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chap.iv.] WEEKS ISLAND. — VOLCANO ISLANDS. 129

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      VOLCANO ISLANDS, three in number, were discovered in 1543 by Bernard de Torres, and received their name from the volcano on the central island. There is no doubt of their being the same as the Sulphur islands of Captain King in 1779. They were also seen by Krusenstern in 1805. The southern island is named San Augustino, the centre Sulphur island, and the northern San Alessandro.

      San Augustino, the summit of which is in lat. 24° 14' N., long. 141° 20' E., is a single hill of a square form, flat at the top, and 396 feet high.

      Sulphur island is about 5 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and its summit is in 24° 48' N., 141° 13' E. The south point of the island is a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and when seen from the W.S.W., presents an evident volcanic crater. A low narrow neck of land connects this hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into a circumference of 9 or 12 miles, and is of moderate height. The part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and a green appearance, but that to the north-east is barren and full of detached rocks, many of which are white. Dangerous breakers extend 2 1/2 miles to the east and 2 miles to the west from the middle part of the island.


      King in Cook's Voyages, 1779; the longitude is probably 3 or 4 miles too much to the East.

130 BONIN ISLANDS. [chap.iv.

      San Alessandro, the northern island, is a single mountain of considerable height, and its peak, which is of a conical shape, is in 25° 14' N. 141° 11' E.

      Forfana island, which has not been seen since its discovery by the ship San Juan in 1543, is said to be in lat. 25° 35' N., long. 143° 00' E.

      SEBASTIAN LOBOS or Grampus Islands. — The Grampus group, discovered by Captain Meares, in April 1788, consists of three islands, two of which are close together, and the third to the south-west of them. The south-west island is assumed to be in 25° 10' N., 146° 40' E. The Sebastian Lobos, with which these are supposed to be identical, are nearly in this latitude. Meares does not give their position, but Krusenstern places them from his track in 25° 40' N. Another island of this name is inserted on the chart in lat. 25° 40' N., long 153° 55' E., and is probably taken from the old Spanish charts. Its existence is exceedingly doubtful.

      Tree island, placed on the charts in lat 26° N., long. 146° 15' E., is not otherwise known.

      The MALABRIGOS or Margaret islands, in lat. 27° 20 N., long. 145° 45' E., are a group of three islands seen in 1773 by Captain Magee They have been considered to be the Malabrigos islets (bad shelter) of Bernard de Torres in 1543, and their position required to be verified.

      ARZOBISPO or BONIN ISLANDS were formally taken possession of by Captain F. W. Beechey, H.M.S, Blossom, in June 1827. They consist of three groups or clusters, viz., Bailey group to the south, Beechy group in the centre, and Parry group to the northward, the whole extending in a N. by E. direction from the parallel of 26° 30' to 27° 50' N. They had no signs of ever having been inhabited. The climate is excellent, and the soil productive. In 1853 there were a few whites and Sandwich islanders, 36 in all, settled on Peel island.

      BAILEY GROUP were first visited by Mr. Coffin, in 1823; they were named by Captain Beechey in 1827. A reconnoissance of these islands was made in 1857.

      HILLSBOROUGH ISLAND (the largest of the group) is 7 1/2 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., 1 1/4 miles wide, 1,471 feet high, and the greater part hilly and rocky. There are some wild hogs upon it, fish is abundant, and turtle plenty in the season.

      Off the north point and north-west points of the island, dangerous reefs and rocks extend to seaward some distance.

      New-port on the south-west side of the island is 2 miles wide from the main to Plymouth island, which it fronts and partially shelters. The harbour is deep in the centre.

chap. iv.] BEECHEY GROUP. — PORT LLOYD. 131

      With the exception of New-port, in lat. 26° 36' N., long. 142° 9' E., and a small cove just northward of it, there is no place on the shores of any of the islands suitable for a coal depĂ´t, nor can New-port or the cove be recommended as places suitable for such a purpose. They are both open from S.W. to N.W. and the holding ground is not good, being sand and rocks; vessels could, however, always get to sea on the approach of a gale. The Plymouth anchored in 14 fathoms about half a mile from the head of the port.

      From the south-west point of the island a continuous line of reefs and islets (terminated by a narrow island) extend to a distance of 2 1/2 miles.

      KELLY island lies to the south-east 3 miles from Hillsborough, and is 1 mile long and half a mile wide.

      PERRY ISLAND lies 2 miles to the westward, and is 1 1/4 miles long and half a mile wide: a rocky patch lies three-quarters of a mile to the south-eastward of Perry island.

      Supplies. &mdaash; Both wood and water may be procured, the latter from a small stream near the head of the cove to the northward of the anchorage.

      TIDES. — It is high water at New-port, full and change, at 11h. 32m., and the rise of tide is 3 1/2 feet.*

      BEECHY GROUP consists of three islands, of which Peel island, the largest and most southern, is 4 1/4 miles in length. The northern island is named Stapleton, and the centre one Buckland. This group is 9 1/4 miles in length, and is divided by two channels so narrow that they can only be seen when abreast of them. Neither of them is navigable; the northern on account of rocks, which render it impassable even for boats, and the other on account of rapid tides and currents, which, as there is no anchoring ground, would drift a ship on to the rocks.

      PEEL ISLAND is 4 1/2 miles long, and about 890 feet high; its origin evidently is volcanic, the hills being well wooded and watered: this island was first inhabited in 1830.

      Knorr island lies off the south-west end of Peel island and has several rocks and islets in its vicinity.

      Sail rocks, 60 feet high, lie to the northward of Knorr island.

      PORT LLOYD. — The entrance to this harbour, on the western side of Peel island, is well defined, so that it can scarcely be mistaken. Before entering it would be well to place a boat on the shoal which extends South fully 2 cables from the eastern point of Square rock (260 feet high), lying off the northern point of entrance. The shoal can, however, be easily seen from aloft even when there is no swell on, and its centre is awash with a


      * Lieut. Balch, U.S. ship Plymouth.

132 BONIN ISLANDS. [chap. iv.

smooth sea. A coral rock, with 8 feet water on it, lies about a cable's length northward of the Southern head.*

      Supplies. — Peel island, as well as those surrounding it, is chiefly visited by whale ships, and its products, therefore, are such as to suit their wants. Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruits of various kinds, together with wild hogs and goats, can be procured from the few whites and Sandwich islanders settled at Port Lloyd. Wood is good, and plentiful; and water can be had, though in limited quantities, and slightly tainted by the coral rocks from which it springs. The best watering-place is in Tenfathom Hole; but it will be necessary to be cautious of the sharks, which are very numerous.

      DIRECTIONS. — Having ascertained the position of Port Lloyd, steer boldly in for the Southern head, taking care, when approaching from the southward, not to bring it northward of N.E. 1/4 E., nor shut it in with two paps on the north-east side of the harbour, and which will be seen nearly in one with it on this bearing. In this position they are a safe leading mark; to the southward of this line there is broken ground.

      In a sailing vessel, if the wind be from the southward, which is generally the case in the summer season, round the Southern head, at the distance of a long cable's length, close to the sunken rock, which will be distinctly seen in clear weather. Keep fresh way upon the vessel, in order that she may shoot through the eddy winds, which baffle under the lee of the head, and to prevent her coming round against her heln, which would be dangerous. She will at first break off, but will presently come up again; if not, be ready to go about, as the vessel will be close upon the reefs to the northward, and the helm must be put down before the south end of the island, off the port to the north-westward, comes on with the west side of Square rock.

      If the vessel comes up, steer for a high Castle rock, at the eastern part of the port, until a pointed rock (white on top with bird's dung, and looks like an island) on the sandy neck eastward of the Southern head comes in one with a high sugar-loaf-shaped grassy hill southward of it; after which bear away for the anchorage, taking care not to open the sugar-loaf again to the westward of the Pointed rock. The best anchorage (Ten-fathom Hole excepted, which it will be necessary to warp into,) is at the northern part of the port, where the anchor is marked on the Admiralty plan.


      * See Plan of Port Lloyd, No. 1,100; scale, m = 4 inches. In this plan the longitude of Ten-fathom Hole is given as 142° 11' 30" E. The Master of the U.S. ship Susquehanna gives the longitude 5' farther East. In a meridian distance measured from Hong Kong with 5 chronometers, interval 33 days, Collinson, in 1852 made the longitude of Port Lloyd, 142° 15' E., assuming Hong Kong as 114° 10' 48" E.

chap. iv.] BEECHEY GROUP. — PORT LLOYD. 133

      In anchoring, take care to avoid a spit extending off the south end of the small island near Ten-fathom Hole, and not to shoot so far over to the western reef as to bring a rock at the outer foot of the Southern head, in one with some black rocks, which will be seen a short distance to the south-westward. The depth will be 18 to 20 fathoms, clay and sand. The anchorage is fair, though open to the south-west.

      If the wind be from the northward, turn to windward between the line of the before-mentioned sugar-loaf and Pointed rock, and a north and south line from the Castle rock. This rock, on the western side, as well as the bluff to the northward of it, may be passed close to, if necessary. The hand lead will be of little use in beating in, as the general depth is 20 or 24 fathoms.

      ANCHORAGE. — Port Lloyd is easy of ingress and egress, and is safe and commodious although the water is deep, vessels usually anchoring in from 18 to 22 fathoms. The best position, Ten-fathom Hole excepted, is as high up the harbour as the vessel can go, so that she has room to swing and veer cable.

      TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Lloyd at 6h. 8m., and springs rise 3 feet.

      FITTON BAY, at the south-east angle of Peel island, is 1 1/4 miles deep and nearly a mile wide at its entrance, and is enclosed by perpendicular rocks; this bay affords good anchorage, but is open to the S.E., and as the winds from this quarter blow generally during summer, it will be prudent not to anchor there during that season. On the north side of the entrance there is a large islet connected with the north bluff of the bay by a reef, and to the southward of the entrance lie some sunken rocks; ships should therefore not close the land in that direction so as to shut in the paps (at the north-east angle of Port Lloyd) with the south bluff of the bay.

      Goat island, in lat. 27° 7' N., lies off the west entrance to the channel between Peel island and Buckland Island (the centre of the Beechy group); it is about 300 feet high, and is surrounded by rocks and islets.

      BUCKLAND ISLAND lies to the North of Peel island and is 3 1/2 miles long (N.W. and S.E.); it has off its south-west side a small sandy bight.

      Walker bay, the sandy bight above mentioned, affords good anchorage, but vessels must be careful in bringing up to avoid being swept out of soundings by the current. An island connected to the main by a reef lies on the west side of this bay.

      Little Goat Island lies to the westward of Buckland island, and a little over half a mile to the north-west of the island above mentioned, and is connected to the main by a reef.

134 BONIN ISLANDS. [chap.iv.

      STAPLETON ISLAND, the most northern island of the Beechey group, is also of volcanic origin, its surface is hilly interspersed with large tracts of fertile land.

      There is a small bay on the western side, which appears to be deep, surrounded by rocks, and the mountains here rise from 800 to 1,500 feet in height; a small promontory divides the bay, and on the land bordering the north part is a spring of capital water which issues from a rock.

      Supplies. — There are a great many goats which have become wild, and the same supplies may be procured as at Peel island.

      Kater island, in lat. 27° 30' N., long. 142° 15' E., lies in the channel between the Beechey and Parry groups. It is about 1 1/2 miles long (N.W. and S.E.), and is surrounded by rocks in every direction.

      PARRY GROUP. — The northern cluster is composed of small islands and pointed rocks, and has much broken ground about it, which renders caution necessary in approaching it. They extend 9 miles in a N.E. by N. and S.E. by S. direction.

      CAUTION. — When in the vicinity of the Bonin islands, the navigator must exercise considerable caution, as the currents both in direction and force (especially between the islands) are uncertain. See page 10.

      ROSARIO or Disappointment island, in lat. 27° 16' N., long. 140° 51' E., and about 70 miles W. by N. from Peel island (Bonin group), is small, being only about 1 mile long, east and west, and its highest part 148 feet above the level of the sea. It is rugged, apparently unsusceptible of cultivation, and surrounded by numerous isolated rocks. The surf breaks heavily all around it, and landing is impracticable.

      Abreojos. — A shoal inserted on the charts, in lat. 22° 0' N., long. 129° 15' E., and which appears on the old Spanish charts, is not otherwise known. An island was reported by a whaling vessel as being near this position, but has not since been seen. It is however probable that the island or shoal exists, but its position is very uncertain.


.  .  .  . 

Source.
Navigating Lieutenant Frederick W. Jarrad, R.N.
      The China sea directory. Volume 4. Comprising the Coasts of Korea, Russian Tartary, the Japan Islands, Gulfs of Tartary and Amur, and the Sea of Okhotsk; ....
London: Hydrographic Office, Admiralty.
1873
pp.129-134.

This transcription was made from the volume at Google Books.


Last updated by Tom Tyler, Denver, CO, USA, Nov 3 2022.

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