Pitcairn's Island  Source  Whalesite

PITCAIRN'S ISLAND.

      In our last number (page 400), we mentioned a report on Pitcairn's Island, drawn up by Captain Worth, and presented by him at the General Meeting of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, on March 15th. We have much pleasure in laying before our readers the whole of the Captain's observations on this remarkable colony: —

      "The island of Pitcairn, at which I touched in March 1848, on my way to the Society, Navigator, Friendly, and Feegee Islands, appears to be in latitude 25° 4' south, and longitude 130° 16' west, is twelve hundred feet high, and four and a-half miles in circumference, and may be seen, in clear weather, at forty miles distance. Its coast is bold, and entirely free from detached shoals, and rises abruptly from the sea,composed of high and weather-beaten rock, upon which the surf breaks heavily at all times, preventing any access to it, save in two places; the usual landing-place being in a very confined bay, on the north-east side, called Bounty Bay, which possesses a sandy beach twenty or thirty yards in breadth, but where landing can only be effected in fine weather, and by the assistance of the islanders in their whale-boats or canoes, the bay being studded with rocks, and the rollers so high and uncertain, that it would be dangerous to attempt it in ships' boats, which are usually kept at anchor outside their influence. The other landing-place, though less difficult, is seldom used, from its being at the back or north-west side of the island, and distant from the settlement.

      "Although soundings from twenty to thirty-five fathoms may be obtained at a quarter of a mile from the shore, and in some spots at even a greater distance, anchorage should only be resorted to, as a preventive against a ship drifting on shore, in calms, &c., as, the ground being very foul, great hazard would be run of losing the anchor.

      "On landing, I was much struck with the great extent of rich and

cultivable land this island possesses, and the beautiful and romantic scenery that surrounded me, composed, as it is, of rich valleys and precipitous rocks, with a luxuriance of foliage seldom to be seen in islands so small and detached, producing not only those fruits and vegetables usually found in tropical climates, but also a great number of those of more northern and colder temperatures.

      "I was told by the islanders (who at this time number 140, viz. 71 males and 69 females, of whom 47 are under 15 years of age), that the cultivated land did not exceed 60 acres, which was found amply sufficient for their present wants; but that the island contained at least 400 acres, and was fully equal to supply a population of 1,000; the only drawback being the want of water, of which necessary article the island contains none whatever. This difficulty, which some years since appeared so formidable to the islanders as to induce them to abandon it, has now been entirely obviated by the construction of tanks, in which a quantity of rain-water is collected during the rainy season — that is, March, April and May — as much as is necessary for the remainder of the year, besides keeping up a supply in case of a drier season than ordinary occurring; these tanks will of course be enlarged as the population increases.

      "The island produces India-corn, yams, Irish and sweet potatoes, tarro, feis, plantains, limes, lemons, cocoa-nuts, oranges, melons, pineapples, papau, sugar-cane, arrow-root, and tobacco; bread-fruit is also grown, but the crop is uncertain. The stock reared comprises hogs, goats, and poultry, all of which are abundant. The fish that frequent its coast are barracoutas, albecore, mullet, giropa, snapper, and small sharks — the smaller sort being taken with nets, and the larger with hooks and line; but, from the great depth of water, the labour is so considerable, and so large a number of the fish are taken by the sharks before they can be drawn to the surface, that the employment of fishing is not followed to any great extent.

      "The trees that flourish best, and are most useful for building and other general purposes, are the miro, purau, cocoa-nut, pandanus, tapau, and a species of gardenia.

      "The prevalent winds are from west and south-east; heavy gales are of rare occurrence, though the island cannot be said to be altogether free from them, a severe one having been experienced about three years since, which proved very destructive in its effects. Lightning is not frequent. The thermometer ranges, throughout the year, from fifty-nine to eighty-five degrees; the feeling produced upon the human frame depending upon the hydrometrical state of the atmosphere.

      "The climate may be considered good, and the islanders subject to but few diseases, none of which are of a virulent nature. Influenza and catarrh are endemic during the rainy season; rheumatism and asthma prevail, perhaps, more than any other complaint.

      "The principal occupations of the inhabitants are cultivation, building, and improving their houses, (which are extremely clean, neat, and commodious,) rearing stock, fencing their plantations, making tapa,

(a sort of cloth, made from the bark of the paper-mulberry tree, and which formerly composed their clothing,) straw-hats, fancy boxes, &c., which, together with stock, fruit, and vegetables, they sell and barter for clothing, medicines, artificers' tools, agricultural implements, domestic utensils, and other useful articles, with the different whaleships that call at their island for refreshments. The number of ships prior to 1840, did not exceed two or three annually, but for the last four and a quarter years is as follows:

      "Their form of government consists of a chief magistrate and two councillors; the magistrate, being elected annually, after his election nominates one councillor, the other being nominated by the people. All cases of difficulty are tried by a jury of seven persons, the accuser and accused having the privilege of objecting to any prejudiced person being included in it. George Adams, son of John Adams, one of the mutineers of the Bounty, is the present magistrate.

      "Their form of religion is Episcopalian, their guide the Bible and Common Prayer-Book. They have church service twice in the week, and private prayers every morning and evening.

      "The children are taught reading and writing, arithmetic, geography, and history, in a spacious and airy schoolroom, which is likewise their church. Their schoolmaster (Mr. Nobbs, who also officiates as their clergyman and doctor,) conducts their instruction with much ability and decorum.

      "In stature, feature, and complexion, as also in their conversation, dress, and manner, these islanders so exactly resemble the people of one of our own villages of the better order, that I could scarcely bring myself to believe they were not such. A few of them, however, are rather darker than the generality of English-born subjects, partaking more after their half-Tahitian descent.

      "The usual recreations of the elder branches are, the hunting of wild goats, playing at ball, wrestling upon stilts, (at which they are very expert,) and dancing, for which latter purpose they are allowed to assemble one evening in each week. For the more steady and serious part of the community, they have a very tolerable library, well stocked with books of history, travels, voyages, and likewise works of fiction, by Sir Walter Scott, Marryatt, Dickens, &c., which have been from time to time collected, from gifts and purchases from the different vessels that have called at their island, and to which the officers of the Calypso liberally contributed. Flying kites, and playing in the surf on a board, are favourite amusements with the children, and also swimming and diving, in which the adults of both sexes join, being excellent swimmers.

      "Of the first generation, only six remain; four of the inhabit-

ants are foreigners (of whom three are English), viz. Susan, a Tahitian woman, who came from thence in the Bounty, and is now eighty years of age; George Nobbs, who came from Valparaiso about twenty years since, and who, as already observed, acts as their schoolmaster, surgeon, and clergyman, and who is a great acquisition; and John Buffet and John Evans, who came to the island in 1823.

      "The annual increase of births, above deaths, has never yet exceeded seven; the following being the relative numbers for the last ten years.

      "In visiting these interesting and worthy islanders, it was my gratifying task to convey to them various useful articles, which had been, with much praiseworthy benevolence and liberality, collected by the officers of the squadron, and many of the inhabitants at Valparaiso, consisting of two whale-boats, a corn-mill, medicine-chest ; agricultural and other tools; fishing, writing, and sowing-materials; cordage, nails, cooking and other domestic articles, and a quantity of clothing for both sexes, all of which proved most serviceable. Nor could anything exceed the heartfelt gratitude of these primitive, isolated, and excellent people, who, with tears in their eyes, acknowledged the benefits they continued to receive from the countrymen of their forefathers; and if sincere and grateful prayers are ever offered up for such kindnesses, they surely were on this occasion, by these virtuous and blameless islanders. They consider themselves, in every sense, subjects of Great Britain; and certain I am, that Her Majesty possesses not a more attached or loyal people, or one more devoted to her person and government. I could not but be forcibly struck at their anxious inquiries for Her Majesty's health, as their beloved Queen,' and at their earnest hope that she would continue to consider them worthy of her countenance and protection.

      "There being no harbour or anchorage at the island, nor any other requisite necessary for the re-fitting or supplying of ships, beyond the mere island produce, is, I consider, quite a blessing to its inhabitants; as these simple people thereby escape the contaminating and baleful influence which the crews of such vessels as visit them would inevitably cause, were they enabled to remain any length of time on shore. As it is, one or two boats from each ship, calling occasionally for a few hours for refreshments, have not sufficient time to work evil, even if so inclined. Indeed, so little known is crime amongst the people of Pitcairn, and so little encouragement given by them to visitors to commit themselves, that, I believe, no instance is known of any such attempt being made. On the contrary, I was told that the conduct both of the masters and crews of vessels calling at Pitcairn's Island, was most exemplary."

      Captain Sir Thomas Thomson, who touched at Pitcairn's Island seven years ago, has favoured us with the following interesting account of his visit:

      "In March 1843, when in command of H.M.S. Talbot, I visited that most interesting spot, Pitcairn's Island. I arrived off the island on a Sunday morning, and being very much pressed for time, and it being calm, I left the ship in a boat, accompanied by Mr. White, the paymaster, and after a long pull of five hours we reached Bounty Bay a little after eleven. Young Adams immediately came off in a small canoe, and directed me where to anchor the boat in safety. He then landed Mr. White and myself, and took us on shore without a wetting, through a very heavy surf.

      "He informed me that the islanders were at church, so I proceeded with him up the steep path to the little village, and entered the room in which they were all assembled. Nobbs, who was reading the service, stopped and asked me if he should proceed, which I begged him to do. He finished the prayers, and afterwards read a short lecture. I was much struck by the attention and devotion of the whole congregation, as a visit from a man-of-war was quite an event, only occurring once a-year; and although they were all most anxious to hear the news, they continued their devotions with the same fervency as if we had not been present.

      After the service was finished, I entered into all the complaints and disputes for the last twelve months, and to their credit I may say, it did not take ne more than an hour to arrange everything most amicably. I afterwards visited every house in the village, and was very much pleased with the cleanliness and order of the whole community, which amounted to 112, equal males and females. Their wants were very few, being a bell to call them to church (which had been done by firing a musket), a hand corn-mill to grind their Indian corn, and some books. I purchased a good supply of potatoes, fowls, a pig and a goat; the latter broke his tether when brought down to the boat, and scampered off up the island, and it was surprising to see the agility of the young people of both sexes giving chase over rocks and bushes without any shoes, but they soon brought him back again. "I was very sorry I had not time to remain with these interesting people longer, but as there was every indication of bad weather, and no anchorage for the ship, I was obliged to proceed on my voyage to Valparaiso."

      We are happily enabled to bring down the report of these interesting islanders to a much more recent date. Captain Edward Fanshawe, of H, M. S. Daphne, paid them a visit on the 10th and 11th of August last; and from a portion of his private correspondence, which has been kindly sent to us, we are enabled to add the following particulars:

      He compares the island, as it first appeared, to a little button on an immense sheet of blue cloth so small and solitary did it seem. On landing, however, he found it very beautiful, richly clothed with

tropical shrubs, and displaying well-cultivated gardens, planted with yams and sweet potatoes. The island is only five miles and a half in circumference, while its elevation is 1,200 feet; and the crags and precipices impart to it a wild and picturesque character; the deep blue sea coming close up to the rocks.

      The village, which is a straggling one, and built of wood, stands about 500 feet above the water; and its most conspicuous ornament is the chapel, which serves also for a school-house, and is surmounted by a flag-staff bearing the British ensign. But interesting as Pitcairn's island is in a physical point of view, it has acquired a far higher interest from the moral character of its inhabitants; and Captain Fanshawe fully confirms every preceding report of this remarkable little community.

      "They present," he says, "the very uncommon spectacle of a society, every individual of which appears to be solely guided in his practice by the precepts of Christianity. They are governed by a magistrate and two councillors, chosen annually. Mr. Nobbs continues to teach the school, and to administer all the offices of religion, except the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper." As one of the days of Captain Fanshawe's visit was Sunday, he attended Divine Service, which was quietly and well performed, and the singing was very good. The exact number of islanders, in August, was 151, and they are characterized as thoroughly amiable and virtuous, living in the utmost harmony and contentment. Their laws and regulations exhibit an anxious desire to prevent occasions of rivalry and contention. Their system does not countenance the theory of common property; but everything belongs to some individual or family; and their transactions with each other are conducted in a very liberal spirit.

      Captain Fanshawe states that one of his objects in visiting the island, was to ascertain whether the people were becoming too numerous for it; and his report is, that it will amply suffice for at least twenty years to come. The natives are naturally very reluctant to leave their ocean home. Another generation will have grown up before this necessity is laid upon any of them; and when at length the produce of their island shall no longer suffice for the wants of its inhabitants, we sincerely hope that the colonists who may go forth from it, will carry to the other settlements of the Pacific the simple manners, and cheerful disposition, and humble piety, which so singularly characterize Pitcairn's Island.

      We cannot conclude these observations without expressing our satisfaction that the account which we printed in a former Number has been transferred to various publications in England and America ; and we would suggest to the Messrs. Chambers, who have liberally offered to present any of their various works to the Pitcairn islanders, that they should make a selection of such publications, (especially those which relate to natural history, agriculture, and gardening,) as they shall consider most likely to be useful to the Pitcairn islanders, and address the parcel to the care of the Rev. William Armstrong, Chaplain at Valparaiso.

      Henry John Worth (1803-1852) entered the Royal Navy in 1813. He rose to the rank of captain in 1845 when he assumed command of H.M.S. Calypso at its commissioning and held that post until 1852.

"Pitcairn's Island."
      Colonial Church Chronicle and Missionary Journal.
Vol. III, No. 35 (May 1850).
pp. 414-419.

Pitcairn's Island  Source  Whalesite