Pitcairn's Island  Notes  Source  Whalesite

Sir,

      I have the honour to submit for Your Excellency's information a report on my visit to Pitcairn.

      2. The S.S. Corinthic left Wellington at daybreak on the 22nd November and reached Pitcairn on Sunday, the 1st December, at noon. Before leaving Wellington, Mr. F. Findlay, New Zealand representative of the Shaw, Savill and Albion Company, Limited, had kindly given me an assurance that, if the weather permitted, arrangements would be made to enable me to spend two or three hours on the island. At the time of our arrival a moderate wind was blowing from the south-east quarter, causing a choppy sea. Fortunately, with the wind in the south it is usually possible to land on the beach near Adamstown, which is protected by a small natural breakwater of rocks to the north. This is the landing which Sir Cecil Rodwell was unable to use on the occasion of his visit owing to the northerly direction of the wind on that day.

      3. Since the date of Sir Cecil Rodwell's visit the island has acquired a small wireless set and by this means I was able to send word in advance on the previous day of my intention to land on Pitcairn. Three Boats from the island were at sea awaiting the arrival of the Corinthic and immediately the ship had lost way the Chief Magistrate, Mr. Richard Edgar Christian, came aboard and expressed the pleasure which he and the other residents felt at receiving the news of a visit to the island from an officer in the High Commission Service.

      4. Mr. Christian was occupied for a few minutes in transacting private business on board in connection with cargo consigned to Pitcairn. This completed, we proceeded to the shore in one of the island boats in which a somewhat primitive motor engine had been installed. I was accompanied ashore by Dr. I. G. Higgins, Medical Officer of the Corinthic, the fourth and fifth officers, and one of the passengers, a student at Wellington University. Sir Cecil Rodwell in his report^* has aptly depicted the element of risk, not unaccompanied by humour, which attends the descent of persons unaccustomed to the use of a rope ladder down the side of a liner into a small boat on a heaving sea. The Corinthic was lying about a mile from the shore and during the passage to the island we were also drenched to the skin by spray from waves beating against the sides of the boat.

      5. On landing we were faced by a stiff climb of 200 to 300 feet following a path which had for the most part been carved out of the face of the cliff. On reaching the top we were met by a gathering of the residents, who gave us a hearty welcome.

      6. From there we proceeded first to the house of an old resident of 72 years of age — Mr. McCoy, who had asked for the services of the ship's Medical Officer. We found the old gentleman in a low condition, suffering, I understand, from dropsy. Leaving the Doctor to attend to him, I paid a visit of inspection to the island school which was close at hand. Unfortunately, as it was afternoon the children were not in attendance, but from exercise books found on the desks, the work done in the school appeared to be of a very elementary standard. A visit was then paid to the homes of several Of the leading families where we were hospitably received and invited to partake of various fruits. Having expressed a desire to see the gardens belonging to the settlement, we were then taken for this purpose to the top of the valley in which Adamstown is situated. This involved a stiff climb of some 300 feet. On returning to the settlement I accompanied Mr. Christian to his home in order to have a brief discussion with him on island affairs. On the way I learned that lunch had been prepared for us in Mr. Young's house, but, as I had taken the precaution to have lunch on board before coming ashore, I was unwilling in the circumstances to curtail the short time available for inspection of the island. However, the other members of the party were glad of the opportunity and thoroughly enjoyed the meal, which they said was well cooked and prepared.

      7. I attach the list,^* handed to me by Mr. Christian, of the matters which he brought up for discussion at our interview. I also attach a summary of the advice ^* which I tendered to him thereon.

      8. Leaving Mr. Christian's house, we proceeded to the court-house, which in conjunction with the church had been erected on a small area of level land more or less in the centre of the settlement. This area was the only level land I saw on Pitcairn. On our arrival, the church bell was rung as a signal to the residents to assemble at the court-house, where I desired to address them. While waiting I took the opportunity to visit the church. This is a remarkable structure of two storeys connected by an internal staircase. Both storeys are fitted up as churches, the top one being rather more elaborate than the lower in regard to decorations. I was informed that the upper building is used for service on the Sabbath (all the islanders are adherents of the Seventh Day Adventist Mission) while the other is utilized for daily services throughout the week.

      9. When the people had assembled on the square I invited Dr. Higgins to make a brief examination of the younger children, who were soon lined up for this purpose, with the obvious approval of

their parents. I attach a report^* which Dr. Higgins has been good enough to prepare for annexure to this report. I am much obliged to him for his assistance in the matter.

      10. Although a number of the islanders had remained on board the Corinthic to dispose of their fruit and curios, which provide the only source of revenue open to the island, the court-house was packed to overflowing. I addressed them for about fifteen minutes during which I received a most attentive hearing.

      11. After returning thanks for the sincere welcome and hospitality that had been extended to us on the island, I congratulated them on their sentiments of loyalty to the Throne and on the proud position which they held as members of the British Empire. I then endeavoured to emphasize the need for co-operation in their communal life and for unstinted loyalty to the community in view of the unique circumstances in which they lived. I pointed out that trouble and discomfort must inevitably ensue to themselves if dissension and strife crept into the life of the community. That, living as they did in an isolated community, they must stand together for the common good or chaos would result. I complimented them on the signs of progress which were evident on the island in such matters as the erection of improved houses, the acquisition of a wireless set and motor-engine, etc., and I stated that I felt sure that this progress would continue and advance if all worked together for the community and not merely for self. In conclusion I informed them that I was there to listen to any representations which they desired to bring forward and that it would be my duty to place their views before the High Commissioner in Fiji.

      12. Mr. Christian then addressed the meeting briefly. He invited persons having any complaints against his administration to make them at the meeting so that they might be inquired into in my presence. However, there was no response from the audience. After a pause, one of the older residents stood up and expressed regret that my address had not been heard by all the men of the island. This terminated the proceedings.

      13. It was now half-past three, and it was considered advisable to return to the ship, as the Captain had expressed a wish to leave Pitcairn at 4 o'clock if possible.

      14. After much shaking of hands and many requests to pay them a second visit, we descended to the beach where our boat was waiting for us at the landing-stage. Unfortunately, after a preliminary wheeze, the engine refused to budge despite all efforts on the part of its numerous engineers. After a long delay, which we occupied in watching the amusing antics of several small urchins, who were riding the waves on primitive surf-boards, the engine consented to

function and we arrived safely on board shortly after quarter-past four.

      15. A further description of the island of Pitcairn appears unnecessary in view of the particulars furnished by Sir Cecil Rodwell in his report and also the information contained in numerous publications. Adamstown, the name given to the only settlement on the island, is situated on a broad, sloping valley between two high ridges of rock. No doubt owing to the steepness of the land, no attempt has been made to lay out the settlement in any regular order or with any semblance of streets. The houses are dotted about wherever there is sufficient flat land for a foundation to be laid. Several of the houses have recently been extended in size and in one instance I observed that a two-storey house was in course of erection. The interior of the houses I entered were neat and tidy, though the complete absence of paint gives them a somewhat dingy appearance. They contain sufficient furniture for the simple needs of the islanders. In one or two houses I saw harmoniums or cottage organs prominently displayed.

      17. The school-house was a long building of wood with an iron roof, divided into three class-rooms. On mentioning that the centre room appeared to be rather dark and that more light was desirable in order to prevent the possibility of eyestrain on the part of the pupils, I was glad to be informed that plans were already in hand to raise the building several feet, in order to increase the height of the ceiling and to enable additional windows to be inserted with a view to providing more light in the school.

      18. The system of agriculture followed on Pitcairn seems to have been wisely adopted and suitable to local conditions. Small clearings only are made in the bush and the fringe of surrounding vegetation prevents soil erosion which might otherwise be serious in view of the heavy rainfall and the sloping nature of the land. The gardens I visited contained maize, sweet potatoes, and beans of the runner variety. The soil was a light chocolate loam and said to be of immense depth. This I found to be true on inspecting several of the sanitary pits attached to the houses in the settlement, which were from 12 to 20 feet in depth without rock being reached. I may digress for a moment to remark that these latrines were quite sanitary and clean, with good houses and well boxed. I suggested that the seats should be fitted with lids in order to prevent the breeding of flies. I was informed, however, that flies are not at anytime a pest on the island. Surrounding the gardens in the bush and bordering the tracks through the settlement I saw growing bananas, water melons, all varieties of citrus fruits (the oranges were the best I have ever seen and tasted), coconuts, and avocado pears, the latter in abundance. Lantana, which was said to have been introduced for the sake of its flowers, was unfortunately common but was not regarded as a curse.

      19. In appearance, the islanders resemble the usual type of Polynesian half-caste to be seen throughout Polynesia. They appeared to me to be of good physique, the majority with bright intelligent faces, but here and there were to be noticed some with the dull bucolic type of countenance usually associated with out-of- the-way villages in isolated districts. On the day of my visit the number of the island population was said to be 199 souls, being 102 males and 96 females. There seemed, however, to be many more small boys than girls visible in the settlement. I noticed no obvious signs of degeneracy, but the bad condition of their teeth was remarkable. Many appeared to have all their front teeth missing at quite an early age. This I attribute to be mainly due to an absence of lime on the island. At the present time there is staying on Pitcairn a Mr. Cooze with his family, who is a dentist by profession and in some way connected with the Seventh Day Adventist Mission. At the invitation of the residents, he has been granted permission by the High Commissioner to reside on the island for a period to practice his profession. I understand also that to some extent he is assisting in mission work. I could see no trace of lime on the island and, if this is correct, it may perhaps account for the poor condition of the coconut trees, which. closely resemble those affected by the Levuana moth in Fiji. The trees also bear poor heads of nuts which is, I understand, an indication of uncongenial environment.

      20. With regard to the administration of the island, I am inclined to an opinion that the days when patriarchal rule was sufficient are fast corning to an end. This is not surprising. Communication with the outside world is growing, particularly in recent years now that the opening of the Panama Canal has placed Pitcairn on the line of the direct route to New Zealand. Last year fifty vessels called at Pitcairn or an average of nearly one a week. The entry of new ideas and increasing opportunity for trading must sooner or later tend to promote individualism amongst the islanders. My experience in the Pacific has been that money earned is the one thing which natives are unwilling to regard as communal property. Under the influence of increased prosperity the islanders appear to be losing their reputed simple mode of life and possibly are not so ready as formerly to submit to restrictions imposed by an administration which, without the support of island opinion, is unable to enforce its decisions.

      21. At our interview the Chief Magistrate complained bitterly that he was finding it more and more difficult to get his instructions obeyed, that interest in the election of officers for the various posts was waning and that immorality and promiscuous living was becoming more common and was being disregarded by island opinion, which was not the case a few years ago. In conversation with several persons before leaving New Zealand I was informed that the islanders were becoming spoilt by intercourse with tourists on the various ships, and that they had seen instances of discourtesy on their part.

As regards the latter, I certainly saw no signs of impertinence or the customary importunity of curio vendors in other countries — in fact I was impressed by the courteous manner in which they went about their business on board the Corinthic. I regret, however, that there is little doubt that the idealistic communism of previous days is disappearing and that individualistic tendencies are on the increase.

      22. I am unable to suggest any means whereby this tendency may be checked or prevented. It appears to be inevitable and inseparable from the changed conditions. To some extent the residents will have to work out their own destiny. I should like to suggest, however, that it would be of great assistance to the administration if more frequent visits could be paid to Pitcairn by His Majesty's ships. A call, say once every two years, by one of the sloops attached to the New Zealand Station, when despatched on the Eastern cruise, would not entail any very material deviation from the present route followed. It would certainly strengthen the hand of the Chief Magistrate in dealing with any turbulent member of the comnaunity, should the occasion arise.

      23. In this connexion I should also like to suggest that the opportunity might be taken of the visit of one of His, Majesty's ships to endeavour to recruit several of the likely looking lads to be seen on Pitcairn for service in the Navy ; the training they would receive in the Navy would be of benefit, to the lads and also to the community when they returned home.

      24. An opportunity would also be afforded, by a visit of one of the sloops, to send to Pitcairn a Senior Officer of the High Commission Service, to reside on the island for a period of two or three weeks for the purpose of studying local conditions thoroughly, which it is, of course, impossible to do during a brief stay on the island of a few hours. His investigations would enable him to advise the High Commissioner as to whether any change or amendment of the existing constitution was desirable to meet the changed conditions on the island. After completing his work the officer could return to Fiji by one of the frequent vessels calling at Pitcairn en route to New Zealand.

      25. Ordinarily there appears to be little sickness on the island. In addition to old Mr. McCoy, whom I have mentioned earlier, the only other case of ill-health at the time of our visit was an elderly woman suffering from varicose ulceration of the legs. The islanders do not hesitate to requisition for the services of the medical officers of passing or visiting ships. This medical attention is willingly and freely given. Stocks of medicine and surgical appliances are also not infrequently supplied by ships to the islanders for future needs. It is fitting that due recognition should be given to the various shipping companies concerned for their generosity to the island in this respect and also on account of the gifts of foodstuffs and other necessaries, to which Sir Cecil Rodwe11 has referred in his report.

      26. A Post Office has been established on the island in the last two years, and letters are no longer franked from Pitcairn as was formerly the case. By arrangement between the High Commissioner and the New Zealand Government the Post Office is a sub-agency of the New Zealand Postal Department, which pays a salary of £10 a year to the islander performing the duties of Postmaster. In point of fact, the amount of this salary exceeds the annual value of the stamps used on the island but the arrangement has, I understand, put a stop to the abuses to which the previous concession was liable at the hands of the crews and passengers of visiting ships.

      27. I venture to enclose the following in my report, in case it may be of interest to ornithology. Noticing the number of fowls on the island, which, incidentally, I may remark, are undersized and inbred, requiring new blood, I inquired whether they were liable to attack from any vermin on Pitcairn. I was informed that about two years ago a pair of large hawks made their appearance on Pitcairn and played such havoc with the chickens that immediate steps were taken by the islanders to shoot them. This is the only instance of hawks having been seen on Pitcairn and it is not clear from where they could have come.

      28. In conclusion I desire to record my sincere thanks to Captain Freeman of the S.S. Corinthic for the facilities afforded me to visit Pitcairn. He was most willing and ready to assist me in any way possible. I desire to request that a letter of thanks may also be sent to the Head Office of the Shaw, Savill and Albion Company, Limited, for their courtesy in allowing the S.S. Corinthic to remain at Pitcairn for several hours beyond the usual period of stay to enable me to make the visit ashore. When it is remembered that the demurrage on the Corinthic is in the vicinity of £60 an hour, it will be appreciated that the concession was of considerable value from the financial aspect. I trust that my visit has accomplished some good in strengthening the connection between Pitcairn and the Western Pacific High Commission and also that the advice I was able to tender may prove of benefit to the local administration. As a slight recognition of the hospitality accorded me I gave a donation to the Church funds before leaving the island.

      29. I enclose a few snapshots^* of Pitcairn for which I am indebted to the Purser of the Corinthic. Many were taken by him on a previous visit to the island, when he accompanied the Medical Officer ashore to attend an urgent case.

   His Excellency,
      The High Commissioner for the
                  Western Pacific.

      Sir Henry Guy Pilling, KCMG (1886 – 1953) was a British colonial administrator. He joined the Colonial Service as a cadet in 1907 in Fiji. In 1921, he became Assistant Colonial Secretary of Fiji. He was appointed Secretary to the Western Pacific High Commission in 1926. In 1929, he was appointed Assistant to the High Commissioner for the Western Pacific, before being appointed Colonial Secretary of British Honduras the same year. In 1934, he was transferred to Kenya as Colonial Secretary. He was Governor of St Helena from 1938 to 1941 and the British Resident in Zanzibar from 1941 to 1946. In retirement, he served as Speaker of the East Africa Central Legislative Assembly from 1949 until his death. [Wikipedia]

Great Britain. Colonial Office.
      Report on a Visit to Pitcairn Island by H.G. Pilling, Assistant to the High Commissioner for the Western Pacific.
London: His Majesty's Stationery Office, 1930.
(Colonial no. 53)
also:
Document no. 169. December 1929. "Report on a Visit to Pitcairn Island, H.G. Pilling". Pages 2019 to 2026.

Pitcairn's Island  Notes  Source  Whalesite