Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC;

WITH OBSERVATION8 ON

THE NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF
THE NATIVES OF THE VARIOUS ISLANDS;

TOGETHER WITH REMARKS ON

MISSIONARIES, BRITISH AND OTHER RESIDENTS,

ETC. ETC.

BY JOHN COULTER, M.D.

Member of the Royal College of Surgeons, London; and late Surgeon on board the "Stratford."

DUBLIN

WILLIAM CURRY, JUN. AND COMPANY.

LONOMANS, BROWN, AND CO. LONDON.
FRASER AND CO. EDINBURGH.

1845.

Dublin: Printed by PURDON, BROTHERS, 6, Bachelor's-walk.

PREFACE.

      THE Pacific Ocean has of late excited great interest in the minds, I may say of all Europe, in consequence of the political transactions occurring at the Polynesian Islands, particularly at "Tahiti." The aggressions of the French have caused England to be on the watch, and Queen Pomare's remote but beautiful islands have and are likely to produce differences between those two great powers. The officers on so distant a station being too far off

to receive their despatches quickly, might, on some sudden impulse, do a rash act, that would terminate all friendly diplomacy. However, it is to be hoped that those gentlemen now intrusted with command will possess a share of the wisdom that guides the councils of their respective governments, and do nothing but what may tend to the interest and welfare of all.

      My last voyage extended to a period of four years, leaving London in 1832, passing round Cape Horn, touching and lying at anchor at a number of ports on the west coasts of both South and North America, stretching off westerly among the various islands in the North and South Pacific, crossing the meridian of 180°, and then among those in east longitude;

returning again by the South Pacific to the Polynesian group, and finally fitting out the ship for home at Tahiti, from whence we sailed over to Eimeo, took as passenger on board a missionary, who had been a great many years on these islands, Mr. Armitage and his family, and arrived in London in 1836.

      During such a voyage, and at such distant places, a variety of incidents must necessarily occur — some comic, some deeply tragic. A few of those I now give to the reader, reserving others for future purposes. Being strictly authentic, the senior reader may feel an interest in them, and the junior be amused by the shooting, fishing, and sailing excursions, with the exploring rambles on uninhabited islands.

      In order to save some readers the trouble of a reference to scientific books, I divest this altogether of the technicalities of botany and natural history; and wherever a native name occurs, I have written it down as correctly as I could from the sound of it conveyed to me.

      Dublin, September, 1845.

CONTENTS.

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

CHAPTER I.

      The new ship "Stratford" was built at the yard of Mr. White, Cowes, Isle of Wight, and did him ample credit. She was a beautiful model of naval architecture, and her sailing qualities first-rate. She was not intended to carry passengers, therefore her accommodations were expressly for the officers and crew. They were, in every respect, comfortable, and suited for the frequent changes of climate which she

sailed through. In the month of October, in the year 1832, she was ready for sea, having all her stores, guns, &c., on board, with a fine strong crew and agreeable officers, Captain Abijah Lock (well known in the South Seas) for her captain, and the writer of this for her surgeon. We were towed down to Gravesend, thence proceeded round to Spithead, the general starting port for all long and adventurous voyages. Here she was brought up for about a week, in order to again set up all her new rigging, in every way to prepare for departure, and receive our final instructions.

      We put to sea with light winds, which soon changed to strong southerly ones, and increased to so violent gales that we could not beat down channel, therefore bore up, and passed through the Needles to our old berth, inside the Isle of Wight.

The heavy winds so strained our new rigging, that we were obliged to remain for some days, to set all to rights again. During our stay here, we were obliged to let go the second anchor to hold on. Such was the severity of the gale, that several large ships drove from their anchors, and all the large men of war, the Caledonia, Vernon, &c., struck yards and masts. At last the sun shone brightly on us, and having got our anchors to the bows, with all sail set, we finally got off.

      A ship is never either clean or comfortably quiet until she gets well away, and that every man that is in the habit of living on shipboard well knows. While the ship is at anchor, the constant coming and going of visitors, the real torment of officers, never having their cabins or mess- rooms private, and constantly on the move to show every courtesy, is sometimes (though

it appears all very pleasant) a real source of annoyance, particularly as they well know they cannot go once on shore to spend a day or evening, for every ten their nominal friend comes on board, so that it is with no small feeling of inward pleasure that every sailor, from the stem to the stern of the ship, really feels himself at sea. The ship's company being divided into their respective watches, strict regularity prevails, and all is, comparatively speaking, quietness.

      The ship sailed very fast, and with the exception of taking an occasional reef in the topsails, we had little to do but look about us for a few days, and enjoy ourselves talking over shore scenes, all the time steering about S.S.E. When so far as the latitude of 45° N., it began to look dark to the northward and westward, and the quicksilver in the barometer fell seve-

ral degrees. We prepared to receive the visitor in the usual manner — that is, by making every thing aloft all snug, tricing up the boats, and otherwise well securing them, (for boats are things which are well taken care of always); and though last, not least to be despised, all the delft and glass are stowed comfortably away, and tin-ware put in their places. Being now perfectly ready for the dark-looking gentleman to windward, coming fast down after us, the breeze died away, until the ship had scarcely steerage way on her.

      After a little the air felt cooler, the wind freshened up, and blew from the northward — another hand was added to assist in steering. On the gale came with a roaring sound, the ship kept right before it. We were now steering under a close-reefed main-topsail, and the ship fairly hissing through it; the wind forced the

swell fairly down, the clouds cleared away, and nothing could be seen but one bed of foam. There was a description of the sea then given, in a very few words, which I have not since forgotten: — "This is the old wash-tub, with the suds all on the top." Such are sailors that, amidst the war of elements which surrounds them, and often threatens them with instantly being engulphed, they will have their joke out. Now no one could hear the other speak, such was the force of the storm. You could , feel the ship almost lifted along. The scene was grand; no pen could describe it; the power of the great Creator's breath was on the water, and man was nothing.

      The surface of the water was blown up into mist, like spray which rose from the foam, as it were, like dust, to the height of several feet, and was forced along be-

fore and around us. On, on we went, like something carried along by an invisible power, over which man has no control. The wild but beautiful scene appeared unearthly; there was something enchanting in watching the swift and silent passage of the vessel through this, as it were, hissing snow.

      To the non-nautical reader, I may here remark that the running of a ship before the wind creates both a different motion and noise in the ship, than one hove to, or running with the wind abeam. The violence of the storm was now so great that any sound or noise we could make on board was inaudible from the roaring of the wind and foaming of the sea around us. The ship seemed to have life, and bounded away from every threatening wave.

      This being the first time we had an opportunity to run before the wind, or try

our new ship's qualities in scudding — in fact, we had no alternative, for the storm was too strong to attempt to round the ship to, we would have gone clown in an instant — there were relieving tackles rove, lest the wheel-ropes should part; and, as we had nothing but a clear sea before us, every one watched closely the ship's action, on her new and first trial in this way. The old seamen looked excited and pleased; the younger ones at last felt so much delighted with the ship, that they danced, and weaved their clear arm (for one held on), and appeared like madmen. During the night, which was pitch dark, the phosphorescent appearance of the water illumined every thing. It seemed then as if the wand of enchantment had changed the water into boiling fire, and that we were rushing through it. Throughout the gale, the ship required the most careful steer-

ing; but there was every pleasure with her, she steered so easily and beautifully; none, of course, but the most experienced hands were sent to relieve the wheel. This trial stamped her down, in the minds of all, as being a "jewel of a ship." When the wind began to decrease, the sea began to rise very high; then the rolling motion was very unpleasant; but what compensated for that was, we lessened our latitude some hundred miles, and got a quick passage into fine weather.

      I have often been in gales of wind before, but have not experienced so severe a one, for the time it lasted; it was more like one of those typhoons which occur on the coast of Japan, than any thing else. In this, the sea was blown smooth down; generally with gales in the Atlantic there is a long deep swell. After such a storm as this, there is plenty of work in all de-

partments on board — the sailmakers to repair sails, the carpenters to the woodwork that has been carried away or otherwise damaged; the sailors to the rigging, which has all been strained, and requires tightning up; in fact, ever one to his own branch; but having plenty of hands, our damage was quickly repaired, and we kept on our course with a fine steady breeze.

CHAPTER II.

      In running down the latitude and getting within the tropics — that is, between the latitude 23° N. and S. of the Equator — the sky is monotonous, and has not that constant variety, as in higher latitudes. It is generally a clear blue, getting a duskier hue as you go on, with an occasional light, small cloud; but the water affords charming variety — it becomes of a deep blue colour. You can look deep into it, and then you will perceive that it teems with life. You will see an occasional fly-

ing-fish endeavouring to escape from the dolphin; thousands of bonitos and albicon around, and accompanying the ship; whales of every kind blowing the water from their spout-holes, and ploughing along, occasionally breaching clear out of water, and exhibiting a sized fish that any Waltonian might well stare at !

      Hundreds of miles from any land, you will often meet with a turtle floating on the water, and a few birds in the air flying round the ship, such as the Cape pigeon, a beautiful white bird, with a few black spots; the Tropic bird, about the pigeon size, of a pure white, with two long feathers in the tail, and a red bill. Sailors generally term this bird the "boatswain," as it sails over and around the ship, looking well at it, apparently to see if all is right and ship-shape. It often surprised me how many people considered being at

sea monotonous; to any man whose, mind is not totally absorbed with something afar off, there presents to his sight an endless variety.

      We made the Western Islands, and hove to for a short time off Fayal, to test our chronometers, and the accurate adjustment of the sextants, quadrants, &c. We had an excellent opportunity of doing so as the weather was smooth and sky clear.

      Having satisfied ourselves on this head, we continued our course onwards, occasionally speaking a vessel either homeward or outward bound. One large brig from Plymouth, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, spoke us, and the captain told us he had been chased by a pirate for several hours, begged we would keep company for a few days, for protection sake, particularly as both our courses were south-

erly. We did so for two days, but lost him afterwards in the night. Being a very dull sailer, we had to go under shortened sail, and he under all sail to keep up with us.

      Next land was the "Cape de Verds Islands." Ran in past Fogo, and lowered three boats to go on shore at Brava, to try and get some fowl and vegetables. In all expeditions to the shore, I was always one of the party, and on this one the captain also came, as we intended to pay our respects to the Governor of the island.

      We entered the only landing-place – a small bay, or rather a chasm between two immense high and steep rocks — and landed on the beach, at the head of which was the town, consisting of about a dozen or so of low, miserable-looking, stone houses. Having placed the boats in charge, the

captain and I, accompanied by a merchant resident there, a tall, old Irishman, strolled about to see every one and every thing.

      One large kind of storehouse attracted my attention, and I asked what was it for. Our friend told us, in plain English, it was a "slave-pen." It was now empty, but was not so a short time since, as a large brig had taken the stock off to the Brazils, and landed them safely, too — there were two hundred and seventy. It seems this island is a depot for the slaves brought from the coast of Africa, which is only a short distance off. They remain here in the "pen" until an opportunity offers to take them safely away. It gave rise to painful reflections to look at the "pen," and contemplate the purpose to which it was applied. Leaving the tall merchant behind us, we procured donkeys to pro-

ceed to the governor's residence. Our road was a very difficult ascent through a rough stoney gulley among rocks. Those patient beasts took care of both the rider and themselves, making an occasional stand to rest.

      At last we got to a piece of level land, (earth for a wonder), of considerable extent, on which stood the governor's house, the chapel, the jail, together with several other houses scattered about. There were a few plantain trees, with gardens containing Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, &c., but all in sad condition for the want of rain, which had not fallen for a long time. Indeed, some time before our arrival, hundreds of the unfortunate inhabitants perished for want of food, and in place of our getting any refreshments here, we sent them a quantity of bread and flour from the ship.

      The governor was, of course, a Portuguese officer. His costume consisted of an old faded military blue jacket, with old gold epaulettes, duck trowsers, canvas shoes, but no stockings. In spite of this costume, his manners were gentlemanly. He received us kindly, and gave us a lunch of preserved meats, fruit, &c. His lady had neither shoe nor stocking on. His excellency was annoyed with toothache, and was delighted at my arrival. With an old instrument which he had, I took it out, to his great satisfaction, and the amusement of his children, which were not a few. Indeed his residence appeared to be the only part of the island which was not barren. We took leave of him, being now about a thousand feet above the level of our ship, which we could scarcely see. We commenced our descent, which was a merry one, laughing the whole way down to the

beach — occasionally had a tumble — got into our boats, and pulled on board; made all sail to the southward, close hauled on the trade winds.

CHAPTER III.

      We sailed on over smooth water, and with fine weather, seeing and being accompanied by a great variety of fish, from the whale to the flying-fish. Passed the equator, (fortunately with little calm weather), in the usual manner — that is, having one liberty day for all hands, and the shaving-shop underweigh, to initiate those who had not crossed the line before. There was the usual dramatis personae — viz., Neptune with a great oakum beard, a wig of no

ordinary size, surmounted by a tin crown, and in his right hand his trident, alias a fish grains. His majesty was accompanied by his barber, armed with his razor, which consisted of two pieces of iron, made of old iron hoop, the blade about a foot long, rough enough for any purpose. His lather-box contained a very well-scented compound of tar, grease, and some other dirty stuff's. The washing basin used on this occasion was an iron tank, brought on deck for the purpose, and nearly filled with water.

      There is no use in delaying the reader by describing the rest of the suite; sufficient to say, they were all chips of the same block. There was not one in the ship who escaped a bucket of water on this occasion; but there were some who were, by Neptune's peremptory orders, well lathered, well 'scraped, put sitting (blind-

folded) on a seat beside the tank, and after apologising for any trouble or annoyance he may have given his shipmates, and promising to be a pleasant fellow for the future, some one near capsized him backwards into the water tank, to seal his sincerity. There is no use in making a row about it; his majesty being absolute, there is no appeal; if any one should prove refractory, he is first well pummelled, then well shaved, and finally well soused in the tank, Neptune's gang being powerful enough to execute his orders to the letter. If there should be such a thing on board as a disagreeable shipmate, it is generally discovered before the ship reaches the line, where Neptune is sure to reward him according to his deserts. One good trait in his majesty's character is, that, with the exception of a little lather, and a slight splash of water, the boys of the ship are safe; but to be

sure of it, they are generally dressed up, and form some of his imps, and imps they certainly then prove themselves to be. The decks having been cleared up, and the men having changed clothes, the grog goes round, and fiddling, fife and drumming, and dancing, close the entertainments of this mystic day.

      We made the best of our way to the southward, and in the latitude of about 46° S. encountered a great many ice- islands, some of them of vast extent, and of all manner of shapes. Here we were obliged to keep good look outs, and be otherwise careful. However, we got through this obstacle, assisted by stiff breezes, and reached the Falkland Islands, where we came to an anchor for a few days. I had every opportunity of examining those islands, at least some of them. They have many fine bays and inlets, well sheltered;

the land or earth appears to be good; it is covered over with long grass, and much tussie, with plenty of peat. There are no trees, all being of the small stunted scrub kind, good material only for brooms. There is plenty of fish, and seal about the rocks; and on the land plenty of geese, penguins, and albatross, with thousands of rabbits. These islands are called, in the Southern Atlantic conversation, the "egg market;" and well supplied it is, too, differing from markets in other places in this respect, that here there are no inhabitants, consequently nothing to pay, at least at the island where we lay; in others you often pay well for less value.

      Now, these geese, and penguins, albatross, &c., who have colonized this place, have very considerately, for any ship's crew, and perhaps for themselves too, built their nests in streets of about two or three miles

in length, and three to six feet wide. This arrangement is very convenient in every respect. The birds can easily hold a conversation across this street; and the sailors can walk up the centre of it, beat them out of their nests, and march off with the good eggs, thoughtfully leaving behind two or three bad ones, as an inducement for the inhabitants to return to their homes after the invasion.

      After we procured about six or seven tons of eggs, killed a good many seal, shot a number of rabbits, and strung our rigging with geese, we fired a twelve-pounder carronade for curiosity, to see how many birds would rise in sight. We got up our anchor, and left this decidedly capital place for food and fun.

      We had scarcely got clear of the island, which was one of the most westerly of the group, when we encountered a smell of a

south-wester, in the shape of a stiff gale. Double-reefed the topsails, &c., and made the ship otherwise snug for a real beating match round Cape Horn. After about three hard weeks of it, we got well to the southward and westward of the Cape. All this time the weather was the same, though it was midsummer here, January and February; yet we had violent gales from the southward and westward, right in our teeth, with hard hail and snow showers, and a long, deep, regular sea, with a fine thundering crest on the top of the wave, tumbling down and boiling in the bed of the sea. Frequently during all this, we were obliged to heave the ship to, and as there was no particular work for the men, they were generally employed cooking the eggs, which greatly contributed to the holding out of our sea stock.

      Another amusement was the catching

of Albatross, when the ship was hove to; this was done by attaching a line to a sail hook, fastening on a piece of fat, and causing both to float by lashing it to a bit of wood. This splendid, but fool of a bird, would pick it up; when he discovered his mistake, he would endeavour to raise himself out of the water; but all his exertions to free himself from the hook were unsuccessful, and he was hauled on board. When on the deck, he could not get up for want of wind under his wings, and with his enormous web feet he could scarcely stand. The albatross is a magnificent bird, generally from ten to fifteen feet from the tip to tip of wing; a long, powerful, curbed upper bill, and the plumage snow-white; you see them several hundred miles from land, in high southern latitudes, but scarcely ever find this bird within the tropics.

      In consequence of the numerous ice islands, and strong south-west gales, we were in about 57° south latitude, before we had made sufficient westing to bear up, and run northerly; but when we did, with the assistance of stiff breezes, and a cloud of canvas, rapidly both decreased our latitude, and got into fine weather; in running along we passed close to the Isle de Madre de Dio, and the island of Chiloe, which last appeared (through the glasses) to be under extensive cultivation, next the islands of Mocha and St. Mary's, and came to an anchor in the bay of Talcahuana, (the seaport of Conception,) one hundred and twenty days from England.

      It was now really refreshing to look round from the ship, the entire sides of this long, deep, and beautiful bay clothed down to the water's edge with the richest verdure. You appeared as if land-locked,

for the island of Quiriquina nearly blocks up the sea view. The water all around the ship appeared every day to be alive with fish of all kinds — a great many black whales coursing through the bay, and shoals of a small kind of porpoise, commonly called puffing pigs. The battery was directly ahead of us, and the town to the left, having a good appearance from the water. The houses are all one story, though possessing every comfort. There is only one inn in it, the "Cavallia Blonca," at which I put up for a few days, was something like one of our shabby country inns. I received every kindness from several Spanish and English residents, and marked kindness from Captain Dilanoe, commandant of the port, whose residence was a long, low building, possessed of every thing that comfort and luxury required. He is a humorous fellow, a very fat one, and one of the sort that it would do you good to see laugh.

      I had a great many excursions through the country — to the city of Conception, and all the small towns within any reasonable distance. The climate is delightful, and the country luxurious; every thing in it looks rich. I had also an opportunity of seeing the Lasso well tried. The Chilians (even boys) use it with amazing dexterity. Birds of all descriptions are very numerous. I have often seen flocks of snipe crossing the bay, and settling to the left of the town, that would cover acres, and very easily shot, for they fly low. I was tempted several times to use my doubled-barrelled gun among them; and several would fall at every discharge. They are nearly twice the size of ours, and good to eat. There are also ducks, plover, &c.

      The ship lay here about three weeks, painting, and setting every thing in order, after our late passage. Being always

partial to a good gun, I was here tempted to purchase from a gentleman a first-rate double-barrelled rifle, which was afterwards justly a favourite of mine, being my constant companion in pleasure and danger.

CHAPTER IV.

      Chili, and the neighbouring coast, have been long ago well and repeatedly described, so that in this book I shall not say any thing about it. Having every thing ready, we got under weigh, and left this charming bay, for in the water, in the air, and on the land, there is an endless variety, and the landscape is unusually pleasing. Having made a stretch off the coast about forty miles, we had a fine view of the tops of the Andes, covered with snow. It was a curious sight, when the land of the coast

could not be seen. The temperature here and the weather were very fine.

      After two days we came in sight of Juan Fernandez, and ran for the north side of the island, where we anchored in (what is laid down on the charts as) Cumberland bay. Indeed it is the only bay or landing-place on the island — and deep water close to the beach. It is open to the northward, and, in case of a blow from north, (which not unfrequently happens here,) a dangerous anchorage; however, the weather was fine, and suited us well. There were no inhabitants on the island when we arrived; some time before there were about one thousand convicts sent there by the Chilian government; but they rose on the soldiers in charge of them, and killed them and the Governor; afterwards boarded two vessels at anchor at the time, and made them land them on the coast. I understood that they

were hunted by the troops on landing, and great numbers shot.

      After leaving the beach, you arrive at a large strip of level land, the remains of the houses, or rather huts, in a state of ruins, were scattered about on either side; also the remains of an old jail, or lock-up. On passing the huts, this level land is found to extend to twenty or thirty acres. There were vast quantities of rose bushes in full bloom, with immense beds of mint, so tall that you could hide in it without being discovered. The fragrance of this valley was enchanting to us. The small hills surrounding it, thickly covered with middling- sized timber in rich foliage, and a small rippling stream running through it, all added to its beauty. In strolling up the bills, we soon discovered that the smaller timber had a very loose hold in the earth, which was mostly red mould, as some of

our men, in laying hold of them, to assist themselves up, came back accompanied by the tree.

      The entire island is a succession of small hills and valleys, each with its little stream; and those rivulets often uniting, came dashing over the cliffs with great force. On it we discovered some bullocks, goats, and dogs, all in good condition, but very wild, dashing through the thickets like deer when disturbed. However, as a ship cannot have too much provision on board, (all hands generally having good appetites,) we determined to have a few of them. So I was commissioned, as chief hunter, to procure a supply.

      The carpenter, being one of the shore party, soon made a temporary hut for any one who remained at night — all the old ones being full of fleas. This hut, during our stay, never had less than two inhabi-

tants, frequently ten; and they were the merriest set I ever saw: they were mostly the wooding, watering, and butchering party. Every morning, having eaten a good breakfast, (we had frying-pans, &c. on shore,) I started with my new acquisition, the double-barrelled rifle. I brought no one with me: they were all too careless in going along, and too noisy; and I seldom failed before noon in returning to the hut, for two or three of the butchering gang, to show them where the game lay. Often, in coming along, I would get a shot at a young goat scampering off, bring him down, and shoulder him myself. In this manner, in a few days, we had ten bullocks salted down for the ship's use, with a number of young goats fresh.

      There was also no want of fish, as the water round the islands abounds with the best rock cod I ever saw. The men knocked

down a few seal among the rocks. My hunting excursions through the island cost me several jackets and trowers; the bushes tore them off me; and I came to the beach every evening almost in rags. Having increased our stock with salted beef, and fish in abundance, wood, water, &c., we took up the anchor, and got out, after having a party of useful pleasure for a few days, in this very romantic island.

      We certainly had fine dry weather while we remained, which greatly facilitated travelling through the island, particularly up hill and down valley; but I think, if there had been much wet, we could not have done so, as the particles of the red earth are very soft, and would quickly form thick mud, in which state you could not move. We also brought away three boat loads of fine mint, which was afterwards dried on deck, and stowed away in empty casks. This

made an agreeable anti-scorbutic tea, which we used, as long as it lasted, morning and evening.

      This island appeared to be about sixteen or eighteen miles in length, and about six or seven wide. About thirty or forty miles to the westward of it is Massa Fuera, which we had a look at, but did not land on. It appeared to be all rocks, with scarcely a patch of earth.

CHAPTER V.

      In ranging up along the coast, we put into almost all the ports of Peru and Colombia; but as to those I will not now speak, but shall bring the reader at once to the "Gallapagos Islands," situated between 1° north latitude, and 2° south latitude, and between 89° and 92° west longitude. They consist of six large, and seven smaller islands. The most important ones, as to size, are named as follows: Albemarl, the largest, Chatam, Charles's, or, as it is now called, "La Flo-

riana," James's, Gardiner's, Abingdon, Wenman's, Culpeper's, &c. Part of Albemarl is very high, and I believe about four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and has every appearance of once having been a great volcano. It can be seen a long way off. The other islands are not so high.

      We first came to an anchor at Charles Island, in an excellent inlet, or harbour, the usual, and only place for anchorage at the island. The land abreast of the ship where she now lay was high, and rugged, covered with rocks, and masses of old lava, with a great quantity of the prickly pear, mangrove, and other evergreens, in great variety; but this spot is so exceedingly rugged, that you could not penetrate far into the country without great inconvenience, and the liability of having your clothes torn off you.

      To the eastward of the anchorage there is more level ground; which from the natural arrangement of the trees, looks like a well-laid-out park. There is also a fine beach for landing at, called and known well by the name of "Pat's Landing." From this beach, away up into the mountains, the country is beautiful; and from the very irregular and fanciful appearance of the rocks, trees, &c. highly romantic. There are a great many ravines or gullies, which, in the rainy season, are full of water, tearing its way to the sea. There are also many caves of very peculiar formation. By going into any of those, and making a noise, or firing a shot, whole flocks of owls and bats will be disturbed.

      This beach I have mentioned got its name from an Irishman who many years ago resided on this island for a long time, the sole inhabitant, except when a runaway

sailor or two would join him. His history, as far as is known, was that of a very daring, reckless, and strange being. He belonged to several ships on the coast, and was in many of the revolutionary rows, so common in Chili, Peru, Colombia, &c. At last he formed one of the crew of a whale ship which was cruising round those islands, the captain of her having a great deal of trouble with him, he having formed several plots to mutiny, and take the ship, there being no feeling of security as long as he was on board, he was landed on the southern extremity of Albemarl Island.

      Here water being extremely scarce, he was nearly famishing, and would have died from the want of it, but that he squeezed the juice out of the prickly pear and cabbage tree. This was a substitute, which saved his life. As to food, he had plenty of doves and terapin, or the land tortoise, which is

excellent. After some months the captain of an American whale ship humanely took him off; and landed him, at his own request, on Charles's Island, with which he was familiar, and which he knew possessed plenty of fine water from springs.

      He was landed on the beach in question, from which there is a complete and naturally beautiful avenue up to the mountains; and nearly at the summit of one of them there is a spot of excellent land, of four or five acres in extent, nearly surrounded with high hills; in fact, there is only one pass into it. On this level he erected his house or hut, and had a great deal of it under cultivation; so much so that he had a quantity of vegetables, such as sweet potatoes, pumpkins, Indian corn, melons, with plenty of hogs and poultry; those he sold for years to the shipping. He also dug a well on his farm, and though

in high land, at a moderate depth obtained a good supply of fine water.

      I understood his chief dress consisted of a seal-skin cap over his red bushy hair, a red flannel shirt, and pair of flannel drawers, with seal-skin mocasins on his feet. He never went without his gun, particularly when he had those runaways with him; neither did he sleep two nights in the same place. He knew every cave and secret spot on the island, and occasionally used them for dormitories. Now, it is a strange circumstance, and yet a fact, that this man, whenever those runaway sailors resided on the island, would enforce subjection, and actually compelled them to work his farm for him. They were soon glad to separate from him by joining, on any terms, the first ship that came in.

      He was often greatly blamed, (though I believe unjustly), for inducing sailors

to leave their ships, and in one case he suffered for it. An American whale ship put in there, and two of the crew, who had been severely treated on board, took to the bush, and Pat was blamed for harbouring them. Captain Bunker, of Nantucket, who commanded the ship, invited him on board, and in ignorance of what had occurred, or the men leaving, he accepted the invitation.

      As soon as he came on board, he was tied up and severely flogged, then handcuffed and landed on the beach to die or live as he might, with his hands fast, and no one to loose them. It was a murdering, brutual act of this ruffianly captain. The ship sailed the next day, and left him to his fate.

      Pat, however, was not to die in this manner; for in his seal-skin cap, which was, fortunately for him, not removed from

his head, he had two files, one of which, with both hands, he drove firmly into a tree; he then patiently and perseveringly commenced and continued the operation of filing through the handcuffs, until he freed himself. He then for ever vowed vengeance against the captain who treated him so, if ever he should be in his power.

      He had an iron frame, a strong and well cultivated mind. He had received a good education in his youth; this, to a character like, him, made him doubly mischievous. A few months afterwards, as he was round at the other side of the island, after seal, in his boat, which he called the Black Prince, he fell in with an English whale ship. From the crew he learned that he would soon have visitors, as two or three American ships were to call at the island. One of them was that on board of which

he had been so barbarously treated. He had at this time four men with him.

      On hearing this news, he pulled directly round to his landing-place. In a few days after, the expected ships arrived. He determined not to appear, but watch them well, and keep his men out of sight. The three captains, one of whom was Bunker, pulled on shore, and in a bottle, made fast to a pole on the beach, they found a note written by Pat, stating that, from the bad treatment he often received, he had left the island for ever, and that whoever would arrive first would find plenty of everything in his garden. I may here remark, that this method generally forms a South Sea post-office, where one ship leaves a memorandum for the next.

      The skippers concluded that all was right, and that there was no one on the island; and after walking about a little,

they agreed to come on shore the next day to have a pic-nic dinner, and to send their men up and plunder the garden. Pat was concealed so near that he heard all, and made his arrangements accordingly. Next day they came on shore, and brought their cold meat and wines away up the valley to a pleasant green plot, where they had a view of the ships, but not of the landing-place they came to. They had four boats on shore, hauled well up on the beach. They enjoyed themselves for hours, when one went up to an eminence near, to have a look round. He no sooner got a view of the beach than he came back like a madman, and told them their boats were knocked about, and to come down at once.

      Those tyrannical rascals were now complete cowards; they left all and ran as quick as they could down to the beach,

where they found the four boats, oars, and all in pieces; also a large slip of paper, with "remember the handcuffs" on it; also, "Bunker, I'll have you yet." There was an instant signal made to the ships to send a boat; fortunately for them, it was instantly answered. They were scarcely seated and shoved off, when a bullet from a gun on shore whistled among them and through the boat. In another instant three shots were fired after them; but they were safe, and out of reach of the guns. Pat then showed himself on the beach, gun in hand, and waved his cap over his head in triumph. No one came on shore to pick up the fragments. Those ships got under weigh in the evening, and disappeared. So much for barbarity on one side, and revenge on the other.

      This wild and strange man lived, I believe, about eighteen or twenty years on

this island, but did not die here. He went in his open boat, "the Black Prince," more than once, in on the coast a distance of six hundred miles; but the water is always smooth here, so it is not to be wondered at.

      The last time he went was to Guyaquil, and thinking he might as well have a queen for his beautiful island, of which he was the sole and daring monarch, after, I suppose, telling all manner of inducing stories, there was the wife of a Spaniard who agreed to accompany him. She was actually in the boat, and they about to shove off, when the Spaniard jumped in to bring back his wife. A struggle ensued; "Pat" was stabbed to the heart, and fell dead in the bottom of his "Black Prince."

      Such was the termination of the career of this extraordinary man. He is re-

ported to have been always warm-hearted and kind to those who were at all friendly to him, but implacably revengeful to those who ill-used or insulted him.

CHAPTER VI.

      About two miles to the westward of where the ship lay at anchor, is a beach of about a quarter of a mile in length, covered with small black stones and black sand. This is known well as the "Black Beach," and is the landing-place which leads to the fertile part of the island, and to where there is a never-failing supply of the purest water. There is a gradual ascent up this valley for about a mile and a half, to where the first spring is met with. All the way it is like a park with trees; but

the ground is very sandy and poor. After passing the first spring, you stand about six hundred feet above the level of the sea. Then commences the fine rich land, which continues for about three miles, right up to the head of the valley, and foot of high and rugged mountains, where the large spring is, at a height of about eight hundred feet above the level of the sea.

      This head-spring throws up a large quantity of water, which courses through the rich land of the valley; is joined again by the water of the first spring, and forms a small but rapid stream, which courses its way down to the beach, and over it into the sea. Here, with a proper arrangement of a hose or tube, formed simply by joining large bamboos together, ships in any number might obtain as great a quantity of water as they pleased.

      This fine valley is of surprising fertility, and produces in abundance sweet potatoes, Indian corn, pumpkins, melons, bananas, plantain, with several other kinds of fruits, and some spices, and is perfectly capable of supporting a very extensive population. The temperature is agreeable, and not at all oppressive, being caused by the great height of the land above the level of the sea, and the fresh trade winds sweeping round the mountains.

      On our arrival at the Black Beach, we soon found that there was a settlement, formed up in the valley, of a set of sanguinary black Spaniards, who had been transported to it, under the governorship of a Mr. Vilamil, who obtained a grant of the island from the government of Ecuador, in return for services he rendered to it, and for which they could not pay him in any other way.

      Now, those islands were no man's land before; the governments on the coast had no right or control over them, and I am sure I had just as much right to give a grant of one of them to Vilamil as they had, and I had just as valid an authority as he had to be governor. However, he was a very gentlemanly, pompous man — imagined himself, and was in reality a kind of a monarch; but, like many other kingdoms over which men reign, there were very uncertain and uneasy subjects. It was no bed of roses to this governor; he was obliged to be on watch, and did not know, if he lay down well in his hammock (he always slept in one) at night, but he might get a thrust of a long knife through it before morning, such was the love his sable subjects bore him.

      Down the centre of the valley was a kind . of a road, or rather a wide foot-

path; on either side, scattered along, were the dwellings, situated generally in the centre of the cultivated grounds; they had the appearance of log-houses. So that those exiled people should not be lonely, there were a good many women shipped of with them, who, with the children, gave the place the appearance of a new colony. The governor's house was at the head of the valley, close to the chief spring. It was backed by high rocks, consisted of three apartments, and a store containing a little of every thing requisite for the colony. At the back of the house, there was a natural cave of about twenty feet long, with an entrance of about eight feet high. To this entrance, a strong door, or, more properly speaking, gate, well secured, was fitted; this was the jail. In front of the house was a clear open space, from which there was a commanding view of

this rich valley and the adjacent grand scenery.

      Being under the impression that we would take a good supply of vegetables from the island, Vilamil invited us to spend a day or two with him. I did so, but the captain went on board. I found him a well-informed man, highly accomplished, and with his nephew, "Sanchaz," we formed a very agreeable party. I could scarcely refrain from laughing heartily, as he detailed to me his plans of government and the laws of the colony, his formation of the magistracy, all of said magistrates being nearly as black as a coal, and without either shoe or stocking. It was highly amusing, particularly as I could at a glance see the kind of ruffians he had about him.

      Each evening, after the discussion of the affairs of the nation, we generally got

out the old big drum, a guitar, and two or three fifes, gathered together a few of the people, and set them to dancing the "fandango," which lasted a couple of hours, all the time the governor sitting in an arm chair in the shade, that scamp "Sanchaz" on his right; I supported his left. I could not avoid calling to mind the words Defoe put into Robinson Crusoe's mouth, when he found himself surrounded by his pets — "how much like a king I looked." Sunset ended these farcical scenes, and after having been piloted into every house in the valley, in the course of a three days' stay, by Sanchaz, I bid the governor farewell, and got on board. Now a few words about Vilamil, his people, and their property or farms.

      Those people work hard, and plant their grounds, which produce abundantly. If

they require an article of clothing, (which they did from their landing, for they were sent off nearly naked,) or an implement to repair their houses, or cultivate their plots of land, or any other necessary, they go to the governor's store, and get it in exchange, (where a small account is run up.) They give a mortgage on the crop nearly ripe. The produce of this, when ready, is taken away from them, and they are left bare enough, with little else than a bitter feeling of dark Spanish hatred to the governor for thus depriving them of their crops. This system was carried to such an extent, that scarcely a family owned what was growing on their own ground. It was all mortgaged long ago, root and branch, to Vilamil, against whom and his store there existed the most deadly hatred. After I became thoroughly informed of all, and the people's good wishes towards him, I was anxious to

be off, not knowing the moment some insurrection might take place.

      I was afterwards informed that my anticipations were realized. Shortly after we left, the people got out of all patience with him, made three attempts to assasinate him, and finally finished the affair in real creole Spanish style, by cutting him down with their machettas. I was also told many of the people left the island; but some remained. To me they appeared, and were very kind; and I am disposed to think that he might have gone on safely enough, but for his oppressive conduct.

      Previous to the arrival of Vilamil and his colony of revolutionary convicts, there lived on this island, for several years, a man well known to all the whale and other ships touching at the island. He was a Swede; his name was "Johan Johonson," or, as it was generally simplified, "John-

ston." He spoke English fluently, and was quite a different person from "Pat."

      He had a neat weather boarded small house close by the first spring at the foot, or commencement of the fertile valley I have already spoken of as the site of the present colony. The inside of his house was neat and clean, and a pen, containing a number of the terrapin or elephant tortoise, close to it. He had also a good supply of poultry; and his garden was well stocked with vegetables. He was a man of naturally strong mind, amiable disposition, and persevering industry. His house, and all it contained, the cultivation of his garden, his pram, or small boat, his pen full of terrapin, was all the work of his own hands.

      In addition to constant employment, which he thus kept himself in at home, he frequently went round among the rocks, and got, from time to time, a good many

fur seal, the skins of which, together with his garden produce, he sold to shipping, getting some cash, and whatever clothing and other necessaries he stood in need of. He was a middle-sized man, of stout make, with a regular sea roll in walking. His dress generally consisted of light canvas jacket and trowsers, with seal-skin cap, and mocassins of his own manufacture. His dress and person were always particularly clean; and between fishing, sealing, shooting, and attending to his garden, he fully occupied his time; and he assured me, though he lived the chief part of several years alone (except the occasional call of a ship) on this island, he passed his time happily — it was quite to his mind.

      He had been on the island before he came to reside, found out there was both plenty of good land and water; and he resolved to come back, and live on

it, which he did. He kept a book, or registry, and when a ship called, the captain put the ship's name down, with the nature of the voyage, their success, &c. This gave information to those who followed. Captain Lock was kind to him, and always liked him. He brought off two asses from the coast, and gave them to him. This assisted Johnston greatly in his farming operations, and the bringing of the terrapin out of the bush to the "pen," when he had them convenient to sell, or use himself.

      Johnston was the sole inhabitant when Vilamil arrived. The latter told me he did every thing he could to make a friend of him, knowing he would be a most useful person to him, as he knew the island thoroughly. He volunteered to give him land free; but all would not do, as he considered he had as good a right to the island, on which he so long lived, as the lately-arrived

governor. So when Greek meets Greek, &c. . . . This diplomatic transaction ended in Johnston's being arrested, handcuffed, and sent off the island.

      Johnston's version of the matter is, he said — "Vilamil, who had no right to come there at all, did so accompanied by the very scum of Guyaquil, a whole gang of robbers, &c.," and that the first thing he did was to turn him out of his house, for his own use, take his asses, eat up all his poultry and garden vegetables, and because he remonstrated, this arbitrary governor told him he was not safe from him, handcuffed him, and sent him away. He went in on the coast, but came off again; and we fell in with him on James's Island.

      To the eastward of the beach I have mentioned as Pat's Landing, there are several ponds, or salt-water lagoons, surrounded by level land closely timbered,

which has a very pleasing effect. On those patches of water there are many wild ducks, at any time easily shot; and around their little strands you will often see whole files of flamingos marching along. Their long legs, the peculiarity of their gait, with their bright scarlet plumage, give them a miniature martial appearance. Indeed the likeness is so striking, that I heard one of our boat's crew say to his ship-mate — "I'm blowed, Bill, if here aint the sodgers;" and immediately commenced an attack, by shying sticks after them; but as those apparent soldiers have a gift of running fast, they soon got out of the way of the cock sticks of our worthies. We afterwards pulled round the rocks after seal; but as they are easily alarmed on this island, and the boat's crew was too laughing and noisy, we could make nothing of them. Having spent a pleasant day, with a volunteer

boat's crew round the easternmost part of the island, we returned on board our ship, with seven brace of wild ducks, and a number of fine rock cod-fish.

      There is an isolated peculiarity of mind which induces men voluntarily to take up their abode on uninhabited islands; yet, those two instances on Charles's island, of first Pat, and after him Johnston, are not the only ones in the Pacific Ocean, or elsewhere. There is scarcely an uninhabited island in those seas, in the thoroughfare of shipping, on which there is a fertile spot of earth with a supply of fresh water, that has not its Robinson Crusoe on it.

      In one respect there is an inducement to live on them; and that is by the sale of their produce to seamen, who are very glad to get a supply of fresh vegetables occasionally, and even give cash for it. Then again, the great feeling of ease of mind, and

independence — no one to control a man, no one to demand any thing of him. The only real annoyance those isolated men meet with is the occasional runaway sailor, who hides in the bush until the ship sails, and then asks shelter from the monarch of the island, and perhaps afterwards ill-treats or otherwise annoys him.

      This was the case once with Johnston. He had a fine large boat, a launch which he purchased from a ship that lay at his anchorage. With this boat he made several sealing excursions of two or three weeks at a time, to various islands of this group. He had a few men to man her with him for months, and did every thing he could for them; yet those men got tired of the island. Taking advantage of his absence one day, they got the boat ready for sea, took a supply of provision from his house, with all the money he had been for years saving

up, (five hundred dollars in cash,) and sailed away, leaving him as poor as the first day he commenced his solitary settlement.

      The peculiar history and lives of some of those strange beings which I have seen elsewhere, deserve a particular and more lengthened account than I can give in this book. Indeed the detailed life and adventures of some of them would form a good-sized volume; so I will reserve them for another time.

CHAPTER VII.

      We remained at this anchorage for three or four days more to do some repairs to the ship and boats, and put every thing in perfect order for taking the sperm whale, as numbers are known to frequent those islands; and as we intended to cruise about the group for some time, to endeavour to take some of those valuable and majestic fish, an account of the preparations necessary for such an arduous undertaking may not be uninteresting to some readers.

      Ships engaged in the sperm whale fishery are out seldom less than three years, some of them four, according to their success, and other adventures. They are well found in provisions; and having such a quantity of casks on board, are never without an abundant supply of fresh water, except they are extraordinarily situated. They are all well armed, and have plenty of all sorts of ammunition, as they have often to defend themselves from the hostilities of natives; and during such a long absence from home, their respective nations might go to war. Then they would have to take care of themselves.

      Most of the English whale ships, during the last wars, were what are called letters of marque, or, in plainer terms, commissioned privateers; and they either caught whales, or the enemy's vessels, as circumstances threw either in their way. They always

have a large complement of men, as each boat is obliged to have its own crew; and those ships have generally from four to six boats over the side, ready for lowering after whales.

      Those boats are of the best description for such purposes, and will live in any sea that a boat can exist in. They are clinker built, that is, one plank slightly over-lapping the other, sharp in bow and stern, both ends being curved a little upwards. Those boats are always steered by an oar generally five or six and twenty feet long, which is kept in its place in the sternpost, by a strap passing round it. As the boat is sometimes to go astern as well as a-head, this long oar is not in the way, and enables whoever steers to sweep rapidly round the boat, or lay it of or on the whale, as may be required. There are also five oars pulling, a mast and a lug sail to assist them

occasionally, which mast and sail are laying along the stern sheets, and never shipped until required, and always unshipped the moment the whale is struck, as the boat would then be unmanageable if it remained us.

      In the nose of the boat there is a deep chalk or groove, the lower part of it being leaded. Through this the line passes; and as it does so rapidly sometimes, the leading prevents the boat from taking fire. There is also a pin across over the line, which prevents the line slipping out, an axe and knife keenly sharp close to it, to cut the line instantly, if, in running out, it should get foul, as in that case the boat would be taken down with it. On the stern sheet there is also a similar provision against a like accident.

      The line, which is made as strong as possible, and about the thickness of the

middle finger, is coiled closely down in regular fakes in two tubs. It is generally one hundred and twenty fathoms to each boat. One end is bent on to the harpoon; the other (with an eye spliced in it) is left hanging out of the sternmost tub. This is done in order that, if the fish sounds too deep, another boat may pull up, and bend on its lines. In this way I have seen a fish take down three boats' lines, each boat having signals in it, to hurry up those nearest to them. If the boats should be too far off, the ship, which is at such a time under all sail, will run down close to, and drop another boat, to give the necessary lines or assistance.

      There are also three or four spare irons, with as many lances, in the boat, in case they might be required. The harpoon is always fastened to the line, and is merely to hold on, (sometimes the fish is killed by

it.) The lance is to dart frequently into the body of the fish to kill him, and is fast to its own small line of from fifteen to twenty fathoms long. In both sides Of the bow of the boat there is a cleet nailed on the gunwale, and serves a very important purpose, in the act of hauling in the line, and up on the fish. When close to, the line is bowed, or shifted to this cleet, which, in place of running the boat right on the fish, it causes it to range up alongside of it, and enables the officer of the boat to lance boldly into the body of it, without being in danger of getting the boat and all hands struck by the tail, or, as whalers call it, the flukes.

      Under the stern sheets there is stowed away a small bag of biscuit, a small cask full of water, a lantern and fireworks, in case of being benighted; and, though last not least, some pipes and tobacco, for a refresh-

ing smoke, while they are laying beside their dead prize, and waiting for the ship to send out the thick fluke ropes, and take it alongside. Those boats are always ready fitted, every thing in them, and ready for instant lowering. They are slung to the davits by the tackle falls, and carefully resting on cranes, which easily swing to the side out of the way.

      On deck there is, in the forward part of the ship, close to the fore hatch, a brick building, lined outside, and well secured with wood, and iron knees. In this work are two large boiling, or trying pots, to boil down the blubber. Underneath them are the fires, generally fed by the scraps, or portions of blubber which have been already deprived of their oil.

      To the main mast head there is attached an immense block, well secured, through which a huge tackle fall is rove. This fall

goes to the windlass; and when the hook of the other block is in the blubber on the fish, it is hoisted up in board pieces of about one and a-half yard wide, and from fifteen to eighteen feet long. Those are termed blanket pieces. On the outside of the ship, and over the dead whale alongside, are two stages, on which two of the mates stand, with a breast rope before each, to keep him from falling over board. They each have long spades, and cut the blubber the proper breadth spirally from the base of the head to the flukes. A hole is cut near the fin.

      A man goes down on the fish to fasten the hook. This is often a dangerous duty for the man, as a dead whale always attracts plenty of sharks, which keep plunging about, and up on the fish At such a time the long spades are ready, to chop at the sharks, and keep them off; till the man

      gets on board again. As soon as the hook is in, they ship the handspikes into the windlass, and hoist away to a lively chorus; and as the blubber is torn up, the spades clear it underneath. When it is high up, as I have mentioned, the hook is shifted in the blanket piece, and above this it is cut off with an immense two-handed knife, swung inboard, and lowered between decks.

      As this spiral stripping of the blubber goes on, the body is kept turning; and when nearly to the flukes, the most valuable part of the sperm whale, the head, is secured, cut off, and the carcass let go to the bottom, with thousands of sharks of all sizes tearing at it.

      The head is generally cut in three or four pieces, and entirely hoisted in on deck. As soon as this is juncked up into tubs, the decks are scrubbed, well washed, and are made as clean and white as before the

operation commenced. It is a long day's work for all hands to cut in a large whale; but when it is accomplished, it is a clear five hundred pounds worth on-board, a share of which every man has, from the captain to the cook, according to their rank on board.

      For my part, generally the way I occupied my time on such occasions of cutting in, was sitting in one of the quarter-boats, and murdering the sharks with a lance, which I had fitted, and expressly sharpened for those gentry.

      It is a strange sight to watch the few beautiful little pilot fish which accompany the most ferocious descriptions of sharks, some darting a-head of him; some, swimming over his head; others, alongside his horrid jaws; but all guiding or piloting him to his prey; and as he tears and worries off large pieces, the small floating particles are

picked up by them. They are a very delicate fish to eat; and we had many opportunities of getting them. It was thus: hook the shark, and haul him in-board. The pilot-fish will then get close under the ship's stern, where they can be caught with small trout hooks, carefully baited.

      During the time of cutting in, the ship is under sail, with the main yards aback, or, in other words, laying to; as soon as the carcass is gone, and the head in-board, all sail is again made to get to windward. While cruising for whale, the look-outs are on the cross trees — one man at the fore, one at the mizen, and an officer and one man at the main. Those are regularly relieved every two hours.

      Independent of the general equipment and full armament of those ships, the comforts and amusements of the crew are not forgotten. The cabins are very comfortable.

There is one large mess-room, with the officers' state rooms off it; then the after cabin, with its state room for the captain. There is always a very respectable library on board; also drums, fifes, and other musical instruments, which are all brought into frequent requisition. Altogether, they are very agreeable ships; and any one feeling a wish for adventure and variety, can be fully gratified in those vessels, as there are none others afloat that have the same endless opportunity. In cruising after whale, they frequently circumnavigate the globe, and call at every island and port at all convenient.

      On the third morning after leaving Charles's Island, while in sight of Albemarl, the look-out on the foretop gallant yard sung out — "There he blows — there again, and at regular intervals — there again." "Where away?" "About four points on

the lee bow, sir." "Put the helm up." "Ay, ay, sir," responded the helmsman. "Steady, steady it is, sir." We got the telescopes at work, (and first-rate ones they are always in whale ships.) After a steady look, our well-experienced skipper pronounced it to be a large sperm whale. "Boat's crews of the larboard side, stand by to lower three boats." "Ay, ay, sir," rang fore and aft the ship, when, about a mile from the whale, the helm was put down, lee main braces let go, and the ship became stationary, with the main yards aback. "Ready there?" "All ready, sir." "Lower away."

      The boat tackle falls, rattled through the block, and the boats were in the water. No huntsmen ever followed a pack of hounds with greater glee than the boat's crews of those ships pull after their game. We now filled away on the ship to have full command

over her, and to keep to windward of the boats. They pulled silently and steadily on. The whale was going along easily. By- and-by the chief officer's boat got close up, and one iron darted into the body of the fish, then another, and the boat was fast.

      They were by this time so close to the ship, you could hear him sing out, "stern all now," and the boat was pulled quickly astern; the whale reared itself half out of the sea, then buried its head in it, raised his enormous flukes, gave a blow on the surface of the water, the sound of which you could hear far off; then he went down, or, as they call it, sounded; the boat was drawn right over him, and the line whirring through the chalks as he descended. When the second tub was all but out, it stopped; then they commenced hauling in the line, and coiling it loosely in the stern sheets as fast

as they could. This hauling in of the line is always accompanied by the cheering "hurra, hurra, hurra, &c."

      They got in the line very fast, and when the whale came up to blow, the boat was not more than four hundred yards off, the oars all peaked, and out of the water; he then started to windward, towing the boat after him at about fifteen miles an hour, the water boiling and foaming high up on either side of it. All hands in the boat now laid hold of the line, and kept hauling up on him; and as they passed not far from the stern of the ship, they got alongside him by bowing the line. The officer lanced, and after each dart of the lance into the fish, the shank of it had to be straightened, which is easily managed in the bow of the boat. After running about two miles to windward of the ship, the fish blew up blood out of his spout hole. This is at once

the indication of the death blow being given.

      He stopped suddenly; the boats slackened the line, and pulled astern out of the way, as he was going into his death flurry. They had scarcely got well clear of him, when he rolled heavily, reared his great head up, beat the water with his fins and flukes in great fury, made one tremendous plunge, and was no more.

      This whale was on the whole easily taken, but the case and results are often very different, even with much smaller ones. The sperm whale is a very active fish, and it frequently tests its powers by destroying boats and their crews with both jaws and flukes; often I have seen our boats stove in pieces by the whale. As soon as the crew see the danger coming, they jump overboard, afterwards get up on the wreck, or take an oar under their arms until the other boats come and pick them up. Accidents happen

with the line getting. foul, or taking a man overboard and down with it. Altogether it is a most exciting, but frequently dangerous sport; yet it appeared so fascinating a one to those engaged, that I felt a great desire to go off in the boats, so that I could closely view the fish, and the killing of him.

      Some time after we were cruising in the great bay at Albemarl, when early in the day we found the ship surrounded with cow whales, which are all of a moderate size; the boats down were all fast, and two spare ones on board completely fitted. I begged of the captain to let me take one, with a crew of volunteers, and try my hand. He at last consented, but told me to take care and not get stove, as the boats were all engaged, and could not go after us. As soon as I shouted out "volunteer boats crew to chase whales," there was a rush at the

gangway to get into her; however, the number being made up, I took off my jacket and shoes, and jumped in; it is better to keep on the socks or stockings, as you would not be so liable to slip in the boat than with bare feet; shoes a whaler never takes into a boat.

      I believe no boat's crew ever shoved off from a ship's side in so much haste and confusion: in the first place, she was nearly swamped under the quarter before we got the forward tackle unhooked; secondly, when she did drop astern, no man was in his place except myself, occupying my berth in the bow. At last all was in trim, and off we pulled to a few whales which were amusing themselves on the surface of the water. Now, my crew (whenever I was skipper) were rather noisy, having never controlled them; and on this occasion they exerted their liberty of speech so much, that I was

obliged frequently to sit down and finish my laugh. We were all inexperienced, yet each man gave his advice as to going on the whale; at last, after a short pithy speech from me, they all agreed that get a fish we must, for the honour and glory of it, and that they would do as I should tell them.

      On we went to the nearest whale, and pulled up to it boldly yet carefully, until the nose of the boat nearly touched it, when in I darted both irons with all my force" stern all" — and stern they did quick enough; the fish breached high out of the water, causing such a tremendous splash, that the boat was nearly half filled, and required instant bailing out; this was quickly effected with the boat's bucket. The whale did not, as usual, sound, but after the breach, made off; so we peaked our oars. I took a turn of the line round the loggerhead., to hold on, and off we flew through the bay,

towed away at a rapid rate. There were not more than thirty fathoms of the line out, at last, after coursing over a few miles, it eased its way; we hauled up alongside, and I lanced it boldly for a few minutes, then off again; sometimes, when hauling up, and close to the fish, it would raise the flukes, shake them threateningly at us; then we were obliged to pay out more line to get out of the way.

      This game was playing for upwards of four hours, and we were all greatly fatigued, having no interval of rest, and were beginning to think we would be compelled to cut the line and let all go, when the whale eased its way again. We hauled up with desperation on it, and I got two ,fortunate darts of the lance into it; it died, and turned over in a few minutes without a struggle, being tired out.

      They were nearly all green hands in the

boat, but acted very well. Discipline was now again relaxed, and all hands stood up and gave three hearty cheers. We took the double of the line and passed it round the flukes, and took the whale in tow. We were about three miles to windward of the ship when the whale died, so we "up stick," that is, shipped our mast, made sail, and with the aid of a stiff breeze, brought our great trophy and first whale alongside the ship, when we received three tremendous cheers from the lads on board, which we of course politely answered. This made now the sixth whale alongside — a regular raft of them; and I have pleasure in recording that ours was pronounced the largest. In talking over the matter shortly after, the captain told me — "he kept his eye on us, and that he expected every moment to see the boat, crew, and all sent to Davy's locker, as we were often in range of its flukes, and went on too wildly."

CHAPTER VIII.

      The whales that were killed being disposed of in the usual way, and the rest baying disappeared out of the bay, we left it too, and made sail to the eastward to reach Chatam Island, as it was intended to come to an anchor in smooth water, to break out the hold, and re-cooper our oil, bread, provisions, &c., which could not be done at sea.

      In the course of four days more we made a stretch two or three degrees to the north-

ward, and having captured another whale, ran in for Chatam Island, and brought up under the lee of the western end of it, in smooth and calm water, where the air was completely scented by the smell of mint and other herbs wafted to us by the breeze which swept over the thickly-wooded land. Abreast of the ship there was a fine smooth beach, and inside that a range of small salt water ponds covered with wild fowl, and filled with mullet and other fish; three hundred yards inside those, there was an open space of about two acres, covered only with grass, but surrounded by a dense wood. On this beautiful lawn we erected a large tent, with poles cut from the adjoining forest, and a few boat sails brought from the ship. This was a work of great delight to the ship's company, as it was intended to let half of them remain on shore from four o'clock in the afternoon until six the next morning,

taking night about on shore; this was done in consequence of some indication of scurvy which showed itself amongst the crew, by being some months on salt provisions, and without being on land.

      As the island was uninhabited, and no grog shops or other temptations for the men, they could really enjoy themselves, and otherwise recruit their strength. Only for a feeling of debility that was beginning to • creep through the crew, they were otherwise well, and three or four weeks' stay here would do all. The only thing required to be brought from the ship was biscuit, as every thing else was in abundance on shore. Fine green turtle came in on the beach at night, and with a little row and fun in watching for and turning them, were easily taken; then the wild ducks on the lagoons, and plenty of large doves on the land, were easily knocked • down by a man throwing a

stick among them; the terrapin, or elephant tortoise, of from two to four hundred pounds weight; plenty of fine fish close in to the rocks; whole beds of very high strong mint, with other herbs in great variety; all those, with many others, afforded the men a great treat, particularly when taken by themselves and used on shore.

      There were plenty of large hair seal in all directions on the beaches and rocks, whose skins made mocasins for every one in the ship; and to complete the comforts of this encampment, fine fresh water was obtained by digging down about fourteen feet. All round this end of the island the woods extended to nearly the beach and rocks, and in some instances overhung the water: it was a rich sight. I had been at this island twice before, but had not an opportunity of seeing much of it; indeed, little more than the rocks, beach, and a mile

or so inland. As we were to lay here some time now, and nothing for me to do professionally, either on board or on shore, I determined (having previously arranged with my friend, the captain) to shoulder my gun, and walk right round the island, on an exploring excursion.

      I prepared for it accordingly; I put on light canvas trowsers, a leathern jacket, (which I had on board for the purpose of going through bushes, as it would not tear off me as cloth or duck would,) a pair of strong shoes on, a belt round me to hold my small axe, knife, and ammunition pouch, a leather cap on my head, and canteen for water. As the island was large, and I intended to go right into the interior, I took the precaution of bringing a pocket compass with me.

      Being thus accoutred, with gun in hand, on the fourth morning after our arrival here, I left the encampment at sunrise,

under a volley of three cheers from our men. As I had previously a very good knowledge of the shore around the island, its bays, beaches, rocks, and anchoring places, I now kept inland, and directed my course in a range with the centre of it, the island being very long from east to west, but in breadth, (some places,) from north to south, only a few miles. During the chief part of the first day I had to make my way through a thick wood; which, in some places, I had to proceed circuitously, to avoid the thick net-work formed by a wild vine growing so close, that I could not get through it. Towards sun down, after having accomplished about eight miles under great difficulties, I got into an opener country, with the timber farther apart, and a good deal of grass. A great many terrapin were feeding on it.

      This was a pleasant relief from the dense

wood and rugged ground I passed over already. I chose an elevated spot of land beside a large rock, to encamp for the night. I next cut down with my axe a few branches, and placed them up against it, which formed covering enough in so fine a climate. There was plenty of long grass about, which I pulled up, and shook out on the earth under this temporary hut. This served me well for a bed, and was my general plan of arranging for the night. The preparations were simple, and soon completed. I then killed a small terrapin, made a fire, cooked it on cross sticks, and, with some fresh water I found not far off, made a hearty supper. As the shade from the setting sun 'was making every object around me, and in the distance indistinct, I lay down in my primitive hut, and never enjoyed a more refreshing sleep than I did that night.

      I did not awake until the sun was well up next day; and when I came out of my hut, the whole place all about seemed to be alive with birds of all sorts, doves, canarys, mocking birds, hawks, &c. All were bound to the eastward; and so unacquainted were they with man, that many of them perched for a moment on my shoulders and cap, to rest themselves. Now this passage of birds in the morning, in any particular direction, gives most important intelligence to the man who may be cast on an island like this, without any previous knowledge of it. It tells him at once that, if he only follows the birds, or keeps on after them, he is sure to fall in with that all-important thing — fresh water.

      I have often known men lose themselves through the interior of islands, and be found all but exhausted for the want of water, though there was plenty not far from them.

      This arose from their ignorance of not knowing how to look for it. It woad be long before you could find a native of any of the islands to the westward so much deficient. Land one of them on any uninhabited island, and he knows how to light his fire, where to find water, and, if there are any thing fit for food growing on it.

      Another way to find water is to get up on a hill, or climb a tall tree, and look well round you in the valleys, or low grounds. If you see a patch of forest foliage of a livelier green than the rest, make straight for that, and you are almost sure to see the water. If the ground should be only moist, cut a branch, or pole, flatten the end of it with your axe, and after digging down a little, so as to make a small hole, the water will come up soon.

      Then again, if there is (about two or three hundred yards inside the beach) any

spot of ground lower than the beach, and nearly on a level with the sea, by digging deep enough, the water will be found very fresh; and if there cannot be obtained, by all these means, a supply, there are always, in tropical climates, trees of a soft description, such as the cabbage trees, &c. which, by tapping the stem, or pounding the branches between stones, a quantity of juice may be obtained sufficient to allay thirst for the time, until the water could be hunted for.

      I have known some of our men, on others of these groups of islands, lose themselves, and be absent for five or six days in the bush, both too ignorant and too lazy to find water, support nature, and quench their thirst by killing both terrapin and birds, and thinking their blood fresh; but such are the bounties of Providence, that, in the most torrid climates, (except in

actual sandy deserts,) there is water enough for every living thing on it, if they only knew where to find it.

      Now, on those islands, and particularly the island I am now on, there is an immense number of birds — I mean land birds — (the sea fowl keep to the rocks, beaches, and mangrove bushes close to them.) Those birds cannot exist without water; and consequently there must be enough. Only go quietly along in search of it, and if you cannot fall in with it immediately, cool your mouth with some soft vegetable matter.

      Many would think my solitary excursion in a hot climate, such distances, folly. Indeed so much was that the prevailing idea in our ship, that I could not get even a boy to accompany me. They said it was all a humbug to be tramping about on an uninhabited island from morning till night. As

I differed with them in opinion, I started alone, and felt better pleased afterwards, that I was not encumbered by any one.

      The question may be asked, did I not feel lonely? I say no; I had the fowls of the air, the lovely landscapes in all directions, the rich forest, the park like lands, with abundance of every thing on them, to gaze upon. No, there was nothing of loneliness here for me; all creation appeared in its primitive state; and I delighted in contemplating such a scene — one that had been, perhaps, ever undisturbed by man. I felt enchanted with it — it was nature's own.

      After having enjoyed my first station here, I prepared my morning meal of terrapin, did it ample justice, and without being annoyed by exorbitant hotel charges, I again commenced my march. Along nearly the whole length of the island, from east to west, there are two ranges of hills, some of

them of great altitude; between those in the depth of the gorge, there is one continued valley of about three miles wide, interrupted only by a few irregular hills or swells here and there, only partially timbered, but clothed with luxuriant grass. The sides of the high hills bounding it are covered up to their summits — indeed right across — with timber.

      On the fourth day I got up on the hills forming the northern boundary, and had a look down into this splendid valley. The descent was easy enough, for in five or six hours, with an occasional rest, I managed to to[sic] get into it and on level ground again. Not far from the place I immerged into the valley, there was a curious heap of large and small stones, which looked so artificial as to give the appearance of a quarry which had been worked; with some inconvenience, I examined it, and found at the upper part of

it a large, dark, mysterious entrance to a huge cave, extending apparently away under the mountains. I could not get directly up to it, as the stones were loose, and slid off each other when I stood on them, so I merely contented myself with throwing a few stones far in, but could not hear them alight any where; the only things disturbed were a few large, splendid owls, which I presume were resting somewhere out of the light.

      It appeared to be a solemn looking, unfathomable gulf, through which, no doubt, those immense heaps of stones were discharged at a very remote period, by some volcanic agency. In this valley it is much more sultry than on the outside of the hilly range, as they shaded it from the trade winds, which refreshed all other parts of the island, but the vegetation was most luxuriant; and what crowned all, there was a

large stream of clear water running right through it in easterly direction.

      I was now clear of the sea, inland from either side of the island, about seven or eight miles; there were great quantities of terrapin in this valley, and what I was very agreeably surprised to discover on the island, grazing about near the stream, several groups of reddish coloured goats; they appeared from some cause or other very wild, and dashed off into the bush on seeing me; however, the gun was too quick for them, and I shot one whenever I liked. They must have been left on the island a long time ago, and increased rapidly and unknown to all, for there is not any report of their existence on this island ever made; indeed, they were no fools; they chose the best, most fertile, and unfrequented part for their homes. I have not met with any of them along the coast.

      There were a great many prickly pear trees growing in the elevated mounds in the valley; these fruit had externally the appearance of an immense brown plum, the inside the exact taste of a gooseberry; this was very refreshing to me. There were a great many splendid hawks hovering about; they were frequently some annoyance to me: when I killed either a goat or terrapin for food, they would hover round, screaming and making all sorts of noise, and sometimes seemed to think that I actually came there to butcher for them, for they would light on the ground and hop around me, sometimes would even jump on the carcass, have the impudence to look me straight in the face, and grapple the meat in their claws, and pull for the half with me; matters between us went so, far that I was obliged to provide myself with a long stick, and knock them down as they came too close. They

were immense and powerful birds, more like eagles than hawks. I fired a few shots among them, but they paid no attention to it, did not seem to fear the gun or its effects, and tormented me as much as ever, so that at last I was obliged to compromise matters by killing something and leaving it with them; then when the chief body of them were engaged, I would start off and transact business for myself.

CHAPTER IX.

      About the middle of the valley, my attention was attracted to the foot of one of the hills, where the earth had fallen down, and left exposed to view large black rocks; I went over and examined it, and found them to consist of coal in large quantities, and extending away in under the hills. As I was fatigued, I prepared my encampment for the night, and my meal, and which, to test my discovery, I cooked on a wooden spit before

a fine fire of coal; it quickly ignited, flamed up, and burned after the cheerful manner of Kendal coal. I was greatly pleased With this useful discovery; there were great hills of it, and an immense supply could be here obtained, if there was a sufficient arrangement to convey it to the sea side.

      I traversed this valley from side to side, and was greatly delighted with its natural richness and beauty; yet I did not like it so well, as the other sides of the mountain ranges — it was much more sultry; the landscape, too, confined by the hills, did not afford that great freedom of feeling (particularly to a lone man) that the land along the sea coast did; yet I felt fascination enough to wander through it for seven or eight days, and continue my route along the stream in its centre, occasionally fording it in shallow places.

      At last I came to the easternmost end of

it late one evening, and encamped as usual, intending next day to examine its exit from the valley. At sunrise I was up, and had a most magnificent view of irregular broken hilly and rocky ground. There was a wide chasm between two immense peaked rocks, through which the stream escaped: it passed over a bed of flat stones, so regularly placed as to appear the work of man, in a number of steps like steep stairs, which gave the water here a strange dripping appearance. It was not in sufficient body to, make much. noise in its descent. As those natural stairs were about three hundred yards wide, there were many places to descend with perfect ease, and without being more than ankle deep. I took advantage of this, and a final leave of this solitary region.

      In a few hours I immerged from the curious rocky barrier which shut in the easternmost extremity of the valley and hills

into fine open ground, in full, view of the sea, not more than three miles off, and experienced at once the refreshing coolness of the breeze. I must here mention that the valley I had left was fully a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the hills which bound it from two to four thousand. Consequently I was yet on high ground; but as the woods were open, the view along the coast was cheering. The stream above alluded to scatters itself much by the irregularity of the rocky surface over which it passes, and descends the sloping ground in a number of small streams towards the sea. I journeyed on now, and arrived before sunset at the nearest point of a small bay, and again listened to the wash of the briny element on the beach.

      As the sun was now nearly dipping on the horizon to the westward, I hastened to make arrangements for the night, which I

soon accomplished with grass and branches of trees, at the foot of some rocks a little way inland. I then lighted a good large fire, which I required during the night, as the fresh sea breeze made the temperature of the air much cooler than I felt it in the interior I had lately left.

      I may here mention my usual method of lighting my fire. I collected a good-sized bundle of dry grass, and dry wood; into the grass I flashed some gunpowder, which instantly ignited. I then heaped on the wood, and in a few minutes had what, in some villages at home, might be called a moderate bonfire. During the day, when the sun was well out, I used a burning glass which I had about me, to ignite the powder with, when I did not wish to use my gun for that purpose.

      Having my fire in good trim, I put to it some terrapin meat, which, having made

my evening meal of, being well tired by my day's march, and excitement, I lay down beneath a bright moon, and slept soundly until daylight, when I was awoke by a screaming and fluttering noise hard by. What was this but about a dozen of my old friends, the large hawks, who had taken possession of my spare meat, and had a regular fight, in their own way, for it.

      It was as ludicrous a sight as I ever saw. About five or six of them had hold of it with their claws, and were hitting each other with their wings and beaks, while the rest continued to hop round and round the combatants. At last, they jostled over where my canteen of water stood, and capsized it. Not expecting such visitors, I forgot to put on the stopper and cap. The consequence was, before I could reach it, it had nearly emptied itself. This entertainment lasted about a quarter of an hour,

which highly amused me, though I was put to the inconvenience of going nearly two miles for more water, and something to eat. Having procured it, I returned again to the sea side.

      I had two objects in doing so. I was tired, and wanted to rest my feet for two or three days. My shoes were now nearly in pieces, and only held together by passing straps of goat-skin under the soles, over the uppers, and round my ankles, after the manner of a sandal. This great deficiency could only be supplied by the moccasin; so I had to watch among the rocks, and along the beaches for seal — in doing so where there was water enough close in under the rocks.

      I observed plenty of fish; and having in one of my pockets some twine, and a few hooks, I had now the extreme gratification of changing meat for the most

delicious fish. The way I cooked them was thus: having made a fire, and plenty of hot ashes, I cut the fish into short junks, rolled them up in large leaves, and thrust them into it; in about half an hour they were well done, and I could easily take the body of it out of the skin and scales, as one would a nut from the shell. it afforded me a delightful repast. In one of those angling excursion, I slipped off, the rock into deep water.

      I could swim well, so there was no — fear of drowning; but another danger, which I was well aware of, made me clamber up out of it as quick as possible; this was the vast number of ground sharks which inhabit the sea surrounding those islands, and come close in to the edge of the rocks and beach. As soon as I had taken off my clothes to dry them in the sun, I took a look into the spot where I had fallen in;

then I perceived that I had a providential escape, as a whole shoal of them were moving about, I suppose attracted by my splashing in the water. If I had been five minutes longer in it, or encountered any difficulty in getting up on the rocks, I would have been devoured. I confess I felt so queer after this adventure, that I picked up my clothes and went a little inland; however, it did not deter me from again getting a fish, but it prompted me to use caution.

      The morning of the third day of my stay in this neighbourhood had arrived, and I had seen no seal but a small fur one, whose skin was too thin to be any protection to my feet; it was the hair seal I wanted, and there is a great difference between them; the fur one is seldom larger than a small or middling-sized dog, and skin thin — the hair seal on those islands, and

particularly on this, is frequently as large as a moderate-sized bullock, with skin much thicker, and the hair quite as strong, head and teeth very formidable in both look and reality; but strange to say, a slight blow of a stick on the tip of the nose will prostrate the largest, but if you are unsteady, and miss that vulnerable part, he will always make for the water; if you intercept him, as all sealers do, and he gets hold of you with his teeth, you will get a cranch that will break your bones.

      About noon, while wandering about where I had a view of the beach for some distance, I caught sight of a huge seal waddling up out of the water about a quarter of a mile off. I took my gun and a long pole inside the mangrove bushes which fringed the beach along, and when a-breast of the animal, I could plainly see that he was a gigantic hair seal, apparently sick, moving slowly and in

pain, bellowing out occasionally like a bull. He was rather too formidable to attack rashly, so I patiently watched him for nearly an hour.

      I may here mention, that the seal cannot quickly turn, so you may keep close by his side, and finish him either with a long knife, sharp axe, or heavy pole; but be careful to watch his turning on you. He was evidently very ill, and greatly exhausted, and at last lay down high up on the beach, near the bushes. Now, a sick patient could not have fallen into better hands than a doctor's, so I went stealthily up close to him, and sent two leaden pills from both barrels right through his head; he roused up at this treatment, and, though unconscious of any thing, floundered about, and rolled down the beach so much, that I was afraid of losing him. I now hit him with my two- handed club several times about the head,

which, with a plunge of my knife into his chest, finished the souffle: he was not more than ten or twelve feet from the water edge when he died.

      I had now time to examine my prize: he was an immense fellow, with an unusually thick hide, just what I wanted, and was so anxious about. My mind was now quite at ease; as to my worn-out shoes, I had now laying before me what would afford strong moccasins for a year, if I required them so long. I now saw the cause of his illness he had a large old wound in the left side, and most probably came up on the beach to die, as seals frequently do; he appeared to be as much alone as I was, for there were none others any where in sight.

      With great trouble, and continually sharpening my knife, I managed to cut through the thick hide, and get off as much as was requisite for three or four

pair of moccasins. Underneath there was a thick covering of blubber, which would make a great deal of oil. I next laid the piece of skin over a smooth rock to dry, and rubbed it well with fine sand, which made it as smooth and soft as a glove. After a few hours' exposure to the sun and sand, all the moisture was removed, and it was prepared.

      The manufacture of the mocassin was simple: all I had to do, was to spread out the skin, place my foot upon it, and cut it of an oval shape, about four inches all round from the foot, then place it on a log of wood, and with the point of the knife make a range of holes all round near the edge, then a thong off the hide to reeve through the holes would serve as a drawing-string, and it was complete.

      In putting it on, put the foot on the hairy side, as it is always the inside; then

draw the thongs comfortably tight round the ankle, and make fast. This simple contrivance gives a perfect protection to the foot, and is much more to the purpose than the tight, high-heeled article that my bootmaker or shoemaker could give at home, for believe me, that ranging through woods, and over broken ground and rocks, is quite a different thing from walking on Macadamized roads and flagged footways.

CHAPTER X.

      Having now not only been rested and refreshed, but having provided myself with one pair of stout moccasins on my feet, and as much of the hide as would serve for two or three pair more, I continued my tramp round the easternmost part of the island.

      For nearly four or five miles round I kept near the shore; there was no good earth here within two miles of the sea; all was broken rocks in every variety, old lava, occasionally a small old crater, and where a patch of earth existed, a great

many prickly pear and cabbage trees; in fact, there was every indication of this part of the island giving vent to many volcanoes at a very remote period. There were also on the beaches, and among the rocks, great numbers of seal, and occasionally turtle; but as I did not require them for any purpose, I was loath to disturb their slumbers, and let them alone.

      I now came (after going over about ten miles of rough ground) to a hill, which ranged from the interior down to the sea, and ended in a high bluff; this was covered with grass in some places, and richly timbered in others. My route now lay across this, and at sunset I arrived on the summit of it, which was level for some distance. I was surrounded here by vast numbers of birds, and found a good-sized terrapin. It was too late to venture down the other side, so I encamped for the night, under

the lee of a grove of close trees, and I was particular in making my but both warm and water-tight, with plenty of grass and branches over it, as it was very cold, and commenced raining.

      All surrounding objects became indistinct, and only for the light of a huge fire, I would have been in perfect darkness. About midnight, there was vivid lightning, and the thunder was so loud that it appeared to break on this hill, and brattle close to the ground right over it. I never heard any thing like it before, nor since; the ground felt as if shook by it; the noise and shocks was terrific; my fire was soon put out by the torrents of rain which followed, but my precaution with the but (which was against a tree) kept me quite dry. A little after daylight this all cleared away, but there was such a mist rising from the low grounds, to the westward, that

during the chief part of the day every thing in the distance was obscured, and as the earth was yet very wet, I resolved to remain where I was until the moisture was all cleared off.

      I had a long sea view, but did not observe any vessel any where. I had plenty to eat on the hill, and the rain filled several holes here, so there was water enough. There were strong trade winds, which I felt the cooling effect of, and which told me I now was fairly on the south-east, or weather side of the island. After spending, or rather being weather-bound on this hill for three days, the sun shone out in all its warmth and splendour. The birds all round sang gaily; every thing looked refreshed and cheerful.

      I left my hut, and descended from the eminence I was on into a deep stony ravine, through which a vast body of water

passed down over a precipice about one hundred feet high, and thundered into the sea. I had to cross this some where. Here I could not; so I walked, or rather clambered among stones for about two miles up, and came to a curious pass, where I could get over. The water here was intercepted by a breast work of rocks nearly fifty feet high, the top of which projected greatly. Over this the water curved, and descended in great force into a deep pit, and continued its course.

      This projection of the upper part of the rocks gave the fall such a sweep, as to form a complete tunnel across, with rock on one side, and water on the other. Through this I passed over: it was a grand sight to see the effect of the bright sun on this cascade. The variety of shades caused by it was really strange; old timber, bushes, and fresh trees, torn up by the water, passed

over; and as I looked on the water from the inside, it appeared to be a moving mass of all shades and colours, something like a kaleidoscope on a gigantic scale.

      I have often looked on waterfalls of every kind with delight; but this one I examined, and gazed on in wonder and amazement. I was so fascinated with it and the surrounding scenery, that, after having passed over, or rather through it, I took a view of it from different positions, until I fairly tired of the deafening noise it made.

      Amongst the ricks and hills skirting this ravine, there is iron ore of apparently excellent description; and here again I fell in with coal, which I pronounce to be excellent, having again practically tested it by using it for my fire. There was also beds of sulphur without much impurity among it. I found on the south-east part very pure lead ore in great abundance. Indeed

the whole island, particularly about the hills, seemed to be rich with the ordinarily useful minerals; but as I had quite enough to do to carry my gun, &c., I did not encumber myself with those heavy specimens of mineralogy that fell in my way.

      I was now again on a rich soil, and every thing like fertility around me. About two miles from this last stream I fell in with another, but smaller one, on the other side of which there was a hut. I got easily over, and found this solitary habitation to be one of recent erection. Round it were scattered a number of terrapin and turtle shells, with fish bones, &c. From the situation of this place, I knew it to be the habitation of three men, who had resided in it for nearly a year, and were taken off by Captain Stivers, of the ship Favourite of London, which we fell in with some months previous. I may as well mention here that

I had the pleasure of enjoying Captain Stivers' hospitality on board the Favourite, off those islands, previous to my tour on this one. Another ship, which was short handed, took two of those men from him. The third served on board his ship in the capacity of cook.

      I had a long conversation with him. He appeared to be a silent man, and when spoken to, had a listening frightened look, which I concluded he gained by his residence on the island. The other two, he told me, often rambled away from him for days, on the look out for a passing ship, and, he added, he often felt frightened and lonely, but, withal, was dissatisfied with being again on board, and under restraint. In fact, he said he regretted coming off, or leaving the island. However, it seemed to me that none of those three men had minds calculated for such a situation. Two of

them were always on the look out to get off; the third, now cook of the Favourite, had a look of constant fear, and indeed told me that, for the first six months they were on it, he was startled by every noise or sound, and was afraid to go far from their but; and now, from my examination of it and the adjoining grounds, I was convinced they merely eat, slept, and walked about.

      However, it had an inhabitant in one of the dark corners. Two glaring eyeballs met my view. I was startled at first; but on hearing a peculiar hissing noise, and looking more closely, I saw at once it was nothing more formidable than an immense buzzard, perched on a block of wood, one of the chairs of this establishment. I drove the gentleman out to have a look at him. He was the largest I ever saw; both head and claws were very large, the plumage

beautifully varied. As soon as he came out into the light, he screamed loudly, and flew away into the dark woods.

      There were a great many iguanas on this the south side about the rocks. They were all black, resembling a miniature alligator, but were very timid and nimble, hiding themselves among the rocks on the least noise of my approach. I saw none of them more than a foot long. They were perfectly harmless, and merely minded their own business, whatever it was. Here and there, a little inland, I discovered a number of spas, all strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur.

      This being the weather side of the island, the surf beat heavily on the rocks, and scattered the water occasionally far in over them. Wherever there were basins, or hollow places on the rocks or beach, there were large quantities of salt, caused by the strong sun

evaporating the sea water, periodically thrown up so far, and into them.

      All along this route the level land extends from the sea away up to the foot of the high mountains, a distance of from three to six or seven miles. It was nearly all good, some places thickly timbered, in others, acres of grass without a tree. I wended my way along leisurely for some days, sometimes going inland, at others near the sea side.

CHAPTER XI.

      When I was better than half way down the weather side, at about four miles inland, I came suddenly on a space of ground, which was partially clear, and where a few trees lay, that had evidently a few years ago been cut down by some one. On further entering this space, there were mustard pumpkins, melons, Indian corn, sweet potatoes, and tobacco, all growing indiscriminately, and in a very wild state — tall weeds,

and suckers of young trees, starting up here and there from the roots of the old ones.

      In looking about, I saw what was once a spade, but the blade of which now was only rust, and fell in pieces when I touched it with my foot. Near this; in a hollow, was a well with water enough, but overgrown, and covered with weeds. It was regularly built round with stone. I continued my search over this once well-cared plantation, until I came to the highest, or upper part of the clearing, which was walled along for several hundred yards by solid rock. Up near this, almost concealed by a clump of trees, and nearly overgrown with wild vine, I discovered a house, or rather hut, on a comfortable scale. There was no sound of human voice here — all was still.

      I knew, from the indications about, that it was long since the place had been attended to. The net-work of vines round it was so

thick and close, that I had to make an opening through it with my axe. On entering this wild barrier, I came at once on the house, which was built against the rock with a shed roof thatched — the sides and front merely posts of wood, interlaced by vine branches, and covered over with mud. The whole was in a falling state; there was only a doorway into it, but no door.

      I now with strange feelings entered the door; there was ample light through this ruin to see all. It was a melancholy sight, and discovery to me. In the centre of the floor, near a rude table, lay the skeleton of a man, only partially concealed by what had once been a covering of skins; on my touching it, it fell in powder; the bones though in apposition, were separated by the slightest touch. On one side were an old boiling pot and frying-pan, wood, axe, &c., all in rust, a tobacco-box, with a rudely manufactured

pipe, on the table, an old worn-out and rust-eaten carabine and cutlass in the corner; there was a shelf which had once served for a bed, with seal skins on it. I searched minutely but could not find either paper or any other thing that could give the least information as to the name, or who this unfortunate recluse was.

      It was a dismal scene. I came out and gazed on this but for some time; a thought struck me, and I proceeded to execute it. All was a ruin, and now falling; the only thing I could now do for this remnant of humanity was to bury it; the only way I could even do that, was to cover it with the ruins; a few blows of a heavy stone against the posts laid all prostrate, and shut out the sight for ever.

      Whilst in those seas I made many inquiries from captains and others frequenting those islands, about this solitary man, but no

one knew or had heard any thing about him. He must have been dead for many years, from the state of the skeleton, the hut, and long-neglected plantations. I left the grounds without touching any thing, with a heavy heart, and could not eat a bit until I was miles away from it. A few days more brought me to the spot at the west end of the island, where our crew had encamped.

      Every remarkable circumstance occurring either on board those ships or on shore with the crew, is generally begun or ended with a cheer. This species of amusement and general uproar is seldom prevented, as it is one of the means of keeping up the spirits of the men on long voyages. I certainly expected on entering the encampment to be received as I departed on my tour of exploration, with three hearty cheers, but picture my feelings when there was neither man, or boy, or ship, to receive me — all gone; the

tent was still standing. What can this all mean?

      After the first burst of consternation was over, I went up to the tent and saw a pole stuck in the ground in its front, with a clear glass bottle attached to the end of it, and a slip of paper inside. Now for the explanation, said I, and instantly broke the bottle, picked up the paper, and read as follows: —

      "There has been a flaw in the chain cable — it has parted; the ship's adrift, leaving her anchor and some of the chain behind; there is no wind, the current strong and setting her of to the N.W. At the back of the tent, under some brushwood, you'll find something I brought on shore for you. As soon as we get a breeze again, I will beat up for you and the anchor,;

stay where you are until we come up. All hands on board have been well since you left. The current has got a fast hold of the ship, and we have now to pull five or six miles after her. In haste.

      This hurriedly-written paper at once eased my mind, and explained all. I felt no regret at resting myself some days longer on this delightful spot. I now went behind the tent, and lifted off the brushwood, and brought forth the following articles: a frying-pan, a small canister of gunpowder, a bag of duck shot, a bag of biscuit, and a bundle containing two shirts, a jacket, duck trowsers, and a pair of shoes. This was now to me as pleasing a discovery as any I had made on the island. I at once took off my now well-worn leather-jacket

or rather frock and cap. As to the trowsers, they had no legs, and were otherwise gone several days ago.

      This change of clothing was most refreshing; and after lighting a fire, cooking some fish which I caught off the rocks, and otherwise enjoying myself, I went into the tent, where a hammock was left slinging, and at sun down fell into a sound sleep, until the song of the birds around told me to turn out next morning.

      Every day now I amused myself shooting, fishing, and sealing, but did not go any great distance from the anchorage — in fact, seldom out of sight of it. There was plenty of salt among the rocks close to; and I used it to salt a number of rock cod-fish, which I had well cured, and dried on the rocks before the ship arrived. The frying-pan afforded me also an amusing pastime. 1

      I also made a small raft, on which I went

about through the Lagoon, spearing mullet with a long stick, the end of which I hardened in the fire, and well pointed it with my knife. It was on the fourteenth day after my arrival on this spot, that the ship, with a strong breeze, hove in sight, and soon came to an anchor.

      Two boats were instantly lowered, and I had the gratification of being heartily shaken by the hand by the captain and others of the crew who came on shore with him. Although it always afforded me great delight in seeing a change of scenery, and exploring unknown places, I now felt infinitely more in again hearing the voices of my ship-mates. My large pile of salted dried fish was valued highly, and sent on board.

      There was much work in dragging after the lost chain, to bring the end to the surface; and when that was accomplished, we

      soon got the anchor up to the bows. In two days more we left this anchorage, and stood away towards the north-east in on the coast towards California.

      I will not here state the particulars of our visits to many cities and towns on the coast of North and South America, but merely say that, after some months, we returned, and on our way to the westward, came to an anchor again on James's Island, on the north-western side of which there is a fine harbour, where a whole fleet might lay in perfect security. The beach can be easily landed on at all times by boats.

      This island is very mountainous and irregular, nearly covered with wood and grass. There are some curious stony ravines and caves all through it; yet there are amongst the high land some level places, where the earth is good, thinly timbered, and parklike, and forms a very pleasing landscape.

Here, as at others of the Gallapagos group, there is plenty of terrapin, turtle, fish, and both land and sea fowl. The iguanas are here very large, and of a red colour. In particular spots they burrow into the earth like rabbits, and live together in great numbers. They ascend and descend the trees very quickly; and a number of them among the bushes has a strange appearance at a distance. We cooked one of them to try what sort it was; but, from its extreme toughness, we could not eat it.

      This island inland is by no means deficient in water, and on the larboard hand of the anchorage, at the foot of a deep stony ravine that is walled in on either sides by great rocks, is a fine spring of pure water. There is another to the right of where the ship lay, which deserves particular notice.

      There is a point of land extending out, and forming one side of the bay or harbour.

In search of the water, you must land on this; and by travelling about one mile inland up the gradual ascent leading from the point, over ground covered by flat freestone, indeed looking as if it was flagged purposely, you will find the small birds more numerous, and the earth more wet. By following up this, you will arrive at the spring, which is like a square tank, and has been originally chiselled out of the solid rock. It is said the Buccaniers of old much frequented these islands, and particularly this one, on which I found yet remaining remnants of their remote visit, such as pieces of broken pottery, Spanish stone jars, broken and rusted swords, handles, portions of daggers, knives, &c.

      It is no wonder they so much frequented these islands, as they found a calm and safe retreat for them to divide their spoils, and refresh themselves at their ease. One day,

as the captain and I were amusing ourselves on the beach, we were agreeably surprised to see our friend "Johnston," whom I have before mentioned as being so long resident on Charles's Island, as clean in his person and healthy looking as ever. He had been in on the coast to try if he could get any satisfaction for Vilamil's treatment of him on Charles's Island; but the law on the coast not being very equitable, he made nothing of it, and returned to this island in a small schooner that was conveying a parcel of transports to Vilamil's island.

      On arrival here he was landed, and five of the black transports with him, as the vessel was both leaky, crowded, and short of provisions. Johnston still vowed vengeance against his old oppressor, if ever he should fall in with him. During our stay, he lived on board our ship, and every day was my guide through the island. It

was he who showed me where the water was. I felt great pleasure in his society. He is a very interesting and amiable man. I asked him why he did not prefer Chatam Island, from its greater size and fertility. He told me because this island was more frequented by ships, and he could more constantly obtain whatever he required from them in exchange for seal-skins, vegetables, &c.

      He had not been long on the island now; he had not as yet erected even a hut, but slept in a cavity under a rock, at the foot of the stony ravine I have described, close to the spring. With our assistance he was now desirous of changing his quarters. He had a raft of wood laying in a small bay, a short distance from the one we were anchored in; we brought round the boats, and towed it off for him to the point of land I have mentioned as leading to the other spring, close

to which he intended to put up his house. Our men cheerfully took the raft asunder, and brought it all on shore for him. He seemed very thankful for our help and good wishes, and we then took farewell of him. As we pulled towards the ship, I could see him standing on the rocks, watching our boats until we came alongside; this was the the[sic] last time I saw this adventurous man.

      One of the Spaniards shipped on board as an ordinary seaman, in order to get away from the island — one Johnston had with him; the rest were to remain at the cave and spring which he left. After having procured about one hundred and fifty terrapin of large size, a good deal of hard fire-wood, and having a good run on shore for about a fortnight, shooting goats, sealing, &c., we got under weigh and stood to the westward.

      The Gallapagos Islands have been termed

barren, and some even said they were scarcely habitable, that there was no fresh water to be had on them, &c. Now the general visiters to those islands, it is quite evident, never went far into the interior; they were generally seafaring men, who do not themselves like walking about, particularly where there are no inhabitants, and consequently what they call no fin. Again, there exists generally here either very broken ground, or a thick wood, with a great deal of underbrush some distance in from the beach, which requires patience and perseverance to get through; indeed few sailors would take the trouble to penetrate it.

      However, this obstacle once surmounted, the natural beauty and fertility of these islands is at once brought before the eyes; the mineralogist or botanist might feast himself here, and have no fear of the want of food either; indeed, the greatest surprise I ex-

perienced was, that they were not colonized and settled upon long before this. They all have fine harbours and smooth water, with very little rise or fall of tide; any sized vessel can go in and out at any time, day or night. As for water, there is plenty of it to be found on them.

      There are very few that ever took the trouble, or enjoyed the pleasure of rambling over them, so much as I have done. During our repeated visits I made myself thoroughly acquainted with their capabilities; and the only wish I then had was, that they were regularly taken possession of by England. If ever there is effected a passage across the Isthmus of Darien, this would make a fine station for steamers on their way westerly: they here could refresh, refit, repair, or get any quantity of coal they wanted, certainly at Chatam Island, and at others also.

      I look upon these islands to be of great

political importance, from their position; whoever ultimately lays hold of them will certainly obtain an important post. Both those islands, California and the passage across the isthmus ought to belong to England; she could make better use of them than any other nation, from her immense and enterprizing maritime power.

      California I also know well; it is rich in the extreme, and if England had it, she could dispose of some of her superabundant population to great advantage, and have a splendid country beside; but the isthmus is the pass to all, and a passage could be effected across it that would well repay any purchase or outlay for the purpose. It is to be regretted that England did not take possession of Tahiti, and another fine steam station might have been secured on the way to our Australian and New Zealand settlements.

      However there are many other fine islands westerly which I will speak of hereafter, that possess all the accommodation required, as to harbours and other capabilities; for instance, the Tonga Islands, New Caledonia, &c.

CHAPTER XII.

      In working our way westerly from those islands, we did so leisurely, in what is termed tacking from the equator, as high as the latitude of 10° south. During this cruise we fell in with and captured some sperm whales, and spoke a great many American ships which were cruising after whale in this their favourite ground; the water all along exceeding smooth, with here and there strong currents; vast shoals of bonitos, albicore, and many dolphin, sur-

rounded and accompanied the ship all the time. I had daily amusement with them; and we accordingly eat fresh fish until we were tired of them; some of the albicore we caught were from three to four hundred pounds weight.

      I shall not trifle with the reader by a relation of the trivial occurrences on board our ship, but merely say that after a four months' cruize, the Marquesas Islands were in sight, and we steered for the southermost island. We made the island of Magdalena, or as it is called by the natives, "Fetuiva," early in the day, and stood close in, for the purpose of trading with the natives for hogs, fruit, and vegetables.

      When about three miles off the land, a fleet of canoes came off to the ship with the interpreter, a native who had been some time on board a ship, and could speak English tolerably well. He was accompa-

nied by the chief of the tribe who resided in the valley abreast of where the ship lay. It may not be out of place here to remark, that on account of the treachery of the natives, all captains of ships take the precaution of first having one or two of the head chiefs on board before the boats go in to trade, to keep them as hostages for the boat's security; even then, and with all this precaution, the boats never land, but anchor close together about half a mile, or a mile clear of the beach, and then doubly securing them by passing oars across from one to the other, to prevent the natives from capsizing them, which they often do, for the sake of the article of trading they may contain, which they afterwards easily obtain by diving for, and making off with it in the confusion.

      Now commences the trading, the most bewilderingly wild scene that can be wit-

nessed. The articles for barter usually are pieces of iron, pieces of large iron hoop, gunpowder, and a very cheap description of ship's musket. The hogs are brought alongside the boat containing the interpreter; he is told to say what will be given for it; then the purchase having been made, the hog, being well fastened both in legs and mouth, is put into one of the boats, and so on with all until they have their respective loads. Some boats will be loaded with vegetables, such as bananas, plantain, sweet potatoes, and plenty of cocoa nuts; of the last there is an immense stock, for the supply of the hogs on board.

      The scene is a very noisy one; the jabber of the natives in the canoes trading, the men in the boats shouting directions to each other, the water all round literally covered with women, and children swimming about — for at the Marquesas, at the time of my

visit, the canoes were taboed from the women; they were not allowed to enter them; so that when they chose to gratify their curiosity, they were always obliged to swim for it; but that appeared to be no inconvenience to them, for they would swim, and appear to enjoy themselves in the water for hours together.

      Another source of noise is on shore; the whole range of rocks, or beach abreast of the boats covered with men, women, and children, chanting a song, and shouting whenever the smallest article of trade reached them. The scene is certainly a very exciting one. The boats being loaded, all pull off to the ship, and when all are discharged in-board, are hoisted up for the night, the chiefs remaining on board, and the same scene to be repeated the next day, until whatever is required is obtained. During those excursions, the crews of the

boats obtained many curiosities, such as head-dresses, spears, clubs, &c.

      The canoes are long and narrow, yet not likely to be easily upset by any one that has had the slightest experience in their management in the surf or smooth water. Any liability to capsize is counteracted by the out-rigger that all the Marquesan canoes have attached to them. This consists of a good thick spar of very light floating wood, about the circumference of a man's thigh, proportioned to the length of the boat to which it is to be attached. Into this there are forked sticks inserted, and lashed firmly with a very strong cordage made from the fibrous part of the cocoa-nut. Then there are stretchers extending from these forks to the gunwale of the canoe, also well secured, which keeps the out-rigger firmly in its place in the water, at a distance of two or three feet from the canoe itself.

      The fore and after part of this novel boat is merely a projecting stage, on which a native will balance himself standing, either giving directions, or steering with a long paddle. The aspect of a well-tatooed native thus situated, or thus employed, is both bold and graceful, in the extreme. An idea may be formed of the strength of the canoe and its appurtenances, when I state that, with apparently perfect ease and coolness, they will drive it through a surf in which nothing else could be managed or live in. The forked sticks I speak of connected with the out-rigger, also serve another purpose, and that is, a rest or crutch for the fishing-rods, when they go out on such excursions.

      Those fishing-rods are long bamboo cane, of from fifteen to twenty feet, light and tapering. About three or four feet from the butt a handle is well lashed on with

cocoa-nut fibre sinnet. This gives the rod a good balance in the hand, and makes it commandingly manageable. All the lines for any purpose at those islands, are made of the stuff already stated. The lines for the fishing-rods are small, and very strong; the hook consists of an imitation of a flying fish, made of pearl shell, about the breadth and length of a penknife handle. A piece of hook made of bone (without barb) is lashed to this, crossed by a few hog's bristles.

      This is played in the water, so as to imitate the splashing or jumping of a flying fish. At this the abicore and bonitas, dolphin, &c. greedily jump, and with a spring of the rod are jerked in-board. They are then knocked on the head with a short stick, to keep them from jumping out of the shallow canoe.

      The reader will naturally say the sea is

a large place, and a canoe may be out long unsuccessfully, not knowing where to go to find fish. Now such is not the case; the chief part of the men are all fishermen, and expert ones too. There are always some of them strolling about the rocks or beach, and looking seaward. If any of them observes a large flock of gulls, or other sea fowl hovering over a particular spot, then there is sure to be a shoal of fish — the eatable fish in those latitudes being much on the surface of the water.

      Those who first observe this indication of fish, either sounds a conch shell, or passes the word; and immediately there is life and animation all round. The women commence singing — the men shouting and laughing with each other — canoes launching into the water — boys running with fishing gear, &c. All being ready, and the fishermen in their respective canoes, they dart

through the surf; and paddle away with a well-practised arm. There is always one standing on the stern of the canoe, steering in the required direction.

      On these excursions they have a very wild appearance. The hair, which is usually tied up with care on the top of the head, and ornamented, is cast loose, and covers the head and shoulders, altering the appearance of the man completely. The body is, in other respects, perfectly naked.

      In approaching the fish they observe silence, each canoe taking an altered course to paddle in. On their separating, they have plenty of room, as those shoals of fish often extend to two or three miles in breadth. The quick plunging of the fish, the screaming of the sea fowl over head, the graceful though wild movements of the natives, afford a scene that few who

have not witnessed, can form an idea of that would do it justice.

      On the return of the fishermen from their expedition, another noisy proceeding takes place. As the canoes touch the beach, there is shouting, jumping, singing, with clapping of hands; and a friendly and fair division of the fish ends the business. At those islands they also use nets, some of several fathoms long, others small hand-nets, fitted with a hoop.

      The fisherman, in this case, must dive well down, close to the coral rocks, the net in one hand, and a stick about two feet long in the other. He dives, and applies the net to any hole or opening in the coral, and with the stick he pokes the fish from behind into it. There are two dangers attending this mode: one is the close vicinity, or unexpected dash of a shark at the man; the other is that, if

he has not his long, bushy hair well secured, it might get loose, and hold him fast to the coral, the branches of which are here very strong.

      I saw an occurrence of this kind while on a fishing excursion with natives. As fine a young man as I ever saw went down in this manner, and while using his stick and net, his hair got loose, and became entangled. He apparently used cool but powerful exertion to disengage himself from the rocks. Another man dived to assist him; by some manoeuvring, they both got to the surface and into the canoe; the first-mentioned with about four pounds weight of coral fast to his hair, which broke off at last, and both livid in the face, and blood oozing out of ears, mouth, and nose. If any man, not possessing the coolness and presence of mind of these natives, had made use of violent and useless exertion,

he would have been certainly drowned, for he could not with impunity remain so long under water as was necessary to extricate himself.

      The scenery in the entire of the Marquesan group of islands is very similar. They all appear high, and almost precipitous towards the centre; but on coming close in to the land, and taking long excursions through the country, if we may so term it, the scene entirely alters, and one of great irregular beauty and grandeur meets the eye in all directions. The inhabitants in general live scattered about in the low lands or rich valleys — and rich they are beyond anything. Those who have not visited a tropical country cannot form a correct idea of it. Wherever you see a rock or precipice — and they well deserve the name, if irregularity, height, and nakedness, can give it to them; their

base and surrounding lowland is covered deeply with a never-ceasing, richly-vegetable mould, throwing up the finest fruit trees and other large timber; and where the woods are not very dense, the richest grass prevails.

      All those valleys have streams, sometimes of considerable extent, but always of great beauty, passing through them, forming in their course many rich and beautiful cascades. Those valleys are mostly skirted with high hills, covered to their summits with a lightish green vegetation. This coloured appearance arises from the great quantities of deep soft moss, and acres upon acres of small reeds, which grow as high as eight or ten feet, and form good cover often for small war parties or scouts, who frequently set the whole on fire to stop, even for a time, the advance of a powerful enemy, as well as to give the warn-

ing that those great fires convey to their friends.

      The chief productions of those beautiful lowlands, which Providence throws in the way of the native, with scarcely any effort from himself, except to gather, are bread fruit, cocoa-nut, bananas, plantain, yam, sweet potatoes, tobacco, with a great variety of the smaller vegetables of excellent quality.

      Then there are plenty of hogs, poultry, and fish, which last afford both amusement and food. The smaller birds, of varied and handsome plumage, are numerous.

CHAPTER XIII.

      The houses are generally placed close to trees, which afford an agreeable shade. You may term them a longitudinal section of a single house, with a shed roof, the back, or main wall always close, the front one a mere partition, but low. The thatch consists of bread fruit, or cocoa-nut leaves, closely and thickly put on. The inside of the walls is generally covered with a close matting.

      Two long sticks, or spars run the whole length of the house near the back wall, about six feet apart from each other — the intervening space covered deeply with either leaves or grass, and a fine mat over it. This is the bed for the whole household, and a very capacious one it is, considering their arrangements for lying on it. The head rests over one spar, the back of the neck supported by it. The feet, or ankles are on the other. It is a curious sight to observe from under the mat fifteen or twenty heads — sometimes more, sometimes less — along one spar, and double the number of feet and legs, according to their length, clear of the mat, along the other. After all, it is not a disagreeable arrangement. The bed is certainly soft, except the pillow part of it.

      In this state they will lie, talking and singing over affairs, until they fall asleep.

The part of the house, or earthen floor in front of this sleeping contrivance, is used for domestic purposes — eating, mat-making, singing, and various other amusement.

      The amusements of the natives are not confined to their house: they range through the valleys on excursions of pleasure. They have also their tahooa, or theatre, where they assemble, on particular occasions, from all directions, to vie with each other in the dance and song, and have, of course, always plenty of fruit, roast pig, &c. with them. Those places of resort deserve some description.

      The situation generally chosen for them is some level spot of either rock or earth in the neighbourhood of some of those romantic streams, and often near a waterfall, surrounded by trees of rich foliage, the adjoining hills forming a curtain of green round it. In the centre of this is an in-

closed portion of ground, covered by a smooth and varied-coloured pavement. The dancers perform on this. The surrounding bank is covered with spectators and their refreshments. The usual music is a drum, beaten by the flat of the hand, singing, and clapping of hands, which last closely resembles an expression of feeling that takes place at some of the political meetings in Great Britain and Ireland, well known by the name of "Kentish Fire." The dancing of the natives being peculiar, and requiring peculiar time with the music, nothing else but home sound of this description would suit them.

      The dancers on those occasions take great pains to decorate themselves, some of their skins being fairer than others, but all beautifully tatooed, are coated over with cocoa-nut oil, tinged yellow with turmeric, which grows in abundance on their lands;

the hair is well oiled, and tied up with plenty of ornaments, such as feathers, &c., the head being encircled with a band made of -cocoa-nut sinnet, having oval pieces of pearl shell attached all round it; in the ears are pieces of white down, or bone or shell ear-rings, well polished and carved, (by-the-by, I have often seen an English tobacco- pipe used as an ear ornament, with the shank of course down,) when the dancers enter the arena.

      Their covering is only a small piece of native cloth, either round the waist or over the shoulders; as the excitement of the dance increases, even this disappears, or is flung wildly to the winds, and then you see neither a black nor a white man, but (from the turmeric) a golden yellow one, perfectly naked, in all the wildness and frenzy of the heathen dance.

      They tire — others supply their places, and

thus they keep going for hours; their actions are all of the most vile that can be either invented, or thought of; no pen can or ought to describe it; a veil ought to be cast cover it, only to be lifted to disclose to the eyes of the sceptic, the downright necessity for the presence of the missionary to throw the light of Christianity on the heathen mind, and have such scenes for ever obliterated from the thoughts of the Marquesan, as well as they have succeeded elsewhere.

      I have seen several heathenish dances at other islands in the Pacific, but never witnessed so vagabond an exhibition as at the Marquesas: the New Zealander will excite his passions up for the fury of battle, which may be called his amusement, and you will see something demoniacally fierce; but you will not witness the low, unmanly, lascivious actions of the Marquesan. They have fine forms, and minds quick and clear enough to

receive instruction, and retain it, and act upon it, if it was sent to them through the proper channel — the missionary.

      But, unfortunately, the worst possible example is often shown them by the loose conduct of the crews of ships which occasionally visit them. Some ships go there for wood, water, and other refreshment. As soon as ever the anchor is down, if the ship is not a taboo, or restricted one, she will be at once boarded, not by a few, but hundreds of women, who will not go on shore without being hunted overboard.

      Well, if the commander of the ship is ever so well S inclined for good, the men will often knock off and do no work; in this case the captain is in a distant sea, has no power to assist him in keeping rigid discipline on board, and has no other alternative but to submit, and get off as quick as he can; but the reason I am so explicit is

this, that there are too many ships whose crews, from the captain to the cook, relax all discipline (as to morality) at other places as well as the Marquesas, and often in a few days will undo the anxious, unwearied, and zealous work of the missionary for months.

      In fact such conduct is not sufficiently exposed: after a long voyage the men and officers all separate, and except by an isolated fireside conversation, you can never hear of a ship's crews doings while they are in those distant regions.

      That those Marquesan Islands are not only not barren, but decidedly fertile, no man can doubt, who has ever seen the healthy appearance of the natives, or has been living on shore with them as I have, and ranged through the interior.

      I am aware of some having made that statement, but it must have so happened that the hostility of the natives to them,

for some act of their own, (not an unusual occurrence,) prevented their going out of sight of their ship or boats, or at all visiting the country. Another reason is, that if any dishonest or bad act occurs in trading with the natives for supplies, it renders them, as a matter of course, hostile and unfriendly, and they will withhold the necessaries that the ship goes in for.

      I have often known the mouth of the bays or beach so tabooed, that the men from certain ships dare not land to fill their water-casks. After this, a ship may as well get underweigh at once, and go some where else. Then they leave, with a report that either the hostility of the natives, or the barrenness of the island, will afford them nothing.

      There is always nothing said of the cause of angry feeling on the part of the islanders. I have known also ships go into the

islands, get a supply of one or two hundred hogs, with vegetables, &c., all the time of trading the ship lying off and on; and when the last boat came alongside, hoist her up, crowd on all sail, and the chiefs who came for their payment in powder, muskets, &c., hunted over the side, and made even swim to the nearest land or canoe that kept near the ship.

      Now what is the consequence of all this? The next vessel which arrives belonging to the same nation, often gets their boats cut off, and the crews killed, and generally eaten, from the feeling of revenge for former insult and injury — they, of course, trading with more honesty and confidence, and placing themselves more incautiously in the power of the natives.

      That these islanders are cannibals is most certain. They deny it to many visitors; but when you remain on shore with them,

it soon comes out, for in excursions even a mile or two inland, if you go into any of the houses, you cannot fail to observe human bones that very recently were in the oven. They then will tell you it was an enemy, and not improbably exhibit to you some other part of the body not yet touched. They never eat a friend, or a body which has died of disease; but always the fallen enemy is sure to be so served, if they can get hold of him. In fight, whenever a man falls, there is a rush of his friends to save the body, dead or alive, from the enemy for the trophy.

      And if the man should not be already dead, both he, and perhaps several others, may be knocked on the head in the fight that ensues. I have witnessed several of their battles, and it appears to be the first object to shoot down, or otherwise kill a man. Then, where he falls instantly be-

comes the great nucleus for close combat with spears, slings, and clubs. Then a similar cause at another point causes a change of position, particularly if a chief of consequence falls; and so on, until a sweeping rush puts to flight one or other of the parties.

      Though they have many muskets among them, yet they are of a bad description — a cheap kind, which they receive in exchange for refreshments from shipping. They scarcely ever take steady aim; of course the ball has a very random course; and as they are not expert at re-loading, the gun becomes worse than useless in close fight; consequently, it is laid aside before they close.

      There is scarcely an island in the Pacific of any note, on which there are not some Europeans or Americans residing with the natives, and living with them, and after

their fashion, in every respect — dress, tatoo, and all. Those, in war times, are considered a great acquisition, from their method in using the gun, and the cool, deliberate aim they take. The natives at the Marquesas, and at other places, never wish them to join in close combat, but keep them on the flanks, where they can act quietly according to their judgment. This murdering assistance the natives always expect from those who reside with them; which, if they freely give, the native will show them every kindness in the extreme, and at once give them high rank as chiefs: but if, from principle or cowardice, they refuse, they ought to leave the island the first opportunity, as they will not get any respect, their lives not be safe, and the smallest child that can speak will sing out after them every where — "Kilkino," or "coro motake," either

of which expressions signify "bad," or "no good."

      Having been several times at those islands, and very much on shore, I picked up the language pretty quickly, and was greatly assisted by some natives we had on board for months. I also became tolerably well acquainted with their method of expression by signs; and this is a thing to be particularly observed by strangers, or interpreters, as it is often by those silent movements of limbs and features that the most treacherous plans are laid. Being thus enabled to speak myself, and understanding them well, I was always quite at home with them.

      One day we made the large island of Hivooa, or Santa Dominica, and as I intended to be on shore as long as the ship remained either at or about the island, or

adjoining ones, I went off with the first boat, which was to bring the head chief, or the king to the ship.

      This is a dangerous island; therefore, the boats always keep well off. We got his majesty, or deputy, (a fine-looking man,) into the boat; and having explained to them the nature of my profession and rank on board, together with my intention of remaining on shore, a chief who was in the king's canoe immediately saluted me in the usual manner, by joining noses, and exchanging names. This brought me directly under his protection. With gun in hand, and a good pouch full of ammunition, I got into the canoe, and landed. I was welcomed by a considerable crowd of all ages and sexes, singing and clapping hands.

      I left ship and boats to manage their trading, and marched off with the chief

"Toomova," accompanied by two or three warriors in full dress. We passed on through a luxuriant valley, and by a "toopoopau," or dead-house, and at a distance of about three miles from the landing-place to an eminence, we arrived at his house, which was surrounded by several others. We at once lay down to rest ourselves, and had an excellent refresh of roast pig, fish, yams, &c. A delightful small, clear stream gurgled not ten feet from the door, or front of the house, which gave the place a refreshing coolness.

      In strolling about one mile further up, four days after, I discovered what gave my thoughts a new turn. This was an extensive defence, or breast-work, recently repaired, with a warrior lurking here and there behind it, evidently as sentinels, or scouts, watching the manoeuvres of some party in the distance. I saw at

once they were then at war, and that I was awkwardly circumstanced.

      I looked round me; I was far from the sea, and certainly not far from those people's enemy. I looked at "Toomova." He read my mind at once, and, with a triumphant laugh, spoke the only English he knew — "Very good man you," pointing significantly to my double-barrelled gun. He did not inform me before of their being at war; but now exhibited unfeigned delight at having, as he thought, an ally so well prepared.

      I told him I had nothing to do with their wars, but merely brought the gun for my own amusement, and would go away to the landing-place, as I did not wish to kill any one. He at once told me I could not get away, as the scouts would prevent me, and that he would take every care of me; at the same time added, I would have to shoot,

for the enemy was large, and would come close up to them in a day or two.

      He then examined my gun, talked of it to others, and all seemed curious to know why the barrels should not be smooth. It was the first rifle they had seen, and I explained it to them. He then begged of me to shoot at something. So I took from one of them a pearl shell ornament about the size of a saucer, placed it up in a tree, stepped out about two hundred yards, called Toomova over to try a shot first with his gun, which was a long fuzee. He laughed at me, and at the idea of hitting it at all, and beckoned me to fire.

      As this was innocent amusement, I determined to do justice to the gun, took a steady aim, and broke the pearl shell to pieces. He said it was all chance, and put up another mark, for the other barrel. I fired again with the same result. They ex-

pressed at once the most extravagant joy, and shook their spears in the direction of the enemy.

      After having a walk round the defence, and a few words with the scouts, we came down again to the first village. As I found myself now fairly doomed to take a part in the war, I was anxious to know the cause and justness of their part in it. The large house we were in was nearly filled with people, all crowding to shelter from the storm of wind and rain that had already burst over the valley. In the presence of so many, I knew I would hear the truth; so I asked Toomova what was the cause of the present war. His speech and manner made such an impression on me, that I committed it to paper in his own words. He lost all his levity instantly, and stood up with every muscle in his body apparently twitching.

      "You ask me, why we go to war? I say, cause enough. Six moons ago I had old woman, mother, and laughing young child; they were there (pointing to a house further down). Plenty of fish came in to our bay, and nearly all the men went out in the canoes after them; shortly after landing to get home, we heard all the women scream up the valley; we made a rush up, but we were too late; the house was empty, the old woman and child carried off, with six others. We crossed the defence and chased them a long way, but too late — they were too far away; we went to war then, and every day since killed many and lost many, but not yet done. Our enemy numbers three times us; they often tear in on us to eat up our food, and eat us — is not that cause for war?" His voice and appearance at this time were terrific; and he shouted to a man near him for a bundle with a knot round it,

which lay in a corner; he tore it open, and tossed on the ground before him five human skulls, with other bones. He then continued frantically — "Enemies I killed myself; but not enough for child yet."

      He betrayed such depth of feeling for his loss, that (demon in look though he then was) I pitied him, and went over and sat beside him. This speech was followed by a deep and solemn funeral chant, the men keeping time with their hands or clubs.

      The storm continued to rage on for two days longer, yet the scouts were regularly relieved. On the day after the scene I have just described, we were seated round the food, when in walked the chief whom we sent on board, and after he shook the rain from him, he told us the ship could not stop, it blew too hard, but would go to another island and be back soon. This was rather unexpected intelligence — for me at least; but

as for the rest, they were quite pleased at the idea that I might be with them always. He also told us he got a few muskets and plenty of powder from the ship, which was certainly a great matter for them in their present circumstances.

      The storm that blew so fiercely over the island, in two or three days more gradually abated, and when the strong sun shone out, there arose from the rich earth of the valley a dense fog, which slowly, but after a little, went off, leaving all dry again; then the great fertility of this place appeared in all its beauty. The frequent invasions of their numerous and hostile neighbours had destroyed a great number of their bread-fruit and other trees, yet there was an abundance of every thing for treble the population.

      As the weather was now again fine and dry, the enemy were sure to be on the move, and required close watching. A

council of war was now held under the shade of a large bread-fruit tree, consisting of all the principal chiefs, among whom I was included, being considered one.

      This group now presented a strangely wild and romantic appearance — a subject that an enthusiastic artist would have been delighted to look at; the fine athletic forms, the rich head-dresses, the entire body being tatooed over; no covering but the "mara," or rool of native cloth about the loins; the guns, spears, or clubs of each chief lying either beside or before him; the great body of warriors hovering at a distance around, the fluttering of the feathers in the headdress, the waving of the leafy veil overhead, all gave impressive effect to the scene.

      Each chief as he spoke did not stand up, and pace up and down, as at New Zealand, but retained his seat, and gave his opinion coolly and deliberately. Having been pre-

sented with a very fine head-dress of feathers, &c., my cap being taken from me purposely, I was desired to give my opinion.

      I told them I did not perfectly understand their method of fighting, or exactly their position, therefore I might say wrong. I was at once told, that it was of no use to talk that way, as some there had seen me shoot, and I had been made a chief, and must speak out; so to end the matter, and for the object of gratifying my curiosity, as well as to form some idea of the result of the expected encounter, I said I would wish first to see all the warriors assembled, to ascertain their numbers as well as arms, and then examine the pass to be defended; after that I would give my advice to all or any of the chiefs. This was at once agreed to, and that the next morning the fighting men of the tribe should assemble; so the council

broke up, every one to their own business or amusement.

      I walked about through the valley from one place to another, calling occasionally at the houses of the natives, where I met nothing but kindness and hospitality, scarcely any of them being satisfied unless I partook of some of their refreshments. There was a vast difference between this tribe and those of other of the islands, where the frequent visits of shipping had debased them; they were all handsome, fine-looking people; the "vaihenas," or women, were very beautiful; their hands up to the wrists, and feet as high as the aces, were tatooed, so as to resemble a lace glove or stocking; the elbows, shoulders, and lower part of their back all done with different patterns; and they appeared much more retiring and silent than those of other bays or islands I visited. The men were all very kind and courteous

to them, and feelingly attached to the children.

      In going about, I was not unaccompanied. I had in my train whole gangs of boys, singing, jumping, and leaping along; and around me as merry a procession as any one would wish to see; and when I would enter any house, they were so numerous as to close up the doorways, &c. They evidently saw I did not dislike them, and would often fight with each other for the gratification of holding me by the hand as we walked on.

      Whenever we fell in with a young man and woman chatting alone, evidently lovers, the little urchins would point at them, and set up a roar of laughter, telling me they were going to build a house for themselves. On those occasions the "vaihena" would cover her face with one of those very pretty fans, so much in use among them. This

fan, called "tahee," is a good specimen of native ingenuity. The handle is generally made of a light, soft wood, nicely carved, the body of very small cane, fastened together with a sinnet; it is fringed round with the red, yellow, and green feathers of the paraquetto, and several red berries fastened on here and there with the gum taken from the bark of the bread-fruit tree.

CHAPTER XIV.

      The morning following the council of war was ushered in with the sounding of the

war-conch." (It may not be uninteresting to state here, that the war-conch is a shell of large dimensions, and similar to those procured in the West Indies. The apex, or termination of the spiral portion, is bored for a mouth-piece; there are several bunches of human hair attached to it, and a handsome large soft cord, with which it is slung round the neck, hanging

by the side. There are a great many of them in use, the scouts always having one, with them to give warning in case of surprise. In still weather, you will hear them for miles, they sound so loudly.)

      The valley was full of noise and bustle, as all parties, men, women, and children, were hurrying to the place appointed for the review, which was a piece of ground of about ten acres, with only a few trees, and free from stones. It was nearly encircled by lofty, rugged, spiral rocks, the spaces between each being occupied by tall trees. It was an area that had been always used by them for kohinas or feasts, and various sports. When you were inside of it, you were shut out from every thing else, all the surrounding hills and country being excluded from the view.

      "Toomova" told me, early this morning, that I was made a chief in council, that I

was entitled to a portion of his land, being his adopted friend; and that as such, and with authority, I must take off the clothes I had on, and dress like the other chiefs. I told him I did not think it necessary, and had an aversion to do so, because I did not wish to go nearly naked, and also to have my skin blistered with the sun. He told me, smartly enough, that I must dress as a chief, because the people would think it unlucky if I did not; and as for the sun, I might not dread that, as I would, or might, wear over me a fold or mantle of tappa; and, to end all discussion, he unfolded a bundle containing my Marquesan costume, a present from him and other chiefs. He told me my clothes would be tabooed, and safe for me, and at once to strip off.

      I knew these people were very superstitious, and often the wearing of particular

ornaments or dress on state occasions was considered a good or bad omen, particularly in time of war. Having undressed, and begged of "Toomova" to be careful of my clothes, I put on my new dress, and may now describe it.

      I had anklets and bracelets of bushy human hair, taken from the head of the enemy by Toomova's brother (who was, it seems, lately killed in battle); round my waist I had the "mara" of snow white tappa, of fine texture and make; on my head was the head-dress presented to me at the council of war; by a string of human hair, over my neck and by my side, hung my war conch; also round my waist was my own leather belt, with ammunition pouch and knife, and in my hand my esteemed and highly valued friend, the rifle.

      I turned to Toomova and asked him would that do. He replied with delight, "mytake"

(good) — "come along now." As we were outside the door, I begged to get the tappa for my shoulders, to keep me from the sun; he brought it at once, and off we set.

      On nearing the ground, we could hear an occasional wild yell; this was the reception of the various chiefs as they came in. As soon as we entered the inclosure, when they saw "Toomova" and his friend, transformed as I was in dress, a yell burst from them that shook the air, and with every expression of delight they jumped high from the ground, making a noise by striking their war clubs together, and some at the same time beating on the native drum; the noise was tremendous — the scene before and around was savagely magnificent.

      We joined a group of chiefs who were assembled on a rising ground at one side of the plain. The muskets which had been obtained in trade from the ship were brought and laid

before us, with a quantity of cartridges; a conversation then arose as to the distribution of them to those best experienced in the use of the gun. Some time having been spent in this way, the warriors that were to have them were brought forward, and each took possession of his valued prize; having fired one round, to try if all was right, they returned to their respective divisions, or rather groups, which were always (except in sham or real fight) what our military term at ease," standing up or lying down, talking or laughing with each other, or moving about just as they pleased.

      Next each chief joined his own party, and the several companies came past us in very irregular time, jumping and shouting the war-song of their tribe, and killing all their enemies in words. There were before us upwards of nine hundred fighting men, armed with two hundred and fifty-six mus-

kets, with plenty of ammunition; the rest with bayonets on the end of long poles, or with spears and clubs of a most formidable description. They were a fierce-looking set, and from what I heard of the numerous attacks they withstood, a bold body of men; in fact, from the repeated aggressions of their enemies, they were continually on the defensive for their lives; but it may sound terrifically in the ears of my readers, when I tell them, that there was not a man present in the ranks of the warriors who had not eaten human flesh.

      The review and business of the occasion being ended, unlike the termination of all such military displays in Europe and elsewhere, the whole army and spectators, too, were to be well refreshed on the ground. In an angle of it, at the foot of a mound, was raised up an immense pile of roasted hogs. Adjoining that was a quantity of

roast plantain, bananas, yams, &c. As for water, there was plenty of it convenient.

      The chiefs all eat first until they could eat no more; then the whole army set to, and gorged themselves; and lastly, all the spectators, women, girls, and boys. I have often dined at ordinaries in large cities, where numbers sat down; but this surpassed them all for the numbers, and quantity of food consumed. All went of with perfect good humour, with the exception of an occasional blow of a club a boy would get for charging in on the food before his superiors. For my part, during the scene, I forgot my position, ship, and every thing else, and never laughed more in my life than at the scrambling for the food. Though the whole affair was highly barbarous, it was ludicrous in the extreme. I am sure if it occurred within any reasonable distance, all England would go at any expense and see such a sight.

      It was near sunset when the chiefs got the people all off the ground, and going home, each supplied with a portion of food folded up in leaves. Thus the whole array of warriors, spectators, food, and all disappeared, and the only traces of their having been there, was the well-trodden-down grass.

      After night, it began again to blow another storm. Brilliant lightning and loud thunder almost shook the earth, and the rain came down in (what sailors call) bucketsfull. Next day the rain ceased; but the wind howled up the valley moaningly, putting every one in the dismals, as we could not go about from the muddy state of the earth.

      I began to reflect very seriously on the circumstances in which I was placed, and had great misgivings about the ship, from these two storms, or rather hurricanes, which I knew could not be confined to this island;

besides, several of the chiefs and people bantered me about the probability of her being at all afloat. Calm reason came to my aid, and I finally determined to make the best of it, and myself as comfortable as I could, until time changed matters.

      After exhausting itself, the gale abated, and I went with the chiefs to examine the defences and breast-works. We found all right, no damage done by either wind or rain but at the foot of a rock, close to a small pass, was the lifeless body of one of our best scouts. He was an old man, but took his turn, contrary to the wish of his friends. He had no mark of violence on him; it was either the cold, or, more probably, the lightning that killed him. His eyes were open, as if watching. His body was carefully rolled up in tappa, and brought off to the village.

      After some ceremony, the dead man was

conveyed by about one hundred of the natives to a hill some distance off, where there was a hollow and retired spot, and laid on the ground. Then the "tahoona," or priest, joined the people, singing a funeral chant. A small house, or shed, was now quickly erected, and thatched; underneath the roof a stage was raised, about four feet from the ground. On this the body was placed in a sitting posture, and a piece of tappa covered him as high as the waist. Then there was hung near him, on either side, bread fruit, plantain, &c., and a large calabash, filled with water. The people now withdrew to a short distance. The priest took a bundle of white rods, and stuck them in the ground all round the house.

      This tabooed the ground, and as long as house, body, or rods remain, no one would ever enter the circle thus made sacred. In

this manner ended a Marquesas burial. These people deem it dreadful to place a body in the earth. In this generally clear and dry atmosphere the moisture leaves the body, and it is dried up, and lasts for years.

      The friends of the deceased now commenced cutting themselves with shells, until the blood appeared, as a token of their grief, and all moved off towards the villages. Their sorrow did not appear to be very permanent, as nearly all were as merry as ever before we reached the houses. In placing the provisions and water within reach of the dead, they have an idea that he might wish for some, and that it would be an act of great neglect, should they leave the ground without thus depositing the above-mentioned supply.

      The Marquesans are as superstitious a race of people as I have ever visited. In this unfrequented spot they cannot account

for where the ships or people like us come from; and from our great superiority over them, they conclude we are "Atuas," or gods. They had no other idea than that the visit of our ship brought with it these two last storms. It would be too elaborate here to describe minutely the extent of their superstition; but as it regarded and brought me in a party concerned, on one point I will be particular.

      A few days after the interment of the scout, I made a long exploring range through the country belonging to the tribe with whom I was living, and returned at sunset to the house of Toomova, where I was in the habit of sleeping, greatly fatigued. I found several chiefs inside, in earnest conversation. They told me to lie down, as they came to speak with me. I said I was ready to hear them.

      An elderly chief of consequence, named

Mate, then said, that the people believed there was some evil spirit working against them; that the unknown cause of the death of the scout found at the pass, was a sure sign of it; that the enemy not appearing now, when they were ready for them, and prepared to have revenge on them; that the late storms, greater than they had experienced for some time, and destroyed a good many fruit-trees, was another sign; and, finally, that some of the old men say there have been more odd things occurring lately, than took place for a long time before, and that the whole of those strange occurrences happened, or were produced, in consequence of my being made a chief on coming amongst them, and not being marked or tatooed as one; and to prevent any further mischief to them or their valley, it was their wish that I should be at once tatooed as their chief; and they

were sure all then would be right every where.

      I looked at my friend Toomova, he averted his head and avoided me. I then told them, "It was strange that any of those things which I could account for were put down to me; that I came on shore to live with them for a few days, and placed every confidence in them; that I did not desire to be made a chief, though Toomova, Mate, and others, had made me one; and I was not even aware of it until I met them in council, when they placed the head-dress on me; that I gave up my dress, and did as they desired me, even telling them, if they were hard pressed in fight during my stay, I would do what I could for them, as I saw they were harassed by superior numbers; that the ship would most likely be soon back, and I would return to my own people, with every feeling of

friendship for them; and finally, I hoped my friends would not urge the matter on me, as I would not submit to what I did not like."

      The chiefs, at the conclusion of my speech, got up angrily, and retired to the shade of a tree a little distance off, and left me sole occupant of the house, not knowing to what extent this superstition of the people might lead them to act against me. By- and-by, Toomova came and told me he said all he could for me to the chiefs; but it was of no use to oppose them, as they would only walk of; and even he could not protect my life; that the whole tribe, men, women, and children, were all my friends. As to the thing itself, it was nothing, and to come along to where the chiefs sat, and tell them I would be tatooed.

      I hesitated for some time, and clearly saw

there was no escape, and that opposition would be madness; therefore I made up my mind to accede to the wishes of the chiefs and people with as good a grace as possible, and to bear any pain inflicted by the operation as manfully as I could.

      We went up to the chiefs, and I told them, that, to prevent them being uneasy in their minds, as the people all were about me, I would submit to be "tatooed," provided that neither my face nor hands should be touched. They at once said that would do, and it should be as I desired, and each of the chiefs, as a formal mark of friendship, joined noses with me, and separated, shouting and bellowing the news into every house.

      When a common man is tatooing, the thing is done quietly enough; but when a chief is to be done, it is another matter. (I may here remark, that chiefs at the

Marquesas are looked upon as a kind of "atua," or god, and that the people make offerings to them.) With me, it was a matter of great moment and triumph amongst them, and runners being sent round, the whole population was aware, before bedtime, that I was to be tatooed next day.

      Next day, after our morning repast, the conchs sounded in all directions, and several muskets were fired round the house where I was, and all the principal chiefs came in. Then entered the tatoo-men, two to use the instruments, and two assistants. It is a regular profession, and only followed by a few. They are paid in kind for their work on the common people; but the chiefs they have a right to mark for nothing, and they consider it a high honour. In speaking of the celebrity of those men, the people will tell you, he is the best, he has tatooed such and such a great chief.

      They have only a few instruments in use. Those used for inserting the colouring matter into the skin are made of pieces of bone made flat, and serrated at one end, like either a comb or saw. The breadth of this end differs from the eighth of an inch to one inch, according to variety or minuteness of the work — some having only two teeth, some a dozen. The other end is brought to a blunt point, and inserted into a small cane about six or eight inches long, at right angles. The stick for beating this into the flesh is long or short, according to the fancy of the operator.

      The piece of cane is held between the finger and thumb of the left hand. There is a roll of fine tappa round the three remaining fingers of the same hand, to wipe off the blood, in order to see if the impression is perfect. The marginal lines of any figure are first marked out with a very small

stick, the remainder is executed without a guide. The hitting of the stick is so very rapid, that it resembles nothing that I know of more accurately than a trunk-maker driving in his nails.

      This incessant hammering at the skin, or into it, with considerable violence, irritates the whole frame, and the constant wiping of the blood with the tappa is worse. However, as the work proceeds, the flesh swells up, which gradually benumbs the part during the continuance of the operation.

      The colouring matter used is made in this way: Eight or ten nuts (commonly known as the candle-nut, from their emitting a bright flame, and being used by Marquesans as a substitute for candles) are strung on a piece of reed, which is stuck in the ground, the upper one being lighted. An inverted section of a cocoa-

nut is suspended over it. This condenses the smoke, which is very black, and when mixed with a little water, forms the marking-ink in question. The swelling is very great, but subsides much in five or six days. Sometimes the person operated upon does not recover for weeks; and when the tatooing goes on any where in the neighbourhood of glands, often, in irritable constitutions, forms large tumours and abscesses. Often erysipelas is produced; but those are rare cases, all generally getting clear with the ordinary inflammation, which is only of eight or ten days' duration.

      The various figures and lines have all their own signification, and are perfectly understood by every native. A man is not respected even by the children if he has not borne his tatoo. I have often seen tatoo over tatoo. After a feast or a battle there is always some addition, or fresh souvenir;

and if there is no room for more, it is done over some former stripes or marks. The operators are very expert, and some of the instruments being so large, an extensive surface is got over in a shorter period than a person imagines. However, it takes some time, and I have seen some obliged to stop the operator, to get a little cessation from the continued and sickening hammering.

      The vaheinas, or women, are often in faint after faint, and are obliged to be held firmly down; yet they wish to be tatooed, and voluntarily submit to this pain, for (as they, poor things, imagine) grandeur and beauty.

      I was four hours under the operator the first day, and three hours the second; which time sufficed to mark on my skin the delineations and characteristics of a chief. After all was over, the surface was rubbed with scented cocoa-nut oil, which cooled the

inflammation much, and gave me great ease. Then, blowing conchs and firing muskets again, ended the ceremony. There were several women in the house all the time — wives and daughters of the chiefs — and they appeared to sympathize much with me; but they were not allowed to interfere, as I was a tabooed chief.

      I was a little faintish after it, but on going out and sitting in the cool shade of a tree, all went off well. The people and chiefs all then looked upon me as more than one of themselves. They came in numbers, bringing what they thought delicacies of all sorts — fruit, fowl, pig, fish, &c.; and the chiefs gave me various presents. Indeed, all was an exhibition of real kindness.

      "Mate" gave me his own head-dress, which he wore in fifteen battles. It fitted me exactly, and was a splendid thing. There was a hoop of brown bark about three

inches deep to fit on the head; this was encircled with pearl-shell of various shapes, and red berries glued fast on; from the entire circumference of the top drooped gracefully over the shoulders the long, shining feathers of the cock's tail; the inside was lined, and the lower edge fringed, with the varied-coloured bright feathers of the ground-parrot. As soon as he put it on my -head, and adjusted it, he took me to a Marquesan looking-glass (a deep pond of clear water) to look at myself; and from what I beheld then, I certainly thought my friends at home would scarcely know me..

      Altogether those poor people were extremely kind to me, after the cause of their superstition was removed. Every day I had an abundance of every thing brought to me. After a few days the swelling all went down, the outer skin peeled off, and I was well again.

      I was now enabled to pass the time more agreeably, having the full confidence of the people. I ranged about every where for miles, not confining myself to any particular person or house — I was heartily welcomed to all. I amused myself frequently going out with the fishing parties. There was a fine young fellow, a nephew of Mate's, an excellent fisherman, who attached himself greatly to me, and in whose company I had many days' pleasure in rambles and fishing. He was very sturdy — a chief, and one who exercised his authority. If he or I wanted any thing — say fruit or a drink of cocoa-nut milk — if it was not brought forthwith, he would knock down the man he told to get it, with his paddle or club.

      He was certainly very expert with the use of either, and did use them, too, most unmercifully. I. told him one day, if he abused any one again for such trifles, I

would not go with him. This stopt him on land; but one day out fishing, there was a man in a canoe in his way; he told him to be off, and ended the matter by sweeping round quickly our canoe, and capsized the other. He said it was all mistake, jumped into the water, righted the canoe again, and desired the man to "Hoe," — that is, paddle away.

      I could not but laugh at the expertness of the trick. He was an unusually wild young fellow, but one that was very warmhearted, and utterly fearless on land or water. Indeed, the water is as much their element as the land. They think nothing of a capsize — they will right their canoe, jerk her fore and aft, which soon empties the water out, and jump inboard again, all the time laughing and shouting.

      Thus the time passed on. I may also remark, that the only instance in which I

practised my profession among them was, the cutting out of two bullets which were immediately under the skin. I carefully avoided, and refused to act in any other way, not knowing but that those superstitious people would (in case of a patient dying in my hands) do as in New Zealand — viz., try the doctor by a court-martial of the chiefs, and, without appeal, sacrifice him to the manes of the deceased. In fact, amongst such a people, though they may be warmly attached to him, a strange man is very critically situated, and cannot be too careful.

      On one of those delightful afternoons peculiar to the tropics, I was seated with two of the chiefs in the upper part of the valley, on an elevated bank, hearing from them their traditions, and stories connected with battles already fought in the war now going on.

      There were light breezes sweeping up, which carried with them all the fragrance of the vegetation, and made the air delicious, I may say, enchanting. The glory of the day was fast descending behind the high hills to the westward, and part of the valley was in deep shade; in other places, more elevated, the golden rays yet made the luxuriant foliage of a bright green. At such a time as this, and with such a landscape before the eyes, in any country of safety, one might, with delight, give way to the most pleasurable contemplation.

      After gazing at every point — the sea in the distance, the wild and fearful-looking mountains to the westward, the tropical richness of the valley beneath my feet, the fragrance of the air — I could not help letting one word (with deep feeling) escape my lips, and that was — "The Creator."

CHAPTER XV.

      After some time of unusual enjoyment here, we were aroused by the sounding of the war-conchs not far off. In a few minutes some of the runners dashed past us, shouting, "Booboohe, Booboohe" — guns, guns; and shortly there was a noise and bustling all around, that beggared all description — men plunging through the bush to their houses for their, arms; women singing songs of encouragement, and collecting the different implements of war, &c.; boys shouting —

in fact, irregularity in sound and motion reigned triumphant.

      I was now hurrying rapidly to what I called my home, when in jumped on the scene my fishing companion, Mate's nephew, bearing my gun, ammunition-pouch, knife, &c., and a message from "Toomova," to say he wanted to speak to me, and that he was up on the high rock to the right of the defence.

      I had now only about one mile and a half to go, so was soon by his side. The rock which we were on now formed an excellent observatory. It overlooked our own valley, and, what was particularly important, a few miles of the enemy's country. There were a few bushes on the flat top of it, which enabled us to see every thing going on, without being seen by the enemy. We held a consultation here about the defences, the placing of the men, &c. I

now saw plainly that the people I was with were really the weak party; that every attack, (only for the bravery of the men,) endangered the destruction of the tribe; that they had suffered severe outrage and loss of life from the others; and that it was my duty, for their sakes and my safety, to assist them in every way I could.

      "Toomova" was commander-in-chief. I was to remain by him wherever we moved, and Mate's nephew was also to be with us, as he would not leave me. The wind increased considerably, and swept up our valley, and in face of the enemy. There was a vast quantity of small cane growing from the breast-works a good way into the enemy's country, which, though it formed good cover for them to advance through, was dangerous in other respects. Our whole tribe were now at their posts — the men in front,

the women and children some distance in the rear, singing away as usual.

      From the rock we could see the reeds moving to and fro, and here and there a high head-dress would pop up. At it a shot was sure to be fired by our party. By-and-by the cover appeared all to be in motion, and full of men. We now got down off' the rock, and went to the centre of the defence with about three hundred men. I saw bundles of dry grass scattered all along inside the defences, in case they were hard set to fire the cover. This evening was peculiarly favourable for a purpose of the kind, and I suggested to Toomova to do so at once, and hunt them out of it; but he said no, it would retard them rushing on in a body, but if they came too strong, I would then see fire.

      The enemy came crawling through the reeds, and were endeavouring to muster

up for a rush, when a rattle from our muskets made them lie down again. In number they evidently had the advantage of us. In about half an hour more they' made the expected rush, and numbers actually got in on us, when there ensued a terrific contest with clubs, spears, and musket buts, the women yelling all the time; others succeeded those who got in, and it now was evident that it required the bold united effort of the whole tribe to save themselves. Every man fought, and had to fight; no man dare for his life be idle; if he did not act on the offensive, he was obliged to defend himself.

      This hand to hand business gradually ceased; then the muskets, spears, and slings began again, and as there were plenty of rocks, trees, and long canes, all round, each man sought concealment to

save his person, occasionally only appearing to fire and advance, or retreat _to another shelter; in fact, this part of the fight was what is commonly called "dodge and fire." Night was fast approaching; the distance was all gloom; the battleground, which extended for about two miles, (for there was constant shifting of position,) was partially illumined by the dry grass and canes taking fire here and there, from the falling of the ignited gunwaddings. There was also a full moon at this time, so that we had very fair light to see each other occasionally; but, fearing mistakes might occur, Toomova told every man to tie a piece of white cloth about his neck. This made all our's known to each other at any fair distance. It was a very judicious plan, considering that night was on.

      This tribe of our's were better shots than

any I had seen at the Marquesas. They also were very quick in watching the cover, and equally quick with aim. We gained well and fast on the enemy, hunted them from rock to rock, and from tree to tree, until (with the aid of the blaze from the fires) we could see their brown and well-oiled bodies flying past and over what had been defences in the forenoon, but were now ruins, with many passes through them. We had now only an occasional shot after any of the natives who had kept to our cover too long, and were trying to escape, but could not. If they missed the shot, they were sure of spear or club.

      The time now arrived for Toomova's final revenge. The bundles of dry grass along the entire line were ignited, and thrown into the dried cane-brake; the fresh breeze assisted, and carried the blaze onwards; and very soon there was two miles wide of

      roaring fire in smart chase of the retreating enemy. It was a terrific sight — a sad sight; scores of wretches must be scorched alive; they could not clear the canes or grass in time to save themselves. The hills on either side of the pass were too steep to clamber up. In fact, they were in a bed of fire, from which there was no escape.

      The rushing and crackling noise of the furious flame, as it swept away from us — the wild and triumphant shouts of our people — their mad-looking dance, and rapid running to and fro of the natives in the bright light, (for every bush and plot of grass around us was on fire,) gave the whole scene a downright picture of hell.

      I was leaning against a rock resting myself, when I was startled by a slap on the shoulder; and on turning round, beheld Toomova, unhurt, in all his triumph, and

my companion, Mate's nephew, covered with blood, and a broken arm. The first told me I was a very good man, shook me heartily with both hands, and said that the women were getting some water up from the stream, and something to eat would be here directly. This was pleasant news. The latter told me to get on my legs, and come along with him over the ground, to see all the dead; and added, with a significant gesture, "Epo, newe, newe, kai, kai te tanai;" the interpretation of which is, "By- and-by eat — eat plenty of men."

      There was now safety on our ground, and indeed far beyond it was free from any living enemy, as the fire finished the matter. The women now were with us, and ranging over the ground in search of their living or dead husbands,' or sweethearts. Occasionally we could hear above the night breeze a lamentable howl, when any of them

discovered the dead body of those dearest to them. With the yet burning fires all around, they could be often seen cutting their skins with shells, &c., and giving all sorts of vent to their grief. The scene was a dismal one.

      After having quenched our thirst, and eaten some food, Toomova got a couple of stout large mats, which we rolled ourselves up in, and had some rest before daylight.

      At sunrise all was activity again. The business now was to separate our own dead from the enemy, which duty was performed in about two hours. The first were respectfully rolled in tappa, as a preparation for interment; the latter were collected in a heap, preparatory to cooking. The ornaments were first taken off; then the hair of the head, for making bracelets and anklets, as trophies: they were then dragged away down to the stream to be washed.

      The ground was all round strewed with broken clubs, musket-stocks, spears, &c. The bark of the various trees also showed many a sign of the ripping passage, or graze of a bullet. By noon, the whole field was cleared of every one, and every thing; it was not even deemed necessary to leave a sentinel, or scout behind.

      The men brought all the dead down into the valley, and deposited them in the ground already described, where the review and feast were held. The women and boys brought away all the arms, both whole and broken, and deposited them in the houses of the parties to whom they belonged. In this battle we lost a good many men, but the loss of the enemy was very heavy. Though our party was by far the weakest, yet we had the advantage of the defences and works, the ground otherwise, and the fire; and the men acted very bravely. Indeed it

became them to do so, for if they had given way, and the others poured in after them, we would have been all eaten.

      Near where they deposited the bodies, they now dug several large holes in the earth, and into them they cast a number of stones, so as to cover the bottom of the pit, over which there was a pile of wood set on fire. The knife generally in use at the Marquesas is a split flat piece of the large bamboo, the edge of which cuts as sharply as any of our instruments. With this they cut up the dead bodies of their enemies into convenient sizes, and rolled the pieces up in banana or plantain leaves. As soon as the stones were nearly red hot, the burning wood was removed and thrown aside. Those parcels of human flesh were then arranged on the hot stones, and a deep covering of grass strewed over. Then water was sprinkled over all, and as soon

as the steam arose the whole was covered over deeply with earth, to remain until next day.

      A great many ovens having now been set at work in this manner, the remainder of the day was spent in burying our friends, after the manner I have before stated. The Marquesans never eat their own party. I must throw a veil over the feast of the following day, as I had only one look at the beginning of it, and left the arena sick to loathing: went off to the house, and did not leave it until this horrid scene was ended. Thus terminated the Marquesan battle, and its consummation.

      A few evenings after this, in wandering along the head of the valley, and on the level ground on which the battle was fought, I had the curiosity to cross the ruins of our defences, and have a look over, and down the other country. I had not gone far

when I observed three people and a child coming up towards me. I was about getting within our own territory again, when one of them unfurled a piece of white tappa from a long stick.

      I knew at once this was a flag of truce, and as such always treated by the Marque- sans. I waited now for them, and to my surprise they told me they were two chiefs come to make peace and be friends; and that, as a signal of it, and to ensure it, they brought back Toomova's mother and his child, whom we all thought were sacrificed. It seemed that (from their story) they were going to be immolated to their gods, when a head chief, of great age, claimed them as his property, and saved them. They were.now returned to their own people, to end the war.

      Nothing could equal the amazement with which "Toomova" beheld his own child

and his mother now safely before him. I cannot describe the scene, or give any idea of it. I took advantage of his first calm moments, or rather, I may say, his returning reason, advised him to call a council of the chiefs, and settle the peace at once. This was done in about two hours afterwards.

      I now told him the pleasure it gave me, to see his mother and child alive, and with him; and that as I wanted to see my friends, I should be told whenever my ship was seen, or indeed any other, as I was very anxious to be away. He and the others agreed to that, and promised to do so; at the same time hoped and expected I would not go off with the ship, but return and live with them. To this I was silent, and turned the conversation.

      Those people were now at peace, and intermingled with each other; yet they are

so capricious, that something very trifling might happen, that would again embroil them before a month. The enemy that we lately fought against were tired of it. The two chiefs who came over told me, that the people could not sleep day or night in their valley, or bay, the lamentations of the women were so great for the losses they had sustained in the last battle; and only very few escaped the fire in the cane-brake. In fact it was now evident that our small tribe had killed their best warriors, and had well deterred the rest; and it was a fortunate thing the woman and child were alive, or I really think that, by repeated battles, one party or the other would be exterminated.

      Being all at peace, and friends together, I made a few excursions through their country, but have nothing new to tell of it. All the parts of it are of equal fertility, and the

whole of great extent. The population is very great. There is no difference between these people in their habits — all are heathens and cannibals alike.

      It happened one morning, that the entire of the fishermen, with the chiefs, were at the foot of the valley, with. all the canoes, nets, lines, &c., ready for a day's grand fishing match. The fog was very heavy seaward, and prevented us seeing a mile out. We were all very merry, and waited only for the fog to clear away, (which it generally did quickly as soon as the sun got to bear upon it.) After some time passed in this way, the loud boom of a ship's gun struck our ears, and echoed its way far up through the valley and hills. All eyes were strained seaward. After some time the sun took the top off the fog, and we could see the royal masts of a ship over it. After a little, it became rarified, so as to resemble a thin

white veil suspended between the ship and us. And at last the entire disappeared, and exhibited to my delighted eyes my own ship, about two miles off, with the main-yard a-back.

      The natives also knew her appearance at once, and held a deep consultation among themselves, which I well knew related to me. I called Toomova, and reminded him of his promise after handing him over his mother and child; and that I would now go on board, with him if he wished, and see my friends. He told me at once they had all been talking about it, and agreed to fulfil their promise; but that I must leave my gun, ammunition, and clothes, as a pledge that I would come back, as the people were so attached, they did not like at all to part with me.

      I told him I would shove off as I was, (a la Marquesan, nearly naked,) and go

on board. After a little more talk among them, he and I, with another chief, got into the canoe, and hoed, or paddled away to the ship; but just as we left the beach, bang went another gun, (for the doctor, of course, not seeing him in any of the canoes afloat; he was nearer to them than they expected.)

      I was not recognized from any other of the savages, until close alongside, and after a chorus of laughing, they gave me three hearty cheers, to which I responded most cordially, waving my paddle over my head. Amidst the most tremendous and unrestrained laughter I ever heard, I got over the side and on deck once more. I was first met by my ever-kind friend Captain Lock, who shook me heartily by the hands, exclaiming, in a good-natured manner, "Well, I'm glad to see you on board once more, out of the hands of those man-eaters.

What! all your clothes gone — gun and all — come off to the ship naked and tatooed as a Marquesan? Well, if this is not the fag-end of a cruise among savages, I don't know what is."

      I begged to be excused for a moment until I slipped down to my cabin, and got something on me. As I walked across the deck and descended the companion, I could hear the ship ring with the laugh of our jolly boys. Before I got on deck again, the natives who came off with me communicated my whole history on shore, the particulars of the war, &c., to two natives who were regularly shipped on board; and as they spoke English fairly, the ship's company had all the news quickly, so I was a kind of a lion for a while. The captain determined, as the weather looked fine, and the ship so close in, to send two boats for any thing they could get.

      I told Toomova that I could not go back at present, and that if he brought me off my gun and head-dress safe, I would give him in exchange another that I showed to him, with a canister of powder, and my jacket, cap, and trowsers, which were in his house. He seemed greatly grieved he could not get me back with him; but finally brought me off the gun, knife, and head-dress. I then feelingly took leave of him.

      Thus ended my residence and adventures on this island; and when we were all seated below at breakfast, and pleasant together, I could not help saying, "there is no place like home," for I always felt at home with the officers of the ship. Having procured two boat-loads of hogs and vegetables, we filled away on the ship, intending to call at Nukahiva, which we did, and anchored in the fine bay of Taihoe.

      The breadth of the mouth of the valley is considerable, and there is a good deal of good level land on the larboard hand as you go in. The river, or stream, courses down the valley, and forms a basin of good water abreast of the anchorage. There is easy landing at all times. The starboard hand, as you go into the bay, is one irregular range of precipitous rocks, and separates this bay from the one more to the eastward, the bay of Oomii, or valley of the Tiapiis.

      The inhabitants of those two valleys are almost continually at war, which is generally carried on at the top and passes of the high and rugged land separating each.

      At this time there were three missionaries there from North America. One was married, and the other two were not. They had a small house near the beach, made as comfortable as circumstances would permit.

Their pulpit was erected under a bread fruit tree, close to their dwelling. They had been there only a few months, and had not had time to make much impression on the people. I saw them once with a few natives before them, endeavouring to make them comprehend the solemn truths they were expounding to them.

      The zeal of these gentlemen was great; but it was a melancholy sight. The natives were strewed about, lying on the grass, or leaves — some, making mats; some, laughing and talking; others, making cocoa-nut sinnet; but all listless. The missionary was labouring at a disadvantage. He had not been long enough among them to speak the language well. I understood they were greatly annoyed by the natives. Indeed, from what I heard, their insults were scarcely endurable, and I was afterwards told that they were obliged to leave it.

      Moona was the young king of this valley; but there was another chief named Hapea, who appeared to be regent. I did not like those people as well as those I lately came from. There was a constant intercourse of shipping here, which exceedingly debased the natives. Indeed, from the licentious habits of these people, and the equally loose conduct of their frequent visitors, it was difficult for the missionaries even to get a hearing, or collect a few together for the purpose.

      We went round the point in one of our boats, to have a look at the bay of Oomii. It was not large, nor so well adapted for anchorage as the one we lay in. We contented ourselves with an examination of it without landing, as the Tiapiis are very treacherous; and, for my part, I had had quite enough of adventures among the Marquesans for the present.

      Having accomplished the object of our visit to Nukahiva, in a few days we put to sea, and stretched away to the northward of this group, and cruised about for three weeks, in search of sperm whales, but were not very successful. The weather all the time was very fine. We really enjoyed ourselves, and passed the time on board very pleasantly.

CHAPTER XVI.

      On our return to the southward, we made Robert's Island, the most northern of the Marquesans. It is in sight of, and not far from Nukahiva. It has been always uninhabited, and seldom, though sometimes visited by the natives of the other islands. The captain had visited it many years before, and now determined to lower a boat, and land, where we might expect some good sport with the wild hogs and goats on it.

      Accordingly, we ran the ship close to it, and lowered one of the boats. Directions

were given to the chief officer to keep well off the land, but not out of sight of it during our absence.

      Having been now well prepared with every necessary in the boat, we pulled towards the only safe landing-place on the island, which was a steep, stony beach of about two hundred yards in length, with a heavy surf lashing up on it, and the adjacent rocks, to a great height. Indeed, the swell breaking against the shore appeared almost too great to attempt a landing. However, after gazing at it for some time, and seeing that we could get a chance now and then to run the boat in, the captain determined to try it. So we prepared accordingly, making every thing in the boat fast, and carefully rolling some of our clothes round the guns to keep them from the sea water, of which we anticipated a good sprinkling.

      We now watched our opportunity for the smoothest swell; and when the time seemed favourable, pointed the boat in for the landing. The heaving up of the deep sea got under us, and lifted us to a fearful height; then the high crest of the wave broke, thundering and boiling all round us, the spray covering and nearly blinding every one. From the top of this surf the boat plunged down into the hollow, or bed left after it, with so violent a shock, that nearly all were unseated, and the oars unshipped. "Lay fast hold of your oars there — mind your steering, Bill — point her fair in." "Ay, ay, sir." Another tremendous swell now made in, like a large hill, after us. The muscles of every one were strung up for the moment. It moved under us, carried the boat with the swiftness of an arrow towards the land, broke all around and over her with a deafening noise, carried us nearly

blinded up on the beach. Every one now jumped out, laid hold of our fine whale boat, and ran her up high and dry on the beach, out of the reach of the surf.

      Now that we could stand steadily and look at the high barrier of boiling foam we had passed through, we could not avoid wondering how we got in without a capsize, or the destruction of the boat, and consequently ourselves. Nothing but a good whale boat, well handled, could live through it. If we had had any idea of the extent of the surf, we would not have attempted to land, as the greatest danger is in getting out again.

      I may here remark that it is a matter of difficulty to ascertain the extent of a surf until you are fairly in it. A great deal depends on the occasional heavy swell meeting a gradually deepening, or suddenly steep beach. In the first case, the body of water heavily washes high up; in the latter,

meeting with an abrupt resistance, it bursts like thunder against beach and rocks, and sends its glistening spray high into the air, to fall again in on the land with a roaring noise, like a bursting water-spout.

      At the full and change of the moon, the surf becomes very heavy round all these islands, and generally continues for two or three days, often longer, to lash the shores with much violence — I may say fury; and though our landing was hazardous, yet we had a comparatively quiet time of it to what we afterwards witnessed.

      Shortly after our coming on shore, the sea came rolling towards the land in large swells, and the surf broke so high, that we were obliged to shift the boat away further inland out of its reach. The appearance of the surf from the shore was now sublime; the snow-white crest of the foaming breakers dazzled in the sun's rays like

a large bed of diamonds tumbling on the beach; and although the weather was particularly fine, it was quite evident we would be obliged to remain on shore until the violence of the swell subsided. The captain was uneasy about getting off to the ship; but as to the boat's crew and myself, we were all pleased with the idea of two or three days' amusement through the island.

      We first took off our clothes, and hung them on the bushes around us to dry; next we examined the contents of the boat, and found that the precaution we had used before entering the surf kept every thing from the water; even the guns were all in order for instant use.

      While thus engaged, we were not a little surprised to see two men emerge from the bush, not far from us. We thought, at first sight, they were natives, as they were

nearly naked; but on their coming up to where we all were, we soon found that they were Englishmen, and one of them was instantly recognized by our captain as having been one of his crew several years before, while he commanded the ship Mary, of London; his name was Thomas Holt. On inquiry, he told us he had been on this island for about five years; that he was in an American brig searching for sandle-wood; that the vessel touched at this island for the purpose; and not liking the crew or captain, and having a wish to rest himself from the toils of a sailor's life for a while, he determined to remain behind, and had been here ever since.

      The other man (James Butler) was living with the natives at Nukahiva; heard from some of them that Holt was here; came over in a canoe in fine weather, accompanied by a Marquesan boy, and joined

him about two years before our visit; so that, previous to that period, Holt was about three years living alone on this isolated spot. The boy, who had by this time joined us, with Holt and Butler, were now the only inhabitants of the island. They said they had plenty of every thing they required, and welcomed us to take share of their hogs, fowl, fruit, &c., as long as we had to remain, and, from long experience here, they all agreed that it would be a few days before the surf would subside sufficiently to get the boat out with safety to ourselves, and that we had a very providential escape in landing as safely as we did.

      We gave directions to the men to place the boat in the shade of the trees, and shore it up so that it would not be strained by resting on the land. This being done, and every thing spread out to dry, the

captain and I accompanied Holt in a walk to his house. We could not avoid having a frequent and hearty laugh at each other's undress appearance, having nothing on us but our shirts and caps; the remainder of our garments, being too wet with the surf to put on, were thrown over one arm, while we carried our guns, &c., over our shoulders.

      Our way lay through a delightfully picturesque and natural avenue of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and other trees, with here and there a high, naked rock of very fantastic form. The weather was very fine, the temperature of the air agreeable, and the vegetation around was fresh and luxuriant. The chirp of the paroquette, and the occasional note of other birds, added life to the scene.

      After walking through this for about a mile and a half, we came to a very

densely wooded part, and by taking a scarcely defined footpath through this for a few moments, we arrived at an open space, from which the trees had been cleared away, leaving the stumps about two or three feet high. At one end of this clearing, and close to a small pond of fresh water, Holt's house stood. In the rear of this habitation was a complete barrier of thick timber, which had not been touched. The house itself was about twenty feet long, by twelve wide, sufficiently capacious for the residence of the two men and the boy that formed the only inhabitants of this island. At one end of it there was a kind of cook-house erected, where they prepared their meals. The furniture of the house consisted of two sleeping places for the men, and a smaller one for the boy, built up against the side of the house, after the manner of a ship's berth; two

muskets, and a couple of Marquesan spears. Fishing-gear hung against the wooden partition, the house being divided into two apartments.

      Two frying-pans, and an iron boiling- pot, with three large calabashes slung for carrying water, and five or six canoe paddles lying in the corner; a kind of a table was in the centre of the larger room, rudely enough made, by driving four posts into the floor, and resting on them a slab of wood, roughly flattened with an axe. They had also two spades, and as many axes; pieces of hollowed wood served them for plates and dishes.

      In this very primitive dwelling the captain and I took up our abode for the present. Our excitement and exercise since we left the ship had given fresh vigour to our appetites, and we soon despatched a couple of fowl, with a piece of pork and some

biscuit, which we had with us. Holt did all he could to make us comfortable, while Butler and the boy remained on the beach to take care of the men.

      As the house could not accommodate all of us, it was determined to turn the boat keel up, and, with the assistance of the sail, to make a kind of tent for the men where they were. These arrangements having been all effected, I will now describe the strange inhabitants of this small but delightful island. Both Holt and Butler were men of the middle size, strongly made. The former having resided at New Zealand, the latter at the Marquesas, for some time, contracted altogether the wild and free habits of natives, and both were liberally tatooed on their bodies. The boy was about fourteen years old, exceedingly intelligent in appearance, and was so in reality. He seemed quite contented with

his residence here, and said the men were very kind to him.

      Holt told us that, during his first year's residence here, when he was alone, he felt some uneasiness from the natives of Nukahiva, particularly the Tiapiis coming over in their canoes, to hold a feast on the bodies of some of their enemies. After observing them from his hiding-place, during two of their visits, he resolved to either frighten them off, or shoot them if they landed. Shortly after arriving at this resolve, he had an opportunity for its execution, by the arrival of seven warriors in one canoe, and ten in another. They were about to land, when, from his concealment or ambush, he fired a shot at them. They seemed amazed, as they had no idea any one was on the island. They held a consultation, and some were evidently determined to come on shore and

give fight, when he again fired among them. This settled the matter, as they pushed off the canoes, went away, and did not since trouble the island, not knowing how many might be concealed on it.

      After Butler and the boy joined Holt, they all, it appeared, lived pleasantly together, cultivating a patch of land, amusing themselves hunting the wild hogs, and occasionally going out fishing, for they had the canoe that Butler came over in.

      During our stay here, I had an opportunity of being all over the island, and found it to be a charming spot. Though small, it had a great variety of scenery, from the ruggedness of rocks to the softened landscape of hill and vale, richly timbered in some places, and long waving grass in others. There were also a great variety of natural caves of different extents, some of which Holt pointed out to

me as his hiding-places during the first year of his residence here, when he did not wish to be discovered by his cannibal visitors. The natural and cultivated productions on the island were bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, plaintain, bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, melons, pumpkins, wild hogs, poultry, &c. Taking all this into consideration, my friends here were not badly off.

      After having very agreeably passed the time here for five days, the surf was so much gone down, and the sea so smooth, that we resolved to quit the island. I may here remark, that the ship was every day in sight of it, which was satisfactory to us. The ship was only a few miles off when we left the beach, and soon discovered the boat's sail set, when she ran in towards us, and we were soon in-board, and at home again.

      We were accompanied to the ship by

Holt, Butler, and the boy, in their canoe; and after having made them some presents of clothing and other necessaries, we bid them farewell, filled away on the ship, and steered to the southward and westward.

      In a few days we made King George's, Krusenstern, and others of the Low Island group, which all have a very strange appearance, from even a short distance. The first thing you see is a tree here and there, as if growing out of the water, and not unlike, in the distance, a boat under sail. On closing in, you see the snow-white beach, formed chiefly of broken coral, and fine shells. The sea is generally here as smooth as a lake, but the current is very strong, and not very regular in its course. I had an opportunity of examining several of these islands, and found that a great similarity existed between them. They were evidently formed by the coral insect originally; and now

cocoa-nuts, long grass, branches of shrubs, &c., for our live stock on board, we again pulled of to the ship.

      After steering through several of those curious islands, enjoying delightful weather, and a smooth sea, with fresh breezes, all the time getting the ship in good order, by keeping the people at work on rigging, hull, &c., we at last got clear of this intricate navigation, and shaped our course for the Georgian Islands, and more particularly for the far-famed island of "Tahiti," which we sighted in a few days. My first visit to it was in the latter part of 1833. During the following three years we were twice again at it; and finally fitted the ship out for the homeward passage there. During all these visits there was no change, so that my description will be a general one.

CHAPTER XVII.

      IN making the island, from a distance you might imagine there were two of them, as the high land is only joined by a narrow low neck. The easternmost part is called "Tieraboo." We were about five or six miles off Point Venus in the afternoon, and as we could not get to anchor at "Papete" before night, we shortened sail, and lay off and on, taking care to keep well to windward, to be ready for the trade-wind in the

      morning. All this time the weather was peculiarly fine, and the temperature of the air every way agreeable.

      Early the next day we bore up, and ran for the entrance in the reef, which is directly opposite a farm-like looking house, belonging to Mr. Bicknell. "Jem," the native pilot, was on board; and on passing in, or rather across the boundary of the reef, the ship instantly ceased to have any motion, and we were in smooth water. With the aid of a fresh breeze, and a careful guiding of the ship, we arrived in the smooth basin in front of Papete.

      This is certainly a lovely harbour to lie in. Outside there is a barrier of coral reef, which effectually keeps off all swell, and the water is so smooth that the smallest boat can at any time land at any part of the beach. About the centre of the harbour is the small island, with two or three

old carronades mounted, a few bushes, and a pleasure house for the queen whenever she likes to go to it. This house is often used to discuss matters of political business in. The name given to this little spot is "Mothu." Some distance below it, to the westward, is another wide opening in the reef, through which all the ships pass out to sea, the trade-wind being right after them, from their anchorage out. This natural arrangement of the harbour, with its entrance and exit, renders it a safe anchorage for sailing vessels, and one that they can get in or out of at any time in the day, from nine o'clock A.M. until six or seven o'clock P.M. However, with the aid of that great modern revolutionizer, steam, you can go in and out at either entrance at any time, or a sailing vessel could be towed in night or day.

      The rise and fall of water in the harbour

is very little, and does not at all affect shipping, or boat-landing. On the point at the upper end of the harbour is the very comfortable dwelling and pearl-shell store-house of Captain Abell, who is married to a daughter of Mr. Henry's, the missionary. Close to his house, and near the beach, lay a large barque, in which he made several trips to the Gambier Islands for pearl-shell. Next along the beach was a small neat house, a kind of hotel or house of call for ship-captains, &c., kept by a Mrs. Buckle, widow of the late Captain Buckle; then a few straggling houses of English and American residents, intermingled with those of the natives down to the middle of the harbour, where the long low house of the queen's was situated, fronted by two or three large trees on the edge of the beach. A few of the houses were whitewashed with lime made from the burning of the coral rock. Altogether it

had the appearance of a straggling village. At the lower end of the harbour stood Mr. Pritchard's house, long and weather-boarded, with piazza in front, a plot of grass, and a few cocoa-nut trees between it and the beach.

      There were also the native and English churches close together — the former large, the latter small. The rich foliage of the bread-fruit, lime, lemon, cocoa-nut, and guava trees, were waving over and between the houses, and scented the air all around. The houses are all so rurally concealed, that to look at the shore from even a short distance, you might imagine that the population or trade of the place was absolutely insignificant; and it is only on shore, while walking either round the beautiful, but narrow road that nearly encircles the island, or through the interior, that you become aware of the extent of the population. There is a

constant hammering noise, resembling what is making by our leather manufacturers in or over tan-yards, going on — this is the beating out of the tappa or native cloth; and in fact, with the exception of this, and the noise of groups of children singing and playing in the shade, there is none other — all appears peace and harmony.

      It is from such a transition as I have just passed through — from the heathen in all his naked barbarism, to the mild, Christianized native — that one would at once feel and know where the missionary had been, and where Christianity was established. In the places I lately came from there was war, devouring each other, and savage confusion every where. Here all was peace — man and nature were in harmony with each other. The power of religion had completely altered the naturally uncontrolled character of the native, and effectu-

ally subdued barbarism. The former history of these islanders is well known to all readers. They were guilty of every bad and profane act. Infanticide and human sacrifices, in all their horrid shapes, were common occurrences. Utter abandonment and licentiousness prevailed over those islands. What are they now? The query may be answered in a very few words — "They are far more decided Christians than the chief part of their civilized visitors." It is not at all an unusual thing to hear a native at Tahiti lecture a European on his badness and want of religion.

      As usual in those seas, where the shipping lay is the worst. I have been all through Tahiti, and round the various stations, and I must say, the only habitual wickedness I saw or heard of was at "Papete." In other districts, far from the harbour, it was delightful to spend time with the natives. In

fact, during my different visits to Tahiti, I avoided Papete as much as possible — I did not like it. The white residents there were all a sordid, speculative set, with few exceptions perfectly indifferent to religion, and gave no aid, by their example, to the propagation of it. They were all bent on moneymaking by any means, either off natives or strangers. The contrast was even greater on Saturday (for that is the Tahitian Sabbath) in the churches. In the native one there was a dense congregation, every one occupying their respective seats; the English church, though very small, was not half filled.

      In the evenings, after sunset, at Papete, you will hear the constables, or watchmen, patroling the beach, and shouting out the usual proclamation, beginning with, "Vahiena ita harre oe to Pihii," &c.; which is, "The women are not to go on board the

ship," &c. Then it goes on to detail the punishment of making so much tappa as a fine, (all the measurement at Tahiti is reckoned in fathoms — so is it with the fine of tappa, so many fathoms of it.) Now this is not the case any where else, because shipping do not resort to other places at the island, and no bribe is elsewhere held out to invite immorality. If the men should be guilty of any act contrary to the laws of the island, their fife is generally to make or repair a certain number of fathoms of the road, which is generally called the Broom Road. There are a great many streams crossing the road to the sea. At such places there are generally a few planks laid across, which serve every purpose of a bridge for foot passengers; the horses may walk through it.

      There is such a feeling of peace and security here, that a man may really enjoy

himself in every way; and to add to it, there are a great many horses, that can be hired, and by the common road you can go for a good way round the island, and visit most of the villages and missionary stations. Those rides are delightful, with here and there an open space opening to view the most enchanting scenery — not the wild, rugged, rocky, and irregular views of the Marquesas, but a landscape of hill, valley, and stream, peculiar to Tahiti. On either side of the road round, you very often for miles pass through a high and thick wall of fragrant foliage, that keeps off the sun, and you feel pleasantly cool.

      In going to Mr. Henry's station, many miles to the westward of the harbour, you have a ride of this description, and nothing can be more agreeable. The journey, also, to Mr. Nott's station at Paree, and on to

Mr. Wilson's at Matavai, (another, but bad anchorage,) to the eastward, is also very pleasant. All round Matavai, and Point Venus, where Cook had his observatory, is a rich specimen of Tahitian beauty and fertility. There is an extensive grove of Tamarind trees of great size there, which Cook's gardener planted, with a variety of other fruits.

      Mr. Orsmond's station, at the other side of the island, is also beautiful. The missionary stations generally, at a distance, appear like comfortable American farmhouses. They are all built of wood, weather-boarded, and piazzaed round. The offices and large school-house look like great. storehouses; but when you come close up, somewhere not far off, peeping among the trees, you get a view of the church, which at once tells you where you are. I have often heard it remarked, that

these missionaries have no privation to undergo; that they live on the fat of the land; that the half, or nearly whole, of the home reports, are all fudge; that they are all merchants, traders, &c.

      Now let me tell the reader what I saw and know, and I do so disinterestedly. These missionaries leave home, friends, and all that are dear to them; they land on Tahiti with a family, and sometimes an increasing one; the salary allowed to them is scarcely sufficient for their support; they work often with their own hands, and exert themselves much to make all about them comfortable, and to give their houses something the appearance and feeling of English comfort; and they very often succeed. Now, while all this is going on, the native is with them, and every thing being explained, he receives some useful instruction, if it is only in getting a table

or form made. All this time the cause of the missionary is at work; that is never neglected, either in the field or in the house.

      At the various stations you will always meet the most friendly hospitality. The best they have is always placed before the visitor, with a hearty welcome. At Tahiti the missionary has the most comfortable stations in the Pacific; all is quietness, and industry has done much, but Christianity has done the rest. They have now, if they are allowed, only to continue the work they have so victoriously begun.

      As to the missionaries being merchants and traders for personal gain, I must emphatically deny it; they often purchase goods and mechanical implements, and store them up. If a known industrious native wishes for an article, he invariably goes to the station. for it, as

he well knows, if he went to the store of a European or American, he would have to pay an enormous profit. Again, the natives bring in cocoa-nut oil, arrow-root, sugar, &c., to be sent off and sold for the benefit of the missionary funds generally. This also goes into the store. Now, a stranger seeing all this buying and selling, as it were, at the station, without ever inquiring the particulars, sets the missionary down as a trader, and often reports him as such, the true state of the case being, that the missionary is serving all those for miles round him; and this trading-house, as it is called, is nothing more or less than an accommodation-store for the benefit of the natives. Well, then, they are instructed also in agriculture in its various branches, sugar-making, &c. This duty also devolves mostly on the missionary, for there are none others to trouble their heads about

them, further than they can make by their work. I have seen most of these gentlemen at the various stations, have known their varied knowledge and employments, and I must say I have never met better informed men in every respect. No matter what is wrong, or what information is required, the native invariably applies to the missionary, and expects to be set right, and by dint of perseverance, experience, and research, they are enabled to comply with the demand, and to give them, faithfully and correctly, the information required.

      I have a pleasure in here stating that they are a superior body of men. As I before said, Tahiti and the adjoining islands of the Georgian group, are the most agreeable stations for the missionary; but when they land on other islands, great privation is suffered, and often so much rude-

ness and insult from the natives, that a firm resolve to proceed with their mission alone supports them under it. The missionary families only in England are acquainted with it; it is never fully reported.

      The south-easternmost part of Tahiti, called "Tieraboo," is not so much under the influence of Christianity. They there retain many of their old heathenish customs, and are an anti-missionary party; but it is to be hoped that time will alter that.

      I have experienced at this island the greatest kindness and hospitality, and I will not forget my kind friend Mr. Bicknell, whose house was my home whenever I chose to reside in it. Mrs. Bicknell was hospitable in the extreme, and in every respect English — a large, very fat woman, with a constant expression of real good c

humour. There were a good many Europeans residing at Papete, well off, and making much money, who landed on the island without a dollar. They all made a business of boarding a ship as soon as she arrived, and, offering cash down to the needy sailor for goods, which they bring on shore, and sell again at often four times what they gave for them. Then there were grog-shops kept by runaway sailors from ships, who generally commenced with a gallon of rum, but who now, by prudence, were engaged variously, and realizing money.

      There is a disease prevalent here which I have not seen elsewhere, called by the natives "fefe." It is a kind of elephantiasis, but the skin is smooth; the legs, up nearly to the knees, are swelled to a great extent, and out of all proportion. Some of the white residents also had it.

My friend Bicknell was afflicted with it. It might be attributed to the inactive lives of those here, who are naturally lazy. I have not heard of its attacking the missionaries, or stirring mercantile people, whose professions kept them moving quickly about; nor the lower class of hard-working natives. The chiefs, being really a lazy, lounging set of men, were most affected; but the natives here in general have not that great activity of mind or body, that the Marquesan or New Zealander possesses. I rather think it will be a great while before either of the latter-mentioned natives swell in the limbs, or get so enormously fat as the chiefs do at Tahiti.

      I felt so completely at home and in security at Tahiti, that when I left it for the last time, I felt much regret. I was charmed with the island, I liked the natives, and received unlimited kindness from the mis-

sionaries, and several English residents. In fact, we all felt as if leaving a home port, more than a distant island in the Pacific. The natives were decidedly attached to the English, and preferred them to all others. Having been at anchor the last time at Papete a good while, we got the ship thoroughly re-fitted; and having every thing completed, live stock and all on board, we got under weigh, and sailed over to "Eimeo," (or, as it is sometimes called, "Morea,") and came to an anchor high up in the deep fine bay, called Poopooa, or Cook's Bay.

      On the left hand side, going in and along the bay, there are immensely lofty and precipitous hills, covered with verdure to their summits. The interior of the island is very high and irregular; but where there is level land, the fertility is great. The vegetation here is the same as at

Tahiti; but the scenery is more picturesque and interesting. The natives, their manners, and customs are the same.

      It is here the South Sea academy is; and a more healthy or delightful spot could not be chosen for its site. It is situated on a rising ground commanding a fine view of the houses, church, burial ground, &c., and the sea in the distance, with the bold rugged mountains on the other side of the bay. A large grass field is in front of it, which serves for play-ground for the students. The house itself is large, long, and in every way commodious. There is a gallery, or piazza, raised high from the ground running its whole length, forming either an agreeable promenade, or a delightful place to sit on, and enjoy the cool refreshing trade winds, or gaze on one of the finest landscapes in the world. The offices also are extensive, and judiciously erected. In fact, the entire

arrangements are perfect, and reflect great credit on Mr. Simpson, who presides over the institution.

      The South Sea academy was founded in 1824, and Mr. and Mrs. Orsmond were the first who presided over it. It is in conjunction with the missionaries, and under the management of a committee. I believe it has a grant from the funds of the Mission Society. It has received many contributions from England and America in money, select books, philosophical and mathematical instruments. The library is now very respectable. The entire arrangements of the institution are very perfect, and in every way calculated to afford both comfort and a liberal education to the students. The missionary in the Polynesian and other islands in the Pacific, has not the additional expense and great anxiety of sending their children to England to be educated. They

generally now send them all to this academy, where they feel confident their general, as well as moral instruction will be carefully attended to; and the parents have the great happiness to think that a few hours' or days' sail from the neighbouring islands will enable them to see their children at any time they wish.

      Some of the royal family at Tahiti have received instruction here. The native teachers also receive their primary and final information, that enables the missionaries to scatter them over the smaller islands, and increase Christianity. Such is the known utility of this•establishment, such the confidence placed in it, that the merchants and respectable traders at Tahiti, at the Sandwich islands, &c. are all anxious that their children should be sent to it; and it is a matter of great importance to them to know that constant kindness and excellent in-

struction awaits them at Eimeo. A certain sum of money is paid for their board and tuition. A great part of this goes into the funds for the support of the institution.

      The well-conducted and religiously-brought-up children of natives also have access to it, and particular attention paid to them. Considering it in every way, its excellent arrangements, its kind instructors, its healthy situation, it is decidedly an admirable institution of the most extensive utility.

      Further inland are the remains of the old cotton-mill; and on the side of a hill near it is the house of Mr. Armitage, who, with his family, came home with us, when the ship was homeward bound. There was a steep avenue, or ascent to this house; but when at it, you had another fine view. Mr. Armitage endeavoured to teach the natives the manufacture of cotton. He was a great

many years among them, and did all he could. When the mill was erected, from the novelty of the thing at first, the men women, and children attended; but after some time, they all got tired, saying it was no use to work, when they could buy all the cloth they wanted for very little, out of a ship. Then they began stealing: one took away one piece of iron work; another, something else, until the chief part of the works disappeared, and rendered all further exertion, on the part of Mr. Armitage, futile.

      At the head of the harbour is a small river coming down from the hills, where a ship can obtain water easily. There is also there a sugar-mill. The caretaker of it was an unfortunate Irishman, who had been transported to Australia, but managed to arrive at Eimeo, where Mr. Simpson humanely gave him food and employment, and spoke highly of him.

      His dress consisted of an old straw hat, a shirt, and trowers, which was always tucked up to his knees. He had a long beard, and was altogether a Robinson Crusoe sort of character. He spoke the native language well. He told me several of them escaped together, but that in coming along, and touching at different islands, some of them went ashore, and lived with the natives at the Feejees Isles; others got killed and eaten; and he fortunately escaped, and reached Eimeo, where he met a kind friend in Mr. Simpson.

      In ranging this island, near one of the old morais, or burial-grounds, in the heart of a wood, and near a stream, I discovered a very unusual thing in those islands — a private, and very primitive distillery. It consisted of an old iron pot for a still, a long bamboo for a worm, and an old barrel for a receiver. There was nothing in it

then; but it had been evidently lately doing business, as there yet existed partial remains of its contents, which tasted like a kind of dirty weak rum. It was situated in a most retired spot. If the person was found at it he would be fined, as the laws of the island were strictly temperance ones; but any strong drink the natives made in this retired manner, they and their friends generally consumed it as fast as it was made, on the spot.

      The Christian burial-ground in Eimeo is respectable, and English in appearance, with head-stones, tomb-stones, &c. Mr. Orsmond came over with us from Tahiti, and was kind in going with me every where about the station and settlement, and explaining all. He was a most agreeable man, and (from his fine rich voice, and great singing powers) a favourite with "Pomorre," and her numerous retinue of girls, mostly chiefs'

daughters, one of whom her majesty urged me to take for a wife, and live on Tahiti, adding that she would give "Merahi te Phenooa," plenty of land, and "Merahi te Booatero," plenty of bullocks, which, of course, she could; but not being so inclined at the time, I waived all those brilliant inducements, and begged to decline so great a favour, even- from the hands of majesty.

      The natives of Tahiti, Eimeo, and others of the Georgian, and Society Islands, are, on the whole, a quiet and peaceably disposed people; yet there is one thing to be remarked; and that is, there is not one of their houses in which you will not find one or two, sometimes more guns, in perfect order, and well taken care of. What use they may make of them remains to be seen. So far, they have boldly and patriotically, in defence of their islands, stood the attacks

of the disciplined soldiers and sailors of proud France.

      I may, at a future time, bring the reader across the meridian 180° into east longitude, and tell him of adventures and occurrences at islands, and other places, where a civilized trader seldom, and a missionary never landed.

John Coulter, M.D.
      Adventures in the Pacific; with observations on the natural productions, manners and customs of the natives of various islands: together with remarks on missionaries, British and other residents, &, &.
Dublin: William Curry, Jun. and Company, etc., 1845

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