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Fateful Voyage

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Revised Aug 27 2021

Providence Logbook Sep 6, 1792

Remarks Thursday 6 September 1792 New Guinea

 1 pm: Moderate Breezes & fair Weather with much haze. The Pinnace and Cutter returned.

 4 pm: Caught a few Fish, a pretty pale red and Silver coloured kind of Bream and a sucking Fish, the sucker on the upper part of the head.

 8 pm: Fresh Breezes and Cloudy.

 4 am: A Fine Sand and Clay came up with the Lead.

 6 am: At ½ past 6 Weighed. Sent the Cutter and Whale Boat to the Assistant to lead a head and Sound, bore away for Cannoe Key Sounding 21 & 22, 20 & 21 the Key South about ½ or ¾ of a Mile.

 8 am: Island A N5°W to N22°W 3 Leagues B S51°E C S48°E Saw other small Islands to the Westward called E & F. Saw several Cannoes among Sandy Keys to the Westward and some coming towards us, more land in the West.

10 am: Anchored per Signal from the Assistant A N52°E to N68°E 4 Miles E N47°W 4 Miles F N59°W Two Sandy Keys S21°W & S64°E* At 11 I sent the Assistant and Boats to proceed & examine the Passage to the NNW.

* a Sandy Key forming a passage South of E N84°W 3 Miles.

12 noon: Fair Weather Assistant under Sail to the NNW and Boats Sounding. A Cannoe coming up to us, Several having been to the Assistant before she Weighed. About 15 Men in each.
 Found the bottom to be a tough Clay and Sand.
  Latitude of this Anchoring Place 9°..37′ South
  Longitude   Ditto   143..41 East

Remarks

At 1 Mr. Tobin returned, both his and the Master's report was, they had found a deep Water Channel but narrow. It was now too late to risk going down lest we should not have time to get into good Anchoring Ground for the Night, I was therefore very reluctantly obliged to remain. Our safety could only oblige me to it, for I see with great concern the danger we are in of losing our Voyage by delays of an intricate navigation.

Mr. Tobin informed me he was overtaken by a Cannoe about 50 feet long with 15 Men in her, that when about 15 Yards from his, they offered him a Cocoa Nutt which he refused, making signs to them to proceed to the Ship; upon this they immediately got their Bows ready, and he saw their intention was to send some Arrows at him; in self defence therefore, he says he was obliged to fire at them, and the whole Boats Crew, 7 Men, fired into the Cannoe and no doubt did some mischief for the poor Wretches immediately quitted them. This was the most melancholy account I could receive, all my hopes to have a friendly intercourse with the Natives were now lost.

At Sun rise we Weighed and Sailed under 3 Reefs, the Assistant and Boats a head and on each Bow leading, and Hands at the Mast Head conning the Ship. We run in past Cannoe Key and the Reef off A Island, where it was about half a Mile wide, with 21 fathoms Water, and from thence steering to the NW we Anchored in a fine Sand and Clay bottom, for I was affraid to run the risk of going farther lest the Anchoring ground might be lost, before I could explore with the Assistant and my Boats; and in the Afternoon the Suns light does not refract the Shoals and show them as in the Morning. At ½ past 11 the Assistant Weighed to explore per Signal.

Island A is prettily interspersed with Trees (among which are the Cocoa Nutt and Plantain) and clear Patches, but the latter are burnt up, and the most luxuriant of the Trees have a very poor Verdure. Saw Several Cannoes, and about 100 Natives on the Sandy Beaches. Could observe some of their Dwellings that appeared neatly thatched and fenced round. the Cannoes looked long and low, about 12 were seen. Island A by my Map lies in Latitude 9°..34′ South & Longitude 143°..45′ East.

No Wind could send any Sea into this Anchoring place except from the North, and from thence I suspect there lie so many Banks, it would not endanger a Ship's riding at any time of the year. If Island A produces Water, and a good footing could be gained with the Natives, it would be an elligible stopping place to refresh at. The passage in from Cannoe Key is perfectly safe, borrowing on Island A side to clear the detached Reefs that lie to the Southward. When abreast of A's Sandy Key, the Passage is about 3 Miles wide, and fine Anchoring Ground. How far the Reefs extend to the NNE of Island A is uncertain, if they do not connect with the North Reef; the passes what ever they are, are likely to be dangerous, for in that part we saw no land. Some Sandy Keys lying in the West, I determined to proceed to the Northward round two Woody Keys or Isles E & F. As our Anchoring at this time was only through caution I ordered Lieut. Portlock to Weigh again and with the Boats to explore between A and E.

While the Assistant was at an Anchor several Cannoes went alongside of her and traded with their Bows and Arrows for Iron of any kind. They took care to make good bargains, but were honest and readily gave up what was agreed for. On account of these Cannoes being about us I could not send my Boats away without the Assistant, otherwise I might have accomplished with them alone a sufficient knowledge of the Passage.

These people expressed a great deal of surprise at seeing the Ships, they were however perfectly acquainted with the use and value of Iron, and called it Tooree or Toorick. Their implements of War were the only things they had for traffick, except a few Plantains and a Yam or two. There were about 15 Men in a Cannoe. Lieut. Portlock made signs for them to come to me, only one of them however showed any inclination, who seperated from the rest and came towards the Ship. The readyness with which these People went on board the Assistant gives me hope that no injury was done to them on Yesterday by our Boats.

At Noon the Assistant and Boats were under Sail about 5 Miles from us exploring the Passage between A and E.

It is impossible for me to forsee what delay may attend me in this Strait. The want of Water may not be the least of our difficulties, I therefore in order to reduce the expenditure of our Stock, ordered the distilling Apparatus to be got ready. Hitherto we have been at an Allowance of two Quarts a day. A Puncheon of Water serve the Plants two Days and sometimes three.


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