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CHAPTER X.

The Nudeshda and Neva sail from the Sandwich Islands — Fruitless Search for the Island Owiha Polto — Arrival off the Coast of Owaihi — Remarkable Error in the Chronometers of both Ships — Total want of Provisions — Mowna Roa — Description of the Inhabitants of the Samlwich Islands — The Nadeshda separates from the Neva and sails for Kamtschatka — Experiments on the Temperature of the Sea — Fruitless Endeatours to find the Land discovered by the Spaniards to the East of Japan — Arrival off the Coust of Kamtschatka — Situation of Shipunskoy Noss — The Nadeshda enters the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.

      The wind continued fresh from N. E. and N. E. by E. and a heavy swell from the N. E. occasioned a very unpleasant motion to the ship, which now, for the first time, appeared to have sprung a leak; so large a one, indeed, that we were frequently obliged to work at the pump two and three times a day. It was not, however, dangerous, and was owing to the ship being considerably lighter than when we left Europe, and consequently much higher out of the water. The oakum with which the seams were caulked on the waterstreak was become quite rotten; and the water forced a passage in on the least motion of the ship. This evil could not be remedied until our arrival at Kamtschatka, and I only lamented that the extreme heat should render the operation of pumping so very fatiguing to our people.

      At six o'clock on Thursday morning, the 7th June, I conceived myself to be only a very short distance from the east end of Owaihi, and therefore altered my course from N. N. W. to N. W. by W. At half past eight we saw land, and immediately perceived it to be Owaihi, distant about thirty-six miles, bearing N. W.; yet we could not distinguish Mowna Roa. At noon we were in lat. 19° 10'. The east point of Owaihi, in lat. 19° 34', bore nearly due N. As this point has been very correctly laid down according to the observations of Captain Cook, and is admitted as the true longitude by his disciple and follower Vancouver, we had a very favourable opportunity of ascertaining the error of our watches. The longitude of the east point was

      The observations taken by Captains Cook and Vancouver leave no doubt with regard to the true longitude, and our lunar observations on the 4th and on the 11th June, the day after we quitted Owaihi, perfectly confirmed them. The first made the error of No. 128 to be 39', and the latter 35' too much to the east. We could now only correct the longitude of our watches by this new discovered difference; and assume a new rate for them in the best manner we are able at sea. It is very remarkable that the error in all the six watches on board both the ships, and four of which were by Arnold, should in this short run have happened on the same side. The cooler temperature of the air could hardly have produced this alteration in their rate, as the difference since we sailed was not two degrees and a half. The longitude by the ship's reckoning was 150° 54', and in the space of twenty-one days the current had carried us 4° 2' to the westward, on an average, about eleven miles a day.

      The almost total want of animal stock on the island of Nukahiwa, where we had been able to procure only seven hogs of about 70 or 80 lbs. weight, for both ships, made it my duty to proceed to the Sandwich islands, where I reckoned with some degree of certainty, upon procuring a plentiful supply of provisions. My people were all healthy: but in a long voyage like this, during which, except the first weeks after our departure from Brazil, they had had no other provisions than salt meat, I naturally expected from day to day to see some symp-

toms of scurvy break out among them, in spite of all my precautions. As we should be obliged to remain at least a month in Kamtschatka, it was necessary to hasten our voyage thither, in order to arrive at Nangasaky before the end of the month of September, as a change in the monsoon very frequently takes place off the coast of Japan about the middle of that month. But I had the health of my people to preserve, which with me was above all other consideration; and I now abandoned my proposed plan of holding a new course from the Washington islands to Kamtschatka, in the hopes of making some new discovery; and determined, in order to lose as little time as possible, not to come to an anchor anywhere, but merely to bring-to for a couple of days off the coast of Owaihi, from whence, according to the account of all navigators who have touched at this island, the natives will come out fifteen or eighteen miles to sea, to barter their provisions against European goods. For this reason we first stood in for the S. E. coast of Owaihi, hoping, by sailing quite round the island, to obtain a greater supply. It will soon appear how cruelly we were deceived in our calculations.

      After standing-in to about six miles from the shore, I put the ship about, and steered along the coast under nothing but our topsails, heaving-to as soon as we saw any canoes put off to us. Their cargoes, however, did not in the least answer my expectations. Some potatoes, half a dozen cocoa nuts, and a small sucking pig, were all that I was able to procure out of six canoes; and these we did not obtain without difficulty, and at a very high price, as the venders would take nothing but cloth in payment, and I had not a yard on board to dispose of.

Stuffs, of the manufacture of the island, they had in abundance for sale; but as my wish was to procure provisions, I forbad any one from buying them. An old man brought us quite a young girl, probably his daughter, whom I conceived, perhaps incorrectly, from her awkward behaviour, and, at least, apparent modesty, to be still innocent; but he had the mortification which he so richly deserved, of offering his goods in vain.

      The weather was unsteady, and accompanied by rain and some gusts of wind, and no more canoes putting off from the shore, I stood away from the island, steering S. S. E. with a fresh easterly wind. The scarcity of provisions experienced here surprised me, as the part of Owaihi where we touched seemed to be uncommonly well cultivated. The island had a beautiful appearance; in this respect none of the Washington islands is at all to be compared with it. The whole shore was covered with cocoa trees; and the number of houses and plantations, and of canoes that we distinguished very plainly upon the beach, seemed to indicate a great population. From the east end where the land is flat, it rises gradually to the foot of the mountain Mowna Roa, which, according to Dr. Horner's admeasurement, was 2254 toises high, consequently 350 toises more than the Pik of Teneriffe. It is in its form the most extraordinary mountain in the world; and may be reckoned among the highest: it is properly called a Table Mountain; for the summit, which at this time of the year is quite free from snow, forms a perfect flat, saving an almost imperceptible height on the east side. Upon the first day of our arrival it was only clear for a few moments of the clouds that enveloped it during the greatest part of the day; but in

the course of the next two days we had frequent opportunities of admiring this astonishing mass, whose summit occupies a space of 13,000 feet. We had not once a perfect view of the whole mountain; nor can this happen but very seldom; for when the upper part of it was free from mist, the center was surrounded by clouds that appeared never to separate, and seemed to be suspended from the majestic summit which rose above them. In the morning, when the air is still clear and free from mist, you have the best view of this mountain.

      From what we were able to judge by the few natives who came on board, they are not of the handsomest, compared with the people of Nukahiwa. They are shorter and ill-proportioned, their colour is much darker, and their bodies are scarcely tatooed at all. Among those who came off to us there was hardly one whose skin was not scarred, either in consequence of the venereal disease or of the use of the kava; though among the lower or poorer classes, these marks could not arise from the latter cause. Decided as the advantage appeared to be in favour of the Nukahiwer in a physical point of view, the native of Owaihi seemed equally superior to his more southern neighbour in mental acquirements. A constant intercourse with Europeans, particularly Englishmen, of whom there are several in the island, may have contributed not a little to produce this effect. Cheerfulness, activity, and a lively quick eye, we perceived more or less in all whom we had on this day any occasion to treat with. The construction of their canoes was decidedly superior to that of the people of Nukahiwa, and they manage them with a skill in which the latter, to whom the sea does not at all appear a natural element, are very far behind

      At day-break the next morning, I steered for the southern point of Owaihi, where, by Cook's account, there is a large village, from which a great quantity of provisions were brought to him; and I hoped at this place, as well as along the whole coast, to be able to procure an abundant supply, with tolerable facility. At about eleven we weathered this point, which is rendered conspicuous by a low broken rock, and by being surrounded with a reef about a hundred fathoms from the shore, over which the sea broke with great violence. By Cook's observations this point is in latitude 18° 53', and longitude 155° 45'. At noon it bore S. E. 78° distant, at the most, about

three miles. Dr. Horner and Lieutenant Löwenstern took an observation of the latitude, and found it 18° 54' 45" N. agreeing very nearly with that of Captain Cook. With regard to the longitude, we found the error of our watches to be one minute less than it was the day before. As soon as we perceived the above mentioned village we lay-by, and, as the wind was fresh, at a distance of not more than two miles from the shore. After waiting two hours three canoes came off to us: in the first was a large hog that certainly did not weigh less than a hundred pounds, and occasioned us no small satisfaction. I already destined it for a Sunday dinner for my crew, and my mortification was therefore the greater, at not being able to purchase even this, the only one which was brought on board. I offered them every thing I had to dispose of; the best hatchets, knives and scissars, whole pieces of stuff, and a complete suit of clothes were refused; the possessor demanding a large cloth mantle capable of covering him from head to foot, and with which we had not the means of supplying him. From one of the other canoes I purchased a small sucking pig, the only article in the way of provisions, that I procured from these three canoes. A very immodest dressed up girl, who spoke a little English, experienced the same fate, as the one who had been brought to us the day before. This day's barter, which turned out much worse than I could have calculated upon, convinced me that no provisions were to be procured without cloth, an article which they demanded for the least thing, even in Karakakua; and perhaps there less importunately than in this place, as luxury must naturally be carried to a higher pitch at the residence of the well known Tamahama, the king of Owaihi. What an astonishing change must have taken place in the circumstances of the

natives of this island, in the short space of ten or twelve years! Tianna,^* whom Meares in 1789 carried with him to China, never inquired during his stay at Canton, the price of any wares otherwise than by asking, How much iron do you give for this? So greatly was he impressed, even after a year's intercourse with Europeans, with the value of iron. At present the natives of Owaihi appeared almost to despise this metal, and they scarcely deigned to look upon even the most necessary tools. Nothing would satisfy them that did not flatter their vanity.

      As we perceived no other boats putting off to us, I steered under very easy sail along the south-west side of the island until six o'clock, and then south, in order to keep away from the land during the night. Although I had but very little hopes of procuring provisions, I resolved not to give over my endeavours until I had tried upon the west coast, and in the vicinity of Karakakua. About one o'clock, therefore, the next morning, I put the ship about to the northward, and towards half past four Mowna Roa bore N. N. E. and the south point of Owaihi N. E. by E. A thick mist however covered the whole and prevented our seeing the rest of the island, the distance of which was certainly not ten miles. About eight the wind veered to the northward, and was so moderate that even had it been fair, we should have had but little prospect of fetching Karakakua. This unfortunate circumstance, and the uncertainty whether we should even there succeed according to our wishes, made me determine upon losing no more time,

and on quitting the coast immediately for Kamtschatka, where we should arrive without fail about the middle of July. However, before I made known this determination, I directed Dr. Espenberg carefully to examine the whole crew, and he did not find the least symptom of scurvy upon any one of them. Had he perceived any marks of this complaint, I should infallibly have gone to Karakakua, even if it had occasioned us the loss of a week, a space of time which in our actual circumstances was of the greatest importance to us; for I had bound myself, upon changing the plan of our voyage, to get to Nangasaky this same year; and after the north-east monsoon should set in, I conceived I could not do this without difficulty. I acquainted my officers with my resolution to quit Owaihi, and my motive for so doing. Although they had all rejoiced at the prospect of our stay at Karakakua, and were naturally anxious to obtain fresh provisions, no other kind having come to our table during three months, than what were cooked for the ship's company; they appeared to be all perfectly satisfied with my determination. Captain Lisianskoy, whose time was not of equal consequence to him, resolved, on the other hand, to run into Karakakua bay for a few days, and then continue his voyage to Kodiac.

      About six in the evening the southernmost point of Owaihi bore N. E. 87°: the east side of Mowna Roa N. E. 52°. These I made my point of departure, which by Vancouver's chart was latitude 13° 58' and longitude 156° 20'. About half past seven we parted from the Neva, with a fresh east wind that had sprung up after some hours calm; I steered south-west, as it was my intention to sail in the parallel of 17° to the 180th degree

of longitude, which I was induced to do for two reasons: first, because in the parallels of 16° and 17° the trade winds are fresher than in the 20th or 21st degree; and secondly, because this course would lie nearly in the middle between that pursued by Captain Clerke in 1779, and the course steered by all merchant ships in their passage from the Sandwich islands to China;^* and this gave us a chance of making some new discovery.

Adam Johann von Krusenstern,
Ivan Fedorovich Kruzenshtern
      Voyage Round the World, in the Years 1803, 1804, 1805, & 1806, by order of His Imperial Majesty Alexander the First on Board the Ships Nadeshda and Neva, under the command of Captain A. J. Von Krusenstern, of the Imperial Navy.
  Two Volumes.
  Translated from the original German by Richard Belgrave Hoppner, Esq.
  Vol. I, p.185 & PP. 190-199.
  London: John Murray, 1813.

      This extract is from a volume available at Google Books.

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