“Captain Wood's Voyage Through
the Streights of Magellan, &c.”
John Wood
A footnote marked “*” and set in italics identifies a hand-written comment in the margin, in the hand of a former owner of the book, a Nicholas Dorton. In context, Dorton seems quite familiar with the places described. Perhaps he was a member of the crew. He has made no notations within the other three works bound into the same book. Wood's inconsistent spelling (Pengwin/Penguin, Salvages/Savages, etc., is left as is.
CHAP. I.
They Sail in the Sweepstakes, First for the Isle of May. Account of Cape St. George. Of Hare and Pengwin Islands. They arrive at Port Desire, with Directions to know it. The Tides there and other Remarkables. Of Lemair and his Discoveries.
An. 1669: In the Year 1669, being Saturday, September the 26th, we set Sail from the Downes, in His Majesty's Ship the Sweepstakes; having the Batchellor Pink, Captain Humphrey Flemming Commander to be our Consort, and continued our Course to the Southwards, without any remarkable Occurrences till the 28th of October in the Morning. When we saw the Isle of May, which bore S. by W. from us, and hauled in for the Road, Anchoring in Eleven Fathom Water, and Sandy Ground; but the Place afforded us neither Wood nor fresh Water, so that next Day we thought fit to bear away for St. Jago, which we found to be better stored with Water and Provisions, but almost as scarce in Wood as the other. From hence on the 5th of November, we set Sail with a fair Gale, directing our Course Southward for Cape St. George, otherwise by the Spaniards called Cape Blanco, from the Whiteness thereof: For when the Sun shines upon it in the Morning, it appears White; whereas towards Evening, it seems to be of a quite contrary Colour: On the 20th, it being hasey foggy Weather, we lost our Consort the Batchellor Pink, but the Weather clearing up by Eight next Morning we saw Land, bearing off four leagues distance, and the same proved to be the Pengwin Islands: But we being unacquainted with the Land, and having no Observation, made the said Island instead of the forementioned Cape, for supposing the same to have been the Cape, we stood to the Southwards, and expected to fall in with Port Desire, which is about Ten Leagues to the Southwards of Cape St. George, and was so named by that Excellent Person Mr. Thomas Cavendish. We went within two or three Leagues of the Shoar, in five and twenty Fathom Water, but not finding the Port, at Night we brought too, and lay of [sic, off] and on all the succeeding Night.
We found ourselves on the 22d to be in the Latitude of 48 d. 20 m. and Southward of the Port, and that Evening came to an Anchor in a fair Sandy Bay, which we took to be the Bay of Seals; at the North-End whereof stands a Rocky Island full of Seals, and therefore denominated so from them. The next day we stood to the Northwards, to look for Port Desire; at the South-End of which lies Seal Island, as this deep Bay does at the North, to the Northward whereof, lies also a small Rocky Island: The Seals are very plentiful here, of which we kill'd four hundred for our Food. About a Mile and an half farther up lies another Island, which is much frequented by a sort of Fowl which are called Shags, that live mostly upon Fish, whereof we killed a great many young ones, and found them to be very good Meat. About the same distance, yet farther up close to the South-shoar, stands another fine Island about three Miles in Length, which by reason of the great number of Hares we found thereon, we named Hare-Island; We killed Nine of them in one Day, found them much larger than our English Hares, some of them weighing twenty Pounds apiece: When they were Hunted they ran into Holes in the Ground, like unto our Coneys: This Island is the best Ground about the Harbour, the rest of the land being rocky, uneven and barren, and the Ground gravelly, without any Wood or Water.
On Thursday the 24th, fair Weather, we weighed and stood to the Northward with our Ship, and I went along the Shoar in our Pinnace, and cross'd over a great deep Bay, called Spicings [sic, Spirings] Bay, where their lie some Rocky Islands, as in Pengwin-Island; on which as soon as we Landed, we set a Tar Barrel on fire, to give our Men notice on Board that it was the Island we looked for; And all we had to know it by were the Pengwins we saw there, being so very numerous, that it was impossible to count them. We knock'd them down with Sticks, found them to be about the bigness of a Goose, but they could neither fly nor go very fast: They have no Wings but small Stumps wherewith they swim, and get their Food out of the Sea. We return'd in the Evening on Board our Ship, and Anchored in the Bay of Port Desire, in 16 Fathom Water, weighed two Days after, and went in with our Ship into the said Harbour.
Port Desire lies in the Lat. of 47 d. 30 m. South, into which a Ship may enter at any time of the Tide, if the Wind be fair, for there is Water enough at low Water; and at three quarters Ebb, you may see all the Dangers going in, or at quarter Flood: But I would not advise any Man to go in till he has viewed the Harbour at low Water, for then he will see the Danger very plain, and then you may have a Mark upon the Land to go in. As you come from the Northware from Cape Blanco, and go along the Shoar to the North of Cape Desire, there lie a ledge of Rocks, that raise themselves up a good height about the WAter, and are about a League's distance from the Shoar, besides several Breaches more. On the South-side of the Bay stands Penguin-Island, and five or six smaller ones: In the Northern part of the Bay is Port-Desire Harbour, which at the entrance thereof has a spired Rock on the South-side much like unto a Steeple or Watch-Tower, which is a very good Mark, the same standing on the South-side going in, about half a Mile from the Sea-side, and much about the same distance from the River. As we rid in the Port the spired Rock bore S. E. the same being shut in with a parcel of blue Rocks.
And now I am speaking of this Port, give me leave to say somewhat concerning the Ebbing and Flowing of the Tide here: Its high Water at twelve a Clock, upon the full and change of the Moon, and at Spring-tide it ebbs and flows about three Fathoms right up and down, and the Tide runs exceeding strong. The Harbour's mouth is indeed but narrow, being at the entrance of it not above Musket-shot over, and affords but very little Wood or Water: The Land is dry and barren, but here is plenty of Winnackers or Spanish Sheep, which are as large as our English Deer and wild; you have also some Hares and Ostridges but they are very shy, besides Ducks, Curboes, Black-Shags, White-Breasts, and great Blue-Ducks, which last are not very shy: To say nothing of the plenty of Seals we met with upon one of the Islands of this Port, which we made good use of, as we did of the large Muscles and Limpets we took. Upon one of the Islands in this Harbour, which we called by the Name of Lemaires Island [now, Isla del Rey], we found a Post erected, whereon was nailed a Sheet of Lead, and in an hole of the Post we found a Tin-Box with a Writing in it, but so much decay'd that we could not read it: But on the Lead was stampt an Inscription in Dutch, importing, That one Lemair a Dutchman set out from Horn [sic, Hoorn] with a Ship named the Unity of Horn and a Yacht, had arrived at this Harbour on the 2d of December in the Year 1615. from whence he departed on the 10th of January following, with the Unity alone (as the Lead makes mention,) what he did with the Yacht I know not,§ but I suppose he brake her up, for we found some Sheathing-boards on the Island: He fell in with the Streights of Magellan Jan. 20th, and four Days afer fell in with that which now bears his Name, being that same Person who first discovered Terra del Fogua to be an Island.
§ The Hoorn was laid ashore for cleaning, which included burning off the reeds clinging to the wooden hull. The burn spread to the rigging and then to the powder. By dawn the Hoorn was no more.
From the fore-mentioned Island the River is navigable for Boats to go up eight or nine Miles, the River above the Island running away S. W. by W. a Mile or more in breadth, and continues so about the space of a League, when it begins to be very narrow with very high, steep, Rocky Clifts with many small Islands or Rocks, the Land on both sides being very Barren and Rocky.
The Captain-Lieutenant and my Self with nine Men more, went up the River as far as we could, but found no fresh Water, neither could we see any sign of People: However on the North-side we met with two small Pools of fresh Water, the one bearing from the Place where we rid with our Ship N. W. about half a Bow-shot from the Water-side, but the other was N. N. E. about half a Mile off, and is the best Water being a Spring. Here it was that Mr. Thomas Cavendish and a Man and a Boy were wounded with Arrows by the Potagonians, who are the Salvages of the Country. I observed that the Tide in this Harbour ran very strong, and therefore it must consequently be a bad Port in Winter when the Ice comes down the River, which is narrow, and a Storm blows at West, which is very common, and a Tide of Ebb under Foot, besides the inconveniency of the scarcity of Wood. However on the South-side, about two Miles and a half from the Harbour's Mouth betwixt the Island and the Main, there is a very commodious Oazy Creek where a Ship may lye ashoar very well without any Danger; but in case you should be forced by Easterly Winds with a Tide of Flood, so as that you cannot bring the Ship up with your Anchor, you must of necessity run into this Creek; but you must have a care to avoid a Rock that lies in the fair way leading to the Creek, and is covered at half Tide.
CHAP. II.
They depart for Port St. Julian, but make some Remarks of the Penguins and Seals, and how to kill them. Some Historical Observations of Port St. Julian: Directions to find and sail unto it. Some of the Natives discovered. Of the Salt Lake. Of the Salvages's Diet, Apparel, &c. Of the Climate and Country, with the Fowls and Animals thereof, particularly the Wyanaquez, Huffer, &c.
Before our departure from hence, our Captain took possession of the Country for the use of His Majesty of Great Britain, as I shall also insist very cursorily upon a few Observations: We have already mentioned those Birds called Penguins to be about the bigness of Geese; but upon second Thoughts to call them Fowls I think improper, because they have neither Feathers nor Wings, but only two Fins or Flaps, wherewith they are helped to swim (as before-noted). When they are on Shoar they walk upright; and I understood their Breeding-time was at the end of September or beginning of the succeeding Month, at what time you may catch as many of them (they are so very numerous) as will victual a Navy-Royal: Their Eggs are somewhat less than those of Geese, some of whom lay one, others two, and some three, but never exceed that number. Their nests are ready made for them by Nature on the Rocks and Sands, from whence at our return to Port Desire, we gathered about 100000 of the Eggs, some whereof we kept in our Ship four Months very good: Their flesh also is well-tasted, and will keep in Salt very good for four Months.
We have also mentioned the great number of Seals found here, the same being a great Creature that feedeth in the Sea, and swims like a Fish, but in similitude is like a Beast; they take their rest, sleep and bring forth their Young on the Shoar, and I think they may for all that be called Fish: Some of them are as big as the largest Horses, and will keep good in Salt several Months. The Instrument wherewith to kill thiese Penguins and Seals is a good short Trunchion, but the larger sort of Seals are no so easily dispatched; for tho' you have shot them through the Head with a Musket, they will find two Men half an hours work to kill them out-right; However you may go as near them as you please, for they have no defence for themselves.
An. 1670. March 25th we set sail for Port Desire, and by the seventh of the following Month entred into the Port of St. Julian, with a Design to stay there by reason that Winter was already come, and that it was adjudged more convenient for us to take the beginning of the Year to pass through the Streights of Magellan: Now this Port was so named by Ferdinando Magellana a Portuguese, Anno 1520. § who by reason of some Discontent or Difference with Don Emanuel his Prince, left his Native Country and went for Spain; where he was entertained by the Emperor Charles V. for the discovery of a Passage this way for the Mollucca-Islands, which he effected through these Streights that were call'd according to his Name. In this Island it was, that he hanged John Carthagena the Bishop of Burga his Cousin, † who was joined in Commission with him, as also four Men more for Mutiny, but the Priest he turned ashoar; and himself was afterwards killed by the Natives of Mollucca.
§ See Woram: The Origin of San Julián for more on this subject.
† See Pigafetta's Magellan's Voyage and the Notes page for conflicting accounts of Cartagena's fate. He is not identified as a Bishop in any known account. Perhaps Wood confused his name with the Roman Catholic title of Bishop of Cartagena (in present-day Colombia).
This Port is moreover remarkable for Sir Francis Drake his Wintering Here in the Year 1572. and beheading of one Mr. Thomas Doughty for compassing his Death, and designing to return with the Ship into England. The Island in this Harbour, where he was executed and buried, was called by the name of the Isle of true Justice by Sir Francis, who entered this Harbour on the 20th of June 1572 where he had the Misfortune to have two of his Men slain by the Natives (who were buried on the now-mentioned Island, and whose Graves and Bones we found) and himself very narrowly escaped.
It will not be impertinent in this Place to give some Directions to find and enter into this Port, for the Benefit of those that may come after; and therefore you are to observe that when you are come to the Northwards of Cape St. George, or Port Desire; that the first high Land you shall see, will be in the Latitude of 48 d. 40 m. S. which is the Latitude of the Harbour, where the high Land ends, between which and the low Land you go into the Harbour: But if you fall in with the Land to the Southward part of the Harbour, you will find it to be low from the Harbour to the Lat. of 50 d. 20 m. the same being flat without Hammocks or Woods, and nothing but steep white Clifts to the Seaward. Having made the Harbour you may come to an Anchor before it in 7, 8, 9, or 10 Fathom Water; but at the Mouth thereof lies a Beachy Bar, which at high Water has four Fathom, but at low, four Foot of Water only.
In order to your Sailing over this Bar, several Things may be observed; but surely the best way in is to sound and buoy the Channel, for I suppose the Bay alters with the raging of the Storms: Be sure to keep the Rocky Point on the North-west side, as also certain White Spots on an In-land Hill, both which, when you find them one in another, you may adventure to run in and out; and for a sure Mark to know when you are on the Bar, there is at the North-East about a Mile and an half from the Harbours Mouth, in the Bay, certain White Clifts, that seem as so many Islands. Now when the middle of these Clifts, and a saddle in the Land behind them are both in one, you are then on the Bar. When you are past over it, keep in the fair Way till about a Mile and an half up, when you may Anchor in six or seven Tathom Water; but hte best Place to Moor in, is between the Isle of true Justice, and the other Island which lies near it: However, the Tides in this Harbour are sometimes very uncertain, for if the Wind is Southerly, the Neap Tides will rise as high as the Spring ones.
We continued several Days in this Port, before we could see any of the Natives; but on the 12th of April, my self, the Boat-swain, and two Men more went up to the top of an Hill at East, which is the highest between Cape St. George, and the Streights of Magellan, where I had the Curiosity to Ingrave my name, and call'd the place Mount-Wood: From hence to the Northward I discovered a great Lake (now, Laguna la Mina), seeming as if it were an Harbour, which made me desirous to go and see it, in order to which we advanced about two Miles forwards towards it; when looking about me, I perceived somewhat to have a Motion behind a Bush, which I supposed to be one of that Country Sheep, or a Deer, and made me move towards it to Shoot it: But I found the same to be a Man, and one of the Natives of the Country, who perceiving I had discovered him, stood up and removed a little further off behind an Hill, where he was met by Six more with their Bows and Arrows, which made me think it most advisable to return for that time to the Ship, which I did accordingly, being followed by the Natives at a distance for about two Miles, when I found the Sun was set, and that yet I had Six more to get to the Ship.
I went ashoar in Company with the Lieutenant, and Ten Men more upon the 20th, and made to the same Place, where I had discovered the People before, in Expectations to see more of them, but could not: However, by the Lake side I saw the Footsteps both of Men and Children, and now I have mentioned this Lake again; I cannot but observe that we found it to be a Salt one, wherein were many Tuns of Salt, and from whence we fetch'd at several times to the quantity of Ten Tuns, which was of extraordinary use to us in the salting of Seals and Penguins: This Salt is corned by the Sun in the Summer Season, whereof May the 15th, we imployed Fifty of our Men to heap up together a great quantity of it, least the Rain should fall and dissolve it in the Pond wherein it lay; and where we found the Water was all gone, leaving the Salt as white as Snow, very plain and even as any Flower could be, and hard. This Lake I paced over, and found it to be four thousand paces broad, which is about two English Miles and an half, and in length about ten Miles,§ and the Salt all over about four Inches thick; so that by my Computation at that time it might containt a matter of 100000 Tuns of Salt; however, we were not much the better for that which we had heaped together, as aforesaid, for going three Days after to fetch some of it off, we could not find as much of it as would fill an Egg-shell, which was so much the more admirable, since there had no Rain fallen in the mean time to dissolve it.
§ Today's Laguna la Mina is about 2 × 7 miles in size.
From hence forward, I could see none of the Natives till the 22d of June; when I set out early in the Morning Westward, with Six Men in my Company; and had not travelled above two Miles, but met sever Savages, who came running down toe Hill to us, making several Signs for us to go back again with much Raving and Noise, yet did not offer to draw their Arrows: But one of them, who was an Old Man, came nearer to us then the rest, and made also Signs we should depart; to whom a threw a Knife, a Bottle of Brandy, and a Neckcloth, in order to pacifies him; But seeing him persist in the same Signs as before, and that the Savageness of the People seemed to be Incorrigible, we returned on Board again.
As far as I could observe by these People, they have no Houses nor Habitation, but wanter from Place to Place to seek their Food, which consists mostly in Seals and Limpids, with some Fowls and Deer. Having spent the Day in the said manner, they return at Night, and fix themeselves behind some Bush, where they make a small Fire, I suppose on purpose, because they should not be discovered afar off by Night; and they lie upon the cold Earth, without any Canopy but Heaven.
As for the Apparel of these Savages, they have no other, but Mantles made of Deer-Skins sewed together, wherein they wrap themselves up, and need no other Covering, they being by Nature very hardy, and of an Olive Complexion, as all the Americanes are, in conformity to most of whom these also paint their Faces and Bodies with many Colours.
It hapned, that some of our Men being on Shoar August the 16th, on the East-side, in order to fill Water; two of them at a small distance from thence met with two Potagonians behind a Bush, who immediately ran away from them, leaving their Baggage behind them, consisting of some Skins sewed together, made into little Bags; wherein were contained some Flints and Colours, besides two Dogs they had there also tied together. All these our Men brought with them on Board, for which our Captain was very angry, and therefore next Day he went himself to the same Place, where they found them, and there left them; besides a Kinfe, other Toys, and some Beads which were fastned to the Dogs Necks, and then turned loose: That the said Paint was for their Bodies, I take it for granted, but what use they had for the Flint, unless it were to make the Heads of their Arrows, I know not.
We found the Weather in the Harbour to be of the same temper as in England, in the Winter Season: As for the Land its for twenty Miles round this Harbour dry, barren, rocky and gravelly, being without Wood or Water, only a few Bushes, and them growing near the Water side, for the farther up you go into the Country, the more barren it is. The Captain and my self accompanied with Eleven Men more, had the Curiosity to go once twenty Miles up within Land, but we could see no People, nor any thing else worth remarking: Only about nine Miles from the Place where our Ship lay, we found a fresh-water River that runs into a Salt Lake there, whereof this Country does abound, so having lain out two Nights, we return'd on Board again. In the Winter Season we have very good Diversion in Hunting, Fishing, Fowling, especially in Frosty Weather; For then we met with plenty of Brand-Geese, Ducks, Widgeons, Plovers, Snipes, Sea-Fowls, Partridges, and several other sorts, whereof we have none in England, and therefore I cannot name them; We did not moreover want for store of Muscles. Upon the Land there are many Deer or Sheep, which the Spaniards call Wyanaques [guanacoes], being a large sort of an Animal about twelve Hands high. Their Heads and Necks are long like a Camel's, but their Bodies and hinder Parts resembling very much those of an Horse. We found them to be be very watchful and shy, but we killed seven of them in the time we lay here, and found their Wool to be the finest in the World. You may see a drove of six or seven Hundred of them together, which upon their discovering of you will make a Snort, and Neigh like a Horse; but we should have made a better hand of them, had we had but Dogs to run them down.
Ostridges are also very numerous here, and run so wondrous swift, that they are not to be taken without Dogs: Besides which, we found many such Hares here, as have already been mentioned to have been at Port Desire, some of them weighing twenty Pounds. The Foxes are numerous in this Country, but less than those in England. Here is moreover a little Animal that is somewhat less than a Land-Turtle, having a jointed Shell on his Back, and which we found be be excellent Food, the Spaniards call it A Hog in Armour. But above all, I cannot pass over without mentioning a little Creature with a Bushy Tail, which we called a Huffer, because when he first sets sight on you, he'll stand vapouring and patting with his Fore-feet upon the Ground, and yet hath no manner of defence for himself but with his Breech; for upon your approaching near him, he turns about his Back-side, and squirts at you, accompanied with the most abominable Stink in the World.
I have already mentioned the scarcity both of Water and Wood in this Country, and therefore shall only further observe; That tho' the Summer affords none of the first sort, yet in the Winter Season you may find Snow-water in many Places. And the most convenient Place for a Boat to Fetch some, is at a Rock that lies in this Harbour. And for Wood, tho' there be more of it here than in Port Desire, yet if their Ships were to Winter in this Port, they would hardly find enough to supply their necessary Occasions; but what ther is of it grows near the Water-side in little Brushes.
CHAP. III.
They depart from St. Julian to Port Desire. An Instance of the Art of the Savages. Observations concerning an Ecclipse of the Moon. Sail for the Streights of Magellan. Of several Capes, with an Historical Account of the Spaniards Attempt to fortifie the Streights of Magellan, and their Miscariages.
The Winter now being now spent, and the Summer approaching, we departed from the Harbour of St. Julian, September the 16th, with an intention to Sail again for Port Desire, to get Penguines and Seals, and then to steer off for the Streights of Magellan to the South Seas: We arrived at the said Port on the 18th, on the North-side whereof, we found some Rushes which the Savages had formed into the shape of a Ship, with three Masts and a Bolt-sprit, and painted it Red, but could not see any of them all the time we lay there, tho' we concluded they had see[n] us: However, we found their Graves in many places, that implied to us, they were numerous; and some of our Men having once Washed some Linner, and hung the same to be dried, they stole them away, and an Iron Pot which we had left in the said Place.
The Night of the same Day of our Arrival here, I observed the beginning and ending of the Ecclipse of the Moon. Whereby I found the difference of Longitude between London and this Place to be 70 d. which in Time is four Hours, and 52 Minutes.§
§ Wood was off by about 190 miles, for Port Desire is about 66 degrees west of London.
It appears therefore that this Ecclipse began at London, 17 m. 52 seconds past One a Clock on Monday Morning, September the 19th: But in this Place I observed the beginning of the Altitude or Scorpion to be on Sunday Night, September the 18th, at 5 m. 48 seconds past Nine: Therefore the difference of Time betwixt this Place and London is 4 Hours 52 Minutes, which converted into Degrees, gives 73 d. for the difference of the Meridian; Betwixt London and this Place is 66 degrees from the Lizzard. The middle of this Ecclipse I could not see for the Clouds, but off the Land are to be observed 12 hours and 30 m. by the Altitude and Mars, which makes the total duration to be 52 seconds more here than in London.
Before our departure from hence, we sowed several sorts of English seed, such as Turnips, Carrots, Colworts, Reddishes, Beans, Pease and Onions. Some of each of which, that the Patagonians had left, we found upon our return. The Turnips were very good, but for the Reddishes, Beans and Pease, they were gone to Seeds; Neither could be perceive that the Indians had used any of them, but only pulled them up by the Roots, and then left them to wither.
It was now the 14th of October, when we set Sail with a fair Wind from Port Desire, Southwards towards the Streights of Magellan. By the 17th of December, we fell in with a fair white Cape that lies in the Lat. of 50 d. South, to which our Captain gave the name of Beachy-Head: We saw also the Hill of St. Ives, which makes a flat Table-Land aloft, at the North-end whereof stands a round Cobling-Hill, that is just even with the height of it, some other such Hills there are also to the South thereof: We still continu'd our Course till coming to the Lat. of 50 d. 30 m. We discerned a Cape which consists of all white steep Clifts, and the same having no Name to it, I called it Cape Blankford. From thence to Cape Virgin-Mary,§ where we arrived October the 22d, the true Compass is S. by W. about 20 Leagues, but the Course by Compass is S. 23 d. W. The Land all that way being low, with white Clifts, and the sounding all along 28 Fathom, good Sandy Ground. The Flood setting between the two Capes, N. N. E. and Ebb S. S. W. Its high Water at the full and change at Ten a Clock, and rises about four Fathom.
§ Actually, the Cape of the 11,000 Virgins.
Cape Virgin-Mary was so-named first by Ferdinando Magellana, which lies at the entreance into the Streights of Magellan; about four Leagues to the Northward whereof, you will see all white Clifts, and steep up the Cape, it self being the highest Land; but about a Cables length to the North of it, there is a Black Spot in the Clift, over which there is a Fall from the Plain, and about he pitch of which S. W. you have a Beachy Point reaching about a League in length into the Sea, so that when you Sail into the Streights, you must be sure to give the Cape a good breadth: On the top of this Beach there grows some small Bushes; by what I could discern, the Land from one Cape to another is barren, and there is no sign of Wood to be seen: What Course the Tides keep here I know not, nor which way the Flood sets; for we rid the Wind with our Ship, and there was then but little of it.
The Land on the South side of the Streights Mouth (which having no Name, I called Queen-Katherine's Fore Land) is all white Clifts about the height of the Isle of Wight, and about 8 Leagues over from Cape Virgin-Mary; from which the Land by Compass West lies 9 Leagues into a Point called by the Spaniards Point-Possession: Now before I enter the Particulars of our passing these Streights, I shall observe some Historical Passages in regard to the Care the Spaniards formerly took, that no Body should do it but themselves. They were mightily allarmed when they heard that Sir Francis Drake had gone through them into the South Seas, and therefore to prevent the English, or any other Nation from the like Attempts for the future. They resolved to fortifie the same, and to that end the Vice-Roy of Peru sent out two Ships under the Command of Pedro Seranto [sic, Sarmiento de Gamboa], who was at that time the best Navigator they had in those Seas, to try if he could meet with Drake, whom they so much dreaded, and then to view the said Streights where they could be best fortified. He was Nine Months in his Passage from Lima to this Place, but upon his Arrival he made all the Observations he could there in respect to what he went about, and so Sailed for Spain to give the King an Account of what he had done; who finding by him that the Streights in some places were so narrow, that they might be fortified to hinder other Nations from passing and re-passing; He thereupon sent away Diego Faris de Valdez, with a Fleet of Ships consisting of 28 Sail, and 3500 Men on Board, besides a new Governor to Chila [sic, Chili], and 500 old Soldiers to be imploy'd in the said Work.
But how well provided soever Things seemed to be for the Expedition, the Fleet proved unfortunate in all their Designs: For at their first setting our from Cadiz, a Storm cast away five of them with the loss of 200 Men, and forced the rest back again into the Harbour, very much damnified; and two of them were so disabled, that they could not proceed on their Voyage. However, Diego Faris de Valdez put out again with sixteen Ships, having Pedro Desermento [sic again: Sarmiento de Gamboa], who was to be Governor of the Streights on Board, and who carried along with him all manner of Artificers, and other Necessaries to erect a Fort, besides a great many Guns, and all sorts of Ammunition: But this Fleet thro' the formentioned Disaster, setting out late in the Year, they were forced to Winter upon the Coast of Brazill, in the River of Rogimero [sic, Rio de Janeiro]. When the Spring came, they Sailed away to pursue the rest of their Voyage; but when they came into 42 d. S. Lat. they met with a Storm that forced them to beat up and down for 22 Days together, wherein they lost one of their best Ships that had 300 Men, and 20 Women on Board, with the greatest part of the Ammunition they should have left at the Streights; and so they were forced back to the Island of Cathalena, where hearing that the English had been upon the Coast, they made all the haste they could to follow them; supposing they were gone for the Streights of Magellan.
The Commander was forced to leave five of his Ships, that had been disabled in the last Storm behind him, on Board of which he put his Sick Men and Women, and so put out only with 10 Ships out of three and twenty that he had under his Command, when he first set our from Cadiz: But he was no sooner arrived at the Streights Mouth, than that he met with a great Storm, which forced him back again to the Rogimero River. However, Pedro de Sermento went thither the next Year, and Landed 400 Men, and 30 Women at Point Possession above-mentioned, where they built a Fort, and called it by the name of Nombre de Jesue [sic, de Jesús]: From thence he went to Port Famine by Land, and built also a Tower or Cittadel in that Place, which he called King Philip's City. But Sermento upon the approach of Winter, took five and twenty Seamen along with him, and departed for Spain: But in his way thither, he was taken by the famous Sir Walter Raleigh, § who carried him into England, while the Spaniards, whom he left at the Streights behind him, were all starved to Death.
§ Sarmiento was actually seized by Sir Richard Grenville, sent out under the orders of Raleigh.
CHAP. IV.
Of their passing the several Narrows of the Streights of Magellan, with various directions and Cautions for it. Of the main Land North. Magellan-Grapes. Harbours. Of Queen Elizabeth's, and the other Island's Products and Inhabitants. Of the main Land again. A vast Haul of Fish. Directions to Sail to the South-Sea by the Islands.
It's now time we should come to the passing of the Streights themselves, through the first Narrow whereof we run on the 25th of October, and got on the South Shoar, and wherein there will necessarily fall in some Observations: To which end you are to remark, that to the Westward of Point Possession before mentioned, there is a Sandy Bay, into which you must have a great care how you enter, for it is shoal Water, from whence five Leagues W. S. W. lies the first Entrance of the said narrow that is two Miles and an half over from side to side; and from the East Point of which Entrance, there are two shoal'd Banks, one to the North, and the other to the South-side; the best lying furthermost out, and is a Rocky Ridge only: But if it should so happen, that the Wind takes you short, or that the same come, you may Anchor in the fair way between Point Possession and the Narrow. As for the Land, you will find it on both sides indifferent high with white Clifts, and a Sandy Shoar with Pebble-stones at low Water, but 'tis shoal'd so off, that a Boat cannot Land.
On the North-side, within a quarter of a Mile of the West-Point, lies three Anchors upon the Sand, belonging surely to some Spanish Ship that had been cast away there; the Sheet Anchor, and the best Bower being about 12 Foot long, whereas the smaller was 11: But they were all of them half eaten with Rust; from hence also runs out a ledge of Rocks half a Mile long, which may be seen by the Weeds that grow upon them; wherefore when ever you see any such, you may infallibly conclude there are shoal Water and Rocks there.
Take notice, that when you have past the first Narrow, and if you think you cannot reach that called Queen Elizabeth's Island § before Night; I would advise you not to come to an Anchor here, unless the Weather should be vary fair, but rather chose to Sail back again, and Anchor between the Point and the Narrow; For should a Storm arise at S. W. by W. as the Place is very subject thereunto, you will have little shelter, and in case your Ground-Tack should fail you in the Night, you must unavoidably drive ashoar: For after you have got about two Leagues into the broad Place between the two Narrows, you will find you can hardly discern the Point of the second, it being low Land; and if the Weather should happen to be hasey in the Day time, its almost impossible to hit it by Course, much less in the Night.
§ Now, Isla Isabel.
The North-shoar being to the high Land, two Leagues Westerly from the first Narrow, it continues so till you come to the Entrance of the second Narrow, where 'tis low again; and this same Point is called Cape Gregory, under the East-end whereof lies a Road for Westerly Winds, where you may Anchor in seven or eight Fathom good Ground: But as for the South-shoar from the first Narrow to the second, its indifferent high Land, and appears to be ruggen and uneven, on which side we saw several Fires as we return'd back, which is a manifest sign there are many People there.
Having said thus much concerning hte Pasage of the first Narrow, I come now to the second, which we went through on the very same Day as we did the other in the Evening. At the East-end its about five Miles broad from one side unto another; butat the West its somewhat less: Our Course through it by Compass was S. W. by S. but the Course is West 17 d. South. I observed the length of it from one end to the other to be three Leagues, which makes the distance from Cape Virgin-Mary to be 28 Leagues. When you have almost Sailed through, you will see three Islands at North-West, by Compass at about four Leagues distance, of which Sir Francis Drake called one Queen Elizabeth's Island; the other two being known by the names of St. Gregory * and St. Bartholomew. §
* {or St. George, & is sometimes called Pinguin isl: from the No. of those birds on it.
§ Queen Elizabeth's, St. Gregory (called St. George's by Narbrough; also noted in Dorton's insertion immediately above), St. Bartholomew are now Isla Isabel, Marta, Magdalena.
As for the Land between this second Narrow, and the Head of Queen Elizabeth's Island, its very high, and appears to be dry and barren in some Places; But in others, particularly the Vallies, the Soil is fertile, and bears good Grass. It produces also small Berries, which are excellent good Fruit, and to which we gave the name of Magellan Grapes. They are of a Purple Colour, Seeded, and taste like our European Grapes: They grow singly on small Bushes like Berries. Besides which there is also another sort of a Berry here, like a small Cherry, of a Reddish Colour, which we called Hearts.
Now from the Point of the second Narrow to the West-end of Queen Elizabeth's Island is seven Leagues, and betwixt which two Places you may Anchor on the North-side from six to twenty Fathom Water: But you need go no farther up then to bring the East-Point of the Island S. by E. from you, but keep in the Fair Way between it and that North-side, and you will have eight or nine Fathom good Ground: But when the East-end of the Island bears S. W. W. then you will have the Channel that runs between the Islands up, where there is an indifferent strong Tide and deep Water, but if you ride with the Point of the Island S. and S. by E. there runs but little Tide. Its a most convenient Place to lie in for Winds, if you are going through the Streights unto the South-Seas; For if the Wind be from the East to the West Northward, you may lead it away betwixt the Islands. Its an excellent Place for any Ship to ride in, in respect to any Winds, for its full Sea in this Road at the Full and Change; At nine a Clock the Flood sets Westward, under the North-shoar, and the Ebb to the Westward, tho' between the Islands the Flood sets Southerly: But to say no more of this, take notice that on the North-shoar there are two little Harbours that are both good and safe for small Vessels, one of which stands near two Leagues from the Narrow, and the other about three and an half; the Eastermost whereof I named Crabb Harbour,§ from the many long legged Crabbs we found there, which are indifferent good Provision in cases of Necessity, an to the other, which is the best of the two, I gave the name of Port Vaughan. †
§ Probably, Seno Otway.
† Perhaps the name of a crew member, and now probably, Puerto Oazy.
As for that Island which is called by the name of Queen Elizabeth, its above six Leagues in length from East to West, and three from North to South, and indifferent high Land; But more particularly the East Point which is both high and steep, from whence runs a great Ripling, that is nothing but the setting of the Tide, for there is Water enough. You mail Sail round it with a small Vessel; but the Channel at the West-end is narrow and rocky, and in some Places not above three Fathom deep.
October the 26th, in the Morning, our Captain, my Self and some Others went ashore here in our Pinnace, and found the Island had neither Wood nor fresh Water; But that the Soil bore good Grass, and divers sorts of Berries. Here it was our fortune to fall in with some of the Native Indians, to whom we gave Beads and Knives in truck for Bows and Arrows and Winnacoes [guanacoes] Skins, which is all they have for Cloathing: As for Minerals of any kind, I could not perceive they had any. Their Women wear Bracelets made of small Shells about their Necks, which they string on the Sinews of some Beast or other: These Indians are of a mean Stature, and there was in a Company about Thirty Men and Women of them.
As for the other two Islands, St. George and St. Bartholomew, I have little remarkable concerning them, only you will meet with young Birds called White-Breasts in the latter, in the Month of November, which are very good Meat, and some Penguins also, but far greater abundance of them on the other Islands, and the same are both larger and better than those you have at Port Desire: and when you would go ashoar for them, be sure you keep to the middle of the North-Point, for from that of the East and West, runs a strong Tide that makes a great Ripling Sea, which is dangerous for small Boats: Be sure you provide your selves also with long Gaffes or Boat-Hooks to pull them out of their Holes in the Ground, where they will Earth like Conies in their Burroughts. But this Place produces no Wood nor Water that is fresh neither.
The Land from the South-side of the second Narrow to the Southward of the Isles is high, and by the many Fires we saw, I do really believe it to be well Peopled: The Shoar is Sandy, and shoals off within the Narrow. And on the South-side there is a little Cove, where at high Water you have abundance of Fish like Mullets, of which we caught in our Sean at one Haul no less than feven Hundred of them, the least whereof was as big as a Mackerel: But for the Land on the North-side from the same Narrow, to the Head of Queen Elizabeth's Island, it is low, and seems when you are ashoar to be sweet and pleasant enough. It produces plenty of Sheep and Ostridges, as you have them indeed all along the Coast from Cape Virgin-Mary, on the Northside, but on that of the South, none are to be seen.
To conclude therefore my Observations here with the Chapter, before I Proceed any farther, take notice, If you are bound through into the South-Sea, be sure when you may Anchor from this Place, to keep in the fair way between Queen Elizabeth's Island and St. Bartholomew, where you will have no less than thirty Fathom Water, and continue the said distance till you come to the south-end of the first Island. And for that of St. George's, remember there lies a Bank about a Mile long, * whereon there is three of four Fathom Water, and in some Places less but the same may be seen a great way off by the Weeds growing there, which are (as has been already noted) an infallible sign of Water; except only at the West-end of the Streights, where there are some Coves, you will see some in eleven or twelve Fathom Water.
* to the Westward.
CHAP. V.
They Sail to, and arrive at Port Famine, with what was observable between, in Fresh-Water River. Their Dealings with some Indians. Some Directions to Sail to the Port, with some Account of it. Fine Fishes, and exceeding large Smelts here. Of the Trees, Birds, People, &c.
My Design being otherwise, then to give a Particular of every Days Journal, as may be seen by what I have already delivered: I shall only observe, that being now the 30th of October, we weighed, and stood to the Southward, when I found the Hills to be of a good height, but trending low to the Water side, and full of green Bushes, very thick, and the Hills covered with Snow. The Wood is indifferent good, but not very tall of growth, the same growing much like Elms, Elder and Bays: We endeavoured to make the best of our way, but some Gusts off of them Hills, and the approach of Night, made us come to an Anchor in eleven Fathom Water greisly Sand. It proved to be a Bay wherein we found two Rivuletes of fresh Water, into which you may row your boat and fill your Cask, as you may also take in plenty of Wood, both being easie to come at: And here take notice, That whereas from Cape Virgin-Mary to this Place, you can meet with neither of the two fore-mentioned useful Commodities, you being to meet with both here. Brand Geese and Ducks are also plenty in this Place, where we met with some Trees much like Currant-Bushes: Our Captain gave this the name of Fresh-water Bay, where the Streights are about five Leagues broad from side to side. We weighed again next Day, had much Wind and Gusty at W. N. W. Some of us went along the Shoar in our Pinnace, and about two Leagues and an half to the Southward of the foreside Bay, we fell in with a small Sandy Bay, at the N. E. End whereof, lies Rocks and shoal Water, about two Cables length off. * Here having discovered two Indian Canoes, some of us went ashoar and spoke with the People, who seemed to be very quiet, and became suddenly familiar with our Men. Both the Men and Women were much pleased to have Beads and Arms: We gave them several other Things, but every thing tat was Red, whether Linnen or Woollen they esteemed most. In lieu of our Commodities, they gaves us Bows, and their Skin-Coats, which are those of Deer, and several others sowed together with Thongs, cut out of Seal's-Skins: But they finding now our Ship was gone before, they made all the haste they could after her, and found her at Anchor in Port Famine.
* Here also Mons. de Gennes first saw these Indians in 1696 building Canoes of bark..§
§ Captain Jean de Gennes led a squadron to the Straits. Later, engineer François Froger's Relation of a Voyage … was published (English translation; London, 1698: Matthew Gillyflower), in which he reported the following:
At Port Famine they saw some natives who were building two small boats of bark.
There are in the Course of the Sailing from Queen Elizabeth's Island to this Port Famine, several small Bays to be met with, as you have them laid down in the Description of the Streights of Magellan: And whereas you will find the Land high, from whence proceed suddent and strong East flaws of Wind, keep the West-shoar on Board, for the East-side is generally a Lee-shoar, and deep Water, so that you have no good Anchoring Ground here, but on the other you may Anchor all along from one place to the other; And you may Sail within a Mile or two of the Shoar, till you come within two Leages of Port Famine: But then there lies a Rocky Place about a Mile from the Shoar, whose Point when you have passed, you may look in again, and know Port Famine when you come from the Northward by a great Tree, which stands by it self upon the North Point. You will see moreover in your said Course to this Point a great Gap, or opening on the East-side, as if there were a Passage through: For to the South-end you will discern all the Land shut up, and no opening to be seen; wherefore have a Care you do not put in there, for fear you fail of coming out again; except the same goes into the East-Sea, as the Spaniards call that at the Entrance of St. Sebastian.
This Port Famine is a fine Port, is where you may ride in eight or nine Fathom Water, a good birth from the Shoar, and a South-East Wind is the worst that can blow here. It flows about ten Fathom Water, and 'tis high Water about twelve at full Moon or Change-Day: that Mr. Thomas Cavendish, Anno 1587. gave it the name from the Spaniards, having been starved here (as before-mentioned) is past Dispute; But however accidental that might be, certainly the Place was named contrary to the Quality of it: For had the Spaniards been industrious, they needed not have Famish'd here, where there are such plenty of Fish and Fowl; Of the first wheverof we took great quantities with our Seans, found them to be like Mullet, but much bigger, and good Food, which being split, and dipt in Pickle, and then dried, will keep good six Months: To say nothing of the Smelts which we caught here also, which are the biggest that ever I saw or heard of, some of them being no less than 21 Inches long and eight about. It was in this Place that the Spaniards built the Cittadel called according to King Philips Name above mentioned, to prevent the English to pass the Streights: But in truth it was to as little purpose, as for Dover Castle to pretend to hinder all Ships form passing the English Channel, for the Streights at the first Place are six Leagues over. Mr. Cavendish, upon his Arrival, set their uninhabited Houses on Fire, and digged four great Guns which the Spaniards had hid there out of the Ground, tho' after all we could never find there was such a Fortification built.
In the South part of the Bay, there is a River which the Captain named Sedgar's River,§ and wherein there is a great plenty of Brand Geese, and Pied-Ducks, of which we killed many: And once the Captain and I going with our Yawle into the said River, in two Hours time killed no less than fourteen of them Geese. On both sides this River there is good store of Drift-Wood, which lies very convenient to be cut and slipt on Board for Firing, but some of it will make good Fishes for Masts and Yards: But up higher you have a great deal more, amongst which there is one sort of Wood which will make small Mastes and Yards for small Ships, when the same is dry, but green 'tis two [sic, too] heavy. This tree grwos like Birch, and when it is dry it looks reddish like Juniper, it being a general Wood throughout the Streights: Besides which there is also another Tree which grows like Lawrel, the Bark whereof, whether green or dry, tasts hotten than Pepper. In this Wood I saw five Birds, among which was a small Parrot, or Parakite, and found that betwixt it and the Water side, there grew abundance of Magellan Grapes, Hearts, and other small Berries, which are all good Fruit, and grow all the Streights over. Neither are there signs of a great many People's living here, wanting, for we found beaten Paths made by them all along the River side.
§ Previously named Rio San Juan named by Sarmiento. Narbrough mentions a Segars River once, but does not claim to have given the river this name. The identity of “Segar” (or “Sedgar”) is unknown. In any case, the river retains the name given it by Sarmiento.
November 2d, the Day before our Departure from this Port, the Indians whom we saw before, came over against our Ship; and upon our discovering them, some of us went ashoar, with whom one of them came off aboard, to whom we gave some Victuals, and several other small things of little value, and then set him ashoar again: While I staid here, I could not perceive any sign of Minerals in the Land, or about the People; the Women only wearing small glittering Shells about their Necks, and upon our carrying a little Seal with us aboard, they Oyled their Bodies all over with it.
CHAP. VI.
They Sail for Shut-up Point, and the nature of it. For Cape Froward. Of Cape Holland. Port Gallant. Elizabeth's Bay. Cape Quad. Cape Munday, and Cape Disado or Desire. They put into the Streights again. Of Tuesday-Bay. Of the Island Nestria Seniora Del Sacora. Of several Openings. They Arrive at Baldivia, and their Adventures there. Four of their Men detained, and what follow'd to the end of their Voyage.
Accordingly, November 3d, we weighed Anchor, and stood to the * Northward till we came near to that Point called Shut-up-Point, which is the same already mentioned; and by which, because the Land on both sides is so high and steep, as if the North-side seemed to join to the south, you are so far from discerning which way the Passage goes, that he that knows it not would think there is none at all there. But as you Sail farther, you will see it open to the Westward, about Cape Froward, which is the Southermost Land of the great continent of America, which was so named because its very high, steep and rocky, and so consequently very subject to Flaws, and for which we now steered S. W. by W. about three Leagues: Here the Streight rounds away to the Westward still. The Weather proving very gusty with Fogs, we had no Place to Anchor in, and so lay plying to and fro in the Streights all Night, about four Leagues to the Westward of the Cape.
* Was not to the Southward? (Dorton is correct.)
We did the same next Day till tweleve, when a little to the Westward of Cape Holland we put in to a Sandy Bay, called by our Captain Wood's-Bay, according to my name; where you may ride in eighteen or twenty Fathom Water, a good birth from the Shoar; The Weather was fair on the 5th, but little Wind at E. by N. On the Morning whereof, at seven, we were short of Cape Holland, and steered away W. N. to get the North-shoar aboard, for on the South-side there are small Islands, and craggy Rocks with several Coves: As we Sailed along, we saw a Fire to the South-side. A little to the Westward of the Cape there is a Sandy Bay, where you may ride in eight, nine of ten Fathom Water, four or five Cables length from the Shoar; into the which, the Weather blowing hard in Flaws, and Night coming on, we put. This Bay is to the Eastward of Cape Gallant, to which we gave the name of Fortescue's Bay, and within which is a fair Sandy Cove for small Ships, called by our Captain Port Gallant. Within it are two Rivulets of fresh Water, and plenty of Wood; the Land trends low to the Water side, to the Eastward of the Port; And ther is a Bay of about two Miles long, (wherein there is a little Island, and some Rocks) the same being called Cordes Bay: But to the Westward the Land is high, and the tops are ecovered with Snow. The Streights are four Leagues broad in this Place, where lies two or three Islands in the mid-way, South and West one from another; Two of which are pretty large, and full of Timber, about which lies several other smaller Rocky ones, short of Cape Gallant, where the Streights round to the North-west, and are as it were shut up.
From hence we Sailed for Elizabeth's Bay, which is on the North-shoar, at the beginning of the North-west Beach: The Streights here also make as if they were shut up, and that there were no Passage, but yet they are about three Leagues broad. Two Leagues to the Westward of this Bay, you have a fresh Water River, called by our Captain Batchellor's River, on either side of which you may ride in eight or ten Fathor Water: Our Pinnace went into it, but it is shoal, and about a Bow-shot from side to side. We sent our Boat on the 7th to the South-shoar, but saw not any thing worth of Observation; for the Land is irregular, the tops of the Hills covered with Snow, and of a foggy nasty quality, with small Trees and rusty Grass. We met also with some Juniper, and other Trees in this Place, which bear Leaves like those of Bay, or Lemmon-Trees, whose bark is hot like Ginger.
We left this Bay on the 13th in the Morning, by Noon we were athwart St. Jerom's Channel, as we were two Hours after of Cape Quad; To the Westward of which we made the best use of our time we could, we Coasted the Shoar to the North with our Pinnace to see for an Anchoring Place, but could find none. Next Morning we steered Westward, and by six a Clock came athwart a Point of Land on the South side, which was more out than the other Land to the North beareth, to which our Captain gave the name of Cape Munday, being about 13 Leagues distant from Cape Quad, and the Course from this to it is W. by N. 12 N. here is 16 or 17 degrees; To the Eastward of this true Place, the variation from the North Point is so many degrees to the Eastward of its true Place, and so it is all the Streights over, which are here but four Leagues broad; And the Land is all high craggy Rocks on both sides, covered with Snow, from Cape Froward, to Cape Disado, but there are many good Anchoring Places between them.
In our Passage from Cape Quad, we saw many Harbours, Rivers, and Sounds on the South, running a great way into the Land; and I know nothing to the contrary, but that they may be all Islands, for we had no time to Discover them. We pursued our Course still to the West-ward of South-seas, and kept all along within two Leagues of the South-shoar, which is much the boldest; for on the North, at the entrance of the South-seas, it is all Islands, and which is the cape they call that of Victory I know not, for it makes like high Rocky Islands. This Morning we discovered Cape Disado or Desire, about three Leagues from us, being S. W. 12 a Point Westerly, to which from Cape Munday, our Course by our Compass, was W. by N. and they are 18 Leagues distant one from another. This Cape Disado W. S. W. from you, makes much like the Needles going into the Isle of Wight, but higher, and not of that Colour: And as you come from the East-ward, sailing along West-ward, within two or three Leagues of the South-shoar, you will open two small Rocks: But when the Cape bears S. W. of you, you open the Low-Land to the Southward of the Cape. This Night we lay plying to the Westward, open to the Streights Mouth, the Wind at N. W. but not much, but we had a great deal of Rain.
The Weather being thick and hazy on the 15th, and like to blow, we bore into the Streights again, to see for some Place to Anchor in, in order to secure our Ship, having information of a Cova about three Leagues within the Streights, in looking for which, we fell in with a small Bay, where we had good Anchorage; at the West-end whereof ly five or six small Rocky Islands, which shew not themselves when you are a Mile from them, but then they appear as if joined to the Main. In this Bay, to which our Captain gave the name of Tuesday-Bay, there is a small Cove at the West-end, which is a good Birth from the Islands, and no Winds can hurt you here, where we found also Wild Geese, Ducks, and other Wild Fowl, as they are all the Streights over.
We left Tuesday-Bay, Nov. 19. descried Land on the 25th; and next day standing in for the Shoar, we saw the Island called Nestra Seniora del Sacora [sic, Nuestra Señora del Socorro], and came to an Anchor in a sandy Bay on the East-side of it; which was no sooner done, but some of us were ordered ashoar to see for Indians and what the Island could afford us. As for the former, we could not see one Soul; but we see an Indian's House, much like unto one of our Arbours, under the side of a Rock, on which there sat great store of Birds, being the same sort of Fowl as we had seen before in the North-sea, whereof we Killed between two and three Hundred of them with Sticks, they being young and not able to Fly. We met with plenty of other sorts of Birds in this Place, as we did also of Wood and fresh-water.
We weighed Anchor Nov. 30th early, to go look for a Harbour to secure our Ship; And N. W. from the Place where we Rid, we saw an opening, which we supposed to be St. Domingo, and standing over to see it, beheld several of them appearing like Harbours or Sounds, into one of which I entred with our Pinnace, expecting it had been a good Harbour; But it proved to be an Island, to the Westward whereof I saw the Sea open, and in the mid-way of the Rocks, betwixt the Main and it with shoal Water, but a great Sea; However, there are some small Sandy Bays in this Place, where you may ride with a North-east Wind: But ther is no getting out with a South Wind, the Wind was now at W. N. W. so that we returned back again to the Isle of Succour, from whence of the 5th of December we Sailed for Castro, which we discovered next Day, when we tacked and plied close under it; Our Captain at the same time ordering the Lieutenant to take the Pinnace, and set Don Carlos ashoar, in order to find out some Indians, and to Trade with them, but there went so much Sea that it could not then be done, and so they return'd aboard again, and we stood off to Sea all Night, intending for Baldivia, the River whereof we fell in with Deecember 15th, and the Spaniards at St. Peter's discovered our Ship, with which we stood in as far as we thought advisable: As for the Course from Cape Disado to this River, I find it to be North 6 d. 45 m. Easterly, distance 262 Leagues.
This Morning, the Captain Commanded the Lieutenant to Land Don Carlos, which he did accordingly. Much about the same time came two Canoes off from Land, but would not come on Board: However, one of them came to the Ship side, altho' she immediately put off again, perceiving us to be Strangers, but the other Canoe would not come near; We stood in on the 16th in the Morning for Baldivia, to see for Don Carlos, and what account we could get of him, but we could not see him, nor any sign of him for all we could do, whereat we were not a little concerned. Hereupon the Captain sent the Lieutenant in with a Flag of Truce, to know if we might have the liberty to Wood and Water, which they granted, and sent a Pilot to carry in the Ship: We stood in for Baldivia the Day following, and Anchored in 15 Fathom Water black and sandy, open with the River; and in the Afternoon Lieutenant Becket § was sent in with the Pinnace, to set the fore-menntioned Pilot ashoar, landing him at the same Fort he belonged to, which was a small one, going up to the South-side: and the Lieutenant was no sooner ashoar, but the Governor of St. Peter's Fort sent for him, to whom, when he went, he found for all his seeming Courtesies, his main Business was to know what we were, and whither bound: And all the Inquiry he could make concerning Don Carlos signified nothing, of whom we could learn no manner of tidings.
§ Lieutenant Peckett in Narbrough's Journal.
On the 18th of December our Captain having sent our other Lieutenant Mr. Armiger with three Men more ashoar to the Governor about getting leave of him for us to take in Water, they were detained by him as Prisoners without any Reason shewed for it, and all that we could do by Messages and otherwise coujld not procure their Enlargement, and by their whole Management I understood plainly the Spaniards had a mind to betray the Ship, of which our Captain was not a little aware, and so took occasion accordingly for its Preservation.
However not to be wanting to our selves nor our Friends, we sent a Flag of Truce on the 18th to parley with the Governor at a distance, but none of them would come off to answer our Expectations; but we, on our part, set two Indians that came on board us, ashoar, one of whem carried a Letter with him from our Captain to the Governor, who the day after sent us a Canoe to fetch off our Men's Cloaths; and the same being their own desire, our Captain gave order for the delivery of them.
Within the River of Baldivia there are three Forts, two of which stand on the South-side as you go in, but the other on the Island in the midst of the River which is that of St. Peters already mentioned, and wherein there are eight Guns. As for their Shipping we saw but one small Vessel here of about thirty Tun Burden that steered under the South-shoar, with a design to keep under the Command of the small Forts: And for Boats they had no other than great open ones, which they use for the transporting of Goods and Soldiers, and ill-shaped Canoes.
But to return, seeig it was now to no purpose for us to tarry here any longer, we set sail and stood off to Sea December 21st from this River; but two Days after we stood in with the Shoar again, and about 11 came to an Anchor in 15 Fathom Water in a Sandy Bay, about nine Miles from Baldivia to the Southward thereof. Here the Captain sent the Lieutenant and some Men ashoar to see for some Indians and to Trade with them; but tho' there was a bad Landing-place yet they got footing, and made a Fire upon the Place which they found to be a very Woody Country, but they could see no sign of People, and so they returned on Board again, weighed, and we made the best of our way for the Streights of Magellan.
On the 6th of January at 4 in the Morning we saw four Islands lying N. N. W. from Cape Disado at about 7 Leages distance, at our first sight of them they bore N. E. by N. from us, then we altered our Course and steered E. and E. by S. and in two hours time saw Cape Disado bearing E. by S. from us about four Leagues distance; At ten we entred into the Streights, and at four in the AFternoon anchored in a Bay within them in fourteen Fathom-water. It was rainy, cloudy, hazy Weather to the Eastward, and at 8 at Night anchored in eight Fathom-water in a fair sandy Bay at the Mouth of Batchellors River, which lies about two Leagues to the Westward of Elizabeth's Bay to the North-side.
Next Morning the Captain and some more of us went up Batchellor's River four of five Miles, but could not well go farther tho' we perceived the same might run eight or nine: Our main Business was to see for Indians to Trade with; but all the Signs we could make brought none to us, so that we came on board again without seeing one of them, or indeed any other Animal whatsoever, whereat we were somewhat dismayed; wherefore we tarried here no longer than till next day, when we set Sail for Port Famine, and at Twelve a Clock came athwart Cape Froward; but there being little Wind, and a Calm all the Night following, we lay driving to and fro in the Streight: But the day following, we made the best of our way for Port Famine, in whose Bay we Anchored by Twelve a Clock, in nine Fathom Water, where we had Fishes from the Shoar to fish our Main-mast, whereof we stood in need; and this Place afforded good large Trees for that purpose, besides the conveniency of good Water, wile Fowl, Fish, and large Smelts.
The first thing we did here, was to fit up our Ship-masts, and Rigging also, as well as we could, and to carry our Ship, which we stored moreover with as much Water and Wood as we thought necessary. Then we began to examine the Place; To which end, Jan. 16. the Lieutenant was ordered with the Boat to go into Segar's Bay [sic, River] as high as he could, in order to see for Indians; but the shoaliness of the Water was such, and he met with so much Trunk-timber, that he could not get up about nine Miles with the Boat, which made them Land and travel two Miles up the Country, but they neither met with People, nor any thing else worth observing; so they returned on Board again. But our Captain being not Discouraged herewith, Jan. 29. went himself with the Pinace to the South-shoart, to try whether he could discover any People and to see for an Harbour for Shipping, short of Port Famine, on the point of which Port, on the same day, came an Indian and made a Fire, so that the Lieutenant went ahoar to see what he had, but found he had neither Bow nor Arrow, nor any thing else to the value of a Farthing, and all that we could do, could not induce him to go aboard; and all that the Lieutenant (by some Signs he made) could learn from him, was, that he had been a Slave to some other Indians, had made his Escape, and was returning to his own Home.
We continued in this Harbour till Feb. 4. when early in the Morning we set sail from Port Famine, and by six in the Evening, Anchored in twelve Fathom Water, in a fine sandy Bay, four Leagues North of Fresh-water Bay; And the Captain sending some men ashoar next Morning, they return'd on Board again, without finding any thing: However, on the 7th the Lieutenant was order'd out with the Pinace, to row along the North-shoar, and between Elizabeth's Island and the Shoar to the same purpose; but it blew so hard NOrtherly, that they could not row a-head, and so they were constrained to put back into Sandy-Bay, where they Landed and staid all Night; but next Morning they ran down the Streights with the Pinace, keeping the North-shoar aboard; betwixt which and Elizabeth's Island they run, but could see no Indians, tho they observed several Places where they had lately been, and built their Canoes: So that in the Evening they return'd on Board again.
But tho' the Lieutenant was commanded ashoar gain next Morning, namely to the same end as before, yet he could see no Indians still; however, he fell in with an Harbour fit for small Vessels, on the North-side, at the South-end of a great deep Bay, athwart of Queen Elizabeth's Island, the entrance whereof was not a Bow-shot over. It's about seven Miles long, There are plenty of Geese and Ducks in it: Ashoar also you may have Heath-berries and Hubbs, besides small Black-berries, that are very well tasted.
We were moreover ordered out with the Pinace on the 11th, to the North-shoar, to see if we could conveniently descover some part of the South: We past through the second Narrow, and were to go to the first, where we had Orders to stay for the Ship, and in the mean time, Landed in a fine sandy Bay or Cove, on the South-side, where we saw many Fires up the Countrey, but still no Indians: So that Night approaching, necessitated us to return to the Boat, and pitch a Tent to ly in: And at High-water we set our Boat athwart a Pond, where it staid till Low-water, when we haled the Pond all over, and caught some hundreds of large Mullets, or Fish very like them. We went on the North-shoar next day, and landed with the same design of Discovery, and had the same ill success, meeting with no living Soul: And on the Morning of the 13th, ran along the North-shoar, from Cape Gregory, to the first Narrow, whereunto we were no sooner entred, but we saw the three Anchors formerly mentioned, and nothing else material, but that the place for the space of five or six Miles, is full of Rats, that have holes in the Earth like Coney-Burroughs, and are supposed to feed upon Limpets.
Tuesday the 14th in the Morning, tho' it was bad Weather, yet we saw our Ship come down the Streights, and when she was through the Narrow, they brought her to, and we got on Board, making all the Sail we could, and before it was quite Dark, were got clear off the Streights, into the North-sea. In the Evening of the 23d. at Nine at Night, we Anchored in 22 Fathom Water, and sandy Ground, on the South part of America, in 47 Deg. 16 Min. Lat. Cape Blanco hearing N. N. W. or us, at about six Leagues distance. We weighed next Morning, and at six in the Evening, Anchored in Port Desire Bay, into which Port our Long-boat entred on the 25th, in order to fill fresh Water, whereof they found but an inconsiderable quantity, and that but indifferent too.
From this time forward, till the 17th of May, norhing memorable occurred to us: When we saw that Isle of St. Marie, which is one of the Azores, bearing E. N. E. from us, at about sixteen Leagues distance by Estimation, the Weather being fair, and the Wind at S. E> Two Days afer we discovered the Town of Pantalogo, upon the Isle of St. Michaels, which is one of the fore-mentioned Islands, bearing North from us at about two Miles distance; and whither the Captain sent some Men ashoar to enquire what News there was from England, and whether we had War with any Nation; wherein we were fully satisfied by Mr. Richard Huchinson, our Consul there, that we had none, but with the Algerines, only our Provisions now being spent, and our Water very low, we made all the haste we could to bear up for the Terceras, and on the 24th arrived in Angrea Bay: From thence two Days after, viz. May 26th, we set Sail for England, and met nothing in our Passage worth noting, till our happy Arrival upon the Coast about the middle of June, when we understood the Spanish Ambassador at Court had resented our Voyage into the South-Seas, but without any notice taken of it.