Miscellany Home Tobin's Narrative Chapter 2
Revised Jun 9 2021
Appointed to the Providence – To convey the Bread fruit from Otahytey to the West Indies – Failure of the Bounty in 1787 – Captain Wm. Bligh and Lieut. Nathl. Portlock – Crews of Providence and Assistant, and kind of vessels – Messrs. Wiles and Smith Botanists – Sheerness, Lieut. Thos. Pearce and party of Marines – reach Spithead – Leave England – Three watches – Vessels separate in a fog, the only instance of their parting during the voyage – Speak a Whaler – Our Mess – promotion – Arrive at Teneriffe – Transactions there – Quit Teneriffe – Capt. Bligh sick – Mother Carys Chickens – Decks wetted – Pilot fish – Cape de Verde Islands – Log books – Arrive at St. Iago – Quit St. Iago – Speak a French brig – Porpoises – Men of War birds – Cross the Equinoctial Line – Lieut. Bond in charge of the Assistant – Shark and Dolphins caught – Advance southward – Albatrosses, Pintado birds – Porpoise struck – Luminous appearance of the sea – Blubbers – Whales seen – Bermuda – Gannets seen – Arrive at Table bay, Cape of Good Hope.
1791 April
Thetis off Bermuda Jany. 1797
My dear James,
It is more from a desire of employing some portion of time which begins to be wearisome, I take up my pen than in a belief that they hasty observations in the following sheets will add much to your amusements.
You cannot but remember the anxiety I ever expressed to embark on a voyage to the South Seas; nor was it long after receiving my Lieutenants Commission ere Lord Chatham who then presided at the Admiralty, was considerate enough, at the solicitation of my friends, to give me the appointment of third Lieutenant of the Providence, destined to transport the Bread Fruit and other plants from Otahytey to our West India Colonies.
At Times, when indolence did not lay its heavy hands on me; it was my custom to commit my ideas to paper, on the various circumstances that occurred as we voyaged along; I am now about to put such fragments, in some sort of connexion, and as they are not meant for the "publick eye," I will not dread the critique of a friend who is aware that the person addressing him, from between eleven and twelve years of age, has
2 April 1791 Deptford
nearly the whole time been tossing on an element; giving him claim to indulgence and pardon for those errors with which a nautical education is sufficiently freighted.
The first expedition towards the close of the year 1787, for conveying the Bread fruit and other useful plants to the West Indies having failed, by the unfortunate mutiny on board the Bounty in April 1789, it was determined by Government to make a second attempt in so humane and laudable an undertaking. The success of this Voyage has fully answered the most sanguine expectations of every one concerned in it.
Captain William Bligh was again chosen to command the Expedition, and, as the Navigation in many parts, particularly the straits formed by New Holland and New Guinea; was known to be intricate and full of danger, a small brig under the command of Lieutenant Nathaniel Portlock, an experienced Officer and scientific seaman who had been familiar to voyages of circumnavigation, was appointed to assist him.
The Ship selected by Captain Bligh, under the authority of the Admiralty, was a new West Indiaman, built at Wm. Perrys Yard Blackwall. She was flush decked; about four hundred tons burthen;
3 April 1791 Deptford
of good capacity, and in every respect adapted to the Voyage. Our Consort was a Brig of rather more than an hundred tons burthen. They were both coppered and named; the former the Providence, her tender the Assistant.
[Here there is an inline note:] Page 1. Book of Drawings.
[Those drawings are not included here, nor are other such inline notes. Many of Mr. Tobin's drawings
are held by the State Library of New South Wales, and may be viewed
here.
There is also a marginal note:]
We had a rendezvous open for Volunteers at the sign of the Round About in that refined part of Wapping, New Gravel Lane, but in a month entered only five men notwithstanding our Bills were well passed; in praise of Otaheite and its Inhabitants. The vessels were not detained a moment for want of crews.
In April 1791 the two vessels were commissioned; the Providence to be navigated by an hundred men, including Officers and Marines, the Assistant, if I remember right, by five and twenty. While at Deptford every attention was paid by the officers of the Dock Yard to make the ship as commodious as possible. Frames and other conveniences were fitted for carrying the plants after embarking them from Otahytey. As the whole of the After Cabin was allotted to them, it encroached in a great measure on our accommodations.
At this place Messrs. Wiles and Smith joined the ship for the purpose of collecting and superintending the care of the plants during the voyage. Every article that had hitherto been found an antiscorbutic; or any way conducive to health in distant voyages, such as Sour Krout, Sweetwort, Essence of malt, Spruce, portable soup, Hops, &c &c was bountifully supplied us. Two Brodie stoves with funnels to communicate through the Cable Tiers and more confined parts of the ship were also received on board, as well as a kind of
4 1791 June, July – Deptford, Sheerness, Portsmouth
portable Oven to rebake the bread should it be found necessary.
June 22d. We this day left Deptford, anchoring in the evening at Galleons Reach to take on board the ordnance and ammunition; the former being sixteen four pounders and several swivels. The Assistant had six four pounders besides swivels.
In our way towards the Nore, the ship was found to be so crank that, stopping at Sheerness, twenty Tons of Iron Ballast, besides some shingle were taken on board. At this place Lieutenant Thomas Pearce, a Sergeant, two Corporals, a Drummer, and fifteen private marines, joined from Chatham barracks.
July 16th The vessels did not reach Spithead until this day. Here the crew was completed, and in addition to many wholesome articles received at Deptford, several Cases of Borecole, or dried Cabbage were sent on board from Haslar Hospital. This was found to be palatable when cooked in various ways.
The day approached fast for our departure from the British Shore and civilized society, to mingle with the uncultivated children of nature – in more distant countries. He must indeed be destitute of reflection and sensibility who has not some connexions or attachments to bind him to his native Isle; particularly happy in my relatives and friends
5 1791 August Portsmouth
I sorely felt the seperation, nor did I look to this voyage of anxious uncertainty, without some unpleasant thoughts; but they were soon dissipated; it was a Voyage I had eagerly courted and volunteered, and my profession taught one that repining was wrong, and would avail naught.
August 2d. Every thing being ready for Sea, a little after noon the anchors were weighed and we sailed through the fleet at Spithead with a fine breeze. The wind was variable in the Channel until the 7th, when a departure was taken from the British Coast, nor without our anxiously casting the "last look" on the hills of our native isle as it receded from the view, until the wat'ry "horizon bid the prospect die".
On the 17th we were advanced Southward as far as 42°..09′ Nth Latitude; the Longitude by account being 12°..24′ West. The Thermometer 67½°. The Crew were now put at Three watches, a measure, the beneficial effects of which, was sensibly felt throughout the voyage; and it gives one a real satisfaction to observe that, it is becoming very much the custom, even in our ships employed on active service in war.
There was rain on the following night during the whole of which a good fire with a centinel to prevent accidents, was kept in the Galley most of the watch taking the benefit of it, a sufficient number being left on deck to attend the haulyards and look out. This
6 1791 August – Teneriffe
Custom was observed throughout the voyage; as well as enforcing the people to dry their wet clothes, which at length became habitual to them. Too much attention cannot be paid to it, as nothing generates sickness so much on board ship, as wet or damp clothes.
On the 21st in a thick fog the two vessels were unavoidably not in sight of each other for about two hours, and it was the only instance during the voyage of their having at all separated, notwithstanding the great variety of weather they experienced.
22d. An English ship was spoken with this day from Southampton bound round Cape Horn on the Southern whale fishery. Mr. Harwood the Surgeon visited her Commander who was unwell.
27th The atmosphere was hazy. In the morning the Peak of Teneriffe appeared in sight, and on the following day with the assistance of our boats, anchored in the Road of Santa Cruz in thirty four fathoms water, mooring with the Best Bower in forty seven fathom NbE and SbW, a cable each way. When moored, the East point of the road bore EbN four leagues, the West point, SW½W six leagues, the high Church of St. Francis West, one mile, and the Peak, just discernible above the mountains, WbN. You must not let these nautical terms annoy you, for although of no importance to you, whether the
7 1791 August Teneriffe
Church bore East or West, at some future period it may (as a direction) to me, therefore, whenever you meet with Latitude, Longitude, Bearings and distance, or any such phrases, you have only to pass them by unheeded.
In noticing the Southern Whaler on the 22d, it escaped me to observe that, in the subsequent part of the voyage we had communication with several of these ships. In the Greenland and Davis straits fishery, the blubber from the whale is packed up in Casks and brought to Great Britain, but in the Southern fishery, the oil is extracted from it at Sea; the ships being provided with boilers for the purpose.
In the course of the passage to Teneriffe nothing particular occurred worthy of remark. Harmony prevailed among us, the people were in high health and spirits, and from the persevering attention of their Commander little contrary was to be apprehended. You will perhaps, fine me tedious, but in what I am about, I wish not to pass over any thing that may serve to assist me at any future period should I ever be employed on a similar Expedition; and should peace take place, it would meet my choice in preference to the tameness of either the home Station, or any of the regular ones abroad. Somewhere I must serve; nor will I rest, however remote the period may be; until I reach the
8 1791 August Teneriffe
permanent post of a profession in which I delight, and which I was sanguine enough, when embarked on the voyage which now employes my pen, to calculate I should have arrived at either.
You were in America or the West Indies when we returned; which prevented me making you personally acquainted with my associates "in travel," but as I shall have occasion to mention some of them, it will not be amiss to tell you, who were the residents of a square, six feet by eight, where cheerfulness was wont to reign. We are now scattered far about. One indeed, my ever valued and lamented friend poor Guthrie, has left us about two years—for, I trust, a better world. Severe illness obliged him to withdraw his services from the Mediterranean fleet, and on the way to breathe his last among his endearing friends at home. Death stopped him short at Insbruck in Germany, that they might not be witness to the melancholy event.
Our Mess was composed of six. We met all strangers to each other. It does not too often happen that, in the confined space of a ship, harmony, or even good breeding is found to exist; nor is it surprising when we reflect on the many abrupt and uncultivated Characters among us; but it was my good fortune—and in such a voyage—what a consummation attained, to meet with men, who from having mixed
9 1791 August Teneriffe
in the world, joined to the advantage of some early liberal education, a considerable portion of that general information so absolutely necessary to create sensations diffirent from those produced by the "torpid narrative of the mere sailor." Conscious that comfort depended on ourselves, if our tempers were not all cast exactly in the same mould, without much exerting or self denial they were so disciplined, that we conciliated towards each other in a manner rendering discontent rarely known. The infirmity of the moment was soon banished, and only served, when it did happen, which was seldom, to convince us that good humour and unanimity were guests absolutely necessary to smooth the passage.
| We were | Frans. Godolphin Bond | 1s. Lieut. |
| James Guthrie | 2d | |
| George Tobin | 3d | |
| Wm. Nicholls | Master | |
| Edward Harwood | Surgeon | |
| Thos. Pearce | Lieut. of Marines |
Save the regret occasioned by quitting our friends and country, we were full of hope and spirits. Our calculations on the Admiralty, in the event of accomplishing the expedition, were rather sanguine. We calculated erroneously—For you friend, neither his age or services, gave him room to murmur; but surely his messmate Bond, from the situation he held, his length of Service, and former sufferings, might have had more consideration
10 1791 September
bestowed on him, than in the appointment of First Lieutenant of a purchased four and twenty gun ship. But I fear that the popularity which attended the equipment of the expedition, was considerably diminished towards its completion. You are perhaps unacquainted that, about a short twelve month previously to our return, a Court Martial had been held on the mutineers of the Bounty. It does not belong to me to judge of the necessity of such a measure while Captain Bligh was absent. It was thought proper—and it was not difficult to discover on our arrival that impressions had been received by many in the service, by no means favourable to him. It is hard of belief that this could have extended to the officers of the succeeding Voyage. Yet we certainly thought ourselves rather in the "back ground" but enough, at present, of this truly melancholy subject.
[Marginal note:]
This most excellent officer and well-informed man, suffered great injury in his person by an explosion
of Gun-powder on board a Prize, where he was in the American war.
11 1791 September
Before the vessels were anchored in the Road of Santa Cruz, we were visited by the Master of the Port, enquiring after names and destination. Guthrie was soon after sent on shore to learn if the Governor would return our salute, as well as to obtain permission for the ships to be supplied with water and refreshments. The Governor was at the Grand Canary, but my messmate was politely received by the Commandant, who declined a salute; using as a reason; the very great expence it would be to the Spanish Government did such a custom prevail. The request to procure water and refreshments was most readily granted.
At this Island we remained until the 2d when the water being completed and a supply of wine taken on board we continued our Course to the Southward.
The Town and Road of Santa Cruz have been so often fully described by various Voyagers, that I shall not attempt giving you any more than a cursory statement of what I immediately saw or learnt during our short stay. The little time I was on shore was chiefly devoted to the necessary duty of the ship.
On passing the North East part of the Island until you approach the Town of Santa Cruz, the country bears a most dreary and
12 1791 September Teneriffe
unprofitable aspect; not a vestige of vegetation is to be seen, but on the very summit of the mountains, and on a few spots in the valleys. Above the Town it becomes more level, and some patches of cultivation are discernible. The North West part of the Island (I was informed) boasts a more fertile soil, and from the great quantity of fruit and vegetables brought from the neighbourhood of Porto Orotava there is little doubt of its being the case. About six miles on the road to this Place is the City of Laguna.
The Town of Santa Cruz is by no means irregular, and has a light airy appearance from the shipping. The Houses of the better sort of people are spacious, but not at all adapted to the warmth of the climate. In common with all the Spanish and Portugueze settlements, the poorer class of people are numerous, and the most wretched of human beings never failing to solicit the charity of the Stranger as he passes them. On the whole Island it is computed that there are about sixty eight thousand inhabitants. A Militia is kept up, who every Sunday are mustered and go through their exercise. The Garrison of Santa Cruz, the only one on the Island, does not amount to three hundred regulars, including officers, who bear a very great proportion to the men. Those did not appear in any way
13 1791 September Teneriffe
tolerably appointed. The Churches and religious Sanctuaries are not very numerous, those I visited, boasted the most gaudy ornaments. The Chapel to a Convent of Dominican Fryers is remarkable for its cleanliness and neatness. No molestation whatever was given in our visits to any of them and in passing the diffirent cells, our bows were returned with much politeness and cordiality by their Tenants, some of whom appeared of a very advanced age. The Church of St. Francis is conspicuous by its high tower, and is a good anchoring mark for ship coming into the road.
There is a Pier for the convenience of landing Goods, to which very fine water for the shipping is conveyed by pipes. On this pier are several pieces of large brass ordnance. This seems to be the resort of the inhabitants of an evening, and notwithstanding there is a cool shaded walk contiguous to it, (like your fine Exchange at Bristol) it is seldom visited.
Fruit is remarkably reasonable in its price, but of an inferior Quality. Grapes brought on board, were sold at about a half penny the pound, and peaches nearly as moderate. There are besides, Pears, Apples, Figs, bannanas, and a few nectarines, and from
14 1791 September Teneriffe
and from good authority I learnt that most of the tropical as well as European fruits are procurable according to the diffirent seasons. The common as well as the sweet potatos are in abundance. The Beef we thought of an inferior quality, and poultry, which is chiefly brought from the Grand Canary, could scarcely be procured. The supply of fish was hardly to be noticed, but at certain seasons many vessels are sent to the African coast on a fishery established there by the Spaniards, returning with them cured, to the Canaries.
The weather during our stay was uncommonly sultry and oppressive; nor did the night air at all make amends for our sufferings in the day. The Land breeze which in most warm Latitudes is eagerly courted, is here as much to be dreaded, the rocks acquiring such a degree of heat from the days sun as to render the air passing over them almost insupportable. The Thermometer in the shade was at 89° which was higher than it ever rose in the subsequent part of the voyage.
Having heard that about the sides, and near the summit of the peak, men were living in a state of religious retirement, I made enquiry respecting it, but was assured that it was not the case, as Travellers from curiosity and peasants who gain a livelihood by bringing
15 1791 September Teneriffe
down ice, are the only visitors. I was much disappointed with respect to the appearance of this celebrated mountain; the surrounding ones no doubt take considerably from its grandeur. It was clothed in snow during the visit of the Providence, and when the sun shone on it, had a beautiful effect. Our short stay at Teneriffe, to my unfeigned mortification, prevented me attempting a journey to the peak, or indeed any excursion beyond the environs of Santa Cruz.
✱ On the Peterel, or Mother Carys Chicken. "When the bold Peterel wings his flight, "Oe'r Ocean's wide and "trackless deep;" "How does he rest his foot at night? "Where does the little wanderer sleep. "I cannot tell if the wanderer sleeps, "Or how he may rest his foot at night; "Perhaps he a constant vigil keeps, "But I've always rued his boding sight. "For I ne'er saw his active flitting form, "Sweeping with dusky wing the wave, "But I've asked the tempests rising storm, "And thought of the seaman's wat'ry grave. "Off the blue sea rises proud and high, "And the st'ring clouds precede the gale; "Then you may note the dark Peterel fly, "Stemming the breeze with his pinion sail.
Naval Chronicle Vol 37
16 1791 September
✱ Sonnet To the Peterel, or Mother Carys Chicken "Bird of the Storm—for ever hovering nigh! "But most when tempests shake the watery plain, "Child of each clime-in Neptune's boundless reign, "The burning tropic, and the polar sky— "Following thy mazes oft through liquid space, "Wondering I ask, 'what power upholds thy flight,' "What—through the untracked ether, guides they sight? "And where when wearied is thy resting place? "As though (vain thought) that He who made me man "And in my ample bosom pour'd a soul; "Had not perfected his creative plan, "And breath'd his spirit through the mighty whole; "And to thee, wanderer oe'r the troubled tide, "Powers suited to thy state, with bounteous hand supplied.
Naval Chronicle Vol 32
Vide also the preceding page.
17 1791 September
Quitting Teneriffe, a course was shaped for the Cape de Verde Islands—previous to leaving Santa Cruz Captain Bligh was attacked with an alarming fever, nor was his health perfectly established until within a short period of our reaching the Cape of Good Hope.
6th. Besides other aquatic birds, those by seamen called Mother Carys Chickens were about us in numbers. From what circumstance they acquired this name I could never learn. Seamen, who are in general superstitious, on the appearance of these little birds calculate on strong weather being near. That a continual intercourse with the sea enables them in some degree to foretell approaching storms cannot be denied; but in the present instance I feel no hesitation in pronouncing that, their prophetic knowledge is entirely groundless. I have seen these birds in all countries, climates, and weather, without ever finding the elements in any was disturbed by their appearance. It is of the peterel tribe, web footed; with very long delicately formed legs. In colour, except in the breast being black, it a good deal resembles the common Land Martin. They seldom settle on the water, but collect in numbers about the wake of a ship, hovering near the surface in search of food. I recollect many years ago, meeting on the Coast
18 1791 September
of Nova Scotia with a dead whale, about which were some thousands of these little birds, many of them settled on the decks of the ship, apparently worn our by hunger.
The weather now became considerably warmer. Wind sails to convey air below, were fitted to the diffirent hatchways, and in the evenings the upper deck was always wetted; a custom never neglected by us in very warm Latitudes. This not only communicates a coolness below, but is a great preservative for the planks against the acquired heat of the days sun. A Pilot fish was taken. In shape it is not very unlike a Mackarel, yet not so sharp at the head or near the tail. The colour purple and grey, in broad vertical stripes. This fish is seldom seen but when accompanying the Shark, from which circumstance it has, by seamen, acquired the name. The Shark is generally attended by one, or more, of these fish, who are busily employed in examining the diffirent food passing near. When many baited hooks have been towing over board, I have seen the pilot fish going and returning without the shark paying any attention, but on meat being thrown into the sea without a hook, the inspection of the pilot fish never failed bringing the shark to his prey. The
19 1791 September Cape de Verd Islands
Shark is also frequently attended by Sucking Fish. These fish adhere so fast to its skin that I have known them taken together.
9th. Early in the morning the Island Sal was seen on the Western side of which, the ships passed. The Latitude observed at Noon was 16..50 North, the center mountain bearing S74 East about [blank] Leagues. The Thermometer 81½°. In the evening, while the West end of Bonavista bore South and St. Nicholas WNW, the South East end of Sal was NEbE. Sal appeared barren and destitute of verdure, the Land hilly and unequal.
A very careful look out was kept in the night for the Seton Rocks, and before the dawn opened the vessels were brought to.
10th. The Seton Rocks were seen soon after day light. At Noon the Latitude was observed in 15°..41′N when they bore N42°E about 3 leagues distant. These rocks cannot be too carefully avoided; they form but a small spot, yet a heavy sea breaks on them. Out meridian observation correctly fixed their Latitude.
Bona vista appeared hilly, and as barren as Sal.
11th. In the morning the Island of St. Iago was seen, and before noon the vessels were anchored in Port-praya road, having thirteen fathom and a sandy bottom with stones. The ship was steadied with the Kedge Anchor, when the Fort bore NNW¼W two miles, the East point EbN½N, and the South West
20 1791 September Port Praya
point WbN, one mile distant.
I should have informed you that, towards the conclusion of the voyage; our Log Books and Journals, at the desire of Captain Bligh, were given up. These, on the ships arrival in England, were deposited in the Admiralty office, nor do I know whether they will ever again reach their proper owners. Hitherto all the efforts I have made to recover them have proved fruitless. In particular Voyages of discovery, this precaution, however harsh, might for a time be proper to prevent misrepresentation, but in the present case mystery seems so truly unnecessary that I cannot but confess my feelings to be rather sore at the deprivation of them—but 'tis part of our creed to suppose that our rulers are right. We enlist under this impression. The above circumstance may make me frequently incorrect as to dates, particularly subsequently to our departure from Otahytey.
Soon after anchoring at Port Praya, I was sent to wait on the Governor. It has already been observed that Captain Bligh was in an ill state of health, and part of my mission was to enquire whether his taking up his residence on shore would be likely to benefit him. A genteel young Portuguese with much politeness offered the use of his house, but at the same time urgently recommended
21 1791 September Port Praya
our proceeding to Sea; giving a most unfavorable account of the place at that season. A fever, he said, was carrying off five or six daily. The Governor, who I found in a very sorry mansion indeed, received me with civility, yet gave me to understand that until the ships had been formally reported, no traffic of any kind could be allowed; but on my representing the very ill state of our Commanders health, after some persuasion, allowed a few oranges to be taken on board. In the evening I again paid my respects at Government House, not a little surprised to find that its Tenant had forgotten an appointment he had made to meet me by taking a ride up the country. The Commandant however allowed us to return on board with a few more oranges, which, with some decayed Cocoa Nuts, was all the fruit to be procured. In this second visit the ragged sergeant of a ragged guard, attached himself to our party, full of the most flattering assurances that abundance of every kind of stock and fruit would be brought early on the morrow from the more productive parts of the Island.
The very sickly state of Port Praya hurried us to Sea that night, without waiting the Sergeants abundant supply. In attempt
22 1791 September Port Praya
to weigh the Anchor it was found to be so fastened to some thing at the bottom as to render all our efforts fruitless. It is more than probable it got hooked to one of the anchors left by Commodore Johnstone, or M. de Suffrein [Suffren], in April 1781.
So short was our visit to Port Praya, my observations respecting it must be very confined. The anchorage seems to be sheltered from every wind but a southern one. No wharf or regular landing place appeared, but the surf did not beat high on the beach. I did not observe a single boat of any kind, which is the more remarkable as great abundance of fish are to be easily caught along the shores; but the inhabitants deny themselves this indulgence from an apprehension that if boats were in common use their slaves would avail themselves of it by deserting to the African shore.
Fish were so very plenty that our people caught more than enough for their expenditure, with hook and line. The beach seemed to be particularly favorable for hauling the seine. One fish was remarkable for the brilliancy of its colours being of a bright vermilion, mottled with lively purple spots. Flying fish were numerous and very large; on returning to the ship in the evening one flew into the boat of the following dimensions.
23 1791 September Port Praya
| Length | 14½ |
| Length of the upper wings | 8 |
| Length of the under wings | 3¾ |
| Circumference at the thickest part of the body | 5¾ |
It was the largest flying fish ever met with in any part of the world. The shape very much resembled the mullets. I have no doubt but excellent sport might be had, by shooting them in the air.
I do not know whether it has been noticed, but the Flying fish has the peculiarity of the lower part of the Tail being full twice the length of the upper. The use of it has been evident to me frequently. I have by the hour, watched Dolphin and Bonettas in pursuit of them, when, without wholly immersing themselves, which would have proved fatal, they have dipped, in their progressive motion, the lower part of the tail on the surface of the water, so as to supply their wings with moisture to support them from falling. I rather think that I never saw a flying fish exceed the distance of an hundred yards without seeking this relief. The Flying fish has a remarkably large eye.
The Town is situated on a cliff not far from the beach, bearing a most wretched appearance. More than three parts of the inhabitants appeared to be Africans or the produce of African
24 1791 September Port Praya, St. Iago
parents. The houses teemed with misery and sickness, and even the Governors, was not equal to an English cottage.
St. Iago is the chief town on the Island, being about ten miles from Port Praya. The cliff on which the latter is built, divides two vallies that lead towards the mountains, the one to the left was by no means unpleasant or destitute of cultivation. I observed the Cocoa Nut, the plantain, the sugar cane, and palm, in tolerable luxuriance. The mountains rising from the interior are particularly grand and picturesque. Not far from the beach is a Well of tolerable water, but the casks must be floated off to the boat.
It would be unjust to doubt the report of the sergeant respecting the abundance of stock in the country, but Port Praya was almost destitute of the common necessaries of life. Scarcely any poultry was seen, and but a few hogs and goats.
In the road we left a Southern whaler from Nova Scotia, and a schooner from the American States. The master of the latter informed me, it was his seventh voyage to the Cape de Verde Islands, and that in return for dry goods and provisions, he took a cargo, chiefly of hides. By the schooner, Captain Bligh sent despatches (by the way of America) of our having reached thus far in safety.
25 1791 September
12th. Leaving the Island in the night with a fine breeze at North East, a course was shaped to the southward.
15th. At Noon the Latitude was observed in 10°..10′N Longitude by D.R. 22°..50′W Ther° 83°. Variation of the compass in the morning 11°..11′ Westerly. The ship sailed through a quantity of what the seamen called fishes spawn. It extended in a line, a few yards broad, as far as the eye could discern East and West having much the resemblance of saw dust on the surface of the water. I have at various times seen this scum, which on being taken on board had the appearance of the small granules forming the spawn of shrimps. Were I to attempt a more particular description, doubtless it would not be of a kind whence any certain conclusion might be drawn as to what it really is. Perhaps the seamen are not wrong in considering it to be fishes spawn.
The air now became close and sultry, accompanied with much rain. Brodie stoves were fitted, one in each Cocpit, and fires kept in them throughout the day, besides every other precaution being taken to keep the ship dry in her more confined parts. Hoses were fixed to the awnings, by which means a considerable quantity of water was collected, but perhaps it is impossible on board
26 1791 September From St. Iago towards Cape of Good Hope
ship, to prevent such water being impregnated with the taste of Tar.
22d. In the morning a brig under the National Colours of France was spoken with. She was from Havre bound to the African coast. I had never before seen the National Flag. On this subject I shall have occasion to speak as I go along, but I cannot help remarking that we had been Officially instructed to consider it as the Flag of France. The Commander of the brig promised to report us to the English Admiralty on his return to Europe.
In the afternoon numbers of porpoises were playing around the ship. The activity and exertion of this fish is astonishing. It is common to see them leap full six feet above the surface and more than double the distance. On a particular examination of them, it would seem that their horizontal tails considerably aid towards this effect. Many fish leap a great height from the surface, but there is a mode of travelling peculiar to the porpoise. When sailing at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour, it is common to see them in vast numbers taking the same direction, but at more than twice this rate; as if they had some object in view, bounding ten or twelve feet at a time. When rising from the water, the acquire strength and progressive motion from a pressure with their tails on the surface which is repeated at every leap. To a person not
27 1791 September From St. Iago towards Cape of Good Hope
familiar with the sea, I know of scarcely any thing more curious than a school of porpoises moving in the manner I have endeavoured to describe. When these fish are seen in a calm, seamen even calculate on the wind coming from the quarter of the compass towards which they are making their progress, an observation which seems idle enough.
Several Men of War birds were about the ship. I was never able to get a close inspection of this bird. It is about the size of a large Kite, its wings much out of proportion to the body, being very long, as is the tail, which is forked like the Swallow's. The colour, except the head, breast and bill, which are white, is dark brown. When in pursuit of prey its sight is astonishing. At more than twice the height of a ships mast head, it is common to see them dart perpendicularly and seldom fail catching a fish. An instance this day offered; where, one having taken a flying fish to a considerable height, it disengaged itself, but by the celerity of the bird was again caught before it reached the surface of the water.
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29 1791 October
2d. It was with great satisfaction we saw our Commander so much recovered; as to be able to read the morning service.
3d. With a fine breeze at South East we this day crossed the Equinoctial Line – in Longitude by D. R. 22°..08′ West, by the Time Keepers 19°..58′W. The Thermometer 77°. In the afternoon such as had voyaged only in the northern hemisphere, were seperately called upon to pay a fine according to their rank, or under the ceremony of ablution in a large tub prepared for the occasion; and this I assure you is highly necessary after the one which previously takes place, as a notched iron hoop for a razor, does not effectually remove from the pores of the skin, the compound lather with which it has been annointed. The cruel one of ducking overboard was (privately) prohibited; notwithstanding the day had opened with a most alarming machine suspended through a block at the Fore yard arm for this purpose. It was formed of an Iron Crow, with a collar for the neck of the same metal and a handspike lashed across for the hitherto uninitiated suffers to sit on while firmly grasping the crow, they are ducked (as the seamen term it—by the run) in the briny element some fathoms deep, whence they rise free of the Equinoctial Line. Such was the
30 1791 October Equinoctial Line
custom among seamen "in days of yore," but the plunge from the yard arm has (I believe) been discontinued many years; a less dangerous, though sufficiently filthy ordeal, now serving the purpose of baptism.
The business to your friend was nothing new, he had before entered the Southern track of the world, when indeed, more humour and whimsical fancy was displayed than on the present occasion. Our Neptune and his spouse were dull; even the latter was neither communicative or curious as we in general find the softer sex on terra firma; but the appearance of both as they ascended the bows and approached the Quarter Deck, enthroned on a Gun carriage, filled some of our young northern navigators with a degree of apprehension nearly equal to that already produced by the ducking chair, still pendant from the yard arm. By far the greater half of the officers and crew were on Neptunes List, who received, either in Grog or specie, the Tribute due from them ere they were passed over to the shaving tub; some indeed, rather high in office, who were able to bribe him well, escaped the Iron razor, but all were compleatly soaked.
Towards Sun set all watery hostilities ceased, and the Great God, relinquishing the trident, again assumed his station on the Forecastle,
31 1791 October Equinoctial Line
while Amphitrite and her Nereides, disrobed of their dripping vestments, in jackets and trowsers were soon "themselves again."
9th. At noon the Latitude was 11°..11′ South Longitude by D.R. 24°..33′ West Ther.° 77°. The wind from the East and South East, the air so cool and pleasant as to greatly make amends for the close unsettled weather experienced on the north side near the Line.
10th. The boat was sent on board the Assistant with some refreshments for our worthy messmate Bond, who, shortly after Captain Bligh being taken ill had been sent to take charge of her, Mr. Portlock remaining on board the Providence. It was not always that we lowered the boat down when we wanted to communicate with our little consort, many a fresh joint being veered astern to her by a line. It was now found that we had considerably the advantage of her in sailing making us fearful that, should it be the case on our return from Otahytey we might part company, as the greatest expedition would be necessary in the transportation of the plants; but some alterations Mr. Portlock made in her masts and sails at the Cape of Good Hope, encreased her rate
32 1791 October
of sailing, to nearly that of the Providence.
15th. At Noon the Latitude 21°..56′ South, Longitude by D.R. 25°..06′Wt Ther° 76°. A Shark, and several Dolphins, were taken with hook and line. The latter, about three feet in length. I should say nothing of a fish so often described as the dolphin, but that, the representations of it, even in the very best prints to books of natural history, are erroneous. Perhaps the accompanying drawing will give you a better idea of its shape and colour than any thing that can come from my pen. I have never seen them above five feet in length. In the water they appear of a brilliant light blue, but after being taken on board, and in their approaches to death, become so variegated that any effort at description must fail. The back (dorsal) fin extends nearly the whole length of the fish. The two swiftest fish we know of are the Dolphin and Bonetta, yet nothing can be so diffirent in shape. The former is like a vertical wedge, and to use a shipwrights term, is all run from the head to the tail, while the latter, whose thickness is about two fifths from the head and is a round full fish, has an entrance nearly as sharp as the run. They are both often quoted as models to build from. In
33 1791 October From the Line towards Cape of Good Hope
my own mind I have no doubt but the Bonetta is the fastest of the two, and as to turning or changing its course, it has evidently the advantage. In striking at these fish with the Grains or harpoon, the Bonetta, although presenting a broader mark, is by far the most difficult to hit. The Albicore has much of the character of the Bonetto, but considerably larger. They are all to be caught with hook and line, and it may be considered a kind of Salt water fly fishing, the bait generally being an artificial flying fish towing near the surface. As you are a frequent voyager I would recommend when you attempt this sport, to use a very long line with a wire snood of at least twelve feet, and with a spar, guy the line over the ships quarter, so that the bait may tow clear of the wake. The line should be stopped at the end of the spar with a bit of pack thread, which of course will be broken when a fish takes the bait; but if you wish to be informed without constant watching, you may attach a small bell to the line inside of the pack thread. I have entered so much into detail as I remember you in early days, a keen fisher on the banks of the Avon, before
34 1791 October From the Line towards Cape of Good Hope
you had scarcely heard of the dolphin, the bonetto, or the albacore. of the former indeed, you daily saw a representation at the Inn at Southampton, which no doubt, was as like a Dolphin as "a Whale".
The shark taken had a number of young ones about eighteen inches long in its inside. This I have frequently noticed in the Shark and Dogfish, but in no other case; the latter indeed, may be considered as belonging to the Shark tribe. The catching of a shark generally occasions some bustle on board; and though I believe sailors to have just as much abhorrence of cruelty as other people, every kind of barbarity is too often exercised on these rapacious fish when taken, probably calculating on as little mercy from the shark, was the case reversed. There is indeed something particularly savage about this monster, but it never fell within my own observation, the seizure of a man by them, however much I have been in Latitudes where they abound. Nor did I ever meet, among my numerous acquaintances, any one person who had seen it. After the case of Brook Watson and others nearly as well authenticated, I have no right to doubt of its having occurred; but I believe that, I am not much in error by supposing the
35 1791 October From the Line towards Cape of Good Hope
stories we hear of people being destroyed by sharks are, in general, without foundation. Their size too perhaps is much overrated. I rather think that I never saw one above twelve feet in length. We read often, of their being nearly twice as long. Sailors consider that there are two kinds, the brown and the blue; the latter is frequently seen on the coast of Europe. There is also the Shovel nosed Shark, so called from the formation of the Head. With nearly as much avidity as they are caught, all are eaten by seamen whose stomachs seem disciplined to every kind of fare.
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37 1791 October From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
30th. Latitude 28°..50′ South Longitude 48′ East of Greenwich. Albatrosses and Pintado (in Spanish painted) birds, had been about us, from soon after passing the southern Tropic. The latter is about the size of a Pigeon, web footed, and in form like a duck; beautifully brown and white spotted on the back, with black head, bill, legs, and white breast; but as was said of the Dolphin it were better for you to look at the sketch. They are only to be seen in the southern hemisphere. By baiting a small hook to a piece of gut or neat horse hair line they may be taken.
The Albatross is
38 1791 October From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
perhaps the largest of aquatic birds; its colour like the Gull (and I believe all sea birds) depends upon age and climate: Some are of a dark brown or grey, some nearly white, and others black and white. On examining one some time after at Van Diemans Land, it was found to have a joint more in its wing than birds in general. (I rather imagine that the common sheerwater, the man of war bird, and a few others have this joint). The feathers, particularly on the neck and breast, are of a thick close texture, and common Duck shot had no effect in bringing them down, except under the wings or on the head.
The astonishing length of the wings of the Albatross, and weight of the Sheeps Tails in this part of the world, is what the young Voyager hears enough of to raise his curiosity and stagger his belief, in his way to "The Cape". Of the latter, I shall perhaps speak as we proceed. Of the Albatross examined at Van Diemans Land—and it did not in the least differ from those about the Cape—my veracity will not allow the wings when extended to their utmost limit, to exceed seven feet. Often have I been told of their exceeding twice this length. Nor, have I any right to doubt it. The body of the bird was about the size of that of a Goose.
39 1791 October From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
The flight of the Albatross is rapid and majestic. By the hour I have watched them with immoved wings making their circle high in air, as if weary of skimming oer the surface of the breaking bellow, watchfully in search of prey. When at the latter task their motion is astonishingly rapid, yet so close to the surface that, in the hollow of the intervening wave, (until by a slight motion of the wing, that seems scarcely a hairs breadth from the water, they appear above it) they are shut out from view. These like the Pintado birds, are only to be seen within Southern Latitudes. They are caught baiting a small hook; but a more certain way is to fasten several hooks to the line and jerking it quickly when they partially settle on the water, catch them by the feet. This method I have heard Captain Bligh describe; and that, in the passage of the Bounty near Cape Horn, a great number were taken, and being kept in the Hen coops and crammed with oatmeal, after a few days became tolerably palatable.
A porpoise was struck with the harpoon but disengaged itself; the rest instantly disappeared. It is a received opinion by seamen that, a wounded porpoise even becomes the prey of the rest. For this fact I
40 1791 October, November From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
cannot pretend to vouch, but certain it is that when one of these fish is wounded, the others instantly disappear. I have seen (you must excuse this egotism) the porpoise in every clime apparently of the same kind; a circumstance rather remarkable. In your little Museum at home, you have in excellent preservation the skeleton of the head of one brought to England in the Providence; the snout or proboscis of which in a great measure resembles the bill of a bird. Probably they have acquired the name of bottlenose, by seamen, from this circumstance. It appears to me that, all the whale and porpoise species have a horizontal tail. None of them are ever taken by hook and line.
For several nights there had been a luminous appearance in the sea, particularly where agitated by the progress of the ship. As vast numbers of what are vulgarly called Blubbers were about, it proceeded most probably from them.
3d. A Sea bird, called a Cape Hen, was seen in the morning. It is about the size of a common fowl, of a brown colour, with a white spot on each wing, being very heavy in its flight. They were afterwards noticed at St. Helena.
The ship passed through a quantity of what is called fishes spawn, some of which was taken on board appearing through a magnifying glass, in transparent globules like jelly, of the colour of the water, about the size of a pea. These contained numbers of small yellow specks, but no animation was discoverable.
41 1791 November From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
The luminous appearance before mentioned, it can hardly be doubted, proceeds from these, and various other marine substances; indeed, I have seen it confirmed by their being taken on board. It is denied one to describe these to you as accurately as my inclinations lead; much indeed do I lament my inability, but it is a sailor, not a philosopher, who addresses you. I can tell you the colour of a bird, a fish, or an animal, as well as their shape and size, but exactly of what species, or to what genus they belong, I am in the dark. Of what are nautically called blubbers, there are a great variety in every part of the Ocean. Some are as large as a puncheon, others formed like a snake; of colours so brilliant as not to be described, six or seven yards in length. The most common one, in form very similar to the mushroom, when in the water, evidently possesses animation, making a regular but very slow course. Others I have seen cut in halves without their being apparently susceptible of pain, no spasm or convulsion taking place. The truly elegant little animal, called the Portuguese man of war is among the latter number. The whole of these, certainly communicate the luminous effect in the sea, so often noticed by navigators. Indeed every fish does it, and a school of Dolphin, Porpoises, or Bonettas, playing round a ship at night are to be distinguished nearly as plainly as in the day time, and often fall by the well directed aim of the grains or harpoon. It should be remembered that,
42 1791 November From the Line, towards Cape of Good Hope
many of the blubber species on coming in contact with the human body sting and inflame it to a considerable degree of pain. On the subject of the luminous appearance of the Ocean; recollection carrys me some years back to a voyage, in the course of which, it was exhibited in a very strong degree. It had been calm for some days, a great quantity of the small globules before mentioned being around us when a breeze springing up, encreased by night to a strong gale and a following sea, enabling us to make a progress of eight or ten miles an hour, through, what might be called, a Sea of liquid fire to the utmost horizon. The waves rolling after us on either quarter, were particularly grand, nor was the sky without partaking of this sublime effect. A book of common sized print was easily perused by the reflection from the more agitated water at the ships bows.
As we approached the Southern Cape of Africa, numbers of whales were seen, more indeed, than ever fell under my observation, or indeed since, in any part of the world. It is not extravagant to suppose that they find food on the bank extending from this promontory. I am ignorant what the sustenance of the whale consists of, but the fishermen of Bermuda, where Thetis has lately been, say that of a calm night they frequently, when in their boats, hear the whale feeding on sea grass at the bottom. I cannot here, keep remarking on the whale fishery of Bermuda, which is carried on by boats a few months in the spring, that, the people concerned in it recently requested (such is reported to me) the Admiralty not to fire the morning and evening gun, as it
43 1791 November
drove the whales away. If fish do not possess the organs of hearing, this request was unnecessary, or, was it the concussion that made them withdraw? We must not quit the whales, without observing that, at Bermuda the flesh is frequently eaten, selling at four pence and five pence the pound. It is not inferior to indiffirent seal.
6th. Gannets were never seen, a certain indication of being in soundings, or on the margin of it. From repeated observation in many parts of the world, I never found the appearance of the Gannet deceive in this respect. The land about Table Bay was soon in sight. The Sugar Loaf, a high pyramidical mountain, bearing SSE. The Latitude at Noon was observed in 33°..56′ South.
In the evening we anchored in Table Bay, in less than five fathoms, mooring with a cable each way, the Best Bower to the Westward and the Small to the opposite quarter. The North point of the bay N28°East. Sugar Loaf S79°W. Steeple in Cape Town S50°W, about a mile from the wharf.
In the bay were several vessels of diffirent nations; from India, The American Continent, and Europe.
7th. The Fort in the morning returned our salute with an equal number of guns, and we began
dismantling the two vessels, to refit for the voyage. For the present adieu, I have got you to this
renowned Cape, after the doubling of which, I become licensed to deal in marvelous tales,
nor dare a suspicion be thrown on my veracity.
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