Anthology  Contents  Index  Source  Whalesite

PREFACE.

      This Manual of Seamanship and Gunnery has been written for the use of Boys under training for Her Majesty's Navy. It is arranged so as to meet the various instructions laid down in the Training Regulations, and contains full information in all matters which boys are required to learn. I trust it will prove interesting and useful to them. My principal object has been to explain everything simply and clearly, so that a boy may the more readily understand the practical teaching he receives daily in the course of his training, and so enable him to pass with greater facility from one thing to another, and prevent his becoming a "backward boy." With proper attention to his Instructors, and reading this book carefully at leisure times, he may prepare himself thoroughly for the Quarterly Examinations, on which the credit of the boys and of the ship to which they belong, must depend. I have included everything that a First Class Boy ought to learn; and I also intend it as a connecting link to another book called "The Young Seaman's Manual," which I have also compiled for the use of the young seamen of the Navy, and which treats more fully of a seaman's duties.

      Such portions of the Training Regulations printed by Authority, considered useful for the guidance of boys, have been added, so that a boy can easily ascertain all the advantages therein held out to him by continuous good conduct; he will learn what are the qualifications for good conduct badges, and their advantages; also the qualifications for the rating of First Class Boys-in short, everything connected with the Training Regulations with which it is necessary that a boy should be acquainted.

      I wish to add here a few words by way of advice to the boys

      I would impress upon a boy's mind who has selected the Navy for his future career in life, that he has chosen one of the most honourable professions, that of defender of his country, one in whose hands very often its honour and standing with other nations is entrusted. He should ever keep in mind that the Navy has always been considered the right arm of England; most highly esteemed by his countrymen, and of which every Englishman is naturally proud. This being an acknowledged fact, two things are required of every boy, and these should never be lost sight of by him-viz., honesty of character, and a determination to become master of his profession. The latter he has every opportunity of accomplishing. He is received into the Navy at an early age, and at a great expense to the country ; he is trained to fill with credit to himself the highest position it is possible for him to attain; al-

ways provided his conduct will justify it, for all the training in the world will avail nothing if good conduct is not added to good qualifications.

      It is to this, therefore, that I would specially call the attention of every boy joining a training ship; it will not take him long to distinguish between the good and bad boys; then let him avoid the latter in every possible way. Boys of good character are allowed to land from the ship twice a week for a walk, or to see their friends if they reside in the neighbourhood ; my advice therefore is, prize this privilege without infringing upon it, as any deviation from the rules often leads a boy into loose habits, and the first step down the ladder of destruction is commenced.

      A mean, or cowardly boy, will sometimes rather run the risk of incurring the displeasure of his superiors; by wilfully breaking the regulations laid down for his guidance, than stand the scorn and derision of the bad boys, who will in every way induce him to do wrong, and laugh at him for being afraid if he refuses. But the brave, honest boy, who fears nothing but the displeasure of his commanding Officer for direct disobedience of orders, his great aim is to conquer all difficulties and go forth into the service maintaining a good character, continuing in the path he has marked out for himself, which is to lead to the top of his profession. These are the boys who eventually are promoted to one of the most valuable classes of Officers in the Navy – viz., Warrant Officers.

      I would therefore ask each boy on first joining a Training Ship to consider these remarks, which are offered for his future good, and to remember that rules must be strictly obeyed, and that leave is a privilege granted him for recreation, to use and not to abuse, When on shore avoid all intoxicating drinks and the use of tobacco in every shape. Never enter a publichouse. Make this, on joining the Navy, the fixed principle of your life-allow no inducement to cause you to turn aside from the path you have marked out. When on board pay strict attention to your instructions; be cleanly in your habits; careful of your kit; always ready to obey orders, remembering that implicit obedience is one of the chief ingredients required in making a good sailor. A boy that does this, will finish life as he has commenced it-a credit to himself and the Service.

      If you commence life in a Training Ship with dirty habits, in. attention to your drills, and a disregard to good order when on shore, you will leave it with an indifferent character; if you start badly, you may be sure you will end your course badly; perhaps be dismissed the service with disgrace, or discharged from your first ship on paying off as an objectionable character, being ever after shunned by your old shipmates as a man unworthy of being known, thus becoming a burden to yourself; and die at an early age, unregretted and uncared for.

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

 The distinctive mark of a Distant Signal is three Pendants hoisted together, which is used as a "Preparative," "Stop," and "Answer."

      Three Pendants at the Main Truck denotes that the Distant Signals will be used by the Ship which hoist them; when hoisted after any of the Symbols have been shown, they denote that the number of the Signal terminates there.

      When hoisted in reply to a Distant Signal, it is an affirmative answer to that Signal.

      Two Pendants over a Triangular Flag is the negative answer, and also annuls the accompanying Signal, a Signal just previously made, or one which will immediately follow.

      A Pendant between two Square Flags is interrogative of the accompanying Signal, or one which is to follow immediately.

      When hoisted in reply to an ordinary Flag Signal, it signifies that the Flags cannot be made out, and that the purport must be communicated by Distant Signal.

      If a Distant Signal consist of two hoists (at the same Masthead) between the displays of the three Pendants, the first hoist represents Tens, and the second Units.

      If the Signal consists of three hoists between the displays of three Pendants, the first hoist represents Hundreds, the second Tens, and the third Units.

      If the Signal consists of four hoists between the displays of the Pendants, the first will represent Thousands, the second Hundreds, the third Tens, and the fourth Units.

      When these Signals are made from the same Masthead, each figure must of course be expressed by a separate and distinct hoisting of the Symbols; but when it may be possible to show the numbers of a Signal together, by hoisting them at different places, they are to be displayed and read in the usual order, as given in Art. XII. of the "Instructions Relating to Signals," as in the following example:

[Click on image to enlarge.]

      A Ship using the Distant Signals should endeavour to place herself broadside on to the point addressed, and should, if possible, hoist the whole of the Signal at once at the different Mastheads.

      If this is not practicable, the Signalling must commence with the display of three Pendants is a preparative, and when answered the rest of the Signal is to follow in order.

      If a particular Ship is addressed, the Compass Signal, denoting her bearing from the Ship making the Signal, must first be displayed.

      As Signal Flags can only be depended upon when their colours are distinctly visible, an important opportunity of communicating at sea is often lost because distance or haze prevents the Signal from being made out.

      A Code of Distant Signals has therefore been introduced into the Commercial Code Signal Book, with the view of supplying what- is obviously a defect in existing Codes.

      The practice of making Distant Signals, with the combination of a Ball with Fags, is of very old date, and the plan may be found in obsolete Signal Books as well at in the Admiralty Codes.

Whilst, therefore, there is nothing new in the method now introduced, as regards the Symbols employed, the design has been to adapt in the simplest way the use of these Symbols to the Commercial Code of Signals, adhering, at the same time, as nearly as possible to the principles originally, laid down by the Signal Committee of 1855.

      Hence the characteristic of the Distant Signal is the Ball; one Ball at least appearing in every hoist of the Distant Code. With respect to the two other Symbols, they may be Pendants or Flags of any colour; that is to say, any of the Code Pendants or Code Flags may be employed irrespective of their colour. It will be seen from the Plate of Distant Signals, that the Code has been so arranged as to give the least possible trouble in finding the combination required; thus –

The first column contains all the combinations having the Ball or Balls first or uppermost in the hoist.

The second column contains all the combinations having the Ball or Balls second or separated in the hoist.

The third column contains all the combinations having the Ball or Balls last or lowermost in the hoist.

      The Semaphores, or Signal Stations established on the coast of France, have, wherever practicable, the means of intercommunication by Electro-Telegraphic Wires with each other, and with the chief Metropolitan, Provincial, and Foreign Telegraph Stations.

      By the method hereafter described, passing vessels will be able to exchange communication with these Semaphores, and their messages will be received, and, if required, forwarded to their destination according to the established Tariff of Rates.

      Although at present there are no similar facilities of communication placed at the Service of Shipping frequenting the coast of the United Kingdom, it is believed that should Signal Stations be hereafter established, the French system affords the simplest means of Signalling by Semaphore between the shore and Ships in the offing, at a distance whence the colours of Flags would not be distinguishable.

      At a moderate distance the Signal Flags of the Code can, of course, be used by both Ships and Signal Stations, but the Distant Signals should on all occasions be employed by Ships when it is found that the Code Flags cannot be made out.

      The Semaphores are furnished with three Arms. When at rest the Arms are not visible. When at work the position of the Arms in the three directions, indicated in the Plate (page 229), represents respectively the three Symbols used in the Distant Signal Code.

      The Semaphore Signals will consequently be, always read off as Distant Signals, the position or direction of the Arms indicating respectively the Pendant, the Ball, or the Flag.

Semaphores.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

[Click on image to enlarge.]

The Symbols to be employed are:

1. Two Square Flags, or Pieces of Cloth.  }
2. Two Whelfs, or Strips of Cloth.            }of any colour.
3. Two Balls, Bundles, or Hats.                }

      By means of the above Symbols, all the Signals of the Distant Signal Code may be made, as shown above. Handkerchiefs, Hats, Buckets, or Baskets, may be used in making these Signals; and, if no Mast, Pole, or Spar is handy, these Signals can be made by holding the Hat, Bundle, or other Symbol at arm's length. The Signals will be made from right to left, and be read off from left to right.

      Note. – It is necessary, however, in using the proper means to attract attention, to avoid those which may occasion confusion.

Salutes. [Click on image to enlarge.]

      Salutes may be classed under two heads-namely, those purely Naval, and those which are both Naval and Military. The former are used when not in formation or when in boats, the latter when in any formation or when under arms.

      The purely Naval Salute is taking the hat or cap off.

      When not in formation, and addressing an Officer, take the hat off.

      When in a boat, and unoccupied with oars or boat-hook, stand up, if an Officer is passing within sight, and take off hats, remaining so till salute is returned.

      When coming on the quarter-deck, either from below or forward, when passing the mainmast, touch your hat with your right hand, taking edge between your finger and thumb, as if about to take it off.

      When passing an Officer between decks, touch your hat as before directed, only using the off hand when doing so, looking him direct in the face.

      If standing about between decks or sitting in your messes, stand up and salute, if with hat on, at attention, if it is off, until ordered to sit down, always fronting towards the person saluted.

      When on shore passing an Officer, salute with off hand, looking him in the face, and keeping hand to hat till you are well past him. The salute should begin five or six paces before reaching the Officer.

      Should an Officer be passing at a distance, so long as you can make out that he is either a Naval or Military Officer, he is to be saluted whether he is looking towards you or not.

      Naval and Military Salutes are used when under arms, or when acting in formation under the orders of some superior, when no individual has a right to move unless the order is given by such superior ; thus, when marching, orders are given on passing an Officer "Eyes right," or "Eyes left," the order being "Eyes front," when past him.

      A company of men passing an Officer, "Shoulder arms;" they also do so on passing a sentry or guard, who in their turn present arms to any body of armed men, passing their post.

      No body of men have a right to move from the position they are placed m, unless ordered to do so by some superior authority; thus, if a squad are standing at ease by order, they should remain so, even if the Admiral were passing them.

      In saluting, it should never be forgotten that in paying respect to a superior a man is paying respect to himself; for if he is ashamed of his duty, he must be so of his profession, and therefore should not be in it.

      Never salute with a hand in your pocket.

      Never salute with a cigar or pipe in your mouth.

      Always front and stand attention when saluting, unless when moving on.

      Lastly, let it be remembered that there is no excuse for passing an Officer unseen; your duty is to see; eyes are put into people's heads to see; you are bound to look about yon and allow no Officer, either Naval or Military, to pass without being saluted, whether he sees you or not.

      Any want of attention to these instructions will be severely punished; if neglected, they show a want of proper discipline, which it is necessary should at once be corrected.

      All Officers, from Midshipmen and Warrant Officers upwards, are invariably to be saluted, and the boys, whilst under training, are to salute both the Schoolmasters and Instructors belonging to their own ship.

      When a boat is called away, the crew will man their boat, sit down on their thwarts, and wait for orders from the Coxswain.

      The outer-bowman will cast off and coil down the painter, the inner-bowman holding on with the boat-hook.

      The stroke-oarsman nearest the ship uses the stern boat-hook, and the remainder of the crew see their oars clear and in order by their numbers, the stroke-oars being nearest the boat's side, and, unless ordered to the contrary, unship their poppets.

      Note: – The inner-bowman always holds on or attends the boat rope; the outer bowman fends off. Stroke-oar nearest ship's side attends boat-hook or stern-fast.

      The crew get hold of their oars, and, watching the stroke-oarsmen, will toss them up together, placing the looms on the bottom boards between their feet, every oar upright, blades "bore and Aft," dressed by the after-oar each side, with the hand nearest boat's side just below the leather, midship hand as low as possible, body upright.

      Note: – This is the position of "Tossing Oars."

      The bowmen shove the, bow of the boat off, toss their boat hooks upright, wait a pause, boat them together, sit down on their thwarts, haul their fenders in, unship their poppets, and then toss their oars up together.

      The remainder of the crew haul their fenders in at the order "Shove Off."

      The stroke-oarsman nearest ship keeps stern clear, then places his boat-hook amidships, with head aft, sits down, and tosses his oar.

      At the order "Down," lift the oar about a foot, and let it fall quietly into the rowlock. All oars to be horizontal, and blades feathered

      Note: – This is the position of "Laying on Oars."

      "One" – Lean aft, straighten the arms, turning the knuckles down as the blade goes forward, bringing the blade square. All the oars to be parallel with the stroke-oar, the blade just clear of the water.

      "Two" – Place the blade in the water, and pull the loom towards you, dropping the elbows and wrist as you arrive at the

end of the stroke, taking the oar out of the water, and come to the position of "Laying on Oars."

      Note. – A pause of about three seconds is to be made between each order, until all the crew thoroughly understand feathering their oars; as they improve, the interval to be lessened.

      "Oars" – At the order "Oars," which will follow the caution, complete the stroke, and come to the position of "Laying on Oars:"

      "Oars." – At the order "Oars," the starboard stroke-oarsman looks over his shoulder, and, at the completion of the stroke, gives the word "Up," when all the oars are to be tossed together, placed and held in the position of "Tossing Oars."

      Note. – If oars are to be laid in, the caution will be "Stand by to lay in your Oars," and after the oars are tossed, "Boat your Oars," at which order they will be laid down quietly in rotation from forward, boat them, square the looms, and ship the poppets.

      "One" – At the word "One," lean back a little, bring the loom close to the chest, blade clear of the water, and perpendicular.

      "Two" – Place the blade in the water and push from you, bringing body upright, feathering the oar by turning your hands away from you, and return to the position of "Laying on Oars."

      "Hold Water" – Oars to be held perfectly steady, all the blades the same depth in the water.

      "Bows" – The bowmen will look towards each other and toss their oars together; wait a pause, boat their oars, ship poppets, out fenders, stand up on head sheets, and then toss their boathooks up; remainder of the crew out fenders.

      At the order "Way Enough," give one stroke after the order. Oars to be tossed together by the word "Oars" from the starboard stroke-oarsman, as in "Tossing Oars,"

      Stroke-oarsman nearest ship will boat his oar and attend stern boat-hook.

      First hands up slip gripes. Each man on entering the boat will put his cork jacket on, and take his place on his respective thwart as quickly as possible.

      Stroke-Oarsmen see plug in, safety-pins out of after-hook, and attend after-lizard.

      Bowman – Out safety-pins of foremost-hook, attend boat-rope, and see it ready for slipping, boat-hooks ready for use.

      Second thwart attend lizard.

      Coxswain. – Have whip clear for slipping; and ship "Tiller". The rest of boat's crew sit down and hold on to "Life-lines."

      Single-banked boats (Galleys and Gigs), and all boats fitted with crutches "Lay on Oars." Double-banked boats (Launches, Pinnaces, Barges, and Cutters) "Toss Oars" to Admirals, Captains, and the Officer Commanding their own ships, in all other cases "Lay on Oars." When saluting, the Coxswain stands up and takes his hat off. Boats towing do not Lay on or Toss Oars, the Coxswain only stands.

      Boat-keepers will stand up and take their caps off to all Officers; and when boats are coming alongside or leaving the ship, go to the bows of the boat, ready to haul ahead out of the way.

      When under sail or on a wind, ease the sheets; running, lower the sails.

      Should a boat manned, but having her oars laid in, be passed by an Officer, the men are to stand up and take their caps off, the Order being given by the Coxswain if present.

      Silence is at all times to be kept in boats, and the crew properly dressed. Strict attention must be paid to this rule, as nothing shows a bad state of discipline more than a noisy and slovenly boat's crew. When a boat is required to be manned to leave the ship, the pipe will be –

      "Away Galleys," or whatever boat is required, "Away (name of boat)," always means that the boat is going to leave the ship.

      If the boat is to hook on or moor, the pipe will be as follows –

      "First Cutters Hook on."

      "Second Launches Moor your Boat."

      Never stand or sit on the gunwale, or stand on thwarts.

      As a rule, masts to be got down before going alongside in harbour, at sea it should always be down. Oars are not to be tossed going alongside a ship at sea, but thrown out of the rowlock, blade forward, and boated at once; and on leaving, blades to be

lifted clear of gunwale, and the oar brought aft into its rowlock at the order "Out Oars."

      If a sail does not set properly, shifting the strop two or three inches in or out on the yard will often correct it. If carrying too much weather-helm, shift the weights further aft; if lee-helm, further forward. Never belay a sheet, and always keep halliards clear. Luff to the wind, and ease the fore-sheet in a squall; and, in lowering the sail, always hauling clown on the luff.

      Boat's crews learning to pull are to have their thwarts changed, so that they may pull as well on either the starboard or the port side, also that their acquaintance with the duties of stroke and bow-oars may be ensured ; and they are to be taught the names of parts of boat and oars.

      No boy to be stationed in a boat until he has passed through these pulling instructions.

      To ensure working together, the orders, with the previous caution, are always to be given as laid down hereafter –

SEAMANSHIP.

      Q. Name the decks of a three-decked ship?

      A. Ships termed in the Navy three-deckers, are so named from having three batteries or gun decks under the upper deck, but they actually have five decks, viz., upper, main, middle, lower, and orlop deck, such as the "Impregnable" and "St. Vincent" training ships for boys; the "Britannia," training ship for Naval Cadets; the "Excellent," gunnery ship at Portsmouth; and the "Duke of Wellington," receiving ship at Portsmouth.

      Q. Name the decks of a two-decked ship?

      A. So named from having two gun decks below the upper deck, but in reality, a ship termed a two-decker in the Navy has four decks, – viz., upper, main, lower, and orlop decks, such as the "Boscawen," "Implacable," and "Ganges," training ships for boys.

      Q. Name the decks of a frigate?

      A. Upper, main, and lower decks; a frigate has only one gun deck below the upper deck; the main deck.

      Q. Name the decks of a corvette or smaller vessel?

      A. Upper and lower decks; the upper deck is the gun deck.

      The arrangements as to decks, holds, &c., of an iron-clad are quite different to a regular built frigate.

      An iron ship, iron plated, is built in compartments (water tight).

      For example. – The "Resistance" and "Defence "class.

      The main deck is divided into three compartments, named the after; battery, and fore compartments.

      All below the main deck is divided into flats, entirely separated from each other by water-tight partitions.

      A separate hatchway and ladder communicates with each flat from the main deck, therefore there is no possibility of getting from one flat to another, without again going on the main deck.

      There are about thirteen flats in the "Defence" class, named according, to the use the flat is appropriated to.

      Q. Name the yards, masts, and spars, in a full-rigged ship?

      A. All spars take their names from the mast to which they belong, viz., foremast, mainmast, mizenmast, fore topmast, main topmast, mizen topmast, fore topgallant and royal mast, main topgallant and royal mast, mizen topgallant and royal mast; the topgallant and royal mast are in one. Bowsprit, jib-boom, and flying jib-boom are the spars projecting from the bows. The lower yards are named fore and main yards, and the lower yard on the mizenmast is called the cross-jack-yard, on which no sail is set. The topsails, topgallant, and royal yards are named fore, main, or mizen, according to which mast they are attached, dolphin-striker, and spritsail-gaff on bowsprit. Topmast studding-sail booms on fore-yard; topgallant studding – sail booms on fore and main topsail yards; they are seldom carried on a mizen topsail-yard. Trysail masts are small masts placed abaft the lower masts to which they are attached, for the purpose of setting the spanker and fore and main trysail on. The spanker, or main boom, is the spar projecting over the taffrail, the inner part is fitted to the mizenmast in a ship, and to the mainmast in a brig, by two cleats or chocks of wood called jaws, forming a semicircle round the masts to keep them in place.

      Q. Name the parts of a topsail?

      A. Head, leeches, and foot; the top is the head, the bottom is the foot, and the sides are the leeches; the clews are the two lower corners, they are formed by the foot and leeches; the head-earing cringles are in the upper corners, formed by the head and leech-ropes.

      Note. – This applies to all square sails.

      Q. How many bands has a topsail?

      A. Six bands: four reef-bands, a belly-band, and a foot-hand.

      Q. What is a reef-band?

      A. Double part of canvas across a topsail or course, for working eyelet. – holes for the reef-lines.

      Q. What is a belly-band?

      A. An extra cloth of canvas across the belly of a topsail or course, below the fourth reef-band of a topsail, and the second reef-band of a course, to strengthen the sail midway between the lower reef and foot.

      Note. – This applies to either sail.

      Q. What is a foot-band

      A. An extra part of canvas along the foot of the sail.

      Q. What is a mast lining?

      A. An extra part of canvas on the after part of the topsail, to take the chafe of the topmast and cap, extending from the third reef band to the belly-band, and about two cloths in width.

      Q. What is a top lining?

      A. Double part of canvas on the after part of a topsail, to take the chafe of the top, extending from belly-band to foot in length, and in width according to the size of the ship.

      Q. What are the buntline cloths?

      A. Double part of canvas on the fore part of a topsail, to take the chafe of the buntlines, extending in an angular direction, from foot to belly-band.

      Q. What is a reef-tackle patch?

      A. Extra part of canvas, to take the strain of the reef-tackle of a topsail.

      Q. What is a goring cloth?

      A. A side cloth of a topsail cut obliquely, or lining of a topsail, called by sailmakers the leech-lining.

      Q. What is the tabling of a topsail, or any other square sail?

      A. Double part of the sail to which the bolt rope is secured.

      Q. What are eyelet-holes?

      A. Holes, with small grummets sewn in them, formed in the tabling and reef-bands, for the cringles, robands, reeflines, and buntline toggles.

      Q. What are cringles?

      A. A strand of rope worked through two eyelet holes in the leech of the sail round the bolt rope, for reef earrings, bowline bridles, and reef-tackle pendants.

      Note. – Head earring cringles are spliced in the leech rope.

      Q. Are all the cringles fitted alike?

      A . No, the reef-earring and reef-tackle cringles have thimbles in them, to take the chafe of the reef-earrings and reef-tackle pendant, also to prevent the earrings jamming, and insure their rendering easily.

      Q. What are robands?

      A. Pieces of sennit plaited round the head rope of a topsail, or any other square sail, for securing it to the jackstay.

      Q. Are all robands alike?

      A. No; the midship roband is round rope, so that in shifting topsails, the captain of a top will readily distinguish

it from the other robands, and as soon as he ascertains the topsail is clear of turns, and on the right slew, he at once secures the midship roband as near the centre of the yard as possible, so as to prevent the men at the yard-arm from hauling the sail more out to one yard-arm than to the other; mid-ship robands are secured round the tye-block, or blocks; if fitted with a double tye, your sail should be fitted with two midship robands.

      Q. What is a bolt rope?

      A. The rope secured round the sides of a topsail to the tabling, or any other square sail.

      Q. Is a foot rope secured to a topsail, or course in a similar way to the leech and head rope?

      A. No, the foot rope being wormed, parcelled, and served, it would be impossible to get a needle through it; it is therefore marled to the topsail or course.

      Q. What are head-earrings?

      A. Pieces of rope spliced into the head-earring cringles, for the purpose of hauling the head of the topsail, or any other square sail, out to the head-earring strops, and taut along the yard. They are fitted with a long eye; it forms a double part when rove through the head-earring cringle.

      Q. What is a reef-earring?

      A. Reef-earrings are pieces of rope, in size according to the size of the leech-rope, as when a topsail is reefed the reef-earring, when passed is supposed to bear the same amount of strain as the leech-rope.

      The first and second reef-earrings are fitted with a running eye round the yard-arm, outside the lifts; they are in length twice and a half the depths of the reefs, i.e., the first reef-earring is twice and a half the depth of the first reef, and the second reef-earring twice and a half the depth of both first and second reefs.

      The third and fourth reef-earrings are spliced into the eyelet-hole in the lower part of the third and fourth reef cringles, forming a long eye sufficient to admit of both parts of the eye going round the yard and through the thimble of the reef-cringle again. The two parts of the earrings forming the long-eye are marled together, the bight being seized to the eyelet-hole. The other end of the earrings are hitched as follows: the end of the third reef-earring is rove through the second reef earring-cringle, and bowline knotted to its own part, and the end of the fourth reef-earring in a similar way through the third reef-cringle.

      What is a gasket?

      A. All gaskets on lower and topsail yards are made of sword matting, cut to the required length, and fitted with an eye in each end. The upper eye is fitted with a lanyard, it is secured to the head rope of the sail. The proper length to cut a gasket is half the round of the part of the yard the gasket is to go on.

      For topgallant and royal yards the harbour-gaskets are made, the upper part of French and the lower part of English sennit, an eye is formed in the upper part in making the gasket and seized to the jackstay of the yard.

      Sea-gaskets, are made all through of English sennit: an eye is formed in the outer end, which is seized to the yard-arm, the gaskets being long enough to pass roundabout-turns round the sail and yard, from yard-arm to quarter, the inner end being secured to the jackstay.

      Q. What is the difference between a bunt and yard-arm gasket?

      A. All bunt-gaskets are of sword matting, and the lanyards are spliced in the lower instead of the upper eyes. The upper eyes, for a course or topsail, are seized to the head ropes of the sail. For topgallant or royal yards they are seized to the jackstays. Bunt-gaskets always cross in the middle, and are secured to opposite quarters.

      Q. What is a bowline bridle?

      A. Pieces of rope spliced into the bowline cringle, as follows:

      For a fore and mizen-topsail, the upper bridle is spliced, the upper end to the upper bowline cringle, and the lower end in the middle bowline cringle. The lower bridle the upper end, is spliced round the upper bridle, and the lower end in the lower bowline cringle.

      The bridles are in length (when fitted) once and one-third the drift of the cringles.

      The upper one is served two-thirds up, and the lower one two-thirds down.

      For a main topsail, the upper end of the upper bowline bridle is spliced in the upper bowline cringle, the lower end to the second cringle. The lower bridle the upper end is spliced into the third, and the lower end into the fourth cringles. The middle bridle the upper end is spliced found the lower part of the upper bridle, and the lower end round the upper part of the lower bridle.

      The upper and middle bridles are served two-thirds up; and the lower two-thirds down.

      The length to cut a bowline bridle is one and two-thirds the drift from cringle to cringle.

      Q. What is a clew-hanger?

      A. A piece of 1? or 2 in. rope, according to the size of the topsail, about two fathoms in length; they are generally spliced round the upper part of the parrel; when the sail is furled, they are passed round the clew, and hauled taut back to the parrel again, where they are secured.

      The clew-hangers on a lower yard are fitted in a similar way, only spliced into the truss strop instead of the parrel; sometimes they are spliced in the jackstay in the bunt of the lower yard.

      Q. How do you know a main from a fore or mizen topsail?

      A. The main has four bowline bridle cringles, and a fore or mizen has only three.

      Q. How do you know the fore from the after part of a topsail?

      A. The roping is sewed on the after part of all square sails.

      Q. What would be the consequence if a topsail or any other square sail was bent, with the roping part forward?

      A. The stitches would chafe through, and the sail would blow out of the bolt ropes.

      Q. How is the bead-earring secured?

      A. The end is rove through the thimble of the head-earring strop, from up down, and through the head-earring cringle from down up; these are called the two outer turns, it is then passed four times round the yard and through the head-earring cringle each time; these are called the four inner turns; the end is then clove hitched round all parts of the outer turns, and expended round them or the jackstay; thus, the number of turns taken with the head-earring are two outer and four inner.

      Q. How do you secure a roband?

      A. A roband is passed round the jackstay, over, and under, and through the eyelet-hole in the head of the topsail, or any other square sail, and secured with a clove-hitch.

      Q. What are reef-lines?

      A. Lines running across each reef-band on fore part of a topsail, from leech to leech, secured to the upper eyelet-hole of the reef-cringle.

      Q. What are naval lines?

      A. Lines running across the after part of a topsail, from leech to leech, for the purpose of securing the reef-lines, the ends of the naval lines are also secured to the upper eyelet, holes of the reef-cringles.

      Q. What is a spilling line?

      A. A line up and down the fore part of a topsail, for spilling the sail when reefing.

      Q. How is a reef-line secured by a naval line?

      A. Trice the sail up by the first reef-cringles, and haul it well taut, pass your naval line the aft side of the sail, making, it fast to the cringles, and heaving well taut.

      Well stretch your reef-line, measure the length of your reef-bands and allow a foot extra for every three holes, the length to cut your reef-line.

      Commence reeving your reef-line in the centre, and work both ways; the man that works to the right will pass the line through the hole under the naval line, and receive back over, the man that works to the left will pass it over and under, and so on to the end, securing it to the upper hole in the cringle, and splicing it to its own part; the other reefs in the same manner.

      Q. What is the use of a reef-tackle?

      A. To light the sail out to the yard-arms in reefing arm shifting topsails.

      Q. What are slab-points?

      A. Slab-points are reef-points, rove through the eyelet-hole, and the reef line and naval line rove through them on their respective side.

      In recording the force of the wind, and state of the weather, the following scheme is to be adopted: –

      By the combination of these letters all the ordinary phe-

nomena of the weather may be recorded with certainty and brevity.

      A. By a piece of bright red tape, sewn on the sleeve of the blue serge and a piece of blue dungaree on the sleeve of the white frock worn on the right arm by the starboard watch, and on the left arm by the port watch.

      Q. Are there any other marks of distinction?

      A. Yes; all above the rating of A.B. wear a badge of distinction on their left arm – viz.

A chief petty officer: anchor and crown and wreath of oak leaf.
First-class petty officer: cross anchors and crown.
Second-class petty officer: anchor and crown.
Leading seamen: anchor.

      Gunnery instructors: a crown over cross-gun, rifle, and sword.

      First-class seamen gunners: a crown over a gun.

      Second-class seamen gunners: a gun.

      These distinctive badges are now worn on the right arm.

      All seamen of good character are now entitled to good conduct badges, of the following colours

      The distance between badges is to be three eighths of an inch.

      Each watch is divided into two parts, and in large ships' companies, where there are a great number of men, it is found necessary to again divide the parts into sub-divisions.

      Q. In working ship, with the hands on deck, how are the watches divided

      A. The starboard watch work the starboard side of the deck, and the port watch the port side of the deck.

      Q. Working ship with the watch only, how is the watch divided

      A. The first part, the starboard side of the deck, and the second part, the port side of the deck.

      Q. How is the day and night divided into watches?

      A. The twenty-four hours is divided into seven watches – viz., afternoon watch, from noon to 4 o'clock; first dog watch, from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.; second dog watch, from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.; first watch, from 8 p.m. to midnight; middle watch, from midnight to 4 a.m.; morning watch,

from 4 a.m. to 8 a.m.; forenoon watch, from 8 a.m. noon.

      The dog watches, being of only two hours each, and all the other watches four hours each, is the cause of the watches changing every twenty-four hours: thus the watch that had the first watch last night, would have the middle watch to-night; by this plan, each watch has in turns eight hours on deck every other night at sea, and eight hours in their hammocks likewise, every other night.

      Q. How is the time denoted on board ship

      A. By striking a bell in the following way: –

      Thus it will be found, that the number of bells denoting the time from six to eight o'clock in the last dog watch differs from the number of bells denoting the same hour in the morning watch, on account of commencing them again with the last dog watch.

      Q. How is the crew divided into messes?

      A. Master at arms, seaman-schoolmaster, and ship's steward have a mess place amidships.

      The chief petty officers mess alone; 1st class petty officers mess alone.

      The remainder of the crew are divided into messes, with , an equal number of each watch forming the mess, so as to insure half of each mess below at a time for cleaning the mess deck &c. – two petty officers generally in a mess.

      Q. Where do the crew mess?

      A. In a line-of-battle ship, on the lower deck, one mess in each space, between the guns,

      In an iron-clad, in the battery compartment, two messes in each space, between the guns.

      In a frigate, or smaller vessel, on the lower deck, an equal number of messes each side of the deck.

      The marines always occupy the after messes on each side of the deck in all ships.

      The boys are equally distributed among the messes.

      Q. How are the hammocks berthed?

      A. The numbers are arranged in rotation, commencing forward, and working aft, the numbers running athwart ships; by which plan, with a watch on deck, every other hammock is empty.

      The boatswain's mates sleep close to the hatchways, ready for a call at the shortest notice.

      Boys are berthed in the fore part, or one side of the main deck, under the charge of a sentry and a ship's corporal.

      Every one of the ship's company (and officers not provided with cabins) have two hammocks supplied to them; they are numbered for the crew with the number corresponding to their number on the watch bill; in the case of an officer, they are distinguished by a letter and number also.

      One set is marked with a white figure on a black patch, and the other with a black figure on a white patch.

      Marines with red figures, one on a white, and the other on a black patch.

      Q. Where are the hammocks stowed?

      A. In the hammock nettings, which are fitted all round the upper deck; on top of the bulwarks.

      A bag is also supplied to each man and boy, for keeping their kit in, bearing their number on the watch bill; thus it is easily ascertained (by referring to the watch bill), when a hammock or bag is found knocking about the decks, to whom it belongs.

      Q. Where are the bags stowed?

      A. In the bag-racks, which are erected in a line-of-battle ship in the fore cockpit.

      In a frigate, forward on the lower deck, or round the deck, under the mess tables.

      In an iron-clad, in the bag rack flat.

      Describe the use of the following knots, bends, and hitches, and the mode of making them: –

      Q. How do you knot yarns?

      A. Take the ends of two yarns, split them in halves about 2 ins, down, marry them together and form a reef-knot, with the opposite ends as nearly as you can; yarns are knotted for the use of the rope-maker, for making spunyarn, nettlestuff, or any small rope.

      Q. How do you make a reef-knot, and what is its use?

      A. It is used for reefing sails, fitted with reef points, such as trysails, spankers, and boat sails. First make an overhanded knot round the foot of the sail, then bring the end which is next to you over the left hand and through the bight; haul both ends taut, and it is made.

      Q. What use is a bowline knot, and how is it made?

      A. A bowline knot is used for sending a man aloft, or one down from aloft, for riding down stays, backstays, making of pair of slings, and many other purposes. Take the end of your rope in your right hand, and the standing part in your left, lay the end over the standing part, then with your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end part, so as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part; then lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down through the cuckold's neck, and so the knot is completed.

      Q. What use is a bowline on the bight, and how is it made?

      A. A bowline on the bight is used when both ends are

occupied, or to send a man down from aloft when he is hurt, as it is much easier to sit in.

      With the bight of a rope in your right hand, and the standing part in your left, throw a cuckold's neck over the bight with the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the cuckold's neck to go under and overall part, haul all taut, and the knot is completed.

      Q. What is a running bowline used for, and how is it made?

      A. It is used for throwing over anything out of reach, or anything under water.

      You take the end of the rope round the standing part, through the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part.

      Q. What is a clove-hitch used for, and how is it made?

      A. It is used for rattling down the rigging. It is made by passing the end of a rope round another rope or spar, over, and bringing it under and round behind its standing part, over the rope or spar again, and up through its own part. It can be stopped or hitched to its own part as required, the only difference between two half-hitches and a clove-hitch is, one is hitched round its own standing part, and the other is hitched round a spar or another rope.

      Q. What is a timber-hitch used for, and how is it made?

      A. For securing the end of a rope to a spar: in towing a spar, always use a half-hitch in addition to a timber-hitch.

      Take the end of a rope round a spar, pass it under and over the standing part, then pass three turns round its own part, and haul it taut.

      Q. What is a Blackwall hitch used for, and how is it made?

      A. For hooking a tackle to a rope, such as setting up lower rigging instead of a cat's-paw, where the end of the lanyard is not long enough to form a cat's-paw, but a strop and toggle is preferable.

      You form a bight or a kink, with the end of the lanyard,

keeping the end part underneath, and the standing part on the top, put the hook through the bight, taking care to keep the bight well up on the back of the book, until there is a strain on the tackle.

      Q. What are two half-hitches used for, and how are they made?

      A. Making the end of a rope fast, such as a boat's painter. You make the knot by passing the end of your rope round the standing part, and bringing it up through the bight, which is one half-hitch; repeat it, and the knot is completed.

      Q. What is a rolling-hitch used for, and how is it made?

      A. Bending a small rope to a large one, putting a tail jigger on a backstay. Make the hitch by taking a half-hitch round the standing part with the end of a rope, and another through the same bight, hauling it well taut in place above the first hitch and the upper part of the bight, and dog the end above the hitch round the standing part, and stop, it back with spunyarn or a ropeyarn.

      Q. What is the use of a sheet bend, and how is it made?

      Making a rope's-end fast to anything, such as a becket of a swab or block.

      Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or through the becket of a block, or a clew of a sail; then round both parts of the bight or becket, and take the end under its own part;

      it is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped back to the standing part; also for bending topgallant and royal clewlines, jib and staysail down-hauls.

      Q. What is the use of a studdingsail halyard-bend, and how is it made?

      A. It is used in bending studdingsail, topgallant, and royal halyards; it allows the yards to go closer to the blocks of sheaves than any other bend.

      Take two round turns round the yard, pass the end from right to left under both turns, then from left to right over one, and under the other turn.

      Q. What is a cat's-paw used for, and how is it made?

      A. It is used for setting up lower rigging. To form it, you first lay the end part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a bight; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side of it, breaking it down and turning it over

from you two or three times; clap both bights together and hook on to both parts. A boatswain's toggle and strop should always be used in preference to a cat's-paw, as it is almost certain to burst the enter yarns of the lanyard.

      Q. What is the use of a sheep-shank, and how is it made?

      A. For shortening in a rope, which requires to be lengthened again, such as topgallant and royal backstays, the rope is doubled in three parts, and a hitch taken over each bight with the standing part of the backstays, and hauled taut.

      Take the end of a hawser and lay it across the top of standing part forming a bight, reeve the end of the second hawser down through the bight thus formed, up and over the cross, and down through the bight again on the opposite side, from the other end; one end will then be on top, and the other underneath, one each side of the standing part; if both ends come out on top, it will form a granny's knot.

      Form a bowline knot in the end of the first hawser, dip the end of the second hawser through the bight of the first bowline knot, haul sufficient end through, and form a bowline knot with the second hawser, leaving a bight to each bowline at least a fathom long.

      Make a half-hitch in the end of the first hawser, leaving a bight at least a fathom long, reeve the end of the second hawser through the bight of the first hawser, haul end enough through on both hawsers to have at least four feet end, put a seizing on about two feet from the half-hitch, on each hawser, and stop the ends to the standing part.

      Q. How do you sling a cask?

      A. There are several methods of slinging a cask, either with a pair of butt slings, bale slings, or a bowline knot. A cask should always be slung, bung up, or on its head; should one of the heads be defective or out, a bowline knot is used for this; it is very useful, for the instruction of boys, to have small miniature casks slung in the different ways, and hung up in a conspicuous part of the ship, set apart for seamanship instruction.

      Q. What is the use of an inside clinch, and how is it made?

      A. For securing the standing part of a reef tackle round the goose-neck or any other rope that you wish to jamb.

      Take the end over and under its own part, and inside, put two seizings on opposite each other, they are called the throat and quarter seizings; exactly the same as are used for turning-in lower rigging.

      Q. What is the use of an outside clinch, and how is it made?

      A. For securing the standing part of a rope topsail sheet, or any rope you wish to let go smartly.

      Take the end over and under its own part and outside, put the two seizings on exactly the same as for inside clinch.

      Q. How do you put a jigger on a backstay?

      A. With a rolling hitch.

      Q. How do you pass a stopper?

      A. By taking a half-hitch round and against the lay of the rope, and lashing the end of the stopper in the lay.

      To make the Knot. – Pass the end of a rope over the standing part and through the bight. It is used for the end of running rigging, or any rope rove through a block or sheave to prevent it unreeving

      To make the Knot. – Pass the end of a rope over and round the standing part, up over its own part, and down through the bight. It is used for the end of running rigging, or any rope rove through a block or sheave to prevent it unreeving.

      So called, by many persons, is simply a rolling-hitch, made by two round turns round a spar, and two half-hitches round the standing part.

      Take two round turns with the end of a rope round a spar, or through the ring of an anchor, take one half-hitch round

the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns, then on half-hitch round the standing parts above all, stop the end to the standing part, instead of taking the last half-hitch, tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it becomes a studding-sail halyard bend.

      An eye is spliced in one end, the other end is passed round the head of the hammocks, and rove through the eye, and hauled taut, this forms the standing part of the lashing which is brought along the hammock, the other part being passed over and under at regular intervals, hauling each turn well taut, after passing the last turn the end is tucked under it, and the bight of the remaining part expended up the standing part of the lashing and under the two last turns. Seven turns are the correct number to take in lashing a hammock up, leaving an equal distance between each turn.

      A marline hitch is used for many other purposes, such as seizing the double part of the strop together of the fish-block that goes over the fish davit head, also for securing the foot of a course or a topsail to the foot rope, and for marling down the strands of a splice before serving over it.

      All the ring-bolts for breechings, in fact, all ring-bolts not used for hooking tackles to, are generally hitched over for neatness. It can be done with one, two, or three ends.

      Is made by placing the marline-spike upon top of the end of the seizing you are going to heave taut, the end part is then brought over the marline-spike, forming a round turn; the marline-spike is then brought back under the standing part of the seizing, and up between it, and the other part of the round turn thus formed; the greater strain you bring on the seizing, the more the end jambs and prevents it from slipping.

      If used for hook of a tackle, the hook is passed down between the round turns.

      Q. Describe the use of the following splices: Long-splice, short-splice, and eye-splice, and the mode of making them?

      A. A splice is considered to weaken a rope one-eighth. A long splice is used in joining any running gear together that has been carried away, such as braces, clew-lines, &c., or any gear required to reeve through a block: when well done it does not enlarge the rope.

      Unlay the ends of the two ropes to the length of five and a half times the circumference of the rope, crutch them together in a similar manner to a short-splice, unlay one strand, and fill up the vacant space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it, then turn the, rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite the respective lays, unlay one, filling up the vacant space, as before with the other. Take one-third out of each strand and knot the opposite strands together, and heave them well in place, stick all six ends once under one strand; having stretched the splice well, cut the ends off.

      A short-splice is used for joining standing rigging, or any gear not required to travel through a block, strops of blocks, &c.

      Unlay the rope to the required length, which is twice the circumference of the rope for the long ends, and once and a half the circumference of the rope for the short ends; when this is done, whip all the ends with a yarn, then crutch them together, put a stop round the crutch, the long ends are put in twice, and the short ends once, pass the left hand strand over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope, then enter right hand strand, and lastly the middle strand, in a similar manner to the first or left-hand strand, haul them taut along the lay of the rope, being the long ends, put them in again as before, cut the stop of the crutch, and put the short ends in

once in a similar way, stretch the splice, whip the ends, and cut them off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, the strands in once and a half each way, take a few of underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends, and marl them down ready for serving.

      An eye-splice is used in forming an eye for any common purpose, lower lifts, &c., and made by opening the end of a rope, and laying the strands, at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, according, to the length of the eye it is intended to make. Divide the strand by putting one strand on the top, and one underneath the standing part, enter the middle strand, having opened the lay with a marline-spike, and stick it under its respective strand, take the next end over the first strand and under the second; the third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other side. With a four-stranded rope, put the left-hand strand under two strands or two lays of the rope and cover it with the next strand.

      Q. How do you make a grommet?

      A. Cut a strand three times the length of the grommet required, allowing end enough also in addition for finishing it of. Middle the strand, lay the right-hand end over the left, and lay the strand-up again until the rope is re-formed, then tuck the ends and finish off, as in a long-splice.

      Q. How do you make the following knots, and what are their use: – Matthew Walker, Stopper-knot, English shroud-knot, French shroud-knot?

      A. Matthew Walker knot is used for the standing part of the lanyards of lower rigging, and many other purposes

      Unlay the ends of a rope, and take the first strand round the rope and through its own bight, and the second end round the rope underneath through the bight of the first, and through its own bight, take the third end round the same way underneath, and through the bight of all three, haul the ends well taut.

      Stopper-knot is used in the end of stoppers, it is usually formed by double walling, in some cases crowned; there is

however, no necessity for this; heave the ends together, seize and cut them off to within three ins. of the knot. But the best method of making a stopper-knot is to wall and half-wall it, put a good whipping on about two or three inches from the knot, and cut the ends off. A stopper-knot made this way will never capsize. A stopper-knot made with a double wall will capsize when a great strain is brought on it.

      Shroud-knots are used when a shroud is shot or carried away.

      Unlay the ends of the shroud you are going to splice, and commence in a similar way to a short-splice, then single wall the ends of one rope round the standing part of the other, and wall the other three ends in the same manner; open the ends of the strands and take out a few yarns from each, and lay them in for worming; taper the remainder down, and serve over them with spunyarn.

      You place the ends of the two part similar way of the shroud, in a similar way to forming an English shroud-knot, drawing them close together, then lay the first three ends upon their own part,

      and single-wall the other three ends round the bights of the first three ends and the standing part, taper the ends, marl them down, and serve over them. This knot is much neater than the English shroud-knot.

      Q. How do you make a Turk's head, and what is it used for?

      A. It is used for the foot ropes of jib and flying jib-booms and spanker-booms, being much neater than overhand knots, also for man ropes and Jacob's ladders; it is generally made of white line or nettle-stuff.

      Take a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk's head on, cross the bights on each side of the round turn, and put one end under the cross on one side, and the other end under the cross on the other side, after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all round, and finish it off.

      For reefing sails: make the point by taking five foxes and

middling them, working them down sufficiently to form the eye, viz., 3 ins., place the two parts together, which will give the eye 1-1/2 ins.; after having formed the eye, work down 6 ins., then leave out the short end, and work the point to the length required.

      Q. How do you make a sea-gasket, or English sennit?

      A. Take three or four foxes (if intended for tyers it is made of yarns) according to the size you intend to make the gasket, middle them over a belaying-pin and plait three or four of them together, the length you intend to make the eye, then work both parts together to form an eye, and plait them by bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately over to the middle; the outside one is laid with the right hand, and the remainder held firmly with the left hand; work the whole together, adding a fox when necessary; after the eye is properly formed, and you have worked three or four inches down, drop a fox or yarn, and continue to the end with an odd number. When it is a sufficient length, lessen it by dropping a fox at regular intervals. To finish it, lay one end up, leaving its bight down, plait the others through this bight, until they are all worked through it, then haul on the end, till the bight is taut; to secure all parts, cut the ends off, and whip it.

      Q. How do you make a harbour-gasket, or French sennit?

      A. With foxes something similar to the common sea-gasket, but instead of taking the outside fox over all the rest and bringing it into the middle, you interweave it between them by taking the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over one and under the other, working it towards the middle, the same as common sennit.

      Harbour-gaskets, for lower and topsail-yards, are made of sword matting, and cut off to the required length, leaving enough end to form a Flemish eye each end of the gaskets. Gaskets made of French sennit are only used for topgallant and royal yards, and are always finished off the same as a sea-gasket, by working the ends with English sennit.

      Q. What do you mean by worming a rope, and what use is it?

      A. To fill up the vacant space between the strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope to render the surface smooth and round for parcelling and serving, to give it a neat appearance. The strops of gun-tackle blocks are wormed.

      Q. What do you mean by parcelling a rope?

      A. Parcelling a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips of old canvas dipped in tar, from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope, before serving it; each turn of the parcelling should overtop the other, in fact, like tiles on the roof of a house.

      Q. What do you mean by serving a rope?

      A. The service is of spunyarn, put or hove on by an instrument called a serving mallet, it has a score in the under part, according to the size of the rope, so as to lay on the rope, and a handle about fifteen inches long. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope; a man passes the ball of spunyarn, taking the turns well out of it, at some distance from the man that is serving the rope. When the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off. All standing rope likely to be chafed, is always served.

      Q. How do you strop a block?

      A. There are various ways of stropping a block, depending upon what they are required for. First. There is the common strop, used for all general purposes, which is formed by short-splicing the two ends of a rope together, forming a ring, in which the block and thimble, or hook and thimble is seized.

      For this purpose the rope is got on a stretch. All above 3? ins. is wormed, parcelled, and served; below that size is only served with two or three yarns, spunyarn: cut the rope for the strop off, the length depending on what the strop is required for. If it is intended to put the ends in twice one end, and once the other, put a chalk mark, or a stop, on the piece of rope already cut to length, at twice the round of the rope from one end, and once and a half the round of the rope from the other end; then unlay the strands to the chalk marks or stops, heave the service back, crutch them together, close up to the chalk marks or stops, and enter your strands, as if making a short-splice, only taking great care to marry your splice slack, so as when you come to stretch the strop the strands will draw down in place and form a neat strop. If it is not intended to serve the strop over, put the chalk mark or stop at twice the round of the rope each end, and put the strands in twice each way. By putting the strands in once and a half each way, you make a neater strop, especially if it is intended to serve over it. After your strands are tucked, and the strop has been well stretched,

cut the ends off, work the service up to the splice, and finish it off; the strop is then ready for placing the block and thimble in place. When the block and thimble are in place, put a temporary seizing on, and with a couple of small wedges made for the purpose, set the block well in place, until the splice of the strop takes well in the score of the ass of the block; take the temporary seizing off, and heave the strop between the block and thimble well together with a Spanish windlass, then pass the seizing for a full due.

      You proceed exactly the same as if stropping a block with a thimble. The length to cut the strop depends upon what it is required for, the size of the eye is generally once or once and a half the round of the rope.

      To strop a block with two lashing eyes is merely putting an eye-splice in each end of the strop after it is cut to length and before the block is seized in place; the length of the eyes are from once to once and a half the round of the rope.

      The strop is sometimes cut long enough to admit of the strop and tail being in one; and it is also fitted separately, the tail being spliced in a thimble seized in the crown of the strop; the latter is by far the better plan, as it can be replaced at pleasure, which is at times most convenient, as the tail invariably fags out before the strop is half worn.

      After the rope is cut to length, unlay the strands; each strand will form a strop; thus, one length of rope will make three strops; lay each strand up, as if making a common grommet and worm them, the block and thimble is then seized in place, as in any other strop.

      These strops are always used for gun-tackles.

      Lash two hooks, or seize two bolts at the length the strop is required apart, then pass roundabout-turns sufficient with whatever you intend making your strop, until you have it to the required thickness, then pass marling-turns all round, taking care each part of the strop has equal strain, it is either grafted over or covered with leather, the block and thimble

are then seized in place. These strops are frequently used for boom-sheet and reef-tackle blocks for boom-mainsails.

      According to the size of the rope, it is got on a stretch and wormed, parcelled, and served, or only served; it is then cut to length, and the two ends short-spliced together, the block is placed, and the four parts of the strop seized together, the two bights forming two lashing eyes. These strops are used for quarter-blocks on lower yards for topsail sheets, lower yard brace-block, upper or masthead jeer-blocks.

      These strops are also used for double-scored blocks, such as lower jeer-blocks, or topsail brace-blocks. After the strops are cut to length, the ends are short-spliced together, each strop is placed on the block separately, and the four parts of the strop seized together. In the case of lower jeer-blocks, one strop is fitted longer than the other.

      After the strop is cut to length, which will be three times the round of the block and once the round of the thimble and rope, put a mark on each end at once the round of the block, unlay the strands on each end to the mark, marry their together, and put a temporary seizing on to keep them in place, then unlay each strand and make them into nettles, divide the nettles when made equally, picking up every alternate nettle and graft both ways from where the strands are married, finishing off on the quarter, then seize the block, or block and thimble, in place. A strop thus made is considered to be three times the strength of a common strop.

      A jew strop is used when a single-scored block is required to be given a particular stand in the absence of a double-scored block; for instance, it can be used with efficiency in the event of a lower jeer-block being carried away, and having no double-scored block to replace it. It is merely fitting a single block with a long lashing eye, working a grommet round the eye which rests round the strop between the lower yard and the crown of the block, the eye goes round the yard in a similar way to the long eye of a lower jeer-block, up before all, and is lashed to the grommet.

      Q. How do you turn a dead-eye in, and mark the shroud for cutter stay fashion?

      A. After all the shrouds are over the masthead, and steadied taut alike by means of strands round the shrouds, and rove through the lower dead-eyes with as much strain as they will bear, mark the rigging off for turning in as follows: Put a mark on the foremost and after shroud about 6ft. from the channels, fasten a line to the mark on the foremost shroud haul it taut aft, and secure it to the mark on the after shroud, then mark each shroud where the line cuts, which will be for the lower part of the dead-eye, then put another mark below it, at the distance of half the round of the dead-eye, and once the round of the rope, which will be the mark for the nip or crown of the dead-eye; then bring the end round the standing part of the shroud so as to have the marks in their proper places, the ends of the shrouds in and aft, and heave the two parts together, as close as the standing part of the shroud will allow, by means of a Spanish windlass, put a rope-yarn strop to keep them in place, and then put the seizings on, place the dead-eye, and beat the nip of the shroud well down, this is done by putting a good strand over the nip and beating it down with a commander, until the shroud takes the score of the dead-eye in all parts.

      N.B. In Portsmouth Yard a racking-seizing is now used, instead of a throat and quarter-seizing, as formerly.

      Q. What should be most attended to in turning rigging in?

      A. To keep the lay in the rope, to prevent the wet getting in.

      Q. How do you reeve a lanyard for setting up lower or topmast rigging?

      A. For lower rigging, the, standing part is either secured by a single wall-crowned or a new stopper-knot, or by being spliced round a thimble in an eye-bolt in the chains. A Matthew Walker is liable to capsize.

      The standing part of a lanyard for the topmast rigging is secured by either a Matthew Walker knot in the end, or a running-eye round the lower dead-eye.

      The end is first rove through the after hole in the upper dead-eye from in out, then through the after hole in the lower dead-eye from out in, and so on until it is rove in full.

      When the rigging is hemp, the lanyard is half the size of the shroud; when wire, the lanyard is the same size as the shroud.

      Q. Describe the mode of rattling-down the rigging

      A. The rope to be used for the ratlines should be well stretched. Before commencing; to rattle-down, put two swifters on each side, and slightly frap the shrouds together in a fore and aft line, mark the foremost shroud all the way up 15 ins. apart for the foremost eye of each rattling, then place spars about 5 ft. apart, parallel with the sheer pole, all the spare ends of spars should be aft; otherwise they will interfere with lower yards and sails going up; the two lower ratlines are of larger rope than the others, and sufficiently strong to bear the weight of the number of men who crowd there at the order "man the rigging," waiting for orders to go aloft; great care should be taken that the marline-spikes in use for rattling-down should be fitted with lanyards, and either worn round the neck of the man at work, or hitched round the shroud. In sparring and rattling the rigging, commence from below, thus insuring both being placed horizontally; ratlines are clove-hitched on the intervening shrouds, and seized to the foremost and after one but one. Every fifth ratline is taken to the after-shroud, which is called a catch ratline.

      Splice a small eye in one end, hitch your rattling stuff round the third shroud from aft, then round each shroud in succession taking care the hitches are all formed the same way; lower part of hitch aft, seize the eye to the foremost shroud with two-yarn, nettle-stuff, with about 3 in. drift, after the hitches are all hove taut round the shrouds, splice an eye in the other end, and seize it, in a similar way to the fore, to the after shroud but one; if a catch ratline, to the after shroud; every man should be furnished with a thin batten 14-1/2 ins. long, to measure between the ratlines, that they may be all square with the sheer pole; the batten should be held perpendicularly between the ratlines, and not with a rake, the same as the after shroud, which are four or five feet longer than the foremost shrouds; when all the ratlines are in place, ease up the frapping.

      Q. How do you point or graft a rope?

      A. Put a stop on at once the circumference of the rope from the end or eye, which will leave about the length for pointing or grafting, unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the strands, split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of each yarn; when the nettles are made, stop them back on the standing part of the rope; then form the

point with the rest of the yarns, by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other one up, and every other one down; pass three turns with a piece of twine which is called the warp very taut round the part where the nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn, continue to repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, passing the warp, or filling, taking a hitch each time until the point is to its required length; you can either form a bight with the last lay by passing the warp through the bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or work a becket in the end, by taking a small piece of rope one fourth the size of the rope, form a bight, unlay the ends, and twist the six strands up again by twos, take some of the inside yarns and lay them up as rope, then short-splice that and the becket together and marl it down.

      Q. How is a reef-becket and toggle fitted?

      A. The becket is a piece of 2-inch rope with a long eye in one end, the other end being well whipped, in the bight of the eye a toggle is seized, the becket is then rove round the jackstay of the yard to which it belongs, and is seized with the toggle uppermost; in reefing, the other end of the becket is rove through the reef-line, and hauled up, until the eye is high enough to go over the toggle. Toggles are fitted to the jackstay in pairs, one being for the first and third-reefs, and the other being for the second and fourth reefs. In taking in the third and fourth reefs the first reef-beckets must be untoggled when taking in the third reef, and the second reef-beckets when taking in the fourth reef. When the first and second reef-beckets are let go in taking the third or fourth reefs in, care should be taken to haul the slacksail taut up by the slab-points. Slab-points are now usually fitted to all topsails, about four of a side, or more if necessary, according to the size of a topsail. This precaution is very necessary; if the slacksail was allowed to hang down abaft the yard in a gale, and beat about, it would chafe the sail through. A preventer jackstay is generally fitted for the second and fourth reefs, so as all the strain should not be on one jackstay.

      Form the eye with five parts of spunyarn, then work down

with nine ends, work 1-ft. 2-ins., then form an eye with five parts one side, and four parts the other, make the eye 7-ins., then marry and work down with the nine ends 1-ft. 2-ins. more, put on a good whipping at the end and the lower part of the eye.

      N.B. – For small ships form your eye with four parts, and work down with 7, as above.

      A good strand, well greased in the centre, is generally used for this purpose; place the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to be hove together, and bring the ends of the strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand, take the ends of the strand and lay them up with their own parts (so as to form a bight), take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a bolt or marline-spike through each bight, and heave round. A bolt is the best, as a marline-spike is apt to slip.

      It is made of two or three yarns laid up together by a jack; it is also made by hand, by twisting them between the thumb and finger, and laying them up against the twist of the yarn. They are used for clews of hammocks, for making harbour-gaskets, and other purposes.

      Make two or three yarns fast to a belaying pin, or some other convenient place, stretch them out taut, and twist them together, then rub it down smooth with yarns, or a piece of old canvas; it is used for making gaskets, mats, plaits, and temporary seizings, &c., and many other purposes.

      This is made by taking a single rope-yarn, making one end fast to a belaying pin, untwisting and twisting it up again the reverse way, and rubbing it smooth with a few yarns or a piece of canvas. It is generally used for small seizings.

      Drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any convenient place; or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the same purpose; put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart, according to the length of strop you want, take the ends of the ball of ropeyarns and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take it round the other one, keep passing roundabout-turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until the strop is to the required thickness. If it is

to be a very large strop, marl it down with spunyarn, if a small strop two-rope yarn.

      To make the knot. – Unlay the end of a rope to the required distance for making the knot, with the strands, form three bights down the side of the rope, holding them fast with the left hand.

      Take the end of one strand, and pass it with the lay of the rope over the strand next to it, and up through the bight of the third. Take the end of the second strand over the third, and up through the bight of the first. Take the end of the third strand over the first, and up through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the ends up together.

      This knot is used by men-of-wars'-men to form the eye in their knife lanyards, for going over their heads.

      To make the knot. – Make a single diamond, as before described, laying the ends up. Follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, and the ends will come out at the top of the knot. Point the last strand through two double bights, and steady them, and lay the ends up.

      This knot is used for lanyards of fire buckets.

      To make the knot. – Unlay two ends of a rope to a sufficient length to form the knot, and place them together, making a bight with one strand, walling the six strands together, similar to a single-walling made with three strands, by putting the second over the first, and the third over the second, the fourth over the third, the fifth over the fourth, and the sixth over the fifth, and through the bight of the first. Then haul taut. You can crown it by taking two strands, and laying them over the top of the knot, and passing the other strands alternately over and under those two, hauling them taut. You may also double-wall it, by next passing the strands under the wallings on the left of them, and through the small bights, when the ends will come up for the second crowning. This is done by following the lead of the single-crowning, and putting the ends through the single-walling, as with three strands.

      It is sometimes used for a stopper-knot, and other purposes.

      To make the knot. – Unlay the end of a rope to a sufficient length for making the knot, then form a bight with one

strand, holding its end down to the standing part in your left hand. Pass the end of the next strand round the strand so formed. Pass the remaining strand round the end of the second strand, and up through the bight you formed with the strand. Haul the ends taut with care, one by one. I is used on the end of a rope, rove through a hole to prevent it unreeving, such as the standing part of the throat halyards.

      To make the knot. – Make the single-wall as described and then lay one end over the top of the knot, lay the second end over the first, and then the third over the second and through the bight of the first. It is used on the end of a rope, rove through a hole, in a similar way that a single-wall knot is.

      To make the knot. – Make a single-wall slack, and crown it, then take one end, bring it underneath the part of the first walling next to it, and put it up through the same bight. Repeat the same with the other strands, putting them up through two bights. When made it forms a double-wall and a single-crown. It is used on the end of a rope, rove through a hole, such as throat halyards.

      To make the knot. – Form a double-wall, single-crowned, then lay the strands by the sides of those, in the single-crown putting them through the same bight in the single-crown, and down through the double-walling.

      It is used for man-ropes, stopper-knots, &c., also called man-rope knot, tack or topsail-sheet-knot.

      To make the knot. – Unlay the three large strands of a cablelaid rope, and then the three small strands forming the large strand, which will be nine in all. Lay the large ones up again as before, leaving the small ones out.

      Single and double-wall the small strands (as for a stopper knot) round the rope, worm them along the divisions, and stop their ends with spunyarn.

      This knot is used for a buoy, to prevent the buoy-rope slipping through the seizing.

      This splice is formed by cutting a piece of rope in two and laying the ends over the opposite standing parts of the two

pieces of rope, at the distance you intend your eye to be in length;

      unlay the strands of the ends, and enter them under the strands of the standing parts, in a similar way to making an eye-splice, forming an oblong eye or collar in the bight of a rope. It is generally used for pendants for guys, breast back-stays, &c.

      Having put a whipping on at the distance from the end of three and a half times the round of the rope, unlay the end to the whipping, then lash a piece of wood at least twice the size of the eye you are going to make, securely, in a convenient place for working, by some yarns on top of it, so as to stop the eye down after it is formed. With a four-stranded rope, unlay and divide the heart in two, then put the rope underneath the piece of wood with two strands, and halve the heart each side, pass the two parts of the heart over, and half-knot it on the top, heaving the rope close up to the piece of wood by means of a bolt on each side. The proper width for the eye is one-third the round of the rope. Take from each strand two yarns for every inch the rope is in circumference. Suppose it to be a 12-in. rope, take twenty-four yarns, which twist up and half-knot them on the top of the wood, heaving them taut and passing them down the lay of the rope for worming; clap a seizing of spunyarn over it, close to the toggle, and another 9-ins. below it; make a yarn fast round the ends, to keep them in the lay of the rope, then take two thirds as many-yarns from each strand as you did for worming, haul them taut up from the bosom, and half-knot them on top, haul them taut, and so continue till they are all expended.

      Care should be taken to haul the yarns taut up from the bosom, to ensure them bearing an equal strain. Smooth the yarns down, and put a stop round all, close underneath the wood, then half-knot the stops that are laid on the wood, heave them taut with a bolt each side of the eye; form the other half-knot, and heave it taut.

      The eye is then marled with two or three-yarn spunyarn, the hitches almost 1-in. apart, commencing at the centre of the eye and working both ways, cut the stops as you come to them; when the marling of the eye is finished, pass a strand round all, close underneath the wood, and heave it taut by means of bolts; take a part of the strand off, and put on a seizing of spunyarn, beating the strand down as you marl the yarns down,

      If it is for a stay when the collar spliced and served, the eye is finished by parcelling it, and serving it with spunyarn, when fidded out it is completed.

      Is formed by unlaying one strand to the required distance, depending on the size of the eye you are about to form. The eye is formed by placing the two strands along the standing part of the rope, and crossing the odd strand over the standing part, and laying it in the vacant place you first took it from, filling up the vacancy until the strand comes out at the crutch again, and lies under the other two strands. Take a few yarns out of each strand for worming, and taper the remainder down.

      Put a whipping at twice the round of the rope from the ends of the two pieces of rope you are going to form the splice with, then unlay the ropes to the whippings, twist the outside yarns up into foxes, the number of yarns in each fox will depend upon the size of the rope being used for the splice, for example, about two yarns to every inch the rope is in circumference, leaving about one-fourth of each strand of the inside yarns to be laid up as rope, long enough to tuck the strands once each way, after which take out of each strand a sufficient number of yarns for laying them in the lay of the rope for worming, and cut the remainder off, then form a cross point with the foxes, by bringing the upper fox down, and the lower fox up, and crossing each other all round the rope; then put the last lower fox under the bight of the first upper one that was brought down; and is thus secured. Commence again by putting the end over one fox, and under the bight of the other, and so on until you have worked close up to the whipping, the foxes are then scraped and marled down, and served over with small spunyarn.

      When properly made, the splice will be but very little larger than any other part of the rope, but strong enough to break the rope.

      This splice, being much neater than a shroud-knot, is sometimes made in standing rigging instead of a shroud-knot.

      There is also another way to make a Grecian splice, by making all the yarns into foxes, leaving no heart, but the first way is the strongest and best.

      This splice is also used for tailing a smaller to a larger size rope, when it has to travel through a block such as lower lifts, when the lifts and falls are in one.

      To form the splice. – Heave the turns out of the two ends of the warps you are going to use for this purpose, stretch it well, then beat it with a mallet to make it supple, unlay the strands of both ends to six times the round of the warp, which will be the required length to form the splice; they are then crutched together in a similar way to forming a short-splice, but married much tauter; put a stop round them, to keep them in place, taking care to leave out the strand to be unlaid; you now commence to form the long-splice, by unlaying one strand, and filling up the space it leaves with the opposite strand next to it, to about three times the round of the rope; these strands being composed of three small strands, which are called readies, they are then unlaid and crutched together, a good stop being put round them, leaving out the ready to be unlaid, then unlay one ready, fill up the space it leaves with the opposite ready, the distance of twice the round of the rope, half-knot them together, and stick the end under one strand; or, instead of half-knotting them, lay them across each other, and stick their ends under the next strand to them; then put the end underneath two strands or readies, and the end will come out under the strand, and when cut off will be out of sight. Then take hold of the next two readies that will come opposite their respective lays, unlay the ready, and fill up the space it leaves with the other, the same distance as before, and splice them the same; then the two readies in the place where they were first married, half-knot them, and stick them the same as with the first readies, after which turn the work round, and take the stop off from the place the strands were first crutched together, leave out the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays, and put the stop on again, to secure the two strands that remain, then repeat the process, by unlaying one strand, and filling up the space it leaves with the other, the same distance as before from the place they were married, then unlay the strands, marry the readies together, and long-splice them as before, then turn the work round to the two strands where they were first crutched together, and long-splice the six readies the same as before directed. Well stretch the splice, cut the ends off.

      It is frequently done when the part of a strand is chafed, and the other strands are good; cut the strands at the place where it is chafed, unlay it about two feet each way, then take a strand of a rope of the same size, and lay it in the vacancy of the rope, half-knot, and tuck the ends the same as a long-splice.

      Take the end under and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately, passing over the whole. There should be a marline-hitch at each turn.

      Is generally made in the end of a jibstay when fitted with a slip at the jib-boom end, and has a thimble in it to receive the slip; it is also used for the collars of topmasts and jibstays, for forming the lashing eyes, being quicker made, and quite equal in strength to a Flemish eye, it forms a ropemaker's eye, with two strands round the thimble.

      Unlay the rope eight times the round of the rope, from the end which will be the required length; marl two strands together to the distance of the round of the thimble; form the eye with these strands, to the size of allowing the thimble to go in after it is parcelled; put the thimble in, well-tarring the eye first, then unlay the other two strands, one at a time, and fill up the vacancy with the opposite strand that formed the eye, about two feet from the thimble; unlay the other strand one foot from the thimble, and lay in the other strand that formed the eye, then cross, and stick the ends in once, the same as a long-splice; after which, well stretch the splice, and serve it over with spunyarn.

      A Lashing Eye.

      Put a whipping on at about twice and a half the round of the rope from the end, then enter the marline-spike at the eleventh lay from the whipping, bend the rope up, and form the eye, thus leaving nine clear lays from the strand; the marline-spike is under to the first strand to be entered. Enter the strands once and a half and serve them over with spunyarn.

      The above will be found the right length for a lashing eye for bowsprit-shroud and bobstay-collars, strops for clew garnet-blocks, topsail clew-line, and topgallant sheet-blocks, the inner ends of foot-ropes, &c.

      To form a long-splice with a piece of three and four-strand-rope, such as tailing a royal backstay when used for a fall for the topgallant breast backstays. Unlay the ends of the two ropes to the required distance, and crutch them together, then unlay one strand of the three-strand rope, and fill up the vacancy with a strand of the four-strand rope, turn the rope round, and unlay a strand of the four-strand rope and fill up the vacancy with a strand of the three-strand rope, as far as required; there will 'then remain two strands from the four-strand rope, and one from the three; lessen the latter, by taking one-third out of it, and knot it to one of the strands of the four-strand rope; then unlay the other strand, and fill up the vacancy with the reduced strand of the three-strand rope; then knot them together, and tuck them once under one strand with all eight strands; the splice should be well-stretched before cutting the ends off.

      Another plan is, instead of dividing the strand of the three-strand rope, knot the whole of the strands, and tuck the remaining strand of the four-strand rope under the strands of the rope. This is called sinking a strand.

            Note: – The first plan is the neatest.

      You unlay the ends of the two ropes to a sufficient distance, make four strands out of the three by dividing one strand in two, and lay the four strands up a sufficient length for the ends of the other rope to be put in once, then crutch them together, and splice them as two four-strand ropes.

      Another method for splicing a three and four-stranded rope together for a short-splice is, divide the fourth strand into three parts, and lay one part in with each of the three-strands, arid splice it as a three-stranded rope.

      For a long-splice, work three strands in in the usual way, and when finished tuck the fourth strand in, as convenient, under the nearest strands to it.

            N.B. – This is called sinking a strand.

      This mat is used to take the chafe of the lower yards off the lower rigging in bracing up, and is seized to the lower rigging in the wake of the yards.

      Stretch a piece of rope, according to the size of the mat required, in any convenient place, in a horizontal position and the foxes which are used for making the mat are middled and hung over it, close together, from end to end, or as far as the width required for the mat. Then take the fox nearest the left hand and twist a turn in the two parts; one part give to the man opposite. The next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts, and one part given back to your party, the remainder is twisted round the first, which is given back and then again round its own part; and so on with the remainder of the foxes until you get it the breadth required. The bottom of the mat is selvaged, by taking a piece of rope the same size as used for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted together at the bottom are divided, and the piece of rope put between them; the foxes are hitched round it, and the ends put through its own lay with a marline-spike.

      Q. How do you make a nipper?

      A. Nippers are made in a similar way to a salvagee strop. According to the size of the nipper required, either yarns or foxes are marled together; they are from four to five fathoms in length.

      Get the yarns or foxes on a stretch, make a grommet the size of the nipper required, and fill it up until it fits quite taut round the end of the yarns or foxes, then secure one end of them to any convenient place, put a small tackle on the other end, and steady them well taut; as you pass your marling turns you fleet the grommet along, which presses the yarns or foxes into place, so an equal strain will come on each when the marling turns are passed. Two-yarn spunyarn or a fox, is generally used for marling. Rumble makes very good nippers, and is always used when it can be obtained by the captains of foretops.

      Pudding Fenders are used in the Navy for large boats such as cutters, pinnaces, &c., &c. and sometimes on lower yards, to take the chafe on the inside part of the quarter-yard

fenders are to be worked, one to fit the stem, and two others to fit, one on each quarter, so as to save the sharp edge of the quarters and the stem when lying alongside a ship or boats, or a landing-place; a number at proper intervals are also worked along each side of the boat, projecting far enough to save her sides also from chafing.

      It is so named from resembling a horse-shoe in shape, and is used for joining topmast shrouds or backstays when there is an odd one of a side, and it is desired to form an eye on the bight; it is also used sometimes for gib-guys. It is formed by splicing the two ends of a piece of rope into the topmast shroud or backstay, one end on either side of the bight; where the eye is to be formed, the strands are-entered once and a half, marled down, and served over. The length of the piece of rope to be used for this purpose is one-third the length of the eye required, allowing twice the round of the rope on each end in addition for splicing. The ends are tucked under the strands in splicing, exactly the same as when forming an eye-splice.

      Is made like an eye-splice; it is used in fitting lower and topmast stays. A piece of the rope intended for the stay is cut off according to the length of eye required, allowing sufficient length on both ends, one end to be tucked once and a half in the rope where you intend to form the fork; the strands are scraped and marled down ready for serving over. A Flemish eye is formed in the other end, and a corresponding Flemish eye is also formed in the end of the stay for lashing abaft the mast, as shown in the plate. It is wormed, parcelled,

and served over. The shoulders of the Flemish eyes, and of the fork are cavilled or shouldered over, which is to pass layers of spunyarn down each side of the crutch of the fork and eyes, to preserve the rope and prevent the wet from entering.

      Q. How do you splice wire rope?

      A. Precisely the same as splicing hemp rope, only taking the precaution when the marline-spike is entered under the strands you wish to put your first tuck into, to beat the strands on either side of the marline-spike with a hammer, so as to keep them open, or else, as soon as you withdraw the marlinespike, before you could possibly enter the end of your strands, the opening made by the spike would close; when the strand is entered, a hemp strand, kept ready for the purpose, is dogged round it, brought to the windlass bolt, and set well taut, heaving the strand close in place, taking great care your strand, being hove in, is kept quite straight: once kinked it could never be straightened again. The ends are generally put in once, two-thirds, and one-third, as it cannot be tapered down like hemp. The windlass-bolt is a bar of iron, stuck in the stool, used by riggers for splicing. It is worked in a similar way to hemp rigging, and with equal ease. Non-riggers are getting familiar with it.

      In splicing an eye with more than three strands, the second left-hand strand is tucked from right to left under the first convenient strand.

      Man-ropes are sometimes made of cross-pointing.

      Take a piece of 2-1/2 in., or any other size rope, and cut it

to the required length, then get it on a stretch; take sufficient parts of white line to cover the rope, taking care you have an even number, then put a good whipping round all parts where you intend the upper part of your man-rope to be, leaving outside the whipping sufficient length of all parts of the white line to form a man-rope knot when they are worked up into strands.

      Put a good whipping on, and secure the ends to any convenient place, and commence by keeping four parts in the middle to form a centre. When made of sixteen parts, keep four parts for the centre working, the remaining parts from left to right, and right to left, passing each part under four and over four, thus in turn each centre part becomes an outside part, and forms a complete square. When it is worked to its required length, the ends are worked into nettles, and it is finished off by pointing it; before commencing it, it must be decided whether you intend working a Flemish eye in the upper end or a man-rope knot, so as to know what length of ends to leave; if a knot is to be worked, the parts are laid up together to form the required number of strands. It is sometimes finished off at the upper end by driving two copper nails through the whipping, so as to form a cross; cut the nails off to the length required, then wold the parts of the nails round with yarns, until the points are covered, then work a Turk's head over it.

      Put a whipping on, allowing 6-ins. for every inch of the size of the rope, that is for an 18-in. rope put a whipping on

at 9-ft. from the end, unlay all three strands to the whipping, well stretch them, take the lay out, and beat them well with a commander.

      1st. Take the first strand round the thimble, and long-splice it to the second strand.

      2nd. In the third strand form an eye-splice rather larger in size than the thimble (as shown in plate 1), taking care that the ends of the strand forming the eye-splice come out in the lay of the rope for worming.

      3rd. Take the whipping off, put a capstan-bar or handspike through the eye-splice and long-splice, and heave all these strands up together to the size of the eye-splice (as shown in plate 2), withdraw the capstan-bar or handspike, and hitch the two parts of the eye together with small rope; the eye formed by the first and second strands being long-spliced together, and the third strand having an eye-splice in it, the thimble is then put in place, and the seizing put on, which is a common throat or round seizing (as shown in plate 3), the cable is then served, or, as is termed, kackled with 2? in. rounding, for the distance of 9-ft. from the eye. The eye is now finished and ready to receive the shackles.

      Is composed of pendants, shrouds, stays, and backstays; each mast is supported forward by stays, aft by backstays, and sideways by shrouds; the pendants are for applying extra purchases for additional support, staying the mast, or setting up the shrouds; the foremast is supported forward by the bowsprit, therefore the latter has an additional number of shrouds, bobstays, &c., to meet the strain thus brought on it.

      Iron masts are rigged similar to wooden; iron yards occasionally have bands with eyes for lifts, braces, clew-garnets, &c.

      Iron bowsprits are seldom or never-used in the Service, those ships that are supplied with iron masts, such as Rams, have wooden bowsprits for running in, which are fitted as follows: –

      The masts are supposed to be placed in their proper positions by means of wedges driven in at the partners. A measuring batten is placed against the mast to indicate the stand, also to guard against bellying the mast in setting up the stays and shrouds.

      Gantlines are always placed on the mastheads before the masts are stepped.

      Q. How do you get the lower crosstrees in place?

      A. Supposing the foremost crosstree to be on the starboard side of the deck, the starboard gantline is bent to it amidships, on its upper side, and stopped to the port-arm three parts out.

      When the arm is well over the trestle-tree, cut the stop and sway across. The after one is crossed in a similar way.

      Q. How do you get a top over?

      A. There is no rule for getting a top over either before or after the lower rigging, but it is much better to do it before, as it gives the men placing the eyes of the rigging a sure footing, more room to work, and less chance in letting things fall on deck.

      Stand the top abaft the mast on its after-edge, lower side facing forward, overhaul the gantlines down abaft all, the hauling parts being between the crosstrees, bend the gantlines on their own sides by passing them under the top, up through the after futtock plate-hole, down through lubber's-hole, up through the foremost futtock plate-hole, and hitch the ends to their own standing parts, thus having the heaviest part uppermost and forward; stop the gantlines to the fore part of the top, through holes made for that purpose. Bend the mizen-gantline to the after part through the stanchion-holes, guy aft and sway away, when the stops which confine the gantlines to the foremost rim of the top are up to the gantline-blocks, the foremost edge of the top will be pointed over the masthead; by keeping a strain on the mizen-gantline it will keep the top from canting aft when the tops are cut. When stops are cut, pull up on the gantlines, and the top will fall

over in place. A foretop is got over in a similar way, the main gantlines being used instead of the mizen. A mizen-top is sent up before the mast, so as to have the assistance of the main-gantlines to guy it clear, the after rim being sent up uppermost, the gantlines are passed under the top up through the foremost futtock-hole, down through lubber's-hole, up through the after futtock-hole, and the ends secured as in sending a main or fore top aloft, the gantlines being stopped to the after rim, so as to have the after and uppermost part of the top heaviest. In sending tops down, they are slung the contrary way, so as to have the heaviest part under: therefore if you reeve the gantlines through the foremost futtock-holes in sending a top up before all, you must reeve them through the after-holes in sending it down before all.

      Suppose the starboard-half to be on the starboard side of the deck, and the port-half on the port side.

      To send the starboard-half over the masthead, place both gantlines the starboard side of the masthead, hauling part between the crosstrees, and bending parts abaft it; the half tops are placed on their own sides, foremost ends forward, bottom of the top next the deck.

      Hitch the ends of the gantlines round the middle of lubber's-hole trap, then stop them down to the top rim, at the futtock-hole abreast the hitch; bend the mizen gantlines to the after part of the top through one of the stanchion holes. Sway away, taking care to guy aft with the mizen gantlines clear of the after crosstree. When the half-top is above the crosstrees, it is easily placed in its proper position.

      Q. What are bolster-cloths?

      A. Six parts of canvas, the length and breadth of the bolster dipped in Stockholm tar and nailed on the bolster for the eyes of the pendants and rigging to rest on.

      Q. How are shrouds numbered?

      A. By knots in a rope-yarn made fast to the crown of the eye, the first pair the starboard side has one knot; the first pair the port side has two knots, and so on, thus, all the odd numbers will be the starboard shrouds, and all the even numbers the port shrouds. If the dead-eyes are turned in, the starboard shrouds would easily be known from the port, and vice versa by the seizings being aft, and the ends being inside and aft on both sides.

      Q. How do you send the lower rigging over the masthead?

      A. The gantlines are shifted to the after part of the trestle-trees. A large toggle is seized on the end of each gantline to which a rounding line is bent. The starboard lower pendant is first sent up, a good temporary seizing is put on about three feet down the long or after leg, and instead of bending the gantline, the toggle is inserted under the seizing, and the upper part of the eye is stopped to the gantline. When the eye of the pendant is triced up to the gantline-block, the stop is cut, and the pendant is placed over the masthead, the seizing is cast off, and the gantline is rounded down by the rounding line, the port pendant is then sent up, then the first or foremost pair of shrouds the starboard side, then the first or foremost pair the port side, and so on, until all the rigging is over the masthead; in sending the shrouds up, the temporary seizing under which the toggle of the gantline is inserted is placed about one-third down the shroud, and the gantline is stopped to the crown of the eye in a similar way to the lower pendants.

      In large ships where the mastheads are very long, it is necessary to have a short gantline to assist the eye of the rigging over; which is lashed as high as possible up the lower masthead and worked from the top, the hauling part of the gantline being dipped through the eyes of the rigging as soon as it is over the masthead.

      When the lower pendants are in place, the runners should be triced up and lashed to the long or after legs, and the up and down tackles to the short or foremost legs, so as to get a good up and down pull to settle the pendants down in place, and make a foundation for the lower rigging: each pair of shrouds should be set up when placed over the masthead; in ships with nine shrouds of a side the single or after shroud is usually put on first; by so doing it gives more spread for the other shrouds, and the seizings lie clear of each other. There is also more certainty of placing the mast in the position you wish, if the after-swifters are put on the first thing after the pendants; and the mast placed by them and the runners. Before sending the lower pendants or shrouds aloft, open the eyes, which is done by lashing one side of the eyes to an eye-bolt, or any convenient place, and clapping a jigger on the other side, and haul the eyes sufficiently open to go over the masthead; by attending to this, it saves much time when the rigging goes aloft, as the men at the masthead have neither the means nor space to do it. After having got an up and down pull of the runners, pass a lashing across abaft the

mast, from the after leg of one pendant, to the after leg of the other, carry the runners forward, and steady them hand taut.

      Q. How do you send lower stays up?

      A. If for a foremast or mainmast, which have always two stays, send them up together by placing the upper one, which is always the starboard stay, upon top of the lower one, bend your gantlines to the fork of the stays, having first placed them fair with each other, and seize the two forks of the stays together, also put a good seizing on each side of the collars, about half way up (this applies to topmast stays also: for large ships, two seizings are put on each side of the collars), then put two seizings to the gantlines on each half-collar; when high enough, cut the seizings on the collar, lash the stays abaft the mast; they sometimes go over the foremast crosstree, so as to give more room for the lower yards to brace up. A mizenstay is sent up in a similar way.

      Q. For what reason are the lower and topmast stays put over the mastheads after the shrouds?

      A. The lower the shrouds are placed, the sharper the yards will brace up. If the stays were placed over the masthead first, the eyes of the rigging would chafe the lashing of the eyes of the stays through, and the rigging would not lay snug.

      Q. How are the lower stays turned in?

      A. Either cutter-stay fashion, or on end. When turned in cutter-stay fashion, hearts are used instead of dead-eyes; when on end, thimbles; sometimes the mainstays are passed round the cross-piece of the fore bitts, and secured to their own parts. Hearts are turned in and secured in a similar way that dead-eyes are in shrouds – the starboard stay the same as a starboard shroud, and the port stay the same as a port shroud.

      Measure with a line from the after-part of the masthead to the heart in the collar on the bowsprit for a forestay, and to the heart at the knight-heads or fore bitts whichever place the mainstays are going to be set up to for the mainstays. Four or five feet less than the measure will be the length of the stay from the eyes to the lower part of the heart, then allow once the round of the stay and half the round of the heart for going half-round the heart and the nip.

      In ships of the "Warrior" class, the mainstays are set up

to hearts, secured by bolts through chocks on the upper deck, and clenched underneath on the main deck, to one of the beams about 30 ft. or 40 ft. abaft the foremast.

      Q. What size is a lanyard of lower stays in proportion to the stay?

      A. Half an inch less than half the size of the stay.

      Q. How many turns are there rove through a heart for securing lower stays?

      A. Four lower turns, and three riding turns; should there be any end left after these turns are rove, it is expended in riding turns, if there is sufficient room left in the heart; the four lower and three riding turns generally fill the heart up.

      Q. How are lanyards of lower stays rove?

      A. Generally on. the bight, and set up on both ends; sometimes they are only set up on one end, in which case the standing part of the lanyard is secured with a running eye round the underneath part of the lower heart.

      When the hearts for the forestays are turned in on the bowsprit, with what is termed a long collar, the standing part of the lanyard of the stay is spliced in the lower heart. It is then rove in a similar way that a lanyard for lower rigging is, the hauling part of the lanyard on the standing part of the stay, each turn being placed in the notch or score in the heart. In large hearts there are four scores, and in small ones three, every turn is hauled well taut and is racked. After the riding turns are passed, the end is seized to its own part; three good spunyarn seizings are passed round the lanyard, at equal distances, to keep all parts in place.

      Q. What purchases are used for setting up lower stays, and how are they applied?

      A. When setting up with lanyards rove on the end, the same purchase is used as for setting up lower rigging, viz., up and down and luff; a boatswain's toggle is also used. Both stays should be set up at the same time, the luff being applied to a stay in a similar way that it is to a shroud, the single block well up the stay, hooked to a salvagee-strop, and the double block to the strop of the boatswain's toggle – the up and down to the fall of the luff.

      The mast having been placed in the required position by the runners and tackles, the stays are set up until they have the strain of the mast.

      When the lanyard is rove on the bight, top-Burton's, on luffs, are sufficient purchase. Great care must be taken to

keep the eyes and lashing clear of each other at the masthead; and the fork of the stays exactly middled. Men are stationed each side of the lubber's-hole with a strand, to keep the stays close to the crosstrees while setting up. If the seizings are well secured that are put on the forks of the stays before they are sent aloft, there is little fear of the stays getting out of place at the masthead when setting up; seizings thus put on, have been known to last an entire commission, and not taken off until stripping the mast again.

      Q. How do you send a lower cap up?

      A. It is sometimes sent up before the lower rigging is put over the masthead, if after the lower mast is rigged, before the rigging is set up, so as to allow ample room for it to go through the lubber's-hole; when one gantline only is used for sending the lower cap up, it is doubled by being rove through another block, the standing part being made fast to the masthead; or both gantlines are shifted to the side of the mast you intend sending it up; there is sufficient room for it to lay in the fore part of the top, without in any way interfering with the rigging of the lower mast.

      The cap is swayed out of the top, and hung above the eyes of the lower rigging with the top-Burton tackles fair for the topmast to enter, taking care the after part of the topmast is the same side as the top block is lashed; hook the two up and down tackles to a strop round the heel of the topmast, to assist the hawser in swaying it up, put a small spar in the fid-hole, with a rope fast to it, so as to slew the mast as required. When the topmast is about 3 ft. through the fid-hole, slew it one square forward, then lash the cap to it with two pieces of rope, clove-hitched round the topmast-head, and through the eye-bolts in the cap, one forward and one aft each side, for the cap to go up square. When ready, bring the hawser to the capstan, heave round, and walk the up and downs up by hand at the same time. When the cap is above the lower masthead, slew the mast till the cap is fair for going on, then lower the mast, and the cap will go into its place, beat it well down with commanders, then make the end of the hawser fast to the foremost eye-bolt in the cap, keeping the weight of the mast in the tackles, unlash the top-block, and hook it to the

after eye-bolt, in the cap on the opposite side to which the hawser is secured, take the lashing off the topmast-head and lower cap, and the up and down tackles off the heel, and the racking off the two parts of the hawser, put a gantline on the after-part of the topmast-head, ready for sending the topmast crosstrees up; sway the topmast for this purpose, one-fourth up.

            Note. – It is customary to fid the spare topmast first.

      Q. How do you set up lower rigging?

      A. With an up and down and luff. The double block of the up and down is lashed to the short or foremost leg of the lower pendants, the single block is overhauled down ready to hook to the fall of the luff. The single block of the luff is hooked to a salvagee-strop, which is put on the shroud that is to be set up, about 10 ft. above the netting, a strip of canvas having previously been placed round the shroud to take the chafe of the salvagee-strop.

      If setting up with what is termed a boatswain's toggle, the double block of the luff is hooked to a strop which goes round both parts of the lanyard under the toggle.

      A boatswain's toggle is simply a piece of hard round wood; it is used by taking a round turn round it with the lanyard; and then by taking two round turns round both the parts of the lanyard, under the toggle, with a salvagee-strop, taking care to have both parts of the strop on the same side of the toggle.

      This plan is much approved of by riggers, as the lanyard never jambs, nor do you run a chance of bursting the yarns of the lanyard.

      Another plan, for setting lower rigging up, is by making a cat's-paw in the end of the lanyard, and hooking the double block of the luff to it, this plan is most objectionable, as the lanyard invariably jambs, and in many cases you burst the outside yarns of the lanyards; therefore, in all cases, a boatswain's toggle should be used.

      Is composed of iron rod and chain, the foremost shroud only being of chain, the remainder iron rods. The upper ends of the shrouds are fitted with legs to bolt to the futtock-plates, the lower ends are shackled to the necklace round the lower masthead, they are parcelled and served over with spunyarn; an iron Scotchman is seized to the shrouds of the lower

rigging, in the wake of the futtock-rigging, to prevent it chafing.

      When the futtock-plates are sent up, and rove down through their respective holes in the top rim, send the futtock-shrouds up one at a time and shackle them on in place.

      Q. How do you send topmast crosstrees in place?

      A. Gantlines are placed on the topmast-head for this purpose.

      Send the end of the gantline down abaft the top, make it fast to the centre forepart of the crosstrees, bend an after-gantline to keep it clear of the top and lower cap, sway the crosstrees above the cap, slack the after-gantline, let the fore part rest against the mast, and the after part on the cap, make a rope fast to the after part of the crosstrees, and reeve it through the eye-bolt in the cap each side, and a man in the top to attend them to prevent them slipping off, lower the topmast, take the gantlines off the topmast-head. As the topmast goes down, the crosstrees will gradually come down on the lower cap in the right position to go over the topmast-head when the mast is again swayed up. The spare topmast is generally used for this purpose, and after the crosstrees are in place, the mast is swayed up, and fidded, to ascertain all is right; they are then sent down, and stowed in the booms or chains. The heel of the fore-topmast being taken aft, and the main and wizen forward.

      Q. How do you rig a topmast a

      A. Sway the mast up, so as to have the crosstrees about 4 ft. above the lower cap, and put the gantline or gantlines, on for sending the topmast rigging up. There are two plans for sending topmast rigging over the topmast-head, either by, putting a gantline and two man-ropes on the after part of the topmast-head, or by placing two gantlines on the after part of the tressletrees, and the man-ropes on opposite sides of the topmast-head.

      Shackle the tye-blocks to the foremost legs of both the necklaces, and the jib halyard-block to the after-leg the starboard side, and topmast-staysail halyard or jibstay-block to the after-leg the port side of the fore-topmast necklace.

      The jib and staysail halyard blocks are sometimes shackled to eye-bolts, driven up through the fore-part of the topmast tressletrees and crosstrees, and clenched above, which forms a much better lead; it saves time to get the hanging-blocks in place, before sending or setting the topmast rigging up.

      The iron binding of the blocks should be smoothed down

at the edges, and the ends of the pins covered with leather, to prevent them cutting into the masts.

Nail the bolster cloths in place, the same as for the lower rigging, put the sail-tackle pendant round the topmast below the crosstrees.

      Hook the to lower block of the fore to the bowsprit cap the main to an eye-bolt in the foremast-head, or a strop round the foremast-head, and the mizen to an eye-bolt in the mainmast-head, or a strop round the mainmast-head.

      The topmast rigging is fitted in the eyes, and the deadeyes turned in the same as the lower rigging, the top Burton pendant has only one leg of a side to hook the top-Burton to.

      The topmast rigging is placed over the masthead the same as the lower rigging, after the Burton pendant is placed, the first pair of shrouds the starboard side, then the first pair the port side, so on until all the shrouds are in place; then the first pair of backstays the starboard side, then the first pair of backstays the port side. Then the third and last pair of backstays, which is fitted with a single leg of a side and a horseshoe-eye, so the backstays shall lay fair on the quarter of the mast.

      Note. – Single backstays, fitted with a horseshoe splice, are always put over the masthead first, after the shrouds, in Portsmouth Dockyard, therefore they become the quarter backstays.

      All backstays are now turned in alike, and set up with dead-eyes the same as the rigging, as quarter backstays.

      There are always three of a side down to second class frigates, below that, only one pair of a side.

      Breast or shifting backstays are done away with in the Navy, but if they should ever be used, after the topmast shrouds are placed, send the breast backstays up, which are one on each side; they are spliced together to form the eye.

      Bend the gantline, on 3 ft. below the eye, the port side, and stop it along the starboard-leg, sway it up, and cut the stops as they come to the block, sending the starboard breast backstays down its own side; they are set up with a runner and tackle, instead of being set. up, like the others, with dead-eyes.

      In French ships of war the topmast breast-backstays are used instead of yard-tackle pendants and whips, having fiddle blocks seized in them for reeving the falls.

      When required for hoisting boats in or out they are run out to the yard-arms, to the required distance, by a single whip, and secured round the yard-arm by a strop and toggle, thus doing away with the lumber on the main and foreyards of yard-tackle pendants and whips, leaving them much clearer for working studdingsails.

      Note. – The "London" and "Princess Royal," when commanded by Captain (now Admiral) Sir Lewis Tobias Jones, in the Black Sea, had their topmast breast backstays fitted in this way.

      When not in use as yard-tackle pendants and whips, the single blocks are hooked in the chains, the hauling part of the falls are hitched round the ass of the lower block, and coiled down, the standing part of the fall, which is secured by being hitched round the backstay above the fiddle-block, is cast off, rove through the pipe in the ship-side inboard, and used as a temporary hauling-part to set the backstay up, thus doing away with the necessity of having the whole length of the fall on the upper deck.

      All backstays are usually served with sennit in the wake of the braces, so as to do away with the use of mats.

      Bend the gantline 3 ft. below the eye-seizing, and stop it to the eye, pull up on the gantlines when the first seizing is up to the gantline-block, cut it, pull up again on the gantlines, and place the shrouds over the masthead.

      The quarter backstays are then set up in the usual way, one pair of a side and set up with dead-eyes.

      If you are sending the topmast rigging up by a single gantline on the after-part of the topmast-head, you must hang the shroud by the man-ropes, cast of the gantlines, unreeve it, dip it clear of the eye of the shroud, reeve it the reverse way, and pay it down for the next pair.

      If you are sending the shrouds up by gantlines placed on the after tressletree, as soon as the second seizing is up to the gantline block, reeve, if the starboard shroud, the port man-rope, which is placed on the topmast-head through the eye, and bouse it down in place; this latter plan, for small vessels, is much to be preferred, and in ships where the topmast-heads are not too long, much time is saved in working the two gantlines.

      In large ships, where the topmast rigging is very heavy, the single gantline on the after-part of the topmast-head is the best and easiest plan.

      Funnels are used in small ships for, the topmast rigging, the same as for topgallant rigging, only they are square instead of round.

      Q. How are the lower dead-eyes for the topmast rigging fitted

      A. The lower dead-eyes of the topmast rigging are iron stropt, and, like the lower ones, swivel; they are connected to the necklace of the lower mast by the futtock shrouds.

      It requires great care in placing the lower rigging, so the futtock rigging will lead clear between the lower shrouds without chafing them; but if the lower shrouds ride, there will be great difficulty in reeving them, and constant chafing afterwards.

      Iron Scotchmen are placed on the lower rigging, so as to prevent chafing the lower shrouds.

      Q. What is the difference in the fitting of the topmast shrouds

      A. The first or foremost pair of shrouds each side, has a sister-block seized in them for the topsail lifts and reef-tackles, and the foremost shroud on each side is wormed, parcelled, and served all the way down.

      Q. How do you send up and place the topmast stays, fore, main, and mizen over the topmast-head, and how are they set up?

      A. For the Fore or Main. – The stays are placed one on top of the other, seized together in the crutch, and two seizings are put on each side of the collar; if the jib-stay is fitted to secure at the masthead and set up on the forecastle, all three stays can be sent up together, the jib-stay uppermost; the gantlines are sent down before all, and bent to the crutch of the stays and stopped to the collars, swayed up, and when the seizing on the collars are up to the gantline-blocks they are cut, and the eyes are lashed abaft the topmast rigging with a rose-seizing.

      The legs of the collar of the jib-stay are passed down through the collars of the fore-topmast stays, and lashed in a similar way to the topmast stay abaft all, and below them. It takes it more clear of the foot of the fore top-gallant sail, and brings less strain on the topmast-head.

      In large ships, where the stays are heavy, it is the best plan to send them up by a top-Burton, which is hooked to a strop round the fork of the stays.

      The starboard stay is always the upper stay.

      The fore-topmast stays are rove through the sheaves in the

bees of the bowsprit, through holes in the spritsail gaff, and set up in the head, the port or inner stay having previously been rove through hanks for the topmast-staysail.

      In all screw ships they both lead through iron-bound clump blocks, shackled to the hooks at the foremast-head above the rigging, high enough to clear the peak of the gaff-foresail, and are set up to iron-bound hearts in the deck. Paddlewheel steamers have but one stay that reeves through the fore cap, and sets up to a collar under the third pair of shrouds.

      The mizen topmast stays set up to a thimble, stropped round the eyes of the main shrouds; in screw ships there is an iron-bound clump-block above the rigging, similar to the main topmast-stays.

      In sailing ships, the upper main topmast-stay leads over a chock between the fore tressletrees; the lower one leads through a clump-block bolted through the foremast, under the top; both are set up to iron-bound hearts in the deck.

      Q. How do you set up topmast rigging?

      A. A top-Burton and runner are used for this purpose. The double block of the Burton is hooked to the Burton-pendant, and the single block to a thimble in the end of the runner; the other end of the runner is secured round the shroud that is to be set up, about 10 ft. above the top, or as high up as the length of the runner will allow with two round turns, and the end is dogged round with the lay of the rope and stopped.

      The end of the lanyard is rove through the thimble, in the crown of the runner-block.

      A sheet-bend is formed round the neck of the strop, in which a belaying pin, or any round piece of wood is inserted, to prevent it from jambing.

      The end of the Burton fall is led on deck, where it is worked.

      If a hook were substituted in the crown of the runner-block, instead of the thimble, a boatswain's toggle could be used for setting up topmast rigging, the same as lower rigging, by which much time would be saved.

      Q. How are topmast-stays turned in?

      A. On end, with the end parts in amidships. Hearts are generally used by the dockyard riggers in large ships, and in

small vessels, thimbles. For neatness in large ships, dead-eyes are frequently substituted for hearts.

      Q. How are the lanyards for topmast-stays rove?

      A. If dead-eyes are used in a similar way to lower or topmast rigging, the end is secured by a Matthew Walker knot in the upper dead-eyes. If hearts are used, the standing part of the lanyard is spliced in the bolt in the deck, to which the lower heart is secured. If thimbles, the standing part of the lanyard is spliced in the thimble in the stay.

      Q. What purchases are used for setting topmast-stays up, and how are they applied?

      A. Luff upon luff.

      The single block of the first luff or forecastle jigger is hooked to the lanyard of the stay, and the double block to a salvagee-strop on the stay, or the tail of the double block of the jigger dogged round the stay; the fall is led in through one of the pipes on the forecastle, cat's-pawed, and the double block of another luff or forecastle jigger is hooked to it, the single block being hooked to a convenient place to form a fair lead, it is then steadily walked up until the topmast-stays have the strain of the mast, or the sail tackle by which the mast has been placed in the position required is slack.

      Hook the single block of a luff to a salvagee-strop well up the stay, and the double block to the lanyard, then hook the double block of the second luff with another salvagee-strop well above the single block of the first luff, and below the clump-block through which the main topmast-stays are rove, and the single block to a cat's-paw in the hauling part of the first or lower luff; reeve the fall through a leading block on deck, and steadily walk it up until the stays have the strain; both stays should be walked up together.

      The mizen topmast-stays are set up with top-jiggers, the double block of the jigger is hooked about 10 ft. or 15 ft. up the stay, and the single block to the lanyard; it is generally set up by hands in the top.

      Q. What is the difference in the rigging of a fore, main, and mizen topmast?

      A. The fore topmast has an extra stay to the main – viz., the jib-stay. The mizen has only one topmast-stay.

      Q. How do you get a topmast cap in place?

      A. In small vessels it is swayed up by gantlines, and put on by hand.

      In large ships a topgallant-mast is used in a similar way that a topmast is for a lower cap.

      Lash the fore and mizen topgallant-mast rope blocks the starboard side, and the main the port side.

      To reeve the mast-rope for this purpose, take the end up through lubber's-hole, on the starboard-side, for the fore or mizen, and the port side for the main, reeve it through the block at the topmast-head from aft forward, down through the mast-hole in the crosstrees, then through the thimble of the lizard, through the sheave-hole in the heel of the topgallant-mast, and through the thimble of the topgallant lizard; haul enough through to reach the royalmast-head, and rack the two parts together; reeve the lizard that is on the hauling part through the royal sheave-hole, and hitch it to its own part; the lizard on the standing part is rove through the topgallant sheave-hole, and hitched to its own part.

      Sway the mast up, and point it through the topmast crosstrees.

      Two gantlines are secured to the topmast-head for thin purpose; overhaul one of them down before all, bend it to the cap, and sway it up to the topmast-head.

      Make the other gantlines fast, so that the cap will hang square above the eyes of the rigging, for the topgallant-mast to enter the round hole, then sway the topgallant-mast 2 ft. or 3 ft. through the cap, and lash it fair for going on the topmast-head, sway up until the cap is above the topmast-head, then slew the topgallant-mast until the cap is fair for going on, then lower away until the cap is in place; beat it well down with a commander, when it bears fairly all round in place, make the standing part of the topgallant-mast rope fast to the foremost eyebolt in the topmast cap; lower the mast, and let the weight come on the standing part with the same racking on; then unlash the block, and hook it to the after eyebolt in the cap on the port or starboard side, according which mast it is. Haul taut the mast-rope, take a turn with it and cast the racking off.

      Q. How is a topmast necklace secured, and what is it made of?

      A. A topmast necklace is merely a chain-strop, the fore having two open links or legs on each side fox the hanging

or topsail tye-blocks, jib and fore topmast staysail halyard-blocks and the main and mizen, one open link or leg each side for the topsail-tye, or hanging-blocks.

      The necklace is placed over the topmast-head, above the crosstrees, and under the bolsters.

      Note. – In Portsmouth Dockyard the chain strop is done away with, the necklace is now formed out of an iron plate, with lugs for long links for the hanging blocks.

      Q. How are the bolsters on the topmast secured?

      A. The topmast bolsters, like the bolsters on the lower mast, are chocks of wood, half-rounded, so as to form a smooth surface for the eyes of the topmast rigging to lay on; and are scored out underneath to fit snugly down on the necklace.

      The necklace and bolsters are secured to the crosstrees, before the crosstrees are sent aloft.

      Q. How do you rig a topgallant and royalmast?

      A. Topgallant rigging is placed over a funnel, which is made of copper to fit above the hounds of the topgallant-mast; being of a smooth surface, it does not chafe the eyes of the rigging.

      Send the gantlines down before all, and make it fast to the stays, about 6 ft. below the funnel, stop it to the funnel; pull up on the gantline, and place the funnel over the hole in the topmast cap, in readiness to receive the topgallant-mast, stop the stays to the crosstrees; send the gantlines down abaft the top for the starboard pair of shrouds, place them over the funnel, then send the port pair of shrouds up and place them; then the starboard pair of backstays, then the port pair of backstays and place them.

      The main and mizen topgallant-masts are rigged in a similar way, with the omission of a flying jibstay.

      Main and mizen royalstays are now rove through sheaves in the after-part of the fore and main topmast crosstrees. Iron jacks, or arms, are also fitted to the lower rim of topgallant funnels. The fore has six, the main five, and the mizen two. On the fore the blocks for the flying-jib halyards, fore topgallant-buntlines, and the topgallant studdingsail-halyard, are shackled to the four foremost ones, Jacob's ladder being shackled to the two after ones. On the three foremost lugs of the main, the main topgallant buntlines, and topgallant studdingsail halyard-blocks, are shackled, Jacob's ladder to

the two after ones. The mizen Jacob's ladder is shackled to the two lugs which are on the after part of the funnel.

      A royal funnel is made of copper, and similar in shape to a topgallant funnel.

      A false royal masthead is fitted to go far enough down the funnel to be secured by screws; it is in every way the shape of the royal masthead, fitted with the lightning conductor, and a hole for the spindle.

      Place the royalstays and backstays on the funnel, reeve the signal halyards and put the truck on. Send it up, and place it over the topgallant funnel, ready to ship on the head of the mast.

      Sway on the mast-rope, when the head of the mast is through the topgallant funnel, place the royal funnel and track, and reeve the royal halyards; when the mast is high enough, settle the topgallant funnel down in its place, and when the sheave is above the cap, reeve the topgallant yard-rope: shackle the span-blocks far topgallant studdingsail halyards and Jacob's ladder, abaft all to the jacks attached to the funnel. The spindle goes with a screw into the false masthead.

      N.B. – In most cases the flying-jib halyards block-strop is worked round the chafing grommet when the funnel is not fitted with jacks.

      A fore topgallant stay is rove through the dumb-sheave in the jib-boom end, through the dolphin-striker, and set up to one of the knight-heads.

      The main and mizen are led through a hole in the lower caps, and set up, the mizen in the main, and the main in the fore-top

      The fore royalstay is rove through the dumb-sheave in the flying jib-boom end, through the lower part of the dolphin-striker, and like the topgallant stay, is set up to one of the knight-heads.

      The main and mizen are rove through a sheave in the after part of the main and fore-topmast crosstrees, and set up to a thimble a secured to the eyes of the lower rigging, the mizen in the main, and the main in the foretop.

      Q. How do yon clothe a bowsprit?

      A. On whichever plan a bowsprit is rigged, the rule is, the clothing is commenced at two-thirds the length of the bowsprit from the knight-heads, but owing to the long bows

ships now have, this must depend on the length of the cut-water.

      There are two plans for clothing a bowsprit – viz., heart plan, or the strop or bale-sling plan.

      N.B. – The bobstay collars are placed, the diameter of the bowsprit apart.

      In this way the forestay is planed inside, for convenience in removing the collar if necessary.

      An extra bobstay is fitted, reaching from the lower stem-hole to the bowsprit, just inside the cap called the cap-bobstay.

      In rigging a bowsprit, the first thing to be done is to rig a stage for the men to work on, as follows: – Take two topmast studdingsail-booms, or any other spars of that description, rig them out of the head-port over the rail, hook the double block of a luff to the cap of the bowsprit, and the single block, to a lashing on the end of the spars: haul them out, and secure their heels on the headrails; lash a third spar across the outer ends, to keep them open, and secure them to the end of the bowsprit by slashing. Lash two planks athwart them, one near the inner, the other near the outer end of the spar; then lay as many planks as required to form a platform, nailing them for security to the two athwart-ship planks.

      The bowsprit is supported at the hole in the bows, which it passes through by wedges the same as the lower masts are at the partners; it is also secured by chain or rope gammonings two in number, inner and outer gammonings, which are passed over the gammoning-fish, on the bowsprit, and through holes in the stem.

      The gammoning-fish, or saddle is well-tarred, the ends of the chain are passed over the bowsprit, from the starboard side, through the holes in the stem, and over the bowsprit, and shackled to their own parts underneath; the turns are then passed with the other ends, so that the foremost ones on the bowsprit are the after ones in the stem; each turn is hove taut, as it is passed, by reeving the gammoning through snatch-blocks made fast to the bobstay-holes on the cutwater, bringing the bight through the hawse-hole, and toggling on to tackles led from the capstan.

      Before coming up the tackles, the chain is secured, by nails driven through it, into the fish or gammoning pieces, also by the wedges driven into the gammoning-hole in the stem.

      The last turns are frapping turns, passed over some well greased hide, and set up by a tackle or a runner led through a block on the bumpkin.

      In rope-gammoning, racking turns with spunyarn would be used, instead of nails. Chain-gammoning stretches after much use, and should therefore be attended to, when about to set up rigging.

      The man-ropes are spliced round a thimble, through an eye-bolt each side of the bowsprit-cap, and a thimble spliced in the other ends, to set up to the knight-heads with a lanyard, and attached to the forestay by stirrups.

      The bowsprit is secured outside downwards by the bobstays, and sideways by the shrouds.

      The forestays pull upwards, and are always placed between two bobstays, so as not to strain or distress the bowsprit.

      The inner bobstay or inner forestay collar, according to the plan the bowsprit is to be rigged, is lashed on two-thirds the length of the bowsprit from the knight-heads.

      All collars, before being placed, are well fidded out. The bobstay-collars are lashed on top.

      The forestay-collars below, and the bowsprit shroud-collar,, on the quarter of the bowsprit, the lashings are hove taut by means of a Spanish windlass; when all the collars are in place, cleats are nailed to keep them from shifting in or out.

      In some cases they are fitted without being lashed, the thimble reeving through its own part.

      Bowsprit-shrouds are usually of chain, secured to the collar by a rope lanyard, and to the eye-bolt in the bow by a slip;

all bobstay collars are placed the diameter of the bowsprit apart, which leaves a proper distance for the other collars.

      Bobstays are rove through the hole in the cutwater, middled, and spliced, and the hearts seized in, ready for setting up, the drift for the lanyards between the heart in the bobstay, and the heart in the collar is, for the inner bobstay, the diameter of the bowsprit, the middle one 3 ins. less, and the outer one, 6 ins. less.

      The lanyard is half the size of the bobstay; if wire, the lanyard of the bobstay is the same size as the bobstay, and the standing part is made fast with a running-eye, either round the bowsprit close to the collar, or round the heart of the collar; reeve as many turns as you can without riding, well tar and grease them, hook the double block of a luff to a strop round both parts of the bobstay near the cutwater, and the single block to the lanyard, bring the end of the fall through a block hooked to a strop round the bowsprit, haul through the slack, and make a cat's-paw in it, hook the double block of another luff to it, and single block to the knightheads, and haul every turn taut.

      The standing parts of the lanyards should be made fast on opposite sides alternately, so as to endeavour to keep the blocks of the luff clear of each other in setting up.

      After each bobstay has been drawn into place, shorten up for a final pull, and walk all three down together; rack the turns, and pass the riders, rack these again, and when the last turn is taut, rack the end to the other part.

      Sometimes the bobstays are set up on both ends of the lanyards, this is done by reeving one end through a leading block made fast round the bowsprit.

      The bumpkins are stepped, one each side of the bows, to a beam fitted for the purpose, they are secured downwards, and sideways by chain guys, shackled to the bows, and set up to the bumpkin-end, to eye-bolts attached to an iron band that is on the bumpkin-end, and clamped to one of the crossbeams of the head-rail; it is tapered off at the end, to prevent the foretack blocks from slipping in.

      Q. How do you get a bowsprit cap on?

      A. Bowsprit caps are put on and taken off with the jib-boom, in a similar way that a lower cap is with a topmast.

      Q. How do you rig a jib-boom?

      A. First point it over the knight-heads, lightning conductors downwards, get a whip on the forestay, and hook the single block to a strop round the jib-boom, about 10 ft. or 12 ft. from the jib-boom end, which will take it into its place on the bowsprit, with the end far enough through the bowsprit cap to admit of placing the funnel to receive the rigging.

      The funnel is fitted with an iron band round it with two legs to it; the one on top is for the slip of the jibstay, and the one underneath is to shackle the martingale stay; before placing the funnel on, put the jib-traveller on, if it is intended to use one.

      1st. A good chafing grommet, close to the iron band, driven well down to protect the eyes of the rigging from being cut.

      2nd. Foot ropes.

      3rd. The starboard jib or spritsail guy.

      4th. The port one, seize the foot-ropes on to the guys, about 18 ins. from the eye.

      5th. The jackstay, which is fitted in most cases with an eye over the funnel, and a small eye in the other end to set up to the bowsprit cap; it is also fitted with stops for stowing the jib.

      6th. Shackle the martingale stay on, one end to the eye-bolt under the iron round the funnel, and the other end to the dolphin-striker.

      When the martingale stay is made of wire rope, there is an eye spliced at each end, one of which goes over the funnel and the other over, and close up to the shoulder, on the point of the dolphin-striker.

      After the rigging is placed over the funnel, the flying jib-boom iron is put on the end of the jib-boom, with the hole for the flying jib-boom on the starboard side.

      To rig the jib-boom out, reeve the heel rope, bend the jib-halyards, or hook the foretop sail tackle to the jib-boom end; pull on the heel rope, and rig the jib-boom out, keep as much strain on the jib-halyards, or sail tackle, as will keep the heel from rising off the saddle.

      When out, the heel is secured by two chains, the heel and crupper chain, both fitted with slips.

      The heel chain is in two pieces, and shackled to eye-bolts

on either side of the bowsprit cap. The starboard piece having a slip in the other end, the port piece is brought round the heel of the jib-boom, there being a score there to receive it, and extends about 2 ft. up the starboard side, when it is secured by the slip in the starboard piece.

      The crupper chain is passed round the bowsprit, and over the notch in the jib-boom made to receive it, and secured to one of its own links by a slip.

      Steady taut the jumper-guys, so as to allow the gaffs to come into their required position, pull up on the spritsail-lifts and guys, the gaffs will come nearly horizontal, then steady taut the back-ropes, and remove the jib-halyards or sail-tackle from the jib-boom end.

      The jibstays are generally set up in the head, and seldom, shackled to the jib-boom funnel.

      The jibstay is either rove through the sheave hole in the jib-boom end, through another in the dolphin-striker, and its end (which is pointed and fitted with a becket for bending a reeving-line) set up in the head, or it is secured by a slip to the eye-bolt in the upper part of the iron band that goes round the-jib-boom funnel.

      Another plan is the jib-traveller, worked the same as in a cutter, only with a jib-stay, the standing part of the stay is secured by a slip, or seized to the traveller, the other end is rove through a block at the masthead, and set up by a tackle, or sometimes, in small vessels, by a runner and tackle on deck.

      The traveller is worked by an outhaul, through the sheave-hole in the jib-boom end, and an inhaul.

      The object of this plan is to be able to ease the jib in when blowing fresh.

      Small ships have an iron martingale or dolphin-striker, and iron whiskers or outriggers, projecting from the catheads, instead of spritsail-gaffs, through the ends of which the jib-guys are rove, and set up in the fore chains clear of the anchors.

      It is found convenient, when a jib-boom is fitted with a funnel, to fix two iron projections on the fore part of the. bowsprit cap, so as to be able to secure the funnel in a direct line with the jib-boom hole in the bowsprit-cap, in shifting jib-booms.

      Q. How do you rig a flying jib-boom out?

      A. By a heel-rope, fitted with a tail-block and made fast to the boom-iron, then make the end fast to the flying-boom end, and stop it to the head; haul on the heel-rope, and point the boom through the iron.

      1st. Put on a chafing grommet close to the hounds.

      2nd. The foot-ropes.

      3rd. Flying-jib-guys.

      4th. Flying martingale-stay.

      5th. Reeve the flying jib-stay through the sheave-hole; the royal stay leads over a notch, or half-sheave in the flying jib-boom end.

      Splice an eye in the ends of the foot-ropes, then take a half-hitch, and seize it round the jib or spritsail-guys, and put another seizing on before the hitch.

      Q. Where is the flying jibstay set up?

      A. It is rove through the sheave-hole in the end of the flying jib-boom, through the dolphin-striker, and set up with a purchase to the port knight-heads.

      Put the jaws through the bow ports, clap a tackle on the topmast stays, hook the single block to a strop put inside the jaws of the gaff, and whip them out in place near the bees of the bowsprit, and just outside the outer bobstay collar; there is a score cut in the jaws, for the topmast stays to lead through.

      1st. Put the brace on.

      2nd. The lift.

      3rd. The guys.

      4th. The after-guys, and spritsail-martingale, it is sometimes called a jumper-guy.

      Put a clump-block on the gaff outside, and close to the guys, for the foremost guy of the swinging boom.

      A double strop is fitted round the gaff, half-way out from the jaws, with a thimble seized in it, for the flying jib-sheets to lead through.

      Hook the double block of a tackle to the bowsprit cap, and the single block to a strop below the jaws of the dolphin-

striker; and trice it up close to the bowsprit, where it is secured by jaw-ropes round the bowsprit, just inside the cap.

      Q. How are spanker, or trysail-gaffs fitted, and what gear is attached to them?

      A. In most cases the gaff is fitted with two iron bands round them, with eye-bolts on top, the inner one is half-way and the outer one five-sevenths out from the jaws, for hooking the peak halyards-blocks to, which are two single iron-bound blocks; on the gaff end is an iron spindle or outrigger, with a sheave in it, for reeving signal-halyards through, for hoisting the ensign.

      The throat halyard-block is a double iron-bound block, and is hooked to an eye-bolt just abaft the jaws, which is clenched underneath.

      In the gaff end, there is a sheave-hole for the outhaul, and in most cases a small iron band with an eye-bolt on each side for the vangs.

      The jaws is the fork or foremost part of the gaff, that fits round the mast, and is formed by two chocks, secured to the gaff by iron hoops, or bands; when the spanker-boom is near the binnacle, the hoops, or bands, for securing the chocks, or jaws, are always metal; the jaws are covered in the wake of the mast with liquored [sic] leather.

      Q. What rigging is attached to a gaff?

      A. Peak and throat halyards, vangs, downhaul and tack-tricing line; inhaul, outhaul, and jaw-rope.

      Q. How is the boom of a boom-mainsail, or spanker-boom fitted, and what rigging is attached to it?

      A. It is fitted with jaws, the same as the gaff, which rests on a saddle, and is secured to the mizen trysail-mast or mainmast of a brig, with cleats and a clasp hoop.

      If the sail is fitted with an outhaul, there is a sheave in the boom end.

      There is an iron band, with an eye-bolt on each quarter of it, for the topping lift-blocks, the boom is coppered over the part that rests in the crutch, there are cleats, and eye-bolts fitted alternately each side of the boom-end for the reef-pendants, four in number.

      There are two double blocks, or two single blocks, according how the boom or spanker-boom is fitted, on the after-part of the boom, for the boom-sheets, placed so as to make a fair lead with those placed in the stern of the ship on each quarter.

      The standing rigging of a boom is, jackstays, foot-ropes, jaw-rope.

      It is becoming very general to fit a foot-rope to spanker-booms.

      Form a cut splice in the centre of a piece of rope to go over the boom-end, splice an eye in the two ends, and seize them round the boons about 3 ft. or 4 ft. inside the taffrail.

      It is a very convenient thing to have a jackstay on the after part of a spanker-boom, for all it is not usual. It is merely a piece of rope with an eye spliced in each end, the outer one being sufficiently large to go over the boom-end, the inner one is set up to the strop of the boom-sheet block.

      Another plan of fitting a spanker or main-boom jackstay, is to form a Matthew Walker's knot in the outer end, reeve it through an eye-bolt on top of the boom, splice an eye in the inner end, and set it up to another eye-bolt placed for the purpose.

      1st. Next the slings, on either side, jeer-blocks.

      2nd. Topsail-sheets blocks.

      3rd. Truss-strops.

      4th. Clew-garnet blocks.

      5th. Rolling tackle-strop.

      1st. Chafing-grommet.

      2nd. Foot-ropes.

      3rd. Head-earring strop.

      4th. Jackstay

      5th. Yard tackle-pendants.

      6th. Brace-blocks.

      7th. Lift-blocks.

      There are two on each side of the yard, and the general rule for placing them is, the outer one is seized on the jackstay, about 6 ft. inside the quarter iron; the inner one about the same distance outside the clew garnet-block; but before seizing them on for a full due, their proper position should be determined on when the sail is bent.

      There are two on each side of the yard, fitted with tails, they are hitched to the jackstay, alongside the leech-line blocks. These blocks hang down before the yard, and abaft the courses.

      There are two double blocks fitted also with tails, made fast to the jeer-block strops; they also hang down before the yard, and abaft the courses, to lead the slab-lines on deck.

      Is a single block fitted with a tail, made fast to the slings of the yard, and hangs down before the yard and abaft the course.

      The only difference in rigging a main or fore yard is, a main yard has preventer brace-blocks on the fore side by which the yard is worked.

      The jeer blocks are single thick, double-stropped, having long and short legs.

      The blocks stand fore and aft on top of the yards, the two eyes of the strops are lashed the fore side of the yard, leaving sufficient room between the blocks for the slings, the lashing is passed rose-seizing fashion, and should be half the size in circumference of the stropping of the block. There are two such blocks on both the fore and main yards. The crossjack yard is sent up and down by the mizen Burtons.

      The topsail-sheet, or quarter-blocks, are single thick, double-stropped, stand athwartships under the yards outside the jeer-strops, and are lashed on top of the yards.

      The size of the lashing should be half the circumference of the strop, and is passed rose-seizing fashion; there is a span put round the strops, under the yards, above the blocks, to keep them in their place; the two eyes of the span are lashed together. After passing sufficient number of turns, take a half-hitch with the end of the lashing, round the middle part of all turns of the lashing, expending the end by passing frapping turns in a fore and aft direction round the centre and both parts of the span.

      The truss strops are usually of rigging chain; they are four in number, two for shackling the standing parts to, and two for the hauling parts to reeve through; they are lashed on the same as rope strops, the starboard truss standing part up and inside, the port truss standing part down and outside.

      The clew garnet-blocks are single stropped, standing athwartships, and are lashed at twice the length of the block outside of the truss-strop, the blocks underneath the yard a little before the centre, so as to be clear of the topsail-sheets. The size of the lashing should be one-third the circumference of the strop, and passed rose-seizing fashion.

      Rolling-tackle strop is generally a grommet; an eye is formed in it and parcelled over on top of the yard, abaft the jackstay, and then it is driven taut up on the quarter, at two-thirds out from the slings, to the quarter iron.

      Lower-yard slings are two pieces of chain, the length of each piece is about 2 ft. more than once the round of the yard, more or less, according to the size of the yard; there is a ring welded in one end of each piece, and a long link at the other end, to receive the bolt of a shackle that connects the slip; in reeving them round the centre of the yard the ends with the rings come up the aft side, and the two ends with the long links come up the fore side, and reeve through the ring; the slings are hauled well taut, and seized to the ring, taking care to keep the ring well forward; a shackle with its bolt through the two end links, is connected to the slings, the slip goes through the shackle; the other end of the slip is shackled to the two ends of a piece of chain called the masthead slings.

      A chafing-grommet is a common grommet put on the yardarm, and beat well down for the rigging to lay on.

      Q. How are foot-ropes fitted? – if to go over yard-arm with standing eye – if over goose-neck with a welded thimble.

      A. Foot-ropes are rove through the stirrups, the eyes are put over the yard-arms, and beat well home, or a thimble over the goose-neck; the eyes of the stirrups are placed over the eyebolts of the jackstay, which are previously well served or hitched with spunyarn; the thimbles in the other end of the foot-ropes are secured abaft the yard, in the bunt, to the slings. The length of the foot-rope, from the fork of the eye to the thimble, should be one foot less than the yard is from the centre to the shoulder of the yard-arm. It has been found convenient in large ships to put quarter foot-ropes, which, crossing the bunt from each quarter, enables the men to get a footing on that part of the yard

      Is a strop with a thimble seized in it, placed over the yardarm, and beat well home to the foot-rope.

      The ends are rove through the eyebolt over the eyes of the stirrups, a thimble is then spliced in each end, the eyes over the yard-arm are beat well home to the head-earring strop, a lanyard half the size of the jackstay is placed in one thimble, and rove through the other, by which it is set taut up in the bunt of the yard; a space of at least 6 ins. is left between the two thimbles for this purpose.

      N.B. – All jackstays on lower and topsail yards are now of wire rope, and the thimbles are seized, not spliced in.

      In large ships they are fitted to remain on the yards, the eye is put over the yard-arm, and beat close home to the jackstay; in small ships they are fitted with a hook and thimble, and put on when required for use.

      N.B. – Now the yard-tackle pendant is made of wire-rope it is fitted to a strop that goes over the yard-arm with union thimbles.

      Put the strop over the yard-arm, and beat it close home to the yard-tackle pendants, with the head of the pin of the block upwards. The yard-arm strops are single; those on the blocks are double, so that the blocks may lie horizontally. For greater ease in bracing up, the preventer blocks on the main yard are placed on the fore side.

      Are single, and single-stropped. Put the strop over the yardarm, and beat it close to the brace block.

      Q. How do you rig a crossjack yard

      A. 1st. Topsail-sheet blocks.

2nd. Truss strops.

      There is an iron band round the centre of the yard, with an eye in it, and a shackle to receive the slip, that is shackled to the masthead.

      1st. Foot-ropes.

      2nd. Jackstays.

      3rd. Brace-blocks.

      4th. Standing part of lifts, which are always single.

      Sometimes the topsail-sheets are rove through one double block in the bunt of the yard underneath, reaching the deck on opposite sides, which enables the yard to brace up easier and sharper.

      Q. How do you rig a main topsail-yard?

      A. 1st. Tye-blocks are iron-bound, with swivel and lugs, and are connected by a bolt and forelock to an iron band round the yard, the ends of the bolts are covered with leather, and the edges of the iron stopping smoothed down, to prevent them cutting into the masts. Tye-blocks and boom-irons should always be fitted to spare yards.

      2nd. Parrel.

      3rd. Quarter-blocks. These are double blocks, for the topsail clew-line and topgallant-sheet to lead through, single-strop lashed outside parrel, and on top of the yard, lashing half the size of strop.

      4th. Rolling tackle strop, is a grommet-strop made round the yard, with a thimble seized in it, and is placed half way out from the centre of the yard to the shoulder or cleat.

      A pendant, for sending the topsail-yard up and down, is fitted with a running-eye round the quarter of the topsail-yard, the other end has an eye spliced in it; it is well parcelled for hooking the sail tackle to, and is lashed close outside the quarter-strop, on the opposite side of the yard.

1st. Chafing grommet, fitted the same as lower yard.

      2nd. Foot-ropes, fitted with an eye to go over the yardarms, and beat close home to the chafing-grommet; an eye spliced in the other end, and seized to the opposite quarter of the yard; sometimes the outer eye goes over the goose-neck instead of the yard-arm; when fitted this way an additional stirrup is required on the shoulder of the yard-arm.

      3rd. Head-earring strop, fitted the same as a lower yard.

      4th. Jackstay, fitted the same as lower yard.

      5th. Brace-blocks. The strop is put over the yard-arm and beat close home to the jack stay.

      6th. Lift-blocks, if double lifts; if single lifts, the standing part of lift; in the case of single lifts, the eye goes over the yard-arm close to the brace-block; in the case of double lifts, the strop of the block goes over the yard-arm, and is beat close home to the strop of the brace-block.

      7th. Second reef-tackle block. The blocks on the topsail-yards for the second reef-tackle are attached to the strop with union thimbles, the strop going with lashing eyes round the yard-arm outside all rigging.

      8th. Flemish horse. A thimble is spliced in the outer end which goes over the goose-neck, an eye is spliced in the

inner end and is seized inside the shoulder, at the distance of once and a half the length of the yard-arm from the shoulder. Not required when foot ropes go to goose-neck.

      Topsail-yards (now that reef-beckets have come into general use) are fitted with two jackstays, so that by having two rows of toggles, the reef-beckets may be, more clear of each other, when there are two or more reefs in.

      The only difference in the rigging of a fore and main topsail-yard is, there are no jewel-blocks to a main topsail-yard, now that main-topmast studdingsails are done away with in the Navy.

      The difference in rigging a mizen topsail-yard from a main or fore is, the Flemish horse is fitted with clip-hooks to the eyebolt at the yard-arm, and the brace-blocks face forward.

      A parrel to a topsail yard is what a truss is to a lower yard, or a traveller on a boat's mast is to the yard of the sail it is hooked to. It consists of two pieces of rope which are wormed, parcelled, and served, and an eye spliced in each end; one piece is shorter than the other, and is placed, the centre of the short leg on top of the centre of the long leg, seize them together with two short flat seizings, fill up the cutling with strands, and cover the parrel with leather. When in use the parrel is placed abaft the topmast, taking care to have the seam of the leather outside. The long legs are passed underneath the yards, up before all, and lashed to the short legs with a piece of rope called a parrel-lashing: in shifting topsail-yards, only one lashing is cast adrift, so the parrel always remains fast to the yard. A small greasy mat is secured to the yard between it and the mast. The length of the long leg, when fitted, will be from eye to eye, twice the round of the yard, and two-thirds the round of the topmast; and the length of the short leg, when fitted from eye to eye, will be two-thirds the round of the topmast; allowing four times the round of the rope on each leg for splicing the two eyes, will give the proper length to cut the rope for fitting a topsail parrel without waste; the ends are put in once and a half.

      Q. How do you rig a topgallant yard?

      A. 1st. The slings. Put a strop on the centre of the yard with a thimble seized in it.

      2nd. The parrel.

      3rd. Quarter blocks, which are double for the royal sheets and topgallant clewlines to reeve through.

      4th. A grommet-strop, placed one-third out from the centre

with a thimble seized in it. Through this the lizard is rove when the yard-rope is stopped out.

      1st. The foot-ropes.

      2nd. Head-earring strop.

      3rd. The jackstay.

      4th. Braces.

      5th. Lifts.

      The jackstay is secured to the yard by strips of leather nailed over it.

      Royal yards are rigged in a similar way,

      A topgallant parrel consists of two strops, one long, and one short; the long strop is spliced round the yard, and has two seizings on it, one close to the yard, the other to seize a thimble in. The short one is spliced round the yard with a thimble seized in it; they are served with spunyarn, and, like a topsail parrel, are covered with leather.

      The long strop is put on the port side of the fore and mizen, and on the starboard side of the main topgallant yard. The parrel lashing is spliced in the eye of the long strop. When secured in place, the lashing comes on the quarter of the mast; pass three or four turns with the lashing through the thimbles of the strop, and hitch it round its own part.

      For the long strop. Take once the round of the yard, once the round of the mast, and once the round of the rope, which would be the length to marry the strop: then allow sufficient end to splice it.

      The short strop is spliced round the yard with a thimble seized in it.

      Take once the round of the yard, once the round of the thimble, and twice the round of the rope. The strands of the splice are put in once and a half, and served all over. The strops are spliced, served, and the seizings put on before placing them on the yard

      N.B. – A royal parrel is fitted in a similar way.

      Q. Reeve the running gear of a course?

      A. fore and main tack and sheet-blocks are clump-blocks, with a thimble in the strop to shackle to the clew of the sail.

      Splice a running eye in the end of the standing part, and put it over the bumpkin; reeve the other end through the tack-block in the clew of the sail, from forward aft, through the block on the bumpkin, from out in, though the sheave hole in the bulwark inboard. If fitted with slips, fit the standing part of tack with a thimble.

      Splice a hook in the standing part, and hook it to an eye-bolt in the deck, placed for that purpose, near the main tack block; reeve the other end through the block on the clew of the sail, from forward aft, and through the main tack block on the deck from forward aft.

      The standing part is sometimes fitted with a slip.

      Splice a hook in the end of the standing part, and hook it to an eye-bolt abaft the channels; reeve the other end through the sheet-blocks in the clew of the sail, from out in, and through the sheave near the standing part inboard.

      Take the end up through the clew garnet-block on the lower yard, reeve it from in out, down through the clew garnet-block, which is lashed or shackled to the clew of the sail from in out, take the end up, and secure it round the lower yard, outside the quarter-block, with a timber hitch.

      Reeve the buntlines, through the upper sheave of the buntline-block, then reeve both ends through the double-block, which is hooked to the foremost eyebolt of the lower cap on either side, from aft forward, down through the sheave holes in the fore part of the top; round the buntline-block, close up to the double block, then bend the ends of the buntlines to the foot of the course, either by toggling or clenching them. The buntline-whip is rove through the lower sheave of he buntline-block, and both ends led down through lubber's-hole on deck, and are rove through blocks or sheave holes. Two single blocks, in one strop, on end, are sometimes used instead of fiddle-blocks, as buntline-blocks; they are called shoe-blocks. When there is sufficient drift, buntlines are sometimes rove with single legs, and double whips. The ends of the legs are rove through thimbles, spliced into the inner holes at the foot of the courses, and made fast to the outer holes.

      They are rove through a double-block under the top, from in out, down through the leech-line blocks that are seized on the jackstay of the lower yards before the sail, and are clenched or toggled to the leech of the sail; there are two on each side in large ships, but only one in small vessels.

      They are rove through a double-block, on the quarter of the yard, from in out, through the slab-line blocks seized on the jackstay of the lower yard, between the yard and the sail, down abaft the course, and are clenched or toggled to the leech of the sail, in a similar way to a leech-line; when there are two leech-lines of a side, there are also two slab-lines; in taking a course in they act the same as a brail would to a fore and aft sail.

      It is a single rope rove through a tail block, fast to the slings of the lower yards, it leads down abaft the sail, and is clenched to the foot.

      Reeve the end of the fall through a leading block at the lower cap, from in out, through a cheek in the lower yard-arm from in out, then through a block which is secured to the reef-cringle in the leech of the sail by clip-hooks, from in out, and make the end fast to the boom-iron with an inside clinch, the other end of the fall is led on deck, with sufficient length to admit of lowering the sail on deck; thus, in shifting or bending courses, there is no necessity for using a Burton.

      It is a single rope, with a clasp-hook in one end, to hook to the bunt becket, and rove through a single block, lashed to one of the upper links of the lower slings; the hauling part being led on deck.

      Reeve it through the block on the bowsprit, from down up; splice a running eye in the end, and bend it over a toggle in the bowline-bridle, in the leech of the foresail. The fore bowline-blocks on the bowsprit are span-blocks, fitted round and under the bowsprit, outside the inner forestay collar.

      The main bowline is fitted with a light runner and tackle; the runner is rove through a thimble, which is attached to the lower bowline-bridle, on the leech of the mainsail, by a slip toggle; the runner and tackle are hooked forward by the foremast, and is always shifted from side to side in working ship, by the first part of quarter-deck men.

inner end of the chain, reeve it down through the cheek at the lower yard-arm, in through the rollers underneath the lower yard, through the gin in the slings of the yard, and secure it to the lugs of the whip-block by a bolt; the standing part of the whip is made fast to an eyebolt in the deck, and the hauling part is rove through a sheave-hole in the bitts, or a leading block; the other end of the sheet is secured to the clew of the topsail with clasp hooks or shackled. The cheek at the lower yard-arm is of iron when it is intended to reeve chain sheets.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, reeve it through the foremost sheave of the quarter-block on the topsail-yard, from in out, through the block which is lashed on the after part of the clew of the sail, from in out, and secure it round the quarter of the topsail-yard outside the quarter-block, with a timber-hitch.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, through the cheek of the tressletrees at the topmast-head, from aft forward, down through the thimble of the buntline-span; splice a running eye in the end, and place it over the buntline-toggle, in the foot of the sail. In reeving a buntline that has been in use, or with a running eye already spliced in it, reeve it the reverse way, that is, place the eye over the toggle in the foot of the topsail, reeve the other end up through the thimble of the buntline-span, through the cheek of the topmast tressletrees, from forward aft, and pay the end down through lubber's-hole on deck, and reeve it through its proper sheave in the bitts.

      Q. What are buntline spans, and their use?

      A. Buntline spans are simply two pieces of rope, about 2 ins. Or 2? ins. in size, according to the size of the topsail, and about one fathom and a half in length, with a thimble spliced in one end, through which the buntlines are rove, the other ends are knotted abaft the tye (in harbour) with a reef knot, and round the neck of the tye block at sea; the reason the buntline span is secured round the neck of the tye block at sea, is to prevent the foot of the sail rising above the yard, also to spill the sail in taking the third or fourth reef in.

Take the end up through lubber's-hole, inside the topmast

rigging, through the upper sheave of the sister block, from in out, down through the sheave at the yard-arm; through the reef-tackle block, from in out, and secure the end round the goose-neck with an inside clinch.

      To reeve the second reef-tackle, take it up through lubber's-hole through a tail-block at the topmast-head, from in out, down through the block on the yard-arm, and bend it to the second reef-tackle cringle in the sail with a half-hitch, and the end seized back, or with clip-hooks if a single reef-tackle. The second reef-tackle cringle is placed between the second and third reef-cringles.

      If a double reef-tackle, it is rove through a block, toggled or hooked to the cringle in the leech of the sail, and secured with an inside clinch round the goose-neck of the topsail-yard.

      Take the end out through the sheave-hole in the head-rail, through the sheave-hole in the bees of the bowsprit, or through a block at the bowsprit end: splice a running eye in the end, and place it over the toggle in the lower bowline bridle in the leech of the sail.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole through a block lashed to the eyes of the fore rigging, and bend it with a running eye over the toggle of the middle bowline bridle in the leech of the main topsail.

      Take the end up through the inner sheave of the double block the crossjack brace is rove through, splice a running-eye, and put it over the toggle on the lower bowline bridle, in the leech of the mizen topsail, in a similar manner to the main and fore.

      A bunt-whip consists of three single blocks, forming a runner and tackle. The runner-block is fitted with a long tail, which is secured round the topmast-head, or a thimble in the strop, and lashed under the crosstrees, or to the necklace; one end of it has a hook spliced in it for hooking to the bunt-becket – the other end, the upper block of the tackle, is

turned in it. The lower block of the tackle is fitted with a tail, or a thimble, in the strop of a block, and is secured to the eyes of the lower rigging; when not in use it is hooked to a strop, to the eyes of the lower rigging, and kept up and down the mast; the hauling part is worked from the top.

      This-is simply a single rope, rove through a block, under the topmast crosstrees with a hook spliced in one end for hooking it to the bunt-becket; the hauling part is on deck. It is used when hauling out to, or furling from a bowline

      To reeve a topgallant sheet, take the end up through lubber's-hole, through the after sheave of the quarter-block on the topsail yard, from in out, up through the cheek at the yard-arm, before the lift and reef-tackle, up through the clew of the topgallant-sail, and place the sennit-eye over the spring-toggle, which is seized in the clew of the sail.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, through the foremost sheave of the quarter-block, on the topgallant yard from in out, and bend it to the clew of the topgallant-sail with a sheet-bend.

      A topgallant buntline is a single buntline, fitted with two legs, each leg has a running eye spliced in the end of it, which goes over the toggle in the foot of-the topgallant-sail, the other end is rove through the thimble of the lizard of the yard-rope, which acts as a buntline-span, then through a block from forward aft, which block is seized to the eye of the topgallant stay, down into the top, or through lubber's-hole on deck.

      Take the end out, and reeve it from down up, through a span-block, which is fitted round the jib-boom funnel or seized to the jib-guys, and bend it to leech of the topgallant-sail, with a running-eye over the toggle. A main topgallant bowline is rove up through a sheave-hole, in the after part of the fore topmast crosstrees; a mizen topgallant bowline is rove through a block seized to the main topmast shrouds.

      To reeve a royal sheet, take the end up through lubber's-hole if led on deck; if not, out of the top, up between the crosstrees, through the after-sheave in the quarter-block on the topgallant-yard, from in out, up through the cheek or sheave-hole at the yard-arm, up before the lift, and bend it to the clew of the royal with a sennit-eye over a spring toggle.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, if led on deck, or out of the top between the crosstrees, reeve it through the quarter-block on the royal yard, from in out, and bend it to the clew of the royal with a sheet bend. In large ships, royal sheets and clewlines are generally worked from the tops, and not led on deck.

      Take the end up the starboard side abaft all, reeve it from aft forward, through the jib halyard-block, then make a bowline with the end round the jibstay, pay it down, splice a thimble, with a clasp-hook on a swivel in the end, and hook it to the head of the jib.

      Take the end out on the starboard side through the sheave-hole in the head-rail, through the jib downhaul-block at the jib-boom end, up through the upper hank or grommet,^* and bend it to the head of the jib or over the thimble in the jib-halyards, with a sheet-bend. Jib-sheets, in large ships, are fitted with double whips and pendants, an eye being formed in the bight of the pendant, and attached to the clew of the jib by a strop and toggle; in some cases they are lashed or fitted with a shackle and screw pin. In small vessels the jib-sheets are single. The luff of a jib is attached to the jibstay by hanks and lacing, and the tack is secured to the jib-boom end with a tack lashing, which is spliced in the tack thimble, two or three turns being passed round the jib-boom, and through the thimble in the tack of the jib, and the end hitched round its own part; sometimes it is fitted with a strop and toggle instead of a tack-lashing.

      Take the end up the port side, abaft all, reeve it from aft forward through the flying jib halyard-block, and pay it down on deck the port side of all the stays, splice a clasp-hook on a swivel in the end, and hook it to the head of the flying jib.

      Reeve it through the sheave-hole in the head-rail on the port side, take it out underneath the man-ropes, and over the jib-guys, through the flying jib downhaul block, at the flying jib-boom end, from down up, through the three upper hanks, and bend it to the head of the sail, or over the thimble in the halyards, with a sheet bend. The flying jib is attached to the flying jibstay by a lacing: the tack is secured in like manner to the jib by a tack-lashing round the flying-boom end; the sheets are fitted exactly in a similar way to the jib-sheets, and connected in like manner to the clew of the sail. In small vessels they are single, similar to the jib-sheets, and attached to the sail in the same manner.

      To reeve the fore topmast staysail halyards, take the end up the port side, through the fore topmast staysail halyard-blocks (which is shackled the port side of the topmast-necklace) from aft forward, down before all, through the block which is hooked to the head of the sail, send the end aloft, and secure it to a link in the topmast necklace close to the halyard-block. These halyards are of great use in shifting the fore topsail or jib-boom.

      Reeve the end out on the port side, through the head-rail, through the downhaul-block on the bowsprit end, from down up, up through the three upper hanks, and make it fast with a sheet-bend to the head of the sail. Tack lashing is spliced in the thimble in the tack of the sail, and passed two or three times round the bowsprit, each turn being passed through the thimble in the tack of the sail, the end is hitched round all parts of the lashing. Fore topmast staysails are seized to hanks round the port fore topmast stay. If a lacing is used instead of hanks. it is only rove through every other eyelet-

hole in the luff of the sail, and round the stay: being seized to the eyelet-holes, it is not rove through. The sheets are fitted with whips and a pendant.

      Take the end up the port side, through lubber's-hole, and reeve it through the port sheave of the double-block, which is iron-stropped and hooked to the after part of the mizen lower cap; then down abaft the top, through the outer block on the gaff, from forward aft, up through the starboard-sheave of the double-block at the cap, from up down; down abaft the top again, and through the inner block on the gaff, from aft forward, send the end aloft, and secure it round the neck of the double-block with a running-eye.^*

      The standing part of the peak-halyards is frequently made fast with a running-eye round the mizen topmast head, in which case they are rove through the inner block on the gaff first, from aft forward, and through the outer block last, from forward aft, but in the same way as before, through the double-block on the after part of the lower cap.

      Take the end up the starboard side, abaft the mast, reeve it through the foremost sheave in the chock, abaft the trysail-mast, from starboard to port; down through the throat halyard-block on the jaws of the gaff, from port to starboard, up through the after-sheave in the chock, from starboard to port; then send the end down, and secure it with a running-eye over the neck or lower part o? the block on the gaff. If the gaff is fitted with a double-block, or a span with two single blocks round the jaws, the standing part is made fast round the neck of the upper block, or through a hole in the chock, with a stopper-knot.

      Reeve the end up through the sheave in the boom-end through a clump-block, fitted either with a lashing-eye or a clip-hook, to the clew of the sail, from forward aft, and secure it over the boom-end by an eyesplice; sometimes it is fitted

with a pendant and whip, in which case a block is spliced in the end of the pendant, and the other block of the whip is hooked to an eyebolt, under the jaws of the boom.

      When a spanker is fitted at the head with an outhaul and inhaul, the head of the sail is attached to small iron hoops which travel on an iron rod underneath the gaff.

      The outhaul is fitted with a pendant and whip. The pendant is rove through a clump-block, which is lashed to the gaff end; one end of the pendant has a thimble and hook spliced in it, for hooking to the head-earring thimble in the sail, the other end has a thimble, or one of the blocks of the whip spliced in it; the other block of the whip is fitted with a hook, which is hooked to a strop at the jaws of the gaff. It is frequently made of chain, in which case a treble ironbound block is hooked to the lower cap instead of a double-block for the peak-halyards, the third sheave is used to reeve the chain outhaul through.

      The inhaul is a single rope, with a hook spliced in it, which is hooked to the thimble in the head of the sail, led along the gaff through a block at the jaws of the gaff on deck.

      The tack-tricing line is a double whip, the upper block secured to the jaws of the gaff, and the lower block is fitted with a tail, which is bent to a thimble in the lower part of the luff of the sail.

      Span-blocks are fitted on the gaff or the inner and outer peak-brails. The outer blocks are single, and seized round

the gaff two-thirds out; the inner blocks are double, and seized on, one-third out on the gaff. Both the inner and outer peak-brails are rove through them.

      The throat-brails are rove through a block seized to the jaws of the gaff.

      The middle brails are rove through single blocks fitted with a span round the trysail mast, half way down, or seized to the tuff of the sail.

Small vessels are only fitted with one peak-brail.

      A treble block is now seized to the jaws of the gaff, which takes the peak and the throat-brails, therefore a fiddle-block is now used on the gaff for the inner peak-brails.

      They are each in one piece of rope, and when the sail is bent and hoisted, the position for the brails is determined on; they are middled, and the bight of each brail seized to the after-leech of the sails, as marked, and rove through their respective blocks, from aft forward down on deck.

      In large screw or sailing ships there are two double blocks on the boom, and three single blocks each side of the ship aft, one acting as a leading block; the standing part of the sheet is spliced in the eye-bolt at the boom-end.

      For small screws and paddle-wheel steam-vessels, there are two double and two single blocks, the single block being on the boom, the standing part is made fast to an eye-bolt in the boom-end; where there is a stern gun, the blocks in the quarter should be fitted with a shackle.

      In brigs, boom-sheets are rove through two double blocks on the boom, and two double blocks, and a leading block inboard on the quarter. Reeve the end through the leading block, from forward aft, through the lower sheave of the block on the boom from aft forward, through the lower sheave of the double block inboard from forward aft, so on, until the fall is rove in full, making the end fast round the boom, end with an eye-splice, or splicing it into an eye-bolt.

Is a pendant with a hook spliced in one end, and a single

block in the other; the fall is rove through another single block with a hook, the standing part is spliced in the ass of the block, in the pendant.

      When in use, the pendant goes round the boom, and hooks to its own part between the topping-lifts and sheets, the block of the fall is hooked in the main chain for a brig, and the wizen for a ship; it is used when running free, to steady the boom.

      A jaw rope is apiece of rope rove through a hole in the jaws of the boom or gaff, from out in. A stopper-knot is worked in the end to keep it from coming through; it is passed round before the mast through a number of round pieces of wood, called trucks, through another hole in the jaws of the boom or gaff on the opposite side, from in out, and a figure-of-eight knot is made in the end, to keep it from slipping through; it is to a boom or gaff what a parrel is to a yard.

      The standing part is spliced round a thimble to an eye-bolt attached to an iron band round the boom, about 12 ft. from the outer end, and is rove through a clump-block, iron-bound – in a brig, bolted to the main tressletrees, and in a ship, bolted to the mizen tressletrees, from aft forward, down, through the snatch on the boom, A thimble is spliced in the end for hooking the tackle to.

      The tackle is rove through a single and a fiddle-block, the standing part of the fall being spliced in the ass of the single-block; the fiddle-block is hooked to the weather-topping lift, and the single-block to an eye-bolt under the jaws of the boom. A stopper is fitted round the boom, inside the snatch, for stopping the topping-lift in tacking, so as to shift the tackle.

      When the topping-lift is fitted single, after the end is rove through the clump-block at the tressletrees, a double-block is spliced in the end, and a fall is rove to a single block, hooked either in the chains or by the mast.

      Vangs in large ships are double, and in small vessels single. There is an iron band round the gaff a short space, or about one-seventh in from the gaff end, with an eye-bolt

on either side of it; to these eye-bolts, the vang-blocks, which are single iron-bound blocks, are hooked with clasp -hooks.

      The vangs are rove through the blocks, the standing part is spliced, if double, round a thimble in an eye-bolt in the ship's side, close to the fife-rail, or eye-splice put over the under part of a belaying pin, the hauling part rove through a sheave close to it.

      In large ships they are fitted with a pendant and whip; the standing part of the pendant is spliced round a thimble in the eye-bolt in the gaff, and a single block is spliced in the other end, through which the whip is rove, the hauling part being rove through a sheave in the fife-rail, and the standing part secured, as described for a vang.

      The end is merely spliced round the thimble in the eye-bolt on the gaff, and the other end rove through a sheave in the fife-rail.

      Take the end up before the top, through the span-block at the foretop masthead, from in out, down before the boom through the block at the topmast studsail boom-end, down on the forecastle, and bend it to the middle of the yard, to which the outer half of the sail is laced, with a studsail halyard-bend.

      The halyards are sometimes bent only one-third out, according to the size of the sail.

      The inner halyards are simple double whips; the upper block being fitted with a tail, which is hitched to the collar or the forestay; the lower block is either fitted with a hook or tail, and made fast to the inner corner of the head of the lower studsail.

      Reeve the end out through the sheave-hole in the gangway, through the tack-block at the swinging boom-end, and bend it to the clew of the sail with a sheet-bend, or a running-eye and cross toggle, the long and short sheets are formed out of one piece of rope. The sheets are rove through the thimble in the inner clew according to the length required, crossed and seized; the long sheet is rove through a tail-block, fast to the foremost dead-eye, through one of the ports inboard;

the short sheet is merely passed over the netting inboard,and is only used for taking the sail in.

      Take the end up abaft the foreyard, and reeve it through a block under the top, or secured to the foremast-shroud of fore-rigging, through a block on the inner yard-arm of the lower studsail-yard, through a thimble in the after-part of the sail, and bend it to the tack with a sheet-bend.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, through the span-block at the topmast-cap from in out, down through the jewel-block on the goose-neck of the topsail yard-arm, between the yard and the boom, down abaft the lower yard inside the brace, and bend it to the yard to which the head of the sail is laced with a studsail halyard-bend one-third out.

      Take the tack up outside of the backstays and lower rigging, out to the lower yard-arm under the brace, reeve it from aft forward, through the tack-block at the topmast studsail boom-end, then in over the fore-brace, down on deck, and bend it with a sheet-bend to the clew of the sail.

      The hauling part is rove through the inner sheave of double block, secured by a tail to the foremost shroud of the main rigging, the boom-brace being rove through the outer sheave of the same block, or through two sheaves in the ship's side, just before the gangway.

      Reeve the end up through the downhaul-blocks, which is seized to the outer clew of the sail, up abaft the sail, through a thimble on the outer leech; splice a running-eye in the end, and place it over the outer yard-arm inside the earring.

      Are fitted with two sheets, a long and a short one; the long one is worked from the deck, and the short one from the top, passing under the heel of the boom.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, through the span-block at the topgallant-mast head, from in out, down through

a block at the topgallant yard-arm, before the yard, into the top, and bend it to the yard to which the sail is laced with a studsail halyard-bend one-third out.

      Reeve the end out through a block seized below the after dead-eye in the top, up, under, and outside the topsail-brace, through the tack-block at the topgallant studsail boom-end, in over the brace, and bend it with a sheet-bend to the outer clew of the sail.

      The downhaul is bent to the inner yard-arm and led into the top.

      The sheets are led over the topsail-yard into the top. Topgallant studsails have only one sheet. They are set and taken in from the top.

      When blowing fresh, and a topmast-studsail is set, the lower studsail-halyards are often converted into a martingale for the topmost studsail-boom; by taking an overhand-knot in them above the boom, placing a toggle to prevent the knot from jambing, and hauling down on the underneath part, which is either rove through an eye-bolt in the forecastle or secured to a cleat.

      Both ends of the fall are fitted with beckets for bending a reeving line to. Reeve the end through the sheave-hole of the main-bitts, the starboard side of the main deck, from aft forward, up through the fair leader in the upper deck aloft and through the starboard sheave of the upper jeer-block, under the main top, from aft forward, down through the starboard jeer-block on the yard from forward aft, up through the port sheave of the upper block, from aft forward, down through the port jeer-block on the yard, from forward aft, and secure the end either round the strop of the upper block, to the tressletrees, or round the lower masthead; the fall thus rove forms five parts. When used, the hauling part is brought to the after-capstan, on the main deck, in all large ships. In small vessels it is worked on the upper deck.

      The fore jeers are rove in a similar way, commencing on the port-side first, and are worked in all large ships by the foremast capstan on the main deck.

      When the main and fore-yards are up, and hung by the slings, the long jeers are unrove, and the sea jeers rove exactly

in the same way with respect to the lead through the jeer-blocks, only the end of the falls do not come on deck, they are expended round all parts of the fall and hitched; in the event of the chain-slings carrying away, the short jeers take the weight of the yards, and prevents them from being sprung, which sometimes occurs.

      The cross-jackyard is sent up and down by the mizen burton, which is two double blocks.

      Take the end up through lubber's-hole, reeve it through the after-sheave in the block at the lower cap, from in out, down before the rigging, through the lift-block at the lower yard-arm, from out in, up through the foremost sheave of the block at the cap, from in out, splice a running-eye in the end of it, worm and serve it, and place it over the yard-arm. In some cases it is clenched, and about two fathoms end left to act as a stopper for the topsail-sheets.

      Cross-jack lifts are single, being either rove through blocks hooked to the lower cap, or passed over a saddle which is scored out on top of the lower cap, they go over the yardarm with an eye-splice – a thimble or block is spliced in the other end by which they are set up.

      Reeve the end through the sheave in the main bitts, from aft forward, up through the block at the cheek of the mainmast from aft forward, take the end forward outside all the rigging, through the brace block on the fore-yard, from out in, and secure the end with an eye-splice round the same eyebolt, as the block is stropped on at the cheeks of the mainmast head.

      The starboard-brace is fitted with a tricing-line, in large ships, from the mainstay, so as to be able to frap the brace in out of the way, in shifting main topsail-yards.

      Reeve the end through the main brace-block on the quarter from in out, through the brace-block on the yard, from out in, turn a double block in the end, reeve a purchase to a single block, which is hooked to an eye-bolt close to the main brace-block on the quarter; this purchase is for hauling the brace taut, after the slack has been gathered in on the long end.

      A tricing-line is fitted either side, for the purpose of tricing the lee brace up clear of the quarter davits; they have two legs to them, with thimbles through which the after main-braces are rove, the tricing-line is rove through a tail or lashing-block secured to the after main shroud on either side above the necklace.

      Reeve the end through the sheave-hole at the fore bitts from aft forward, up through the outer sheave of the double block at the cheek of the foremost head, through the preventer brace-block on the main-yard from out in, and down through the inner sheave of the double blocks at the cheeks of the foremost head; both ends are led through pipes or fair-leaders, down through the sheaves on to the main deck, where they are always worked in large ships.

      These braces are frequently led across for the convenience of working ship.

      Reeve the end through the sheave in the fife-rail of main rigging, through the outer sheave of the double block fast to the necklace at the mainmast-head, through the brace-block on the yard-arm, from out in, and splice the end in one of the links of the main-necklace, close to the double block; these braces are frequently led across for the convenience of working ship.

      Reeve them through the clump-blocks which are ironbound and shackled to a bolt in the after part of the trestletrees, from aft forward, through the thimble of the truss-strop on the yard, from up down, through an iron clamp abaft the mast, which has a division in it, one for the upper, the other for the lower pendant, so as to keep them from riding, and also to keep them up in place, and shackle them to the truss-strop on the opposite side of the yard.

      The ends of the pendants hang about two-thirds of the way down to the deck, and have a double iron-bound block shackled to each, through which the falls are rove.

      In reeving the pendant the standing part will be inside the hauling part of the one rove first, and outside the hauling part of the one rove last.

      A single iron-bound block is hooked to the deck, abaft the mast with a ring in the ass of it for the standing part of the fall to be spliced, the end of the fall is rove up through the double block from forward aft, down through the single block from aft forward, up through the double block from forward aft, and then through a sheave in the fife-rail.

      A tricing-line is fitted to the tress pendants, it is spliced in a thimble fast to the same shackle as the double or upper block of the fall, or about half-way down, and rove through a single block seized to the after-shroud above the futtock-rigging, so as to light them up in working ship. Small ships have only a single iron-bound block in the pendant for the falls.

      When a fore or main-yard is fitted with rope pendants, the standing part is secured round the yard with a running-eye, and the fall is rove through the sheave-holes in the after-part of the trestletrees in the following way: the standing part of the fall is rove with a running-eye round the trues-pendants, rove through the inner sheave on the trestletrees, from forward aft, through the block in the truss-pendant, from aft forward, through the outer sheave in the trestletrees, from forward aft, and then through a sheave in the fife-rail on deck.

      The cross jack trusses are always fitted in this way. The single block in the end of the pendant is seized in what is termed a soft-eye, which is to admit of the block being turned out easily in sending the yard down.

      Take the end up through the upper sheave of the fiddle-block in the yard-tackle pendant, from in out, through the lower block, from out in, up through the lower sheave in the fiddle-block, from in out, and splice the end in the ass of the lower block. The hauling part is rove through a leading-block, placed as convenient.

      A yard-tackle pendant and whip is fitted with two tricing-lines, viz.: a quarter and bill tricing-line.

      The end is rove through a leading block fitted with a tail, or seized to the after-part of the lower yard on the quarter, out through a block seized to the jackstay, which hangs down abaft the yard, and sufficiently far in to bring the pendant, when triced up taut, along the yard; the end is secured with a running-eye between the two sheaves of the fiddle-block, the hauling part is rove through a sheave in the fife-rail on deck.

      The end is rove through a block seized close up to the seizing of the eyes of the lower rigging, the thud shroud from forward, an eye is spliced in the end, it is then rove through the thimble in the lower block of the whip, and placed over the bill of the hook.

      The hauling part is rove through a sheave next to the quarter tricing-line in the fife-rail on deck.

      When the yard-tackle and whip are triced up, the lower block of the whip is hooked to a strop round the same shroud, and close to the bill-tricing line-block.

      A luff-tackle is used for this purpose, the single block being hooked to the strop on the yard, the double block to a strop round the lower masthead above the necklace; the end of the fall is rove through a leading block or spare sheave in the bitts.

      Frequently the yard-tackle pendant and whip is used instead of a rolling-tackle, by letting go the quarter and bill tricing-lines, bringing it along the yard, and hooking the single block of the yard-whip to a strop round the lower masthead, above the necklace, and hooking a snatch-block to the same strop for the hauling part of the fall, so as to give it a fair lead on deck, where it is rove through a leading block or spare sheave in the bitts.

      Fore and main topsail-yards, in large ships, are fitted with two tyes, one on either side, a. long and a short tye; the long tye is used for shifting topsail-yards. In the lower end of the tye a is spliced a long-eye, in which the fly-block is seized; the other end is rove (if the starboard-tye) through the starboard hanging block at the topmast-head, shackled to the topmast necklace from aft forward, down through the starboard tye-block, which is a swivel-block, bolted to the iron band round the topsail-yard, from aft forward; the end is then sent aloft, hauled taut round the topmast-head, hitched to its own part, and the spare end stopped down to the foremost shroud, leaving sufficient drift for the fly-block to hang in a line with the lower cap; hook the lower halyard-block to the after part of the chains, and reeve the halyards.

      The standing part of the halyards is spliced in the ass of the upper fly-block, and rove through the lower block for the fore, from aft forward, through the upper block, from forward aft, and then through the sheave in the topsail-halyard bitts, or through a leading block hooked to an iron spur in the ship's side, from forward aft.

      A main is rove in a similar way, only the hauling part is led forward; and in large ships it is led through a pipe on to the main deck, through a leading-block, and there secured to a Samson-post.

      A mizen topsail-yard, in small vessels, has only a single tye, which is rove through the sheave ,in the topmast-head, and shackled to the yard.

      The halyards are rove on the port side exactly, and in the same way as the fore, and in line of battle ships worked on the poop.

      In large ships the tye is generally rove on the bight in the following way: there is only one tye-block on a mizen topsail-yard, the tye is rove through either the starboard or port hanging-block at the topmast-head, from aft forward, down through the tye-block on the yard, if rove through the starboard masthead-block first, then reeve from starboard to port through the tye-block on the yard, up through the port hanging-block, from forward aft, splice a long-eye in each end of the tye, and seize the fly-blocks in. The halyards are rove in a similar way to the fore.

      Take the end from the chains up in a line with the third shroud, through lubber's-hole, inside the topmast-rigging, through the lower sheave of the sister-block, from in out, down to the yard-arm; through the topsail lift-block, from in out, send the end aloft, and secure it round the topmast-head with a half-hitch, and the end seized back.

      The lower end is rove through a clump-block in the chains, and in some cases led through a pipe in the ship's side inboard.

      To reeve it. Take the end out of the top, up inside the topmast rigging, through the lower sheave in the sister-block, from in out, splice an eye in the end, worm and serve it, and place it over the yard-arm.

      A thimble is spliced in the other end, and it is set up in the top with a lanyard.

      A single fore or main topsail-lift is rove in a similar way, only the end is set up in the chains.

      These braces, like the cross jack braces, are frequently led across for the convenience of working ship.

      For lower yards, the yard-tackle pendant and whip is used, the bill and quarter tricing-lines are let go, the single or lower block of the whip is hooked, if the fore, in the main chains, and if the main, in the mizen chains, the hauling part is rove through a sheave in the ship's side, or leading block inboard.

      The sail-tackles are used for preventer-braces, or in some ships, tackles, fitted like sail-tackles, are kept in the tops ready to be used as preventer-braces, so as to have the sail-tackles always available for shifting topsails.

      The pendant of the tackle goes round the yard inside the brace-block, and is hooked to its own part; the lower block is hooked, if a fore topsail-yard, in the main chains, and the hauling part is rove through a tail-block secured to the foremost shroud of the main rigging, about the same height up as the double block for the topmast studsail-tack and boom-brace. If for a main topsail-yard it is secured in a similar way, the lower block being hooked in the mizen chains, and the hauling part rove through a tail-block, fast to the foremost shroud of the mizen rigging, about 10-ft. or 12-ft. above the nettings, or the hauling part is rove through the sheave where the main topmast studsail-tack was formerly rove when it was used in the Navy.

      A top-Burton, or jigger, is used for this purpose; the single block is hooked to the quarter-strop, and the double block to a strop round the topmast, above the parrell; if a jigger is used, the hauling part is in the top, but if a Burton, the hauling part is sent down through lubber's-hole on deck,

      Reeve the end through the sheave in the bitts, from aft forward, up through lubber's-hole through the sheave-hole in the topgallantmast-head, from aft forward, pay the end down before all, through the grommet and lizard, and bend it with a studsail halyard-bend to the slings of the yard. At sea, a topgallant purchase is used on the yard-rope or halyard.

      In large ships it is a purchase rove through two double blocks, the upper block is fitted with two tails, for dogging round the yard-rope, the lower block is a hook-block, ironbound, hooked on deck. When in harbour, the upper block is made fast to the after-shroud, above the futtock-rigging. The main is worked the starboard side, and the fore and mizen the port side of the deck.

      An eye is spliced in one end, served and marled to the eye of the brace ready to go over the yard-arm; in large ships, where double-braces are used, it is marled to the eye of the brace-block; the other end is rove through a roller or thimble, from out in, and (in large ships through a sister-block seized in the topgallant-shrouds), down inside the topmast-rigging into the top; a thimble is spliced in the end, and they are set up with a lanyard, i.e., the starboard lift of the fore and wizen, and the port of the main, they are called the short lifts. The other lifts, that is the port lifts of the fore and mizen, and the starboard lift of the main, are rove through thimbles secured by a strop to the eyes of the lower rigging, belayed to a cleat at the lower masthead, and are called the long lifts, so as to admit of the topgallant-yards canting; and is easily let go.

      Reeve the end up through the sheave in the main fife-rail and lubber's-hole, and the block under the main topmast-crosstrees, through a leading-block fast to the collar of the main topmast-stay; if a single brace, splice an eye in the end, and marl it to the fore topgallant lift, ready to go over the yardarm; if a double brace, reeve it through the fore topgallant brace-block, from out in, and make the end fast close to the block on the collar of the main topmast-stay.

      All line of battle ships, and frigates above the sixth class, have double topgallant-braces; the block on the yard-arm, however, is found inconvenient; a good single brace, fitted with a whip under the lead, is found to give sufficient purchase.

      If a single brace, take the end up through lubber's-hole, through a block seized to the foremost shroud of the mizen topmast rigging, high enough to wont over the mizen topsail yard when hoisted. Splice an eye in the end, and place it over the topgallant yard-arm. If a double brace, instead of

      Note. – For the convenience of working ship, the fore topgallant and royal braces often lead forward.

making an eye-splice in the end, it is rove through the brace-block on the topgallant yard-arm, brought back, and secured to the foremost shroud of the mizen-topmast, close to the block; the hauling part is rove through one of the sheaves of the fife-rail abreast the mizen mast.

      If single, take the end up through lubber's-hole, through a block either seized to a bolt on the after-part of the main lower cap, or to the after main-topmast shroud, just below the crosstrees, from forward aft, form an eye-splice, and put it over the yard-arm. If double, the end is rove through the brace-block on the yard-arm, and brought back and secured alongside the block on the after main-topmast shroud; if the block is secured to an eye-bolt in the main lower cap, the standing part of the brace is secured round the ass of the block. The hauling part is rove through a sheave in the fife-rail abreast the main-mast.

      Reeve the end through the sheave in the bitts, up through lubber's hole, through the sheave-hole in the royal masthead, from aft forward, pay the end down before all, through the grommet and lizard, and bend it to the slings of the yard with a studsail halyard-bend.

      Two single blocks are kept rove on the yard-rope, and stopped in the top to form a purchase when the sail is set; one, a hook-block, which is the upper block on the yard-rope, but becomes the lower block of the purchase when rove, is hooked to the lower trestletrees, the other block is fitted with a long strop and eye, the purchase is formed by taking it well up the yard-rope, forming a hitch over the long-eye with a bight of the yard-rope and placing a bight of the yard-rope through the eye in which a toggle is placed, so as to keep it in place, thus forming three parts.

      Topgallant purchases, in small vessels, are the same, the toggle is iron, and well served.

      Splice an eye in one end to go over the yard-arm, and marl it to the outside part of the eye of the brace, reeve the other end through a thimble seized to the royal backstay – in large ships, between the royal shrouds, from out in, down into the top; splice a thimble in the end, and set it up with a lanyard.

      Note. – For the convenience of squaring yards, the ends of the topgallant and royal lifts are rove through thimbles secured to the eyes of the lower rigging, and belayed to cleats at the lower masthead.

      Place the eye, when marled, to the lift over the yard-arm, and reeve the other end through a block seized on the fore part of the main topgallant funnel, from forward aft, and pay the end down between the crosstrees, through lubber's hole on deck, and reeve it through a sheave in the fife-rail.

      Place the eye, when marled, to the lift over the yard-arm, and reeve the other end through a block seized on the fore part of the wizen topgallant-stay, pay the end down between the crosstrees, through lubber's-hole on deck, and reeve it through a sheave in the mizen fife-rail.

      Place the end, when marled, to the lift over the yard-arm, and reeve the other end through a sheave-hole in the after part of the main topmast-crosstrees, through lubber's-hole on deck, through a sheave in the fife-rail.

      They are taken up on either side, inside the fore-rigging, rove through a clump-block, from in out, seized between the second and third shrouds of the fore-rigging, through another clump-block, fitted with a tail for a lizard, which is made fast outside the lift round the yard-arm when getting the boom out; when the boom is square, or fore and aft, the tail-block is rounded close up to the block, seized between the second and third shroud of the fore-rigging, and the tail is coiled snugly down inside the futtock-rigging.

      Reeve the end out through a fair lead in the forecastle-bulwark, through a sheave on the bees of the bowsprit, from in out, through a clump-block on the spritsail-gaff, seized between the jumper and jib-guys, from in out, under the jib-guys, and splice the end round a thimble, through an eye-bolt about one-fourth in from the end of the boom.

      Reeve the end out through the lower sheave in the after part of the waist nettings, and splice the end round a thimble, through an eye-bolt secured to the same band as the eyebolt, and thimble for the fore-guy.

      Take the end up out of the top, inside the topmast rigging, through the upper sheave of the fiddle-block at the topmasthead, from in out; splice an eye in the end, and place it over the boom end; when in use the other end is set up by a jigger in the top.

      Q. How is a fore or main runner and tackle fitted, and the fall rove?

      A. Twice the length of the mast from the deck to the upper part of the trestletrees is the length of the runner, a long eye is spliced in one end to seize the double block of the fall in, similar to the topsail halyard-block in the topsail-tye.

      The length of the fall is four and a half times the length of the mast from the lower cap to the deck.

      The standing part is spliced in the ass of the single block, the hauling part is rove through one of the sheaves of the double block in the end of the runner, then through the single, and through the double block again; when in use the end is rove through a single leading block, which is hooked to a strop or eye-bolt, as convenient.

      A toptackle-pendant has a thimble spliced in one end to hook the upper block of the toptackle-fall to.

      If a main, it is rove up through lubber's-hole, through the top block, hooked to the after eye-bolt, the starboard side of the lower cap, from aft forward, through the sheave in the heel of the topmast, from starboard to port. Make the end fast to the foremost eye-bolt on the port side of the lower cap with a half-hitch, and seize the end back, taking care to well parcel the pendant first in the wake of the eye-bolt. The fore or mizen is rove through the sheave in the heel of the mast from port to starboard.

      The pendant is fitted sufficiently long to house the mast, and allow the upper block of the tackle to be below the futtock-rigging.

      The upper block is a treble or double iron-bound swivel-block, according to the size of the ship, hooked to the thimble in the end of the pendant; the lower block is a similar block,

they are not always both swivel-blocks, in some cases the lower block is a swivel, and the upper a standing block, and vice versa; it is more convenient to have them both swivel-blocks, so as to move readily; take the turns out of the fall in swaying the topmast. The lower block is hooked to an eye-bolt, placed for that purpose on the deck the fall is to be worked; in line of battle ships it is either worked on the main or lower deck, a trap-hatch, about three planks in width, being cut in the upper deck to pass all parts of the fall through. The fall is always rove on the standing part, being the shortest part of the fall; it is rove so as to have the hauling part of the main forward, and of the fore aft.

      Reeve the end through the leading-block which is secured, round the hook of the lower block with a long-eye, from aft forward, up through the trap-hatch, through the upper block from forward aft, so on until the fall is rove in full; the standing part is secured by being hitched round the neck of the upper block, or round the pendant above the thimble; it will greatly depend on the lead you wish, whether it is rove through the inner or outer sheave of the fall blocks first; thus rove, it forms five parts; the main is generally worked the starboard, and the fore and mizen the port side of the deck, depending how the sheave-hole in the mast is cut.

      Reeve the end through the sheave in the bitts from aft forward, up through lubber's-bole, through a sheave in the topmast-cap, or a block hooked to an eye-bolt in the after-part of the topmast-cap, through the lizard, then through the sheave in the heel of the mast, from starboard to port if a main, and port to starboard for a fore and mizen, and make the end fast to the foremost bolt in the topmast-cap with a half-hitch, and seize the end back.

      If the topgallantmasts are on deck, lay them abreast their respective parts of the ship to which they belong, heels aft, and lightning conductors upwards. The halyards are rove through the sheave in the bitts, the starboard or port side, according as the sheave in the heel of the mast is cut. The main is generally cut from starboard to port, and the fore and mizen from port to starboard, up through lubber's-hole, through the sheave in the after-part of the topmast-cap, or a block hooked to an eye-bolt in the after part of the topmast-cap,

down through the tressletrees, through the fork of the topmast-stays, before all, on deck, the side of the lower stay the mast is, through the lizard, through the sheave in the heel of the mast; send the end aloft, and hitch it to the foremost eye-bolt in the topmast-cap, and seize the end back. Secure the lizard with two good half-hitches through the royal sheave-hole, or a hole made for that purpose, about 18-ins. below it, askant through the mast; great care should be observed in securing the lizard well to prevent accidents.

      Reeve the end through the outer sheave of the double block secured by a tail to the foremost shroud of the main rigging, about 10 ft. or 15 ft. above the netting, from aft forward, or through one of the sheaves in the ship's side before the gangway; splice an eye in the end, and place it over the boom-end, inside the topping lift.

      Is fitted with two single blocks; it is used for rigging the boom in or out, or tricing it up; when used in rigging the boom in or out, the hauling part of the fall is rove through a leading block fast to the bunt of the yard on the after side.

      To rig the boom out, the upper block is hooked to a strop round the standing part of the lower lift.

      To rig the boom in, the upper block is hooked to a strop to the slings of the yard.

      To trice the boom up, the upper block is hooked to a strop under the top, and secured by a toggle above.

      The short one is spliced into the eye-bolt in the inner end of the boom, and secured round the jackstay, so as to prevent the boom moving.

      The long heel-lashing is rove through a hole about 1-ft. or 18-ins. from the heel of the boom, an eye is spliced in the outer end, and finished off by forming a wall or stopper-knot, so as to prevent the eye from being drawn through the hole in the boom. This lashing is used to secure the heel of the boom, when it is in use for setting lower or topmast-studsails; it is passed round the quarter-iron through the eye spliced in the other end of it, two or three times, to keep the boom from running in, then two or three frapping turns round the heel of the boom and jackstay, so as to keep it from rising.

      Take the end up out of the top, up inside the topmast rigging, through a single block seized to the foremast shroud of the topmast rigging, above the sister-block, from in out, pay the end down, and splice it in the eye-bolt in the heel of the boom.

      A boom-back is simply a short tricing-line, it is rove through a thimble seized to the foremost shroud of the topmast rigging, high enough to trice the boom up when reefing, furling, or shifting topsails; the end is then spliced in the same eye-bolt as the tricing-line; it is of great use in steadying the boom for the yard-arm men laying in or out.

      The standing part is spliced in the same eye-bolt as the tricing-line in the heel of the boom; when the boom is rigged out for setting studsails, it is rove through the quarter-strop, and through the strop on the heel of the boom, two or three times, to keep the boom from running in, with two or three frapping turns round the jackstay and boom, to keep the heel down. When the boom is rigged in, it hangs down before the topsail, when the sails are furled it is passed round the topsoil and the heel of the boom, to keep the boom snugly down in place. There is a strop and toggle fitted to the eye-bolt in the heel of the boom, and another strop fitted to the jackstay, which goes over the toggle to keep the heel of the boom in place when the sails are set.

      Splice one eye in one end, serve it and place it over the gaff-end, reeve the other end through a block, at the eyes of the fore-rigging, from forward aft, and set the end up in the fore chains.

            Note. – Its use is now abolished in the service.

      Splice an eye in one end, serve it and place it over the gaff end, reeve the other end through a clump-block stropped to the upper eye-bolt in the bowsprit-cap, from out in, splice a thimble in the end, and set it up to an eye-bolt at the knight-heads.

      Are rove through holes in the jaws of the gaff, and secured round the bowsprit, in a similar way to the jaw-ropes of a boom or gaff round a mast.

      Is rove through holes in the bees of the bowsprit, and knotted on top; an iron martingale or dolphin-striker has no jaws, it is shackled under the bowsprit.

      To reeve the heel-rope. Reeve the end out through the block hooked to the bowsprit-cap, from out in, in through the sheave in the jib-boom end, take the end out and make it fast to the eye-bolt in the after-part of the bowsprit-cap with a half-hitch, and seize the end back on the opposite side to the block.

      Q. How do you reeve a flying jib-boom heel-rope?

      A. To reeve a heel-rope. Reeve the end out through a tail-block secured to the jib-boom iron, on the starboard-side, from out in, in through the sheave in the flying jib-boom end, from starboard to port, take the end out, and make it fast round the jib-boom iron, on the port side, with a half-hitch, and seize the end back.

      In small vessels the flying jib-boom heel-rope is single, the end being secured at the end of the boom, by being rove through a hole made for this purpose, and knotted.

      This seizing is used for many purposes, such as inside and outside clenches, strops of blocks, turning in lower or topmast rigging and stays, seizing the eyes of rigging, &c. All small rope to be used for seizings should be well stretched for the purpose.

      Splice an eye in one end of the seizings, take it round both parts of the shrouds, and pass seven turns; working towards the standing part of the shroud, reeve the end back between the turns of the seizing already passed (which are called the lower turns), and up through the eye of the standing part of the seizing, and it will be in the right position to commence passing the six upper turns, or riding turns, which will exactly come between the parts of the lower turns; care should be taken to heave each lower turn of the seizing well taut by means of a Spanish windlass, and the upper turns well taut by hand. After passing the sixth and last riding turn, pass the end down between the two last turns of the lower turns and heave it hand taut. Then take a round turn round all

parts of the seizings, heave it well taut with a Spanish windlass, and secure with a clove-hitch, one part of the clove-hitch being each side of the round turn, expend the end in round turns round the end of the shroud, and secure the end with a yarn. Any number of lower turns can be taken, the riding turns must always be one less in number; 7 or 9 are the numbers of lower turns generally taken in turning a dead-eye in, or seizing the eyes of rigging.

      Q. How do you pass a quarter or flat seizing, and at what distance from the throat-seizing.

      A. The width of the throat-seizing, or about 4 ins. from it. It is about half an inch less in size than a throat-seizing. It is passed and finished off in a similar way to the throat-seizing, each turn being hove well taut, but has no riding turns.

      The reason of having an end part left after the throat and quarter seizings are finished off with a clove-hitch is in case of having to turn the lower rigging in at any future time, so the same seizing would do again.

      Q. In turning a dead-eye, in wire rigging, what seizings you use?

      A. A racking and end seizing, the racking seizing forming, as it were, a throat and quarter seizing.

      The standing part of the seizing is made fast to the standing part of the shroud with an eye-splice. Thirteen racking turns are then passed from the eye towards the end, leaving sufficient space between each racking turn for a roundabout tern to lie. After the thirteen racking turns are passed, the roundabout turns are passed from the end towards the eye, each roundabout turn being passed between the racking turns; when the last roundabout turn is passed, the end is passed up between both parts of the shroud, that is between the standing part and end, really for passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the end along the seizing and passing it down between the seventh and sixth turns along the seizing, again towards the eye, up between the two parts of the shroud as before, and again drawn between the seventh and sixth turns, then round the other way, over the thirteenth turn, repeating that also twice.

      This also applies to wire stays.

This is merely a flat seizing.

      Is used for many purposes, such as securing the collars in clothing a bowsprit, and strops in rigging a lower or topsail-yard. In fact, all collars and block -strops, fitted with lashing-eyes, such as bobstay and bowsprit shroud-collars, jeer-blocks, truss-strops, topsail sheet-blocks, clew garnet-blocks, quarter-blocks for topsail yards, &c., when not fitted with tails.

      Note. – Clew garnet-blocks are fitted at Portsmouth Yard with a pendant spliced in one end, and an eye in the other; the length of pendant is once and a third the round of yard, the pendant is passed from forward aft, under the jackstay, round the yard, and seized to the jackstay, then a small strop is placed over the block, and brought up abaft the yard, and seized to jackstay, for steadying the block.

      A rose-lashing can be passed either with one end or two.

      To pass a rose-lashing on one end, splice the other end into the eye of the strop or collar you are going to lash, then pass either from right to left, or left to right, passing it over the eye on one side and under on the other, until sufficient number of turns are passed to bear the strain equal to the collar or strop being lashed, which is generally about seven turns; then the end is passed between the crossing turns twice, and dipped up through as near the centre of the seizing as possible, and is finished off by crowning and walling the end close to the crossing turns.

      The lashing is middled in the centre of one of the eyes; the eyes are then passed, one under, and one over the eyes; for instance, the end that goes over the right-hand eye goes under the left-hand eye, until sufficient number of turns arc passed; the ends are then dipped, in opposite ways, through the crossing, each end twice each way; both ends are finished off, as before, being crowned first, and walled after.

      Is used when the rigging is turned in with the end up; it is simply a round seizing, but instead of being finished off with a round turn round all parts, and a clove-hitch, after the riding terns are passed, the end is merely dipped down between the lower and upper turns, and. the end is expended round the standing part of the shroud, and secured with a yarn.

      To whip the end of a rope (twine is generally used for this purpose) lay the end of the whipping in the lay of the rope, in the same direction as the end of the rope, pass a few turns of the whipping over its own end to keep it in place, then lay the other end of the whipping pointing in an opposite direction to the first, and on the top of the turns already passed, and pass the remainder of the turns on the bight round the rope, and the both ends of the whipping, hauling the end through when sufficient number of turns have been passed, to keep it taut in place, and cut it off.

      The turns of the whipping are always passed up towards the end of the rope.

      Is used for putting a mark on braces, &c., bracing up mark on fore-brace. It is formed by middling the twine round the part of the rope to be marked, and half-knotting it at every half turn, so each half knot will be on opposite sides; when sufficient number of terns are passed, finish it off with w reef knot.

      Is used for the ends of hawsers, as it is not so liable to come undone. It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, bet finished off by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping, and forming a reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out, when you commence to pass the turns on the bight over the last end.

      Is put on with a needle and twine. The needle is entered where the whipping is to commence, and the twine is drawn through the sennit, leaving about an inch of end, then pass a number of roundabout turns round the sennit, and over the end of the twine, so as to keep it in place; when turns enough are passed, stick the needle through the sennit again, and pass two cross-turns from end to end of the whipping, passing

the twine through the sennit with a needle at each turn – securing it with two half-hitches at the upper end of the whipping.

      Is commenced in a similar way to the other, but these points being made of round rope, the twine is drawn through the lay of the point by a needle, leaving about an inch end, over which the roundabout turns are passed. After passing the last turn of the whipping, stick the needle through the lay of the rope, and pass a cross turn from end to end of the whippings through each lay of the rope, thus. forming three cross turns, and finish off with two half-hitches above the last turn; each point has two such whippings, the second being about 3 ins. from the first.

      Is made from a tall fibrous plant, largely cultivated in Russia and Italy; the latter producing the finest and best hemp.

      Are made from hemp laid up right-handed, each yarn or thread is supposed to bear the weight of one hundred pounds.

      Consist of a number of yarns laid up together, the number depending on the size rope the strands form; those intended for a right-handed rope are laid up left-handed, and for a left-handed rope, they are laid up right-handed.

      Consists of lengths of condemned rigging, cut into five-fathom lengths, or pads of outside yarns.

Is condemned running rigging, supplied for lashings or other purposes, where good rope is not required, and for making wads, &c.

      Is old rope unlaid, and the yarns picked into hemp for caulking the seams in a ship's deck or side, and for many other purposes, cleaning brass-work, &c.

Is a number of yarns, twisted up right-handed, varying in number, from three to fifteen yarns.

All rope is distinguished according to how it is manufactured.

Ropes made of hemp are as follows:o –

Hawser-laid rope.
Cablet or cable-laid rope.
Bolt rope.
Rumbowline, twice laid, or re-manufactured rope.
Coir rope.
Hide rope.
Wire rope.

      The size of a rope is denoted by its circumference and length of coil, according to the use it is intended for.

      There are several descriptions of hawser-laid rope.

      Hawser-laid rope for standing rigging is termed shroud-hawser rope. It is a four-stranded and right-handed, made in lengths of 106 fathoms.

      The largest size made is 14? ins., used for forestays of first-class ships.

      The smallest size made is 2 ins., used for royal backstays of small ships.

      N.B. – All four-stranded ropes, have a centre strand, in addition, called the heart, so as to insure the four strands, when laid up, laying smoothly without a hollow.

      Is hawser-laid three-stranded left-handed rope, generally termed reverse-laid rope. The yarns and strands being laid up right-handed, and the rope left-handed, renders it soft and more easy to handle; for all it is not so durable, as it is more apt to admit the wet and cause it to rot.

      The large size, which is used for gun-breechings, is most difficult to splice; as the strands are unlaid, each strand has to be marled down separately to keep it together; the yarns and strands being laid up the same way, they are apt to open out as soon as a strand is unlaid.

      It is made from the best Italian yarns.

      Hawser-laid right-handed three-stranded rumbowline twice-laid or re-manufactured rope, is hawser-laid, three stranded right-handed.

      It is made from outside yarns. It is a coarse, soft, pliable rope, and very useful for many purposes, such as stage lashings, &c.; it also makes good nippers.

      There are no regular sizes for making this description of rope.

      Is three-stranded right-handed rope, made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut tree.

      It is one-third lighter than hemp rope, but not nearly so durable, as it soon rots after being wet, if not well dried before it is stowed away; as it floats so light, it is very useful as warps, and quite equal in strength to hemp rope.

      Is nine-stranded left-handed, made in a similar way to cablelaid or tablet rope. It is used for wheel-ropes, as it is much stronger than hemp; when wet it swells and shrinks; therefore, should, if possible, be kept dry, and, in all cases well greased, which duty is always assigned to the quartermasters.

      Three-stranded rope is used for all common purposes, such as reeving running rigging, purchases, &c. It is made from half an inch to 10 ins. in circumference, in coils of 113 fathoms.

      Is a three-stranded right-handed rope, made from the best Italian hemp, from three-quarters of an inch in circumference, to 7-1/2 ins., in coils of 122 fathoms in length.

      Is nine-stranded left-handed rope. It is made by first laying up with the sun, or right-handed, the nine strands into three separate ropes, three strands in each, and then laying the three ropes thus made up into one rope, left-handed, or against the sun; when completed, it resembles three small ropes laid up together. It is made from 2 ins. to 26 ins. in circumference.

      All above 2-1/2 in. in coils of 101 fathoms in length; 2 ins. and 2-1/2 ins. are made in lengths of 102 fathoms.

      Is right-handed, three, five, and seven stranded. All lower rigging and lower stays in steamships are wire rope.

      It has the great advantage over hemp in not stretching so much, or becoming impoverished by being constantly exposed to the heat of the fennel, &c.

      The table given ^* will show the comparative strength it bears to hemp and chain.

      Three-stranded, is one-fifth stronger than four-stranded rope.

      Lanyards for lower rigging, cat-falls, topsail-ties, halyards, lifts and braces, gun gear, and bolt-ropes, and all ropes of importance, are invariably made from the best Italian hemp.

      It should ever be remembered by the young seaman that all right-handed ropes should be coiled down with the sun, and left-handed ropes against the sun; attempting to do it the opposite way will bring your rope full of kinks, and make a very unsightly coil.

      Is used for splicing the roping of sails together, or a larger to a smaller rope, such as a foot-rope of a topsail to the leech rope, clew ropes of jib to the leech and foot ropes; the leech rope of a boom mainsail, spanker or trysail, to the head or foot-ropes, &c.

      Put a whipping on the leech rope, leaving end enough to tuck the strands twice; then put another whipping on the foot rope to a certain distance, according to the number of times yon intend to tuck the strands, which must greatly depend on the relative disproportion of the ropes, and the degree of tapering you intend to give them; unlay the strands of both ropes to their respective whippings, then heave the turns out of the small rope, on the other side of the whipping to the distance you intend tucking the strands of the large rope; then heave two or three turns out of the large rope on the other side of the whipping, crutch the two ropes together, and put a stop at the crutch to keep them in place; tuck the

first strand of the foot rope through the corresponding strand of the leech rope left-handed; reduce it by cutting off a few yarns, and pass it again back-handed round the same strand of the leech rope, and so proceed, working with the same strand of the foot rope round and round the same strand of the leech rope, reducing the strand gradually at each tuck until it is tapered down to nothing; take care in tapering the strand, always to cut the inside yarns; follow the same process with the other two strands of the foot rope, then tuck the strands of the leech rope into the corresponding strands of the foot rope, twice left-handed; cut the whippings off, taper the ends down, worm, parcel, and serve them over.

      If it is not to be served over, the ends are whipped together with two yarns out of one of the strands.

      It is sometimes necessary to enlarge a sail with one or more cloths; to do this, the roping must be lengthened; the best way of doing which is by introducing an additional strand, instead of putting in a piece of rope, which could only be done with two long splices, and thereby causing a much larger portion of the sail to be ripped than in the present instance.

      There are several methods given of performing this operation, but as they come to the same thing in the end, there is very little difference in them, only in the mere wording. Some recommend the rope to be cut in the centre first, where you propose introducing the additional strand, while others prefer cutting the strands at the extremities first: however, it is a mere matter of taste which you do.

      For example, it is required to give a sail one cloth more spread, it will therefore be necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope.

      To do this, rip the rope off four cloths: that is, two cloths each side of the place you intend to lengthen the rope. The width of a cloth is 24 ins,, which will allow a drift of 8 ft. for inserting the new strand.

      If a 3-in. rope, it will take 2 ft. for splicing, allowing 6 ins. to each strand; cut the strands at the distance of 2 ft. 6 ins. from each other, as in Plate 1.

      Cut one of the strands at A, and unlay it to C; then cut one of the strands remaining at C, and unlay it to B, laying the strand A up again as far as B; then cut the only remaining strand at B, which will be the centre, when your rope will be

in two parts; by following this plan, the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut; the rope will appear as represented in Plate 2.

      Marry the long end A to the end B, then lay up the long strand C in the lays of the strand A, and marry it to the other strand B, which represents Plate 3.

      Take a strand about 9 ft, or 10 ft, in length, of the same size rope, and marry one end to the short strand A, as shown in Plate 3; then fill up the space left from A to C, by laying in the new strand, and marry the other end to the short strand C; you will then have four splices or knots, and it will appear as in Plate 4.

      Then finish off, if a foot rope, as with an ordinary long splice, from which it will only differ in appearance by having to knot and tuck eight ends instead of six. Stretch the splice, put a west country whipping on the ends, and cut them off within 1 in. of the rope.

      In laying the new strand in, care must be taken to exactly follow the lay correctly, or it will not come in the right position to knot the ends A and C.

      The strands of a head rope are merely crossed, and both strands whipped together underneath by a couple of yarns out of one of the strands, not knotted and tucked, as in a long splice; in sewing the sail to the head rope, the rope is cross-stitched over the ends where tacked.

      This is one of the neatest operations that can be performed by a sailmaker; but if not laid up right the first time, it becomes very troublesome, and generally ends in a failure.

      A rope of a fore and aft sail can be shortened on the same plan, as low as 6 ins., where too much slack rope has been put on, and there is not enough rope to make a long splice.

      Q. How do you work a cringle in the leech of a sail?

      A. Unlay a single strand from the size rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, having one end longer than the other nearly a third, keeping the roping of the sail towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the strand together, counting three or five lays, according to the size of the thimble, taking care you always have an odd number of lays; commence with the short end of the strands towards you, then reeve the long strand from you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it through the cringle, and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole, and the

other end outside the left-hand one; the ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet-holes, and passed over the leech rope; and under their own part, one hitch being towards you, and the other from you; then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fiddled out, and the thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strands are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, and again under two, right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place at each tack, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns, and cut off:

      Commence as before, but after laying up the strand together, instead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes, and tucked back under two strands of the cringles, and again laid up as far as the crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands, and crossing them under the crown of the cringle, and cut close off. Cringles in the clews of boom-mainsails, or spankers, also the reef-cringles of fore and aft sails, are made this way, as they are considered mach stronger than cringles made on the other method, and do not weaken the leech rope by being tucked under the strands of it. Cringles, when worked in the clew of topsails, are made in the same way.

      Another plan of finishing a cringle on the crown is, instead of laying the strands up to make a four stranded cringle, it is made like the first, as far as the hitch. After forming the hitch, as in the first plan, instead of tucking the strand under the two nearest strands of the leech rope, it is backed and tucked left-handed under the nearest strand to it in the cringle, then right-handed under the strands towards the crown, both ends being served the same way, the cringle is fidded out, the thimble put in place, the ends whipped and cut off.

      N. B. – Thimbles are always entered in the cringles on the canvas side of the leech rope; if entered on the rope side they are liable to take the edge of the canvas, when being forced in place, and carry the stitches away.

      In working a cringle in a piece of rope, such as the roping of an awning, the only difference is, there are. no eyelet-holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands of the rope it is to be worked in; instead of being rove through an eyelet-

hole, it is worked and finished off exactly like the first, taking care, before entering the second end in the rope to form the cringle that at least two clear strands are left; but if a bowline-cringle, more play is allowed, as it has no thimble; but there are generally small metal thimbles fitted in the eyelet-holes of the sail.

      Is made from the finest hemp. There are two descriptions of twine used in sailmaking – roping, and seaming twine; the former for sewing the sail to the roping, and the latter for sewing seams.

      Is made from flax or hemp, in widths of 18 ins. or 24 ins., and in lengths of about 40 yards, made up in rolls called bolts. The stoutest or coarsest used in the Navy is called No. 1 canvas, and the finest and thinnest No. 8 canvas.

      Are fitted with two reef bands composed of a single part of canvas, one-third the width of the canvas in breadth, each placed at one-sixth the depth of the sail from the head. A belly band, also single part of canvas, half the width of the canvas in breadth, is placed half way between the lower reef and foot; and a foot band, extending from clew to clew, also a single part of canvas half the width of the canvas in breadth.

      The leeches are lined from clew to earring with whole breadth, and the buntline patches, four in number, are placed at equal distances apart along the foot, extending from foot to middle or belly band.

      Holes are worked two in a cloth in the head and reefs, and also for sticking the cringles in the leeches, at the foot in each centre of the buntline patches, and at the clews for the seizings.

      Marline holes are worked along the foot, and the foot and clew ropes wormed, &c., similar to topsails.

      The largest ropes are the clew ropes, which are spliced with the foot rope, about a foot or 18 ins, outside the outer buntline patches, and with the leech ropes a short distance from the clew, the foot and leech ropes being

of one size. The ends of the head rope are spliced into the earrings of the leech ropes. A metal thimble is placed in each buntline, similar to topsails, and iron thimbles in the cringles in the leeches,

Skeleton Sails, Course.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

except the bowline cringles, which are three in number in main courses, and two in fore courses. Courses and topsails are seized at each clew with 1 in. or? in. bolt rope, according to the size of the sail.

      Are tabled all round the edges, and have four reef bands, of half breadth (24 in. canvas), doubled, the lower close reef being generally at half the depth of the sail, and the others at nearly equal distances apart, between that and the head. A middle or belly band, of half breadth, single, half way between the lower reef and the foot, and a foot band also, of half breadth, single, extending from the top lining, on each side, to the clew. The width of the top lining is usually about one-fifth the length of the foot, and the depth from foot to middle band, with a mast lining of about two cloths, extending from the upper part of the top lining to the third reef.

      The leeches are lined from clew to earring, the lining being half-cloth wide at the head, and one-and-a-half cloths wide at the foot.

      The reef-tackle patches in large sails are of whole breadth, and in small sails, two-thirds wide at the outer part and one-third wide at the inner part; they are from two to three yards long, and placed diagonally to the opposite clew. The centre of the buntline cloths, which are of whole breadth, is placed at one-third the length of the foot from the clew, and the inner edge of the upper part of the buntline cloths brought to the outer edge of the top lining at the middle band.

Topsail.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      Holes are worked two and one in a cloth alternately, in the head and two upper reefs, and two in a cloth in the other two reefs; holes are also worked in the leech of the sail, for sticking the reef and bowline cringles in, also in the centre of the lower part of the buntlines, and at the clews, for the seizings. Marline holes are worked along the foot and a short distance up the leeches, for the purpose of lacing the foot of the sail with white line to the foot rope, which

is first wormed, tarred, parcelled with canvas, and served with spunyarn.

      Topsails have head, foot, and leech ropes; the ends of the head rope are spliced into the earring of the leech ropes, and the foot rope carried round the clews of the sail and spliced with the leech ropes, from 3 ft. to 6 ft. from the clew, according to the size of the sail. Thimbles, made of mixed metal, are placed in the buntline holes, and iron thimbles in the clews and in the reef and reef-tackle cringles.

      Topsails are fitted with four, three, or two bowline cringles, according to the depth of the sail.

      Two holes are worked in each cloth in the head, each corner of the sail is lined, and two or three bowline cringles, according to the depth of the sail, are worked in the leech ropes.

Topgallant Sail.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      The ropes are generally of three different sizes, the head rope extending from earring to earring, the leech ropes, from the head earring, to between the second and third bowline cringles, when fitted with three, and between the two bowline cringles, when fitted with two, and the foot rope through the foot and up the leeches, splicing with each leech rope. The upper bowline is placed at half the depth of the sail, and the others at equal distances between it and the clew. The clews are served with spunyarn and marled with small line, one foot each way.

      Two holes are worked in each cloth in the head, and corner pieces fitted, same as topgallantsails. The ropes are of two sizes only – viz., head rope, from earring to earring, and a

Royal.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

body rope on the foot and leeches. No thimbles are used in either these sails, or topgallantsails.

      These sails are lined with a clew piece of whole breadth, from the clew to about four or five feet above the upper reef cringle; a peak piece, also of whole breadth, from the peak to about four or five feet down the leech, according to the size of the sails, a mast lining one foot wide, from throat to tack; also a piece about one foot wide, under the clew piece, extending from about 1 ft. 6 in. above the upper reef to the clew; the corners, and clew as peak are likewise strengthened by small patches, called clinker pieces.

      Head holes are worked, two per cloth, in sails made of canvas 24 ins. wide, and two and one alternately in sails made of canvas 18 ins. in width, and two holes at each corner, and two at each reef, in both leech and luff, for sticking the cringles; also holes in the luff of the sail, about three-quarters of a yard apart, for seizing it to the mast hoops.

      The reefs are usually three in number, the upper one being placed about midway between the throat and tack, the others at equal distances between the upper one and the tack. Small sails are only fitted, with two reefs. Reef points, made of stoat white line, re crowfooted in the middle, a hole is then made through every seam, and one end of the point passed through, and the crowfoot securely sewn to the sail.

      The largest rope on these sails is the clew rope, which extends from the upper part of the clew piece, where it is spliced with the leech rope, round the clew, and about 3 ft. into the foot, then spliced with the foot rope, which, in

Boom Mainsail, or Spanker.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

its turn, is spliced with the mist or luff rope, about 2 ft. from the tack in the foot of the sail, the mast or luff rope is then carried round the tack, up the luff, and about 2 ft. into the head; it is then spliced with the head rope; the head rope terminates about 2 ft. from the peak, where the peak rope is spliced on, which is spliced with the leech rope about 4 ft. or 5 ft. below the head.

      Cringles, with iron thimbles, are stuck at each corner, at each reef, both in leech, and luff, and likewise midway between the lower reef and tack.

      The edges are turned over and tabled or hemmed down, to make the sail strong enough to bear the strain of the holes and roping stiches; the width of the tabling varying

Jib.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

according to the size of the sail. Lining, head, clew, and tack pieces, as a, b, c (see sketch). Holes, 3 ft. apart, are worked (grommets) in the stay, for the lacing.

      The largest size rope is sewn on, commencing at the top of the clew piece, and continued through the foot to about 3 ft. or 4 ft. up the stay, where it is spliced into the stay rope, which is sewn on up the stay, continued round the head, and spliced with the leech rope at the lower part of the peak piece, the leech rope being in its turn spliced with the clew rope.

      Large sails have eyes formed with the rope, and seized with line at each corner, the clew rope being served and marled 2 ft. each side of the clew.

      In small sails, two holes are worked at the clew and a cringle stuck in.

      Are lined as follows: – A clew piece about two yarns long, and peak and tack pieces about one yard long, a foot band of one-third breadth, and two bands also of one-third breadth,

Staysail.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

sewn across the sail at equal distances between the head and clew. Holes for the stay lacing or hanks are worked three-quarters of a yard apart in the stay of the sail, and they are roped similar to jibs.

      Staysails, topgallant, and royal are similar in every respect to jibs.

      Are fitted similar to other gaff sails, with the addition of having reef bands of one-quarter breadth and strengthening bands of one-third breadth, the former to take the reef hanks, and the latter at equal distances between the upper reef and the throat of the sail, with the exception of having cringles

stuck in the mast or luff rope about 3 ins. apart, for lacing, instead of the grommets worked in the sail to seize it to the

Storm Trysail.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

mast-hoops, and are fitted with two reefs only, each about one-sixth the depth of the mast. In small sails, one reef about one-fifth the depth of the mast.

      These sails are lined at each corner similar to topgallantsails, and have a reef band of one-quarter breadth at one-eighth the depth of the sail, from the head.

      Two holes are worked in each cloth, in both head and reef,

and are robed as follows: – The largest or body rope, down one leech through the foot, and up the other leech, commencing and finishing with an earring; and the head rope, the ends of which are spliced into the earring of the body rope. A cringle is stuck and an iron thimble inserted, in each leech, at the extremity of the reef band.

Topgallant Studdingsails.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      Are similar to the lower and topmast studdingsails, with the exception of not being fitted with a reef.

      Note. – The lower studdingsail is on a smaller scale than the other sails.

      MAIN COURSE. – 1 Head. 2 Earring Cringles. 3 Bending Cringles. 4 Reef Cringles. 5 First Reef Band. 6 Second Reef Band. 7 Outer Leech Line Toggles. 8 Bowline Cringles. 9 Middle or Belly Band. 10 Buntline Linings. 11 Foot Band. 12 Clews. 13 Reef Tackle Cringles.

      TOPSAIL. – 1 Head. 2 Earring Cringles. 3 Reef Cringles. 4 Reef Tackle Cringles. 5 First Reef Band. 6 Second Reef Band. 7 Third Reef Band. 8 Fourth Reef Band. 9 Reef Tackle Patch. 10 Bowline Cringles. 11 Mast Lining. 12 Top Lining. 13 Bunt line Patch. 14 Foot. 15 Clews.

      TOPGALLANTSAIL. – 1 Head. 2Earring Cringles. 3 Bowline Cringles. 4 Foot. 5 Clews.

      ROYAL. – 1 Head. 2 Earring Cringles. 3 Leech. 4 Foot. 5 Clews.

      Q. Name the sails of a full-rigged ship?

      A. Main and fore courses are set on the main and fore yards; topsails, topgallantsails, and royals, on the yards they are named after. Spanker on the mizenmast. Trysails on the fore and mainmast. Fore topmast staysail jib and flying-jib on the bowsprit, jib, and flying jib-booms. Topgallantsails, royals, and studdingsails are called small sails, and are only used in fine weather. Main topmast and maintopgallant staysails are set on the main topmast and topgallant stays, fitted for the purpose. The storm sails are fore and main storm staysails, which set on stays fitted for the purpose. Fore and main storm-trysails, which are set on the fore and main trysail-masts, but on shorter gaffs than are used for the large trysails, and a mizen trysail, but in a similar way to the main and fore trysails. Boat sails, for the use of the boats. Wind sails, to give ventilation below. Smoke sails, to be used when a ship is lying at anchor, head to wind, to protect the galley funnel, and keep the blacks from flying about the deck.

      There are also a number of fancy sails – viz., a ringtail, which is set by halyards being rove at the spanker or boom-mainsail gaff end, the tack being hauled out to a boom, fitted on the spanker-boom end, similar to a studdingsail-boom on a yard. A watersail sets under the spanker-boom end. A spritsail, which sets under the bowsprit. Skysails are set over royals.

      Merchant ships frequently carry sails above these.

      Q. Name the running gear of a course, and how it is bent to the sail?

      Reef-tackles, bowlines, leechlines, and slablines

      Tacks, sheets, and clew-garnet.

      Buntlines and slab-buntlines, in the bunt a bunt-whip. Reef-tackle blocks of courses are fitted with clasp-hooks,

and are hooked to the reef-tackle cringles in the leech of the sail.

      The leech-lines and slablines are bent to the leech of the sail with a running-eye over the same toggle, which is seized to the upper bowline-cringle; when there are two leechlines and slablines the upper ones are bent to a toggle seized to the reef-tackle cringles. In brigs the leechline is rove through the leechline cringle, taken up abaft the sail, and hitched to the jackstay abreast of the leechline block. This is termed doubling the leechline, as it serves the double purpose of leech and slabline.

      The fore-bowline goes with a running-eye over a toggle, seized to the bowline bridle.

      The main is fitted with a light runner and tackle, and attached to the lower bowline-bridle with a slip-toggle.

      Are shackled to the clew of a sail,

      The buntlines are bent with running-eyes over toggles, which are fitted with double strops, two each aide of the foot of the sail; there are two legs to each buntline, each side of the sail.

      Bunt slabline is a single rope clenched to the foot of a course on the after part of the sail.

      A bunt-whip is hooked to a becket sewed to a double part of canvas in the bunt of the sail when furling.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a course?

      A. Let go and overhaul leechlines, slablines, reef-tackles, buntlines, slab-buntlines, and ease clown the clew garnets.

      Haul on the weather-tack and lee-sheet.

      Q. What gear do you haul on and let go in taking a course in?

      A. Haul on clew-garnets, leechlines, slablines, buntlines, slab-buntlines. Let go the bowlines, and ease away the tack and sheet.

      Q. Name the running gear of a topsail, and how it is bent?

      A. Topsail-tye and halyards.

      Reef-tackles (large ships carrying heavy topsails are fitted with first and second reef-tackles) bowlines.

Sheets, clewlines.

Buntlines.

      Bunt jigger.

      The halyards are hooked in the chains. The tye-blocks are secured to a band round the sling of the yard by a bolt.

      The reef-tackle pendant is rove through the thimble in the crown of the strop of the reef-tackle block, through the upper bowline-cringle, hitched, and the end seized. If the second reef-tackle is fitted, it is bent to the second reef-tackle cringle, which is between the second and third reef, with a half-hitch, and the end seized back.

      Bowlines go with a running-eye over a toggle to the lower bowline-bridle in a fore or mizen, and the middle bowline-bridle in a main topsail. The sheets, if chain, are either hooked to the clew with clip-hooks, or shackled.

      If rope, a thimble is seized in the strop of the topsail sheet-block, by which they are shackled to the clew.

      Clewlines are lashed abaft the clew.

      Buntlines are secured with a running-eye over a toggle.

      A bunt jigger is hooked to the bunt-becket, and is used in hauling the bunt up in furling sails.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a topsail?

      A. Let go clewlines, buntlines and reef-tackles, haul on topsail-sheets and halyards.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in taking a topsail in?

      A. Let go the topsail-sheets and halyards, and haul on the clewlines and buntlines.

      Q. Name the running gear of a topgallantsail and royal?

      A. Of a topgallantsail, halyards, clewlines, buntlines and bowlines.

      Halyards are bent with a studdingsail halyard-bend round the slings of the yard, or to a thimble in a strop; the former is the best plan, as it carries the yard much closer up to the sheave-hole of the mast.

      Bowlines are bent with a running eye over a toggle.

      Sheets and clewlines. The sheets are bent with a sennit-eye over a spring-toggle, and the clewlines with a sheet-bend through the clew of the sail.

      Buntlines are only fitted to topgallantsails in large ships, and is a single buntline with two legs, which are clenched to the foot of the sail, or fitted with a running-eye over a toggle.

      Halyards. Sheets and clewlines, which are bent in the same way as topgallant sheets, clewlines, and halyards.

      Q. What gear do you let go, and haul on in setting a topgallantsail and royal?

      A. Let go clewlines for a royal, and bowlines, buntlines, and clewlines for a topgallantsail. Haul on sheets and halyards.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in taking a topgallantsail and royal in?

      A. Let go bowlines, sheets, and halyards, and haul on the clewlines and buntlines.

      Let go sheet and halyards, and haul on clewlines.

      Q. Name the running gear of a jib, flying jib, or staysail.

      A. Halyards, downhaul, jib-pendants, and whips or sheets. Lacing for jibs, hanks for fore topmast-staysails, beckets for storm-staysails, tack-lashings, clew ropes, reeving-lines, footlines.

      Q. How, and to what part of the sail is the gear bent?

      A. The halyards of jibs and staysails are hooked to the head cringle; they are fitted with clip-hooks; when double, the clip-hooks are seized in a thimble in the strop next the crown of the block.

      The downhaul is rove through the head-cringle and secured with a sheet-bend.

      Jib-pendants, or sheets, are secured to the cringle in the clew of the sail with a toggle and strop. This also applies to staysails.

      Luff-tackles are used as sheets for storm-staysails.

      The lacings of a jib, flying jib, main-topmast or topgallant

staysails, are rove through the eyelet-hole in the luff of the sail, and round the stay. Sometimes the lacing is stopped to the eyelet-holes, and not rove through them, but it is not so secure.

      The eyelet-holes in the luff are seized to hanks which are on the fore topmast stay.

      Fore and main, are fitted with beckets in the eyelet-holes in the luff of the sail, with an eye in one end, and a knot on the other end of the beckets, they are passed round the stay, and secured by putting the knot through the eye.

      Q. Why are jibs and flying jibs fitted with lacings, and a fore topmast staysail with hanks?

      A. Jib or flying jib stays can be unrove, brought in on the forecastle, and then rove through the lacing, but as a fore topmast staysail is set on one of the fore topmast stays, which cannot be let go in bending or unbending the sail, the sail must be taken out to it, therefore all staysails set on standing stays must go with hanks or beckets.

      Are spliced in the tack-cringles of a jib or staysail; they are secured round the bowsprit for a fore topmast staysail, jib boom, and flying jib-boom, for a jib or flying jib with three round turns, each turn being passed through the cringle in the tack of the sail, and secured to its own part; in some cases, for the sake of smartness, a strop and toggle is used fur the purpose.

      Is merely a rope's-end bent to the clew of a jib or staysail when the sheets are not bent.

      Is a rope's-end bent to the becket in the end of the jib or flying jibstays, to reeve them through the sheave holes in the jib and flying jib-boom ends in shifting jibs or flying jibs.

      A foot-line is a rope's-end bent to an eyelet-hole in the foot of the jib, and led through a block at the bowsprit-cap, to haul it taut along the jib-room for furling at sea.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a jib or staysail?

      A. Let go the downhaul, and haul on the halyards and jib-whips or sheets.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in taking a jib or staysail in?

      A. Ease off the sheets, let go the halyards, haul on the downhaul.

      Is a rope's-end rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, and bent to an eyelet-hole in the foot of the jib, or to the clew of the jib.

      It is useful for hauling the foot of the jib taut along the jib-boom when stowing the sail at sea blowing fresh, as it brings it and steadies it in place on the boom while the men are gathering it up.

      It is also useful for flattening it in fine weather.

      When rove through a block at the head of the jib, and bent to the clew, it is very useful in lightening the clew over the stays in shifting the sheets over.

      Q. Name, the running gear of a boom-mainsail, spanker, and trysail?

      A. Throat and peak halyards, vangs, and downhaul. Tack tricing-line, tack-tackle, lacing, boom-sheets, and topping-lifts.

      Q. How, and to what part is the gear bent?

      A. Peak and throat-halyards are hooked to the gaff. Vangs and downhauls spliced or hooked to the outer part of the gaff.

      The tail in the lower block is passed through the thimble in the tack of the sail, and hitched to its own part.

Is hooked to the tack of the sail.

Is a piece of soft greasy rope, spliced in an eyelet-hole in the luff of the sail above the reefs.

Are rove through a block on the outer part of the boom.

Hooked to an iron band fitted with two eyes on the boom.

      N.B. – This applies also to a spanker

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a boom-mainsail?

      A. Let go vangs and downhauls, tack tricing-line, and ease the boom-sheets.

      Haul on the topping lifts, peak and throat-halyards.

      Q. What gear do you haul on and let go in taking a boom mainsail in?

      A. Haul on the weather sheet, vangs and downhaul, and lower the peak and throat-halyards, when the boom is amidship, lower the topping-lifts, crutch the boom.

      N.B. – This applies to a spanker also.

      Q. What is the use of a tack tricing-line?

      A. To trice the tack of the sail up when required.

      Q. What is the use of a tack-tackle?

      A. To haul the tack of the sail close down when on a wind.

      Q. Name the running gear of a spanker?

      A. In addition to the gear attached to a boom-mainsail, as already explained, a spanker is fitted with an outhaul and brails, the gaff being kept always swayed up in place; the peak or throat-halyards are not used in setting or taking the sail in.

      A foot-outhaul is hooked to a thimble in the clew of the spanker.

      A head-outhaul to a thimble in the peak.

The bights are seized to the after-leech.

      Q. What is the difference in securing the after-clew of a boom-mainsail and a spanker?

      A. The clew of a boom-mainsail is secured to the boom-end by an earring passed round the outer end of the boom, or shackled.

      The clew of the spanker is fitted with an outhaul.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in taking a spanker in?

      A. Haul on the broils, always manning the lee-brails best, so as to spill the sail; let go the outhaul, haul in the sheet; when the boom is over the crutch, lower the topping lift.

      Q. What gear do you haul on and let go in setting a spanker?

      A. Let go the brails, and haul on the outhaul, ease off the

weather vangs, downhauls, and sheets, and top on the topping lifts.

      Let go the outhaul, haul in the sheet; when the boom is over the crutch, lower the topping-lifts.

      When the head of a spanker is fitted to run on an iron rod under the gaff, it is fitted with an outhaul at the head as well as the foot, also an inhaul.

      Q. Name the running gear of a trysail?

      A. The same as a spanker, with the exception of no boom.

      The gaffs are usually kept swayed up in place, but are sometimes lowered and swayed up each time the sail is taken in or set, similar to a boom-mainsail.

      Brails are fitted to a trysail in the same manner as they are to a spanker, the sheet which answers the purpose of an out-haul is generally a luff-tackle hooked to the clew of the sail.

      A piece of rope, called a lazy-sheet, is spliced in the clew thimble.

      Q. What is the difference in securing the tack of a trysail to that of a spanker?

      A. A piece of rope, called a tack-lashing, is spliced in the tack-thimble by which the tack is secured; it does not trice up like a spanker, therefore is not fitted with a tricing-line or tack-tackle.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a fore or main trysail?

      A. Let go the brails and vangs, and haul on the sheet.

      Q. What gear do you haul on and let go in taking a trysail in?

      A. Ease away the sheets, haul on the brails (the lee-brails best), so as to spill the sail, steady taut the vangs.

      Q. What is the use of a lazy-sheet?

      A. To secure the clew of the sail while you hook or unhook the double sheet.

      Q. Name the running gear of a gaff-topsail?

      A. Halyards, sheet, clewline, tack, and lacing.

      Q. How, and to what part of the sail, is the gear bent?

      A. The halyards are bent to the yard with a studding sail halyard-bend, about one-third from the inner yard-arm.

      The sheet is fitted in various ways – viz., sometimes with clip-hook, or a common hook and mousing, or a screw hook; in either case it is hooked to the clew of the sail; it is also, in some cases, fitted with a toggle and strop.

      Is rove through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheetbend when single; when double, a tail is fitted to the lower

block, and bent to the sail in a similar way. The upper clew-block is seized to the slings of the yard, and acts as a downhaul as well as a clewline.

      Q. How is the yard secured to the mast?

      A. By a parrel.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in setting a gafftopsail?

      A. Hoist on the halyards, pass the parrel and lacing, let go the clewline, haul down the tack, and haul out the sheet.

      Q. What gear do you haul on and let go in taking a gafftopsail in?

      A. Ease off the sheet, haul up the clewline, cast off the lacing and parrel, lower the halyards, and haul down on the tack, which acts as a downhaul.

      Q. Name the running gear of a lower, topmast, and topgallant studdingsail.

      A. Lower studdingsail, inner and outer halyards, tack, long and short sheets, tripping-line.

      Are either hooked, or a tail is fitted to the block, which is bowline knotted to the inner corner of the head of the sail.

      Are bent to the yard with a studdingsail halyard-bend half way or one-third out on the yard.

Is bent to the outer lower corner or clew of the sail, with a sheet-bend or running-eye over a cross-toggle.

N.B. – This applies to all studdingsails.

      Are formed out of one piece of rope, rove through the thimble in the inner lower corner or clew of the sail, and seized together.

Is bent with a sheet-bend to the tack, or outer lower corner of the sail.

Halyards, downhaul, tack, and sheets.

Are bent with a studdingsail halyard-bend to the yard one third out.

Goes with a running-eye over the outer yard-arm for a topmast, and the inner yard-arm for a topgallant studdingsail,

      Is bent with a sheet-bend to the outer clew of the sail.

      There are two to a topmast studdingsail, a long and a short one, formed out of one piece of rope by being rove through the clew of the sail and seized. A topgallant studdingsail has only one sheet.

      Q, What gear do you haul on in setting a lower, topmast, or topgallant studdingsail?

      A. Halyards, tacks, and sheets.

      Q. What gear do you let go and haul on in taking lower, topmast, or topgallant studdingsails in?

      A. Haul on the tripping-line and sheet for a lower, and the downhauls and sheets for a topmast or topgallant studdingsail, ease away the tacks, and halyards, and short sheets.

      The lower and topsail yards are generally marked with a white band of paint round them, at a certain distance outside the quarter, called laying-out marks. After the pipe goes, loose and furl sails, and the order is given "away aloft," the hands get on the yards as quickly as possible, keeping between the laying-out marks and bunt, until the order, "trice up, lay out" is given.

      Sail loosers on the lower and topsail yards, at the order "lay out," should clear away the gaskets and second reef-earrings as quickly as possible, and see the other reef-earrings clear, that is if the topsails and courses have no reefs in, but the bunt should never be let fall before the quarter and

yard-arm gaskets are clear. Very often, at the order "let fall" the men in the bunt, without ascertaining if the outer gaskets are clear, let fall the bunt, and should one of the quarter or yard-arm gaskets be fast, the whole weight of the sail comes on it, and, in all probability, the lanyard of the gasket has to be cut; the captain of tops, &c., should always see the stops of the top-bowline gone, and the bunt jigger of the topsail unhooked, also the bunt-whip of the courses; this, at times, has been neglected, and the bunt-becket has been torn out of the sail. Topgallant and royal yard loosers should be very careful to commence loosing at the yard-arms first, and lay in as they cast the gaskets off more particularly at sea, and never let the bunt fall first, as it might be attended with serious consequences; for instance, it is blowing fresh, the bunt of the sail is let fall before the yard-arms are loosened, the sail fills with wind like a bladder; rises above the yard, the hand at the yard-arm, not expecting it, is knocked backward, and most likely falls on deck.

      In loosing jibs, care should be taken by the hand taking the cover of the jib or flying-jib off to cut the stop of the jib-halyards, and see the jib-pendants clear of the eyebolts in the bowsprit cap, and foot-line let go.

      N.B. – In stowing jibs, before the covers are put on, the jib-halyards are always stopped to the lower part of the jib-stay, and the clew of the jib and cross-in jib-pendants are always stowed between the eyebolts in the foremost part of the bowsprit-cap.

      Now that it has become a general practice throughout the service to stow courses and topsails away in the sail-room, furled, ready for bending, the gaskets are sewed in the head-rope of the sail fur this purpose, and the bending strop is seized in place, ready for hooking the sail tackle to.

Is simply a pair of bail slings, only unlike slings, one bight is not rove through the other, but merely seized together with spunyarn when in use. The strop or slings are passed round the bunt of the sail after it is made up for bending, one bight is passed down abaft the sail, up before all, and seized to both parts of the other bights, sufficient length being left on the upper bight for hooking the sail tackle to. This plan

of fitting a bending strop is not, however, very safe, as everything depends on the seizing.

      The bending strop is sometimes seized to the head rope of the sail, as well as to act as a preventer in the event of the other seizing slipping or carrying away; but the best and securest plan of fitting it, is to have two eyelet-holes worked in the head of the sail, just below the head rope, the sail being strengthened in the wake of the eyelet-hole by a patch of canvas. Cut the bending strop to length, reeve it from aft forward, through one hole, then from forward aft, through the other hole, splice both ends together, thus the splice will be on the after part of the sail; when covered with canvas, a strop fitted this way can scarcely be seen, and is always in place; it is generally drawn through the eyelet-holes when the sail is set close to the foremost bight, and hangs down abaft all; in furling, it is tucked in the sail out of sight.

      When used for bending, it is rendered through the eyelet-holes, the night on the after part of the sail being passed round the bunt of the sail, up before all, and seized to both parts of the bight on the foremost part of the sail; for this purpose the strops or slings are marked and seized each side of the eyelet-hole, to prevent it slipping, leaving sufficient length on the bight on the fore part of the sail for hooking the sail tackle to. A strop fitted this way, for all the seizing might slip or carry away, would never allow the sail to fall on deck.

      Stretch the sail taut along the roping next the deck, hitch the earring to any convenient place, to keep the head taut. Gather all the slack sail over towards the foot, then lay the second reef-band on the head, haul the second reef-earring taut out. Bring the leech taut in as far as the inner leechline cringles, leaving the toggles out over the head ready for bending the leechline, and if a fore course, leave the bowline cringle out to bend the bowline.

      Bring the clews in over the head of the sail, about 4 ft. from the midship roband on either side, then lay the buntline toggles abort a foot over the head, between the clews, ready for bending the buntlines to.

      Extend the hands along the head of the sail, as if they were on the yard, and gather up, as in furling, until they come to the skin, then all step across the sail again, kneel down, and roll it taut up, making a snug furl, pass the gaskets, footing

them well taut, pass the bending strop, and seize it in place ready for hooking the stay-tackle to. Stretch the head-earring along the head rope, as near the bunt as possible, and stop them, ready to be got hold of as soon at the sail is above the fore or main yard.

      The sail is now ready for bending or stowing away.

      Q. How do, you furl a topsail on deck for bending or shifting?

      A. Stretch the sail taut along the roping or after part of the sail next the deck.

      Gather all the slack sail over towards the foot, then lay the second reef band along the head, stopping the second reef-cringle to the head-earring cringle. Get hold of the head-earrings, and tauten the head of the sail. Bowline-knot the third reef-earring in the second reef-cringle, and the fourth reef-earring in the third reef-cringle, take the two clews in about 6 ft. over the head, and about 4 ft. on either side of the midship roband; by having the clews well out, it will be easier to bend the sheets and clewlines. Bring the leech in along the head as far as the reef-tackle cringles, leaving out the reef-tackle pendants and bowline-toggles, at least, a foot over the head rope, then bring the buntline-toggle is between the clews, leaving them also a foot over the head-rope, ready for bending the buntlines, extend the hands along the head rope, as if on the yard, and gather all the slack sail into the skin, leaving the yard-arms as light as possible, and, at the same time, making a shapely bunt, step across the sail and face about, kneel down, and roll the sail taut up in the skin, pass the gaskets and foot them taut, then bring the clews up under the fore part of the sail and stop them to the head rope abaft all. Pass the bending strop, and seize it in place, ready for hooking the sail tackle to.

      Stretch the head-earrings along the head-rope, and stop them as near the bunt as possible, so they can be got hold of readily, directly the sail is above the top.

      The sail is now ready for bending or stowing away.

      Q. How do you make a jib up for bending or shifting?

      A. Stretch the foot along the roping or port side next the deck, making the sail up in folds on the foot, leaving the luff rope out, and all parts of the lacing clear. Take the bight of the tack-lashing round all parts of the sail, and hitch it to its own part, or secure it with a seizing.

      Q. How do you make a course up for stowing away (not furled)?

      A. Stretch the sail taut along the roping next the deck. Gather the slack sail over towards the foot. Bring the second reef-band, belly-band, and foot in, and taut along the head rope, laying the leech rope of each inside the other. Leave the robands and gaskets out. Bring the clews in towards the bunt, as far as possible, so as to leave out at the leech or ends of the sail, when made up, the reef-tackle cringles, bowlines, and leech-line toggles, then carry the clew out again, and leave them out also. Carry the buntline-toggles over the head rope, and leave them out.

      Q. How do you make a topsail up for stowing in the bins (not furled)?

      A. Stretch the sail taut along the roping or after part next the deck. Gather the slack sail over towards the foot, then lay the third reef-band, belly-band, and foot rope, along the head rope, laying the leech rope of each inside the other. See all the robands, gaskets, reef-tackle cringles, bowline, and buntline-toggles, and clews out, the third reef-earring bowline knotted in the second reef-cringle, and the fourth reef-earring in the third reef-cringle. Bring the clews in towards the bunt, so as still to leave the bowline-toggles out at the leech, take them out to the leech again, thus having all parts of the sail inside the leech ropes. The robands, gaskets, and buntline-toggles out at the head, the clews, reef-tackle cringles, and bowline-toggles at the sides.

      Extend the hands along the sail facing the head, kneel down, and roll it taut up, securing it with the gaskets or spunyarn stops if required.

      Stretch the head-earring along the head, and secure them as near the bunt as possible, so as the men in the tops can readily get hold of them when bending. Seize the bending strop in place, and the sail is ready for stowing away.

      Q. How are topgallantsails and royals made up for stowing away?

      A. Stretch the head of the sail taut along the roping or after part next the deck. Gather all the slack sail over towards the foot, then carry the sail towards the head in a similar way to a topsail or course, making three folds of it. Bring the clews towards the bunt till the leech rope of each fold lays inside the leech rope of the other; then take the clews out over the leech rope again, roll the sail taut up, leaving the robands out, and the bight of the head-earring hitched road the sail. Secure the sail with ropeyarn stops. It is then ready for stowing away.

      Q. How do you make gaff-topsails up for stowing away?

      A. A gaff-topsail is made up on the head, the tack is brought in towards the head, so as to square the foot. The foot is then laid along the head rope, and the sail rolled taut up and stopped with spunyarn stop, ready for stowing away.

      Q. How do you make a jib or staysail up for stowing away in the sail bins?

      A. Stretch the after-leech along the roping or port side next the deck. Bring the head and tack towards the sheet, until it nearly forms a square, then roll up taut on the after-leech and secure it with ropeyarn stops; the sail is then ready to stow away.

      Q. How do you make a boom-mainsail, spanker, or trysail up, for stowing in the sail-room?

      A. On the after-leech; double the head and foot in towards the middle of the sail, roll it up snugly, and secure it with ropeyarn stops, it is then ready for stowing away.

      Q. How are studdingsails made up?

      A. Rolled taut upon the outer leech, secured with ropeyarn stops, and the tally is left out.

      Q. How are boat's sails made up?

      A. Rolled taut up on the after-leech, secured with spunyarn strops, and the tallies left out. Avoid making boat-sails up on the head, as it stretches the sail in the heads, and spoils its set.

      Q. How are awnings made up?

      A. Stretched taut along the deck, both parts brought together, and rolled taut up on the ridge rope, which is fitted with stops, for securing it.

      Q. How do you bend a course?

      A. Supposing the course to have been stowed away, furled ready far bending, with the bending strop seized in place.

      The sail is brought on deck and laid athwartships under its respective yard, roping of the head next the deck.

      The stay-tackle is then hooked to the bending strop, and having ascertained the sail is clear of turns (if necessary it should be swayed up and down for this purpose, and lowered again), bend the gear, hook the reef-Burton blocks, either to the first or second reef-cringle, as directed, taking care it is

over the tacks and sheets, bend the leechlines and buntlines; the head rope of the course is marked in the wake of the leechline blocks, to these marks the leechlines are stopped either with a roband or a yarn, care being taken that the leechlines are clear of each other, the inner one being stopped inside the outer one. The tack and sheet-shackle is now fitted with a ring on the shoulder, to which the clew-garnets are shackled, instead of being lashed to the clew, so in shifting courses, one shackle answers the purpose of all three.

      Shackle the tackle and sheets, and lash or shackle the clew-garnets in place.

      Hang the clews to the strop of the stay-tackle block.

      When all is ready, man all the gear and stay-tackle, over hauling the tacks and sheets well. At the order "sway away," take down the slack of clew-garnets, and walk all the gear up together; see if the leechlines have been stopped with care, so as to come up taut to each leechline-block; the head of the sail will haul taut along the yard, and a few hands will be able to bring the sail to the jackstay; when the head-earrings are secured, the robands passed, slablines bent, and the bunt-whip hooked to the bunt becket, and hauled well taut, cut the seizing of the bending strop and leechlines if stopped with yarns. Hook the reef-tackle blocks to the reef-tackle cringles, toss the sail well up, and pass the lanyards of the gaskets round the jackstay, round the clew-garnets, taut up to the quarter blocks, and steady taut the tacks and sheets. Pass the clew-hangers.

      Q. How do you bend a course made up not furled?

      A. The sail is laid athwartships, under the yard to which it belongs, cast adrift on deck, and the gear bent. The leechlines and buntlines are stopped to the head of the sail. The reef-tackles are hooked to the first reef-cringles. Tacks and sheets are shackled, and the clew-garnets are lashed to the clews; when ready, man the reef-tackles, leechlines, and buntlines, and clew-garnets, and walk all the gear up together.

      As soon as the head-earrings are fast and the robands secured, shift the reef-tackles to their own cringles and bend the slablines. The sail is then ready for either setting or furling.

      Q. How do you bend a topsail?

      A. Supposing the topsails to be all ready made up, furled for bending, the bending strop seized in place, they are laid

athwartships, abreast their respective yards, the roping of the head next the deck, and the sails clear of turns.

      Note: – A double whip, kept rove at the topmast-head, will be found most useful in unbending and shifting sails, shifting topsail yards, &c. This tackle is named the centre burton.

      The sail-tackle is overhauled down, and hooked to the after part of the bending strop. When the sail-tackle is worked on the main deck, a bowline, bent to the strop of the sail-tackle block, will keep the sail in going up clear of the top rim. Man the sail-tackles, and walk it up until the clews of the sail are above the top.

      Bend the reef-tackles, and second reef-tackles, if fitted, buntlines and topsail-clewlines, so as to have command of the sail in case the lanyards of the gaskets should get loose, and the sail blow adrift.

      Note. – Second reef-tackles are only bent to heavy topsails.

      As soon as the topsail is up, the captain of the top, who is in the bunt of the topsail yards, sees it is clear of turns, and secures the midship roband as quick as possible, and hooks the bunt jigger, the reef-tackles being bent, the yard-arm men get hold of the head-earrings, and lay out with them in hand, the hands on deck clapping on the reef-tackles at the same time, which lights the sail out to the yard-arms, assisted by the men on the yard; the outer turns of the head-earrings are passed as quickly as possible, the hands on each side of the yard facing towards the bunt, and lighting the head of the sail taut along the yard-arms; the midship roband having been previously well secured, prevents the head of the sail being hauled more out to one yard-arm than the other; as soon as the two outer turns of the head-earrings are passed, the four inner turns are passed, and the robands secured round the jackstay. The sheets, if chain, are either hooked with clip-hooks or shackled; if rope, the topsail sheet block is fitted with a thimble and shackled, and the clewline-block is lashed abaft the clew. Bowlines are bent. The seizing of the bending-strop is cut as soon as the bunt jigger is hooked, and hauled well taut. When all the gear is bent, the hands on the yards cast off the lanyards of the gaskets, which are secured to the sail, toss the said well up, taking care to have a good skin, and pass the lanyards of the gaskets round the jackstays, always remembering to reeve the first and second reef-earrings, and tuck them into the sail. It should ever be borne in mind the longer the clews are, the easier it will be to bend the sheets and clewlines. In shifting courses and topsails for exercise, it

is a common practice to send the sails down by the buntlines, but now it is the custom to keep the bending-strop in place, and shift sails furled, they are sent down equally as quick by the sail tackle; it is, however, a wise precaution, in shifting heavy topsails, to use the topsail buntlines as well as the sail-tackle, as if anything happens to the sail-tackles or bending strop, the buntlines will save the sail from falling on deck.

      Q. How is a topsail bent, made up, not furled?

      A. The sail-tackle is hooked to the bending-strop, in the same way as it is when being bent or shifted furled. If the sail is secured with ropeyarn stops, they are cut as the sail is swayed about the top; if secured with gaskets, the lanyards are cast off by the men in the top. When the clews are above the top, and it is ascertained the topsail is clear of turns, and on the right slue, the head of the sail is lowered level with the yard, and the midship robands secured. The gear is bent as before explained. When the men at the yardarms have the outer turns of the head-earring passed, and the hands on the yard have hold of the head of the sail ready for passing the robands, and the fore part of the top is clear of men, cut the seizing of the bending-strop, and let the sail fall,

      Q. How are topgallantsails and royals bent?

      A. They are always bent on deck, and brought to the yard with head-earrings, and robands, the same as a topsail.

How do you bend a jib?

      A. To bend a jib. Reeve the stay through all parts of the lacing, from head to tack, and then bend the reeving-line to the becket of the stay; reeve the downhaul up through the lacing, from tack to head, and bend it with a sheet-bend to the head of the sail; hook the halyards to the head-cringle, pass the bight of them round under the foot, and all parts of the sail, and stop the bight to its own part, bend the clew-rope, pull up on the halyards, when high enough haul out on the reeving-line and downhaul, easing the halyards as required. Pass the tack-lashing, bend the jib-pendants, cast off the clew rope, put on jib-purchase, and set the stay up; cast off the bight of the halyards from round the jib, and hoist the sail.

      Q. How are staysails bent?

      A. A fore topmast staysail is passed out on the bowsprit, the holes in the luff of the sail are usually seized to hanks on the port or lower fore topmast stay. The halyards are hooked to the head of the sail, and the downhaul is rove up from tack to head, through the three upper hanks, and bent

to the head of the sail, the tack-lashing is secured in place, and the sheets or pendants are toggled to the clew, the sail is then ready for setting or stowing.

      When a fore topmast staysail is brought to the stay with a lacing, it is passed through every alternate hole only, in the tuff of the sail, and round the stay, the lacing being seized to the holes it does not pass through.

      Main topmast and topgallant staysails are generally bent in the foretop, they are brought to their respective stays with lacings. The topgallant staysail stay is generally marked, and the head of the sail is seized to it when the stay and halyards are in one. Halyards, downhaul, and sheets are bent in the usual way.

      The storm staysails are laid abreast their respective stays, they are brought to the stays with beckets. Luff-tackles are used for sheets. Halyards, downhaul, and tack-lashings are bent and secured in the usual way.

      Q. How are storm trysails bent?

      9. They are brought to smaller gaffs than those used for the regular trysails, beckets being used instead of a lacing; all the other gear is bent in the usual way.

      All gaffsails are brought to the gaff in a similar way.

      The gaff is lowered down low enough for the hands to work conveniently, and steadied in place by the vangs, over to the side of the deck the sail is lying. A score is made under the gaff abaft the jaws, with an eyebolt on either side of it. The head-earring thimble or hook of the sail is placed between the two eyebolts, and a bolt passed through the three, with a head at one end, and secured with a forelock at the other. It is, however, sometimes, shackled. The head of the sail is brought to the starboard side of the gaff or the roping next the gaff, and laced in a similar way to a studdingsail, or in roundabout turns round the gaff, and through two holes in the head of the sail from the throat towards the peak. The peak-earring is secured with two outer turns, two thumb-cleats being nailed to the gaff end to keep them out in place, or a hole for the purpose bored through, and with four up and down or inner turns. If a new sail, the lacing should be passed slack, and the head on no account stretched in hauling the peak-earring out. In bending a spanker or trysail dip the head of the sail through the brails; as soon as the head is secured, sway the gaff up, seizing the

hoops on above the reefs as the sail rises, splice the lacing in below the hoops, selecting a soft, greasy piece of rope for this purpose, reeving the end through the cringles before the mast, from side to side, as the sail rises.

      If a boom-mainsail or spanker, bend the tack-tricing line, and if required hook the tack-tackles. If a trysail, secure the tack-lashing.

      The after-clew of a boom-mainsail is secured to the boom end by an earring, or shackled before the sail is hoisted.

      The outhaul-block is hooked to the after-clew of a spanker, and steadied out in place. A piece of rope, called a lazy sheet, is spliced in the clew of a trysail, to secure it until the sheet is hooked.

      Q. How do you bend a gaff-topsail?

      A. The gaff-topsail is bent to the gaff-topsail yard on deck, in a similar way that a studdingsail is to a studdingsail yard.

      Q. How are studdingsails bent?

      A. There are holes in the yard-arms for hauling the earring out to; the head of the sail is secured to the yard with hitching turns, sometimes a grommet is fitted in one of the head-earring cringles of the sail, which goes over the yardarm, two thumb-cleats being nailed on the yard to keep the grommet from slipping in. The other earring is hauled out in the usual way. Tyers are also substituted instead of a lacing.

      Q. How are boatsails bent?

      A. In a similar way to all fore and aft sails, being roped on the port side; they are brought-to on the starboard side of the gaff or yards; never stretch the head of a new boat-sail in bending it, as it will ruin its set for ever after.

      The men on the lower yards stop the leechlines and buntlines to the head of the sail, unhook the bent-whip, cast off the clew-hangers, the lanyards of the gaskets from the jackstays, and secure them round the sail, also the lanyards of the bunt-gaskets round the bunt, cast off the robands and inner turns of the head-earrings, keeping fast the outer turns until the order is given to "ease in;" the earrings are then let go, and the sail is lowered by the buntlines and reef-tackles, the gear unbent and bent to the other course, as already explained in bending courses, the stay-tackle is then hooked to the bending strop, when all is again ready for swaying the sail up.

      In shifting topsails, as soon as the men are at their respective stations aloft, the lanyards of the bunt-gaskets are cast off from abaft the mast, and well secured round the bunt of the sail; great care should be taken in doing this well, so as to keep the bent together as the sail goes down; nothing looks worse than a sail blown adrift and falling on the deck in an unshapely lump; equal care should be taken in casting the lanyards of the other gaskets off the jack-stay and securing them taut round the sail. When the sail is landed on deck it ought to be ready to stow away; this will not be the case if care is not taken in securing all the lanyards of the gaskets taut round the sail. The clew-hangers, robands, and inner turns of the head-earrings are cast off, all the gear is unbent with the exception of the buntlines, the bights of which are hitched round each side of the bending strop. In shifting topsails for exercise, they are generally sent down by the buntlines. The outer turns of the head-earrings are let go at the order to "ease in". In sending the other topsail up, proceed as explained in bending topsails.

      Stopper the jib-stays, off jib-purchase, and bend the reeving line. If the jib is set, haul the sail down, bend the clew-rope, stop the bight of the halyards round the sail, cast the tack-lashing off, unbend the jib-pendant, sway on the halyards, ease away the downhaul, and clap on the clew-rope and haul the sail in on the forecastle, easing away the reeving line at the same time, unbend the gear and unreeve the jib-stay. The sail can either he made up for stowing away or for re-bending.

How do you reef a course?

      A. For this purpose the sails are either taken in altogether, or the clew-garnets and buntlines well raised, the reef-tackles hauled close out.

      When the sail is properly laid for reefing, the hands go aloft and lay out.

      The earring is passed outside the rigging, on the yard-arm, which answers the same purpose as a reef-cleat on a topsail-yard, and through the reef-cringle, from aft forward, taking as

many turns as possible, passing it through the reef-cringle each time; as the whole strain of the tack comes on the reef-earring, sufficient number of turns should be taken to be equal to the same amount of strain as the leech-rope. The second reef is taken in in a similar way.

      The second reef is seldom, if ever, taken in in the mainsail.

      As soon as the earrings are secured, toggle the reef-beckets, overhaul the reef-tackles, and lay in, when the sail can be again set.

      Should the sail be hauled close up, see the leechlines and slablines are overhauled sufficiently to admit of the earring being hauled out.

      Q. How do you reef a topsail?

      A. If on a wind, the weather braces are rounded-in, so as to spill the sail; if running free the yards are braced forward for the same purpose; the topsails are then lowered on the cap, and the reef-tackle hauled out, so as to leave a slack leech for the men at the yard-arms to haul the earrings out.

      In taking the third or fourth reef in, the clews of the topsails are raised, and the buntlines steadied well taut.

      The yards are always laid with the braces well taut, and the reef-tackles hauled out, before the order is given to the men to lay out. The second reef-tackle, in large ships, is generally used in taking the first and second reefs in.

      Q. In reefing topsails, after the word "lay out" is given, what ought the men on the yard to do?

      A. Get hold of the spilling-lines and gather up, and get hold of the reef-line as quickly as possible, the men at the yard-arms see their earring clear, and ready for passing, when the hands have hold of the reef line, all face to leeward, and light the sail out to windward, so as to assist the man at the weather yard-arm in hauling the weather-earring out. When out to windward, all face to windward, and light the sail over to leeward, when the lee-earring is out, toggle away; when the earrings are out, the men at the yard-arms will make a signal by holding up (the man at the starboard yard-arm his right hand, and the man at the port yard-arm his left hand) as a signal, so as to prevent any singing out, which should always be avoided, more especially aloft. At night, when the signal cannot be seen, the man at the weather yard-arm, when the weather-earring is out, will give the order "haul out to leeward," and when out to leeward, the man at the lee yardarm will give the order "toggle away."

No other man should speak on the yard.

      Q. How many turns would you take with the first reef-earring?

      A. One outer, and two inner.

      Q. How many turns would you take with the second reef-earring?

      A. One outer, and three inner.

      Q. How many turns would you take with the third reef-earring?

      A. Two outer, and three inner.

      Q. How many turns would you take with the fourth reef-earring?

      A. As many outer turns as I could get.

      Q. Explain what you mean by an outer and inner turn?

      A. Outside the lift, a reef-cleat is nailed on to the yardarm, fitted with notches or stops, over which notches the reef-earrings are passed, so as to keep the head of the sail taut out. The first reef-earring over the first notch, and the second over the second, and so on; these are the outer turns. The inner turns are passed round the yard-arm, in a similar way to a head-earring, each turn passing through the reef-cringle, the ends of the earrings are secured round the topsail-lift with a clove-hitch.

      Q. What gear ought to be hauled well taut before the hands lay out on the topsails and lower yards?

      A. Braces, lifts, trusses, and rolling -tackles; as the courses are never reefed but in bad weather, there is certain to be considerable motion on; therefore, for the safety of the hands going aloft, the yard should be well secured and kept as steady as possible.

      Q. How are reef-pendants to a boom-mainsail fitted?

      A. They have a stopper-knot fitted at one end, and the other end is pointed with a becket in it.

      Q. How is the reef-tackle hooked to it?

      A. A bowline-knot is formed in the end of the pendant to which the reef-tackle is hooked.

      Q. How is a reef-pendant rove in the sail?

      A. The pendant is rove through an eyebolt at the boom-end through the thimble of the reef-cringle to which it belongs, down through a cheek fitted with a sheave on the other side of the boom, the end brought in and stopped round the boom ready for use.

      The eyebolts and cheeks for the reef-pendants on the boom-end are fitted on alternate sides so that the pendants work clear of each other.

      Q. How do you reef a boom-mainsail?

      A. Haul in the sheet, lower the peak and throat halyards to slack the after-leech and luff of the sail sufficiently to haul the reef-pendant down, and to secure the luff of the sail. Hook the reef-tackle, which is always kept hooked under the boom, to a bowline-knot in the end of the first reef-pendant, and bouse it well down, and belay the reef-tackles to a cleat under the boom, secure the thimble in the tack to the thimble in the first reef-cringle, by passing a tyer through each thimble three or four times, tie the reef-points over the foot, shift the tack-tricing line block up to the first reef-cringle, ease the sheet and hoist the sail again.

      This also applies to a cutter's mainsail, or a spanker, when the after-clew is shackled to the boom end; when the second reef is to be taken in, the first reef-pendant is stoppered and hitched round the boom, and the reef-tackle unhooked, ready to hook to the second reel pendant.

      The first and second reef-pendants are always kept rove.

      Q. How do you reef a spanker or trysail?

      A. Brail the sail up, easing away the outhaul for a spanker, and the sheet for a trysail, lower the throat and peak halyards to the required distance, so as to insure slack-sail enough to enable you to take the reef in; steady taut the vangs, and if a spanker, the boom-sheets; if the first reef, secure the thimble in the clew, and the tack-thimble to the thimbles in the first reef-cringle in the after-leech and luff of the sail with a tyer; a regular earring is generally fitted to the after-leech, then tie the points over the foot. Shift the outhaul, if a spanker, to the thimble in the first reef-cringle in the after-leech, and the tack tricing-line to the first reef-thimble in the luff.

      If a trysail, hook the sheet to the first reef-cringle in the after-leech, hitch the tack-lashing to the first reef cringle, when complete, ease the vangs, and sway the gaff up in place, ease down the brails, and haul on the outhaul or sheet.

      The other reefs are taken in in a similar way.

      Q. How do you furl a course?

      A. When all the gear is hauled taut up, the sail is laid in the right position for furling, the leechlines bring the leeches taut along the head of the sail, and the clew-garnets carry the clews of the sail up to the bunt of the yard.

      At the order "lay out," the outer hands on the yard get hold of the leech as quickly as possible, and pass it in towards the bunt, taking care to form a skin in doing so.

      The hands on the quarter and bunt of the yard gather

the foot of the sail on top of the yard in the bunt, and then they work all the slack-sail in between the clews and the yard, towards the bunt on both sides, equalizing as much as possible the sail on each quarter of the yard; by doing this the sail will be light at the yard-arms, and a good bunt will be formed; as soon as the bunt-becket can be reached, hook the bunt-whip, and pull up on it, let go the buntlines, and foot the sail well down in the bunt skin.

      All hands on the yard look towards the bunt, and give one good skin up together, pass your gaskets and clew-hangers, and lay in, and down from aloft smartly.

      Q. How do you furl a topsail?

      A. As soon as the yards are lowered on the cap, the clews are hauled close up, and the buntlines carry the foot of the sail to a certain distance above the yard, for which purpose they are marked, both buntlines being kept square.

      It is a general practice in the Navy to haul the second reef-earring out in furling, this is done to give sufficient skin to stow the sail in (hence the order which is usually given, "the second reef earring in a furl" ).

      In furling sails it is the duty of the captain of tops to be in the bunt, as everything depends how the sail is stowed there, whether it will be a sightly furl or not. A bulky, mis-shaped bunt to a sail, denotes a slovenly set of topmen.

      As soon as the order "trice up, lay out second reef-earring and furl," is given, the men at the yard-arms should at once get hold of the second reef-earring and haul it out, bringing the second reef-cringle out square with the head-earring cringle, and the leech-rope of the second reef inside the leech-rope between the first reef-earring and head-earring; it is not supposed to be secured, only steadied taut and kept in place by hand, or by the man at the yard-arm putting his foot on it, the second reef-cringle is gathered in towards the bunt; when the second reef-earring is stowed inside the skin thus formed, care should always be taken that this is really done, for some hands, with a mistaken idea of smartness, neglect hauling the earring out at all, but commence to pass the leech in at once, the consequence is, all the sail is gathered into the bunt, the buntlines are let go, the foot of the sail comes down on the already over-filled bunt; the bunt jigger for a topsail, and the bunt-whip for a course is hauled on, and the men in the bunt of the yard endeavour to foot the sail in the skin without success, in all probability, during this time the officer carrying on is hurrying them, the consequence is,

the bunt-gaskets are passed, and the boom lowered on a badly furled sail, which, in nine cases out of ten, ends in extra drill; whereas, if the second reef-earring had really been hauled out, and the leech of the sail passed in from the second reef, it would equalize the sail and give ample room for properly stowing the bunt; therefore, it should be borne in mind by young beginners, that the cause of badly-furled topsails commences at the yard-arm, and is generally the cause of a badly-formed bunt.

      As soon as the second reef-earrings are out, the man next the yard-arm man should get hold of the leech of the sail under the second reef-earring, and hand it in towards the bunt, then commence to gather all the slack sail into the skin, formed by the second reef, the hands in towards the bunt gathering the foot and all the slack sail up in their hands, in between the clews and the yard towards the bunt on both sides, making it as light as possible at the yard-arms; when all the slack sail has been gathered in, and the bunt. jigger is hooked, pull up on the bunt jigger, and lower the buntlines, footing the sail well into the bunt as it comes down, and taking care there is an equal quantity of sail on each quarter. All hands look towards the bunt, and give one good final heave up together; as soon as the sail is fairly in the skin, pass the gaskets and clew-hangers, and lay in as quickly as possible; no hand should linger on the yard after his work is done.

      Q. How do you furl a topgallantsail or royal?

      A. At the order "lay out," get hold of the leeches and hand them taut in from the yard-arms, gather the foot of the sail on top of the yard, in the bunt, working all the slack sail in between the clews and the yards, shake the sail down into the skin, equalize the bunt, having as much sail on ono quarter as on the other, then skin the sail well up, and pass the gaskets.

      Q. How is a jib stowed at sea?

      A. The hands on the jib-boom get hold of the foot of the sail and lay it taut along the jib-boom to form a skin, keeping it under their breast, they then gather up all the slack sail into the skin thus formed, and pass the stops.

      A footline should be fitted to all jibs in large ships, to assist the men on the boom to get the foot of the sail taut along, and keep it in place: it is most useful in bad weather.

      Q. How is a jib furled in harbour?

      A. The second or third cloth from the after-leech is taken

for a skin, according to the size of the jib, for this purpose; the seam of the cloth, be it the second or third, whichever is to be your skin, is stopped to the jibstay above the lacing, and brought taut in along the jib-boom; if it is the third cloth, the first and second will hang down between the furlers and the jib-boom; all the slack sail is then picked up, and laid under the third cloth, the first or second on one side, and the fourth and fifth on the others, are then tucked under the slack sail, thus the third cloth forms a complete cover for the sail; the gaskets are then passed.

      Q. How do yon furl a boom-mainsail?

      A. After the boom is crutched, lower the gaff down, so as when the hands stand on the boom they will be able to reach over the gaff to pick the sail up, the boom acting as a footrope.

      Steady the gaff taut by the vangs, and a rope's-end round it as well.

      First the hands will get hold of the slack sail, about 4 ft. from the head, the same side of the gaff as they are standing, and lay it on top of the gaff under their breast, so as to keep it in place for a skin, then pass the after-leech taut in towards the jaws, leaving little or no sail at the peak. Gather up all the slack sail from the foot, then lean well over the gaff and get hold of the slack sail kept for the skin shake the sail well down in the skin thus formed, toss it well up together so as to have no wrinkles in the skin, and pass the gaskets.

      Q. How do you furl a spanker or trysail?

      A. Haul the lee-brails close up, or if laying head to wind, haul the starboard or port-brails up as convenient, steady through the slack of the other, form a skin with the after-cloth, gather all the slack sail in, pass the gaskets; when furled this way they are fitted with covers.

      Q. How do you furl a trysail with the gaff lowered down?

      A. When the gaff is lowered down, steady it well taut with the vangs, and, if necessary, by passing a rope's-end round it. Make a rope fast to the peak and jaws, to act as a foot-rope; where a gaff-topsail is fitted, the gaff-topsail sheet will answer this purpose.

      Take the clew up to the jaws, gathering the after-leech along the head of the sail, then gather all the slack sail up from the foot, forming a skin, with the sail near the head, when skinned well up, pass the gaskets, and cover the sail.

      When a spanker or trysail is fitted with covers, they are secured by one long gasket being passed with roundabout turns round the sail and gaff.

      Q. How do you furl a gaff-topsail?

      A. Bring the sheet and tack in square with the head, roll it up taut, so as to form a good skin. It is generally secured with centipede gaskets round the yard; in a cutter it is usually fitted with a cover, and stowed on the main boom.

      Q. How do you furl a studdingsail?

      A. Studdingsails are furled square on their heads, tack sheet and downhaul cringles being left out, the sail being secured with centipede gaskets.

A Yawl.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      Q. You have been taught to pull an oar, and you are now stationed in a boat. What is the first thing you would attend to on your boat being ordered to be manned alongside?

      A. Take my place on the thwart I am stationed on, and see I have the right oar corresponding to the number of my

thwart, put the fender next me out, and see my oar ready for tossing.

      Q. What precaution, is necessary in manning a boat at sea, or when a ship is rolling much?

      A. Not to toss the oars, or ship the mast until clear of the ship, for fear they should catch under the ports, or any other part of the ship's side, and go through the bottom of the boat.

      Q. What is to be done at the order "shove off"?

      A. In fenders, the off bowmen haul in, and coil the painter down if out, the bowmen nearest the ship or landing-place hear the boat off

      Q. What precaution would you take at the word "down oars?

      A. Ease the oar down by the hand nearest the gunwale.

      Q. What is to be done at the word "bow"?

      A. The men pulling on the foremost thwart to give one stroke after the word bow, if a double-banked boat, look at each other, lift the hand nearest the gunwale as a signal to toss together, toss their oars, and boat them, take up their boat-hooks and, stand firmly on the head-sheets, the man nearest the ship or shore to fend the boat off, the outer man to hook on, all fenders to be put out.

      Q. What is to be done at the order "way enough"?

      A. Give one stroke after the order, lift the hand nearest the gunwale, as a signal, toss the oars together, always waiting for the order to boat them; when it is necessary, the short boat-hook will be used by the man sitting on the after-thwart nearest the ship or landing place, who will boat his oar for that purpose.

      Q. When the boat you belong to is ordered to be lowered, what are the necessary things you should attend to?

      A. See the plug in, rudder shipped, oars and boat-hooks properly secured, the falls clear for running, and a proper turn taken for lowering, life-lines clear, and the lanyards of the gripes gone.

      Q. What is a boat's fall?

      A. A tackle by which a boat is hoisted up to the davits.

      Q. You say you would see the life-lines clear, and lanyards of gripes gone; explain what they are, and their use?

      A. Gripes are made of sword matting, made fast to the davit-heads, usually crossed outside the boat, and passed under her, and secured by lanyards in-board, to keep the boat steady when at sea, or when the ship is rolling; life-lines are also secured to the davit-heads and are used for steadying the boat

when being hoisted, also to keep her from sending fore and aft, which is done by crossing the life-lines; that is, the man in the stern taking the foremost, and the man in the bow taking the after life-line; when the boat is high enough to take a turn with the falls, the bight of the life-lines is rove through the slings, and over the davit-heads, then two or three round turns round all parts.

      Q. What is to be done when a boat is ordered to be hoisted up?

      A. The coxswain and one of the bowmen generally go into the boat, hook the slings in their proper places, haul taut the steadying lines, and make them fast, see that the oars and boat-hooks are properly secured, and before hooking on the boat's tackles, look over their heads to see they are clear of turns; the foremost tackle should always be hooked first when a ship is lying in tide way, or moving ahead at sea, the danger of the after tackle being hooked first, and the boat having no boat-rope in from forward is, she may swing broadside to the tide, and cause some accident; when the order is given to "haul taut and hoist away," the men in the boat should take hold of the life-lines, and light themselves up, taking their weight off the boat until high enough; the man tending the foremost tackle should stand before, and the man tending the after-tackles abaft the boat's-tackles. When the boat's-tackles are belayed, it is the coxswain's duty, or the man tending the after-tackle, to see the plug out, so as to prevent the boat holding water in the event of rain; life-lines, if not required, to be properly coiled down in the boat, rudder unshipped, rowlock plates shipped, fenders in, gripes properly passed and secured, and the falls clear for lowering; the bowmen, after assisting in those things, if at sea, will see a boat-rope passed forward ready for lowering.

      Q. What is a steadying line, and its use?

      A. Slings are hooked to the bottom of a boat, steadying lines are secured to the boat's gunwale, from a hook in the upper part of the slings, so as to prevent a boat capsizing when a strain is brought on the tackles; boat's tackles should always be fitted with a thimble (instead of a hook) to take the hook in the slings; hooks in boat-tackles are very dangerous when a ship is rolling much, as if not rounded up out of the way smartly they may catch some part of the boat, or even hook a man out of the boat, and cause some serious accident.

      There is, in the Navy, a uniform rig for all boats (see plate on preceding page).

      Large boats, such as launches, pinnaces, and barges, are generally rigged with gaff-sails, that is, as fore and aft schooners, or with standing lugs.

      The smaller boats, such as cutters, gigs, jolly-boats, &c are rigged with either standing or dipping lugs.

      Q. What is the difference between a standing and a dipping lug?

      A. The tack of a dipping lug hooks to the stem, and the tack of a standing lug to the mast, therefore every time a boat tacks or wears, the after yard-arm of a dipping lug has to be clipped round the mast, from aft forward.

      Q. What do you mean by dipping a lug?

      A. The meaning of dipping a lug is simply this. The sail is partially lowered down, so as to allow the after part of the sail to be gathered forward, and the after yard-arm to he canted down, to admit of its going before the mast, and aft on the other side, when, if the wind has taken the sail on the other tack, it is re-hoisted.

      To properly dip a lug is considered one of the smartest things in boat sailing: the men should be stationed for this purpose, the bowman to bear the fore part of the sail out, the two next to gather the sheet of the sail forward, and pass it round before the mast, the after hands to unhook and rehook the sheets. All the others should sit fast and keep still in the boat, only assisting to hand the foot of the sail along, shifting the sheet, and re-hoisting when ready.

      The sail should not be lowered until the fore part had be aback sufficiently long to bring the boat round, so as to have the wind on the other bow, unless the water is smooth, and the boat has enough way on to bring her round.

      Q. When would you unhook the sheets?

      A. As soon as the sail lifts.

      Q. How low would you lower a lug for dipping?

      A. There ought to be a dipping mark on the halyards, to prevent the necessity of lowering the yard more than is necessary for dipping the after yard-arm round the mast, and also to keep the sail high enough, so as to have sufficient of the sail aback before the mast to carry the boat round and insure as little slack sail as possible on top of the men sitting

on the foremost thwarts; if in a cutter, one of the men stationed on the after-thwart should keep the mizen-sheet in hand, so as to ease off, in case the boat comes-to in re-hoisting the sail.

      Q. Where would you belay the halyards of a lug-sail?

      A. Always to windward.

      Q. How do you dip a lug in wearing?

      A. Just before the wind is right aft lower your sail to the dipping mark, gather it forward, dip the after yard-arm round before the mast. Shift the hauling part of your halyards to windward, and as soon as the wind is on the other quarter re-hoist your sail; never, if possible, allow a boat to gybe in a fresh breeze, as it will be very difficult to lower the sail down, the halyards will be between the mast and the sail, and the sail will be binding hard against the mast.

      Q. What precautions would you take before making sail?

      A. Before stepping the mast, see the halyards are rove, and that nothing will be required aloft, and when once the mast is stepped, see the ends of the halyards are within reach, so there will be no necessity for any of the hands to stand on the thwarts; never allow a man to go up the mast, many fatal accidents have occurred in this way; if there is anything wrong at the mast-head, such as the halyards becoming unrove, unstep the mast and rectify it. Ship the rowlock plates, see the halyards hooked clear, also the sheet clear for hooking; never haul the sheet taut aft if on a wind before the halyards are well up.

      Q. If on a wind, and the halyards require a pull, what precaution would you take?

      A. Always ease the sheet off before getting it.

      Q. How would you make sail in a boat rigged with gaff sails?

      A. Always set the jib or stay-foresail before setting the gaff-foresail, taking care to steady the runners hand taut first. The jib and stay-foresail act as a forestay, and if the gaff-foresail is set before either of the head sails, the foremost head is dragged aft, and causes the after-leech of the gaff-foresail to hang slack; but should circumstances oblige you to set the gaff foresail first, ease off the gaff-foresail sheet, and slack the runners, so as to allow the mast to go forward in its proper position when you set the head sails.

      Q. How is a downhaul fitted to a lug sail?

      A. The halyards are generally cut sufficiently long to admit the end of the hauling part to be fitted with an eye, and hooked to the traveller before hoisting the sail.

      Q. How do you take a lug sail in?

      A. Check the sheet, haul down on the downhaul, and the luff of the sail at the same time, so as to spill the sail; never gather down on the after-leech, as it causes the fore part of the sail to fill, and binds the traveller to the mast, so as to prevent its running down freely.

      Q. What is to be observed in taking a reef in a boat-sail?

      A. Never roll the foot of a sail, as it holds more water, and tends to force the boat to leeward.

      Q. What ought the crew to do in the event of a boat being capsized or swamped?

      A. As a rule, everyone should remain by her, as she will assist those that cannot swim to keep afloat, and those that can swim will, with the help of the boat, be able also to render valuable assistance, and insure confidence to the former.

      Q. When ought you to reef in a boat?

      A. Directly she begins to wet, or show any inclination of being crank; never allow the boat's crew to stand up; when reefing, the men should be properly stationed before you begin, so each man might know what he has to do without confusion; the hands not engaged in reefing should be made to sit perfectly still; keep the boat under command, but the sails should be lifting, the halyards checked, and the sail lowered sufficiently for the men to handle without rising in the boat.

      Q. What precaution would yon take in belaying a sheet?

      A. A sheet should never be belayed, but always kept in hand; as the safety of the boat's crew might depend upon this, a careful, trustworthy hand should always be selected for this duty.

      Q. When laying on your oars under sail, what precaution would you take?

      A. Heave them out of their rowlocks, and let them rest abaft on the gunwale.

      Q. Where would you bend the halyards of a standing and dipping lug?

      A. The proper distance to sling a dipping lug is one-third from the foremost yard-arm, and a standing lug one-quarter, so as to insure your sail to set well.

A Cutter on a Wind.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      Q. If sailing in a stiff breeze, what precaution would you take in placing your crew?

      A. All hands should sit on the bottom boards, as little of them as possible ought to appear above the gunwale; keep the men out of the bows, and in a heavy sea always endeavour to keep a boat's head on to it. Never allow the crew to sit to windward, and should they be sitting to windward in a breeze, and you are about to pass a ship, make them resume their proper places on the thwarts before you are under her lee; there is always an eddy wind under the stern of a ship lying head to wind, and invariably a great indraught of water; frequently, boats passing close under the stern of large ships are suddenly taken aback, and were the crew in such a case sitting on the weather gunwale, or all hands over the weather side, it might be the means of capsizing the boat, and causing some fatal accident.

      In towing alongside a ship, get your tow-line from as far forward as possible from the ship you are towing alongside; if towing astern, the shorter your tow-line is the better. Never make a tow-line fast. but toggle it with a stretcher

through the aftermost of the foremost sling bolts, so as to be able to slip it in case of any emergency; use the lazy painter as a frapping to frap it into the stem.

      If towing astern of a ship, with many other boats, never allow them to make their painters fast to the stern of your boat, as it will strain her, and perhaps start the stern-post or stem; when about to be cast off, always have your oars in hand ready for use. The largest and heaviest boats should tow nearest the ship.

A Cutter before the Wind.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      A. Securely lash all her spars, oars, &c together. Make a span of any rope you have in the boat equal to the strain that will be brought on it; to the span, when properly bent to the opposite ends of the largest spar, bend the end of a cable, if you have one in the boat; if not, the end of the painter, or any long piece of rope, before launching the spars overboard; the longer scope you can give, the easier the boat will ride; this has been known to answer well.

      Q. If using oars in a light wind, what precaution would you take when the breeze freshens?

      A. In using oars under sail, in light winds, always boat

them directly the breeze freshens, or at least, the lee oars, to prevent the possibility of catching a crab, that is, the oars becoming entangled in the water, the blades going in the opposite direction to which you wish, the loom flying forward against the hands using the oars, and in five cases out of six capsizing them backwards off the thwarts in the bottom of the boat, causing confusion among the other hands, and is often the means of three or four others on the lee side catching crabs, which ends either in splitting and carrying away the lee gunwale, or in capsizing the boat.

      Q. If sailing on a wind, and caught in a squall with a lug-sail, what would you-do?

      A. Let go the fore sheet at once, and, put the helm down; and as the wind often shifts in a squall, it is a safe precaution to lower the foresail down until you see the extent of the squall, and whether the wind is likely to remain steady; if taken aback, the sail would so bind against the mast that there would be great difficulty in getting it down, it would most likely cause the boat to gather stern way, and if blowing fresh, would create such confusion among the crew, which might perhaps induce them to stand up in the boat, and in all probability capsize her. Many accidents have occurred this way, causing the loss of many valuable lives; also through not shortening sail in time. This also applies to a boat schooner-rigged.

      Q. If sailing with the wind abeam, and caught in a squall, what would you do?

      A. Keep the sheet flowing, and the halyards clear for running.

      Q. When about to sail, what ought you strictly to observe?

      A. Great care should always be taken in seeing a boat's sails well and properly set, so as to render her manageable; also sightly to other ships.

      A great deal is done in handling a boat, in having the sails properly trimmed, and the crew or any weight on the boat judiciously placed; all weight, as much as possible, should be kept out of the bows and stern, and placed amidships; you can easily tell by the helm if a boat is in trim or not.

      When in trim, she will carry her helm nearly amidships; by being obliged to give much weather or lee helm, the rudder is dragged across her stern, and the boat's way is retarded.

      Weather helm is often produced by allowing the bowman to sit right forward, and press the boat by the head, also by carrying a press of sail; attention to the jib or mizen sheets, in a boat where the sails are well set, will invariably relieve the helm.

      Q. If working to windward among shipping, or into an harbour, and in doubt as to whether you will weather any particular object, what ought you to do?

      A. It is always safer to tack, as invariably there will be some tide running, and if a lee tide, and you shake the boat up, she loses her way, becomes unmanageable, the consequence is, you foul the danger you have tried to avoid, and will cause, in all probability, some damage to your boat; should the masthead foul the bowsprit or spanker-boom of the ship you are trying to weather, she is nearly certain to capsize, and most likely drown some of your crew.

      Q. Being unable to fetch a ship, what assistance can she render you?

      A. If it is blowing hard, or in a strong tide way, keep as much as possible in her wake, so as to pick up a buoy or small boat when veered astern from the ship for your assistance, a deep-sea lead-line or small hawser is generally used for this purpose; as soon as you have picked it up and secured it to your boat, she is walked up alongside by all hands on board the ship clapping on the line veered astern.

      Q. How would you tow a spar?

      A. The smallest end first.

      Q. What preparation would yon make if in charge of a boat under sail, before going alongside a ship, and what guide have you for properly laying your boat alongside the gangway?

      A. Much depends upon the judgment of the coxswain in going alongside a ship; the general rule, however, is to get the main-yard end on, but this must greatly depend upon whether the ship is in a tide way or not, or whether the boat is light or heavily laden. In coming alongside, unship the bowsprit, see the boat has been properly baled out, fenders out, slings, if possible, should be hooked, and everything ready for the boat to be hoisted up if you know she is not to remain down, and always remember that a heavily laden boat carries her way much longer than a light boat.

      Q. How would you haul a boat up on a beach, or launch one?

      A. All boats ought to be fitted with a hole in the fore foot, about 1 in. in diameter, for the purpose of placing an iron

bolt or a strop to hook a tackle to, or bend a rope's-end, for the purpose of hauling her up.

      Before leaving the ship to haul a boat up on a beach to scrub her bottom, or for any other purpose, see a boat's anchor and a luff-tackle in the boat, place her thwarts or stretchers under her keel, bury her anchor in the beach well up, bend a rope's-end to the ring of it, and make a long strop, so as to allow sufficient drift to hook the tackle to a strop round the iron bolt in the hole in the fore foot of the boat, or to a strop rove through it; hook the single block of the luff to the strop secured to the ring of the anchor, and the double block to the strop in the fore foot of the boat, man the tackle, leaving sufficient number of hands each side of the boat to keep her in an upright position, and walk her up.

      To prevent the anchor coming home or rising, place a stretcher or an oar under the upper arm or flue, and station couple of hands to keep it down. This also applies to launching a boat which bas been left high and dry by the tide.

      Never attempt to haul a boat up, or launch one, by clapping a number of hands on her painter, as it only tends to bury her bow in the sand or mud, and you stand a chance of starting her stem.

      If not fitted with a hole in the fore foot, make a rope round her stern, well down to the keel, and hitch it round the bow, and hang it by a rope's-end over the boat to keep it from falling under the keel, to which hook your tackle or bend a rope's-end to it, and clap all hands on it, having a sufficient number of hands each side of the boat to keep her in an upright position.

      Q. What are the salutes to be paid to Officers of different ranks in passing them in boats?

      A. If under canvas, never cross the bow of a superior officer, and if near, always pass to leeward of him. The coxswain should always stand up and pull his hat off. Passing an Admiral, all the boat's crew should stand up and keep their hats off while passing.

      In rowing and passing an Admiral, toss the oars, and all hands stand up with their hats off while passing.

      In passing a Captain or a Commander, toss the oars, the coxswain standing up with his hat off.

      In passing any other Commissioned Officer, lay on your oars, the coxswain standing up with his hat off.

A Topsail Schooner Yacht.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      Never put the helm down suddenly. When about to tack always ease it down; putting the rudder right across the stern: deadens a boat's way; about three-quarters down will be found quite sufficient for any purpose.

      Never go away in a boat without your shoes, as it will give your ship a slovenly name, as also smoking in a boat, lounging on the gunwale, hailing a ship or boat in passing, or the shore. STRICT SILENCE should always be observed, for the credit of the ship you belong to.

      Never leave a boat without leave, and never sit on the gunwale.

      If a boat has stern way, put the helm the opposite way you wish her head to go, as it has the opposite effect to what it has in head way.

      If sent to another ship on duty in charge of the boat, deliver your message, and return to your boat immediately. If required to remain alongside in a tide way, make fast to the swinging boom, unless ordered to lay off on your oars.

      Always clearly understand a message yon are to convey also the answer given, before leaving the respective ships.

      If under sail, and meeting another boat on opposite tacks, the boat on the port tack gives way to the boat on the starboard tack; that is, she passes to leeward of her; boats going free, or running before the wind, give way to boats on a wind.

      If sent to convey stores or luggage keep the weights as much amidships as possible; above all things see the well clear, ready to bale the boat out if required.

      Before going alongside of a ship under weigh or hove to, observe if she has head or stern way.

      Never overload a boat, more particularly with men or sand; the former may be attended with loss of life, and it should always be remembered that sand is much lighter when dry than when wet.

      A boat fast to the swinging boom, or astern, may be kept clear of the ship by making a wash deck bucket fast overboard to her stern.

      If going up a river, where a bridge is too low to admit of your passing under, or any weight that cannot be moved, and it only requires a foot or some inches for the gunwale of the boat to clear, take the plug out, and sink her to the required distance.

      If in charge of a boat under sail, get your oars out directly the wind falls light; nothing denotes laziness so much as to see a boat drifting about under canvas waiting for a breeze.

      Always learn your boat's recall, which in well-regulated ships is painted on a board; also the general recall, secured in a safe place in the boat, sometimes on the back-board.

      If ordered to lay a warp out, coil enough of it forward in the boat to take two round turns and two half-hitches the instant your boat gets to the buoy or ship you are going to secure to.

      If you are going to lay a warp to windward or against a tide, coil the whole of the warp in the boat, pall to the place you are ordered to, make it fast, and drop down on the ship, paying out as the boat goes; this is called making a guess warp of it, as you have to well judge your distance to your ship, and in many cases, when you have paid the warp out too quickly you are unable to reach the ship, and another boat is obliged to bring a line to your assistance, which denotes a lubberly way of performing the duty intrusted to you.

      It should ever be borne, in mind by young and inexperienced seamen, that you cannot carry as much sail on a wind as you can running before it, therefore before rounding to, or hauling on a wind, great caution should be observed, and the sheets and halyards kept well in hand, ready to shorten sail at the shortest notice; the crew for this purpose ought to be properly stationed.

      Great care should be observed in running in a fresh breeze

dead before the wind; if taken by the lee you are nearly certain to capsize the boat if the sheets and halyards are not well in hand. When unable to lay your course by the wind coming on the sheet quarter, haul up a little, lower your sail and shift over, and resume your course.

      When in charge of a boat watering with casks, or taking in provisions, always, if possible, stow the midship casks with slings on, ready for hoisting out.

      Never take more in a boat than she will carry; great judgment is required, whether in loading a boat with luggage, provisions, or water, not to risk the safety of the boat or crew.

      If watering from the beach, keep the end of the suction hose in a tub, or a piece of rag round the brass strainer on the end of the suction hose, as the least thing drawn in, such as small gravel, will choke the valves and stop the work.

      If sent to take another boat in tow, pull well ahead clear of her oars without fouling her, and directly you have the end of her painter inboard and secured, give way; when well done it causes no delay; but should you pull alongside of lea, or get athwart-hawse, you considerably delay the work, and in many instances lose more ground than yon can possibly gain for some time again.

      In a cutter, or any large boat, if sent to weigh an anchor of any heavy thing over the stern, place the rope over the roller fitted to the taffrail, and ship the awning stanchion over it, which is fitted with two legs, so as to prevent the possibility of its slipping, flying over the quarters, and capsizing the boat; also take care to keep your crew well forward, to counter balance the weight brought on the stern.

      Paddle-box boats are stowed upon the tops of the paddle-boxes, and are most useful in embarking or disembarking troops, baggage, coating, or for provisioning and watering ship.

      Q. How are boats built?

      A. All cutters, gigs, and small boats are generally clinker, commonly called clinker-built boats.

      Launches, pinnaces, barges, and paddle-box boats, are either carvel or diagonally-built boats.

      Q. What is a clinker, or clinker-built boat?

      A. Where the lower end of one plank in the side of a boat overlaps the next plank below it.

      Q. What is a carvel-built boat?

      A. When the planks lie in a fore and aft direction flush with each other, the edges close together, and caulked to make them water tight.

      Q. What is a diagonally-built boat?

      A. A diagonally-built boat resembles a carvel-built boat, only the planks lie obliquely across the boat's timbers, instead of fore and aft.

      Q. What wood are boats built of?

      A. In the Navy they are built of elm or mahogany; light gigs are built of fir.

      Q. Name the purchases used for hoisting boats in and out?

      A. For a launch, a regular purchase is fitted, called the launches purchase, consisting of a runner and tackle at the yard-arms.

      Stay-tackles, fitted with a span between the fore and main mast, and the fore and main tackle to the lower pendants or preventers.

      Q. How do you secure the lower yards for hoisting a launch in or out?

      A. The top burtons are hooked to the lower cap and the lower yard-arms, to assist the lifts, taking care to have an equal strain on each; luffs are hooked as rolling tackles to the quarter strops on the lower yards, and to strops round the hounds of the lower masthead, to strengthen the yard in the bunt and assist the trusses.

      Q. What precaution – would you take before hoisting a launch, or any other heavy boat in?

      A. Pass all the movable gear out of her.

      Q. What purchase is used for hoisting a pinnace or barge in?

      A. Yard and stay-tackles.

      Q. In hoisting a boat in, in a sea way, when there is a motion, or a ship is rolling, what precaution ought to be taken?

      A. A luff-tackle should be hooked in a fore and aft direction, the fall led in on the forecastle, and steadied well taut, to keep her from serging; a sufficient number of men should be stationed in the boat, to keep her clear of the ship's side and sheet anchor.

      Q. Name the principal parts of a boat?

      A. Keel, keelson-board, stem, stem-board, sternpost, and board; rudder-irons, knees, timbers, thwarts, stern-sheets, head-sheets, gunwale, thole-pins or rowlock-holes.

Kynaston's Apparatus for Lowering Lifeboats.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      First hands up slip gripes: Each man on entering the boat will put his cork jacket on, and take his place on his respective thwart as quickly as possible.

      Stroke-Oarsmen see plug in, safety-pins out of after-hook, and attend after-lizard.

      Bowman. – Out safety-pins of foremost-hook, attend boat-rope, and see it ready for slipping, boat-hooks ready for use.

      Second thwart attend lizard.

      Coxswain. – Have whip clear for slipping, and ship "Tiller." The rest of boat's crew sit down and hold on to "Life-lines."

      At evening quarters pins are taken out, plugs put in, and the boat-ropes seen into the boat, and clear from forward.

      On getting into the boat each man should put his Life Belt on as quickly as possible, putting his right arm through shoulder-strap No. 1, and his left arm through shoulder-

Lifebelt.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

strap No. 2; dipping his head through the cross, No. 3, having the corks outside; bringing the strings round and tying them in front, which will cause the Belt to close,

      Figure 4 shows the Belt tied in front.

      Figure 5 shows it as it appears behind.

      The Life Belts supplied to Her Majesty's Ships weigh five pounds, have a, buoyancy of twenty pounds, and are capable of supporting one man.

      Launches are employed in all heavy work, such as laying out anchors if the ship is on shore, watering and provisioning ship. Barges are used for light work, embarking or disembarking any person of distinction; they are only supplied to flag ships.

      Pinnaces are also used for watering, provisioning, coaling, and many other purposes; in fact, they are looked upon as the working boats of the ship.

      Cutters are used for the general duty of the ship, such as answering signals, landing officers, &c., and are always lowered to pick a man up when overboard, and are sent with the larger boats to assist in towing.

      Jolly boats and dingies are used for the purpose of landing the stewards and servants when in harbour, or a short distance from the shore, for marketing, or for any other light work.

      Galleys are long gigs, pulling six or eight oars, set apart for the use of the Admiral or Captain. Gigs are also for the use of the Captain, and if a ship is supplied with more than one, it is used for landing Officers or conveying them to other ships, &c., &c.

Length, 30 ft.; breadth, 8 ft.; depth, 3 ft.
Capacity if used as a tank – 24 ft. by 7 ft. by 2 ft. 6 ins, = 420 cubic feet.
Weight of water, about 11 1/3 tons.
Draught of water, when light, about 6 ins.

      Q. What is a compass card?

      A. A circular card, by which a ship's course is denoted: it is divided into 32 equal parts, called points; again divided into 32 equal parts, called half-points; and again divided into 64 equal parts, called quarter-points, each point being distinguished by a letter or letters.

Compass Card.
[Click on image to enlarge.]

      A. N. S. E. and W. stand for North, South, East, and West; these are called the cardinal points; any two or three of these letters, added together, represent the intermediate points, as in the following example:

      Q. What is the opposite point. to N.E.?

      A. S. W.

With a very little attention to the question, the young beginner will be able to answer any opposite points most readily, always bearing in mind that the letter N. is opposite to S., and E, to W., and remembering that two or three of these letters added together represent all the points of the compass. For instance – E. N. E. is the opposite point to

W. S. W. | S. S. E. to N. N. W. | N.E. by E. to S. W. by W. | N.W. by N. to S.E. by S. | N.E. by N.? .N. | S. W. by S.? S. | W.? N. to E.? S. | N.? E. to S.? W., and so on, to any point of the compass.

The Compass Made Easy.
[Click on image to enlarge.]