Bonin Islands  Source  Whalesite

The Japan Gazette,

A Fortnightly Summary of the

Political, Commercial, Literary, and
Social Events of Japan.

REPORTS

THE U.S.S. "ALERT'S" EXPLORATIONS.

      On the 28th ultimo we published a full and comprehensive account of the surveying operations of the United States gun-boat Alert up to her first return to the Bonin islands for coaling purposes on the 16th of May, the particulars of which were kindly placed at our disposal by the executive officer, Mr. D. Mahan. Through the courtesy of the same gentleman we are enabled to give a further report of the explorations of the gunboat, which have resulted in determining that many more of the dangers marked on the British admiralty charts do not exist.

      At noon on the 23rd May the Alert weighed anchor; and after clearing Hillsborough island her head was turned south with the object of searching for a doubtful reef or rock called Valetta, and marked on the chart as situate in 21 degrees north latitude and 143 degrees east longitude, distant south of the Bonins about three hundred and seventy miles. Early on the morning of the 26th the steamer arrived in the neighbourhood of the suspected danger. A sharp look-out was kept aloft and on deck as the vessel slowly passed through the spot where the reef was supposed to be. Soundings were taken which resulted in bottom being found in the neighbourhood of two thousand fathoms, clearly indicating that the Valetta reef was nothing worse than a scare-crow.

      In answer to a question as to the probable cause of so many rocks and islands being placed on the British admiralty charts which were proved by the Alert's explorations to be non-existent, Mr. Mahan replied that the majority were reported originally by the masters of Spanish merchantmen and placed on the Spanish charts, from which they were transferred to the British admiralty charts and remain there to this day without having been verified; and it was for the purpose of determining whether these dangers did or did not exist that took the Alert into those waters. Mr. Mahan attributed the errors of the Spanish merchantmen to badly rated chronometers or to the floating of masses of whales' food on the top of the water, which, without a close examination, might readily be mistaken for a reef.

      Having traversed the ocean in the neighbourhood of the supposed Valetta reef from the morning of the 26th to midnight of the 27th without finding anything, the Alert gave up the search as useless, and shaped a course further south, under easy sail, to search for the Florence shoal, set down on the charts as situate in latitude 18 deg. north longitude 143.30 east. Surveying was commenced on the morning of the 30th May and continued without intermission until midnight of the 30th, when, finding nothing, Commander Huntington ordered the vessel to proceed in search of a shoal without any name, marked "doubtful" on the charts in lat. 16.30. N. and long. 143.15 E.

      Surveying operations had scarcely been commenced when Lieut. Hunter, executive officer, was taken suddenly ill and the vessel in consequence had to return to the Bonins there to take in coal to enable her to bring the invalid to Yokohama. On her way back to the Bonins the Alert passed through the spot indicated on the charts as Britomart reef, and cut a passage through the supposed Lindsay islands. A deep sea sounding was taken in the spot where the latter were supposed to be, resulting in bottom being found at a depth of 2,500 fathoms. The supposed position of the Enphrosyne rock was again passed over, and the vessel reached Port Lloyd at 3 p.m. on the 7th June. A number of men were engaged to coal ship as expeditiously as possible, and at 8 p.m. on the 8th a start was made for Yokohama, the steamer passing in sight of Ponafidin and Smith's islands.

      In the meantime Lieut. Hunter had been gradually sinking, and when the vessel was off Aogasima, the unfortunate officer died.

      The Alert reached Yokohama at 11 p.m. on the llth June, and on the following day Lieut. Hunter was buried.

      The necessarily hard work and anxiety had also told on Commander Huntington's health, and during the Alert's stay in Yokohama Commander Cotton of the Monocacy exchanged vessels with Commander Huntington, and at 10 a.m. on Sunday of June 19th all hands were set to work to haul the anchors and the Alert once more stood down Yedo bay on her way back to the Bonin islands.

      On her first trip to the Bonins the Alert had been roughly handled by a severe gale, therefore when at 2.30 p.m. of the day she left Yokohama the barometer went down very low and there was every indication of a cyclone, the ship was put about and run for Tatiyama, bay where it was resolved to weather the approaching gale. However, though it rained heavily, the force of wind was not very great, and at 10.30 a.m. on Wednesday, June 22nd, with a rising barometer, the vessel was got under weigh and proceeded on her voyage, arriving at Port Lloyd, after a pleasant run, at 4 p.m. on the 25th.

      The ship's bunkers having been well stocked with coal, and fifty tons taken on deck, the Alert again weighed anchor on the 1st July, shaping a course for the Farallon de Pajaros, the most northern of the Ladrone or Marianna group, and an active volcano, which was sighted soon after daylight on the 4th July bearing about twenty-four miles away.

      At sunrise the vessel was decked out in all the bunting she possessed in honour of the day. There was no holiday for Jack afloat, however, as the day was spent in taking observations and soundings.

      The volcano is said to have been a grand sight, well worth the journey of hundreds of miles to witness. On approaching the island the summit appeared as though covered with snow, but a closer view showed the cap was of sulphur; and from the centre of which, apparently, arose a high column of smoke and vapour. As perceived in relief of a mass of black cloud which lined the horizon, it can readily be imagined that the spectacle was brilliant. On a nearer approach a number of columns of vapour were observed rising from the base of the mountain which at first were supposed to be from submarine volcanoes, but which, later in the day, were found to be immense clouds of steam rising from the water, generated by the streams of boiling lava ejected by the volcano into the sea. The mountain formed quite a natural curiosity from the variety of hues in which it presented itself, of almost every conceivable shade between the white sulphur cap which adorned the brow of the volcano to the black cinders which streaked its sides.

      The mountain on one side rises at an angle of about 45° from the sea, and the water is so clear that this angle is perceived at a great depth underneath. To walk up the side is impossible, as those hardy pedestrians who ventured found out that for every step forward they slipped two back. A stone thrown up came rolling back to the feet of the thrower. The other sides, however, were not so steep, and on the southern portion of the island is a level plain, terminating in a high castellated mass of rock some five hundred feet high, and near the base of which is a small green spot looking very much like grass. This is the only smooth place on the island.

      At night the volcano presented a sight the grandeur of which can scarcely be conceived by the most vivid description of the pen. There may be a basin at the summit of the mountain, but if there is it is not observable from the deck of a ship; and one thing is certain that neither fire nor vapour come from the top as was at first supposed when the ship was approaching the island.

      About two thirds of the way up the mountain's side is a large hole, looking like the entrance to Hades. It is indeed the month of an immense fiery furnace, from which poured a stream of molten lava, heated to a white heat; and as this fiery stream wended its way to the sea, it became divided into four smaller streams, which looked like so many fire-falls as they continued their course until they disappeared behind an immense mass of vapour generated by the falling of the liquid into the water.

      A boat's crew landed on the island during the day, and as the party were rambling round examining many curiosities, an officer endeavoured to ascertain the depth of one of the numerous holes which perforate the surface of the island by inserting his leg into it, but though the sounding line was not long enough to touch bottom, it was of sufficient length for the extremity to get into uncomfortably warm quarters, and it is almost needless to say that no time was wasted in sending to the ship for the donkey engine to render assistance in extricating it before it was withdrawn, and an examination proved that the leather covering of the lower extremity had suffered injury from contact with a substance hotter than the surface. The circumstance is treated rather as a good joke on board the Alert, and as illustrative of the danger of exploring the sides of volcanoes.

      The Alert sailed away into the fast approaching night, and as the darkness deepened the fires became more brilliant, and the lava was distinctly observed boiling and

foaming along on its coarse to the sea, presenting a sight not likely to be forgotten by those who were so fortunate as to witness it. The crew of the Alert had a finer display of fire-works on the night of the National Anniversary than the majority of their friends either at home or abroad.

      The little steamer stood south under sail and steam to look for the doubtful reef she was in search of when the illness of Lieut. Hunter necessitated her return to Japan and on reaching the position the reef was supposed to be in, surveying was immediately commenced and continued for a day and a half, the soundings clearly testifying that this was another danger in the Pacific which mariners may no longer be afraid of, and the sooner it is expunged from the British admiralty and other charts the better.

      At noon on the 7th July the Alert's head was turned further south to look for the reef called Mira-Porvos, which, in Spanish, signifies "look out for yourself," and supposed to be in lat. 14.20 N. and about long. 143.30 E. At 8 a.m. on the morning of the 8th the position was reached, and without any delay the steamer commenced her usual tactics when searching for an island or reef, steaming in parallel lines about five miles apart, taking two deep sea soundings on one line and three on the next, for two days.

      Hitherto the weather had been comparatively good and favourable for surveying operations, but fine weather does not last very long at this particular season of the year in the latitude in which the Alert was conducting her experimental enterprise with such signal success, therefore when the barometer showed indications on the morning of the 10th July of an approaching storm, everything was made as snug as possible on board. And none too soon, for one of those terrific squally gales which prevail in the Pacific soon struck the vessel, which was hove to to receive its force the better, and for twenty-four hours it blew a hurricane accompanied by heavy rain; and on the steamer's way back to the Bonins an unusually heavy sea was encountered.

      At 8 a.m. on July llth further search south was given up and a start made for the north to look for still one more of those doubtful reefs the non-existence of so many of which the Alert had succeeded in establishing. The ground was reached on the llth at 2 p.m., and as nothing was found but deep sea everywhere, and the vessel having completed her usual parallel lines, a course was shaped for the Britomart reef over the position of which it was desired by the commander of the Alert to run a few more lines; and, as no reef was discovered, the Alert then started once more for that haven of refuge, the Bonin islands, which were reached at noon on Sunday the 17th to the great relief and pleasure of all on board, for a most trying time had been experienced. All the coal left on the island was taken on board, and after a detention of two days by rough weather the Alert steamed away from Port Lloyd at 10 a.m. on the 22nd July, bound for Yokohama, where she arrived in safety, after an uneventful voyage, at 9.30 a.m. on the 25th.

The Bonin Islands.

      The chief circumstance which renders the Bonin islands of interest is the fact that a number of foreigners have resided there in a semi-savage state from a date anterior to the visit of Commodore Perry to Japan. To-day a few of the first settlers are still alive and with their descendants, and they, with the descendants of those who by fair means or foul have gone over to the majority, form quite a little colony. Accounts from various sources agree that the islanders live apart, are very jealous of each other and are in a state of profound ignorance scarcely conceivable. About two years ago an attempt was made to send a schoolmaster to the Bonin islanders — at least the scheme was agitated by correspondents in the columns of the Japan Gazette — but fell through either from lack of funds or from the want of a suitable person willing to undertake the onerous task. The islanders have felt the necessity of giving their children an eduction the lack of which has been such a drawback to their own domestic happiness, and have made attempts from time to time to send them to Kobe; and when the Alert recently visited the islands the good offices of the captain's clerk, Mr. Van Buskirk, were solicited to make arrangements with a missionary in Tokio to take a certain number of children for a period of three years.

      On the arrival of the Alert in Yokohama with the body of the late Lieut. Hunter, Mr. Van Buskirk lost no time in negotiating with the missionaries in Tokio. Overtures were first made to the Catholic mission regarding the son of a Frenchman named Lesseur, who resides on one of the islands, a native of Brittany, commonly called French Louis. L'Abbe Midon informed Mr. Van Buskirk that before he could take the boy into the mission the nationality of Lesseur would have to be established. Then an agreement would have to be made binding the boy to remain in the mission until he became of age; and sundry other formalities had to be gone through. Mr. Van Buskirk then went to the Rev. A. C. Shaw, a missionary connected with the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, in Tokio, and having described the illiterate condition of the islanders and their anxiety to give their children an education, Mr. Shaw readily entered into the scheme of bringing the young outcasts within the pale of civilization, and engaged to board, lodge and educate a limited number free of charge for three or more years.

      On the return of the Alert to the Bonin islands, the result of Mr. Van Buskirk's negotiations were made known and received with as much enthusiasm as could be expected from a class of people naturally taciturn and morose in disposition. A difficulty, however, presented itself which for a time threatened to upset all their plans for sending the children to school. How were they to be got to Tokio? This problem was discussed most earnestly. The vessel which usually visits the island twice a year had just departed and would not come again for six months. In their dilemma it was resolved to appeal to the governor of the islands to use his influence with the commander of the Alert and endeavour to induce him to convey the children in his vessel. The upshot of this application to the governor was the following letter. —

To Commander C. S. Cotton, U. S. N.,
      Commanding U. S. S. Alert.

      Sir, — Certain European settlers of this island, who sometime back reported to me their intention of sending their children to Tokio to ho placed at school for a term of years, now inform me that it was impossible to secure a passage for the children in the mail boat which recently left this harbour, and ask my good offices in recommending them to you for a passage in your ship to Yokohama.

      The ambition of this people to secure for their children proper training certainly deserves at my hands all possible aid and encouragement; with which feelingly I heartily recommend the request of the settlers to your favourable consideration.

      I enclose a list of the parents and children above referred to and have the honor to be very respectfully.

      The following lint of names, with the ages of the children, was enclosed in governor Takeda's letter: —

      It is almost needless to say that, notwithstanding the lack of accommodation for passengers which the Alert afforded, commander Cotton willingly agreed to the suggestion of governor Takeda, and even placed his own cabin at the disposal of the two girls; and on the vessel arriving in Yokohama they were seen safely in charge of their new guardian.

      We may mention here that with the exception of Carrie Pease, the others had signed contracts to remain under Mr. Shaw's direction for a period of three years, the exception referred to, on account of her extreme youth, being under an engagement to remain for six years.

      During the stay of the Alert at the Bonin islands the officers of the ship obtained some very interesting particulars regarding the people, their methods of living and government. When Commodore Perry visited the islands in 1858 he took possession of the Southern group in the name of the United States Government, and caused a copper plate to be fastened to a tree bearing the following inscription: —

      "This southern group of islands has been explored and taken possession of by Commander John Kelly and officers of the U. S. ship Plymouth under orders from Commodore M. C. Perry on behalf of the United States of North America. This 30th day of October 1853."

      At the same time the national flag was hoisted and a salute fired from the ship. The flag was left flying when the vessel left. The population of this acquired territory at that time did not exceed eleven. The soil was a rich, sandy loam, capable of producing fine crops of sweet potatoes and corn. Lemons, pine apples, and tobacco grew wild. Wild hogs were plentiful at the north end of the main island. Birds, such as pigeons, plover, and ducks abounded, and the land was infested with rats.

      Commodore Perry did what he could towards bringing the Bonin islanders under some sort of control, and to induce them to recognise some law. With this object in view the commodore caused the following regulations to be drawn up and signed: —

      We, the undersigned, residents and settlers on Peel Island in convention assembled, wishing to promote each other's mutual welfare by forming a government, have ordained and established the following articles which we solemnly bind ourselves to support for the period of two years: —

Article I.

      The style of our government shall be "The Colony of Peel Island.

Article II.

      The government shall consist of a chief magistrate and a council comprised of two persons, and by virtue of this article, we unanimously elect and

appoint Nathaniel Savory, chief magistrate, and James Mottley and Thomas H. Webb, councilmen — each to hold his said office of chief magistrate and councilman for the period of two years from the date of this convention. The said chief magistrate and council shall have power to enact such rules and regulations for the government of this island as by them from time to time may appear necessary for the public good; such rules and regulations to become binding on the residents must have the approval and concurrence of two-thirds of the whole number of residents.

      Until such time as the chief magistrate and council may be enabled to form a code of regulations, we unanimously ordain and establish the following thirteen sections under this article which shall have full force and effect until the adoption of others, and the expiration of two years.

      Section 1. — It shall be the duty of any and all person or persons having claims and demands against each other, who shall have any disputes or difficulties between themselves, which they cannot amicably settle, to refer the same to the chief magistrate and council for adjudication and settlement; and their decision will be final and binding.

      Section 2. — All penalties in this colony shall be a pecuniary fine; and no penalty for any offence shall exceed the sum of —

      Section 3. — The chief magistrate and council shall have power to direct the seizure and sale of any property of any offender sufficient to pay the same against whom a fine has been decreed, whenever it may be found within the limits of Feel Island.

      Section 4. — It shall be unlawful for any resident, settler or other person on the island, to entice anybody to desert from any vessel that may come into this port, or to secrete or harbour any such deserter.

      Section 5. — Any person who shall entice, counsel or aid any other person to desert from any vessel in this port or shall harbour or conceal him to prevent his apprehension, shall be liable to a fine not exceeding 50 dollars.

      Section 6. — All moneys arising from the levy of fines upon offenders shall be a public fund for the use of and belong to the colony; and the same shall be placed in the hands of the chief magistrate for safe keeping, and to appropriate to such purposes as the chief magistrate and council may deem necessary and proper, and a correct account of all expenditures of said moneys shall be kept by them and a statement of receipts and expenditures published at the end of the year.

      Section 7. — All public moneys remaining unexpended at the end of one year shall be equally divided among the present settlers, unless otherwise ordained by a convention of the people.

      Section 8. — Port Regulations. There shall be two regularly appointed and recognized pilots for this port, and by virtue of this section of Art. III, we hereby unanimously appoint James Mottley and Thomas H. Webb as such for a period of two years from the date of this convention. Said pilots may appoint capable substitutes under them, and it shall be unlawful for any other person or persons to perform the duty of pilot. Any one who shall without the authority of either of the appointed pilots attempt to pilot any vessel into or out of this port, shall be liable to a fine equal to the amount of the established rate of pilotage.

      Section 9. — It shall be unlawful for any commander of a vessel to discharge any of his crew in this port without the permission from the chief magistrate and council, and no commander of a vessel shall leave any sick or helpless man or men upon the island unless he procure a house for him or them, and make suitable arrangements for his or their comfort and subsistence during his or their illness.

      Section 10. — Any person or persons not owning land upon this island who may hereafter enter into partnership in trade with a resident and land holder, or who shall purchase an undivided interest in the land of a resident, must enter into written articles of agreement, and obtain a written title to the undivided interest he may purchase in lands, stock &c.; and in the event of dissolution of partnership, or death of either party, partition of the property shall be made by the chief magistrate and council, whose duty it shall be to secure and take charge of the property and effects of any deceased person for the benefit of his friends.

      Section 11. — Any person or persons who shall be guilty of trespass, or waste upon the lands of any of the inhabitants, shall be fined in a small sum equal to the value of the damage or waste he or they may commit thereon, upon a proper adjudication thereof by the chief magistrate and council.

      Section 12. — The chief magistrate and council may when they deem it necessary, call a convention of the people to propose new, and make amendments to the foregoing rules and regulations.

      Section 13. — Any and all persons who shall hereafter emigrate or settle in this colony shall be subject and held amenable to the foregoing rules and regulations.

      All the above articles of government having been prepared, concurred in and adopted by us in convention assembled at the house of Nathaniel Savory in Port Lloyd, Peel Island, on the 28th day of August a.d. 1853. — We solemnly pledge ourselves to each other to support and carry out the same.

      In testimony whereof we have hereunto subscribed our names the day and year aforesaid.

      Commodore Perry purchased a piece of and from Savory, with the object of, when necessary, using it as a coal wharf, and the following deed of transfer was drawn up and signed by the contracting parties: —

      Be it known, that on this fifteenth day of June, n the year of Our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, I, Nathaniel Savory, born in .he U. S. of America, and twenty-three years a resident of this island, having in the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-six located, staked out and held as my own property according to the usage of the island, all that certain portion, parcel or piece of ground fronting on what s called the Ten Fathom Hole, the same being a >art of the bay or harbour of Port Lloyd in the laid island commonly called and known at present as Peel Island, including the entire and both sides of the creek which empties into the said harbour called the Ten Fathom Hole, and which said piece or parcel of ground has a front on the said harbour of Ten Fathom Hole of one thousand yards, more or less, with a depth from low water mark of five hundred yards more or less between parallel lines, all of which said piece or parcel of ground together will the creek hereintofore mentioned. I have and do by these presents, sell, transfer, assign and make over unto Commodore W. E. Perry of the II. S. Navy, here present accepting and acknowledging due delivery and possession thereof for himself, his heirs and assigns forever together with all my right, title and interest whatsoever thereunto appertaining.

      The said sale is mode for and in consideration of the sum of fifty dollars and other benefits, and which said sum of fifty dollars with other benefits the said Nathaniel Savory hereby acknowledges the receipt thereof and grants acquittance therefor

      Thus done and signed in the island known as Peel Island, on the day, month and year first above written, in the presence of Edwin Fithian and J. Green, lawful witnesses above the age of twenty-one. The words interlined "more or less" approved.

Witnesses
        Edwin Fithian.
        John Green.

      Commodore Perry also appointed Savor; the guardian of his property and certain animals which he left on the island with the following authority: —

U.S. Steam Frigate "Susquehanna."     
Fort Lloyd, Peel Island, June 15th, 1853.     

      Sir, — I give you charge as my agent of the piece of ground this day purchased of you by me, and request that you will forbid the cutting of timber, or any trespass thereon on pain of penalties of the law.

Respectfully,                                               
Your obedient servant,                       
M. C. Perry.           

Mr. Nathaniel Savory,
        Port Lloyd, Peel Island.

U. S. Steam Frigate " Susquehanna."           
Fort Lloyd, Feel Island June, 15th, 1863.     

Sir: — I hereby appoint you agent to look after and take charge of certain live stock landed from the ship for the purpose of improving the breed of animals useful in husbandry, the pasturage of this and the neighbouring islands being abundant. And I have to direct that none of the said animals be killed until after the expiration of five years from this date, recommending at the same time that the bulls and cows be permitted to multiply even after that time, in view of furnishing to the farmers of the islands a sufficient number of cattle for the plough and other agricultural and useful lurposes. I also appoint you agent for the U. S. Squadren under my command at the Bonin Islands, to look after the comforts and interests of any one who may land at the islands from said squadron, and to take charge of all property belonging to said squadron, or to the United States, and you are invested with authority to act accordingly.

      One man named John Smith belonging to the U.S. Naval Service will be landed from this ship to assist you in the duties entrusted to your charge and he will have orders to refer to you for advice and instructions.

      I have caused your name to be placed upon the books of this ship for pay and provisions, and you are consequently attached to the navy of the U.8., and possessed of all the privileges and immunities to be derived therefrom.

      The John Smith referred to above was left on shore with six months provisions, but the Commodore, wishing no doubt to prevent quarrelling as far as possible, left no liquor behind. Smith was charged to keep a log and note the arrival and departure of all vessels coming and going, names of captains, cargo, &c., and to notify deserters from vessels that they would not be shipped in the U.S. squadron, as well as to notify all persons found harbouring deserters from U.S. men-of-war that they would be punished according to law.

      These particulars were obtained from documents in the possession of Mrs. Savory, who most resolutely refused for any consideration to part with the originals, and it was with some reluctance that a copy even could be obtained. What became of the cattle left behind by Commodore Perry we are unable to say; for so far as we are aware the principal animals on the islands are wild hogs and goats, which abound in great numbers. — Aug. 13.

"The U.S.S. "Alert's" Explorations."
      The Japan Gazette, A Fortnightly Summary of the Political, Commercial, Literary, and Social Events of Japan.
Vol. XXVIII, No. 4 (Yokohama, Thursday, August 25, 1881)
      pp.96-98

Bonin Islands  Source  Whalesite