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Providence Logbook Sep 17, 1792

Remarks Monday 17th September 1792 Coast of New Guinea

Remarks

At ½ past Noon I made the Signal to the Assistant and came to in coarse ground about 1⅓ Mile from the Northermost of three small Isles, and about 5 or 6 from the NE part of Island R. Since we left Dungyness, no Cannoes have been seen, and only a few Natives on the Brothers. The small Isles next to us were without Inhabitants, I therefore sent Lieut. Guthrie with two Boats to land on the Northermost Island to hoist our Colours, and take possession. I also sent the Botanists to see what they could pick up.

I now found the High Mountain on Island R to lie in Latitude 10°..12′ South Longitude 142°..14′ East. Deducing its Longitude from Cape York ([a marginal note indecipherable]) it lies in 141°..32′ East being 4 Miles West of it by my Map, which places it in 10°..15′ South. I have no doubt of it being the Mountainous Island I have described with a very high round Hill, the difference in my own Latitude of 3 Miles, and 42 Miles in its possition of Longitude between Captain Cook and me, is admissible. In this case the North part of New Holland is placed 42 Miles too far to the West.

To the Northward of Island R in the account of my last Voyage I allowed a Navigator to hope for a clear passage. Hitherto I have found a very intricate one, and now no better prospect. Isles and Shoals being scattered in every direction that I must proceed in. The most elligible seemed to be to the West between the Island V and U. The Island V is the next in size to R, if not equally large: the extent of Coast of each of them may be about 6 or 7 Leagues. R is more Woody and appeared to have tolerable Bays on its North side that may shelter Ships from the SE Wind. Between it and V I believe is such Shoal Water that no Ship can pass between them. Island U is not one third as large as V, about it lie several lofty small Isles. The largest lying to the ESE of it, I called Passage Island, for with a remarkable black Rock (that lies South of it near an Island like possession Island) it formed the Passage I was to go through. The Sandy Key to the ENE of Possession Island indicated Shoals all the way to long Island. I called it possession Island from the circumstance of taking Possession. It is an inconsiderable lump of Rocks and Stones like two others which lie to the SE of it, bearing a few Shrubs and small Trees. To these Islands the Indians come for Turtle. Our Party saw a number of Shells lying on the beach, a Sandy point where they landed. Near this were 20 or 30 small Cocoa Nutt Trees bearing Fruit. They gathered a few, and found them very delicious. Trees of the same Fruit as the Native brought to us at Island H (which the Malays call Low,) were here; but had no Fruit on them. The Botanists saw many curious and new Plants, and collected about a score of good Specimens. They found the Pee,ah and Nonah of Otaheite. No marks of any Quadruped was observed. A beautifull little lizard was seen among some loose Stones, and the webbed nests of Ants, the same as I have described to be on the Coast of New Holland. A few Oysters that adhere to the Rocks, small Clams and a kind of Wilks, were likewise seen; but not a drop of Water. In all other respects it appeared to me like the Island of Restoration which lies in 12°..38′ South, discovered in my last Voyage.

Doves and some pretty Birds were about the Island, but so remarkably shy they did not come within Shot.

We lay all Night with much motion, for altho we had the Isles in the SE yet a considerable Sea run into the Road.

At dawn of day having fully informed Lieut. Portlock how to proceed, I sent two Boats on board of him with orders to weigh, and lead out between the Islands V and U. Unfortunately in Weighing our Anchor, it came up with only one Arm, it appeared to have had an old flaw in it, this was a serious loss to me. I ordered the Cable to be bent to the spare Anchor, and a Buoy lashed on the broken Arm of the other.

To render the Boats of use to us we were obliged to Sail under close Reef Top Sails, for it blew so fresh they could not keep a head of us otherwise. As we advanced to the Westward passing between Black Rock and Passage Island, we saw several lofty Islands to the Southward of the opening between B and R. Soon after we discovered reefs one overlapping another, a range of Rocky Keys to the Westward, and about the North side of Island V, with Shoal Water from the Northermost Key round to Island U and passage Island. To the North of Island U I have before remarked the probability of no Passage, I had therefore no great prospect but to creep through the way I was going. The Assistant being advanced farther on, was obliged to come to an Anchor, and the Flood Tide was running so strong, that I could not beat out of the labyrinth I was in, to wait untill I could explore farther with my Boats, which were now making the Signals of danger in every direction. Lieut. Portlock was so situated that he feared to make the Signal for me to follow him; but as my anchoring ground was bad, and he made the Signal for good Bottom where he was, and I thought the place more sheltered; I bore up, conning the Ship from the Mast Head between the Reefs. When I came near the Assistant, I found the Tide running at a fearfull rate, I therefore furled all Sails before we came to and anchored. The rapidity with which the Cable run out can only be conceived by those who have seen Ships brought up in a strong Tide; but to my horror, when the half Cable came out, it had the Dog Stopper on, which altho I cut it immediately, the Ship brought up so violently, that the Anchor came home; and by letting go a second Anchor I had it but just in my power to save the Ship from the Rocks. The Men (who were Quarter Masters) that had done this Act, were no more faulty than their Officer who was in the Tier to command them. I therefore did not punish them as I could not with propriety flog him. The Master declared he had never given the order for the Stopper to be put on; and it appeared it was done to prevent too much Cable going out, they they might not have the trouble to get it in again.

Untill slack tide nothing could be done but to prepare to get the Anchors up. We were now Anchored on the North part of Island V. It has a barrier of Rocky Keys and Reefs around it, forming narrow Guts of passage with Shoals all the way to Island U. The pass I thought the most elligible for us, bore WbS between some Rocky Keys not a ¹⁄₆ of a Mile across, and about 1 Mile distant from us; to examine which ordered away two Boats with Lieutenants Guthrie and Tobin. I directed them to land on one of the Isles from whence they might be able to see the Shoals; and after examining the Anchorage to report to me by Signal, if it was good and the Passage practicable.

The Island V appeared a miserable burnt up country, it had nevertheless Wood in some places. The Rocky Keys that were about it resembled those off the Coast of Norway. Between the Northermost of these Keys and Island U is a space of about 3 Miles that promised a safe passage; but from our Mast Heads it appeared so shut up with Shoals, I did not attempt to explore it minutely.

We saw four Cannoes lurking along shore towards the Assistant.

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