Sandwich Islands  Notes  Source  Whalesite

      With a fine trade breeze we steered West by South, in order to make Owhyhee, the principal of the Sandwich Tuesday 23. Islands. Our latitude on the 23d was 19° 10' North, and 153° 21' longitude. In this situation we found a current setting to the Southward.

      I expected to have made the land before night came on; but towards evening the weather turned very hazy, on which we shortened sail, and brought-to during the night. At daylight in the morning of the 24th, we bore away and made sail, and at seven o'clock Owhyhee made its appearance, the East point bearing North West by West, about six leagues distant. Soon afterwards, having an uninterrupted view of the island, I kept away along shore down the South side, and at noon the East point bore North half West, three leagues distant. The East and South East parts of this island appear fertile and very pleasant; but that part which lies South and South West is quite barren, and seems to be covered with a kind of lava.

      By two o'clock, being within three miles of the land, and running along shore with a moderate breeze, a number of the natives came off in their canoes, and brought with them some small hogs and a few plantains, which

I bought for beads and small pieces of iron. A number of their fishing lines were purchased, many of which were from three to four hundred fathoms long, and perfectly well made. Some were made with two and others with three strands, and much stronger than our lines of twice the size.

Range along the Coast of Owhyhee,—Arrival in Karakakooa Bay,—Unruly Behaviour of the Natives,—Leave Karakakooa Bay—Refreshments procured along the Coast,—Disappointed in coming to anchor at Morotoi,—Arrive at Woahoo,—Fruitless Search for a Watering place,—Supplied with Water by the Natives,—Refreshments obtained.—Departure from Woahoo,—Account of the present Government amongst the Sandwich Islands.—Pass Atoui,—Arrival at Oneehow,—Transactions there.

      The Indians traded with cheerfulness, and did not shew any disposition to act dishonestly: after disposing of every thing they had got to sell, and viewing the ship all round, they returned to the shore perfectly well pleased. As Karakakooa Bay was the only harbour we knew of at Owhyhee, I determined to make it as soon as possible; and at eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 25th we passed the South point; but soon afterwards the wind grew variable, and frequently blew in squalls.

      During the afternoon we stood to the Northward along the West side of the island; and being well in with the land, a number of canoes came off, bringing hogs and other refreshments, which we chiefly purchased with small pieces of iron. I had conceived hopes that we should

have come to anchor in Karakakooa Bay this evening; but there was very little wind, and that little was unfavourable: indeed the trade-wind is not to be expected after hauling round the South point of the island, as the high land to the Eastward entirely breaks it off, and light breezes prevail from the Northward and Westward.

      Soon after the day was closed in we observed a great number of fires all along shore, and I was inclined to think they were lighted in order to alarm the country: indeed it is customary for the natives at this island to light fires when they make offerings to their gods for success in war; and this might possibly be the cafe at present; but I had observed a shyness in the natives the nearer we approached Karakakooa; they frequently enquired after captain King, and seemed by their behaviour to think that we were come to revenge the death of captain Cook.

      Soon after daylight on the 26th, Karakakooa bore North East by East, about six leagues distant; and a light breeze springing up at North West, we stood in for the bay. In the forenoon an inferior chief came on board, from whom I learned that Tereeoboo, who was king of Owhyhee when we last were at that island, was dead; and that the present king's name was Maiha Maiha. He importuned me very strongly to go on shore; but on my declining it, and making him a present, he informed me that Maiha Maiha would pay me a visit on the morrow; but I paid little regard to this piece of intelligence, as it was not likely that Maiha Maiha would venture on board after the active part he took in that unfortunate affray which terminated in the much-lamented death of captain Cook.

      Many canoes now came along-side, and the people were very importunate to come on board; they behaved in a very daring insolent manner; and it was with difficulty they were prevailed on to quit the ship; however, I bore all this with patience, being unwilling to use violence if it could possibly be avoided; though at the same time I was much afraid from these appearances, that we should not be able to do our business at Karakakooa with ease and safety, particularly to fill our water and get the sick people on shore.

      As we approached the harbour, great numbers of canoes joined us, and many of them hanging by the ship, retarded our progress so much, that it was near four o'clock in the afternoon before we came to an anchor. I moored with the best bower to the Westward in nine fathom water, over a bottom of white sand, and the spare anchor to the Eastward, in seven fathom, over the same bottom. The West point of the bay bore West, and the South point South half West, distant from the beach at the bottom of the bay about a quarter of a mile.

      Soon after our anchor was gone, we were surrounded by an amazing number of the natives, both in canoes and in the water; they grew very troublesome, constantly crawling up the cable and the ship's sides; so that most of the seamen were employed in keeping the vessel clear, and it was not without some difficulty that we got moored.

      During this time no chief who had any command on the people made his appearance, which was rather unfortunate; for if I could have got a person of consequence

on board, he would have kept the rest in order, and our business would have been carried on with ease and dispatch.

      In the course of the afternoon we procured a number of fine hogs, and a good quantity of salt, together with plantains, potatoes, and taro, which last was the finest I ever saw, and not in the least inferior to yams: bread-fruit was scarce, and the little we got was not in a perfect state; so that I conclude this is not the proper season for it.

      At night fires were lighted all round the bay, and the people on shore were in constant motion; several canoes continued near the ship, and about midnight one of the natives brought off a lighted torch, seemingly with an intention of setting fire to the vessel: on our driving him away, he paddled to the Queen Charlotte, but there they were equally on their guard; on which he again went on shore.

      By daylight the next morning we were visited by a vast multitude of the natives; but still no chief was to be seen who had power sufficient to keep them in order, and they grew so daring and insolent, that I was under the necessity of placing centinels with cutlasses to prevent their boarding us.

      This unexpected reception convinced me that we could do nothing with safety on shore without the protection of a strong guard; and our taking a step of that kind might probably be attended with fatal consequences; so that I

determined to leave Karakakooa as soon as possible. I acquainted captain Dixon with my intention of sailing, and the reasons I had for it: his opinion respecting the disposition of the inhabitants exactly agreed with my own.

      Notwithstanding the vast concourse of Indians that were assembled about the ships, we saw great numbers collected in bodies on shore; some on the beach, and others on the top of a hill which commands the watering-place; and there appeared to be many chiefs among them.

      At nine o'clock I gave orders to unmoor, but the crowd of people around the ship was so great, that our boats could scarcely pass to the buoys: in this situation it was absolutely necessary for us to drive them away, and I was desirous of using some method that would frighten, without hurting them; accordingly, after drawing out the shot, we fired six four-pounders and six swivels; at the same time our colours were hoisted, and the ship tabooed, by hoisting a white flag at the main-topgallant-mast-head: this had the desired effect; for, immediately on our beginning to fire, the Indians made for the shore with the utmost precipitation; in the hurry and confusion occasioned by this alarm, many canoes were overset; the owners, however, did not stay to right them, but swam immediately on shore.

      We now had an opportunity of unmooring without molestation, and soon after eleven o'clock, having light baffling winds, began to warp out of the bay to the Westward; at five o'clock, judging myself in a good situation to wait for the land-breeze, which usually blows off to-

wards evening, we let go an anchor, and presently were visited by a number of canoes, who brought us some good hogs, a quantity of salt, and vegetables of various kinds.

      At seven o'clock a breeze springing up from the land, we weighed and stood to the South West until our distance from Karakakooa was about three leagues: I then brought-to, with an intention of standing off and on for twenty-four hours, in order to traffic with the natives; being convinced that it is the best and safest method of procuring any refreshments the island of Owhyhee affords.

      At noon we were standing along shore to the Northward, with a light westerly breeze and fine weather. Karakakooa Bay then bore East half South, distant three leagues, and the high land of Mowee North North West.

      Early next morning we were surrounded by canoes, and a brisk trade commenced, in the course of which we purchased a number of fine hogs, and vegetables of various kinds. Many of our people were employed in killing and salting down hogs for sea-store; our present situation being much better calculated for carrying on that business than in harbour; for now we had a fine free air, whereas in Karakakooa Bay the weather is so extremely close and sultry, that there is a great probability of the meat being spoiled even after it is salted.

      Many canoes sill[sic] kept about the ships, and some of the natives brought off water in calabashes, which we purchased for nails. Indeed water now began to be an article of the first consequence to us; our 52d butt being

a-broach, and there was as yet no certainty of our watering amongst these islands: the refreshments, however, that we already had procured, were of great service to the sick people, all of whom daily got better.

      During the night we stood off and on, with variable winds and hazy weather. In the morning of the 29th the Southernmost part of Owhyhee in sight bore South South East half East, twelve leagues distant; the Northernmost part North by East, ten leagues; and the body of Mowee North North West half West, nine leagues distant. The natives of Owhyhee still followed the vessels with hogs and vegetables, and we stood to the North North West under an easy sail, that the canoes might be enabled to keep up with us.

      At six o'clock in the afternoon a fresh breeze sprung up at North East, which brought on a cross swell, and obliged all the canoes to leave us and make for the shore.

      During the night we had fresh gales and cloudy weather, which occasioned us to shorten sail and tack occasionally. Towards morning the weather moderated. At eight o'clock Mowee bore from North half East to East North East, distant four leagues, and the West end of Ranai North North West, two leagues distant.

      The unsettled state of the weather, and the uncertainty of our being able to water the ships at these islands, induced me to put the ship's company to an allowance of water, at the rate of two quarts a-man a-day. Towards noon a few canoes came off from Ranai, but brought nothing of

any consequence to barter. At three o'clock, being about one mile and a half from shore, we sounded with a line of 100 fathom, but got no bottom. The Westernmost point of Morotoi now bore North West by West, eight or nine leagues distant; and soon afterwards a fresh breeze coming on at North East, I stood directly over for that island by six o'clock the West end, which is low and rocky, bore North West, distant three leagues; and I had some hopes of getting round the point, and anchoring in a bay situated on the West side of Morotoi, but the breeze rather sailing, we had not daylight sufficient to accomplish our purpose; on this, we hauled up the courses and brought-to, the Queen Charlotte being considerably astern.

      At half past seven o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being well up, we filled and stood to the South East under the topsails; at the same time the West point of Morotoi bore North West two leagues, and the Easternmost point North East, six leagues distant.

      At three o'clock next morning we wore and stood in for the land; but when daylight came on, I was greatly surprised to find that we had been driven in the night eight or nine leagues to the South West; so that instead of fetching in with the West point of Morotoi, as I expected, the wind being well to the Eastward, I found we scarcely should be able to weather the East point of Woahoo, round which we knew there was anchorage.

      These disappointments mortified me a good deal, as I was very desirous to look for water in the bay on the West

side of Morotoi, where, from the appearance of the land, it was likely we should find some. Had that plan failed, we then should have been able to get round the East point of Woahoo with a large wind; but finding now that it would be a work of some days to get in with the West end of Morotoi, I gave it up, and stood for the East point of Woahoo, which then bore North West, under all the sail we could carry, with a moderate breeze at East North East. For some time appearances were greatly in our favour. Indeed I believe we should easily have fetched round the point; but about ten o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being a considerable way on our lee quarter, I was afraid she would not be able to weather the island, as I could plainly perceive we had a strong current setting to the South West. On this we tacked and stood towards her, and soon afterwards wore and stretched to the Northward. Just at this time the wind hauled round to the Eastward, and we again stood on, in hopes of fetching our intended situation. However, about half past eleven o'clock, the Queen Charlotte drove in shore, and captain Dixon finding he could not weather the point, tacked, which occasioned us to tack immediately afterwards. At noon, the outermost rock off the North East point of Woahoo bore North North West about four leagues, and the Southernmost part of the island in sight South West half West, five miles distant.

      The island of Woahoo between the South East and North East points appears high and craggy, forming into several high rocks, within which there appears to be tolerable shelter; but as the wind blew fresh, and right on

shore, I did not think it prudent to run in with a lee shore to look for anchorage.

      We plied in this uncertain state till noon on the 1st of June, when finding it would be impracticable for us to get round the North East point of the island without wasting more time than could be spared, we bore away for the South East point; and at one o'clock being well up with it, a fine bay made its appearance, which promised to afford good anchorage. We hauled round the point, and stood in for the bay. Soon afterwards, the whale-boat was lowered down, and sent in shore to sound. At half past two o'clock we came to an anchor in the bay, which I distinguished by the name of King George's Bay, in twelve fathom water, over a bottom of speckled sand and broken shells, and moored with the best bower to the Eastward, and a kedge to the Westward. The East point of the bay, which I distinguished by the name of Point Dick, in honour of Sir John Dick, the first patron of this voyage, bore East by North one mile and a half; the West point, which was named Point Rose, after George Rose Esq. secretary of the treasury, the second worthy patron of our undertaking, bore West South West half West, about two leagues, and the bottom of the bay North, two miles distant.

      Soon after our arrival, several canoes came off and brought a few cocoa-nuts and plantains, some sugar-cane and sweet root; in return for which we gave them small pieces of iron and a few trinkets. Towards evening, a fresh breeze coming on at East North East, our visiters left us, and returned on shore.

      Next morning at daylight we had several canoes about the ship, which brought us a few small hogs and some vegetables. Great numbers of both sexes were in the water, impelled by curiosity to pay us a visit, notwithstanding our distance from shore.

      As watering the ships was now become an object of the first consideration, I went on shore early in the morning, accompanied by captain Dixon, in order to find out a convenient spot for that purpose. We landed on some rocks just round Point Dick, quite dry, and met with no opposition from the inhabitants; on the contrary, they received us with great kindness, and answered every question we asked them very readily. On our inquiring for fresh water, they conducted us to some, which was lodged in a kind of bason, formed by the rocks, about fifty yards from the place where we landed; but the quantity was so small, that it would not afford even a temporary supply. On this we continued our inquiries along shore, and were informed that there was no fresh water to be met with but at a considerable distance to the Westward.

      After making the Indians some trifling presents, we returned to the boats, and rowed to the Northward, close to a reef, which appeared to run quite across the bay, about a quarter of a mile distant from the beach. Having proceeded nearly a mile in this direction, a small opening in the reef presented itself, for which we steered. The channel was narrow, but in the middle we had two fathoms water; and after getting through, there was from three to four fathoms over a bottom of fine sand, and good room between the reef and the beach for a number of vessels

to ride at anchor. We landed on a fine sandy beach amidst a vast number of the inhabitants, who all behaved with great order, and never attempted to approach nearer to us than we desired. They informed us that there was no water near our landing-place, but that we should find plenty farther down along shore, and one of the natives accompanied us as a guide: however, our progress was soon impeded by a little salt water river that has a communication with King George's Bay. This putting a stop to our progress by land, we again had recourse to our boats, and attempted to get to the Westward within the reef; but the water was so shallow that it was impracticable; so that we returned through the passage we came in at, and afterwards rowed to the Westward, keeping close along the outside of the reef, until we got near the watering-place pointed out to us by the Indians. In this situation, feeing a small opening in the reef, we made for it; and the moment we entered, a breaker overtook us, which almost. filled and nearly overset our boats. However, through the good management of the steersmen, who were mine and captain Dixon's third mates, we escaped without any misfortune; though we had the mortification, after getting over the reef, to find the water so shoal, that our boats could not get within 200 yards of the shore.

      Under these circumstances, I found that we could not water at this place without an infinite deal of trouble, besides the danger of losing our casks, getting the boats dashed to pieces against the rocks, and the inconvenience of carrying our casks so far amongst a multitude of Indians, which would make it necessary to have an armed force on shore, the ships lying at too great a distance for

them to cover or secure a watering party; I therefore gave up the idea of watering at this spot, and determined to send two boats the first opportunity to examine the Western part of the bay for a good landing place and convenient watering.

      I returned on board at noon, and found a pretty brisk trade carrying on for small hogs, sugar-cane, and vegetables; having given orders to Mr. Hill, on my leaving the ship, to purchase every refreshment which the natives brought alongside.

      No time was now to be lost in coming to some conclusive determination respecting our future transactions; I saw but little probability of watering the ships with our own boats: but captain Dixon, as well as myself, was of opinion, that the Indians might be induced to bring off water to the ships, sufficient at least for a temporary supply. At all events, I knew there was enough in each vessel to serve near three months with proper care, but it was all in the ground tier; I therefore determined to have all our water got to hand, and the ground tier filled with salt water. In the mean time, our spare hands could be well employed in repairing the rigging, and making the vessels in every respect fit for the further prosecution of our voyage, so soon as the crews were well refreshed; and our present situation being the most eligible one we knew of at these islands, we resolved not to quit it before all our business was completed.

      Early in the morning of the 3d I dispatched Mr. Hayward and Mr. White in a boat from each ship to examine

the West part of the bay for a landing-place and fresh water. They likewise had orders to land, and make an excursion to that part of the island round Point Rose, as there appeared from the ship to be a fine deep bay in that situation. The natives now began to bring us water pretty briskly, and some of their calabashes contained near ten gallons; for one of these we gave a tenpenny nail, which was much cheaper than we could possibly procure the water ourselves, allowing for the damage our boats would sustain, and the presents we should be obliged to make on shore to the chiefs.

      The weather being very fine, our ailing people were sent on shore under the care of my surgeon; and as the inhabitants had hitherto behaved in a quiet inoffensive manner, there was no great danger of their being molested.

      No chiefs of consequence paid us a visit as yet: the inferior chiefs indeed came on board without any scruple, and some of them slept with us every night. Amongst the rest I had a daily visit from an old priest, who always brought by way of present, a small pig, and a branch of the cocoa-nut tree. From him I learnt, that their present king's name was Taheeterre, and that he was also king of Morotoi and Mowee. The old man informed me, that his residence was in a bay round the West point, and importuned me very much to carry the ships there, as that place, he said, afforded plenty of fine hogs and vegetables. Indeed, I had some reason to think, that the inhabitants on that part of the island were more numerous than in King George's Bay, as I observed most of the double canoes came round the West point; but as the people now brought us plenty

of water, I determined to keep my present situation, it being in many respects a very eligible one; for we hitherto had been favoured with a most refreshing sea breeze, which blows over the low land at the head of the bay; and the bay all round has a very beautiful appearance, the low land and vallies being in a high state of cultivation, and crowded with plantations of taro, sweet potatoes, sugarcane, &c. interspersed with a great number of cocoa-nut trees, which renders the prospect truly delightful.

      In the afternoon the boats returned, and Mr. Hayward reported that he had landed in the West part of the bay, where he found a pond of standing water; but it was very inconveniently situated, and could not be got at without difficulty. He afterwards walked up to a rising ground, from which he could perceive the land round the West point of King George's Bay to fall in and form a fine deep bay running well to the Northward, and the Westmost land stretching out to the Southward: this however by no means induced me to change our situation.

      Towards evening the surgeon returned on board with the convalescents, and informed me, that the inhabitants had behaved in a very quiet inoffensive manner, though they were rather incommoded by the multitudes which curiosity brought about them.

      By this time all our water from the ground tier was got to hand, and the cables coiled down. The inhabitants now brought us water in such plenty, that by noon on the 4th all our empty casks were filled, having procured twenty-nine butts, eight hogsheads, and three brandy-pieces, which

contained 130 gallons each. As good water in any quantity may be procured at this island with the greatest facility for small nails and buttons, it undoubtedly must be the safest and most expeditious method any person can adopt who may chance to touch here, to barter for their water in the manner we did. Potatoes and taro are likewise met with here. in great plenty, but I never observed any bread-fruit, and scarcely any yams; so that there is reason to suppose they are not cultivated by the inhabitants of Woahoo.

      Having completed our water, and procured such refreshments as Woahoo afforded, I determined to proceed to Oneehow without loss of time, in order to get a supply of yams, which I knew that island produced in great plenty and perfection. Accordingly, at seven o'clock in the morning of the 5th, we weighed and stood to the Westward under an easy sail, with a moderate breeze at North East. As we approached Point Rose, a vast number of double canoes joined us, which came out of that bay to the Westward, seen by Mr. Hayward, and which obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Bay. An excellent bay it appears to be, stretching well both to the Northward and Southward. The Southern extreme forms itself into a flattish point, which I distinguished by the name of Point Banks, in honour of Sir Joseph Banks. Point Banks bears West by North from Point Rose, distant about twelve miles. From each of these points there runs a ridge of rocks for about three quarters of a mile; but they always. shew themselves by breakers, and coloured water.

      When We were a-breast of Point Rose, my old visiter the priest came on board in a large double canoe; bringing with him a very good feathered cap, as a present for me from Taheeterre; in return for which, I sent him two large towees and some other trifles of little value; I also gave the old priest a light-horseman's cap, and another to a young chief who had almost constantly been on board since my arrival at the island; being desirous to shew any future navigators who might happen to touch here, that this place had recently been visited by British ships. My guests were highly delighted with their presents, and after many professions of friendship, they took their leave and went on shore. At noon Point Dick, which is the South East point of Woahoo, bore East by North seven leagues, and Point Banks, the South West Point, North West half West, four leagues distant. After passing Point Banks, we hauled to the North West, and with a moderate Easterly breeze, stretched along the Western part of the island, accompanied by several canoes, who brought some flying fish to sell, the largest I ever saw; many of them measuring from ten to twelve inches in length, and thick in proportion. These fish are caught in nets, which the people here manage with great dexterity.

      The West side of Woahoo is very high and uneven, and near the shore there appear to be several small detached islands, within which there is a probability of meeting with good anchorage. From the North West, to the South West points, the land trends North West and South East, and likewise seems to promise well for anchoring ground; but the day being very hazy, we were prevented

      from examining it distinctly. Before I quit Woahoo let me observe, that I think it the finest island in the group, and most capable of being turned to advantage, were it settled by Europeans, than any of the rest; there being scarcely a spot which does not appear fertile. Here we found a great number of warriors and warlike instruments; many of the warriors were tattooed in a manner totally different from any I ever took notice of amongst the Sandwich Islands; their faces were tattooed so as to appear quite black, besides great part of the body being tattooed in a variety of forms.

      The greatest part of the daggers left by us at these islands during our last voyage, at present seem to centre here; for we scarcely ever saw a large canoe that the people in her had not one a-piece; and at Owhyhee I do not remember seeing more than two or three.

      As they are very dangerous and destructive weapons, I did not suffer any to be made in either ship, though strongly importuned to it by many of the natives: indeed I always thought it the last voyage a very imprudent action to furnish the Indians with weapons which, at one time or other, might be turned against ourselves; and my suspicions were but too well sounded; for with one of the daggers given by us to the natives of Owhyhee my much lamented commander captain Cook was killed; and but for them, that ornament to the British nation might have lived to have enjoyed the fruits of his labour in ease and affluence, after a series of years spent in the service of his country, and for the benefit of mankind in general: he, however, unfortunately set the example, by ordering

some daggers to be made after the model of the Indian Pahooas; and this practice was afterwards followed by every person who could raise iron enough to make one; so that during our stay at these islands, the armourer was employed to little other purpose than in working these destructive weapons; and so liberally were they disposed of, that the morning we were running into Karakakooa bay, after the Resolution had sprung her foremast, I saw Maiha Maiha get eight or nine daggers from captain Clarke, in exchange for a feathered cloak; though since our arrival at Woahoo, I have purchased some cloaks considerably better than that of captain Clarke's, for a small piece of iron worked into the form of a carpenter's plane-bit: these the Sandwich islanders make use of as adzes, and call them towees; and to them they answer every purpose wherever an edge-tool is required.

      Since the year 1778, at which time the Sandwich Islands were discovered, there appears to have been an almost total change in their government: from every thing I now have been able to learn, Taheeterre, the present king of Woahoo, is the only surviving monarch we left amongst the islands at that period; he then was king of Morotoi only; and Pereeoranne, who then governed Woahoo, was at war with him, and had sent a number of fighting canoes to attack his dominions. It seems that Pereeoranne's forces were worsted on this occasion; for presently afterwards, Taheeterre took possession of Woahoo; and, flushed with this success, he attacked and conquered the island of Mowee; which, as already has been observed, is now annexed to his dominions. Tereeoboo, who at that time was king of Owhy-

hee and Mowee, fell in battle whilst defending his dominions. I have no reason to doubt the truth of these relations; for Maiha Maiha, the present king of Owhyhee, at the time we last were there, was only an inferior chief, and is now, as I understand, in some measure subject to Taheeterre; besides which, the Woahoo chiefs having in their possession most of the daggers we left at Owhyhee, is a most convincing proof that they have been victorious; for I am very certain the natives at these islands will never part with their weapons but at the expence of their lives. From the best account our short stay would permit me to obtain, the principal of the Sandwich Isles were at this time governed by the following persons: Woahoo, Morotoi, and Mowee, were subject to Taheeterre; Maiha Maiha governed Owhyhee and Ranai; and a chief whose name I understand is Ta'aao, was king of Atooi and Oneehow.

      With a light breeze at North East we stretched to the North West during the afternoon, and were followed by canoes, bringing small hogs and vegetables, although our distance from the land was considerable.

      At eight o'clock in the morning of the 6th the North part of Woahoo bore East North East, nine leagues; and the South West part South East by East, ten leagues distant; the island of Atooi appeared in sight, bearing North West by West, distant twelve leagues. We now had light variable winds, with calms by turns; the weather very close and sultry. Our observation at noon gave 21° 36' North latitude: in this situation we found a pretty strong current setting West North West.

      At eight o'clock the extremes of Atooi bore from North West, to West half North, the nearest land about five leagues distant. The night was spent in standing off and on; as I wished to run well in with the South side of Atooi on the morrow, in order to give the natives an opportunity of bringing us vegetables; the stock we procured at Woahoo beginning to run short.

      At five o'clock in the morning of the 7th we bore away and made sail with a fine breeze from the Eastward, which brought us by eight o'clock within two leagues of the land.

      The land on the East and South East part of Atooi, rises gradually from the sea-side till it terminates in high land, which seems situated near the centre of the island; these hills are clothed to the summits with lofty trees, whose verdure has a beautiful appearance; the land next the shore affords a few bushes, but seems quite uncultivated, and destitute of inhabitants.

      On the Eastern shore there are a few small sandy bays, but they afford no shelter for ships to ride in; being quite exposed to Easterly winds, which blow directly on shore, and generally prevail here.

      After passing the South East point, we found the land cultivated in general, and houses were scattered here and there all along shore to the Westward: by noon we had several canoes about the ship, from whom we procured a few vegetables; but the surf ran so high on the beach,

that the natives could not bring off any considerable quantity.

      As I knew Atoui afforded plenty of fine hogs, and a variety of other refreshments, we stood on for Wymoa Bay, where captain Cook anchored the last voyage; as I was desirous of procuring some good hogs for salting, and also some to carry with me to sea. By three o'clock we were nearly a-breast of the bay, when the wind inclined to the Southward, and blew so fresh, that the anchoring-ground was very unsafe to ride in; being entirely exposed to Southerly winds, which send in a heavy cross-sea: I therefore did not think it prudent to trust the ships in such a situation; so wore, and stood for Oneehow, under all the sail we could carry. At four o'clock the extremes of Oneehow bore from North North West half West, to South West by West, about four leagues distant from the nearest land.

      The South point of this island forms a remarkable high bluff, rising on all sides to a considerable height, and breaking off abruptly. About five leagues to the Eastward, it has the appearance of a detached island, being joined to the main by a low flip of land, which is not seen more than three leagues distant. At seven o'clock the South point bore West by North about two miles, and the Easternmost part of the island, North North East, four leagues distant. Finding we had not sufficient daylight to bring us into the bay on the West side of Oneehow shortened sail, and hauled on a wind to the Southward; intending to spend the night in standing off and on. At eleven o'clock we wore, and made the signal to the Queen

Charlotte, but she not observing it, continued standing to the Southward; soon afterwards having nearly lost sight of each other, we wore, and stood after her. Having joined company, we again wore at one o'clock, and stood to the Northward. This mistake nearly occasioned us to miss Oneehow; for, by standing too long to the Southward, we got into a current which set us so strongly to the South West, that at daylight next morning, though the wind hung well to the Eastward, we could scarcly[sic] fetch a league to the Eastward of the West point.

      At six o'clock the South and East points of Oneehow in one, bore North East half North; our distance then from the nearest land was about two miles. I now perceived that we could weather well to the Eastward of the road; therefore stretched along shore, about the distance of one mile, and had regular soundings from twenty to sixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand. The wind still continuing well to the Eastward, I was tempted to run down and look into the West bay. At nine o'clock we hauled round the West point, and opened a bay, which I found to be a very good one; the soundings from fifteen to seventeen fathoms water, over a fine sandy bottom, and distant at least two miles from shore. After running a-breast the South West part of the bay, we anchored with the best bower in eighteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom, and moored with a kedge to the Westward in twenty-four fathoms water: the extremes of the bay bearing from North by South to South East; from which last point we were not more than half a mile distant. From the North point of the bay a ledge of rocks extend themselves in a direction nearly East and West, for more than half a mile; some

of which appear above water, and the extent of the rest may easily be known by the surf that continually breaks over them.

      About the middle of the bay is a fine sandy beach, within a quarter of a mile of which a ship may moor in seven and eight fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand; and boats may land with great ease and safety.

      No sooner were we moored, than several canoes visited us, bringing yams, sweet potatoes, and a few small pigs; for which we gave in exchange nails and beads. Amongst the people in these canoes were several whose faces I remembered to have seen when at this island before; particularly an old priest, in whose house a party of us took up our abode, when detained all night on shore by a heavy surf, and who treated us in a very friendly manner.

      Our principal business here was to procure a good stock of yams; and these I had the pleasure to see brought to us in tolerable plenty. I was also desirous to obtain a further supply of good hogs for salting; but this at present was very doubtful: for as yet we had seen very few, and the largest did not weigh more than twenty pounds. I expected to find no difficulty in getting water, at least sufficient for our daily use; as Mr. Bligh, who was master of the Resolution during our last voyage, and discovered the bay we now lay in, went on shore in order to examine this part of the island, and met with two wells of fresh water in the neighbourhood of our present situation.

      Early next morning we were surrounded by canoes, who brought a plentiful supply of yams, and some sugar-

cane. A chief, named Abbenooe, whom I knew when at this island before, also paid me a visit, and recognized his old acquaintance the moment he came on board. Having appointed six persons to trade with the natives for yams, and given orders to have them dried and stowed away, I went on shore in search of the wells mentioned by Mr. Bligh, accompanied by Abbenooe as a guide.

      When we landed, a number of the natives who were assembled on the beach retired to a considerable distance, and we walked to the wells without the least molestation. I found one of them brackish and stinking; the other afforded good water, but in no great quantity. The good water was situated about half a mile to the Eastward of the-beach, and the direct path to it was over a salt marsh: to avoid which a considerable circuit must be taken, which renders the situation very inconvenient. Indeed, a ship in distress for water might procure it here, though much time must be spent in doing it. I would recommend it to all ships watering amongst Indians, to have a sufficient number of casks hooped with wood instead of iron, for the purpose of filling on shore. These might afterwards be started into other casks in the boats. By this means much mischief might be avoided; for the Indians, having no temptation to steal them, probably would behave in a peaceable manner, and might safely be trusted to assist in rolling the casks.

      After examining these wells, I made an excursion into the country, accompanied by Abbenooe, and a few of the natives. The island appears well cultivated; its principal produce is yams. There are besides, sweet potatoes, sugarcane, and the sweet root which is called tee by the natives.

A few trees are scattered here and there, but in little order or variety. Some that grew near the well just mentioned were about fifteen feet high, and proportionably thick ; with spreading branches, and a smooth bark; the leaves were round, and they bore a kind of nut somewhat resembling our walnut. Another kind were nine feet high, and had blossoms of a beautiful pink colour. I also noticed another variety, with nuts growing on them like our horse chesnut. These nuts, I understand, the inhabitants use as a substitute for candles, and they give a most excellent light.

      Having viewed every thing remarkable on this side the island, I repaired on board, accompanied by my good friend Abbenooe, and found a brisk trade carrying on for vegetables. A few hogs had also been purchased, sufficient for daily consumption.

Continuation of Transactions at Oneehow,—Method of Salting Pork in tropical Climates,—Departure from Oneehow,—Method of brewing the sweet Root,—Arrive in sight of the Coast of America,—Stand on for Cook's River,—Meet with some Russian Settlers,—Arrival in Cook's River,—Visited by the Russian Chief,—Anchor in Coal Harbour,—Various Employments there.—Abundance of Salmon,—Visit the Russian Settlement.—Their Mode of Living described,—Proceed farther up the River.

      I have already observed, that Oneehow belonged to Ta'aao, king of Atoui. I now learnt that he was there at present, and that Abenooe governed Oneehow in his absence. I made the old man a present of some red baize, and two large towes, which he sent away immediately to Ta'aao at Atoui, and gave me to understand that I might expect plenty of hogs and vegetables from that place in consequence of this present. I placed no great reliance on this piece of information; but in the afternoon of the 10th I was agreeably surprised to see Abbenooe's messenger return, accompanied by several large double canoes, which brought a number of fine hogs to be disposed of, together with taro and sugar-cane.

      The messenger gave me to understand, that Ta'aao himself meant to have paid me a visit; but that he could not

leave Atoui under six or seven days, being detained there during that time, in order to perform some religious ceremonies for one of his wives, who was lately dead; and this intelligence was also confirmed by Abbenooe. However, I had no great reason to regret the absence of his Majesty, for Abbenooe kept the natives in very good order, encouraged them to bring us whatever the island afforded; and after the people from Atoui had disposed of their commodities, he sent them back for a fresh supply.

      Being desirous to make Ta'aao some further acknowledgment for his supplying us with the various refreshments Atoui afforded, though at such a considerable distance, I sent him as a present a light-horseman's cap; this however Abbenooe scarcely thought sufficient, and strongly importuned me to send along with it an armed chair, which I had in the cabin, as it would be, he said, peculiarly useful to one of the king's wives who had lately lain in. I willingly complied with my friend's request, and he dispatched the chair and cap to Atoui, under the care of special messengers. Our business now went regularly and briskly forward; the trading party were well employed in bartering for yams and other refreshments, and others were busied in killing and salting hogs for sea store. Observing the natives to break the yams in bringing them off, which prevents them from keeping for any length of time, I sent my second mate on shore on the 11th in the yaul to purchase some; by which means we procured a large quantity of very fine ones. Since our arrival here, such of the seamen whose recovery from sickness was scarcely confirmed were daily sent on shore, and found vast benefit from exercise and land air. Indeed, the inhabitants at

this island are not numerous, and they were kept in such excellent order by Abbenooe, that our people walked about wherever inclination led them, without the least molestation.

      Besides hogs and vegetables, we purchased some salt fish of various kinds, such as snappers, rock-cod, and bonetta, all well cured and very fine. The natives likewise brought us water in calabashes, sufficient for daily use, and to replace what had been expended since we left Woahoo. Curiosities too found their way to market, and I purchased two very curious fly slaps, the upper part composed of beautiful variegated feathers; the handles were human bone, inlaid with tortoise-shell in the neatest manner, which gave them the appearance of fineered work.

      By the 12th we had purchased near thirty hogs, weighing on an average sixty pounds each; the principal part of which were brought from Atoui: these were salted for sea store, as we daily, got a supply of a smaller sort for present consumption.

      The method of curing pork in tropical climates was first brought to perfection by captain Cook; yet his plan seems not to be generally known; on which account I shall here take notice of the mode I adopted, as I found it answer my most sanguine expectations.

      Three different parties were employed in this business; and the best times for killing we found to be about three o'clock in the afternoon, and again in the cool of the evening. An awning was fixed over those employed in killing

and salting, to prevent the sun from damaging the meat. After one party had cleaned the hogs well, they were handed to another set, who took the bones entirely out, cut away all the bruised parts and blood-vessels, and cut the meat into four or six pound pieces; at the same time making incisions in various parts of the skin, so as to admit the salt freely. These pieces were then given to the salters, who rubbed them thoroughly with good white salt, and afterwards stowed them on some hatches, that were fixed as a kind of temporary stage, about two feet from deck.

      A sufficient quantity of meat being placed on this stage, it was covered with canvass and boards, on which heavy weights were placed. In this state it remained till morning, by which time all the blood was pressed out, and the meat was hard and firm. Every piece was then carefully examined, and if any parts appeared the least tainted, they were cut away, and fresh salt rubbed on. The pork was then packed in casks filled up with strong pickle, and pressed with weights as before. After remaining in casks twenty-four hours, it was repacked, filled up with fresh pickle, and put away for future use. Some pork that we salted at Owhyhee was examined after it had been packed a week, and found perfectly sweet, and the finest I ever saw. The bones were broke, rubbed well with salt, and afterwards put into strong pickle; and the flesh being cut from the heads, it was dry-salted, and kept exceedingly well.

      I also salted several whole sides after the bones were taken out, without pickle, and they made very fine bacon.

      Since our arrival at the Sandwich Islands, we had salted on board the King George seven tierces and two hogsheads of pork, besides two tierces of bones, and had not twenty pounds of meat spoiled amongst the whole quantity. In addition to the above, I shall just observe, that after the hogs are killed, they cannot be too expeditiously cleaned and salted; for on that the safety of the meat principally depends, though I believe in most countries where much pork is cured, they usually leave it to cool before the salt is laid on. This method, however, is certainly a bad one; for I have known a house in Virginia, by following it, to lose near 600 hogs at one time; whereas, had they begun salting while the meat was warm, and the blood running, I have every reason to think that the greatest part, if not all of it, would have been preserved.

      By this time we had procured near ten tons of fine yams, and captain Dixon had got about eight tons on board the Queen Charlotte. The health of both ships crews was well re-established, and every necessary business being completed, no time was lost in getting the ships ready for sea, as the season for commencing our operations on the American coast was already begun.

      At five o'clock in the morning of the 13th we unmoored, and at eight o'clock we weighed and got under sail, standing out of the bay (which obtained the name of Yam Bay, from the great quantity of yams we procured in it), with a fresh breeze at North East.

      As our visit to the Sandwich Islands was a very transient one, I had little opportunity of obtaining any information respecting the manners and customs of the

natives; so that the reader may collect what little intelligence I can give him on that head from the foregoing detail of our transactions.

      Hogs, sweet potatoes, taro, sugar-cane, and yams, may, as has already been shewn, be procured in any quantity; and water is so easily obtained at Woahoo, that in little more than one day we got upwards of thirty tons on board. But amongst the refreshments these islands abound with, the sweet root, or tee, which we met with in great abundance at Woahoo, must by no means pass unnoticed, as it makes very good beer, which, after two or three trials, I brought to perfection. The great utility of this root was not known to us during the last voyage; so that the method I made use of in brewing it may not improperly be mentioned in this place.

      The root was peeled very clean, cut into small pieces, and put into a clean kettle, and six of the large roots were found a sufficient quantity for twelve gallons of water. This was put on the fire at three o'olock[sic] in the afternoon, and after boiling an hour and a half, was put away to cool. By the time the liquor was lukewarm, a gill of prepared yeast was added, and afterwards it was put into a cask. It generally begun to work about midnight, and by nine o'clock the next morning it was excellent drinking. I found it necessary to make use of yeast only once; the grounds fermented the liquor afterwards; and I am inclined to think, that when yeast cannot be procured, a little leaven would answer as a substitute.

      This beer was constantly drank by such of our sailors as were affected with the scurvy, and they found great benefit from it; so that in addition to its being very useful as common drink, I may safely call it a most excellent antiscorbutic. Having succeeded so well in brewing the sweet root, I tried sugar-cane by the same method, and made a good wholesome drink from it, though much inferior to the other.

      We stood to the North North West, along the West side of Oneehow, which forms several fine sandy bays, that seem to afford good shelter and anchorage. At ten o'clock my worthy old friend Abbenooe took his leave of me, and all the canoes left us; on which occasion we hoisted our colours, and fired ten guns, by way of taking leave of this little friendly island. At noon Yam Bay bore South East eight or ten miles, and the West point of Oneehow, South by East, six leagues distant.

      In the forenoon of the 15th we saw great numbers of the tropic and man-of-war birds, together with terns and boobies; so that I conjectured we then were sailing at no considerable distance from some uninhabited island. Our latitude at noon was 24° 14' North, and 160° 24' longitude.

      Nathaniel Portlock (c. 1748 – 12 September 1817) was a British ship's captain, maritime fur trader, and author.

      He entered the Royal Navy in 1772 as an able seaman, serving in HMS St Albans. In 1776 he joined HMS Discovery as master's mate and served on the third Pacific voyage of James Cook. During the expedition, in August 1779, he was transferred to HMS Resolution.

      He passed his lieutenant's examination on 7 September 1780, then served on HMS Firebrand in the Channel fleet.

      On Cook's third voyage, furs obtained in present-day British Columbia and Alaska sold for good prices when the expedition called at Macao.[3] In 1785 Richard Cadman Etches and partners, including Portlock and George Dixon formed a partnership, commonly called the King George's Sound Company, to develop the fur trade. Dixon had also served on Resolution in the Pacific Ocean under Cook. In September 1785 Portlock and Dixon sailed from England. Portlock was in command of the larger vessel, the 320-ton (bm) King George, with a crew of 59. Dixon's was in command of the 200-ton (bm) Queen Charlotte, with a crew of 33. Dixon and Portlock sailed together for most of their three-year voyage.[4] They crossed the Atlantic Ocean, reaching the Falkland Islands in January 1786, and transited Cape Horn to enter the Pacific Ocean. They reached the Hawaiian islands on 24 May and anchored in Kealakekua Bay (where Cook had been killed in 1779), but did not go ashore. They took on fresh food at other Hawaiian islands and proceeded on to what is now Alaska. After two years of plying the waters, Portlock and Dixon departed North America, reaching Macao in November 1788.

      On their return Portlock and Dixon published an account of the voyage, based in part on letters written by William Beresford, the trader on the expedition.

• The month and year from the source's margin notes have been added opposite the page number on each page.

• Other margin notes for chapter number, day of the week and date have been omitted.

Nathaniel Portlock.
      A Voyage Round the World, But More Particularly to the North West Coast of America, Performed in 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788, in the King George and Queen Charlotte, Captains Portlock and Dixon: Embellished with Twenty Copperplates, and Dedicated by Permission to His Majesty
John Stockdale, opposite Burlington-House, Piccadilly, 1789.
pp.58-92.

Sandwich Islands  Notes  Source  Whalesite