Aug 8, 1792 Home Providence Log Aug 10, 1792

Providence Logbook Aug 9, 1792

Remarks Thursday 9th August 1792

Remarks

Untill we advanced towards the Islands and opened the Channel fairly, it appeared full of breakers. Besides what were round the Shores, there were some broken patches off the West part of U, every way else the passage was fair about 5 Miles wide. The Reefs were steep too, for we could not find any bottom, and from the extreme parts of the Island they extended a long way, about 2 Miles.

We ranged along the Shore of V Island and on its West side open to a Valley, formed by the highest lands of the Island, appeared an excellent Harbour or Bay for Ships. Another likely place was seen on the South side. It was at this time nearly dark, I was therefore obliged to give up the Idea of examing [examining] those places, and to get a little Sea room for the Night, the land extending from the WSW round by the North to the Island U. The most Southerly Land was very high and extensive to what the others were, it was called Z.

At day light I made Sail to the Southward. A very high Mountain was seen on the Island Z, and from its likeness was called the Cockscomb, the whole of this Island is very Mountainous, and its SW part terminated as a very high Cape sloping towards the South. An Island lies to the Southward of it called No. 1.

The Island Z either joins or forms a part of the largest Islands of this Archipellego, which I passed between in 1789.

A land continued to present itself in the South, I determined to sail round its Souther extremity, altho it might cost me a day to accomplish it.

The nearer we came to the Shore of Island V the more we became delighted with the Country, we sailed within a Mile of the Reef which surrounds the Shore, inside the Reef the Water is perfectly smooth and Shoal, and some fine Sandy Beaches. There are some openings in the Reef fit for Boats. About the Reef we saw many Natives striking of fish and tracking their Cannoes about with Poles. On the Shore the Natives were numerous. As we Sailed along they followed us waving peices of White Cloth. In general they had a peice round their heads, and a Lance or Spear in their hands. Nothing could exceed the beauty of the Country at this time. It was cultivated far up into the Mountains in a regular and pretty manner. Fine Plantain Walks and Shades of Cocoa Nutt and other Trees were rendered more picturesque by the dwellings that were among them.

(a)

It was an uncommon sight in this Sea to see a well built Villiage on an emminence – here, was a considerable one delightfully situated on the Brow of a Hill amidst a charming grove of Trees. Some Houses and Plantations were a considerable way up the Mountains. The Houses were all thatched round the Sides and Top with one opening or Door Way. Some (a) of them resembled those of the Friendly Islands with the Roof exceeding or overhanging the Base, and the sides a great inclination outwards, so that the Floor is considerably less than the bounds of the roof, others were something like the Sandwich Island Houses. Every thing seemed to show they were industrious and social People, they are notwithstanding much accustomed to War, for their signals were numerous to collect their whole force. On an elevated Hill (on the North part of the Island) where we saw a number of the Natives, two Signals were made by Flags hoisted to two detached Cocoa Nutt Trees, no doubt to alarm the whole Island. On this Hill we could observe a well beaten Road and a Single Hutt which I thought was for the purpose of a Watch House.

They appeared very desirous to have an intercourse with us, and I regretted very much that with the Night I was obliged to relinquish it. Three Cannoes came after us, but as they were too late in leaving the Shore, so they failed of coming up with the Ship. In the first Cannoe were seven Men, they were of a very dark Colour, almost a Black, their Heads bound round with White Cloth, had Pearl Oyster Shells pendant from the Neck. One Man stood in the Bow of the Cannoe holding up a Club such as I got at the last Island, and made signs for us to stop and Trade with them. Their Clothing was the common Marro, a strip of Cloth round their Hips. The colour of these Men must certainly have been artificial, for in the other Cannoes the People were rather lighter coloured than the Otaheiteans. Their Hair was bushy. These Men also showed much desire to trade with us, and held up Cloth to induce us to stop for them. In one of the Cannoes they used a Large Paddle to scull with as the Friendly Islanders do, and without any material error I believe we may consider them to be the same kind of People.

It appeared indifferent to them on which side the Outriggers were on, as I observed at the last Island. The form of the Cannoe was the same and the double Cannoe secured by Cross pieces in the common way.

At Whytootackee I observed the Natives blacked their Skin with Grease and Smut, here they certainly do the same. It is an undoubted mark of ferocity.

This Island (Island V) has about 7 Leagues Sea coast. Its North point lies in 17°..58′S and Longitude 179°..40′E it was first seen on the 7th at Noon SWbW and was then distant 15 Leagues.

The Island U is very like V, but not above half its size altho prettily diversified with high Grounds and cultivation.

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