Revised Aug 27 2021
1 pm: Fresh Breezes & Fair Weather. At 1½ hour we fell in with an
extensive Bank to the Southward of O Island, some parts of it was dry and large black
Stones spotted the surface of it. I made the Signal to prepare to Anchor and the Assistant and
Boats to explore. She made me the Signal to follow. I bore up, Boats leading about 1½
Mile from the Bank in 14 & 15 fathoms Water
At 3 hour..20′ brought up in 17 fathoms hard Ground (for we had no choice) off the
point of the Bank bearing S5°E to S62°E about ¾ of a Mile O S89°W to
N68W Point of its Spit N60°W 3 Miles. An Island on the West part of the great Reef called
P N7°W 5 Miles. A Woody Key S25°E 3 or 4 Leagues. A long flat Island S29°W
to S42°W. I sent the Master with two Boats to Sound.
A Cannoe came near to the Ship, and went off with the Boats. It was 10 OClock before they
got back, the Tide was so strong against them.
Lay with a ½ Cable during the Weather Tide, and a whole during the lee Tide. The Ground
about us very indifferent and Rocky, & our situation rather dangerous. Struck Top Gallant Masts
and hoisted the Boats in. We called the Bank Dungyness, and an Island S76°W 6 Leagues Turtle
backed Island.
At daylight Saw several Cannoes about the Reefs. Two lay on Dungyness, 8 Men in each. A Cannoe
making signs for us to come to them. The others, 7 or 8 lay near Island P. Hoisted out the
Boats and waited for the Weather tide to make.
At high Water great part of Dungyness covered, and the Tide is not Slack above 10 Minutes.
Situation of this Anchoring Place
Latitude 9°..50′ South
Longitude 142..55 East
12 mid: Fresh Breezes Weighed under 3 Reefs in each Top Sail. Backed and Filled to the
Eastward, and supposing the passage to the Southward of O intricate bore up to go between
it and P.
Several Cannoes lurking about the Reefs.
At ½ past One in our course to the Island O, we fell in with a very dangerous and extensive Reef that made it doubtfull for us how to proceed. I made the Signal to the Assistant to to [sic] be ready for Anchoring, and at the same time to explore with the Boats, while I could keep on a Wind. We soon discovered the Reef was detached from Island O, and we came to an Anchor off the Point of the Reef and Bank, having passed along the East side of it in 15 fathoms. The Tide run 3 Knots, and the bottom being bad we rode with great risk. The Weather Tide could only now get us out of this situation, as running to the Southward of O Island was hazardous from the light coloured Water that we saw, and at any rate, going with a lee Tide in the place we were in, could only be done through madness or folly. It was Noon therefore when we were under Sail with the first of the Ebb setting strong to the Eastward.
A great part of this Bank covers at high Water. It is made up of Coral, and the surface is spotted with a number of small Rocks. I called the Point Dungyness, and the Island O Dungyness Island, between which and Island P appeared the best Passage for the Ships to proceed. Island P is a small woody spot as the most of the Sandy Keys are, and is inhabited, but the Island O seems to be made up of Rock about 4 or 6 Miles round, low and covered with an impenetrable Forrest. Altho I did not approve of going through to the Southward of it, I now apprehend there is a safe Channel towards some higher Islands, one of which from its appearance was called Turtle Backed Island.
A Cannoe came off to us in the Evening, and would have come alongside, but the Boats quitting the Ships, the Cannoe followed them under Sail towards Island P, where they parted company without any communication. The Sails of these Cannoes are made of matting in an oblong form, and rudely stitched together. The Mast to which it is hoisted consists of two Bamboo Poles, the lower ends fixed close together in the bottom of the Cannoe, and the upper ends extended the width of the Sail, from whence it is hoisted, travelling upon two guys. Some Cannoes have two of these Sails. They are always fixed in the fore part of the Cannoe close together. We observe them always row well to Windward before they set their Sail, and I think they have a piece of Plank which they sometimes make use of as a lee board.