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A HANDBOOKTOTHE JAPANESE EMPIREBasil Hall Chamberlain (1850–1935) |
portion of the wall of an enormous ancient crater, in the midst of which stands the present cone, with its smaller though still considerable dimensions. From this point it is 5 min. walk to the lip of the ancient crater, which here forms a flat oval waste of minute scorise, with stones scattered about the surface. Its greatest length on this side is estimated at nearly 1 m., and it is surrounded by low broken hillocks of lava, against whose sides the sand is piled up. Half an hour's walk across this desolate waste brings us to the little torii marking the Nomashi approach to the mountain. From this point there is a fine view. In front, and most conspicuous of all, are the other islands and islets of the Izu group, the curious pyramidal Toshima, with Shikine and Kozu behind; to the l. of Toshima the longer and lower outline of Niijima, with little Udoma in front. To the l. again, but considerably more distant, are the larger islands of Miyake and Mikura, while on exceptionally clear days the outline of Hachijo can be descried. To the W. are seen Amagi-san and other portions of the peninsula of Izu, the towering cone of Fuji, with the lesser Hakone and Oyama ranges; to the N. Misaki in Sagami, and to the N.E. the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu. The climb hence to the top takes 1/2 hr. The width of the present crater at the summit has been estimated at 3/4 m. Mihara may also be ascended from Habu or from Senzu, the climb on that side of the island being, however, much longer and more difficult. A pleasant walk of about 1 m. from Habu may be taken to Bozu-ga-Hora, i.e., the "Priest's Dell," noted for its ferns. A spare day at Habu may also be devoted to walking along the coast towards Senzu; but the vapour spring on the mountainside between the two places is at a distance – 5 ri – which makes it difficult of access in one day. This spring is resorted to in cases of wounds and bruises. Futago-yama, the double-crested mountain whose red hue caused by the presence of brittle lava is so conspicuous from Habu, is a mere spur of the volcano affording no special interest. Steamers run monthly between Yokohama, Hachijo, and the two main islands of the Bonin group. Once a year, in summer, the boat calls at various others of the long chain of green isles and barren rocks that stretch almost in a straight line from Vries to the Volcano Islands. Japan claims jurisdiction over all these, as well as over Shin-Torishima or Marcus Island, in lat. 24°14' N., and 154° E. long. about 650 miles E.S.E. of Haha-jima. Hachijo, miscalled Fatsizio on English charts, is the southernmost of the group known as the "Seven Isles of Izu." Legend avers that the original inhabitants were Chinese, who accompanied the expedition of Shin-no-Jofuku (see p.386) to search for the elixir of life. Another widely known tale, often depicted in art, credits Hachijo with having been exclusively tenanted by women, whose husbands were relegated to the island of Aoga-shima, or Oni-ga-shima ("the Demons' Isle"), 40 m. to the south, and were only permitted to visit their wives once a year, when the sea-god caused a south wind to blow. The boys born of these hasty unions were sent away to live with their fathers, while the girls remained with their mothers. Plain history says that Hachijo was discovered by the Japanese in A.D. 1487. The natives speak a patois, which retains certain peculiarities current in the speech of Eastern Japan four or five centuries ago. They cultivate the soil wherever possible, but do little fishing; they also produce, in small quantities, a fabric known as Hachijo tsumugi. The women wear a loose gown tied with a narrow girdle in front; their long luxuriant hair is coiled on the top of the head in a double knot, and secured by a band of white paper. The staple food is tho sweet potato. Cattle of a diminutive breed form the sole means of transport, and furnish a rough amusement to the islanders by a peculiar kind of bull-fight. |
which, however, has none of the brutality of the Spanish sport. Two bulls are led into a ring of spectators, and gradually allowed to approach head to head. Then follows a pushing contest of brute strength. Victory is declared by the weaker being pushed outside the ring, or a throw may occur by the two pairs of horns becoming interlocked. It is a rare thing for the bulls or the men leading them to sustain any serious injuries. Hachijo is about 12 m. long by 4 m. broad. The southern half consists of a series of steep ridges some 2,300 ft. high, while the N.W. end rises into an extinct volcanic peak, – Hachijo Fuji, 2,840 ft. A narrow cultivated valley running E. and W. separates these two mountains, which are densely wooded. The aspect is picturesque from the sea, which is here of a deep indigo blue, owing to the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf-stream. Sheer walls of rock, and the contorted ends of lava streams, surround the island almost completely. Though there are no harbours, fair anchorages exist on the E. side at Mitsune, and on the W. at Okago, where stand the government offices. No regular inns have yet been established, but rough accommodation may be obtained at some of the peasants' dwellings. The houses on the E. side of the island are enclosed by dykes of lava, those on the W. by large boulders. Store-houses are attached, which are raised from the ground on wooden supports to ward off the depredations of rats. The walk from Mitsune to Okago – from sea to sea – occupies about 1 hr. But half a day during the vessel's stay would be best spent in making the ascent of the local Fuji, a steep climb of some 2 1/2 hrs. from Mitsune. The open paths should everywhere be followed, as a poisonous species of snake abounds. There is a crater on the summit, about 1/4 m. in diameter, in whose centre rises a circular plateau dotted with pools of water, where the cattle that graze on the mountain slope come to drink. Rough paths lead over to three other villages lying on the E. and S.W. sides of the southern mountain group. The Bonin Islands consist of three distinct groups, lying between the parallels of 26°. 30' and 27°. 45' N. Lat. They are of volcanic origin, with a fringe of coral. The most northerly cluster was called Parry's Group by Capt. Beechey, R.N., who visited the Bonins in 1827, and named the principal islands. The central and largest group includes Ototo-jima (Stapleton I.), Ani-jima (Buckland I.), and Chichi-jima (Peel I.), while the biggest member of the southernmost cluster (Coffin or Bailey I.) is now known as Haha-jima. This last lies 580 m. due S. of Yokohama. The Japanese names are given on an original system: – Chichi-jima, which means "Father Island," has near it the Islands of the Elder and the Younger Brothers (Ani and Ototo), while the islets round Haha-jima or "Mother Island" are termed "Sister," "Niece," etc., and the northernmost group includes the "Bridegroom," the "Bride," and even the "Match-maker." The Japanese claim to have discovered the Bonins in the latter part of the 16th century, and to have kept up fitful communication with them down to 1863, though formal possession was not taken until 1875. Their general name for the archipelago – Ogasawara-jima – is derived from that of the Daimyo whose followers discovered it. Our word "Bonin" is a corruption of Jap. Munin, which means "uninhabited." Some maps give another name, – Arzobispo, – which is derived from old Spanish charts. From 1827 onwards, the Bonins began to be inhabited by shipwrecked whalers and other waifs and strays from Hawaii and elsewhere, who brought Kanaka wives with them. These and their descendants, to the number of about seventy, formed the sole population till the advent of the Japanese, who now number nearly 6,000, and have founded a regular government, introducing schools, |
posts, roads, and other elements of civilisation. The half-caste settlers, who all speak English, remain on aa Japanese subjects, undisturbed in their old holdings, and continue to live in cabins thatched with the leaves of the cabbage palm. Many of these men spend the summer months sealing in the North Pacific. Most of the children now attend the Japanese government schools. The most prosperous industry is the basket work made of the leaves of the Lohala palm (Jap. Tako-zaiku). Sugar is largely cultivated and pine-apples are canned for the Tokyo market. The vegetation is tropical and luxuriant, including bananas, lemons, and oranges. No snakes or other venomous reptiles exist, and but few birds or butterflies; but cockroaches and ants are everywhere a plague. A species of bat is found, measuring some 3 ft. from wing to wing. The sea swarms with sharks, and the coast is visited by large turtles which the men go out in canoes to catch. The distance from Hachijo to Chichi-jima, 395 m., lies out of the track of all sea-going vessels. Forty miles from Hachijo, Ao-ga-shima is passed, an island rising perpendicularly to a height of about 1,000 ft., which is unapproachable during the greater part of the year; yet it has a considerable population. Omitting minor pinnacles and turrets of rock, mention may be made of Tori-shima, 1,170 ft. high, the scene of a terrible volcanic eruption in 1902, when the whole population of about 150 was overwhelmed. Passing Party's Group, – a number of fantastically jagged rocks, – and leaving Ototo and Ani-jima on the l., the steamer enters the beautiful circular harbour of Chichi-jima, formerly known as Port Lloyd, apparently the crater of an extinct volcano. Of the numerous abrupt hills, all thickly wooded, that rise on every side, the highest is Asahi-yama, 880 ft., at the E. or upper end of the harbour. Behind a stretch of yellow sand on the N.W. side, stands the vill. of Omura (passable inn), the seat of the local government. Most of the foreign settlers live at Okumura, a little to the N.E. On the opposite or S. side is Ogi-ura, the only other fairsized village. Ferry-boats ply between Omura and Ogi-ura, 1 3/4 m. A hilly path round the head of the harbour, about 3 m., connecting the two villages, affords a pretty walk. Other good, though hilly, roads lead across to various points, notably to Hatsune-ura, 2 1/2 m. on the E., and to Tatsumi-ura (Fitton Bay) on the S.E. From Miya-no-hama, or "Jack Williams," near Omura, a fine view is obtained of Ani-jima across the narrow strait. Weather permitting, pleasant excursions may be made by canoe to Yagi-shima at the S.W. end of the harbour, and to Minami-jima, with its landlocked harbour, at the S.W. corner of the island. Haha-jima, 35 m. to the S. of Chichi-jirna, is some 7 m. long by 1 1/2 m. broad. It has no harbours. The steamer anchors some 2 m. off the vill. of Okiimura, which lies in a shallow bight with a picturesque approach. It possesses no inns, but some fair shops. Though the island is hilly (highest point 1,470 ft.) and rock-bound, its numerous valleys, well-adapted for sugar cultivation, make it the most flourishing of the whole archipelago. Cattle of a large breed find good grazing-ground in the southern part, and bull-fights are held similar to those described on p. 532. A hilly path, commanding a succession of delightful views of distant islets, traverses Haha-jima from Kitamura at the N. end to Okimura and on to Minaml-saki at the S. Further details of the history of the Bonin Islands and of the early settlers there may be found in Capt, Beechey's Narrative, Commodore Perry's Narrative, Vol. I. Chap. X, and in Vol. IV of the "Transactions of the Asiat. Soc. of Japan," 1876 ("A Visit to the Bonin Islands," by Russell Robertson). |
Basil Hall Chamberlain
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Source:Basil Hall Chamberlain and W[illiam]. B. Mason.
Last updated by Tom Tyler, Denver, CO, USA, Dec 1 2021.
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