Oct 3-6, 1792 Home Providence Log Oct 10, 1792

Providence Logbook Oct 7-9, 1792

Remarks in Coupang Road Island Timor

Provisions Received at Timor

40 Picols of Rice 2400 pounds of Fresh Beef To Greens supplied while here To 300 Gallons of Arrack To Charges for Men & Craft to fetch fire Wood from Pulo Samow To 34 Tons of Water and Craft to bring it off To 10 Per Cent on Bills in payment of the above To Pilotage

Remarks

The approach of the Westerly Monsoon and the already unsteadyness of the Wind required the most strenuous measures to execute the duties necessary to be done at this place to get out of its influence. We had various things to do besides Wooding and filling up our Water. I was obliged to send a Sloop and a Schooner for Wood, to Pulo Samow, and as the Water could only be got at Tide time out of the River, I likewise hired two Scouts to assist in bringing it on board, as we had about 60 Tons to take in.

I found supplies in large quantities were not to be got, of Arrack and Rice we could not get a sufficiency, fresh Beef we had as much as we wanted, and it was very palatable and good, dressed any way but Roasted. The Karrabow and a small kind of Bullock (like a Guernsey Cow without Horns) were the annimals that afforded this refreshment. Vegetables were very scarce. Rape Greens and Onions, for they had no other, were bought in their miserable Market a few heads at a time as we could pick them up, a sufficiency were nevertheless daily collected to make the broth palatable and wholesome. Mangos, a few Pomegranates, and some Indian Corn with poor half grown Fowls were to be got, but the Corn and Fowls at an extravagant price. Hogs, Sheep, & Goats were about the neighbourhood, but from some cause I cannot account for, I could not get any. To procure a Milk Goat I was obliged to give three that did not give Milk in return. No Naval Stores were to be had, I was therefore through necessity obliged to Sail without an Anchor and Cable which we were much in need of having only two Anchors that would ride the Ship, and but two good Cables.

I found our good Friend Mr. Wanjon very glad to see us, and I made him some presents to show I had not forgot him. He was now Governor and had it in his power to oblige me by expediting our busyness. Whether his promotion was owing to my representation of his conduct to us in the Bountys Launch I cannot say–if it was, he did not appear sensible of it.

The Snow we found lying in the Road belonged to the Company, her Cargo Wax and Sandle Wood. The Captain who had been so attentive to me as to Pilot us into the Road, was extremely anxious about his Sailing, his passage to Batavia could at best, be only accomplished by Variable Winds and a Current setting to the Westward. No Easterly Wind was now to be expected more than from any other quarter, and for that reason his arrival at Batavia could not well be expected before the first Week in November, I however wrote by him to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty an Account of my arrival and proceedings.

The prise of Sandle Wood was 6, 12 & 10 Spanish Dollars per Picol of 125 pounds and the same is Sold from 70 to 80 Spanish Dollars in China. It is supposed the Company lose by keeping up this settlement, individuals are nevertheless said to benefit considerably. Every thing remains in the same state as when I was here 3 years ago.

The first News I heard was, that Captain Edwards had lost the Pandora between New Holland and New Guinea on the 28th August 1791, that the Crew except 30 men who was lost in the Ship (four of whom were the Bountys People) took to the Boats. Captain Edwards with the two first arrived the 17th September and the day following the other two Boats arrived, 99 Men altogether. Before the Ship was lost they had parted Company with their Shallop, and never heard of her, untill in their way to Batavia, they found her taken possession of at Sourabyah, and the Men confined in Prison. On the 5th October they all Sailed in a Companys Ship from Coupang, and on the 7th November arrived at Batavia, from whence the Crew was taken to Europe in different Vessels that Sailed towards the latter end of the same Month.

Captain Edwards gave some short account of the loss of the Ship to the Governor, which was taken so little care of as not to be found. A letter I wrote to Mr. Wanjon by the Pandora was delivered, and was an introduction independent of their misfortune. They had assured Mr. Wanjon I was to follow them, and yet as they had left Otaheite, they quited Timor without giving me one Word of information.

The next interesting piece of News was the Arrival of a Six Oared Cutter from Port Jackson with 8 Men one Woman and two Children. They had deserted from the Settlement the 28th March 1791 and arrived the 5 of June at Timor. The principal represented himself as Mate of a Whale Fisher that was lost, and all but themselves perished, and had written a very ingenious account of their misfortunes that gained them protection untill one of the Party informed, through peak [pique] at not being taken so much notice of as the rest. They were all sent to Batavia in the same Ship with Captain Edwards.

The Day before I sailed, after being disappointed at having to written account to judge of Captain Edwards misfortune, and teazing the Governor to find that which was left, he presented me with a correct Journal kept in the Convict Boat, but declared he had no other.

This Journal was very distinctly kept and titled Remarks on a Voyage from Sydney Cove New South Wales to Timor. It gave an account of every thing as it really happened and from this the fictious one was formed.

It appears these Men had taken away a fishing Boat that Governor Phillip had intrusted them with. They had provided themselves with the immediate necessary articles both of Food and for the safety of the Boat; and they had a Seine which they frequently hauled with success. Two Musquets were all the Arms they had, and with these they kept the Natives in awe as they coasted along shore from Port Jackson round the Northern part of New Holland. Fish and Cabbages are the general supplies spoken of, I suppose they mean Mountain Cabbage. They had Flour and Pork in the Boat, but the quantity not mentioned. Besides a Grapnel and Nails, Bees Wax and Rosin was not forgot, and mention is made of repairing the Boat and paying her bottom.

To the Southward they found the Natives armed only with Spears and Shields, but to the Northward among the Islands in Endeavor Straits (as I apprehend) they had Bows and Arrows.

In Latitude 32 Degrees South about 2 Leagues from the Shore these unhappy People speak of having discovered a Shoal with only 5 and 6 Feet Water on it.

On the 28th March at 11 PM the Journals say they sailed from Sydney Cove and stood to the NE. On March the 30th. after Variable Winds and Weather they bore away for a small Creek; having the Wind contrary. Here they caught Mullet and repaired the Boat. "Walking along shore towards the enterence of the Creek we found several large pieces of Coal, seeing so many pieces we thought it was not unlikely to find a Mine, and searching about a little, we found a place where we picked up with an Ax as good Coals as any in England, took some to the fire and they burned exceedingly well."

On the 31st. March at 6 AM they left his place, and on the 1st of April says, they were in the Latitude 33..20S. On the Afternoon of the 2d they was a fine Harbour which they entered and describes to be superior to Sydney. Hence they ranged along the Coast frequently getting supplies of Fish, undergoing many difficulties untill they arrived at Timor. The Woman and Children bore the fatigue wonderfully well and not one person died.

The Latitude and distances run is not regularly kept up so as to assertain the different places they stopt at, but the Journal in other respects is clear and distinct. and shows the writer must have been a determined and enterprising Man.

I was too ill and the time too short for me to Copy the Journal, I however employed a person about it, but he did not get a fourth part through it. The Circumstance of the Coals being found may make the Account valuable, but I am sorry I could not assertain its exact situation. Captain Edwards who had sufficient time and leasure I hope has done all this. The Journalist remarks that it was with difficulty he got the Boat into the Creek, there being Shoal Water across it, but he backed the Boat in without receiving any damage.

During my stay here I had not a moments intermition from a violent head Ach, and at times slight touches of the Fever. About Mid-day my Brains felt like being in a state of boiling. From 8 in the Morning to 5 in the Afternoon I dared not expose myself to the Sun, and in that interval I suffered a great deal from the extreme heat of the land, which caused the Winds to be heated, and to parch every thing it blew upon. The Houses too, from the Red tyling that forms the Roof, were heated like Ovens, so that Morning and Evening were the only parts of the Day at all bearable. For 7 Months not a drop of Rain had fallen, and perhaps not untill the middle of November will the Season set in. The last Year from a dreadfull draught they had, almost a famine in Indian Corn and Rice, so that these articles became scarce and double the price at this time.

October November and December I think are unhealthy Months. When the Rains have been set in about a Month, and the land sufficiently filled and cooled, the Air must become better, and in all these Countries with respect to the Air of the Climate; it must be at its worst at the latter part of the dry Season and beginning of the wet. The Wet Seasons in most Countrys are only unhealthy as they produce Colds; or in confined Situations bad Air, the latter may be obviated by fire, and by due precaution a great deal may be prevented of the former.

Our Otaheite Friends who had hitherto seen nothing to make up to them for leaving their own Country, were exceedingly delighted with the Houses and sight of Europeans, as it conveyed to them some Idea of what they were to see in England. They disliked the Malay People because they had dirty mouths and black teeth. Seeing a few of them in Chains created some surprise, but as soon as they knew the cause they were satisfied it was just and proper. There is however great severity in this Country to preserve power. The Brother of a King who considered it his right to Reign after his Death, altho the King had left a Son who was approved of by the Dutch to succeed his Father, made some opposition which caused him to be declared a Rebel. In hopes of forgiveness he gave himself up, but contrary to his expectation he was sent away in the Snow for Batavia, from whence he will be banished for life.

He bore his fate and embarked with great fortitude, but it was an affecting picture of fallen royalty to see the distress of many of his adherents and Friends who attended him to the Water side.

I can assign no Cause, but our loss of Breadfruit Plants at this time amounted to 224 Pots. If care and attention could have kept them alive, it was not wanting. Better fortune I hope will attend us in the remaining part of our Voyage. The Botanists have been dilligently employed to make up with what could be got here, and with Natives I procured to assist the, they have collected 92 Pots of the best Fruit Plants and others this place produceth. I used every effort with the Governor to procure me some Mountain Rice. He had it only in his power to get 8 Gallons which was brought from the Country the Night before I sailed. The Plants taken up at this place are 6 Pots of Mangos, 7 of Jambolang, 20 Pots of Jambos, 4 of Balumbeng or Blimbing, 6 Chermailah, 2 Karambola, 6 Lemon monesang or Lemon China, 4 Cosamber, 3 Cattahpas, 4 Bread Fruit, or Sucoom Beejee, 6 Seereeboah, 5 Seeree down, 4 Peenang, or Beetle Nutt. Shrubs. 3 Bintaloo 4 Dangreedah. Fine Trees which they perfume with, 5 Bughnah, Kanangah, 2 Jatte, Grass the root a perfume, 1 Seeree bandang.

The Nanka or Jack they could get no Plant of, or of the Boabidarah & Namnam but of the seed we got a few.

The Astronomical Observation made at this place are but few, the 9 Sets taken on Shore which with my Observations at Sea reduced up to Coupang, being nearly an equal number each side of the Moon I have no doubt give the Longitude very exact. It is high Water at 11 or ¼ past 11 O'Clock AM and the Springs rise 9 Feet..6 Inches, Common Tide 8 feet..8 Inches.

The Time Keepers as they have generally done differ from one another, nevertheless I believe the mean of the three has always been within a quarter of a degree of the truth, if not exact. The Dutch consider the Longitude of Coupang 138°..20′ East from the Peak of Teneriffe which is 121°..51′ East of Greenwich and the Latitude 10°..11′S. By me it is 123°..40′..54″E and in 10°..10′S. The Variation of the Compass 1°..01′ West.

I had promised myself to have done a great deal at this place, but ill health has prevented me. Bad as I have been, (at a great risk) I have endeavored to make every thing clear to any person who may follow me, so that this place may now be visited without difficulty or hazard.

My Sketch of Samow Straits is not so complete as I could wish it, except in its principal boundaries. In coming from the Eastward it is known by the Isles of Rottie, from the NE part of which the South part of the Straits (or West part of Timor) bears North distant 8 Miles. The South point of Timor lies about 2 or 3 Miles only to the Eastward of the West point, or South point of the Straits. The South entrance of the Straits is 3 Miles across, and the North entrance about 2 Miles. The whole length may be called 5 Leagues NEbN and SWbS. On Pulo Samow side lies a lofty Island called Pulo Cambing in a Bay full of Shoals. A Shoal of Rocks lie off the West end of Timor about ½ Mile in all other places we found the Shores Rocky and Steep to without Anchorage, except to the Southward of the 2nd Point, and about the East part of Samow. In these places you lie near the Shore on a loose Sandy bottom. In many places we had 20 fathoms within 20 yards of the Shore. The Flood Tide comes from the Southward.

Coupang lies 6 Miles from the East end of Samow. As a Ship advances towards the Town, good Anchorage is to be got within a half Mile of the Shore. The bottom is extremely good, but the bank narrow and between it Pulo Karee and Samow, no bottom but at great depths. From Dampiers authority we know there is good Anchorage on the North side of the Bay, and along shore from Coupang to the Eastward. Our Pilot confirmed it, for this reason when the Winds are variable, as at this time, it is better to go out to the Eastward of Pulo Karee, then between it and Samow where with Calms a Ship is hussled about with great uncertainty.

Pulo Karee is a small low Island 5 Miles N14°W from the Town surrounded by a Reef which must be carefully attended to. It may be seen in favorable Weather from aloft.

The NE part of Coupang Bay is very Mountainous Land. The Shores are in general low. Fresh Water is got from a fine River that runs through the Town, but it is brackish if taken up with a flowing Tide, unless the Casks are rolled a considerable distance above where it may be had conveniently at low Water.

Dampier is erroneous in his distances from place to place. See his Account.

More particular remarks of this Country are in the Account of my first Voyage to this Place.

I have determined the Latitude of a few places in this Neighbourhood as follows—

A High Mountain on the SE part of Rottie	10°..40′ South
The North part of Rottie	10..27
The South point of Timor	10..23
The South Point of Pulo Samow	10.. 6½
The North part of Pulo Samow	10..20½
Concordia Castle Coupang	10..10 123°..41′ East

Oct 3-6, 1792 Home Providence Log Oct 10, 1792