm," and hot ray of the sun. It had not been long deserted, the remains of native cookery being still fresh. Muscles have been before mentioned, the bones of animals were also strewed about, which were conjectured to be those of the Kangoroo. In another hut the vertebral ones of some large fish or animal were found; these from their magnitude were probably of the Whale, or Grampus. Some hard white stone wrapped up carefully in soft bark, made us suspect they were the materials by which the natives produced fire, but our efforts to effect it with them were fruitless. An observation or two may here by hazarded on what has been advanced by some visitors to this country, that its wretched inhabitants take up their residence in the trunks of trees, hollowed out with fire for that purpose. I certainly met with burnt trees in our walks, in the tracks of the natives, as well as in the mountains where no vestige appeared of their ever having been; but it is difficult to believe that the most barbarous savage would allow indolence so much to operate on him as to live in a hold not capable of containing more than two or three, and those not with ease, when in a short hour, from its simplicity, he could erect a comparatively comfortable habitation. Rather would it seem that where the trees have the appearance
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spoken of fires have been kindled for the temporary purpose of cooking. Indeed in our shooting parties the trunks of the Trees against which our parrots had been grilled, exhibited on the succeeding day one of these supposed habitations. Yet, this leaves us at a loss how to account for those in the higher grounds, where there is no appearance of human foot having reached. But many sapient heads have been puzzled about a less knotty point that this. Perhaps at a former period the hills were more resorted to.
Near a stream on the south part of the bay Captain Bligh planted some water cress seed, with an inscription on a tree near, to point out the spot. Some Quince, Strawberry, fig, and pomegranate plants, were also left. A fine Cock with two hens were turned into the woods, he seemed to exult in his consequence and freedom, but we lamented the probability of their being destroyed by the natives. Captain Cook left a boat and saw in the year 1777, but there was no appearance of an encrease from them. On sending for our goats to Penguin Island, where they had been to browse during our stay, a she one was missing. At low water she had most likely found her way over the rocks to the main Land.
Though smoke was frequently seen no distance to the Northward, but one slight view was gained of the natives. Some of the officers came suddenly on a party of about twenty, but except one young man who remained a few minutes, they instantly decamped. In the short interview with this man he was persuaded to take dome bread, but his terror was so great that he soon soon [sic] followed his countrymen. Close where they were discovered
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was the skeleton of a new wigwam with two Kangoroo skins in it, and some short spears, sharp at one end and hardened by fire. Hasty as was the view of these wretched savages, it did not appear that either sex were quite naked, the skin of an animal being thrown loosely over the shoulders, but seemingly more to protect them from the weather than from any sense of decency. The beards of the men were not in any degree removed. In the group was a child at its mother breast. These are the few particulars collected respecting them. Under the hope of a more satisfactory interview, the skins were left in the wigwam, but in this we were much disappointed. No kind of boat or Canoe was observed about the coast.
The only animals seen were the Kangoroo, and a kind of Sloth, about the size of a roasting pig, with a proboscis two or three inches in length. On the back were short quills like those of the Porcupine. This animal was roasted and found of a delicate flavour. The Kangoroos were so rapid in their motions they escaped all our guns.
Of Birds, there are a great variety, both land and aquatic. Among the former several kind of parrots and hawks, some of the first, full as large as the Mackaw. A parrot in a wild state was quite a novelty, nor until there was "ocular demonstration of it" could I suppose their flight was so rapid. I speak particularly of a small kind, of which there are abundance in these woods. When convocated on a high tree a "confusion of tongues" frequently attracted our attention. A few of the
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smaller birds are singularly beautiful in their plumage and not without a pleasing note. They are particularly shy of the approach of man, from which it is fair to infer that they form a part of the sustenance of the Natives. Partridges were reported to have been seen by some of the officers, but they did not come within my own observation. Nor, (though some are introduced in the drawings) am I able to say more respecting black Swans. In the Lagoon were wild ducks, and on the shores of the bay, Gulls, Gannets, and a variety of sand plover. The Gannet in pursuit of its prey I have observed frequently in this bay, and with astonishment at its wonderfully clear sight and celerity so fatal to the finny tribe. When striking at a fish from an amazing height this bird descends with such force as to be wholly immersed for nearly a minute ere rising with its prey to the surface, which having swallowed, it again ranges aloft with a watchful eye in pursuit of more. It would seem that the Gannet is common on most coasts not near the tropics. One of my messmates here, tell a story of a wag who was with him in the Hind, respecting one of these birds which he had procured from the Isle of Bas near the mouth of the Firth of Forth. The Gannet is beautifully marked yellow on the head; this induced him to dub it a Golden Phoenix; and meeting with a curious admirer of ornithology, he with much reluctance was persuaded to part with it for a crown. The purchaser of the Golden Phoenix wishing much to know the qualities of his bird requested to know if it could walk quick? "If your honour will but try," he replied, "see how soon you will be satisfied, he can walk as well as I, and fly much
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"better." The bird took no time for exhibiting the first qualification, but trusting to its wings was not long in finding a way from Leith to the Isle Bas, leaving the Collector poorer by five shillings, which was soon spent among the Hinds boats crew, nor without their joyfully boasting how they had gulled the landsman.
The Seine was frequently hauled, and at times with considerable success. The fish taken were chiefly Spanish Mackaral, besides many others unknown to us. One kind the seamen called Elephant fish from their having a long snout like that animal. With hook and line a very delicate sort of Rock Cod were caught in the bay, and it is probable that the large kind of Cod would be found in deeper water as the Latitude does not vary much from that of some of the fishing banks on the coast of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. The same observation perhaps applies to Salmon, but while the Providence was at Van Diemans land it was not ascertained. The Dog fish were so numerous as to be very troublesome to the lines. Several Seals were seen. The wooding party killed snakes of diffirent kinds, but without ascertaining whether their bite was poisonous or not, nor was it judged prudent to make any personal experiments on such a question. A large kind of Lizard seeming to partake somewhat of the West India (Guana) was killed; its length about a foot but very thick in proportion and bearing a disgusting appearance.
The Sea coast abounded with a variety of shell fish, most of which are eaten by the natives. In Frederick Henry bay are some fine
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oyster banks, perfectly dry at low tide. A very beautiful large kind of limpet, to seamen known by the name of Ear shell, was found adhering to the rocks under water. The shells of lobsters were skewed about, contiguous to where fires had been kindled.
Where the rocks did not admit of walking along the shore the natives, a little distance in the woods had beaten a tolerable path, but many large trees having fallen across it, our progress was but slow, nor was it unfrequent that they served as bridges fifty or sixty feet in length, and eight or ten high, on which our feet found but a slippery foundation. In no part did these paths take a direction to the interior; from which circumstance it may be concluded that the natives dwell near the Sea shore; indeed, in confirmation, it may be remarked that, all the wigwams were but a short distance from the bay.
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23d. We now took leave of Van Diemans Land, shaping a Course to pass Southward of New Zealand.
28th. Rock weed was seen, and various kind of sea fowl, indeed the latter had been daily observed after leaving Adventure bay. The Latitude at Noon was 47°..27′ South Longitude by Account 159°..45′Et. Ther° 57°. It was now Captain Blighs custom every evening to reduce the sail so as to be able to haul by the wind in case of any sudden alarm. As well as in the day times, a man was constantly looking out all night at the Fore topmast head.
1st. Continued to see rock weed. A porpoise was struck with the harpoon. Some of the Liver was fried – prejudice certainly intruded not a little, or it might have passed for that of a hog.
2d. A Seal was seen in the morning, and much rock weed. Whales and porpoises were playing around the ship. The wind continued from the Westward. At noon the Latitude was observed in 49..32 South, Longitude by Account 168°..47′ East, which made us from the South Cape of New Zealand S17° East thirty five Leagues distant. The Thermometer 55°. As Rock weed has been noticed, I can not help remarking that it never came within my knowledge to observe it, but in the neighbourhood of Land; and the same of Tangle weed. The appearance of either, certainly ought to teach a seaman the necessity of a good look out. Indeed, except
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what is generally called Gulph weed (from its being supposed to come from the Gulph of Florida). I never met any kind, at a considerable distance from the shore.
4th. Wind from the WSW, with sharp squally and thick gloomy weather as the day opened. It veered to the SbE, a very cold air accompanying it. At noon it was again from the SW quarter. Soon after, the vessels were hauled to the NE, and a very good look out kept for some rocky Islands discovered by Captain Bligh on the Bounty, in September 1788.
7th. The weather was squally, wind from the SSW and SW. A hail storm early in the morning lowered the quick silver in the Thermometer to 45°. Latitude at Noon 47..03 South, Longitude by Account 187°..21′ East.
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24th. The wind and weather continued variable though a sensible difference was felt in the temperature of the air, the Thermometer at noon being 61°. Latd. observed 36°..42′ South Longitude by Account 218°..34′ East. Scarcely an Albatross or any of the aquatic birds of a colder region were to be observed, and the people as they approached the Tropic, were seen about the deck in their summer dress. Health, that invaluable blessing, still voyaged with them: which could not but be attributed, under the guidance of providence, to the persevering care and assiduity of their Commander. The Crew being at three watches was not among the least of their comforts, as it insured them that repose so absolutely necessary in a voyage where frequently more than a common degree of health and exertion was required. It is by foresight and preperation for "the occasion" that difficulties are to be surmounted.
If I descend to a detail of the common food of the common sailor, it is from a conviction, gained by experience on this voyage, that too much attention cannot be paid to it. It has been observed that, the vessels had been supplied by Government with every article deemed conducive to the health of seamen. In the application of them, according to the weather and other circumstances, every degree of attention was paid. Sour Krout was issued every forenoon, which was cooked various ways, but perhaps the best is by
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parboiling, and then using it as a Sallad. As an antiscorbutic it has ever been allowed to have great efficacy. Borecole, a preparation of dried Cabbage, was, among many, in high estimation. On days where neither beef or pork are allowed, a quantity of this article and portable soup were added to the pease for dinner, making by no means a despicable dish. For breakfast, the crew had generally a warm mess of gruel, rendered more nutritious by mixing Bore cole with it. Spruce beer and Grog, in many parts of the voyage were issued alternately. The first is readily made at Sea, as well as conveniently carried. It was brewed chiefly in warm weather. To one pot of the essence, were added two gallons of molasses, and one pound of hops. This made a puncheon, which was sufficient for the daily expenditure. Vinegar was served weekly.
As well as to the aliment, every degree of attention was paid to the cleanliness and comfort of the crew. This duty appertained to the officer of the morning watch, whose report that every part of the ship was clean and dry for the inspection of the Captain was made in the forenoon. In the day time fires were constantly kept in both cockpits with funnels leading through the cable tiers, and in wet or damp weather, the galley fire was not extinguished throughout the night. To keep the ship clean and wholesome in the more confined parts below water was let into the well every evening and pumped out again. The Cables, Sails, Slops, and other
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stores were frequently got upon deck to air.
Much of the sickness on board ship proceeds from the men who have the watch on deck, sleeping about in damp exposed situations, and it is to be Lamented that more care is not, in general taken to prevent it. From a hot confined hammock a sailor finds his way up the hatchway ladder and whether the dew falls heavy or not, he little heeds, as after answering his muster, the first plank serves him to stretch his length and repose on, until a sail is hoisted or taken in, when he again seeks it. Any attempts to convince him how prejudicial it is to his health is fruitless, nor can it be prevented but by imposing some penalty. Even in our small crew it was not conquered for a considerable time. The English Tar is generally as careless of his health in prosperity as of his person in the trying hour of danger. He wants nursing, and though he may sometimes murmur, is not always found ungrateful for it.
On arriving in warm Latitudes the great coats were always put carefully away to be used in more severe ones.
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1st. We had not quite reached the South East Trade wind, yet was the air so warm, that, the awnings were fitted. Tropic birds, varying from those of the Indian or Atlantic ocean were about us. The tail feathers are in form like those of the common tropic bird, but the colour a bright crimson, only two in number, being considerably longer than the body of the bird.
Other visitors tempted by the change of climate from their lurking places, gave us considerable trouble. The ship swarmed with cockroaches. To destroy them the beams and carlings were frequently washed with boiling water. Many methods are practiced to get rid of these troublesome—and destructive—insects, but hot water thrown with forces into their hiding holes seems the most effectual; yet to arrive at it altogether is impracticable. The encrease of the Cockroach is astonishing; by exposing the Egg in a phial to the sun, after detaching it from the female, above sixty young ones were counted on the shell bursting.
2d. Wind from the South East quarter, and weather fine. From leaving the Cape of Good Hope the men had been constantly trained to the use of small arms, and were now so perfect, little doubt was entertained of their being steady in case of an attack from any hostile Indians.
A Course was now shaped, so as to get into the Latitude of Otahytey, some degrees to the Eastward of it. The most Eastern limit the ship reached, was 223°..30′ East.
5th. In the fore noon a low Island was discovered in the WSW, which was passed at two or three miles distance. The Latitude at noon was observed
109 1792 April towards Otahytey
in 21°..39′ South Longitude by account 217°..55′ East, when [blank]
The Thermometer 77¾...off the South West point a ridge of breakers extended about half a mile. It did not appear practicable for boats to land on any part of the Island seen by the Providence. From the mast head it was easy to determine that the Island was a low belt of land encircling a Lagoon, three or four miles across. No entrance could be seen, though in many parts the sea washed nearly over. From the light coloured water, it is most likely of but little depth. The soil appeared sandy, but not destitute of trees, among them a few of the Cocoa nut. On the beach were several very large detached dark rocks. No hut or canoe was observed, or any thing to indicate the Island being inhabited. A little after noon, made sail to the North West quarter.
[Marginal note:]
E. informed me April 1819 that he planted on the Morant Keys near Jamaica in the year 18[blank] a number
of Cocoa Nut trees.
I saw Trees on them in May [1809?] and before [?] could [learn?] more the [indecipherable]
Discovering this Island so near noon enabled Captain Bligh to fix its situation very correctly. When it is considered, the great number of these low lagoon Islands with which the pacific ocean is studded, it appears almost a miracle that ships should escape them. Nothing indeed, but the greatest vigilance aided by prompt execution, can prevent it. The Lead: which by the Navigator in most parts of the ocean is in some measure depended on, is here useless—Here he cannot, when night closes on him, feel his way, many of these Islands
110 1792 April From Van Diemans Land
have not a single tree on them, nor aught to give warning to the anxious voyager, but the white foam, or roaring of the breakers.
Many opinions have been indulged respecting the origin of these curious spots, starting as the seem from the bottom of the deep. Such opinions may serve to amuse, yet do they leave conviction far behind. It has been said that they owe their rise to the accumulation of coral at the bottom, which in time reaching the surface, becomes a resting place for birds, whose dung cementing with it forms a contexture of a vegetating quality. This is by no means improbable; or that, the seeds of plants should be deposited by the same means. The Cocoa nut indeed, does not require the aid of birds as after remaining a considerable time in the sea, it readily takes root. It is in fact a tree that delights in its roots being washed by the salt water. The finest groves of this excellent and useful tree are always to be found close to the beach.
The foregoing conjectures respecting the formation of these coral Islands do not appear very extravagant.
What is the progress in the growth of coral I am ignorant, but as I have seen it growing in the
most beautiful forms nearly fifty feet from the bottom, there does not appear any reason why, in course
of time, it should not reach a much greater height. Certain it is that, within a short distance of the
margin of most coral banks, a great depth of water is to be found, and by encreasing the distance a little
no bottom will be gained with a common sounding line.
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