Revised Jun 4 2021
“H. M. S. Challenger May 30th, 1833.
“SIR,—After visiting several of the islands, I proceeded to Pitcairn's. The ship was immediately visited by most of the islanders, who came off in their canoes to invite the officers on shore. They were all well dressed, and in every respect had the appearance of Englishmen. I was sorry to find that they were not improved by their visit to Tahiti; but, on the contrary, I had reason to think they were much altered; and that on their return they had indulged in intemperance, by distilling a spirit from the ti-root, which grows in great quantities on the island
"I interrogated the most intelligent of the men respecting their return to the island, and they unanimously agreed that they had never been happy or contented since they quitted it; and that nothing would have induced them to do so, excepting the fear of displeasing the British Government, which they feared they might have done, had they not profitted by the means offered to remove themselves; but, that now being re-established there, they would ever remain. They had nothing to complain of respecting their treatment at Tahiti; but appeared to have disliked the characters of the people, and were alarmed at the sickness which prevailed among them, and which altogether has carried off seventeen, five having died since their return.
"I found on the island a Mr. Joshua Hill, a gentleman nearly seventy years of age, who appears to have come from England expressly to establish himself amongst these people as a kind of pastor or monitor. He had not been on the island more than two or three months, and was officiating as schoolmaster, and had quite succeeded in supplanting the Englishman who had acted previously in that situation. He informed me on his arrival, he had found the island in the greatest state of irregularity. He landed on a Sunday, when he found Nobbs, who acted as their pastor, intoxicated, and in such a state from the effects of drunkenness, as to be incapable of performing his duties; and he had taken them upon himself wishing to render as much service as possible to the islanders.
"It appeared to me so extraordinary a circumstance—a gentleman of Mr. Hill's age and apparent respectability, coming from England for the express purpose of residing upon Pitcairn Island—that I at first thought he must be some adventurer, more likely to do harm than good in the cause he had undertaken; but from the papers he showed me, he having been in communication with my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, the Colonial Office, Capt. Barclay, and many respectable gentlemen, offering his services, in the first instance, to remove the people from the island when it was first proposed, I was induced to think he must be interested about them; and as he had succeeded in restoring them to some kind of order, by putting a stop to the intemperance which existed, as he had broken up all their stills, and had formed them into a Temperance Society, I gave him all the assistance in my power to support him in his situation; the other Englishman having clearly proved by his conduct, that he was unfit for it.
"The number of people on the island at present is seventy-nine, and there appears to be abundance of vegetables of every description. They appeared to be under no alarm respecting a want of water, as they said, as their numbers increased, they must dig more reservoirs and wells. With respect to food, I am satisfied the island is capable of supporting 1000 persons. The soil is particularly good; and as most part of it is uncultivated, there is little fear of a scarcity. On their return from Tahiti, they found the island overrun with wild bogs, and their plantations destroyed, and they had only just succeeded in hunting them down; but even in their present state they were enabled to supply the Challenger with a large quantity of vegetables. Nothing could exceed the kindness of the people in offering everything they bad, which they thought would be acceptable.
"It is impossible for any person to visit this island without being pleased with a people generally so amiable, springing from so guilty a stock, and brought up in so extraordinary a manner; and, although I have no hesitation in saying that they have lost much of that simplicity of character which has been represented of them by former visitors, they are still a well-disposed, well-behaved, kind, hospitable people, and if well advised and instructed, could be led to anything. But, I fear, if much left to themselves, and visited by many ships, which now is not an uncommon occurrence, what simplicity they have left will soon vanish, and they will partake of the characters of their neighbours, the Tahitians.
"The present generation of children is the finest I ever saw, and out of the whole number, seventy-nine, there are fifty-three under twenty years of age; and they appear to have been well instructed, many of them capable of reading, and nearly on a par with children of the same age in England It certainly is desirable that they should have some better instruction. A clergyman would be most desirable and most acceptable to them, if any means could be adopted to appoint one.
"These people require many articles of clothing and household utensils, which the Government have sent them from time to time, and which they might be induced to repeat. Some articles they very much require. TheChallenger took for them from Sydney some few things, but so scanty an allowance, that but very little benefit could be felt from it.
"I remained off the island two days, the ship being under weigh, as their Lordships are aware there is no anchorage, and the landing is particularly hazardous; it being very rarely that a ship’s boat ought to land The natives are very clever with their canoes, and will land in almost any weather. Having given all the assistance and advice in my power on the island, and arranged their little disputes to the best of my abilities, I left this little colony, being much prepossessed in their favour by everything I had seen, sincerely trusting that they may continue to live in that state of innocence and contentment they did previous to their departure for Tahiti; which, it is to be hoped, they may, if they do not return to the use of that spirit they have so well learned the art of distilling, and which was brought about by the Englishmen, a specimen of which I obtained. It was not unlike whisky, and very good.
“I am, sir, your obedient servant, &c., &c., &c.
“(Signed) CHAS. H. FREEMANTLE,
“Captain.
“To Capt. the Hon. Geo. Elliott, Secretary,
“&c., &c., &c., Admiralty.”