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Extract of Journal kept by Captain William Waldegrave
of HMS Seringapatam, March, 1830.

Source: Royal Geographical Society, U.K.

Pitcairn's Island, March, 1830.—We arrived here in the Seringapatam on Monday the l5th March 1830, about seven o'clock; soon after eight Edward Young, a native, came along side in a small canoe guided by one paddle; he wore a European waistcoat and trousers, and breakfasted with me, saying grace before and after. About nine several others came on board in a jolly boat; the senior native, Thursday October Fletcher Christian, was one. After breakfast many of them accompanied us to the shore; we landed about noon. At the top of the first level, seated in a grove of cocoa-nut trees, were assembled many of the wives and mothers. "I have brought you a clergyman."—" God bIess you, God bless you!" was the universal answer. "To stay with us?"—"No!" "You bad man, why not?"—"I cannot spare him, he is the clergyman of my ship. I have brought you clothes, which King George sends you." "We rather want food for our souls," &c. The welcome was most affecting; the wives met their husbands and greeted them with joy as if they had Iong been absent;—they received us most cordially, but more particularly the chaplain, Mr. Watson,—the men sprung up to the trees, throwing down cocoa-nuts, and tearing off the husks with their teeth. offered us the milk. When we had rested they took us to their cottages, where we dined and slept.

In the evening we walked to see Christian's and Adams's graves. They are at some distance from each other, the grave of the former near the spot where he fell, murdered, about one-third from the summit of the island; the latter is buried by the side of his Otaheitan wife, at the end of his cottage-garden. An hour after sunset we supped, and at nine o'clock retired to bed.

Pitcairn's island was surveyed by Captain Beechey, in 1826, therefore I shall only state what I saw. It is very high, with precipitous sides, and without anchorage; its basis is sandstone rock, mixed with particles of iron; occasionally there are volcanic rocks. The soil is clay, mixed with sand, very rich, and of great depth. There are three landing-places, two in smooth water; one of these is on the west, the other on the south-east side; near this last Mr. Sayer seems to think there is anchorage, half a mile from the shore. The ascent from the beach at these places is so steep that the natives object to land there. The third, and usual landing-place is directly under the village, on the north side of the island; the approach to it is very dangerous, and cannot be attempted in safety without the guidance of a native. There is no cove, a rock projects about seventy feet to the sea; beyond this, about thirty fathoms from the shore, a ridge of rocks runs parallel to the beach. There is but one opening, and that not fifteen feet wide: they watch the surf, and observing one unusually high, they row the boat on this, and guide it within a foot of the rock, then pull due east to avoid another; both cleared, the boat lands on a sandy beach, about ten feet wide. Outside of this rock the Bounty was anchored and burnt. There is a well, not of very good water; and here, also, begins the path leading to their village,—it is almost perpendicular, the thermometer at 90°. This continues two hundred feet, beyond which the path becomes more level, undulating with the land, passing through groves of cocoa-nut trees, yam, and potato grounds.

Their houses are of wood, some of two stories, which are called double cottages, thatched with palm leaves, rolled on sticks, leaving a projecting end of one or two feet. These sticks are placed horizontally on the rafters, beginning with the dropping eaves, and as they are ranged above each other, the loose end of the palm-leaf lies over them beneath, and forms a very thick thatch, lasting about seven years. They have no windows but shutters, all of wood, about a foot wide, so that seated, a free circulation of air passes over the head without being in a draught. If the cottage is double, the beds are placed upstairs, and the shutters are fitted the same as below;—their furniture, four postbeds with mattresses, sheets of the paper-mulberry cloth, large chests, benches, a table, knives and forks. They cook out of doors; to each house is attached a work-shop, where the cloth is made, a pig-sty, and we saw the beginning of a Bower-garden.

They appear to be careless about other fruits or vegetabIes than yams, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, plantains, and bananas. The yam grounds are cropped successively four or five times, then neglected, and other land cleared. Calavances, peas, Irish potatoes, tobacco, and wheat, have been brought, once raised, and neglected. The bread-fruit from neglect was becoming scarce. Gourds, water-melons, sugar-cane, pumpkins, and calabashes, were raised for use and barter; we saw one citron and one orange tree, both very young and not in bearing.

The best well of water is called Brown's well, two hundred yards above the village—soft water. Another just below the school-house, is used for culinary purposes, stock, and washing. Other wells have been sought by digging, without success.

The animals are goats, pigs, and fowls. We gave them three ewe-sheep, a duck, drake, goose, and gander. The trees are cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, banyan, and poplar-leaved hibiscus.

It was with very great gratification that we observed the Christian simplicity of the natives. They appeared to have no guile. Their cottages were open to all, and all were welcome to their food; the pig, the fow1 was killed and dressed instantly—the beds were ready, each was willing to show any and every part of the island; and to any question put by myself or Mr. Watson, as to the character or conduct of any individual, the answer was, "If it could do any good to answer you, I would, but as it cannot it is wrong to tell tales." They repeatedly informed me that there were eighty-one souls on the island; but after frequent counting, we only reckoned seventy-nine. One quietly gave the christian names of two others, but declined Saying who the parents were, as "It would be wrong to tell my neighbours' shame." Before they began a meal, all joined hands in the attitude of prayer, with eyes raised to Heaven, and one recited a simple grace, grateful for the present food, but beseeching spiritual nourishment. Each answered, Amen; and after a pause the breakfast or supper began—water or the milk of cocoa-nuts was the only beverage. At the conclusion, another grace was offered up. Should any one arrive during the repast, all ceased to eat—the new guest said grace, to which each repeated Amen, and then the meal continued.

The children were fond and obedient, the parents affectionate and kind towards their children—we did not hear a harsh word used by one towards another.

After the English were retired to rest, the natives assembled in a cottage, and the evening service was read by Mr. Watson. On the 16th, at night, all again assembled. The afternoon church service was performed, and a lecture given by Mr. Watson. They a11 made the responses with regularity, and it was a most striking scene. The place chosen was the bed-room of a double cottage—that is, one of two floors; the ascent was by a broad ladder from the lower room through a trap-door. The clergyman stood between two beds, and at his back the only lamp was placed. On his right in the bed, three infants were soundly sleeping; on his left three men sat at the foot of the bed—on each side and in front were kneeling the native men, some in the simple mara displaying their gigantic figures—others partly clothed in trousers and jacket, the neck and feet bare—behind were the women in their modest cloth dresses, entirely concealing the form, leaving the head and feet bare; the girls wore in addition a sheet knotted as a Roman senator's toga, thlown over the right shoulder, and under the left arm. When the general confession commenced, each knelt facing the clergyman with hands raised to the breast in the attitude of prayer, slowly and distinctly repeating the confession. Each was absorbed in the solemnity of the service. The text was most happily chosen:—"Fear not, little flock, for it is your Father's good pleasure to give you the kingdom." At the conclusion of the service, they requested permission to sing their parting hymn, when all the congregation, in good time sang "Depart in peace." Their voices were a11 tenors and of the same key.

The women are clothed in the paper mulberry white cloth, extending in folds from the shoulders to the feet, and so loose as entirely to conceal the figure. The mothers nursing carry their infants within their dress, with frequently an older child of a year old, seated across the hip, with its little hands clinging to the shoulder, the arm passed over its body keeping it in safety. The men and boys, except on Sundays, when they put on a European dress, wear nothing but the mara—a waist-cloth passing over the hips and through the legs. The climate is too hot for more clothing The men are from five feet eight inches to six feet high, of a dark copper complexion, great muscular strength, in good condition, and of excellent figures, we did not see one cripple or defective person, except one boy, whom, after much laughing, they in the most good-humoured way brought to me, saying, 'You ought to be brothers; you have each lost the right eye.' I acknowledged the connexion, and for the future he will be called Captain.

Unhappily the scene is not without alloy. Three Englishmen have arrived, and had wives given to them. Their names are George Hunn Nobbs, John Buffet, and John Evans. The first has married a daughter of Charles Christian, and calls himself pastor, registrar, and schoolmaster; he has sixteen scholars. Two of these titles, however, are claimed by John Buffet, hence a source of division; and since their arrival dissension, heretofiore an unknown evil, has appeared. Buffett, a native of Bristol, a ship-wright and joiner, a very useful mechanic, arrived first; he has eight scholars; and to him land has been allotted. Evans enjoys land through his wife, a daughter of John Adams, an heiress. The two last maintain themselves, but Nobbs claims exemption from labour as pastor; by law he is to be maintained by the community. His information is superior to the natives, therefore he wishes to become the chief,—in which he will be disappointed; they do not like a superior. As education increases, also, their minds will expand, when native talent will appear which will claim and obtain superiority. Had the family of Christian possessed but a moderate share of sense, one of its members vould have been chief by general consent; but Thursday and Charles Christian, the sons of the mutineer, are ignorant, uneducated persons, unable to maintain superiority. In time, Edward Quintal, the best understanding in the island, will be chief; he possesses no book but the bible, but such knowledge has he drawn from it that he argues from facts stated therein, and thence arrives at conclusions, which will in time place him much above his fellows. His wife, also, possesses a good understanding; and their eldest boy, William, has been so carefully educated, that there is no boy equal to him on the island. The descendants of Young are also promising persons, possessing good understandings.

One of the remarkable circumstances is the correctness of their language and pronunciation. The general language is English; their divine service, also, is in English; but they frequently converse in Otaheitan, the language of the mothers. Two of the women who left Otaheite in the Bounty are alive; both childless, but well taken care of by the others.

The whole island has been portioned amongst the original proprietors, therefore a foreigner cannot obtain land except by marriage or grant. Eleven-twelfths are uncultivated. Yet population increases so rapidly, that in another century the island will be fully peopled. I think one thousand souls would be its limit of inhabitants. The island at present is covered with trees, called the bush, yet only one good well has been discovered. Trees attract rain, and when these are removed the showers of rain will not be so frequent.

Since the death of John Adams, the patriarch, laws have been established against murder, theft, adultery, and removing a landmark. The penalty to the first is death; to the second, three-fold restitution; to the third, for the first offence, whipping to both parties, and marriage within three months,—for the second offence, if the parties refuse to marry, the penalties are forfeiture of lands and property, and banishment from the island. Offenders are to be tried before three elders, who pronounce sentence.

Marriage and baptism are celebrated according to the rites of the church of England. Confirmation and the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper are unknown to them.

They consider the King of England as their sovereign, and pray for him at divine service. I never was so forcibly impressed with the blessings of a liturgy as I was at Pitcairn's Island. Adams, the patriarch, could read, but until the latter days of his life he could not write; yet, after the slaughter of his shipmates and the Otaheitan men, he reared up all the children in the fear of God, through the instrumentality of the bible and prayer-book. He could not compose prayers, but he could read them to the little assembled flock; he read those beautiful prayers found in the prayer-book of the church of England; from it, also, he taught the catechism, the commandments, and all the Christian duties. So strongly attached are they to this service, that no dissenting minister could be admitted; they draw from it as the well-spring of life, and will not obtain water from another source.

They have only two meals,—breakfast, between ten and eleven o'clock in the forenoon, consisting of yams, potatoes, plantains,—supper, an hour after sunset, is the same; with three times a-week a pig, fowl, or fish, baked as at Otaheite.

John Adams died in March, 1829. During his life all obeyed him as a parent,—"Father" was his ony title. Shorthly before his death he called the heads of families together, and urged them to appoint a chief; but they looked up to him whilst living, and have appointed none since his death.

Ships may obtain fire-wood at Pitcairn's Island in abundance, with a certain quantity of yams, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, but not a large supply; poultry, pigs, they object to part with; it would be impossible to water a man-of-war, as the water is to be carried from Brown's well on the shoulders of the natives.

The following is a list of plants found at Pitcairn's Island in March, 1830, made by Mr. Andrew Matthews, late chief-clerk to the Horticultural Society, whom I engaged to go with me as botanist. The speciments of some of these may be seen at the British Museum, whither they were sent:—

Introduced.—Artocarpus incisa, Gossypium vitifolium, Poinciana pulcherrima, Gomphrena globosa, Capsicum frutescens, Nicotiana tabacum, Cucurbita citrullus, Cucurbita pepo, Citrus limonum, aurantium.

Indigenous—Musa paradisiaca, sapientum, Dioscorea sativa and aculeata, Convolvulus Batatas, Cocos nucifera, Ficus indica, Morus chinensis, Dracoena, Hibiscus tiliaceus, Pandanus fascicularis, Aru species, Cucurbita lagenaria, Piper species, Solanum nigrum, Nephrodium, Davilla, Polypodium aureum.

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