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2 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

No. 93.

REPORT
ON A
VISIT TO PITCAIRN ISLAND
BY
SIR CECIL RODWELL, K.C.M.G.,
High Commissioner for the Western Pacific.

S.S. "Ionic,"           
June 25th, 1921.     

Sir,

      I have the honour to report that on the 14th instant, on my way from New Zealand to England, via the Panama Canal, I visited Pitcairn Island, the White Star liner "Ionic" (Commander A. H. Summers) having been diverted for the purpose at the request of the Colonial Office.

      2. Of late frequent calls have been made at Pitcairn by vessels on the outward voyage to New Zealand, which take a more northerly course than those homeward bound in order to avoid the westerly winds which prevail further south. The islanders are therefore less out of the world than they were a few years ago. The outward course lies 10 miles south of Pitcairn, and a call means a diversion of 4 miles only. The distances are as follows: —

Miles.
Panama (Balboa) to Pitcairn 3,520
Pitcairn to Wellington 3,006
-----
6,526
-----
Panama to Wellington direct 6,522
Wellington to Panama
    (following the Great Circle) 6,486

so that even for homeward-bound ships a diversion of 40 miles only is involved, although it may mean the loss of favourable winds. Pitcairn is situated in latitude 25.4 S. and longitude 130.5 W. (not E. as stated in several publications relating to the Pacific). It is about a mile and a half long and a mile wide, and is rhomboidal in shape. Its highest eminence is 1,000 ft. above sea-level. It possesses all the climatic advantages of Fiji without the drawbacks of extreme heat and excessive rainfall. There are no pests or endemic diseases. Hurricanes have been experienced but are rare. The soil is fertile and the slopes are pleasantly wooded.

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 3

      On the voyage from Wellington the "Ionic" encountered strong head winds and a heavy swell, and doubt was felt as to the possibility of landing at Pitcairn. The main landing place is in Bounty Bay on the north-east side of the island The chart showed an alternative landing on the north-west side (a small cove where, as I was informed later, the mutineers first landed from the "Bounty"), but no information was available regarding access to the interior. It had not been possible to give any notice of my coming. We arrived off the southernmost point of the island at 9 a.m. A boat put off from the shore and Mr. E. McCoy, one of the leading islanders, came on board. From him we ascertained that the main landing place was, as we had anticipated, out of the question and that the only course was to attempt the alternative landing on the north-west side. To this spot accordingly the "Ionic" steamed, taking the boat in tow, and anchored about half a mile from the shore. Soon after we had come to anchor a second boat came off, having sailed round from the other side of the island_ The crew brought bad news. A third boat, while being hauled ashore at the main landing, had been lifted by a breaker and had crushed three men against the rocks. One was reported to be dead and the others dying. Mr. McCoy, who showed great distress, immediately went ashore taking with him Dr. H. W. Mann, Surgeon of the "Ionic" and Drs. Colquhoun and Nyulasy, two of the passengers, all of whom promptly volunteered their help.

      4. This lamentable incident caused some delay and it was midday before I landed with my party, among whom were Lady Rodwell, Sir Ralph Williams (formerly Governor of Newfoundland), Mr_ G. A. Fisher (British Consul at Tahiti, on his way home on leave), and Mr. and Mrs. James Findlay (Mr. Findlay is the New Zealand representative of the Shaw Savill and Albion Company, Limited). The High Commission flag, which had been flown from the fore-truck of the "Ionic" as we approached, was hoisted in the bow of the boat one of those belonging to the islanders, who rowed us ashore and brought us back. An eight-foot swell was running, the process of transference from ship to boat was long and hazardous, especially for the ladies. The landing was almost equally difficult. I had intended to land in uniform but, on learning that there would be a long walk to the village, changed my mind fortunately, as it turned out, for a breaker overtook me as I jumped ashore and I stepped into two feet of water. The path to the village is no more than a goat-track and lies along a ridge some 500 ft. above the shore, and to reach it we had to scramble up the face of the cliffs from the top of which there is a further laborious ascent through the bush. The climb proved too arduous for some of the older members of the party, who reluctantly turned back. The rest, encouraged and occasionally hauled by agile islanders, straggled up to the summit, whence a steep descent led to the

4 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

village. On our way down we were met by several of the womenfolk, who greeted us with Arcadian simplicity and showed much pleasure and interest on being introduced to my wife. As far as we could gather this was the first visit made to the island by an English lady.

      5. It was now 2 o'clock and, as we had to be back on board by 5 p.m., we could only spare an hour at the village. This is situated on the slopes of the hill over which we had come, overlooking the sea and facing north-east, and consists of small, scattered wooden cottages, simply but cosily furnished, with neatly kept gardens in which grow roses and other English flowers. In the middle of the village is the Church (the islanders are Seventh Day Adventists and deeply religious), the School, and the Court-house where justice and the affairs of government are administered.

      6. I had a talk on local affairs, which was continued during the walk back to the beach, with Mr. Fred Christian, the Chief Magistrate, and Mr. Edgar Christian, the Secretary to the Government. According to their view some modification is advisable in the system of administration. Under the existing arrangement there is, besides the Chief Magistrate and two Assessors, an "Internal Committee" of three with a Government Secretary. It is not easy to find seven men, out of a population of 170 odd, capable of dealing with Government business and able to devote the necessary time to it. The present method of selection, which is by open vote annually, is not considered satisfactory. It is suggested, and this is apparently the general opinion among the islanders, that smoother and more efficient working would be achieved by placing all authority in the hands of not more than three officials, the principal of whom would be the Chief Magistrate. As things are, the broth is liable to be spoilt by a superfluity of cooks. If any change is made, and I certainly think that the existing machinery is over-elaborate, I suggest the issue of a Regulation by the High Commissioner placing the constitution upon a more definite basis than that afforded by the "Local Laws."

      7. Pitcairn presents few internal administrative problems, and those which exist are not serious. One of the most difficult is that arising out of illegitimate births. In many cases it is impossible to establish the paternity, and the child becomes a charge on the community. Usually, however, arrangements can be made for adOption. The chief concern of the islanders, at the moment, is the prolonged absence of a party of young men — there are fifteen of them, I understand — who went to Tahiti on business connected with a certain ship. From Tahiti they went to New Zealand, apparently with the intention of returning to Pitcairn from there, but they have now gone back to Tahiti where they are still stranded. Some disappointment was expressed that I

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 5

did not bring them with me, but when I passed through New Zealand they had already left and I was unaware of their Odyssey. The doctors who accompanied me recommend that these men should be medically examined before they return, in case of any infection contracted during their sojourn abroad.

      8. There is no postal system_ The best address for letters and parcels from the United Kingdom is, c/o the Postmaster, Cristobal, Panama Canal Zone — not via Tahiti. The islanders hand their letters, etc., to passing ships, often leaving it to the officers or passengers to pay the postage. There is no reason, I think, why a post-office should not be established on the island or even why an issue of stamps should not be authorised. I instructed the Chief Magistrate to address official correspondence direct to the High Commissioner at Suva in future, instead of through the Consul at Tahiti, but to send copies to the latter. In this connexion I recommend that for the present the Consul should continue to hold the appointment of Deputy Commissioner. Although communication between Tahiti and Pitcairn is irregular and infrequent, circumstances might arise in which a visit of inspection was necessary and could be more conveniently made from Tahiti than front Fiji.

      9. The islanders are anxious to secure a definite arrangement for the export of their arrowroot. At present they produce about four tons per annum, but with an assured market it is probable that the output would be largely increased. The export of oranges and bananas is capable of development. At present it is precarious owing to the uncertainty as to the arrival of steamers. Sometimes the fruit is not ready. At other times a steamer is expected and the fruit is packed and taken to the beach ready for shipment, but the steamer passes without calling_ A complete wireless installation would be out of the question now, owing to the cost, but it might be feasible later. Meanwhile a receiving apparatus would be a great boon, as affording ships a means of announcing a day or two in advance their intention to call. In the hope of obtaining one, some of the islanders have learnt the Morse Code. A semaphore erected on an eminence near the main landing would enable the islanders to communicate with approaching vessels without the necessity of sending off a boat on what is often a useless and at times a dangerous What, however, is really required, if this small community is to make any industrial progress, is the establishment on the island of a Government Agent who would communicate with shipping companies and merchants in the United Kingdom and New Zealand. The islanders are by no means illiterate, but they are slow thinkers and business correspondence presents difficulties to them. Possibly a retired naval officer could be found who would be willing to undertake the duty. I am prepared to make inquiries with a view to a temporary arrangement, by way of experiment, which would involve little or no expense to the Imperial Government.

6 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

      10. Hoping that I should have three or four hours at the village, I had intended to address a meeting of the inhabitants at the Court-house, and to distribute the gifts which I had collected through the kindness of the ship's passengers and friends in New Zealand. Time, however, would not allow; and I had to set out on my return journey, having handed over the gifts to the Chief Magistrate. The doctors had done everything possible for the victims of the morning's accident. Two had died and it was doubtful if the third would recover. One of the dead was an old inhabitant, named Christian. The other was Mr. W. F. Young, the local Minister and head school-teacher. I expressed my sympathy with the relatives and, at the request of his family, viewed the body of Mr. Young at his house, whither he had been carried unconscious but still alive. His loss will be severely felt, though I ascertained that there is an assistant teacher who will be able to carry on the school.

      11. The luncheon-basket from the ship had gone astray and there was no time for refreshment at the village, but we appeased our hunger and thirst with oranges and bananas plucked from the trees as we went and with water from the small aqueduct, constructed of split bamboos on trestles, which conveys water to the village from a neighbouring spring. Some of us returned by the path by which we had come. I, with the remainder, took a longer but less precipitous route. It was a weary and bedraggled, but by no means dispirited, party that re-assembled at the landing- place. Of the four and a half hours ashore the ascent had taken two and the return journey one and a half. We were seen off from the beach by a small crowd of islanders, including a number of women and girls who embraced the ladies of the party and pressed upon them small gifts of curios. The hardest part of the journey was yet to come. It was growing dusk and the swell was increasing. At intervals the surf broke over the rocks, flooding the cove and rendering the boat almost unmanageable. We were too many for one boat-load so that two journeys had to be made. Re-embarkation from boat to ship was even more difficult than the reverse process had been. Each in turn had to stand in the stern of the boat till the swell raised it to the level of the accommodation ladder and then jump for it. Great care had to be taken to prevent the boat from being jammed under the ladder. One of the ladies missed her footing and narrowly escaped an accident. It was dark by. the time all were safely on board. As we weighed anchor the islanders lay alongside in their boat singing hymns.

      12. I have not at hand the Blue-books containing the reports on Pitcairn made in 1898 by Rear-Admiral H. B. Palliser and by Mr. Hunter, who visited the island on the instructions, I believe, of the High Commissioner. According, however, to Mr. Scholefield ("The Pacific, its Past and Future") the former reported

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 7

that the islanders were gravely deteriorating owing to intermarriage and over-population, that they had developed vices and that there was an absence of discipline and incentive to work and of moral fibre. Mr. Hunter, according to the same authority, not only confirmed this view but considered that there was no future at all for the Pitcairners but hopeless imbecility. These opinions were based, no doubt, upon careful investigation and not, as mine necessarily are, upon a visit of a few hours. But it might be expected that the signs of degeneracy and imbecility which were observed 23 years ago would be even more noticeable now; and certainly I saw none. Possibly former observers have been prejudiced by the theory that inter-marriage over a period of years inevitably results in degeneration. This, I believe, is by no means the case where the original stock is sound; and in this instance it seems reasonable to suppose not only that the original stock was hardy and robust but that it was strengthened and adapted to its environment by the admixture of Tahitian blood. While it would be unsafe to say that the morals of the islanders are as good as those prevailing in an English agricultural village of to-day, or even of a quarter of a century ago, it would.be unfair to picture them as the morals of the farm-yard. Equally unjust is the term "beggars of the Pacific," which I have more than once heard applied to the people of Pitcairn. Where charity is concerned they are self-respecting and even sensitive. Their chief ambition is to find opportunities of earning a little money with which to buy essential commodities. And, considering their limited means and the scarcity of cash on the island, they are generous contributors to charity themselves: in recent months they have sent several small contributions to various objects, including the Chinese Famine Fund, and I have with me a sum of £11 for the "Save the Children" Fund, which they asked me to convey.

      13. As to the question of population, I have seen it stated that the reason of the migration to Norfolk Island in 1856, was that the number of the inhabitants, which was then 192, had become too large for Pitcairn. Only 40 returned in 1859. In 1879, the population was 140, and in last year's returns it is shown as 169 – 88 males and 81 females. Provided that the water-supply is assured, as it appears to be, I can see no ground for anxiety on the score of over-population. Indeed, I gathered that the islanders would welcome the immigration of a few agricultural families who would introduce fresh blood and improved methods of cultivation.

      14. In conclusion I beg leave to record my obligations to the Shaw Savill and Albion Company for their courtesy in diverting the "Ionic"; to Mr. J. Findlay, their representative, for his assistance in various matters and especially in supplying the islanders from the ship, free of charge, with a quantity of flour, sugar and other

8 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

provisions of which they were in need; to Captain Summers for the great trouble which he took to ensure a safe landing under difficult conditions, as well as to the ship's officers, one of whom — Mr. W. T. Poustie — escorted me ashore; and to Dr. Mann, Dr. Colquhoun and Dr. Nyulasy, for the medical aid which they rendered. At my request Dr. Mann and Dr. Colquhoun are kindly furnishing some observations* on Pitcairn from the medical and anthropological point of view, and Captain. Summers some notes on anchorages, landing places, etc. I will submit these under separate cover.

I have &c.,                                               
C. H. RODWELL,                 
High Commissioner for the Western Pacific.


The Right Honourable WINSTON S. CHURCHILL, M.P.,
Secretary of State for the Colonies.


      * Annexures I and II.
      Annexure III.

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 9

ANNEXURE I.



R.M.S. "Ionic" at Sea,           
29th June, 1921.     

Sir,<

      In compliance with Your Excellency's request, I beg to submit the following statement as my Medical Report on the Island and Islanders of Pitcairn. When Your Excellency did me the honour to ask for this Report at my hands, I ventured to suggest the name of Dr. Colquhoun, of Dunedin, in collaboration, and the notes on the Island of Pitcairn and its inhabitants written by Dr. Colquhoun and submitted along with this form ample justification, at once, of my request and of Your Excellency's consent thereto. It was, indeed, a fortunate circumstance that in the peculiarly unhappy conditions existing during our visit it was possible to avail oneself of the ripe experience and wide knowledge of affairs possessed by Dr. Colquhoun, who gave unstintedly of his physical and mental energy, during a period of quite unusual strain. For some days previous to our arrival at Pitcairn, we had experienced rough weather with high seas running, and on arrival there in the early forenoon of 14th June, it was found to be impossible to lie off the usual anchorage at Bounty Bay, and so we proceeded to the Western side of the Island and lay off there in comparatively smooth water. Boats manned by Islanders came off to the ship and brought us news of a very grave disaster to a boat's crew, involving the death of one man and very serious injury to two others, and requesting immediate medical assistance. A supply of likely medical and surgical stores was taken, and as soon as possible we embarked and made for the shore. Another saloon passenger, Dr. Nyulasy, of Melbourne, very kindly volunteered to accompany us on our errand, and came with us on the first available boat. His professional help was of great value to us and to the unfortunate sufferers. He shared most cheerfully in the hardships of the day, and his professional skill and support were greatly appreciated by us both, and as freely tendered by him.

      We landed on a rocky shelf in a small cove, where the surf surged and raged continuously, and made disembarkation a somewhat trying and dangerous experience. On landing, each of us had a guide appointed to direct and help us along what proved to be a most arduous and risky climb right from the water's edge up an almost precipitous slope to a knife edge rocky ridge where, but for the constant care of our guide, disaster was almost certain.

10 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

      Thanks to the help of the particular guide assigned to me, I was enabled to reach the settlement considerably ahead of my confreres. The northern rocky ridge up which we toiled for about 1,000 feet was topped by a narrow "divide," and the contrast between the arid sun-scorched rock on the north and the dazzling tropic beauty on the southern and eastern sides was a rare and arresting experience, and, to the writer, quite unforgettable. On arrival at Adamstown, as the settlement is named, my guide took me, at once, to the house where the dead man lay, and there we received the sad intelligence of the death of a second man. Both had been terribly crushed, and death must have been a happy release from an agony of pain in each case. The nature of the accident was more fully explained to us. Two boats had been launched in face of a very high sea and heavy swell, and so far successfully. The third boat was manned and launched, and being caught by an unusually heavy breaker, had been dashed against the rocks and stove in, and in doing so crushed with overwhelming force the hapless men, one of whom was killed outright, and the other two so gravely injured that one died before our arrival.

      I saw, and very cursorily examined, the dead bodies, which had already been dressed for burial.

      And thus, and with startling suddenness, death and disaster came to these people just as they were preparing to receive their High Commissioner. And it was touching in the extreme to observe how the hearts and minds of these gentle and courteous and warm-hearted folk were torn between the wish to reverence their dead and their desire to show their loyalty and devotion to the Flag and all that it represents.

      Leaving the houses where the dead men lay, I was conducted to the home of the surviving injured man, who was lying in bed pallid with pain and suffering badly from shock. Examination revealed extensive abrasions over the abdomen and pelvis, and acute pain was complained of across the lower segment of the abdomen and the bladder. There was difficulty in micturition and at first it was feared that there had been rupture of the urethra. Fortunately this turned out to be an error, and before we left the patient had been able to pass water clear and free from blood. Further examination of the right thigh discovered a fracture of the bone at its upper third, and there were indications that the whole pelvic girdle had been badly crushed. There was no injury to the spine, and the voluntary movements and reflexes of the lower limbs were quite normal, though the skin surface felt cold. Hot-water bottles and fomentations were applied, and with evident relief and satisfaction. Drs. Colquhoun and Nyulasy having arrived, we held a consultation as to what proper course was to be pursued. The Reporter suggested that the patient be removed to the ship for care and treatment. This

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 11

suggestion was regarded by the other doctors as impossible of execution, in view of the rough weather prevailing, the distance, roads to be travelled and the indifferent transport in an injury so severe. In this decision the Reporter reluctantly acquiesced. The man was made as comfortable as possible, written instructions left with his relatives, and a further supply of comforts supplied from the ship's surgery, as the result of our personal inquiry.

      We then left on our return journey, as the day was fast passing and we had a long and a hard road to travel.

      After an exciting and venturesome journey we arrived back at our ship, and despatched to the case of our patient a hot water bottle, an enema syringe, two soft catheters and a tube of morphia tablets, so that, as far as may be, ease might be afforded and pain relieved. Apart from this, a good supply of lint, gauze tissue, bandages, and splinting was left in the house.

      General Remarks. — It is worthy of mention that apart from this unhappy and unexpected disaster there was no sickness on the Island, and no one requiring medical care. I made enquiry regarding the incidence here of the recent pandemic of influenza, and was told that the disease did come to Pitcairn, and caused five deaths quite a small mortality in view of the enormous toll taken of other native communities.

      While having many positive qualities, such as clear fresh air, sunshine, fruit in abundance all the year round, yet in other respects Pitcairn may be termed a land of negatives no house rent, rates or taxes, no drink, almost no tobacco, no money, no poverty, no riches, no disease, no toil, no city smoke, and, though emphatically an inbred race, no evidence of degeneracy. I saw one fair-haired blue-eyed boy, but the bulk of the people are Polynesian in type, oval faces, olive complexion, lithe, active, and having easy springy movements, and a fine erect carriage. I specially add that no boots of any sort are worn by any of the Islanders, and from their earliest days they go barefooted, and so can firmly and confidently walk over bare rocky slopes, where not merely the great toe, but all the toes seem to have acquired a prehensile power, the result of this early education in hill climbing. We passed along quite half a mile of knife-edged rock on our upward journey to Adamstown, and there was a rough, stubby grass on the slope, and to this I was tempted to take a foothold, but my guide insisted on my keeping to the rock always, and to this advice I owe my safety. Surnames are few and reminiscent of the men of the "Bounty" in 1789. Adams, Young, Christian, McCoy, Warren are those only with whom I came into contact. The men and the young people as a rule have no head covering, but the women wear hats made by themselves from the leaf of the Pandanus, which, I am told, are as near as need be a replica of the man-of-war's man headgear of former days, and have probably come down as such from the early inhabitants

12 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

      The water supply is got from springs in the hillside, and is abundant and apparently good. The water is carried in a small pipe and also in open hollowed-out three trunks, and so is well aerated.

      I made enquiry as to sanitation, and was informed that this was fairly well carried out on a modified latrine system, well excavated trenches and well covered with earth as required. Fruit is abundant to lavishness. Oranges, limes, lemons, bananas, bread-fruit, pawpaws, guavas, loquats, mangoes are everywhere. Coconuts flourish all over, and it was pleasant to see and to smell English roses in the gardens. Two impressions remain with me, one was the radiant beauty of the prospect from the "Divide," already referred to; the other was the quiet fortitude exhibited by those people under such crushing misfortune as the sudden loss of two breadwinners out of a small community of 176 souls. As one of them said to me "This morning we were 176; now we are 174."

      They love their Island home fervently, and have no desire to leave it, knowing full well how happy and care-free they are.

      And to the distracted, upheaved world of to-day, with its questionings, its strifes, feuds, rivalries, its bitterness and greed, there may be an example and a vision in this primitively communal life, where all is for each and each for all, and all so aptly compassed by the blue Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Peace. I desire to make a suggestion to your Excellency arising out of our experience, and in view of similar future events. I suggest that one or two, and preferably two, native women of mature age and with the necessary natural disposition and intelligence be selected for training in hospital nursing and maternity work and sent to a recognised hospital in Australasia or England, and that a supply of First Aid appliances be despatched to, and maintained for, the use of the people of the Island.

I have, etc.,                       
H. W. MANN, M.B.Ed.,           
Surgeon R.M.S. "Ionic."     

    To His Excellency,
            The High Commissioner,
                        Western Pacific.

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 13

ANNEXURE II.




      The following notes make no claim to scientific accuracy. The circumstances attending our visit made it impossible to make exact observations or take measurements as we wished to do. But as most of the inhabitants of the island came under our notice we have recorded our impressions as they arose.

      Race. — The Pitcairn Islanders are Euro-polynesian in origin, the Polynesian type prevailing — they are not as dark in colour as the Friendly Islanders or pure Maoris, nor as light coloured, with a few exceptions, as northern Europeans many of them would pass easily for southern Europeans — Italian, Spanish, etc. Their features are regular and, especially among the young women, pleasant and refined looking. One of our party remarked on the "Madonna" appearance of some of these — the oval face, clear light brown in colour, calm and serious at rest, certainly suggested as he said a Raphael Madonna.

      Hair was mostly dark and straight. One young man of 18 or 20, whose father, mother and sister were of the light Euro-polynesian type, had an abundant supply black frizzy hair and a dark complexion with prominent lips suggesting a throw-back to a Melanesian ancestor. Most of the children resembled their parents but we saw several in whom the European type was most marked — two, about 8 or 9 years of age, had fair hair and bluish gray eyes. Generally the eyes were dark brown, rarely gray. All were longheaded (dolichocephalic).

      Physique and Intelligence. — Men and women were spare, muscular and active. Men 5 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. 8 in. or 9 in.; women, 5 ft. 2 in. to 5 ft. 5 in. or 6 in. As some of these led us from the boat-landing on the south-west corner of the island to Adamstown, their settlement on the north side, we were able to admire the skill and agility they showed in climbing almost perpendicular hills and passing along razor edged cliffs with a fall on each side of some hundreds of feet; the return journey served to confirm our admiration for the ease with which men, women and children negotiated a track which to us seemed only possible for mountain goats or Pitcairn Islanders.

      We were also able to judge of the abilities of the men as boatmen. We have asked the opinion of Captain Summers and some of his officers, professional sailors, on this point and they all agree that they handle their boats admirably. There was a fairly heavy sea running both at the ship and landing place and any want of skill, quickness, correct judgment or physical strength might easily have led to disaster.

14 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

      We mention this specially as some observers had said that there were signs of physical degeneration among the islanders owing to inbreeding. That is not our opinion. As far as our observation went, men, women, and children showed quickness of apprehension and intelligence. The men were interested in external affairs and asked questions about European politics — the state of Ireland, the strikes, the war between Greece and Turkey. They are satisfied with their own island; there they have no wars or strikes; we were asked for gramophone needles and records and there were especially eager requests for dresses for women — less so for the men. There is a school on the island where all the children of suitable age are instructed in English. We were shown a large two storied building of wood which is their church. They are Seventh Day Adventists and we judged from what we saw and heard that they are profoundly religious. As workmen the men have considerable skill. The boats they use — stoutly built and made for rowing and sailing in heavy weather — were built on the island. The houses of wood are also their own work — plain substantial buildings with sleeping and living rooms separate, mostly windowless and thatched with Pandanus leaf. They make neatly woven baskets, fans crudely painted, straw hats, necklaces of beads from seeds found on the island, mostly for trade purposes.

      They speak good English with the intonation of a people to whom it is not quite familiar, such as we get sometimes in races who speak another language as children or in familiar intercourse. One of the women said that some of them understand Tahitian or easily pick it up when they go to the islands. We saw few books in the houses we visited. All were plainly furnished and clean. We saw some neat gardens with roses, geraniums and other flowers flourishing well.

      Degeneration. — The so-called "Stigmata of Degeneration" were absent as far as we could see. These are normally classed as idiocy, imbecility, dwarfism, deformities such as hare lips, cleft palate, badly formed ears, teeth, etc.

      Teeth. — Many of the men and women, quite early in life, seem to have lost the upper incisor and canine teeth. We saw one man of 42 whose teeth were markedly irregular and defective. Most of the boys and girls whom we met had strong, white, regular teeth.

      Disease. — There was no evidence of active or constitutional disease — no enlarged glands or scars, no signs of tuberculosis, syphilis, goitre. We were told that they do not suffer from disease — only accidents, and our observations bear this out.

      Food. — Goats and wild fowl (originally domestic) are plentiful, and in the settlement we saw healthy-looking poultry in abundance; they get good supplies of fish in fine weather. Fruit is abundant

PITCAIRN ISLAND. 15

and of good quality — oranges, lemons, bananas, guava, coco-nuts, loquats. They grow the kumara and arrowroot and probably other vegetable products. Only two men on the island use tobacco and all are total abstainers.

      Water Supply. — Pipes of metal and palm stems convey water to the settlement from the hills. It seemed to be of good quality. The rainfall is good and most of the houses are supplied from this source.

      Population. — This was stated to be 176 — including 16 men now in Tahiti. One of the women said sadly "only 174 now," referring to the accident which occurred on the morning of our arrival, when the school teacher and the minister were killed by the upsetting of a boat. The number is small considering the healthiness of the people, the fact that early marriage is the rule, and the abundance of the food supply. We had no means of learning how the population is restricted as it evidently is, whether it is due to the infertility of inbreeding or other causes.

      The total absence of infectious diseases is no doubt due partly to the isolation of the people from sources of infection, and partly to the open air life and good food available for all, and to their general temperance.

      As communication with the outside world increases the chances of disease being introduced become greater. This primitive and unprotected people might easily suffer severely if tuberculosis, syphilis, yaws, intestinal- parasites or other diseases common in the Islands and among Europeans were introduced. We suggest that the men who are now in Tahiti should be carefully examined before their return. It is from such a source rather than from casual visitors that danger is to be feared.

D. Colquhoun.     

29th June, 1921.

16 COLONIAL REPORTS — MISCELLANEOUS.

ANNEXURE III.



S.S. "Ionic" at Sea,           
11th July, 1921.     

REPORT ON PITCAIRN.

      Anchorages. — The anchorage to the Eastward off Adamstown is good when the wind and sea are from the S.W. to N.W. through W.; then the landing place will be in smooth water. The anchorage to the N.W. is good only when wind and sea are from S.E. to E.; then the landing place is in smooth water. Having the two places to land at one or other is good, giving a range from E. through S. to N.W.

      Landing Place to the N.W. — The only time a landing could not be possible would be in heavy weather from N.W. through N. to E.; it could be made very much better than it is at present by a small breakwater run to the S.W., about 150 or 200 ft., to protect the landing place from the swell which follows round the coast in rough weather, as happened when this ship was there.

      Wireless Station. — A small station could be fitted up to let ships know which landing was the best, also in cases of sickness or accident to give them help or assistance.

      There are three streams which have their source in the mountain; either of these streams could be made to give power through a turbine to generate electricity for the station or to Morse passing ships. The station would be very useful in case of ships calling, to enable them to give the time of arrival, also requirements of fruit and vegetables, so that they would be ready on the ships' arrival. In the case of a ship being able to take fruit as freight it would be of great assistance to let the islanders know what quantity could be taken.

      Trade. — There are great possibilities of a good trade between the island and New Zealand, as they have abundance of fruit, and this would be a big source of revenue; also in case of passenger ships calling a fee of 10s. per head could be charged to allow passengers to land; this-fee would include their passage from and to the ship and would be another item to assist the islanders to maintain themselves without the further assistance of the home Government beyond the initial expense.

A. H. Summers, Commander.     

17

COLONIAL REPORTS, Etc.

      The following recent reports, etc_, relating to His Majesty's colonial Possessions have been issued, and may be obtained from the sources indicated on the title page: —

ANNUAL.
No.Colony, etc.Year.
1063St. VincentApril–December 1919
1064Nigeria1919
1065Sierra Leoneditto
1066Gold Coastditto
1067Jamaica1919-1920
1068British Guiana1919
1069Trinidad and Tobagoditto
1070British Hondurasditto
1071Hong Kongditto
1072Barbados1919-1920
1073East Africa Protectorate1918-1919
1074Leeward Islands1919-1920
1075Nyasaland1919
1076Falkland Islandsditto
1077Bermuda1920
1078Grenadaditto
1079Uganda1919-1920
1080Fiji1920
1081Gibraltarditto
1082Northern Territories of the Gold Coast1919
1083Bechuanaland1920-1921
1084St. Helena1920
1085Basutoland1920-1921
1086Ceylon1920
1087Barbados1920-1921
1088Gilbert and Ellice Islands1919-1920
1089East Africa Protectorateditto
1090Sierra Leone1920
1091Zanzibarditto
1092Cayman Islands1918-1919
1093Cyprus1920
1094St. Vincentditto
1095Bahamas1920-1921
1096Nyasaland1920
1097Weihaiweiditto
1098Nigeriaditto
1099New Hebridesditto

MISCELLANEOUS.
No.Colony, etc.Subject.
82Imperial InstituteRubber and Gutta-percha.
83Southern NigeriaMineral Survey, 1910.
84West IndiesPreservation of Ancient Monuments etc.
85Southern NigeriaMineral Survey, 1911.
86Southern NigeriaMineral Survey, 1912.
87CeylonMineral Survey.
88Imperial InstituteOil-seeds, Oils, etc.
89Southern NigeriaMineral Survey, 1913.
90St. VincentRoads and Land Settlement.
91East Africa
Protectorate
Geology and Geography of the northern part
of the Protectorate.
92Colonies – GeneralFishes of the Colonies.


Printed by H.M. Stationery Office Press, Harrow,

Notes.

      Winston S. Churchill, M.P., Secretary of State for the Colonies and recipient of this report.

      Dr. Daniel Colquhoun (1849 - 1935), M.D., M.R.C.P., M.R.C.S. of Dunedin, New Zealand

      Sir Cecil William Hunter-Rodwell GCMG (1874 – 1953) was a British colonial administrator who served as Governor of Southern Rhodesia, British Guiana, and Fiji. In 1918 Rodwell was appointed Governor of Fiji and High Commissioner for the Western Pacific, positions he held until 1924.

      H. W. Mann, M.B.Ed., Surgeon R.M.S. Ionic.

      A. H. Summers, Commander of the S.S. Ionic

Source.
Document no. 160. June 1921. "Report on a Visit to Pitcairn Island, Sir Cecil Rodwell". Pages 1989 to 2005.

This transcription was made from a documents in a collection of documents at the University of Hawai'i at Manoa Library.


Last updated by Tom Tyler, Denver, CO, USA, Dec 16, 2024.

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