Pitcairn's Island  Notes  Source  Whalesite

Extract from report by
Commander Umfreville (H.M.S. Shearwater)
(February 6, 1903)

      20. The Governor informed me that on a recent visit to Mangariva he had met Mr McCoy, Chief Magistrate of Pitcairn and gave me to understand that Mr McCoy had remarked to him on the want of interest taken in Pitcairn by the British and that they were so seldom visited by any man-of-war. The Governor also appeared to seek information from me of the hoisting of the British Flag at Oeno, Henderson and Ducie, of which

I had been luckily only just informed by the Consul.

      I would respectfully submit as a suggestion that the Consul at Tahiti be given jurisdiction over Pitcairn and adjacent British Islands; communication between Tahiti and Mangariva takes place every six weeks; the latter is only 300 miles from Pitcairn and with the cutter the islanders now have they could connect with this steamer at Mangariva and in this manner the Island would be in regular communication with the Consul here and the outside world and the visit of a man of war would cease to be the absolute necessity it is now, with the Consul to direct affairs in the island. The Consul or Vice Consul could no doubt pay a periodical visit to the island if required. At

present a man of war has to spend four or five months annually, travel many thousand miles at an expense to the British Empire of thousands of pounds in order to visit a community of under 160 people for a day or two, when all the man of war can do could practically be carried out by the Consul here, at an increased cost to the state, small out of all proportion to the expense of a ships visit, thereby saved; not to mention the fact of the ship being available for other duties during this long period.

      When at Pitcairn I discussed this matter with Mr McCoy who entirely agreed with me and thought that the islanders would as a whole be also glad if the idea could be carried out. Mr McCoy also informed me that the Governor of

Tahiti had had no such conversation with him as he, the Governor had led me to believe and in fact only a few words passed between them; he also told me that undoubtedly the French had an idea that Pitcairn would be an advantageous addition to French Oceania and had indirectly tried to see if the Pitcairn islanders would like the idea; this of course was done through no official source and would be absolutely impossible to substantiate in any way whatever.

Pitcairn Island

      22. I arrived off Western End of Pitcairn about 7.30 am on 16th January with a fresh N.E. wind blowing and a rather heavy sea running. There appeared no possible landing at Western landing place so I steamed round by South Side to abreast Bounty Bay. The Sea was much

too heavy to admit of anchoring there so the ship stood off and on under easy steam during my stay there.

      23. Notwithstanding the heavy sea, the islanders came off through the surf in a double banked whale-boat, pulling 12 oars, which they managed with the utmost skill and pluck. Gerard Bromley Christian, acting in Mr McCoy's place (he being away in the cutter, on a trip to Mangariva, but daily expected back) came onboard to see me, and after getting a good deal of information from him and delivering mails etc. I landed with him accompanied by Dr Scribner; the boat was taken through the surf, after waiting some ten minutes for a smooth interval, with the greatest skill and shipped very little water. I walked about the island and visited

of the houses with Mr Christian, also the church (not yet quite finished), school etc. I attended a meeting of most of the inhabitants in the School room and spoke a few words to them and individually also to most of the older and important inhabitants of both sexes.

      24. I found no questions which required settlement by me and only one appeal from any inhabitant; this was from Coffin, the American, who asked me to sign a paper he had made out, naturalizing him as a British subject. He stated that he had been 20 years on the island and was at present a member of their parliament, but was sometimes taunted with the fact that he was not British. I informed him, I was unable to grant his request, but it might be done through the High Commissioner of

the Western Pacific. I had reason to believe that the step was not advantageous to the community, so did not encourage it. Mr McCoy afterwards told me that my views were quite in accordance with his and the majority of the islanders on this matter. This man endeavoured to obtain some wine on board the Ship, and I think is the only man in the island who would do so. I gathered together 30 or 40 of the inhabitants with women and children, for the Doctor to examine with regard to the teeth question, and returned on board about 3 p.m. through a surf even worse than when I landed. I took some goats and vegetables for the ships company and fruits etc. as well. I also supplied the islanders with many small items such as nails, screws etc. from ships,

consumable stores and also one bale of flannel (105 yards) free of payment which I hope will be approved of. Shortly after I got on board, Mr McCoy arrived in the cutter "Pitcairn", and I was able to go into all the questions that had suggested themselves to me, in a very satisfactory manner, having while on shore had a good opportunity of making my own observations and getting opinions from other sources.

      25. The island appears in a flourishing and happy condition and there seems no cause of complaint, and the moral atmosphere seems quite satisfactory. The population of 153 consists of 74 males and 79 females (27 men are married); the preponderance of females once reported seems to have reduced and requires no steps to be taken.

      26. The island produces sweet potatoes, pumpkins, bananas, arrowroot, watermelons, pineapples, oranges etc. and also goats and fowls are abundant, the former about 200. Arrowroot, dried bananas, salt fish and fowls are exported to Mangariva and fetch good prices, also pumpkins. The "pidgin" English is still spoken but Miss Rosalind Young informed me that it was slightly better than it used to be; Miss Young is in charge of the school. A separate report on the question of teeth is forwarded herewith.

      27. The Islanders are now in possession of a cutter of about 10 or 12 tons which they bought (through the Consul at Tahiti) with £200 advanced them by the British Government. With

this cutter they make trips about once a month to Mangariva (which is in steam communication with Tahiti) taking their produce for sale, and bringing back such necessaries as they require. Every trip she calls at Oeno, to see if any ship-wrecked crews are there and Mr McCoy has been to Henderson and Ducie Islands to hoist the British Flag by instructions from the Consul at Tahiti. I have written a separate letter with regard to proposed light-house on Oeno, and probable help from Pitcairn Islanders. Mr McCoy finds the cutter rather too small and wants when they have saved enough money to sell her and buy a schooner of 20 or 30 tons, which I should say from all points of view would be better. In my report on Tahiti, I

have referred to the island being placed under the jurisdiction of the Consul at Tahiti; this will be all the more advisable if the island is going to develop its trade.

      28. I had a conversation with Mr. McCoy as to a successor to himself and he said Gerard Bromley Christian was the most fitting, but there is undoubtedly noone on the island up to Mr McCoy's standard.

      29. I cannot say whether it is from greater facilities for communication with the outer world, and birth of a small trade, or whether the trait has always been present, but I was struck with a rather general sense of a love of money on the part of the inhabitants; they are most keen to sell, at rather high prices, anything they have and

to get anything for nothing, if possible, or as cheaply as they can; of course this does not apply to Mr McCoy or anyone in authority.

      30. The Tahitian blood seems to be more in evidence than the English strain, both in the appearance and in the daily life of the islanders, though they seem very British in their loyalty, and their pluck and skill in boatwork is beyond all praise. One trip made through the surf in my presence I could not have believed it possible for any but a life-boat to attempt, and the boat was more than half full before getting clear of the breakers.

      31. The health of the community seems very good. I had a conversation

with Thursday October Christian, the oldest inhabitant, (88) a very hale and hearty looking old man, who, I was told, can still do a good days work.

      The work by inhabitants, religion, and everything else not commented on in this report are as when last reported on, as far as I could discover.

      32. Mr McCoy is expecting a difficulty shortly when Captain Jones, now Master of the cutter, leaves here, as he will be unable to find anyone with a certificate to replace him. Several young men on the island are being instructed in Navigation and will soon be proficient but they of course can have no certificate. I suggested making enquiries of the Consul at Tahiti as to whether a provisional certificate would not be granted to these

young men at Tahiti, when prepared to pass a provisional examination.

      33. Mr McCoy has been a great deal away from the island lately visiting Oeno, Henderson and Ducie to hoist the Flag, and on trips to Mangariva but hopes in future it will not be necessary for him to go in the cutter so frequently.

      34. He informed me the weather was too bad to allow of me landing at Oeno, Henderson, or Ducie, but gave me all the information he could about them; that about Oeno I have embodied in my report re lighthouse.

Henderson I^d

      35. Henderson is apparently a large island with quantities of mero wood, good planting ground round the edges for cocoa-nuts, and excellent fishing.

      In places it is about 500ft high by Mr McCoy's account but I should think this over-estimated, judging by former accounts.

      36. Ducie has a good lagoon with possibility of shells in it, but there is no known entrance through reefs, yet it is low and like Oeno, but reefs do not extend out so far.

      37. Mr McCoy was extremely grateful for the advice I gave him on various subjects he brought up, and heartily agreed with everything I suggested, my views apparently entirely coinciding with his own.

      38. I arrived at Easter 7 a.m. 25 January and anchored in Cook Bay. Mr Cooper, (English), Manager for

E. Merlet & Co (who have leased the island for 25 years) came on board; Mr. Cooper is also appointed by the Chilian Government as maritime sub-delegate and has entire charge of the island. 39. The state of the island is much as given in Sailing Directions but no stock is exported, only wool, hides, tallow etc. There are about 240 or 250 inhabitants, almost all Kanakas. Communication is by steamer every six months and a Chilian man of war also makes a visit at the same intervals of time. Over 100 high priced rams are expected here shortly to improve the breed, the wool of which even now commands double the price of Chilian wool owing to its fine texture. Beef and mutton can be obtained in

unlimited quantities, but vegetables are very scarce. 40. I think it probable that if E. Merlit & Co's schooner were to go on to Pitcairn, each trip calling at Easter I^d on her way back, it would be of great benefit to both islands, and Mr Cooper agrees with me in this. The schooner could take on to Pitcairn flour and other articles which are difficult to obtain there and could bring back mero wood for which there is an unlimited demand at Easter I^d, arrowroot, fowls and even fruit and vegetables and possibly a few Pitcairn Islanders as labour will be in increasing demand at Easter I^d now the sheep are on the increase, Mr Cooper hopes to have 100,000 in a few years time.

      41. Mr Cooper informs me that syphilis is terribly prevalent among the natives, but those affected are kept more or less apart from those free.

      Captain Charles Henry Umfreville, R.N. (1861 – 1913) was an officer in the Royal Navy. Commander Umfreville commissioned H.M.S. Shearwater in 1901 with 104 officers and men. The Shearwater then relieved the Icarus on the Royal Navy's Pacific Station where she toured the Bering Sea and visited Honolulu before reaching Pitcairn Island in early 1903.

Document no. 123. February 6, 1903. "Extract from report by Commander Umfreville (H.M.S. Shearwater)". Pages 1752 t0 1787.

Pitcairn's Island  Notes  Source  Whalesite