Sandwich Islands  Contents  Source  Whalesite

Passage to the Sandwich Islands — Woahoo— Historical Sketch of the Islands — Progress in Civilization — Sandal Wood — Resources of the Government — Slow Progress of Education — Efforts of the Missionaries — Unsuccessful Result of their Zeal — Sentiments of the King and Chiefs — Entertainment given by the King — Death of Krymakoo — Wailing Scene — Departure of Kahumana for Owyhee.

      Upon leaving Monterey we steered to the southward with a fair wind, which carried us into the trades, and attended us the whole way to the Sandwich Islands. In our course we searched unsuccessfully for all the islands that were marked near our route, rounding to every night when near the position of any one, that it might not be passed unobserved, and making sail on a parallel of latitude during the day. In this manner we searched for Henderson's and Cooper's Islands, besides several others said to lie near them, and also for a group in the latitude of 16° N., and longitude between 130° and 133" W.; but we saw nothing of them, nor had we any of the usual indications of the vicinity of land; so that if any of these islands exist, they must be in some other parallel than that assigned to them in the American Geographical Table, published in 1825.^*

      On the 25th, after a pleasant passage of twenty days, we saw the Island of Owyhee; and the following day anchored in the harbour of Honoruru, the capital of the Sandwich Islands. We had the satisfaction to meet all our former acquaintances well, and to receive their congratulations on our return; we had also the pleasure to find Mr. Lay the naturalist ready to resume his occupations. During our absence, he had unfortunately been prevented pursuing his researches among the islands by a severe illness.

      After the usual etiquette of salutes, I visited the king and Kahumana, who appeared very glad of our arrival, and being informed that the ship was to remain a few weeks in the harbour, they very kindly appropriated three houses to the use of the officers and myself, and seemed determined to show by other acts of attention that the regard they had alwavs expressed for our nation was not merely an empty profession.

      In my first visit to this place, I gave a sketch of the appearance of the town of Woahoo and of the inhabitants, with the advances which the country appeared to be making in civilization. It may not be superfluous here to insert a very concise account of the islands during the last few years, to enable my readers to judge more correctly of their progress, and to furnish information to such as may not have the history of them fresh in their memories.

      At the time the Sandwich Islands were discovered by Captain Cook, Owyhee was under the sovereignty of Terreeoboo, or Teriopu, who died shortly after the departure of the discovery ships. Tamehameha, who

afterwards became so celebrated, was the nephew of Terreeoboo. He is not mentioned in the official account of Cook's voyage, but in a narrative of the facts relating to the death of the great navigator, published by Mr. Samwell, the surgeon of the Discovery, Meah Meah, as he is called by that gentleman, is represented to have slept on board that ship, and to have had with him a magnificent feather cloak, with which he would not part, except for iron daggers, six of which he procured, and returned to the shore well pleased with his bargain. No doubt his intention was to wrest the sovereignty from the hands of the successor of Terreeoboo, an enterprize which he performed shortly afterwards by assembling his forces and defeating him in a pitched battle, in which he is said to have slain him with his own hands. After this victory, no other chief possessing sufficient power to oppose Tamehameha, we find that on the arrival of Vancouver in in 1792 he had acquired supreme authority both in Owyhee and Mowee. He soon afterwards attacked and conquered Woahoo, and, assisted by his valiant protegé Krymakoo, in 1817, became sovereign of all the Sandwich group.

      Vancouver was very instrumental in establishing the power of this chief on a firm basis, by noticing Tamehameha in a manner which could not escape the observation of the other chiefs, and by building him a decked vessel, which gave him a decided superiority of force, and enabled him to keep them in subjection. In return for these important benefits, the grateful chief, in presence of Vancouver and the Eries of the group, made a formal cession of the islands to the king of Great Britain, and the natives have ever since considered themselves under the immediate protection of this country.

      In the early stage of our intercourse with these islands, several acts, such as the death of Cook, the murder of Lieutenant Hergerst, and the treacherous seizure of an American vessel, rendered merchant vessels cautious of communicating with savages of apparently so ferocious a character; but when it was known that the perpetrators of these murders were punished by Tamehameha, and when his real character was made public by the voyages of Vancouver and other navigators, every vessel employed in the Pacific was desirous of visiting his dominions. In course of time a regular market was established for the sale of the productions of the islands; the natives were instructed to accept Spanish dollars and European clothing in exchange for their goods; and several foreigners, by the king's persuasion, were induced to settle upon the islands. The native chiefs, in imitation of their sovereign, began to dress in the European style. A fort was built for the protection of the principal town, and a number of the natives were instructed in the use of fire-arms. The harbour of Honoruru soon became crowded with ships of all nations, and latterly the place has assumed the appearance of an European colony.

      The discovery of sandal wood in the mountains opened a profitable channel of commerce; and several adventurers, chiefly from the United States remained to collect it from the natives. They found a ready market for it in China; the goods of that country were brought in return to the Sandwich islands, and thus was laid the foundation of a trade which still continues. Tamehameha having purchased several vessels with this precious wood, attempted to conduct this trade with his own resources, and sent a schooner

bearing his flag to Canton; but, owing to the forms and impositions practised in China, and other circumstances which he could not control, the speculation failed, and this advantageous trade has since been carried on by the Americans.

      In all these plans for the benefit of his country, for the introduction of civilization among his subjects, and for the establishment of his assumed authority, Tamehameha was greatly indebted to the advice and assistance of two respectable English seamen, Young and Davis, whom he persuaded to remain in the islands. Their services were not unrequited by the great chief, whose generous disposition and intimate knowledge of human nature induced him to bestow upon them both rank and fortune, by raising them to the station of chiefs, and giving them estates. They in turn proved grateful to their benefactor, and conducted themselves so properly that every visitor to the islands has spoken of them in the highest terms. Davis died in 1108[sic], and was buried at Woahoo, where the place of his interment is marked by a humble tombstone: Young still survives, at the advanced age of eighty-two. Besides these advisers, Tamehameha had a faithful and wise counsellor in Krymakoo, afterwards better known by the appellation of Billy Pitt.

      Tamehameha having seen his country emerge from barbarism under his well-directed efforts, and having conferred upon it other important benefits, died in May 1819, at the age of sixty-three. His biographer will do him injustice if he does not rank him, however limited his sphere, and limited his means, among those great men who, like our Alfred, and Peter the Great of Russia, have rescued their countries from barbarism, and who are justly esteemed the benefac-

tors of mankind. His loss as a governor, and as a father to his people, was universally felt by his subjects. It is painful to relate that, though his death occurred so recently, several human victims were sacrificed to his manes by the priests in the morais; and, according to the custom of the islands, some who were warmly attached to him committed suicide, in order to accompany his corpse to the grave; while great numbers knocked out their front teeth, and otherwise mutilated and disfigured themselves.

      Tamehameha was no sooner dead than his son RioRio, who succeeded him, effected the most important change the country had yet experienced. Having held conferences with the chiefs, and obtained the sanction of Keopuolani, a powerful female of rank, he ordered all the morais to be destroyed, and declared the religion of the foreigners, — of the principles of which he was then very ignorant, should henceforth be the religion of the state. The burning of the idols and the abolition of the taboo immediately succeeded this destruction of the morais, and put an end to many cruel and degrading customs, both injurious to the interests of the country and oppressive to the people, especially to the females, who were thenceforth admitted to an equality with the men.

      The prejudices of Tamehameha had always opposed this change in the religion of his subjects, not so much, I am informed, from his being bigoted to idolatry as from its being better adapted to his politics. The maxims of our religion he thought would tend to deprive him of that despotic power which he exercised over the lives and fortunes of his subjects. The terror inspired by human sacrifices, and the absolute command which the superstitions of his idolatrous

subjects gave him, suited the plan of his government better than any other religion, and he, consequently, Jan- opposed every attempt to propagate the gospel among his people.

      Up to this period no missionaries had reached the Sandwich Islands, and for nearly a year there might be said to be no religion in the country; but at the expiration of that period (in 1820), several missionary gentlemen arrived from the United States, and immediately entered upon their vocations. Keopuolani became the first actual convert to the Christian religion, though in 1819 both Boki and Krymhakoo were baptized by the clergyman of Captain Freycinet's ship. Keopuolani being a chief of powerful influence, her example was followed by a great many persons, and the missionaries have since added daily to the number of their converts, and have been protected by the government, particularly by Kahumana and Kapeolani, two female chiefs next in rank to Keopuolani, and probably first in power in the islands.

      Keopuolani died in 1823, after having received the sacrament. She was a grandchild of Terreeoboo, and a daughter of Kevalao, who was slain at Mowee. At the time of this victory, which added Mowee to the dominion of Tamehameha, Keopuolani was only thirteen years of age. She happened to be on the field at the moment of the defeat of her party, and became the prisoner of the conqueror, who, in order to secure his conquest by right as well as by victory, united her to himself in marriage. She had, however, afterwards, agreeably to the custom of the country, several husbands, of which one was Krymakoo, who also fell into the hands of the king at Mowee, and whose life was generously spared; and another, Hoapiri, who, though

a plebeian, was admitted to the honour of being one of the favourites of the queen. This person is the reputed father of Kiukiuli the present king, while Tamehameha is said to have been the father of Rio-Rio. The queen, however, declared both her sons to be children of the illustrious chief, and they succeeded to the throne accordingly, in cases of this nature the declaration of the mother being held sufficient.

      Rio-Rio is represented to have been far inferior in intellect to his predecessor, and his youth and inexperience encouraged the superior chiefs to plan means for recovering their independence. At the moment the order was given for the destruction of the idols, a chief named Kekoakalane treacherously seized the war god, and joined by a party of rebels fled with it to Owyhee, where he hoped to excite the inhabitants in his favour, and to establish himself as an independent chief; but he was closely pursued by the gallant Krymakoo, and slain at Lakelakee, and hence that place has become celebrated, as the spot on which the last struggle for idolatry occurred. Another insurrection soon afterwards occurred at Atooi, which was quieted by the courage and promptitude of Rio-Rio, who embarked with a few faithful followers in a canoe, and in a personal conference brought the rebels back to their duty. Atooi was the last of the Sandwich Islands that was reduced to subjection by Tamehameha, and its chiefs were constantly on the watch for opportunities of recovering their independence. Russia, or at least her subjects, taking advantage of the disaffected state of Atooi, landed some guns upon that island, and erected a fort, which was taken possession of by the natives. Krymakoo, however, with a body of followers from Woahoo, overthrew the rebels. The

chief being permitted to choose the manner of his death, desired that he might be carried to sea, and be drowned by having a weight fastened round his neck. In addition to this attempt of the Russians to separate Atooi from the kingdom, it was supposed that America was also desirous of forming a settlement upon one of the islands. Rio-Rio foreseeing that occasional rebellions might arise in his dominions, through the interference of foreign powers, determined on a voyage to England to have a personal interview with the king, under whose protection the islands had been placed by Tamehameha, and also, perhaps, from a desire to see the country which furnished articles so superior to the manufactures of his own dominions.

      The death of Rio-Rio and his queen, it is well known, occurred in this visit to England. Their bodies were conveyed to the Sandwich Islands by Lord Byron, in H. M. Ship Blonde, and lodged in a house built for the purpose, where they still remain.^* Lord Byron having given the chiefs, in Boki's words, "good advice," and having placed the crown upon the head of Kiukiuli, the brother of Rio-Rio, and seen the government confided to Krymakoo as regent, quitted the islands about ten months before our first arrival.

      Previous to the death of Tamehameha, several European houses appeared in Woahoo. Vessels and warlike stores had been purchased with sandal wood. The navigation of the Pacific became more general in

consequence of the return of peace, and the islands were more frequently visited. The abolition of the taboo had already produced an entire change in the state of society, and frequent interviews with foreigners created amongst the inhabitants a desire for dress and for luxuries, which was increased by the visit of the chiefs to England. Thus improvement advanced, as might have been expected under such advantageous circumstances as those in which the Sandwich Islands were placed. At the period of our visit there were in Woahoo several respectable American merchants, in whose stores were to be found all the necessary articles of American manufacture, the productions of the China market, wines, and almost every article of sea store. There were also two hotels, at which a person might board respectably for a dollar a day; two billiard rooms, one of which was the property of Boki; and ten or a dozen public houses for retailng spirits. The houses of the chiefs were furnished with tables and chairs, and those belonging to Kahumana with silk and velvet sofas and cushions. Not contented with the comforts of life, they latterly sought its luxuries, and even indulged in its extravagances. Kahumana filled chests with the most costly silks of China, and actually expended four thousand dollars upon the cargo of one vessel. Boki paid three thousand dollars for a service of plate as a present for the king, notwithstanding he had other services in his possession; one of which was of expensively cut glass from Pellatt and Green in London.

      This progress of luxury was attended by an equally remarkable change in the civil and political arrangements of the country. At the period of our visit the king was always attended by a guard under arms; a

sentinel presented his musket when an officer entered the threshold of the royal abode; soldiers paraded the ramparts of a fort mounting forty guns; and "all's well" was repeated throughout the town during the night. The harbour in the spring and autumn was crowded with foreign vessels, as many even as fifty having been seen there at one time; five thousand stand of arms were said to be distributed over the island; three hundred men were embodied and dressed in regimentals; and the Sandwich Island flag was daily displayed by five brigs and eight schooners. The islands had already received consuls from Great Britain and the United States; had concluded treaties of alliance with them; and we have just heard that their spirit of enterprise has induced them to fit out, and despatch an expedition to take possession of some of the islands of the New Hebrides.

      This state of advancement, considering the remoteness of the situation of these islands, and the little intercourse they have hitherto held with the civilized world, could hardly have been anticipated; and we hope it may not prove too rapid to be advantageous to the country, which has now several expensive establishments to maintain, and extravagant ideas to satisfy, with means evidently diminishing, if not nearly exhausted. The treasures accumulated by Tamehameha, and the supply of that precious wood which has been so instrumental in bringing the islands into notice, have been drained to meet the expenses of ruinous purchases which have materially contributed to the apparent show of grandeur and prosperity above mentioned. The sandal wood, it is known, requires many years to arrive at a fit state for the market, and its cultivation not having been attended

to, the wood is now becoming scarce, while the debt of the nation has considerably increased. During our visit, in order to avoid the expense attending the collection of this wood, it became necessary to levy a tax upon the people of a pecul, or 1331b. each, which they were required to bring from the mountains, under a penalty of four dollars, and to deposit with the authorities at Honoruru for the purpose of liquidating the debt of the nation. The greater part of the wood brought in was small and crooked, and only fit for the use of the Jos houses in China, where it is burned as incense, but the consumption of it there is diminishing in consequence of an order for its disuse in those places of worship. The odour of the sandal wood of the Sandwich Islands is very inferior to that of Malabar, Ceylon, and other parts of India. With the exception of the profits arising from the sale of sandal wood, of salt, and from the port dues, and from the advantage derived from merchant vessels visiting the islands for refreshments, there is no revenue of consequence; certainly none that is at all adequate to meet the expenses of the nation.

      The chiefs, foreseeing the approaching crisis, are anxious to avail themselves of any prospect of an increase of revenue. Thus attempts have been made to manufacture sugar from the canes which grow very abundantly and in great luxuriance in the islands; and I sincerely hope that Mr. Marini, who has hitherto been of the greatest benefit to the government of Woahoo, may succeed in the mill which he was constructing for this purpose during our visit. But machines of this nature have already cost a very large sum, and have not hitherto succeeded, partly, perhaps, in consequence of the want of proper materials. A

cargo of this sugar it was hoped would be ready for exportation in 1827, which was then to be carried to the Californian market, where, as it has already been said, sugar attains a high price. But the Sandwich Islands, until much more advanced in the science of cultivation, will always have to compete with Manilla in the sale of this material. Tobacco, coffee, and spices have been introduced into the islands, and it is to be hoped they will succeed under the fostering hand of the indefatigable individual before mentioned. An attempt was made to encourage the planting of cotton, which was tolerably successful the first year, but for some reasons, which were ascribed to the. rigid observance of the church duties, the labourers were prevented from gathering the crop, and it rotted in the pod. It is particularly unfortunate that the attempt to cultivate this plant, which would be of great advantage to the islands, should have failed both in the Society and Sandwich groups, as it will probably discourage the inhabitants from any further endeavour to produce it. Salt has been collected from some lakes near the town, and for some time past has produced a small revenue. Hereafter it is likely to be in greater request, for the purpose of curing meat for sea store, or for exportation to Kamschatka, where it is in great demand. Flax of a good quality grows upon Owyhee, and rope for the vessels of the country is made from a species of urtica? As yet, however, the sandal wood is the only material that has produced any revenue of consequence.

      Soon after the Christian religion had been introduced into the Sandwich Islands, several of the chiefs were taught to read and write, and were so delighted at the idea of being able to communicate their thoughts to friends at a distance, without the necessity

of disclosing them, and free from the risk of misinterpretation, that some of the scholars laboured at their task as if the prosperity of the islands depended upon penmanship alone. Education in other respects has made much slower progress than every well wisher of the country could desire. A few individuals who have had the advantage of continued instruction have acquired a limited knowledge of the scriptures, but many remain ignorant even of the nature of the prayers they repeat; and in other subjects are entirely uninstructed.

      The missionaries appear to be very anxious to diffuse a due knowledge of the tenets of the gospel among all the inhabitants, and have laboured much to accomplish their praiseworthy purpose: but the residents in Honoruru well know what little effect their exertions have produced, probably on account of the tutors having mistaken the means of diffusing education. In the Sandwich Islands, as in all other places, there is a mania for every thing new, and, with due reverence to the subject, this was very much the case with religion in Honoruru, where almost every person might be seen hastening to the school with a slate in his hand, in the hope of being able soon to transcribe some part of the pala pala (the scriptures). This feeling under judicious management might have produced the greatest blessings Woahoo could have enjoyed; and the gentlemen of the mission might have congratulated themselves on having bestowed upon the inhabitants very important benefits. But they were misled by the eagerness of their hopes, and their zeal carried them beyond the limits calculated to prove beneficial to the temporal interests of a people, still in the earliest stage of civilization. The apparent

thirst after scriptural knowledge in Honoruru created a belief among the missionaries that this feeling was become general, and auxiliary schools were established in different parts of the island, at which we were informed every adult was required to attend several times a day.

      While this demand upon their time was confined within reasonable limits, the chiefs, generally, were glad to find their subjects listen to instruction; but when men were obliged to quit their work, and to repair to the nearest auxiliary school so frequently during the day, so much mischief was produced by loss of labour, and such ruinous consequences threatened the country, that many of the chiefs became desirous of checking it. Kahumana and her party, however, persisted in considering it desirable, and in supporting the missionaries; while a powerful party, at the head of which were the king and the regent, exerted themselves to counteract their endeavours. Thus dissensions arose very prejudicial both to the cause of religion and to the interests of the country. The chiefs lost their influence, the subjects neglected their work, and hypocrisy on the one side, and intemperance on the other, became the prevailing errors of the time; the latter indulged in probably to a greater extent, with the view of bringing ridicule on the opposite party; a scheme in which it is said that Boki himself condescended to join.

      At length the regent and other chiefs determined to break through this rigid discipline. The ten commandments had been recommended as the sole law of the land; this proposition was obstinately opposed; a meeting was called by the missionaries to justify their conduct, at which they lost ground by a proposal that

the younger part of the community only should be obliged to attend the schools, and that the men should be permitted to continue at their daily labour. The king, whose riding, bathing, and other exercises had been restricted, now threw off all restraint, and appeared in public wearing the sword and feather belonging to the uniform presented to him from this country by Lord Byron, which his preceptor had forbid him to use, under the impression that it might excite his vanity. The boys, following the example of their youthful sovereign, resumed their games, which had been suppressed; and among other acts which, though apparently trifling, discovered to the common people a spirit of opposition, and an earnestness on the part of the chiefs to overthrow the system that had been brought into operation, Koañoa, who had long been enamoured of a female chief, Kenow, whom Kahumana intended for the king (although she was old enough to be his mother), being refused the marriage ceremony by the mission, carried off the object of his desire, and took her to his home.

      This was the state in which we found Woahoo, and from it the missionaries might extract a useful lesson while imparting religious instruction to mankind, of the necessity of combining their temporal interests with those which relate to their prospects of futurity.

      It was supposed, from the manner in which Kahumana persevered in her support of the missionaries, that she was actuated by a deeper policy than appeared. Her jealousy at the investment of the sovereign power in the king and Boki was well known; and it was surmised that she entertained hopes of creating a party which, in the event of the death of Pitt, then daily expected, would forward her ambitious

views. Whether this surmise was just I do not pretend to say; but she certainly did not succeed, that event having passed off during our stay without any movement in her favour.

      Amidst this conflicting interest of parties, we were gratified to observe the greatest cordiaUty between the chiefs and the Enghsh and American residents, neither of whom took part in these state quarrels. To strengthen this feeling, a public dinner was given by the officers of the Blossom and myself to the king and all the royal family, the consuls, the chiefs, and the principal merchants resident in the place. On this occasion, the king was received with the honours due to his rank. He was dressed in full uniform, and altogether made a very elegant appearance. His behaviour at table was marked with the greatest propriety, and though he seemed fully aware of the superiority of Europeans, he appeared at the same time conscious that the attentions he received were no more than a just tribute to his rank. Boki, the regent, Koanoa, the colonel of the troops, and Manuia, the captain of the port, were dressed in the Windsor uniform; and Kahumana, and the two female chiefs next in rank, were arrayed in silk dresses, and had expended a profusion of lavender water upon their cambric handkerchiefs. Many loyal and patriotic toasts succeeded the dinner, some of which were proposed by Boki, in compliment to the king of England and the president of the United States, between both of whom and his royal protégé he expressed a hope that the warmest friendship would always subsist. The chiefs drank to the health of several persons who had shown them attention in London, and in compliment to the ladies of England proposed as a toast,

"The pretty girls of the Adelphi." Throughout the day the islanders acquitted themselves very creditably, and their conduct showed a close observance of European manners.

      A few days afterwards the king gave an entertainment, at which his guests were seated at a long table spread in the European style, and furnished with some very good wines. Among other good things we had Leuhow, a dish of such delicious quality that excursions are occasionally made to the plantations for the pleasure of dining upon it; and, from this circumstance, a picnic and a Leuhow party have become nearly synonymous. The ingredients of the dish are generally the tops of the taro plant and mullet which have been fattened in ponds; these are wrapped in large leaves and baked in the ground, though sometimes fowls and pork are used. In order to amuse us, the king had also assembled several dancers and the best bards in the island; and we had the pleasure of witnessing some native performances, which were the more interesting, as these entertainments will shortly lose all their originality by the introduction of foreign customs. On the present occasion, indeed, it was difficult to procure performers of any celebrity, and both bards and dancers were sent for from a considerable distance; and even then only two of the latter were considered worth our notice. The performance opened with a song in honour of Tamehameha, to which succeeded an account of the visit of Rio Rio and his queen to England; their motives for undertaking the voyage were explained; their parting with their friends at Woahoo; their sea-sickness; their landing in England; the king's attempts to speak English; the beautiful women of this country; and

the sickness and death of the youthful royal pair, were described with much humour, good-nature, and feeling.

      The natives were delighted with this performance, especially with that part which exhibited the sea-sickness, and the efforts of the king to speak English; but our slight acquaintance with the language did not enable us fully to appreciate the allusions. In the next performance, however, this defect was less felt. The song was executed by three celebrated bards, whose gray beards hung down upon their breasts: they were clothed in their rude native costume, and each had the under part of his right arm tattooed in straight lines from the wrist to the armpit. They accompanied themselves upon drums made of two gourds neatly joined together, and ornamented with black devices. Each bard had one of these instruments attached to his left wrist by a cord; the instrument was placed upon a cushion, and the performer throughout measured time by beating with his right hand upon the aperture of the gourd. The subject related to the illustrious Tamehameha, whose warlike exploits are the constant theme of these people. Occasionally the bards seemed to be inspired; they struck their left breasts violently with the palms of their hands, and performed a number of evolutions with their drums, all of which were executed simultaneously, and with ease, decision, and grace. On the whole it was an exhibition very creditable to the talents of the performers. To this succeeded several dances: the first, performed by a native of Atooi, was recommended principally by a display of muscular energy; the next was executed by a man who was esteemed the most accomphshed actor of his time in

Woahoo, and the son of the most celebrated dancer the islands ever had. He wore an abundance of native cloth, variously stained, wrapped about his waist, and grass ornaments fixed upon his legs above the ancles. A garland of green leaves passed over his right shoulder and under his left arm, and a wreath of yellow blossoms, very commonly worn in the Sandwich Islands, was wound twice round his head. Unlike the former dance, the merit of this consisted in an exhibition of graceful action, and a repetition of elegant and unconstrained movements.

      The dance of the females was spoiled by a mistaken refinement, which prevented their appearing, as formerly, with no other dress than a covering to the hips, and a simple garland of flowers upon the head; instead of this they were provided with frilled chemises, which so far from taking away the appearance of indecency, produced an opposite effect, and at once gave the performance a stamp of indelicacy. In this dance, which by the way is the only one the females of these islands have, they ranged themselves in a line, and began swinging the arms carelessly, but not ungracefully, from side to side; they then proceeded to the more active part of the dance, the principal art of which consisted in twisting the loins without moving the feet or the bust. After fatiguing themselves in accomplishing this to the satisfaction of the spectators, they jumped sidewise, still twisting their bodies, and accompanying their actions with a chorus, the words of which we supposed bore some allusion to the performance. We had afterwards a sham-fight with short spears, wherein very little skill was exhibited, and, compared with the dexterity of the warlike Tamehameha, who is said by Vancouver to have successfully

evaded six spears thrown at him at the same instant, the present representation was quite contemptible. These exercises are now seldom practised, and in a short time, no doubt, both they and the dances will cease to be exhibited.

      On the 12th of February, we received the melancholy intelligence of the death of Krymakoo, who had long suffered under a dropsical complaint, for which he had undergone frequent operations. Only four days previously he went to bathe in the sea at Kairua, in Owyhee, and on coming out of the water he was taken ill, and died very soon afterwards. He was at an advanced age, and had been present at the death of our immortal countryman in Karakakoa Bay, and perfectly recollected that fatal transaction. Krymakoo, or, as he was more generally called, Pitt, from the circumstance of his being a contemporary prime minister with our great statesman, became a protege of Tamehameha shortly after the departure of Cook's ships. He is first introduced to our notice by Vancouver, who particularly remarks his superior manners and conduct. His life was devoted to the advantage of his country, and to the support of his illustrious patron, in whoso service he distinguished himself alike as a warrior and a counsellor. Intelligent, faithful, and brave, he was confided in and beloved by his king and his countrymen, and he was a chief in whom the foreign residents placed implicit reliance. His ardent spirit and anxiety for the welfare of his country led Tamehameha on one or two occasions of insurrection to suspect his fidehty, and in order to put it to the test he is said to have deprived him for the time of his estates; an act of injustice, calculated rather to increase than to allay any dissatisfaction that might have

existed in his mind. Pitt, nevertheless, remained faithful, and fought by the side of his patron. After the death of Tamehameha, he enjoyed almost sovereign power, which he employed to the benefit and civilization of his countrymen. His command of temper was not less praiseworthy than his other virtues. On the occasion of some misunderstanding between the missionaries and the seamen of an American vessel, the crew went on shore with the view of burning Mr. Bingham's house, but mistaking the place, they set fire to one belonging to Pitt. The natives immediately flew to protect the property of their favourite chief, and a serious quarrel was about to take place, to the disadvantage of the Americans, when Pitt, who had escaped the flames, harangued the mob with the greatest composure, induced them to desist from acts of violence, and persuaded the crew, who by this time had discovered their mistake, to return to their vessel. It has been asserted of Pitt that he was extremely ambitious; but his ambition seems to have had no other object than the welfare of his country: had he aspired to the crown, there were many favourable opportunities of which he might have availed himself without much risk of failure, of which the death of Tamehameha, the revolt of Kekoakalane, the insurrection of Atooi and others are sufficient instances. He left one son, whom he was very anxious to have educated in England, and pressed his request so earnestly that I had consented to take him on board the Blossom, but the vessel which was sent to bring him from Owyhee returned hastily with the news of the death of the chief, which frustrated the plan. Immediately this event was known the flags of the forts and the shipping were lowered half-mast, and the shores of the bay resounded with the wailings of the inhabitants.

      It had been supposed that the ambition and jealousy of Kahumana and the conflicting interests of the chiefs would have displayed themselves in insurrection on this occasion, and that the disaffected chiefs would have availed themselves of this moment to remove the supreme power from the hands of the young king; but whatever results this melancholy event might have produced had it occurred at an earlier date, nothing was now attempted. Boki, however, thought it prudent to assemble the troops in the fort, and the Blossom was put in readiness to preserve order, if necessary, and to receive the foreign residents, should their safety require it. Anxious to witness the effect of this occurrence upon the court, I immediately paid a visit of condolence to Kahumana, who was seated amidst a motley assemblage of attendants, looking very sorrowful. It appeared, however, from the following incident, that the sincerity of her grief was questionable. Happening to cast her eye upon a Bramah inkstand which I was conveying to the observatory, she seized it with both hands, and declared, her countenance brightening into a smile, how much she should like to have it. As it was the only one I possessed, I did not intend at first to gratify her majesty's wishes, but she fairly tore it from me: so that, making a virtue of necessity, I presented it to her. After bestowing some praise upon the invention, she passed it to Karui, a female chief next in rank to herself, and then dismissing her pleasant looks, she resumed her sorrow, and convinced every person present that she was quite an adept in this barbarous custom of her country.

      Many of the court seemed to consider this moment one of apprehension, and every person who ap-

preached the queen's ahode was at first supposed to be the bearer of the news of some insurrection or other convulsion of the state. As he entered the room, therefore, there was a dead silence; but when it was found that these visits were made merely to inquire after the health of the queen, the wailing, as if it had suffered by the disappointment, burst forth with redoubled energy. Kahumana herself evidently anticipated some disturbance, for she whispered to me to be upon my guard, as there was a probability that the people would be mischievous. Nothing, however, occurred to disturb the tranquillity of the town but the wailing around the royal abode.

      It is unnecessary here to describe many instances of the extent to which this hypocritical affectation of grief was carried; suffice it to say, that several persons, as if determined to perpetuate the barbarous practice of self-mutilation, knocked out their front teeth with hammers.

      The queen almost immediately after the death of her brother embarked for Owyhee in a native schooner, to the great satisfaction of the chiefs and the European residents in Woahoo. As it was probably the last time she would see us, she was complimented with a royal salute on leaving the harbour.

Further Remarks on the Inhabitants — Treaty of Alliance — Climate — Medicinal Properties of the Ava — Supplies — Departure — Passage to China — Ladrone and Bashee Islands — Arrival at Macao — Transactions there — Departure — Botel Tobago Xima — Arrival at the Great Loo Choo.

      On the return of the ship to the Sandwich Islands the chiefs were very anxious to learn where she had been, and to be informed whether in some of the countries she had visited, the produce of their dominions might not find a favourable market. Kahumana, in particular, was so much interested in these inquiries that she condescended to direct her attention to them, and laid aside a missionary book with which she had been instructing her mind while the back part of her body was undergoing the soothing operation of being pinched by one of her female attendants. The conversation happening to turn upon Bird Island, Boki, on hearing it was so near to the Sandwich group, meditated its addition to the dominions of the king, no doubt under the impression of its being similar to one of the Sandwich Islands, and was greatly disappointed when informed that the island was not worth his possession. The account of the high price of sugar in California quite put him in good humour with his sugar-mills, which for some

time past had been a subject of annoyance to him, in consequence of the expense incurred by their continually breaking. All parties were evidently desirous to extend their commerce, and a spirit of enterprise appeared to have diffused itself amongst them, which it is to be hoped may continue.

      During our absence two important political events had occurred — the negociation of a treaty of alliance between Captain Jones, of the United States' sloop Peacock, on the part of America, and Boki, the regent, on the part of the Sandwich Islands; by which the reception of the American vessels in the Sandwich Islands, on the footing of the most favoured nation, was guaranteed to America in the event of that nation being involved in hostilities with any other power. The other was the resignation of Pitt, who, being aware of his approaching dissolution, retired to Owyhee, and left his brother Boki to act as regent. Boki, who, it may be remembered, accompanied the late king Rio-Rio to England, appears to have derived much benefit from that visit, and on his return to the Sandwich Islands to have become very desirous of improving the condition of his countrymen. He was, however, a less active governor than Pitt, and less capable of effecting those changes which experience had nevertheless convinced him were necessary for their advancement.

      The town of Honoruru had now a more cleanly and lively appearance than on our former visit, and the streets, occupied by happy little children who had resumed their games, wore a more cheerful aspect. There was an improvement also in the society of the place, arising apparently from the arrival of some Europeans, particularly of the consul's family, which

was of very great advantage to the females of Woahoo, who seemed anxious to imitate their manners, and were so desirous of becoming acquainted with the method of arranging their different articles of dress, that it required an unusual share of good nature to avoid taking offence at the rude manner in which they gratified their curiosity. The females of Woahoo are shrewd observers of these matters, and on great occasions endeavour to imitate foreigners as nearly as they can; but the powerful influence of fashion has not been yet able entirely to get the better of that other powerful principle, early habit, and the women of the Sandwich Islands in retirement still adhere to their old customs, affording as curious an instance as was ever beheld of barbarism walking hand in hand with civilization.

      The lower class of the inhabitants of Woahoo have varied their dress very little from its original style; though in Honoruru some females may be seen clothed in the cotton of Europe, and even in the silks of China, with green and red shoes, and sometimes with parasols. They obtain these articles as presents from the crews of such ships as touch at the port. In every uncivilized country which has as much foreign intercourse as Woahoo, incongruities must be of frequent occurrence; thus we were daily in the habit of seeing ladies disencumber themselves of their silks, slippers, and parasols, and swim off in fine style to different vessels, carrying their bundles on their heads, and resuming their finery when they got on board. Nor was it less amusing to observe them jump overboard soon after daylight, and continue sporting and swimming about the vessels in the harbour like so many nereids; practices to which they adhere with as

much fondness as ever. Many, however, now think it necessary to put on a bathing gown when they take this recreation.

      The men make very tolerable seamen, and are particularly useful in boats. Accustomed from their infancy to the water, they are as much at home in that element as on land; and having frequently encountered gales of wind at sea in their open canoes, they have no apprehension of them on board a strongly built ship. They are active and honest, and many of them are taken on board merchant ships visiting the islands, as part of their crews.

      In the course of time it is to be hoped that they will become sufficiently enlightened to navigate their own vessels, as they at present depend upon foreigners for the performance of that service. Their vessels are now generally chartered to Americans, who bear a certain proportion of the expenses of the voyage, and have carte blanche to proceed where they please, and to collect, sell, and purchase cargoes at their discretion, and as it may seem most advantageous for themselves and the owners, who divide the profits of the venture at the end of the voyage. Their occupation consists principally in trading with California and the islands of the Pacific, or in making sealing voyages; in which case the skins they obtain are carried to some foreign market, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of a new cargo adapted to the wants of the Sandwich Islanders; such as horses, or furniture, and other household materials. Upon the whole, these returns are said to be by no means equal to the risk and expenses of the voyage; and the ships, being built of slight materials, require constant repair,

and soon wear out: so that their navy, at present, is of no great advantage to the state.

      No duties have as yet been imposed on any goods, either imported or exported, and the only charges made by the government are the port dues, which are very prudently lighter on vessels touching at the islands for refreshments only, than upon those which bring cargoes of merchandize; the charge in the former case is six, and in the latter fifty, cents per ton for the outer anchorage, and ten and sixty cents per ton respectively for the inner anchorage.

      The Sandwich Islanders will apparently make as good soldiers as they do sailors, and are so proud of the honour of being embodied in the corps of the state, that they cannot suffer a greater disgrace than to have the regimentals taken from them and to be turned out of the ranks. They were repeatedly drilled by our serjeant of marines, and though under the disadvantage of not understanding the language in which the word of command was given, they improved quite as much as men in general would have done who had been in the habit of seeing the exercise performed. The inhabitants appear disposed to learn any thing that does not require labour, and soldiering soon became so completely a mania, that the king had the choice of his subjects; and little boys were seen in all parts of the town tossing up a sugar cane, with a "shoulder ump!" and some of the troop, even after being dismissed, would rehearse the lesson of the day by themselves. The islanders have a good idea of acting in concert, derived from their early exercise of the palalu, so interestingly described by Vancouver, in which they were accustomed to

form solid squares; and when engaged, presented a formidable phalanx, which it was not easy to force.

      Among other services which we performed for the king was an inspection of his cannon in the forts, some of which were so corroded, that in all probability their discharge would have been productive of serious accidents to some of his subjects. We also furnished him with twenty tons of stones, which we had taken in at Chamisso Island as ballast, to be used in rebuilding the wall of his mud fort.

      It is unnecessary to describe further the inhabitants of a country which has already been the subject of several volumes. Enough has been said to show that the people are fast imbibing foreign customs, and daily improving both in their manners and dress.

      The harbour of Honoruru is the general rendezvous of all the whale ships employed in the North Pacific Ocean. In the spring time these vessels assemble here to the number of forty or fifty sail at a time, and take on board large supplies of vegetables and fruit, as sea stock, to enable them to remain upon their fishing ground until the autumn, when many of them return to the port. The fresh provision which they procure at these islands is of the greatest advantage to the crews of the whalers, who would otherwise be afflicted with scurvy; and the goods which they give in exchange are very acceptable to the inhabitants. A number of idle dissolute seamen however, discontented with their ships, generally remain behind, and live in the public houses until their money and clothes are expended, or attach themselves to females, and in either way become dependent upon the inhabitants for food. These characters do infinite mischief to the

lower order of the natives, by encouraging them in intemperance, debauchery, idleness, and all kind of vice; nearly sufficient of themselves to counteract all the labours of the missionaries in the diffusion of morality and religion.

      The harbour is formed by a coral reef, which extends along the coast from the Pearl River to Wytiete Bay, but connected with the shore at intervals, so as to impede the passage of vessels. The entrance is very narrow and intricate, and vessels are generally towed in early in the morning, before the breeze freshens. There is a rock nearly in mid-channel upon which the sea generally breaks. Sometimes indeed it breaks quite across the entrance, and renders it necessary at that time, in particular, to employ a pilot. The depth in the channel at high w^ater is about eighteen feet; but as I did not make a plan of this port, in consequence of Lieutenant Malden of the Blonde having so recently executed all that was necessary in that respect, I cannot speak positively. In sailing along the reefs in boats it is necessary to keep at a considerable distance on account of the sudden rise of the sea, which is very apt to fill or upset them when it breaks; and boats should not at any time pull for the entrance until they have gained a proper station off it. I refer to the directions in my nautical remarks for finding this station, and also for further information regarding this port.

      The climate of the Sandwich Islands is more refreshing than that of Otaheite, although the group is scarcely farther from the equator. I am not aware that any register has been kept for a whole year at Otaheite; but at Woahoo this has been done by the gentlemen attached to the missions, from which it ap-

pears that the mean temperature for 1821 was 75°, the maximum 88°, and the minimum 59°, and that the daily range on an average was about 13°. In the last fortnight of May 1826, we found the maximum 83°, and minimum 74°; and in the last fortnight of February 1827, maximum 80°, and minimum 58°.

      The N. E. trade wind, in general, blows strong to the windward of the Sandwich Islands, though for many miles to leeward of them frequent calms and light baffling winds prevail, and impede the navigation between the islands. About the period of the rainy season these winds are interrupted by gales from north-west to south-west, but when they cease the trade resumes its usual course. The duration of this season at Woahoo is from February to May. In 1826 it was over on the 19th of May; and in 1827, it began on the 17th of February. At this period the rains are occasionally very heavy; in 1826 and 1830, I have been informed they were particularly so; at other times, however, the reverse takes place, and from August 1821, to the same month of the following year, it appears by the register of the missionaries that there were but forty days on which rain fell.

      The windward sides of the islands are said to be much colder, and to be subject to more rain than those to leeward. They are also liable to fogs in the spring of the year, while those which are opposite are enjoying sunshine. The mountains, from their height, act upon the atmosphere as powerful condensers, and in particular times of the year are scarcely ever free from mists; these are occasionally detached by gusts of wind and carried over the leeward parts of the island, and it is not unusual in Honoruru to expe-

rience a pretty sharp sprinkling of rain without perceiving any cloud from whence it proceeds.

      Water-spouts not unfrequently visit these islands, one of which I was told burst over the harbour of Honoruru, discharging such a quantity of water that the sea rose three feet. I have repeatedly seen this phenomenon on a small scale carrying a column of dust along the plains near Honoruru, and whirling hats into the air; and I once saw a native boy greatly puzzled to escape from its influence.

      I shall conclude these remarks with some observations on the use and effects of the ava, a root which was formerly in much use in the Pacific, taken from the Journal of the surgeon of the Blossom. The intoxicating property of the ava root, the cutaneous eruption which succeeds its use, and the renovating effect it has upon the constitution, have been noticed ever since the discovery of the Society Islands. Mr. Collie observes, that — "a course of it is most beneficial in renovating constitutions which have been worn out by hard living, long residence in warm climates, without, however, affections of the liver, and by protracted chronic diseases; more especially if the disorder be such as by the humoral pathologists would be attributed to an attenuated or acrid state of the blood." He had an opportunity of seeing "a gentleman, a foreigner, who had undergone a course of it to remove a cutaneous affection said to have been similar to St. Anthony's fire. It had affected at different times almost every part of the body, going from one place to another, but had been particularly obstinate in one leg. He took two doses a day of half a pint each, one before breakfast and one before dinner, by which his appetite was sharpened; and by the time he had

finished his meal a most pleasing state of half intoxication had come on, so that he was just able to go to his couch, where he enjoyed a sound and refreshing sleep.

      "About the second or third week, the eyes became suffused with blood, and the cuticle around them began, to scale, when the whole surface of the body assumed the appearance above described. The first dose is continued for a week or so, according to the disease, and then gradually left off. The skin clears at the same time, and the whole system is highly benefited.

      "I recommended the ava, and had an opportunity of seeing the first effects upon a man affected with chronic superficial ulceration, affecting the greater part of the toes, and the anterior part of the soles of the feet. The legs and feet were oedematous and swelled; the pain was very distressing, preventing any sound repose, and not permitting him even to lie down or bring them up, so as to be near a line horizontal with the body. The ulcers were covered with a tough, viscid, dark-coloured discharge that adhered to the surface, and entirely concealed it. His frame was emaciated, pulse quick and irritable, appetite gone, tongue dry and reddish; he had taken mercurial preparations at two previous periods, as he said, with considerable benefit; but for want of the medicines it was stopped, when the sores were nearly healed. He had been, and I believe still was, addicted to drinking spirituous liquors. The ava was given three times a day with the same immediate effects as before-mentioned, and at the end of ten days the ulcers were clean and healing. From the commencement of the course he had been able to lie down, allowing his feet

to hang over the bed-side: he had slept soundly, and his appetite was good. Could he have procured and applied a suitable dressing for the ulcers, with appropriate support to the oedematous extremities, I have no hesitation in saying that the plan would have succeeded. Even with all these disadvantages, I am inclined to believe that a cure will be effected if he abstains from liquor."

      In this account of the Sandwich Islands, I have avoided touching upon subjects connected with the mythology, traditions, and early manners and customs of the islanders, from a conviction that I could give but an imperfect sketch of them, and from a hope that they will hereafter be laid before the public by the author of Polynesian Researches, who from his intimate knowledge of the language, his long residence in the Pacific, and from the nature of his occupations, has greater opportunities of becoming acquainted with them than any other foreigner. My endeavour has been to give as faithful an account as I could of the government, and of the state of society in the islands at the time of our visit, and of the resources and commerce of the country. Had my occupations been less numerous, I might have done more justice to these subjects; but the determination of the position of the place, and attention to other observations, occupied my time so completely, that I had very little leisure for other pursuits.

      The results of the observations that were made there will be given in the Appendix; and the natural history will form part of two volumes which will shortly appear before the public.

      During the absence of the ship from the Sandwich Islands, Captain Charlton, the consul, had succeeded

in procuring a supply of salt provision for her. This was the more opportune, as the meat which had been corned in California was found on examination to be so bad that it was necessary to throw the whole of it overboard. We at first imagined that this failure proceeded from our ignorance of the method of curing the meat, but that which had been prepared at Monterey, by a person brought up to the business, was found to be equally bad; and the failure, in all probability, arose from the heated and feverish state in which the animals were slaughtered. We frequently remonstrated with the governor of San Francisco against being obliged to kill the animals in this state, and begged he would have them penned up until the following day, as they were quite wild, had been harassed with lassos, and dragged many miles by tame bullocks. We did not however succeed, and if the animals were not slaughtered as they were delivered into our charge, they either made their escape, or, as was the case with several, broke their necks in their struggles for freedom. The present supply of provision was consequently of the greatest importance. In addition to this we procured a few other stores, but not sufficient for our purpose, and there were no medicines to be had, so that it was still necessary to proceed to China.

      As soon as the ship was ready for sea, therefore, we endeavoured to sail, but the wind about this time blew from the south-west, and kept us imprisoned a fortnight; the harbour of Honoruru being so difficult of egress, that, unless the wind be fair, or there be a perfect calm, a vessel cannot proceed to sea. On the 4th of March, however, we took our leave of the authorities and residents of the place, from both of

whom we had received the greatest attention, and put to sea on our way to Macao.

      Upon leaving the Sandwich Ishinds I directed the course to the southward; and next day, having gained the lstitude of 18° 32' N., I stood to the westward, with the intention of pursuing the above-mentioned parallel as far as the Ladrone Islands. I did this with a view of keeping fairly within the limit of the trade wind, which, at the season of the year in which this passage was made, is frequently variable in a higher latitude, and even subject to interruptions from strong north-westerly winds. I was also desirous of ascertaining the position of an island bearing the name of Wake's Island, upon Arrowsmith's chart, situated directly in the route between the Sandwich Islands and China.

Frederick W. Beechey
      Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Beering's Strait, to Co-Operate with the Polar Expeditions: Performed in His Majesty's Ship Blossom, Under the Command of Captain F. W. Beechey, R. N. in the Years 1825, 26, 27, 28. Published by authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. In two volumes.
  London: Henry Colburn and Richard Bentley, 1831.
Vol. 2, pp.88-124.

      This volume is available at the Internet Archive.

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